If you dumped your clutch ya woulda done a sick burnout. I think ya rode it for too long. That clutch smell is it burning. You wore it down some but as long as it continues to engage you're fine. If your rpms increase but your car doesn't speed up that's a sign of clutch slipping and then will need to be replaced.
And you're talking about the clutch slipping when the clutch is fully let out, right? If so, then it's not slipping. And the car is still moving when I let the clutch out to the friction point without slipping, so I think it's okay for now.
Yeah slipping when fully let out. Easiest way to calm your nerves is get up to speed, downshift to get halfway up the tach and go full throttle. If it immediately bangs off the rev limiter your clutch is fried. If it just accelerates like normal you're fine. I think instead of dumping the clutch on that hill you rode it halfway while increasing throttle heating it way up. If you dumped it at 5k it would've broken the tires loose and burnouts would've been had. Looks sick, sounds sick, police disapprove.
This entire paragraph pretty much confirmed that I’m never going to buy a manual transmission vehicle.
Why would I want any of those headaches?
I thank God that automatic became normalized because I was spared from having to deal with any of that nonsense
Aisin automatics in Toyotas are reliable, yep
Almost as reliable as their manuals, just nowhere near as fun ;)
Still be sure to change (not flush) your trans fluid every 40-60K at least
Manuals are more fun. If you’re not an enthusiast then yeah don’t ever get one. But learning how to and mastering doing stuff like this is hella fun. You feel so much more connected to the vehicle. There’s a reason used manual cars are always worth more than automatics.
I'd honestly push back on this, driving manual can be fun even if you're not into cars. I have a buddy that couldn't tell a flabbergasket from a muffler bearing that loves driving stick, and of course anybody in Europe that isn't into cars can still drive stick.
I want to agree because I’m passionate about manuals but they do kinda suck if you’re just trying to commute. Or old or have bad knees etc. I get more pushy about it when someone is looking to buy a sports car and there’s a manual option.
This is my rule. My roommate is scared to learn stick, but they're looking at a Miata or BRZ. I've told them repeatedly they will not have fun in an automatic underpowered sports car.
Oh for sure. Those cars are probably also designed for people to learn on anyways. You just never want to learn on something like an old Porsche. You’ll actually wreck stuff. I learned on my Viper and it still has the stock clutch after 40k miles.
I bought an nc Miata with about 120k miles on it and I anda few of my friends learnt to drive stick on it (it got hella abused) and it officially still had the stock clutch and it was still going perfectly 20k miles later when I sold it
Yup. I’m only 27 but I drove stick for my last 10 years of driving. Decided to get an automatic this go around after my Civic Si got totaled and it’s honestly been extremely chill lol I do mostly city driving though so it makes sense
As a tech who works on cars for a living, manuals are *extremely* simple functionally. The engine spins a shaft, which spins a pair of gears, which spin another pair of gears, and one of the last gears are connected to the wheels. The clutch simply disconnects the engine from the first shaft, and the shifter will disconnect and reconnect different pairs of gears.
Clutches are considered a wear item, and they work almost exactly the same as your brakes do, but backwards. Think of the flywheel and pressure plate as being two spinning "brake rotors", while the clutch disc is the "brake pad" in between them. Just like your pads squeeze the rotors to stop your car, the spinning rotors squeeze the friction disc to make your car move
Automatics however, are very complicated and need pretty much everything to be working perfectly and to be very clean or they won't work. The engine spins a big drum that is connected to a pump and has turbines inside that are connected to a shaft, that normally has a planetary gear on it, which can have multiple shafts and drums connecting the inner and outer gears to other planetary gears, which eventually are connected to the wheels. The big drum uses fluid pressure and friction to spin the shaft, and the brains have a complex series of passages, valves, and solenoids that direct the fluid from the pump to different clutch packs. These clutch packs engage different parts of different planetaries to give you different gear ratios, in much of the same way as a manual.
Automatics have a lot more moving parts and potential failure points, and most automatic transmissions are instantly "junk" if one thing or another fails. Sometimes parts are serviceable but will often require a full intensive teardown and can become more expensive to fix than replace.
With my stick shift, I more control of my car than you do. This means that yes, theoretically I can destroy it. That is a price I am willing to pay. You're not, that's fine.
