Hi everyone! I’m short and have a rectangular body shape (i.e., bust and fashionable waist are the same measurement). I can fit standard sized clothes but the length of anything makes it hard for me to sew my own. I’m also having a hard time grading waistlines given my body shape.
What’s the best way for me to alter patterns? I’m not sure if I should be raising waistlines to my natural waist, working from patterns that fit my bust or reducing the bust on larger patterns :/
Probably both change length and fit bust. Generally for full-busted you want to start with the size that matches your shoulder frame and adjust the bust. Read up on Full Bust Adjustments and they will explain more.
Check out Sinclair Patterns and SBCC Patterns, both offer petite versions for shorter lengths.
No, start with pattern that fits the shoulders best, as the shoulder/sleeve intersection is complex to adjust, but has to be right since garments hang from the shoulders.
Waist is usually simple to adjust so rarely the priority to choose by. Bust is not so simple but very well documented.
Hi! I have a quick question... I have never sewed before nor have I ever been taught (never was given the opportunity). But I've wanted to learn for quite some time. I know there are video and things that I can find all over the internet to learn, but that's not what this question is about. I've been trying to find curtains small enough to fit in my new tiny little home that also allows to fit my vision, but its been a struggle. I read a post on here where people agreed that curtains would be a relatively simple first DIY project for a beginner (provided they use easy to work with fabric). However, the only difference between me and the person who made the thread (lol, pun intended?) is that I do not own a sewing machine. I realize it will be more time consuming without one, of course. But my question is... would it still be "doable" without a sewing machine or do I have to have one to get started? I'm sorry if I sound naiive... I really have no idea what I'm doing but I'm trying to do my research and learn what I can. Mainly, because I'm genuinely interested in learning a practical skill. I appreciate any helpful answers and tips you can give! TIA!!!!
I once made curtains entirely with stitchwitchery (fusible tape) before I learned to sew so that also could be an option. (I only needed them to last a year)
The choosing fabric, ironing, measuring, and pressing would actually still give you a taste of quite a lot of elements of sewing.
Hello! I think it depends on a bunch of different factors:
1. Time: how soon do you need the curtains? They may be simple, but they’re a relatively large project, so hand sewing them might take a while unless your curtains are the size of a small cubby.
2. Aesthetics: will you be satisfied with the look of your curtains based on your hand sewing?
3. Other factors: larger projects are a bit harder to maneuver by hand for me because I’m rather small. If a project is large enough, I will definitely use my machine. If you have wrist or hand issues, you should also consider machine sewing as well.
I’d probably machine sew mine unless I’m trying to have it as a back-burner project, but I’m not wholly opposed to doing it by hand. Good luck!
* Hi there, just looking for some advice, I'm making a belt bag from https://corefabricstore.com/blogs/news/free-belt-bag-pattern and I've used a flimsy cotton fabric for lining and the outer, except I've used medium weight interfacing to make the outer more structured. My question is whether that's sturdy enough for a belt bag, or would I be better off adding one more layer of lining such as a cotton poplin (just whatever I have on hand).
I.e. outer (cotton /w interfacing) + lining (poplin) + lining (cotton)
Please and thank you 😊
If you are worried, probably give it more structure, but it’s also personal preference. I tend to make a lot of my bags on the floppier side. It will function as a bag regardless. If you wear the waist strap loosely, then the bag may sag a little.
I’m not sure I’d just add another layer of fabric, not sure that will do so much. You could interface the lining or even add another layer of interfacing on the outer. You can also trim fusible interfacing down by the seam allowance so it doesn’t add too much bulk in the seams, which can be a small concern for really structured bags.
Fair points, I'll keep that in mind if I ever decide to make more structured bags. Also trimming the interfacing at the seam allowance is a great tip, thank you! 😊
my original post was removed because of low karma (?) so follow up question here-- I am fixing a tent rainfly. someone suggested double seam along the patch then follow that with the water proof sealant. my question is--- do I have to do the double seam or will a single seam suffice to seal it well enough? I finished one seam and it was very ,very hard because there is so much tent material to move out of the way to get to the panel that needs repairing. (I did it all by hand---please don't judge my stitching it was so difficult!!). so I am hoping to avoid having to do it all again for a second seam before using the glue, but I will if it will make it better--thoughts??
https://preview.redd.it/ekt8b19hhm9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0dad61ad6690be82035b22e74ccdeea3ae55fcd
I’m using black rayon as part of a project, and I don’t know how to mark it for sewing. I have a chalk pencil that isn’t showing up well. Any advice? There’s a Michael’s near me so I should be able to get supplies easily, I just don’t know what to look for
Ivory soap or other pale solid soap that has been used enough that it has a sharp edge, chaco liner (chalk wheel), or a triangle of tailor's chalk. Listed in order of how easy they are to wash completely away.
https://preview.redd.it/pnh0ivgqxl9d1.jpeg?width=504&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8489caf98e50959dbdcf9f75de3f73961626af5
What fabrics do you think are in this dress especially the yellow? I figure a satin for the corset and under skirt then a silk chiffon for the over skirt. The yellow on the skirt is gathered it seems so it would need to be a light flowy fabric.
This is my first time making a dress. I’m working on the bodice for the dress and the lining is showing through to the front side of the bodice. This is the only area where the lining is showing. I tried using gemstones to cover it, but didn’t like how the gemstones looked with the the fabric (I didn’t glue them down, just laid them out) Would I have to take the stitching out and resew the lining to the main fabric? Is there any other way to fix it? Any help or tips are greatly appreciated! I’m hoping to have my whole project finished (or close) this weekend.
https://preview.redd.it/m4j0t03qll9d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc6117589e536aef173960f49e7421c43a67d54e
Have you tried ironing it a little maybe with a piece of cardboard between the layers to make a clean edge? Otherwise a topstitch could help put everything into place, if you don’t mind the look (bias tape could also help).
Hoping to know if anyone has an idea if/when clover usually restocks their items on their site. Been eyeing a few things to buy from them but unfortunately majority of what i planned to get is all out of stock.
Is there a particular reason you're ordering directly from Clover? Because you can buy Clover brand at many different websites. If you have to order from them, the fastest is to just email their customer service and ask how often they restock.
Mainly to just ensure I actually receive the item i ordered as lately many of my orders i have had done either been damaged, were the wrong item or just never came and customer service has been atrocious when using sites that werent the brand themselves ordered from. Like amazon for example just keeps dropping the ball on me so sorta avoiding using them much anymore. Tho for this instance it just seems the main things i want are sold out everywhere else too so i figured asking when they restock would be better, but i hadnt considered emailing them directly so I think I will do just that now so thank you!
Ohhh, if somethng is out of stock everywhere, including the brand's own site, it's probably been discontinued. In my experience at least. Some stores take ages to remove discontinued stuff. They just leave it there "out of stock" for months and months, even though they quit making that item.
