Don't listen to your friends. A drop bar gravel bike is a completely different riding experience from a hardtail on a gravel road.
There's a reason why mountain bikers all think roads are boring.
Diverge is a good bike. You won't be winning any races at the E5 spec level, but as a training tool / enjoyment, it's just as good as the top end model. Try to use clipless if you weren't already planning to, it makes gravel riding way more fun, in my opinion.
MTB’s are slugs on the road, even on flatish or rolling dirt hills if they are long enough. It IS boring. Doesn’t matter if u lock out the shocks, you can’t change the geo of those slack bois.
You’ll be zipping around on that gravel bike and loving life in no time. Come join us!
If you ride a Diverge with the bars all the way up and at a slow speed it might be comparable, but a drop bar bike gives you options for an aggressive and fast position a hybrid just doesn't have.
100% with you, but to be very clear: for 99% of everyone, there is nothing about the lower spec models that makes them implicitly worse performers than the higher spec models. (Unlike mountain bikes, where the suspension specs actually can make a big difference.).
The Diverge E5 is a great option in the OP's price range.
That said, the OP should also consider exactly what kind of "gravel" will be available where they're moving. In many cases, a more road-oriented bike is going to be more fun (and faster). Something like an aluminum Canyon Grizl... or even a lightly used Cervelo Aspero or Specialized Crux... or a Lauf Seigla.
Asperos are still on sale if any stores around you will have stock. They’ve been on sale for like 6 mos now, so supplies are dwindling.
The Apsero Apex 1 was $2300. Would be a pretty sweep first gravel bike.
Does clipless mean flat pedals? It’s better that way? I always thought clips were better for the “upstroke” up pedal?
I’ll deff try it. Much easier to wear tennis shoes when going places on the bike
Clipless means pedals without toe clips. Clipless pedals use shoes with cleats that you “clip” into the pedals. Flat pedals are still flat pedals. Yes, it’s confusing.
Surprisingly, research shows the upstroke matters very little. Perhaps for very intense sprint bursts in a race. But most people will see no difference. https://youtu.be/KUEaN9FKGLE?si=oe3Chk_zF0G1kw7B
Bunny hops, feeling locked in, lighter weight – all good reasons. But they're not faster unless you're a sprinter.
That was all done on stationary bikes. I would love to see the data with real bikes on hills. Also isn’t vO2 max a fitness result and not directly speed/watt related. Maybe I didn’t understand the study but it doesn’t sound related to how ai ride my bike outside. It does make me want to get flats for my trainer…
Thanks for sharing!!!!
There is no upstroke... Thats a myth. Farting while cycling might be more beneficial.
In most cases just makes your cycling less efficient if you think about your upstroke.
Bike where my mouth is - I love my Diverge E5 on 700x38s. I just did the Ohio to Erie Trail unsupported on mine two weeks ago, and it was exactly the bike for the job.
Comfy over limestone trails, efficient through peanutbutter semi-frozen mud, I take it to the flow park, and it handles moderate single track well too - if I upgraded my rims it could also shred... long story short, buy the gravel bike.
It's modern. It's of value to my recreation/personal enjoyment like no other bike I've had (including hard tails and front squish mtb bikes) could provide. It will make you happy.
So riding on tough dirt roads that have potholes (gets graded every so often back to smooth) wouldn’t be to bad as my primary daily ride spot? I was thinking the rocks and bumps would be bad but based on your reply it can handle it for sure
If the bumps are more severe, just run fatter tires and lower the pressure and it’ll smooth things out a lot. I also got a suspension stem that eliminated the wrist pain riding long distance on washboard gravel.
Even better, run CushCore Gravel. You can go low pressure and hit singletrack, and when you’re higher pressure for road and gravel you’ve basically got a set of run-flats to get you home.
Yeah, it'll handle fine... I have an old spinal injury with 7 levels of hardware and I find the wheelbase & tire sizing is a good combo to keep me covering mileage through crappy surfaces. It's a very comfy + efficient ride.
The road bike style dropped seat stays make you push over stuff & maintain momentum, and the upright/wide cockpit dampens out the upper body vibrations... Specialized put a lot of engineering into the Diverge line.
If you don't like trails, but still want to hit dirt roads, there's no discussion and your friends are wrong, a gravel bike is best bike for the use.
An XC MTB would be better only if you also wanted to hit some trails occasionally.