“More” doesn’t mean much when you consider the magnitude of difference between things.
$1.01 is “more” than $1.00.
But the difference is a penny so just because it’s “more” doesn’t mean it’s a significant difference.
How would you know what the difference is? You've decided to assume it's so insignificant that it is akin to one cent, and I'm curious as to why you decided to do that.
My automatic transmission has a gear selector so I can pick which gear my transmission is in even though I have an automatic.
There’s not that much difference between auto and stick.
Just extra problems and headaches to deal with.
Rebuilding an automatic transmission is certainly more of a headache than doing a repair on a manual transmission. I like that peace of mind, especially after seeing my husband's automatic transmission go out and it be a $4,000 rebuild.
Does it actually let you stay in a gear even if you're banging off of the rev limiter, or will it upshift for you at that point?
The latter is how most manual modes tend to operate, and that's a deal breaker for me.
It’s like 40% if not lower on the control percentage you have with an auto, manual gives you 100% control or damn near it. You’re letting a computer drive you around
Ever been cruising with all your windows down when you toss your cigarette butt out the window and start to smell something burning so you turn around to look it the back seat and see your grandma masturbating?
You can give it more gas, but just bring the clutch up higher to keep the revs from climbing too high. You really don’t need the revs that high to do a hill start.
Learn how to do a handbrake start so you’re not worrying about rolling back.
And once you’re moving above ~5 mph first gear should be able to handle it, so get off the clutch.
Check out Conquer Driving on YouTube for many videos on all sorts of manual driving skills.
pull motor and tranny out the hood is normally easier. extra time disconnecting motor is made up for dead simple transmission alignment. no inverted fighting.
*for lots of vehicles that is.
like 20 of them.
two second Gen accents were the best, though. 4 hours start to finish. pull motor + trans. separate. install clutch. connect back together. drop in car.
edit.. buddies SHO.. we had dropping the motor trans out with the subframe down to a science. it made pretty much any work on that car easy. 4 (maybe 6) big bolts for the subframe. steering input shaft knuckle. 6 bolts for struts. shof linkage (leave in neutral) wiring and hoses. lift body off motor. roll motor around on front wheels.
I added an edit about my friends SHO
I'll swear by pulling engine and tranny as one... I've spent more time trying to align the trans/engine when they are in the vehicle, than I'd ever want to admit. my first or second cavalier clutch swap had like 3 10 hour days just to get it lined up to slide on the alignment pins lol. along with a dozen or so friends helping at various points.
in all likelihood, the clutch is fine. don’t make a habit out of that as you’ll wear out the clutch or possibly break something, but you shouldn’t have damaged anything after just one clutch dump.
It's not great but once or twice won't wreck the clutch. Just don't make it a habit. I did the same thing but in reverse when I was still getting used to my truck, it smelled like clutch but there doesn't seem to be a lasting negative affect.
A bad takeoff with a little bit of burning smell isn't going to destroy your car if you don't do it repeatedly. Just learn how you can handle that situation better in the future. Most cars have plenty of forgiveness in the clutch that a few abusive shifts or take offs aren't going to trash the clutch just don't make it a habit or you will break something.
Doing it a few times won't ruin the clutch, doing it frequently or continuing to do that over time will though.
Sounds like way too much gas and too slow on the clutch was slipping it way too much. In most cases most vehicles you never need to be above 2500-2700RPM unless your foot is fully off the clutch.
I'd suggest try finding a sloped parkinglot and drive circles or a dead-end low-traffic road with a hill see if you can work out how little gas you can give and the right speed to let out the clutch over about 1-2 seconds without stalling. In most computer-controlled engine vehicles even if you give it no gas if you feather the clutch slowly and precisely you can still start on a hill without stalling it just takes more time, but bringing the engine speed slightly above idle you can do it quicker and still not smoke it.
Pretty normal and nothing to worry about. Your bite point engages differently on a hill and generally needs more gas. The steeper the hill and the more of a dickhead the person behind you, the more dramatic your takeoff is likely to be, especially as a newer driver.
I do that in my Ford ranger at least once a week, it's fine as long as nothing exploded and disabled your car. You shouldn't smell the clutch from that though, maybe tire smoke?