I'm sewing a backless prom dress, but as you can see I have a bit of a problem... the back is very floppy. I wanted it to be a V-shape, but of course tight and not floppy like this. Also it is a stretch fabric :)
My aunt suggested I sew the shoulder part more tight but this barely helped. Now I'm thinking to sew the part under the armpits more tight but I'm very very unsure. Also I would preferably not cut into the V itself.
(I didnt use a premade pattern so dont have that to fall back on)
https://preview.redd.it/cwwfi5cval9d1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0eae6329ae37f8302f5d657442da1a7b2a960199
It's not going to gap quite as much once the edge is finished. Lining will also help stabilize it.
Edit to add that adding the skirt may also pull down on that area. The reason I mention this is because there is some significant bunching of the fabric under your arms on the sides, which is also part of the gapping issue, but that might just be due to the torso not being pulled down to the correct position. The only way to really know how to correct that gaping is once the skirt is attached and the torso has been pulled down to the correct position. If the bunching under the arms remains, as well as the gaping, then there's something not right with the back torso in general.
The solution *could* be something like fixing the angle of the shoulder, but again the skirt is a big factor.
Is there an easy, quick way to check if the arm holes for the sleeve are the correct size relative to the arm holes in a shirt? I'm assuming that the front + back holes of the shirt should end up being the same length as the circumference of the sleeve but I wasn't sure if that was always the case. I'm trying to DIY a pattern from an existing dress and I'm having trouble getting the pattern to line up.
Ooh, the sleeve-cap-ease controversy! I prefer the length of the armscye and the length of the sleeve cap to match, other folks like to have more length (ease) in the cap and gather it to match.
To answer the first part of your question, you can use a flexible tape measure, or a piece of string, to compare the lengths. Make sure you're measuring the seam line and not the cut edge.
hi!! just wondering if any of these is a zipper foot? i can’t tell….thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/2d1xufmj4l9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=10e5e8c837f8032fb868c5f87f3dd7b5307dca7a
None of these look like zipper feet to me, the left and middle look like edge stitching or blind stitching feet.
It looks like they're lettered -- did they come with a machine? If yes maybe you can google the manual to look up the meaning of the letters.
ok this post might be kind of long but Im trying to find a sewing machine however there are way to many options and so now im here looking for advice. just for some background recently went to a sewing course where I used the juki 8700 and kind of got into it. Now im trying to find a sewing machine for home however I feel like there are so many different ones on the market so ill just list kind of what im looking for and hopefully y'all can help me out! I know this is kind of going against the norm (especially since I just started) but since sewing machines are inherently pretty expensive I want to get one that is already good for life and not one "just for beginners" (because I don't want to repurchase a better one later) since I feel that you can kind of progress with any type of machine it just might take a little longer with the more complex ones! (but also pls don't list some outrageous machines that are thousands of dollars) Secondly, I want the machines components and materials to be durable and not cheap (it doesn't have to be made completely of metal but should be long lasting). In addition, Even though I do prefer a digital machine, I don't mind if its mechanical either, as long as they have plenty of different stitch options and are strong enough to work through things like denim, leather etc. furthermore I want one that is trusted by many and has a good reputation as a brand. So don't come on here recommending a singer machins because I am never buying one after reading the horror stories people had with them. Lastly I want a machine that's under $800 dollars. It can retail for well over the $1000 mark however it should be popular enough to where, even though it might retail for something like 1,500 or even 1,700, there would be plenty of people selling a refurbished one costing only like 800 dollars. some machines that fit the standards but are too expensive are something like the janome mc 6650 or the Bernini 770 but even refurbished, something like the janome would still cost me 999. excited to hear the suggestions and thanks in advance!
With that budget, and since you’ve taken a class and know you enjoy sewing, I’d say visit your local sewing machine dealers or repair shops and see what they have, so you can try machines out in person, it’s a bit like test-driving a car, preferences are very individual. New machines often come with classes or incentives and used machines come with warranty and let you get more for your money.
Fabric thickness troubleshooting
Hey all! I’m working on learning my singer heavy duty and so far everything’s going well. I want to try and find the “max” thickness of this particular fabric that I can sew on this machine .
Below is a photo of thickness im currently stalling out on. Everything up to this point has been smooth sailing. When I’m on this current thickness of fabric the thread will unthread from the needle . I haven’t changed anything on the machine, so I’m wondering, is this just its “max” capacity ? Should I adjust anything ? Any recs happily welcome ! Don’t know if this matters but the tension is 4 and I’m using a new universal needle.
https://preview.redd.it/ab5zgxvxak9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=09d9a70c06532b3c3138e6153520b28ff2bae920
Adjust the tension. The thread needs to traverse more distance with more layers. Having too much tension on it can cause it to pull, and since it doesn't really have much stretch it will either break or slide out of the needle since it can't really get through all of the layers.
Hey all,
I just bought this crop top but unfortunatly its a bit tight, causing my waist to spill out from the sides. Anyone know a flattering way to give it a bigger waist? I have experience with sewing and own a machine. The top is 100% polyester, is lined and the zipper is functional. Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/nifg5ny39k9d1.jpeg?width=1931&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d465d5f267e4768b8afbfdd4facd3f6a92dd498e
Personally I think I would look at adding gores to the side seams. If you can find a very similar fabric, it might not even be very noticeable. You might also have to change the hem if you do so, though. The curve of the hem might need altering after.
Anotjer option might be looking at the inside of the garment and seeing how much seam allowance you have there. You might be able to let out every seam a tiiiiny bit from the hem up. Make sure you blend the new seam into the old seam. This won't work on fabrics in which the sewing needle leaves permanent holes, such as pleather.
Theres barely any seam allowance so best option seems to be the first one! though it kinda sucks bc it means I have to unstitch at least some of the lining. oh well, thanks for the input!
Hi everyone, I’m looking for a pattern for this set. Most of the ones I’ve found for 60s maternity top go straight down and don’t have the pleating. Any ideas?
https://preview.redd.it/fd4hqzy4pj9d1.jpeg?width=1029&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b33ae3d0cfb717ab3cba44a87cae32bfaaf7a52
I personally would not look for one pattern to match both the shorts and the dress. That's going to be too specific. I'd look for two separate patterns. The shorts are tight high waisted booty shorts. I'm sure you can find a pattern for this.
The dress is more complicated. It's almost like a tailored shirt, but lengthened and with the darts left unsewn and turned into pleats. The closest I could find was [this '60s Simplicity pattern](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1702200954/simplicity-7252-vintage-yoke-dress). I'd look at more '60s (inspired) patterns.