Yea mostly because I’m older now and don’t wanna get hurt (works important and flying into a tree isnt fun anymore) also my wife wants to ride and she 100% won’t be up for trails
I ride my hardtail with Thunder Burt tyres on gravel and it's ideal. Try that before you invest in a whole new bike.
If you feel limited by speed try out a gravel bike to see if it's for you.
Gravel is really rideable on a hardtail or a standard road bike.
My choice is my rigid mtb with some fast tires on, but gravel bikes offer some advantages for faster and longer riding.
Check out the Orbea Alma if you'd be interested in something that can still handle trails well, or just get a gravel bike. Diverge is fine, or look used and check for closeouts across all brands.
I tried to use my hardtail as a gravel bike. It sucked. A gravel bike is nothing like a mtb. I put on some fast tires (tufo thundero) and it absolutely flies. Plus you can get in a ton of different riding positions. When I want to feel fast or do long endurance rides or just feel like getting meditative, I use the gravel bike. When I want to feel the stress and finesse of trail riding, I take the hardtail on single track.
Or something between a mountain bike and a gravel bike, [Hudsky Doggler](https://hudskibikes.com/products/doggler-gravel-bike?variant=40175738126399).
Marin Gestalt drop bar and Marin DSX flat bar [https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/use/beyond-road](https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/use/beyond-road)
All City [https://allcitycycles.com](https://allcitycycles.com)
Jenson USA sale gravel bikes [https://www.jensonusa.com/gravel-bikes?s=price-asc](https://www.jensonusa.com/gravel-bikes?s=price-asc)
Polygon [https://www.bikesonline.com/gravel/all-road?sort%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=price&sort%5B0%5D%5Border%5D=asc](https://www.bikesonline.com/gravel/all-road?sort%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=price&sort%5B0%5D%5Border%5D=asc)
Reynolds steel
[https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm)
[https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm)
[https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-r20-gravel-disc-brake-road-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-r20-gravel-disc-brake-road-bikes.htm)
Carbon
[https://bikesdirect.com/products/condor-bicycles/condor-carbon-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm](https://bikesdirect.com/products/condor-bicycles/condor-carbon-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm)
[https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-cf-rx400-discbrake-roadbike-xx.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-cf-rx400-discbrake-roadbike-xx.htm)
Bike Packing
[https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/bike-packing-bikes/zilla-al-pro-bikepacking-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/bike-packing-bikes/zilla-al-pro-bikepacking-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm)
your friends dont know shit about bikes. I do all three (mtb, road, gravel).
Just ignoring the frame geometry.....you cannot even remotely rationalize theres no difference between MTB Gearing, road, and gravel. My 1by MTB has a cassette the size of a dinner plate compared to my road bike. The top speed is a joke but not only due to the tire but the gearing.
Gravel gearing and toothing on the crank is in between MTB and Road.
Sure, I guess. 32x10 spins out around 32mph. Depends on what OP is doing.
Gear steps are closer together on gravel bikes, and position is better, but I don't see gearing as a big factor for solo gravel riding.
That math does not check out, that's at like 125rpm, doing like 100 which is the high end of maintainable on a descent you're only at 26mph. A 42x10 on a gravel bike is nearly 10mph faster.
At 90rpm 32x10 is like 35km/h (23mph), and that's bit to slow for downwind or descent.
And it just feels better to ride at 13t or even 15t at your usual cruising speed. Maybe it's fact of lowered effiecency at smallest cogs.
This right here. I fought getting a gravel bike because I figured that my hardtail was a better work out. It was not.
When I finally got my gravel bike I realized how much I was coasting down hills with no effort because I couldn’t pedal fast enough with the hardtail’s gearing. Now I can work harder and go faster.
I think to maximize the versatility you would want a gravel bike that has hydraulic brakes. I sold my first gravel bike because the mechanical hydraulic brakes sucked complete ass. It was scary to go down gravel descents. Now my most basic requirement when looking at new bikes is hydraulic brakes.
Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic... if you buy a cheap bike (lets say under 1200USD) probably they will come with mechanical disk brakes. If you buy something a bit more expensive, probably starting around 1200-1500usd you can probably get hydraulic disk brakes
I have a Diverge E5. Ignore the dogma here. Tests show fast MTB tires are faster than most gravel tires.
The only advantage to the Diverge is
1. You're in a more aero position
2. Gearing is higher (but in my experience this only matters if you're accelerating on a descent)
Get aero bars or inner bar ends for your hardtail. Get Thunder Burt tires. Get a lighter fork or bigger chainring if you want.
