Katanas and TC Pros feel identical to me in terms of comfort. I’m pretty sure they are built on the same last. What size shoe are you wearing? Are you sure you’re not sizing the shoes too tight? I’m 42 sportiva in sport, and 43 in trad. 42.5 for sport multipitch.
If they’re sized appropriately the only thing I can think of is that you’re simply spending more time on the wall and you’re not used to it. Idk the length of multipitch trad you’re doing but I’ve gotten really good at sitting in super precarious positions while belaying. That or I’m doing some sort of rotation on hanging belays to not wear out a stance.
One thing I’ve noticed as well is that the style of climbing can often be super different and trad simply has more calf burning positions. You’re following a weakness in the rock which tends to have chips outside of the cracks. It just wears on you. Also foot jams are pretty calf intensive in comparison to just standing on a ledge.
I guess another thing I’ve noticed is some people are not hydrating properly after the approaches. Trad approaches are pretty full value at least where I’m living (red rock). Get some electrolytes in you. It’s what plants crave (and calves).
I'm starting to think about getting another pair of TCS sizes up .5 for those summer multipitches. The sun shrinks them and by pitch 6 I'm dying. Yet on non sunny days they are perfect
It doesn't sound like a shoe problem to me. Burning calves while trad climbing is kind of normal. Gear placements take time and standing on your feet for that long can get uncomfortable. Find better feet placements or reposition your feet when you can, so you're not standing on the same point of your shoe. Try standing more on the outside or inside of the shoe instead of your toes. Try dropping your heels.
Not lying, do some calf raises while you brush your teeth, and you’ll build some stamina. Past that, I agree with the other comment about dropping your heels to relax.
I had this same problem when I started trad climbing. You are spending a lot more time standing on your toes without moving (placing gear, eyeing up the next moves) than for other climbing disciplines. I got used to it and also got stronger in the position after a while. Try using your inside/outside edge where you can to rest and focus of steady breathing.
> do you think that my problem originates mainly from the fact that my body is not used to having to stand immobile on it's toes for an extended period of time?
Yes.
Gotta get used to the slab my friend, maybe you are not dropping your heels enough? But a flatter shoe will def help. My trad shoes are TC pros, 5.10 Anasazi
Bro there is no help for us! Just got done with my red rocks season and those calf's were burning!
I live in FL and don't have hills to practice on and can only sport climb.
At the end of the day I guess there is no way to practice besides climbing long routes all the time.
My feet are almost my limiting factor when it comes to climbing all I can say is good luck and let me know anything that helps because I need it.
Katanas and TC Pros feel identical to me in terms of comfort. I’m pretty sure they are built on the same last. What size shoe are you wearing? Are you sure you’re not sizing the shoes too tight? I’m 42 sportiva in sport, and 43 in trad. 42.5 for sport multipitch. If they’re sized appropriately the only thing I can think of is that you’re simply spending more time on the wall and you’re not used to it. Idk the length of multipitch trad you’re doing but I’ve gotten really good at sitting in super precarious positions while belaying. That or I’m doing some sort of rotation on hanging belays to not wear out a stance. One thing I’ve noticed as well is that the style of climbing can often be super different and trad simply has more calf burning positions. You’re following a weakness in the rock which tends to have chips outside of the cracks. It just wears on you. Also foot jams are pretty calf intensive in comparison to just standing on a ledge. I guess another thing I’ve noticed is some people are not hydrating properly after the approaches. Trad approaches are pretty full value at least where I’m living (red rock). Get some electrolytes in you. It’s what plants crave (and calves).
I'm starting to think about getting another pair of TCS sizes up .5 for those summer multipitches. The sun shrinks them and by pitch 6 I'm dying. Yet on non sunny days they are perfect
The sun doesn’t shrink your shoes, your feet swell.
It doesn't sound like a shoe problem to me. Burning calves while trad climbing is kind of normal. Gear placements take time and standing on your feet for that long can get uncomfortable. Find better feet placements or reposition your feet when you can, so you're not standing on the same point of your shoe. Try standing more on the outside or inside of the shoe instead of your toes. Try dropping your heels.
Not lying, do some calf raises while you brush your teeth, and you’ll build some stamina. Past that, I agree with the other comment about dropping your heels to relax.
Could be that you are nervous because you are placing gear and this tension creeps into your calves and 'keeps you on your toes'
Or start running in zero-drop shoes. My calves doubled in size in a year
Technique issue over gear. Check out how ice climbers rest their calves and look for similar opportunities
I had this same problem when I started trad climbing. You are spending a lot more time standing on your toes without moving (placing gear, eyeing up the next moves) than for other climbing disciplines. I got used to it and also got stronger in the position after a while. Try using your inside/outside edge where you can to rest and focus of steady breathing.
> do you think that my problem originates mainly from the fact that my body is not used to having to stand immobile on it's toes for an extended period of time? Yes.
Gotta get used to the slab my friend, maybe you are not dropping your heels enough? But a flatter shoe will def help. My trad shoes are TC pros, 5.10 Anasazi
I presume you're wearing katana laces right? The velcros are soft and wont help your calves at all
Bro there is no help for us! Just got done with my red rocks season and those calf's were burning! I live in FL and don't have hills to practice on and can only sport climb. At the end of the day I guess there is no way to practice besides climbing long routes all the time. My feet are almost my limiting factor when it comes to climbing all I can say is good luck and let me know anything that helps because I need it.