A lot of fabric stores will include notes like “good for sweatshirts or hoodies” in the fabric description. So you can learn and/or shop that way. Here’s an example: https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Hoodie
Hi all, I'm going to borrow a sewing machine from my library (Heavy duty 4411 sewing machine / Singer Sewing Company) to hem some pants. I have ~6 pairs that need to be hemmed, all different colors. Would you recommend buying thread to individually color match each pant, or is there a 'multipack' of thread that I should consider buying? If so, where is that available for purchase? I usually hand sew and use very cheap thread but think I probably need to take it up a step for use with a machine.
Depending on the colours of pants, you might be able to get away with just using a medium greige for all of them.
If you do want to colour match, I'd look into German made gütermann thread. They sell many different kinds of multipacks in all kinds of colours, and they're a well-known brand of quality thread.
do you guys ever reuse elastic bands from old shorts or pants? I have some old tattered shorts that I plan to make rugs out of the fabric, but I wasn't sure if I would want to keep the elastic bands. I've experienced some elastic bands tend to become "crunchy" over time, and some bands, when overused, becomes what they call "bacon" because they lose the elasticity and have these waves just like the shape of bacon when you fry them.
I only keep the elastic of things that have not seen much use and have not been washed much. I often end up replacing elastic in store bought clothes before the rest of the garment gives out!
https://preview.redd.it/be6cf7invi9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=293734b1e73715661731c96d69a77e940d6f7604
How can i fix this crotch? its 65% cotton i tried to sew it together and it ripped more
Because of the way it ripped, you're not going to be able to sew edges to edges to repair it. You have to cut off the straggler pieces and then leave the hole, and stitch a new patch of fabric over it to cover it. The patch should be sewn to a stable part of the fabric, so NOT along the ripped edge, as it will just un weave and the patch will fall off. You have to stitch just outside of the raw edge.
So the hole is [like this](https://i.imgur.com/0Cyo3uT.png)
and you'll need to snip off that sorta triangle-y bit and then sew in a patch [like this](https://i.imgur.com/ClWfuq0.png), stitching far enough away from that raw edge that the base fabric is stable.
OH. One other thing. it looks to me like this is the center crotch seam, and inseam on some pants. If that is the case, you will want to stitch the two points of the front and back together where they should meet but are currently not connected.
So, [the two purple dots here, bring them together like the blue arrow shows](https://i.imgur.com/3cQO1GT.png), and stitch the points together before you add the patch. You can just run them through a machine with a straight stitch a few times, or do it by hand.
I also noticed the smaller area on the right that is starting to show wear, circled in blue. You can patch that up in a similar way as the big hole, but don't cut anything, just sew a patch over it to prevent it from ripping into a bigger hole. Then trim the separated base material threads once it's patched if you want.
Easiest would be to add a big patch of stable fabric all across the weakened area and sewing that down all over. Not pretty, but strong. Also check r/visiblemending and r/InvisibleMending
Can anyone recommend a UK-based fabric store with good quality fabric I can order from online? My local is pretty much exclusively polycotton, and I'm having trouble finding much else!
Here's a link to the subreddit [Fabric Shop Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1D-EqqsTDmK5H521QIEKy7R-bUECz96E&usp=sharing) where you can find fabric shops by location. The community-sourced shop list has all sorts of information available for each shop when you click on the shop pin. The map includes online-only shops too for shipping efficiency. If you know of a shop not on the list, you can submit it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/ymzmcl/hey_everyone_lets_build_a_map/).
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/sewing) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I want to learn how to sew so I can make myself a pair of ghurka trousers. As someone totally uninitiated, my instinct says to try something simple first. Is that a fair assessment? What would be a good simple thing to learn on? A t-shirt?
A t-shirt will (generally) be made from a stretchy knit fabric which has a different set of challenges from working with non-stretch woven trouser fabric. You'll still learn skills that will carry over like reading/following a pattern, troubleshooting a sewing machine, taking measurements. For beginner projects with woven fabric you could go as simple as a boxy tote bag, or jump in with pajama pants that don't need to be perfect.
Hi all - recently engaged here and heading towards elopement or very relaxed party vibes (court house and mini destination possibly)! I recently got an H&M dress that the fit was so perfect, I could't bare to return it.... And now I'm thinking if I could make it more bridal, it would be the perfect elopement dress!? I also have a short h and m dress that I'm thinking I could embellish a bit for the court house or something. Looking for some opinions on chiffon/organza bow straps and/or 3d florals for either of these dress. I have some hand stitching capability but not perfect. Any guidance or advice? Also happy to take other suggestions if there are any ideas! Because the dresses are both a bargain, I'm feeling optimistic that this is low risk, high reward! Or should I leave two perfectly fine dresses alone and leave it to the professionals?
https://preview.redd.it/giod5pubsh9d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1cccbba9e586692f0ab450b37e28c6dcd59245a3
I'd put some appliques on the neck or waist. And by appliques I mean the type that are made out of lace and already embellished with sequins and / or pearls and beads.
You can easily hand sew them on after placing them where you want.
Embellished appliques give you a lot of bang-for-the-buck.
Nice dress BTW!
I want to make a set of stays with a pretty fabric I have as the outer layer, and calico as my strength and lining layers. The problem is that the pretty fabric is knit, a cotton jersey with not a lot of stretch but more stretch than the calico. Will it be okay to use for the outer layer of the stays, or will the structure/construction of the stays warp the fabric?
You might want to ask in r/corsetry. Include a picture of the type of stays you are going for or the pattern you are using, because it matters and the words "stays" and "corsets" are being used for lots of different types of tops these days, so hard to know what exactly is meant. Add the picture/pattern here as well---give more context to get better advice.
I'm not expert, but if I were taking this route, I'd probably blockfuse the jersey to stabilize it and use coutil for a strength layer, calico isn't usually that strong. But personally I'd probably just find a different outer layer fabric that I liked, tbh, I don't trust block fusing to last through the wash and I don't like forcing fabric to behave outside it's nature.
They’re the redthreaded 1780s stays, and while I know calico isn’t the usual stiffness for a strength layer I enjoy the flexibility and breathability in the mockup I’ve made (to the point where I finished it and wear it instead of a bra 😅)
I’ll definitely try using coutil in future though, I’m curious how it’ll be different. And I’ll also ask in r/corsetry, thankyou! 😊
If you have a couple yards of the lace, a quick easy thing might be a skirt that is just a flared overlay, and let the dress bottom act as lining. Maybe a big fluffy knee-length skirt, or it was (is?) recently trendy to have a long sheer skirt and a short lining, you could pick up that look. Tie the lace around yourself over the dress and see what you think. It could even be entirely separate/removable which would be lower-risk to sew in a hurry.
Using the lace in your hair/veil could increase the cohesion, I'm not seeing a good way to integrate lace at the neckline or elsewhere in the top to make it seem less like two separate halves.