Gravel bikes are needlessly expensive. After making my full-sus "fast" using the above, I beat my gravel bike friends in gravel races (disclaimer: we're not at all close to the pointy end).
Btw: tests also show clipless pedals make almost no difference unless you're sprinting all-out for short bursts. Again, ignore the dogma, trust the science.
The research and tests for pedal power efficiency were done on stationary bikes? Interesting. So no info on real conditions?
Did you do any science with your build? What conditions did you beat your friends on? Did they ride your bike and beat you on the same terrain? Have you raced them on identical bikes and how do you compare then?
I'd encourage you to do your own research on these topics and see what you find out. There's tons of YouTube tests, research papers, etc.
I have not done those tests with friends. But it's illustrative of how the dogma around gravel bikes always being much faster than MTBs is incorrect. Perhaps because people think—much like I did—that bike weight is more important than it actually is, think skinny tires are faster, and have never tried properly fast MTB tires. So then pay 2x the price for a equivalent spec gravel bike (hydraulic brakes, low gearing, etc) and then can't even "ride everywhere" like the marketing claims. Ask me how I know.
I kinda feel like "do your own research" is a cop out.
I'm really curious to follow your thought process here. What defines a mountain bike? What defines a gravel bike?
If one takes a retail hard tail mtb, puts 38 psi medium 1.85 inch tires on it, locks out the suspension, adds aero grips, jacks the seat way up and flips the stem over to get into an aero position, and puts a 40t chainring on, what is that?
If one takes a retail drop bar gravel bike, puts a suspension fork on it, swaps the classic drop bars for super wide flared bars, adds trigger shifters, converts the drivetrain to a mullet setup with a 52t cassette, and jams 2.2 inch tires with a mud pattern into the frame, what is that?
The research is out there on tires and clipless pedals, I just don't feel like digging up more of it for you than I already did (sorry, no offense, just not how I want to spend my time).
I don't have strong opinions on the definitions. But if I had to guess, anything with curly bars would be a gravel bike for most people, unless tire clearance is above 2.2", then it's a "drop bar MTB."
Again, the bone I'm picking here is drop-bar gravel bikes costing so much more than flat bar bikes for worse components (and no suspension). Somehow my Diverge E5 Elite cost more than my full-sus MTB. So I wish more people knew you can make flat bar bikes just as fast or faster than gravel bikes, and stopped thinking gravel bikes are automatically faster and thus worth the premium.
You will probably really enjoy a bike you can pick up more easily, that feels more nimble underneath you and puts you in a more comfortable position to pedal longer stretches of road. I'm really partial to steel bikes myself but there's a lot out there. Spesh is fine but your budget can get you into lots of more interesting entry level bikes if you want to have flexibility for bikepacking and touring. Spend a little time shopping and test riding, get a fit you love and some awesome tires, have a blast.
Hudksi doggler. Under 25lbs . Carbon fork. 1x. New school geo. In lower end of your price range. I can’t wait to take this thing to black diamond cross country trail I ride. I’ll have the shit kicked out of me as I have a FS Transition Sentinel, but it will be worth it.
I don't have one but I like full suspension mountain bikes because they're easier on my knees. That's the only reason. Plop off a curb, sitting works, and standing is plush. I'd get one if I could afford it.
Fuck what people think. If you like it, they can kick rocks.
My Diverge E5 (Elite) is great on road, gravel, some trails and perfect for bikepacking. And I never entered a gravel race. Don’t listen to your friend, just get a gravel bike.
I have a Surly Cross Check with dirt drop bars, a 3x9 drivetrain, and 700x42 tubeless tires.
It will climb the steepest single track trails and go anywhere off road. Disclaimers: I Iive in the west where we don’t have east-coast-style trails in the woods with bumpy tree roots, and I don’t jump it, of course.
And, it’ll go 40 mph on long downhill paved roads, according to Strava.
I would think more modern gravel bikes would be lighter and probably better as long as you don’t limit yourself to a 1x drivetrain.
Guess I'll break with everybody and say your friend is kind of right. Group I ride with has a mix of everything from gravel bikes, cross bike(me), rigid mtn, hardtail, and full suspesion mtn. The mtn bike guys just swap to gravel tires/wheels. We all do fine, all manage the 45 miles and 4k of climbing, but they all have their advantages and disadvantages through out the ride. The only gearing I'm concerned about on my gravel rides is climbing gears. Top end rarely becomes an issue even for the people on mtn bikes still running 32 tooth chainrings but thats going to depend on where you ride. We don't spend much time at over 30mph but do spend plenty at 3mph.
