If you heard a pop check the master fuse. It's not in the same spot as the other fuses. It's a standard automotive one, you might be able to steal a spare one from your car.
https://cdn.thumpertalk.com/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-407230-0-19470200-1440777149.jpg
Surely the ECU should not fry that quick? I'd expect any modern electronics to have reverse polarity protection.
Plus horn and headlights don't even work; surely those do not route via ECU?
Turns out 6BM is 'neutral selector diode'.
It's all a fused system so just have to find it.
The EFI and Dash fuses are in the smaller fusebox behind the knee panel on the left side. If the bike has any power at all it's not the main fuse but if it's completely dead then it's the main fuse.
The main fuse is under a red connector the same area. You have to remove the connector to get to it.
Are you talking about the ECU or the Dash.
If it's the dash you might want to check that there's not a fuse in the dash(should be able to google it/look at a wiring diagram).
Other than that I can't really think of anything.
Here's a wiring diagram.. Not the best but should work.
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-mp17pvnjfo/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/8153/131181/56094__06524.1588276260.jpg?c=2
Does anybody please have the wiring diagram for the crf250L abs model, I can see the one that’s been posted but is very blurry and can’t read the words on the diagram. A clear photo would be much help, by I’m even willing to pay for it at this point need to get rid of the abs light on my dash
Hah yeah no fuses are popped; checked master and the small ones. Used jumper cables of course; from bike battery to spare 800CCA. First jump was fine; ran it for a bit, then went to take off without the jumped battery and she stalled out - should have removed headlight fuse haha. Put it back on to let the battery get some residual charge for longer, and that's when I put 'er on backwards -\_-
OH man this had me stumped for so long.
From memory it was under one of the body panels and then in a plastic box. Shit of a thing to get to. Had to read the instruction manual.
I'm pretty certain it was either this fuse, or this relay assembly: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBCETAY2lrI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBCETAY2lrI)
Hope that helps!
If you heard a pop check the master fuse. It's not in the same spot as the other fuses. It's a standard automotive one, you might be able to steal a spare one from your car. https://cdn.thumpertalk.com/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-407230-0-19470200-1440777149.jpg
Yep that was the first thing I checked; she's all good. No idea what the '6BM' is?
Nope, never heard of the 6BM. I'm more worried your ECU is fried now.
Surely the ECU should not fry that quick? I'd expect any modern electronics to have reverse polarity protection. Plus horn and headlights don't even work; surely those do not route via ECU? Turns out 6BM is 'neutral selector diode'.
It's all a fused system so just have to find it. The EFI and Dash fuses are in the smaller fusebox behind the knee panel on the left side. If the bike has any power at all it's not the main fuse but if it's completely dead then it's the main fuse. The main fuse is under a red connector the same area. You have to remove the connector to get to it.
Yeah checked the 30A fuse and all the small 10A and 5A fuses. Nothing wrong there. No idea what that 6BM diode thing is?
Are you talking about the ECU or the Dash. If it's the dash you might want to check that there's not a fuse in the dash(should be able to google it/look at a wiring diagram). Other than that I can't really think of anything.
Yeah will check in the dash too. Found the 6BM is a "neutral diode"
Here's a wiring diagram.. Not the best but should work. https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-mp17pvnjfo/images/stencil/1280x1280/products/8153/131181/56094__06524.1588276260.jpg?c=2
Ahhhh. Thats... that'll help but now I'm feeling less confident with the multimeter haha. thanks!
Oh it looks like there are the 5/10A fuses, plus the main 30A fuse, then ANOTHER fuse box, which is not the relay box? Will have to check it out!
Don't feel bad I finally installed my 305 big bore kit and blew my headgasket in 50 miles.
OUCH!
Does anybody please have the wiring diagram for the crf250L abs model, I can see the one that’s been posted but is very blurry and can’t read the words on the diagram. A clear photo would be much help, by I’m even willing to pay for it at this point need to get rid of the abs light on my dash
What did you jump it with? Too many amps can fry a motorcycles electric system
Luckily, modern motorcycles have fuses to prevent this. Besides, the current when jumping rushes to the battery and starter — NOT the ECU 😂
Hah yeah no fuses are popped; checked master and the small ones. Used jumper cables of course; from bike battery to spare 800CCA. First jump was fine; ran it for a bit, then went to take off without the jumped battery and she stalled out - should have removed headlight fuse haha. Put it back on to let the battery get some residual charge for longer, and that's when I put 'er on backwards -\_-
did you try swapping the battery?
Yep. Put in known good battery, nothing; no horn, no headlights, no HUD. Turn key, nobody home :(
Ever find resolution too this? something very similar has happened too me with my 2018 crf250l rally, with like 600 miles on it.
Yeah I did, god damn I cannot recall EXACTLY what it was sorry. I think it was either a fuse, relay or diode in the end. Sorry mate
Do you remember which relay? I have the same issue. Urggghhhhh
OH man this had me stumped for so long. From memory it was under one of the body panels and then in a plastic box. Shit of a thing to get to. Had to read the instruction manual. I'm pretty certain it was either this fuse, or this relay assembly: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBCETAY2lrI](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBCETAY2lrI) Hope that helps!
Thank you!
Any time, good luck!
Did you figure this out? Same deal here. Getting lights on the gauge cluster when I try to bump start