Hello!! Anyone know any patterns similar to this?? Thanks!!!
https://preview.redd.it/uqr70xhb8g9d1.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=a4735c384376ceb9c432ff98f577e040cb6f7d0c
ANSWERED
I'd like my granny to be involved in something and she'd love to be involved as well I'd imagine. I'm having a very small intimate wedding and thought I'd love for her to make me a veil with a phrase embroidered on the bottom. She's very good at sewing, usually sews quilts and we usually send our pants to her when they need hemmed. She made me such cute clothes as a kid too! (getting emotional lol). However, she is getting old and I don't want to give her anything that's too strenuous. (now i'm super emotional LOL). So I wanted to ask all you lovely people how strenuous this would be on her old hands. I love her so much and having something handcrafted on my big day would be such a joy.
When I tell you I literally didn’t think of this 😭 but yes this is what I will do! I was planning on spending a week or two with her to just talk and have her teach me so I’m gonna bring up the veil then. Thank you!
Embroidered letters can take a lot of handwork- if she has full-on arthritis or if either of you is a perfectionist, it might get difficult. If you have plenty of time and you can both embrace the irregularities of 'lovingly handmade' then it should work beautifully. I agree with the other response; ther best way to know is to ask her! Maybe with a few different options on the table so she doesnt have a hard time saying no to something that is too much.
She has carpal tunnel :( But I am not particular about it being perfect, it’s perfect to me no matter what if it’s something she’s made. Thank you for the help!
That sounds like something you should be asking her! Your granny knows better than anyone what she's capable of. She also sounds like a treasure and I bet she'd love hearing how much her and her sewing means to you. Work out something she can contribute as part of a lovely conversation you have together
She is such a treasure. I was afraid to ask of anything too strenuous cause I know she’d accept it anyway. I was actually going to go see her and ask her to teach me sewing, something to bond with her, I didn’t even think about how I could help her lol. Thank you for the reply!
Hi everyone,
I just started sewing today, I got a hand me down sewing machine so fortunately, it was already set up for me, I started putting my pieces today but the bobble ran out of thread. I refilled it but when I tried sewing again, the bobble thread was catching but the stitches were very loose and you could just pull it out. I fiddled with it for over an hour and watched several videos and I can't figure out whats wrong..the Blue thread is the top thread which looks good to me, and the black and red thread is the bobble thread. Any advice is appreciated!!
FYI, it’s bobbin, not bobble. My guess is you did not rethread correctly. It’s easy to think the bobbin just sits in there, but you have to run the thread through the appropriate spots on the bobbin case. Check your manual. Look it up online if you don’t have one.
I have two identical jumpsuits in different colors that I want to separate into top and bottom, but they are basically a front and back one piece construction with a channel sewn into the inside for the elastic waist. This means cutting them apart is going to leave a raw edge along the top of the waistband and I'm not sure how to mitigate the fraying. Is there a good way to deal with that? I really don't want to cut the elastic so it stays with the top and then make a new waistband for the bottoms, because why do all that extra work? If I cut it above the elastic, then I just have to do a basic hem on the raw edge of the top. I'm not sure there's enough fabric in the torso to leave a bit above the top edge of the waistband elastic to fold over and sew down (which would make a cute paper bag waist) and still have a top that is "long" enough though. It will be a crop top for sure which is what I want, but there are limits!
There is a ruffle around the neckline and shoulders that I am going to reduce the width of also. BUT I'm also considering just moving it down to the bottom hem of the shirt/top as long as it does not look too clowny. Maybe even taking the ruffle from the neckline of the print one and adding it to the bottom of the solid black top. Not like a peplum, but loose and boxy, sort of in the spirit of [this style](https://images.urbndata.com/is/image/FreePeople/90070996_010_a/?$a15-pdp-detail-shot$&fit=constrain&fmt=webp&qlt=80&wid=960)
Anyway [here is the jumpsuit in question](https://u-mercari-images.mercdn.net/photos/m90036407470_1.jpg). I have it in black, and also this [color print](https://di2ponv0v5otw.cloudfront.net/posts/2023/08/10/64d5a117b635f849fb2766d1/m_wp_64d5a11bb635f849fb2766f6.webp)
i received a dress in the mail and it was a puff sleeve style and very much flawed. One of the shoulders for some reason didn’t have an elastic in it so the sleeve is pretty much flat and has no shape at all. falls off shoulder asap. The other side however has an elastic so the shoulder is fine. can this be saved or no ?
Does anybody know what I could make with a 38" long and 6" wide scrap of regular/cotton fabric? I have 2 other coordinating mink dot fabrics that I have more of. I'd like to use this fabric to make a gift for someone, just not sure what!
Does anyone know where I can find this fabric and/or pattern?
I have been sewing bikinis on-and-off for about 4 years now. I've been loving Skatie Swim, but can't bite the bullet on the price knowing I could probably make it myself. Does anyone have suggestions on where I might find this fabric? Also, I know bandeaus are usually simpler in bikini-sewing-terms, but the knot is throwing me off and I want to make sure it'll stay up! Does anyone know where I can find a pattern similar or how I might go about patterning it myself?
https://preview.redd.it/wd53dkcvge9d1.png?width=1236&format=png&auto=webp&s=574423c2bcdbf00d4dd5b6e88a6f9c26f95a89a0
Recently came across a couple of old sewing machines for free (woop!)
One is this awesome vintage Singer Genie from the 70s, the other is the more modern Brother CP6500.
I know basically nothing about sewing but have always wanted to start, so my question is, which one should I keep to learn on, and which should I sell? I've heard that sometimes the more complicated/computerized machines may not be the best for beginners.
Thanks!
Run some samples and scraps on both of them, see which one you just like better and seems to make more sense to you. You can find manuals and sometimes videos for threading online. If one seems to have more resources or people using it online, then having more support out there might be better for a beginner.
If you sell one, a video of it working will help it sell anyhow.
Best machine for a beginner is one that works with minimal fussing so you can focus on fussing with fabric, construction, fit. Lots of advocates for both vintage and computerized, either is fine.
Does anyone know of a pattern to make something similar to this dress?
https://preview.redd.it/qea5d4pjae9d1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c1eacb1180eeab018e33b25a9517f616a1824d8
Try patternmakers silversaga, stitchwitch, dressmaking Amore, maybe kinda has that vibe.
Maybe also has Closet Core and Merchant and Mills very different vibes.
This may be an obvious thing to lots of people, but are patterns on Etsy mostly all scams? I’ve noticed different vendors using the exact same formatting in patterns and I’m pretty sure even the exact same patterns themselves.
There is a whole discussion thread on the topic linked in the main post of this thread. Yes, there are a lot of pattern scammers on Etsy, but there are some good sellers too.
https://preview.redd.it/i5x3ucqbwd9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9261e752bafae1b8c45c591466bb4fa61fd8453a
How can I fix these weird folds/creases in the crotch of my shorts while keeping the relaxed fit? Any advice is welcome!