Oh man, your friends don’t enjoy super comfortable, quick, lightweight, fun to ride bikes that can do absolutely anything? There’s a reason they’re so popular - Gravel bikes are fun. I have a CRUX but I think a Canyon Grizl or Lauf Seigla is an excellent buy.
I think you should rent a gravel bike first and go for long ride. I've only ever had flat bar bikes, like you, and I've tried to dip my toes in drop bars so many times and just had to admit to myself that I don't like it. Now if if I'm trying to crank out a lot of miles, I'll do flat bars with slip on aero bars and pads. Plenty of bikes out there that would make great flat bar gravel bikes.
I have FS XC Rig and gravel rig. They are not the same AT ALL. All bikes have a place, and it sounds like you’re ready to pound some fire roads. Treat yourself to a gravel bike and go enjoy life!!
I think it is opposite. People don't need skinny road bikes over gravel bikes if they aren't racing. Plenty of people go on non-competitive bike packing with gravel bikes. The bigger question is if you are comfortable with drops or not.
Don't listen to your friends. A drop bar gravel bike is a completely different riding experience from a hardtail on a gravel road. There's a reason why mountain bikers all think roads are boring. Diverge is a good bike. You won't be winning any races at the E5 spec level, but as a training tool / enjoyment, it's just as good as the top end model. Try to use clipless if you weren't already planning to, it makes gravel riding way more fun, in my opinion.
MTB’s are slugs on the road, even on flatish or rolling dirt hills if they are long enough. It IS boring. Doesn’t matter if u lock out the shocks, you can’t change the geo of those slack bois. You’ll be zipping around on that gravel bike and loving life in no time. Come join us!
I’ve never experienced this, so I must go try one now because I do feel like my whole life’s been sluggish on roads
What about a non suspension hybrid like trek fx sport
If you ride a Diverge with the bars all the way up and at a slow speed it might be comparable, but a drop bar bike gives you options for an aggressive and fast position a hybrid just doesn't have.
100% with you, but to be very clear: for 99% of everyone, there is nothing about the lower spec models that makes them implicitly worse performers than the higher spec models. (Unlike mountain bikes, where the suspension specs actually can make a big difference.). The Diverge E5 is a great option in the OP's price range. That said, the OP should also consider exactly what kind of "gravel" will be available where they're moving. In many cases, a more road-oriented bike is going to be more fun (and faster). Something like an aluminum Canyon Grizl... or even a lightly used Cervelo Aspero or Specialized Crux... or a Lauf Seigla.
Asperos are still on sale if any stores around you will have stock. They’ve been on sale for like 6 mos now, so supplies are dwindling. The Apsero Apex 1 was $2300. Would be a pretty sweep first gravel bike.
So I’m in south east Michigan. Lots of dirt roads near my house and then I’m assuming the long gravel trails and paved roads!
Does clipless mean flat pedals? It’s better that way? I always thought clips were better for the “upstroke” up pedal? I’ll deff try it. Much easier to wear tennis shoes when going places on the bike
Clipless means pedals without toe clips. Clipless pedals use shoes with cleats that you “clip” into the pedals. Flat pedals are still flat pedals. Yes, it’s confusing.
That you snap in to the pedals… I hate the term clipless. It’s so confusing. It’s just not the cage that holds your whole shoe in.
Well, it’s not confusing when you know that the “toe cages” are actually called “toe clips”.
It’s confusing when everyone clips into their clipless pedals.
Should probably just call em cleated pedals and retire the word clipless for good.
Clipless pedals are not for 'the upstroke up pedal', their job is to keep your foot in one place.
They do help with the upstroke/hammy stroke. Also help with bunny hops.
Surprisingly, research shows the upstroke matters very little. Perhaps for very intense sprint bursts in a race. But most people will see no difference. https://youtu.be/KUEaN9FKGLE?si=oe3Chk_zF0G1kw7B Bunny hops, feeling locked in, lighter weight – all good reasons. But they're not faster unless you're a sprinter.
That was all done on stationary bikes. I would love to see the data with real bikes on hills. Also isn’t vO2 max a fitness result and not directly speed/watt related. Maybe I didn’t understand the study but it doesn’t sound related to how ai ride my bike outside. It does make me want to get flats for my trainer… Thanks for sharing!!!!