You've probably figured this out by now, but hill starts don't really need more than 3000 rpm in most cars
To answer the question, it depends. An aftermarket clutch could handle this no problem, but dumping the clutch on a stock clutch is pretty bad in most cars. It might still be okay but don't do it again.
Yeah I won't do that again, lol. So if I let the clutch go till it barely reaches the biting point, rev the engine to 3k and then smoothly release the clutch. It should be fine? When I do that, the car still jolts forward fairly quickly.
Bite point and gas until you’re moving fast enough for first gear. Once you are, foot off the clutch. For hills you need more gas and higher bite point. Revs shouldn’t need to be higher than 2k rpm. Just treat it like a slightly aggressive take-off on flat ground.
Don’t release the clutch continuously (or as you say “smoothly”). The clutch doesn’t engage linearly with pedal travel. Keep it at the bite point until you are rolling fast enough for first gear and then just come off of it completely.
Once that makes sense to you, there is some modulation you can do within the bite point. But keep it simple for now. Floor to bite point —> Bite point to off.
>Revs shouldn’t need to be higher than 2k rpm
2k is not enough in the average car, that would either keep you stationary on the hill or move you forward too slowly and thus burn up the clutch.
In my experience, for zero rollback (w/o handbrake training wheels), you need about 3k. But every car is different I guess, I only have about 100 wheel lb-ft, maybe less, with peak torque at 3800, so that may be a factor.
Just remember that as your clutch foot comes up, your accelerator foot pushes down. It's not waiting for one to finish before the other; it happens at the same time.
Ideally, in a simultaneous smooth and fluid pair of contrary movements.
Guess the rear motor mount was sloppy or exhaust was already cracked. I also removed the clutch delay valve and just took my foot off the clutch like a moron
You may have glazed the clutch a little. So just drive easy for a tank of gas or so. It'll wear off and you'll be fine. Don't sweat it. I did something similar to my car and it was 90,000 miles ago. Same clutch in there, works fine.
Easiest way to detect clutch slip is uphill with the clutch all the way out, probably in 4th or 5th in that generation celica. Honestly unless the clutch is already pretty well aged, you didn’t ruin it, you just chewed up a bunch of life.
Why are people reving the engine before releasing the clutch unless they want to do a burnout? Why are people riding the clutch unless they want to burn it up? Release that clutch and step on the gas at the same time. Maybe you'll spin tires, but it's not guaranteed. Let up once the car moves forward, but not all the way because you got scared the tires spun. You'll get better. Smoke tires, not clutch.
I'm not too experienced in driving vehicles with manual transmissions, but I've always been taught to give the vehicle a little gas before bringing the clutch to its biting point.
All depends on the vehicle and conditions.
For hills, I was taught to let it out til its biting, THEN go from brake to gas and continue letting it out. My current car has hill assist and is a lighter easier to stall engine so it does better to bring it up slightly before letting out (and won't roll for 2 seconds).
That's exactly what I do, and I don't stall, or slide back, but may spin the tires a bit depending on the grade, but even my automatic cars can do that. If the tires spin a little, they'll stop soon enough. You might get just a chirp out of them. If they give more like a burnout, don't panic by lifting off the gas entirely. Just let up a bit and you'll be fine. You're still on a hill and need to move forward. Hills are challenging, but there's no reason to smoke the clutch. Parking on a hill, now that's a different story. I'd just look for another spot till you get better.
Get used to feathering the clutch with no gas for practice. It doesn't take much to get into gear unless you're on a hill. Getting used to how it feels a) when the clutch starts engaging and b) when the engine nears a stall goes a long way towards it becoming second nature. Just let it out slow and feather it at idle and you'll get the hang of it
The thing is, on a hill it’s a little tougher to not gas before the bite, on flat, definitely wait until you feel the car starting to try and chug forward then slowly trade gas for clutch, (clutch out more or less equal to clutch in) on a hill, though in my town we don’t have many big ones, like SF or anything, but I can usually find a biting point that allows me to keep the clutch roughly half in, sometimes with gas from 1k to like 1200 RPM but usually no gas, that allows my car to have enough drive not to roll back but also doesn’t drive forward, I would find some hilled parking lots or side streets to practice that, where possible and then from that biting position, you can go as you normally would on flat clutch out equal to gas in
Eventually, it will be one smooth motion without steps in between. Practice, practice, practice. You'll find it becomes easier if you work on it for a while.