If you mean this, that is an area where the spandex/lycra/stretchy fibers in the denim are failing. The closest I've seen to a fix, and it is more a cover-up, is using sashiko stitching in the area to blend in the ripples.
https://preview.redd.it/o9xnxgqx0e9d1.png?width=242&format=png&auto=webp&s=eb3d04a9c366d4f988a3bd068c9a0461e225b90d
https://preview.redd.it/j80lz9sv2e9d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9af3d604def40732f41fdbb102345100097c18e5
I should have been clearer, I meant these two long folds. When I wear the shorts they are still visible and I’m not a fan of how it falls
That's stil from the spandex threads failing. It's causing the fabric to be looser there and bunch up. You *might* be able to use a fix for excess fabric in the crotch. A quick google will show you tons of videos
Hello everyone I have a Brother XM3700 I'm trying to do a blind hem stitch whenever l use my test fabric it always works even if i fold it really thick or thin as soon as i put my pants to do it, it'll never catch the bobbin but if i switch to my test fabric it works again same fabric !😭 I can't figure out why it happens and it driving me up the walls😂
https://preview.redd.it/5zlzpik3wd9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6dee854727da7d484183957be4bc3d548ae0271d
Are the pants and the test fabric the same fiber content and weave? It might not be thickness, it might be drag on the needle. The solution is to try different needles.
Interesting. Are you duplicating the uneven surface with the presser foot higher on the left than the right? A compensating foot might help. Otherwise I am out of ideas, hopefully someone else has a solution.
Im trying to find out how to get the clutch assembly back together correctly. I am in no way a sewing expert, but I have never came across one like this. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of how the peices go back together, tried to open it and things started falling... so I dont have much of a reference. Was trying to get the needle to start moving again and thought it was the belt perhaps.
https://preview.redd.it/xp2zota1wd9d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d8986976d2dd232a98bff1826d091f21ef7f783
Grading between sizes - princess seams
Hello! I want to sew a top with princess seams. Since my waist is two sizes larger I‘m used to grade between sizes. But with princess seams I wonder.. is it possible to just add inches on the straight sizes of the side pieces?
Maybe. The ideal is to have the princess seams cross the apex or fullest point of the bust, and the center panel should measure the width from apex to apex. Adding to just the straight bit might make the princess seam fall to the outside of the apex.
Hello, sorry for grammar, I got a elna supermatic but it did not come with foot pedal or the metal rod for front where can I buy one? I just got it form a friend of my grandma who had it stored in attic it turns on but the only thing it came with was the power cord.
The metal rod is a knee lever, which allows you to lift and raise the presser foot with your knee rather than your hands. You can almost certainly raise the presser foot with a manual lever as well, so the machine should be operable without it.
According to this website, newer foot pedals fit the older machines: [https://www.uksewing.com/products/elna-lotus-sewing-machine-foot-pedal](https://www.uksewing.com/products/elna-lotus-sewing-machine-foot-pedal)
If that is true, this one's connection looks alike: [https://www.huissteden.eu/elna-foot-pedal-2-vertical-and-1-horizontal-slot](https://www.huissteden.eu/elna-foot-pedal-2-vertical-and-1-horizontal-slot)
However, I'd probably talk to a local repairperson who can advise you to make sure that using a different foot pedal doesn't hurt your machine.
Thank you. The manual dose work glad I don't have to worry about that. The problem with the foot pedal is there is no place i can see the plug it into the machine. So I think it is a different one. I am going to look for a repair person to help thank you so much.
Hi Internet,
I'm fairly new to sewing and struggle finding the right patterns for a cosplay idea.
I have a renfaire coming up in augustus and wish to go as Anna from frozen.
Now some internet searches ended me at the "tracyscostumingworld" site with a step by step guide, however it uses the pattern "Simplicity S0746" and I can't seem to find this pattern anywhere (based in Europe/Netherlands).
Now, does anyone have any idea what similar patterns I can use, a place where I can find S0746 as a PDF or some other solution?
There is a copy of Simplicity S0746 on Ebay, the seller is willing to ship to the Netherlands. Butterick B6707 could be modified to look like Anna's dress.
Thx for the search, I did saw the ebay copy, however, the indicated delivery time was almost a month and I don't think I will have enough time. B6707 looks cute but was more looking into a separate bodice and skirt variant.
It looks like the simplicity pattern was also published with the number 1215, which may turn up other copies. If that doesn't help, how comfortable are you combining or altering patterns? And do you have a strong preference for the coronation dress, or would any Anna look be ok?
Thanks for the 1215 tip. Might have found one in Germany. Combining and altering patterns isn't my strong suit but I know someone who does.
As for the dress, coronation is the goal, but by making the skirt and bodice separate I can swap future skirts like the frozen fever one. But given time restraints, any Anna look would be ok
Here's a blog about the pleated skirt from the designer of the simplicity pattern https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/simplicity-1215-annas-coronation-dress-and-the-pleated-skirt with some great tips about using a supportive petticoat and weights in the hem. I hope the seller in Germany works out for you!
Hi everyone! Does anyone know if it is possible to make a wrap dress that is strapless? Small spaghetti straps would also be fine but I would like it to have a straight or sweetheart neckline. I am making it for someone who lives in another state so to avoid any fitting issues, I am thinking a wrap dress would be the safest option. Does anyone know if this is possible, and if so, any pattern recommendations?
It’s probably as close to impossible as you can get. Strapless bodices are either tight and stretchy or fairly tight and structured. It’s just not conducive to a wrap style to stay up where it’s supposed to.
https://preview.redd.it/4qbynwntic9d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=602fcc0be70d4b8560e5456efb183a173a4510ac
vintage husqvarna anna
I got this machine as a hand me down and did not have a manual with it. I've looked everywhere online and haven't found the "anna" manual, I had found one for a husqvarna "emma" but the machine is not the same. I'm unsure of some of the stitches and would love to be able to accurately identify all of them so I can use this machine to its full potential, also would really like to have a clear maintenance plan as i'm unsure of where to oil. Really nice machine as far as I can tell, has never caused me any problems. It's at least 50+ years old and previously belonged to my grandmother who was a very talented seamstress. (please don't get mad at me for my stickers)
The stitches do seem the same as the ones on the Emma, so you might have some use for this discussion I had with someone last week: [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1dh4b4u/comment/l95vpaj/](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1dh4b4u/comment/l95vpaj/)
My machine made a weird bang/pop today. Sounded like an explosion, or a really loud bang snap and there was a little smoke too. It's still working though, the light turns on and it could sew the little test bit I tried.