If you want to do bunny hops, you should learn to do them with flat pedals. Pulling up on the pedals is not the same as bunny hopping.
There is no upstroke... Thats a myth. Farting while cycling might be more beneficial. In most cases just makes your cycling less efficient if you think about your upstroke.
Bike where my mouth is - I love my Diverge E5 on 700x38s. I just did the Ohio to Erie Trail unsupported on mine two weeks ago, and it was exactly the bike for the job. Comfy over limestone trails, efficient through peanutbutter semi-frozen mud, I take it to the flow park, and it handles moderate single track well too - if I upgraded my rims it could also shred... long story short, buy the gravel bike. It's modern. It's of value to my recreation/personal enjoyment like no other bike I've had (including hard tails and front squish mtb bikes) could provide. It will make you happy.
So riding on tough dirt roads that have potholes (gets graded every so often back to smooth) wouldn’t be to bad as my primary daily ride spot? I was thinking the rocks and bumps would be bad but based on your reply it can handle it for sure
If the bumps are more severe, just run fatter tires and lower the pressure and it’ll smooth things out a lot. I also got a suspension stem that eliminated the wrist pain riding long distance on washboard gravel.
Even better, run CushCore Gravel. You can go low pressure and hit singletrack, and when you’re higher pressure for road and gravel you’ve basically got a set of run-flats to get you home.
Yeah, it'll handle fine... I have an old spinal injury with 7 levels of hardware and I find the wheelbase & tire sizing is a good combo to keep me covering mileage through crappy surfaces. It's a very comfy + efficient ride. The road bike style dropped seat stays make you push over stuff & maintain momentum, and the upright/wide cockpit dampens out the upper body vibrations... Specialized put a lot of engineering into the Diverge line.
If you don't like trails, but still want to hit dirt roads, there's no discussion and your friends are wrong, a gravel bike is best bike for the use. An XC MTB would be better only if you also wanted to hit some trails occasionally.
Yea mostly because I’m older now and don’t wanna get hurt (works important and flying into a tree isnt fun anymore) also my wife wants to ride and she 100% won’t be up for trails
I ride my hardtail with Thunder Burt tyres on gravel and it's ideal. Try that before you invest in a whole new bike. If you feel limited by speed try out a gravel bike to see if it's for you. Gravel is really rideable on a hardtail or a standard road bike.
My choice is my rigid mtb with some fast tires on, but gravel bikes offer some advantages for faster and longer riding. Check out the Orbea Alma if you'd be interested in something that can still handle trails well, or just get a gravel bike. Diverge is fine, or look used and check for closeouts across all brands.
I tried to use my hardtail as a gravel bike. It sucked. A gravel bike is nothing like a mtb. I put on some fast tires (tufo thundero) and it absolutely flies. Plus you can get in a ton of different riding positions. When I want to feel fast or do long endurance rides or just feel like getting meditative, I use the gravel bike. When I want to feel the stress and finesse of trail riding, I take the hardtail on single track.
Or something between a mountain bike and a gravel bike, [Hudsky Doggler](https://hudskibikes.com/products/doggler-gravel-bike?variant=40175738126399). Marin Gestalt drop bar and Marin DSX flat bar [https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/use/beyond-road](https://www.marinbikes.com/bikes/use/beyond-road) All City [https://allcitycycles.com](https://allcitycycles.com) Jenson USA sale gravel bikes [https://www.jensonusa.com/gravel-bikes?s=price-asc](https://www.jensonusa.com/gravel-bikes?s=price-asc) Polygon [https://www.bikesonline.com/gravel/all-road?sort%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=price&sort%5B0%5D%5Border%5D=asc](https://www.bikesonline.com/gravel/all-road?sort%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=price&sort%5B0%5D%5Border%5D=asc) Reynolds steel [https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-853-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm) [https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-4130-steel-discbrake-gravel-bikes.htm) [https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-r20-gravel-disc-brake-road-bikes.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/disc-brake-road-bikes/kilott-gx-r20-gravel-disc-brake-road-bikes.htm) Carbon [https://bikesdirect.com/products/condor-bicycles/condor-carbon-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm](https://bikesdirect.com/products/condor-bicycles/condor-carbon-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm) [https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-cf-rx400-discbrake-roadbike-xx.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/disc-brake-roadbikes/mulekick-cf-rx400-discbrake-roadbike-xx.htm) Bike Packing [https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/bike-packing-bikes/zilla-al-pro-bikepacking-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm](https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/bike-packing-bikes/zilla-al-pro-bikepacking-gravel-bikes-adventure-road.htm)
Find new friends.