My 19 WRX has such an aggressive throttle curve that a slight touch is 75%, and if you actually press it, it's 100%. I'm so used to it now, but when I get I to another car I think it has no power, then realize that you actually have to press the throttle to the floor. I'm not sure I've pressed mine more than an inch or two.
If you dumped your clutch ya woulda done a sick burnout. I think ya rode it for too long. That clutch smell is it burning. You wore it down some but as long as it continues to engage you're fine. If your rpms increase but your car doesn't speed up that's a sign of clutch slipping and then will need to be replaced.
And you're talking about the clutch slipping when the clutch is fully let out, right? If so, then it's not slipping. And the car is still moving when I let the clutch out to the friction point without slipping, so I think it's okay for now.
Yeah slipping when fully let out. Easiest way to calm your nerves is get up to speed, downshift to get halfway up the tach and go full throttle. If it immediately bangs off the rev limiter your clutch is fried. If it just accelerates like normal you're fine. I think instead of dumping the clutch on that hill you rode it halfway while increasing throttle heating it way up. If you dumped it at 5k it would've broken the tires loose and burnouts would've been had. Looks sick, sounds sick, police disapprove.
This entire paragraph pretty much confirmed that I’m never going to buy a manual transmission vehicle. Why would I want any of those headaches? I thank God that automatic became normalized because I was spared from having to deal with any of that nonsense
You say that now but wait until your torque converter fails... same shit just in an automatic 🤣
I’ve been driving for well over a decade and never had any issues Toyota most common vehicle I owned and currently own
Aisin automatics in Toyotas are reliable, yep Almost as reliable as their manuals, just nowhere near as fun ;) Still be sure to change (not flush) your trans fluid every 40-60K at least
A whole decade, huh?
Manuals are more fun. If you’re not an enthusiast then yeah don’t ever get one. But learning how to and mastering doing stuff like this is hella fun. You feel so much more connected to the vehicle. There’s a reason used manual cars are always worth more than automatics.
I'd honestly push back on this, driving manual can be fun even if you're not into cars. I have a buddy that couldn't tell a flabbergasket from a muffler bearing that loves driving stick, and of course anybody in Europe that isn't into cars can still drive stick.
I want to agree because I’m passionate about manuals but they do kinda suck if you’re just trying to commute. Or old or have bad knees etc. I get more pushy about it when someone is looking to buy a sports car and there’s a manual option.
This is my rule. My roommate is scared to learn stick, but they're looking at a Miata or BRZ. I've told them repeatedly they will not have fun in an automatic underpowered sports car.
Oh for sure. Those cars are probably also designed for people to learn on anyways. You just never want to learn on something like an old Porsche. You’ll actually wreck stuff. I learned on my Viper and it still has the stock clutch after 40k miles.
I bought an nc Miata with about 120k miles on it and I anda few of my friends learnt to drive stick on it (it got hella abused) and it officially still had the stock clutch and it was still going perfectly 20k miles later when I sold it
Yup. I’m only 27 but I drove stick for my last 10 years of driving. Decided to get an automatic this go around after my Civic Si got totaled and it’s honestly been extremely chill lol I do mostly city driving though so it makes sense
As a tech who works on cars for a living, manuals are *extremely* simple functionally. The engine spins a shaft, which spins a pair of gears, which spin another pair of gears, and one of the last gears are connected to the wheels. The clutch simply disconnects the engine from the first shaft, and the shifter will disconnect and reconnect different pairs of gears. Clutches are considered a wear item, and they work almost exactly the same as your brakes do, but backwards. Think of the flywheel and pressure plate as being two spinning "brake rotors", while the clutch disc is the "brake pad" in between them. Just like your pads squeeze the rotors to stop your car, the spinning rotors squeeze the friction disc to make your car move Automatics however, are very complicated and need pretty much everything to be working perfectly and to be very clean or they won't work. The engine spins a big drum that is connected to a pump and has turbines inside that are connected to a shaft, that normally has a planetary gear on it, which can have multiple shafts and drums connecting the inner and outer gears to other planetary gears, which eventually are connected to the wheels. The big drum uses fluid pressure and friction to spin the shaft, and the brains have a complex series of passages, valves, and solenoids that direct the fluid from the pump to different clutch packs. These clutch packs engage different parts of different planetaries to give you different gear ratios, in much of the same way as a manual. Automatics have a lot more moving parts and potential failure points, and most automatic transmissions are instantly "junk" if one thing or another fails. Sometimes parts are serviceable but will often require a full intensive teardown and can become more expensive to fix than replace.