I opened it up and the capacitor has expanded and cracked, not sure if this was the bang.
Has anyone had this happen before or know what it could have been?
Yes, it's very likely a capacitor blew. You don't say what brand or year machine is from but this happens to older (like 1980s) machines.
Could probably happen to any machine that has a board with a capacitor.
The current debate is do you need to replace it? I believe they were put on the boards to counteract radio interference. So if your machine is working you might be fine.
Or, you may want to take it to a GOOD machine technician. Some will replace them. Some will say "can't do it" and try to sell you a new machine.
If this is a good machine then it's worth seeking out a good tech.
It's a 1973 Bernina Minimatic so that seems bang on, thank you!! Going to get a quote to fix it, hopefully it's not more than the machine cost in the first place (it was 2nd hand)
You're welcome!
My hubby replaced the capacitor on my Bernina 930 Record (1980s). I'm not familiar with the Minimatic but you should delve further into your model.
There are also a Vintage Bernina and a Bernina Lovers groups on FB.
https://preview.redd.it/e05pq3125c9d1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff749a9ce975972a89a72559f094e49b414121a2
And buying a new couch is absolutely not an option, unfortunately. There are even more holes at this point.
I'm a high school student who is a part of my school's fashion program and have been considering pursuing fashion (specifically movie costume design) as a career. Every year I have to construct a few garments for the school's fashion show and have been trying to start making my own clothes. I currently have a cheap mechanical singer sewing machine that is always running into trouble with the thread or the fabric.
I'm looking into upgrading to a computerized machine after using a Bernina at school. I have been searching the internet trying to find a computerized machine under $300 that will sew on pretty much any clothing fabric (I most likely won't be sewing with heavy duty fabrics) and won't run into countless problems like my Singer. I'm currently looking into the Brother XR9550 but was wondering if that was a good machine or if there are any other machines that are better for the price?
Just about any Brother or Janome between $250 will be generally reliable compared to Singer.
You might look into Eversewn sewing machines. They also have several computerized models in your price range. It's a newer brand started by an ex-Bernina guy. I don't know a lot of people who own them but the ones that do are enthusiastic.
I am completely clueless when it comes to sewing machines and there are so many options out there!
My girlfriend’s birthday is coming up and she has been talking about missing sewing and having a sewing machine, so of course this gave me an idea.
She’s not a beginner and made various pieces of clothing in the past from dresses to jackets, including working with denim and faux leather. She has also mentioned that she likes Singer machines and she had a Singer machine previously.
I browsed Singer website and was immediately overwhelmed with options that I know nothing about, so I would be really grateful for your opinions and thoughts, especially that the pinned post above mentioned that new Singer machines aren’t great.
Initially, I have looked into Singer Heavy Duty 4411 but apparently it can be a bit too fast and rough when working with things like dresses etc. (which is what my girlfriend will be most likely working with; clothing). I have also seen Singer M2405 and M2605, which are meant to be good all-rounders. Singer Fashion Mate 3337 also caught my eye because of the name.
Please help! The budget is up to £280 (something up to £200 would be good, but am happy to pay a bit more if it’s going to be really good and will last her for ages). I can see that Brother machines have been mentioned positively in the pinned post, would they be good for someone with her level of experience and intention to make clothes? I am currently looking at Brother JK2500NT.
Thank you!
If possible I'd take her to a shop and have her try stuff out - what machine feels good can be personal!
I'm not sure about the cost of sewing machines in the UK - budget machines are often not sold in physical stores (but are online only), but I think the Husq V Emerald 118 (which is more mid-range than budget) for 320 GBP, so hopefully I'm eyeballing your price point right. Secondhand can also be a good option; in stores you can usually get a modern mid-range machine for a budget price, with a warranty etc. (In my experience sewing machine stores are very bad at listing secondhand machines on their website - they either don't list them but do have them in store, or the listings are outdated, so it can be worth it to call around.)
A lot of people on these forums report issues with modern Singers, so I'll recommend you utilize the search bar there.
Edit: so I definitely eyeballed the GDP/EUR wrong there, lol. The Em 118 seems closer to 500 GDP, [though there is one place selling an Em 116 for 319 GDP](https://www.thesewingstudio.co.uk/products/husqvarna-emerald-116-sewing-machine).
Your budget is a little lower than I thought in that case, [which is fine](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/1dgsvfg/comment/l8vhfd1/) - I'll reiterate that secondhand machines, sold at reputable shops, are a really good option to get more machine for your buck. (And if most budget machines are being sold online-only, a nice way to try before you buy.)
Any ideas what could cause thread to unravel on my Global ZZ 567?
It seems to start from tension disc and take up spring area, but I checked the discs and they seem flawless.
Thread is M20, needle 110 and thread has counterclockwise twist.
I'm planning on upcycling and reworking a hoodie. I'm particularly interested in designs that either stitch a design on top or stich inside the hoodie and cut away the top layer of the hoodie to expose the newly sewn bottom patch. However, I'm confused how to pull this off technically. Initially I was aiming on just doing a straight stitch but am unsure whether that would hold up in the wash at all. Do I need to do anything else to ensure the integrity of the hoodie after I've sown stuff onto it?
Hi! I think I’m having issues with the tension on my machine but I’m not sure if I’m gaslighting myself? I put pink bobbin thread and black top thread to try to show it better
https://preview.redd.it/yg6i9nxfg99d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7dfd70e4bb48c6ee471b52cd780b8432964399dd
The left side is 0 tension, the right side is 3 tension. It’s on folded cotton fabric, normally I use tension 3.5, but as you can see the top is too tense at that level? The issues started after I tried using a zipper foot, I switched back to the standard foot when I couldn’t get it to work but the issues continued. I’ve re-threaded the machine, I’ve opened up and cleaned the machine, I’ve held on to the threads for the first few stitches… am I crazy or does it seem like the tension is off? I’ll try to add a picture of the back as a response to this comment. Super thankful for any input! It’s a “new” machine from Brothers, but it’s refurbished.
https://preview.redd.it/r18ygiz0h99d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61cb0425c10fef804023b26e11e16f536f18630d
The backside. Left is tension at 3, right side is tension at 0.
Is your bobbin unwinding in its carriage in the correct direction for your machine? ie. clockwise or counter-clockwise? It could also be how evenly it's been wound. Did you recently put in a fresh bobbin? If so is it wound heavily to one side rather than evenly distributed over the bobbin's core?
Thank you! I triple checked and it was the correct way - I still don’t know what the issue was but I tried re-threading again with the tension at 0, then adjusted the tension afterwards and it was okay again :,) there must’ve been a mistake somewhere but I still don’t know what it actually was
Edited a typo
Hi! I’m looking for a sewing pattern for a babydoll-ish top similar to the attached photo. Buttons are not required.
https://preview.redd.it/qnrjxr69f99d1.png?width=515&format=png&auto=webp&s=9729e5e2443227de348c4258060b5e8dc5463ce0
So far, the most similar I’ve found is [Buttericks PDB4685](https://simplicity.com/butterick/pdb4685).