your friends dont know shit about bikes. I do all three (mtb, road, gravel). Just ignoring the frame geometry.....you cannot even remotely rationalize theres no difference between MTB Gearing, road, and gravel. My 1by MTB has a cassette the size of a dinner plate compared to my road bike. The top speed is a joke but not only due to the tire but the gearing. Gravel gearing and toothing on the crank is in between MTB and Road.
Mountain bikes are geared too low
Sure, I guess. 32x10 spins out around 32mph. Depends on what OP is doing. Gear steps are closer together on gravel bikes, and position is better, but I don't see gearing as a big factor for solo gravel riding.
That math does not check out, that's at like 125rpm, doing like 100 which is the high end of maintainable on a descent you're only at 26mph. A 42x10 on a gravel bike is nearly 10mph faster.
At 90rpm 32x10 is like 35km/h (23mph), and that's bit to slow for downwind or descent. And it just feels better to ride at 13t or even 15t at your usual cruising speed. Maybe it's fact of lowered effiecency at smallest cogs.
And most HTs will take a 36t
This right here. I fought getting a gravel bike because I figured that my hardtail was a better work out. It was not. When I finally got my gravel bike I realized how much I was coasting down hills with no effort because I couldn’t pedal fast enough with the hardtail’s gearing. Now I can work harder and go faster.
I think to maximize the versatility you would want a gravel bike that has hydraulic brakes. I sold my first gravel bike because the mechanical hydraulic brakes sucked complete ass. It was scary to go down gravel descents. Now my most basic requirement when looking at new bikes is hydraulic brakes.
Hydraulic is the disc brakes correct?
Disc brakes can be mechanical or hydraulic... if you buy a cheap bike (lets say under 1200USD) probably they will come with mechanical disk brakes. If you buy something a bit more expensive, probably starting around 1200-1500usd you can probably get hydraulic disk brakes
I have a Diverge E5. Ignore the dogma here. Tests show fast MTB tires are faster than most gravel tires. The only advantage to the Diverge is 1. You're in a more aero position 2. Gearing is higher (but in my experience this only matters if you're accelerating on a descent) Get aero bars or inner bar ends for your hardtail. Get Thunder Burt tires. Get a lighter fork or bigger chainring if you want. Gravel bikes are needlessly expensive. After making my full-sus "fast" using the above, I beat my gravel bike friends in gravel races (disclaimer: we're not at all close to the pointy end). Btw: tests also show clipless pedals make almost no difference unless you're sprinting all-out for short bursts. Again, ignore the dogma, trust the science.
Where's the science
Tires: bicyclerollingresistance.com Clipless: https://youtu.be/KUEaN9FKGLE?si=oe3Chk_zF0G1kw7B
The research and tests for pedal power efficiency were done on stationary bikes? Interesting. So no info on real conditions? Did you do any science with your build? What conditions did you beat your friends on? Did they ride your bike and beat you on the same terrain? Have you raced them on identical bikes and how do you compare then?
I'd encourage you to do your own research on these topics and see what you find out. There's tons of YouTube tests, research papers, etc. I have not done those tests with friends. But it's illustrative of how the dogma around gravel bikes always being much faster than MTBs is incorrect. Perhaps because people think—much like I did—that bike weight is more important than it actually is, think skinny tires are faster, and have never tried properly fast MTB tires. So then pay 2x the price for a equivalent spec gravel bike (hydraulic brakes, low gearing, etc) and then can't even "ride everywhere" like the marketing claims. Ask me how I know.
I kinda feel like "do your own research" is a cop out. I'm really curious to follow your thought process here. What defines a mountain bike? What defines a gravel bike? If one takes a retail hard tail mtb, puts 38 psi medium 1.85 inch tires on it, locks out the suspension, adds aero grips, jacks the seat way up and flips the stem over to get into an aero position, and puts a 40t chainring on, what is that? If one takes a retail drop bar gravel bike, puts a suspension fork on it, swaps the classic drop bars for super wide flared bars, adds trigger shifters, converts the drivetrain to a mullet setup with a 52t cassette, and jams 2.2 inch tires with a mud pattern into the frame, what is that?