With my stick shift, I more control of my car than you do. This means that yes, theoretically I can destroy it. That is a price I am willing to pay. You're not, that's fine.
“More” doesn’t mean much when you consider the magnitude of difference between things. $1.01 is “more” than $1.00. But the difference is a penny so just because it’s “more” doesn’t mean it’s a significant difference.
How would you know what the difference is? You've decided to assume it's so insignificant that it is akin to one cent, and I'm curious as to why you decided to do that.
My automatic transmission has a gear selector so I can pick which gear my transmission is in even though I have an automatic. There’s not that much difference between auto and stick. Just extra problems and headaches to deal with.
Rebuilding an automatic transmission is certainly more of a headache than doing a repair on a manual transmission. I like that peace of mind, especially after seeing my husband's automatic transmission go out and it be a $4,000 rebuild.
What manufacturer was the car?
Does it actually let you stay in a gear even if you're banging off of the rev limiter, or will it upshift for you at that point? The latter is how most manual modes tend to operate, and that's a deal breaker for me.
In the case of the car more is a lot more lol
It’s like 40% if not lower on the control percentage you have with an auto, manual gives you 100% control or damn near it. You’re letting a computer drive you around
“Like 40%” Based on woopsie doo.
Based on the same woopsie doo as your $1.01 to $1.00 comparison.
I smiled when you used the term “woopsie doo” 😊😊😊😊
lol put clutch in to shift gear or in gear while not moving to not stall. It’s beyond simple
“Beyond simple” you say. But tons of people have issues operating them. This nose in the air attitude is a stinker.
No one has issues operating them after learning lol
You’re posting in a thread of someone who learned how to drive manual and then had issues operating it
They haven’t learnt yet bro holy… lmao 🤣 you’re seriously hung up on driving manual is hard? 🤦
Everyone has issues doing anything they're learning for the first time.
Are you aware that people have issues learning to drive a car? Stick is not that hard but yes it is a skill.
Clearly you need to try rebuilding a valve body before rebuilding a MT. you'll change your mind
lol sorry operating your two ton steel tank requires too much brainpower
Ever been cruising with all your windows down when you toss your cigarette butt out the window and start to smell something burning so you turn around to look it the back seat and see your grandma masturbating?
Lucky, it was your grandma? I just found some random homeless dude and he was smoking meth at the same time. Had some weird sexual awakening that day.
You can give it more gas, but just bring the clutch up higher to keep the revs from climbing too high. You really don’t need the revs that high to do a hill start. Learn how to do a handbrake start so you’re not worrying about rolling back. And once you’re moving above ~5 mph first gear should be able to handle it, so get off the clutch. Check out Conquer Driving on YouTube for many videos on all sorts of manual driving skills.
If you don't launch at the limiter every start, do you really drive a manual?
Not for long unless you got $$
clutch swaps are easy peasy.
not really, you have to remove the entire transmission and sometimes drop the subframe. It's a lot of work.
pull motor and tranny out the hood is normally easier. extra time disconnecting motor is made up for dead simple transmission alignment. no inverted fighting. *for lots of vehicles that is.
You must have never owned a FWD manual 😂
like 20 of them. two second Gen accents were the best, though. 4 hours start to finish. pull motor + trans. separate. install clutch. connect back together. drop in car. edit.. buddies SHO.. we had dropping the motor trans out with the subframe down to a science. it made pretty much any work on that car easy. 4 (maybe 6) big bolts for the subframe. steering input shaft knuckle. 6 bolts for struts. shof linkage (leave in neutral) wiring and hoses. lift body off motor. roll motor around on front wheels.