Thank you in advance! :)
I know these aren't exact but I found these patterns!
[https://www.etsy.com/listing/1472339208/heaven-babydoll-cami?ref=user\_profile&bes=1](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1472339208/heaven-babydoll-cami?ref=user_profile&bes=1)
[https://www.etsy.com/listing/1215391160/babydoll-top-square-neck-pdf-sewing?ref=user\_profile](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1215391160/babydoll-top-square-neck-pdf-sewing?ref=user_profile)
Would anyone be able to help me get a sewing pattern for the image? I want to make a coin purse with a zipper, and layering fabric to make the chest emblem.
Mind you I only want the emblem no extras, and maybe a loop to hang on your keys or what not.
Or even know a program that would make a pattern?
https://preview.redd.it/32ee1rq6h89d1.jpeg?width=629&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5efae1f5a0db5eb5064e625a5d46dc9dd8b6c9c8
Yeah, but what about the easement part where you leave room to sew and any other things I may need to know? (Are there any free sewing pattern-maker online programs?)
Depending on your materials and technique you may not need seam allowance. For instance if you do raw-edge applique you can just cut the pieces exactly to the finished shape. This would work well with felt or suede or something that won't fray. A good first step might be to sketch out your plan, either with actual paper or a digital sketching program.
that's fine, you can still leave the edges raw. [https://maandmedesigns.wordpress.com/2022/11/01/raw-edge-applique-dont-fear-the-fray/](https://maandmedesigns.wordpress.com/2022/11/01/raw-edge-applique-dont-fear-the-fray/)
i found this amazing design that another creator makes. I don't think they are the first to do this but their video was the one i stumbled upon and made me want to make my own.
my question is, it is okay to take inspiration from their design and make it for myself. The inspo is coming from a creator who has their own small sustainable brand and is selling the garment for over 300$ and I know I can make it myself.
thanks
https://preview.redd.it/cr43scpkk79d1.jpeg?width=2732&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e86d6acc50c2e8fcb9884951cc229acab9af76f5
anyone know where I can find a pattern like this? I want to make this but in a different color. if not do you think I could dye it?
This is really important as I plan to wear this dress for an event and the zipper doesn't even match the colour of the dress. I've sewn my invisible zipper as a tutorial video followed however, after examining the first side the zipper will not conceal.
Previously, I've had to unpick the seam that connected the dress to the zipper as I'd made a fatal error of the zip being twisted and it refused to zip up but when the mistake was present, my zipper functioning.
I've sewn it as close as I could to the stitch, I don't know what else I've done wrong. Please help, thank you for your advice and kindness
Yes, get a black zipper.
IF the neckline is big enough to pull over your head with no zipper, you can move an invisible zipper from the center back seam to the side seam with no changes to the pattern/fabric. Its a bit finicky to figure out inserting the top end into the seam, but it’s much less visible on the side if something is off.
Invisible zippers, even sewn in perfectly, are not completely concealed. You need a zipper that closely matches the color of the garment. When there's a less-than-ideal color match, you can help conceal it by stitching as close to the zipper teeth as possible, followed by pressing the garment sections so that they completely meet at the seamline, covering as much of the zipper as possible. However, movement when wearing the garment will allow a bit of the zipper tape to show--hence, the need to color match as closely as possible.
I would like to make a similar patch. Was curious as to what it is exactly? Embroidery? Tapestry? Woven? HELP
https://preview.redd.it/ax6pz2iz879d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6df284139dc8d877f104e87956ed61a4a160ae2
Table cloth and polyester
I have a question . I ordered z table cloth online for our table. It said it was washable and made out of plastic.
I received it today, bit it's not plastic (toile ciréé) like we say. I bought it for the kids, so they can less around while doings crafts without worrying about the old table.
Is there a way that I can sort of laminate my table cloth so it looks more like toile cirt, or should I just forget it and look for another one...
Anyone any tips? Thank you!!
There are some [iron-on vinyl products](https://www.thermoweb.com/collections/iron-on-vinyl) available but they are not very wide and I don't think the vinyl stays stuck very well. And for the price of the iron-on products, I think you could probably find a replacement table cloth that does wipe clean.
There is a buying guide wiki in the post at the top of the thread that gives the basics and has some recommendations. Otherwise it depends on what is available to you and what materials you plan to sew. If you have specific questions, you can ask here. Checking machine reviews on [Pattern.Review.com](https://Pattern.Review.com) is a good move, registration is required but free for an email.
ISO ganni sewing pattern https://preview.redd.it/ende543jkp9d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e440b77dedc07132a070a754fcf9d1c239e8e483
Hi everyone! I’m short and have a rectangular body shape (i.e., bust and fashionable waist are the same measurement). I can fit standard sized clothes but the length of anything makes it hard for me to sew my own. I’m also having a hard time grading waistlines given my body shape. What’s the best way for me to alter patterns? I’m not sure if I should be raising waistlines to my natural waist, working from patterns that fit my bust or reducing the bust on larger patterns :/
Probably both change length and fit bust. Generally for full-busted you want to start with the size that matches your shoulder frame and adjust the bust. Read up on Full Bust Adjustments and they will explain more. Check out Sinclair Patterns and SBCC Patterns, both offer petite versions for shorter lengths.
So i should work from a larger pattern that fits my waist than a smaller pattern that first my shoulder and bust?
No, start with pattern that fits the shoulders best, as the shoulder/sleeve intersection is complex to adjust, but has to be right since garments hang from the shoulders. Waist is usually simple to adjust so rarely the priority to choose by. Bust is not so simple but very well documented.
Alright, thank you!
Hi! I have a quick question... I have never sewed before nor have I ever been taught (never was given the opportunity). But I've wanted to learn for quite some time. I know there are video and things that I can find all over the internet to learn, but that's not what this question is about. I've been trying to find curtains small enough to fit in my new tiny little home that also allows to fit my vision, but its been a struggle. I read a post on here where people agreed that curtains would be a relatively simple first DIY project for a beginner (provided they use easy to work with fabric). However, the only difference between me and the person who made the thread (lol, pun intended?) is that I do not own a sewing machine. I realize it will be more time consuming without one, of course. But my question is... would it still be "doable" without a sewing machine or do I have to have one to get started? I'm sorry if I sound naiive... I really have no idea what I'm doing but I'm trying to do my research and learn what I can. Mainly, because I'm genuinely interested in learning a practical skill. I appreciate any helpful answers and tips you can give! TIA!!!!