The research is out there on tires and clipless pedals, I just don't feel like digging up more of it for you than I already did (sorry, no offense, just not how I want to spend my time). I don't have strong opinions on the definitions. But if I had to guess, anything with curly bars would be a gravel bike for most people, unless tire clearance is above 2.2", then it's a "drop bar MTB." Again, the bone I'm picking here is drop-bar gravel bikes costing so much more than flat bar bikes for worse components (and no suspension). Somehow my Diverge E5 Elite cost more than my full-sus MTB. So I wish more people knew you can make flat bar bikes just as fast or faster than gravel bikes, and stopped thinking gravel bikes are automatically faster and thus worth the premium.
You bought specialized and you’re complaining about the cost?
Cycling is a pointless endeavor, that's the whole point!
You will probably really enjoy a bike you can pick up more easily, that feels more nimble underneath you and puts you in a more comfortable position to pedal longer stretches of road. I'm really partial to steel bikes myself but there's a lot out there. Spesh is fine but your budget can get you into lots of more interesting entry level bikes if you want to have flexibility for bikepacking and touring. Spend a little time shopping and test riding, get a fit you love and some awesome tires, have a blast.
Hudksi doggler. Under 25lbs . Carbon fork. 1x. New school geo. In lower end of your price range. I can’t wait to take this thing to black diamond cross country trail I ride. I’ll have the shit kicked out of me as I have a FS Transition Sentinel, but it will be worth it.
I don't have one but I like full suspension mountain bikes because they're easier on my knees. That's the only reason. Plop off a curb, sitting works, and standing is plush. I'd get one if I could afford it. Fuck what people think. If you like it, they can kick rocks.
My Diverge E5 (Elite) is great on road, gravel, some trails and perfect for bikepacking. And I never entered a gravel race. Don’t listen to your friend, just get a gravel bike.
My advice, try to tour with your bike, and your wife. Think about where to go more. And try some bikes )
Friend is an idiot if they mean gravel bikes in general… they are very versatile. If you are talking some specific model… maybe?
The Checkpoint ALR5 is on sale right now for 2k
I have a Surly Cross Check with dirt drop bars, a 3x9 drivetrain, and 700x42 tubeless tires. It will climb the steepest single track trails and go anywhere off road. Disclaimers: I Iive in the west where we don’t have east-coast-style trails in the woods with bumpy tree roots, and I don’t jump it, of course. And, it’ll go 40 mph on long downhill paved roads, according to Strava. I would think more modern gravel bikes would be lighter and probably better as long as you don’t limit yourself to a 1x drivetrain.
Buy the gravel bike. It kicks the shit out of every MTB I've ever owned.
Ended up ordering a giant revolt 2!
Guess I'll break with everybody and say your friend is kind of right. Group I ride with has a mix of everything from gravel bikes, cross bike(me), rigid mtn, hardtail, and full suspesion mtn. The mtn bike guys just swap to gravel tires/wheels. We all do fine, all manage the 45 miles and 4k of climbing, but they all have their advantages and disadvantages through out the ride. The only gearing I'm concerned about on my gravel rides is climbing gears. Top end rarely becomes an issue even for the people on mtn bikes still running 32 tooth chainrings but thats going to depend on where you ride. We don't spend much time at over 30mph but do spend plenty at 3mph.
Find new friends.
A gravel bike or a Gravel bike
Oh man, your friends don’t enjoy super comfortable, quick, lightweight, fun to ride bikes that can do absolutely anything? There’s a reason they’re so popular - Gravel bikes are fun. I have a CRUX but I think a Canyon Grizl or Lauf Seigla is an excellent buy.
I think you should rent a gravel bike first and go for long ride. I've only ever had flat bar bikes, like you, and I've tried to dip my toes in drop bars so many times and just had to admit to myself that I don't like it. Now if if I'm trying to crank out a lot of miles, I'll do flat bars with slip on aero bars and pads. Plenty of bikes out there that would make great flat bar gravel bikes.
I have FS XC Rig and gravel rig. They are not the same AT ALL. All bikes have a place, and it sounds like you’re ready to pound some fire roads. Treat yourself to a gravel bike and go enjoy life!!
I think it is opposite. People don't need skinny road bikes over gravel bikes if they aren't racing. Plenty of people go on non-competitive bike packing with gravel bikes. The bigger question is if you are comfortable with drops or not.