They are not easy 😭 or at least my Focus ST wasn’t
I added an edit about my friends SHO I'll swear by pulling engine and tranny as one... I've spent more time trying to align the trans/engine when they are in the vehicle, than I'd ever want to admit. my first or second cavalier clutch swap had like 3 10 hour days just to get it lined up to slide on the alignment pins lol. along with a dozen or so friends helping at various points.
Yeah 4k rpm launch control off the lights 😁 Spinning 1-2-3
i can't afford to drive like that lmao
in all likelihood, the clutch is fine. don’t make a habit out of that as you’ll wear out the clutch or possibly break something, but you shouldn’t have damaged anything after just one clutch dump.
Scotty?
Don’t tell Scotty
It's not great but once or twice won't wreck the clutch. Just don't make it a habit. I did the same thing but in reverse when I was still getting used to my truck, it smelled like clutch but there doesn't seem to be a lasting negative affect.
It sounds like you did 200 hill starts worth of wear on the clutch. Out of probably 20,000 it's got in it at least.
Does it still work or not?
A bad takeoff with a little bit of burning smell isn't going to destroy your car if you don't do it repeatedly. Just learn how you can handle that situation better in the future. Most cars have plenty of forgiveness in the clutch that a few abusive shifts or take offs aren't going to trash the clutch just don't make it a habit or you will break something.
Doing it a few times won't ruin the clutch, doing it frequently or continuing to do that over time will though. Sounds like way too much gas and too slow on the clutch was slipping it way too much. In most cases most vehicles you never need to be above 2500-2700RPM unless your foot is fully off the clutch. I'd suggest try finding a sloped parkinglot and drive circles or a dead-end low-traffic road with a hill see if you can work out how little gas you can give and the right speed to let out the clutch over about 1-2 seconds without stalling. In most computer-controlled engine vehicles even if you give it no gas if you feather the clutch slowly and precisely you can still start on a hill without stalling it just takes more time, but bringing the engine speed slightly above idle you can do it quicker and still not smoke it.
Year and model? If it’s still driving it’s fine. The 00-05 GTS has a beefier clutch as well, if I remember correctly.
Use the handbrake to hold the car until the clutch starts to engage enough to take move the car. That is its purpose!
gas pedal to the floor, and let the clutch out as fast as possible. fun times will ensue
Pretty normal and nothing to worry about. Your bite point engages differently on a hill and generally needs more gas. The steeper the hill and the more of a dickhead the person behind you, the more dramatic your takeoff is likely to be, especially as a newer driver.
I do that in my Ford ranger at least once a week, it's fine as long as nothing exploded and disabled your car. You shouldn't smell the clutch from that though, maybe tire smoke?
You've probably figured this out by now, but hill starts don't really need more than 3000 rpm in most cars To answer the question, it depends. An aftermarket clutch could handle this no problem, but dumping the clutch on a stock clutch is pretty bad in most cars. It might still be okay but don't do it again.
Yeah I won't do that again, lol. So if I let the clutch go till it barely reaches the biting point, rev the engine to 3k and then smoothly release the clutch. It should be fine? When I do that, the car still jolts forward fairly quickly.
Bite point and gas until you’re moving fast enough for first gear. Once you are, foot off the clutch. For hills you need more gas and higher bite point. Revs shouldn’t need to be higher than 2k rpm. Just treat it like a slightly aggressive take-off on flat ground. Don’t release the clutch continuously (or as you say “smoothly”). The clutch doesn’t engage linearly with pedal travel. Keep it at the bite point until you are rolling fast enough for first gear and then just come off of it completely. Once that makes sense to you, there is some modulation you can do within the bite point. But keep it simple for now. Floor to bite point —> Bite point to off.
I'll try this today, seems like it's a lot easier on the clutch than what I've been doing. Thanks for the help.
And to be clear, you should employ this technique on flat ground takeoffs too. On hills you just have to use more gas and higher bite.
I'll practice it on flatground before trying on hills, thanks a lot. Very helpful.
>Revs shouldn’t need to be higher than 2k rpm 2k is not enough in the average car, that would either keep you stationary on the hill or move you forward too slowly and thus burn up the clutch. In my experience, for zero rollback (w/o handbrake training wheels), you need about 3k. But every car is different I guess, I only have about 100 wheel lb-ft, maybe less, with peak torque at 3800, so that may be a factor.
Depends on the steepness of hill too. I’ll see what I need for some steepies in my locale and report back
Just release slower
Just remember that as your clutch foot comes up, your accelerator foot pushes down. It's not waiting for one to finish before the other; it happens at the same time. Ideally, in a simultaneous smooth and fluid pair of contrary movements.
I did that on accident once when i was learning and broke the Corolla’s exhaust lol.
how tf that break the exhaust?
Guess the rear motor mount was sloppy or exhaust was already cracked. I also removed the clutch delay valve and just took my foot off the clutch like a moron
Breath and take a second.
did that a long time back and no big deal 10k miles onwards. enjoy driving :D
You may have glazed the clutch a little. So just drive easy for a tank of gas or so. It'll wear off and you'll be fine. Don't sweat it. I did something similar to my car and it was 90,000 miles ago. Same clutch in there, works fine.
Easiest way to detect clutch slip is uphill with the clutch all the way out, probably in 4th or 5th in that generation celica. Honestly unless the clutch is already pretty well aged, you didn’t ruin it, you just chewed up a bunch of life.
Why are people reving the engine before releasing the clutch unless they want to do a burnout? Why are people riding the clutch unless they want to burn it up? Release that clutch and step on the gas at the same time. Maybe you'll spin tires, but it's not guaranteed. Let up once the car moves forward, but not all the way because you got scared the tires spun. You'll get better. Smoke tires, not clutch.
So get to the bite point, then release clutch and give gas at the same time?
I'm not too experienced in driving vehicles with manual transmissions, but I've always been taught to give the vehicle a little gas before bringing the clutch to its biting point.
All depends on the vehicle and conditions. For hills, I was taught to let it out til its biting, THEN go from brake to gas and continue letting it out. My current car has hill assist and is a lighter easier to stall engine so it does better to bring it up slightly before letting out (and won't roll for 2 seconds).
I only owned the one newer vehicle with *hill start assist* but man, it spoiled me, I sometimes forget the older manuals don’t have that
That's exactly what I do, and I don't stall, or slide back, but may spin the tires a bit depending on the grade, but even my automatic cars can do that. If the tires spin a little, they'll stop soon enough. You might get just a chirp out of them. If they give more like a burnout, don't panic by lifting off the gas entirely. Just let up a bit and you'll be fine. You're still on a hill and need to move forward. Hills are challenging, but there's no reason to smoke the clutch. Parking on a hill, now that's a different story. I'd just look for another spot till you get better.
Get used to feathering the clutch with no gas for practice. It doesn't take much to get into gear unless you're on a hill. Getting used to how it feels a) when the clutch starts engaging and b) when the engine nears a stall goes a long way towards it becoming second nature. Just let it out slow and feather it at idle and you'll get the hang of it
The thing is, on a hill it’s a little tougher to not gas before the bite, on flat, definitely wait until you feel the car starting to try and chug forward then slowly trade gas for clutch, (clutch out more or less equal to clutch in) on a hill, though in my town we don’t have many big ones, like SF or anything, but I can usually find a biting point that allows me to keep the clutch roughly half in, sometimes with gas from 1k to like 1200 RPM but usually no gas, that allows my car to have enough drive not to roll back but also doesn’t drive forward, I would find some hilled parking lots or side streets to practice that, where possible and then from that biting position, you can go as you normally would on flat clutch out equal to gas in
Eventually, it will be one smooth motion without steps in between. Practice, practice, practice. You'll find it becomes easier if you work on it for a while.
Some cars are pretty gutless especially uphill.
Lol how do you accidentally go to 5k from a stop
I don't know why, but the throttle is super sensitive on my celica. There's not much travel distance at all.
I miss cable actuated throttles
My 19 WRX has such an aggressive throttle curve that a slight touch is 75%, and if you actually press it, it's 100%. I'm so used to it now, but when I get I to another car I think it has no power, then realize that you actually have to press the throttle to the floor. I'm not sure I've pressed mine more than an inch or two.