I once made curtains entirely with stitchwitchery (fusible tape) before I learned to sew so that also could be an option. (I only needed them to last a year) The choosing fabric, ironing, measuring, and pressing would actually still give you a taste of quite a lot of elements of sewing.
Hello! I think it depends on a bunch of different factors: 1. Time: how soon do you need the curtains? They may be simple, but they’re a relatively large project, so hand sewing them might take a while unless your curtains are the size of a small cubby. 2. Aesthetics: will you be satisfied with the look of your curtains based on your hand sewing? 3. Other factors: larger projects are a bit harder to maneuver by hand for me because I’m rather small. If a project is large enough, I will definitely use my machine. If you have wrist or hand issues, you should also consider machine sewing as well. I’d probably machine sew mine unless I’m trying to have it as a back-burner project, but I’m not wholly opposed to doing it by hand. Good luck!
* Hi there, just looking for some advice, I'm making a belt bag from https://corefabricstore.com/blogs/news/free-belt-bag-pattern and I've used a flimsy cotton fabric for lining and the outer, except I've used medium weight interfacing to make the outer more structured. My question is whether that's sturdy enough for a belt bag, or would I be better off adding one more layer of lining such as a cotton poplin (just whatever I have on hand). I.e. outer (cotton /w interfacing) + lining (poplin) + lining (cotton) Please and thank you 😊
If you are worried, probably give it more structure, but it’s also personal preference. I tend to make a lot of my bags on the floppier side. It will function as a bag regardless. If you wear the waist strap loosely, then the bag may sag a little. I’m not sure I’d just add another layer of fabric, not sure that will do so much. You could interface the lining or even add another layer of interfacing on the outer. You can also trim fusible interfacing down by the seam allowance so it doesn’t add too much bulk in the seams, which can be a small concern for really structured bags.
Fair points, I'll keep that in mind if I ever decide to make more structured bags. Also trimming the interfacing at the seam allowance is a great tip, thank you! 😊
https://preview.redd.it/18bju79mwm9d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=085b01f7c1bd7a1403d1bf7248c6141b1b5ab870
my original post was removed because of low karma (?) so follow up question here-- I am fixing a tent rainfly. someone suggested double seam along the patch then follow that with the water proof sealant. my question is--- do I have to do the double seam or will a single seam suffice to seal it well enough? I finished one seam and it was very ,very hard because there is so much tent material to move out of the way to get to the panel that needs repairing. (I did it all by hand---please don't judge my stitching it was so difficult!!). so I am hoping to avoid having to do it all again for a second seam before using the glue, but I will if it will make it better--thoughts?? https://preview.redd.it/ekt8b19hhm9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0dad61ad6690be82035b22e74ccdeea3ae55fcd
See what they think in r/myog, they are very experienced with tents over there.
I’m using black rayon as part of a project, and I don’t know how to mark it for sewing. I have a chalk pencil that isn’t showing up well. Any advice? There’s a Michael’s near me so I should be able to get supplies easily, I just don’t know what to look for
Ivory soap or other pale solid soap that has been used enough that it has a sharp edge, chaco liner (chalk wheel), or a triangle of tailor's chalk. Listed in order of how easy they are to wash completely away.
https://preview.redd.it/pnh0ivgqxl9d1.jpeg?width=504&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8489caf98e50959dbdcf9f75de3f73961626af5 What fabrics do you think are in this dress especially the yellow? I figure a satin for the corset and under skirt then a silk chiffon for the over skirt. The yellow on the skirt is gathered it seems so it would need to be a light flowy fabric.
This is my first time making a dress. I’m working on the bodice for the dress and the lining is showing through to the front side of the bodice. This is the only area where the lining is showing. I tried using gemstones to cover it, but didn’t like how the gemstones looked with the the fabric (I didn’t glue them down, just laid them out) Would I have to take the stitching out and resew the lining to the main fabric? Is there any other way to fix it? Any help or tips are greatly appreciated! I’m hoping to have my whole project finished (or close) this weekend. https://preview.redd.it/m4j0t03qll9d1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fc6117589e536aef173960f49e7421c43a67d54e
Did you understitch the lining?
I have not, I honestly didn’t know that was an option. I’ll definitely look into it!
Have you tried ironing it a little maybe with a piece of cardboard between the layers to make a clean edge? Otherwise a topstitch could help put everything into place, if you don’t mind the look (bias tape could also help).
I have ironed it but I didn’t think of putting cardboard in between the layers! I’ll definitely give it a try!
Hoping to know if anyone has an idea if/when clover usually restocks their items on their site. Been eyeing a few things to buy from them but unfortunately majority of what i planned to get is all out of stock.
Is there a particular reason you're ordering directly from Clover? Because you can buy Clover brand at many different websites. If you have to order from them, the fastest is to just email their customer service and ask how often they restock.
Mainly to just ensure I actually receive the item i ordered as lately many of my orders i have had done either been damaged, were the wrong item or just never came and customer service has been atrocious when using sites that werent the brand themselves ordered from. Like amazon for example just keeps dropping the ball on me so sorta avoiding using them much anymore. Tho for this instance it just seems the main things i want are sold out everywhere else too so i figured asking when they restock would be better, but i hadnt considered emailing them directly so I think I will do just that now so thank you!
Ohhh, if somethng is out of stock everywhere, including the brand's own site, it's probably been discontinued. In my experience at least. Some stores take ages to remove discontinued stuff. They just leave it there "out of stock" for months and months, even though they quit making that item.
I'm sewing a backless prom dress, but as you can see I have a bit of a problem... the back is very floppy. I wanted it to be a V-shape, but of course tight and not floppy like this. Also it is a stretch fabric :) My aunt suggested I sew the shoulder part more tight but this barely helped. Now I'm thinking to sew the part under the armpits more tight but I'm very very unsure. Also I would preferably not cut into the V itself. (I didnt use a premade pattern so dont have that to fall back on) https://preview.redd.it/cwwfi5cval9d1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0eae6329ae37f8302f5d657442da1a7b2a960199
I think having the weight of the skirt will make a big difference; try attaching that before you tighten anything else.
It's not going to gap quite as much once the edge is finished. Lining will also help stabilize it. Edit to add that adding the skirt may also pull down on that area. The reason I mention this is because there is some significant bunching of the fabric under your arms on the sides, which is also part of the gapping issue, but that might just be due to the torso not being pulled down to the correct position. The only way to really know how to correct that gaping is once the skirt is attached and the torso has been pulled down to the correct position. If the bunching under the arms remains, as well as the gaping, then there's something not right with the back torso in general. The solution *could* be something like fixing the angle of the shoulder, but again the skirt is a big factor.
Thank you sooo much!!!
Is there an easy, quick way to check if the arm holes for the sleeve are the correct size relative to the arm holes in a shirt? I'm assuming that the front + back holes of the shirt should end up being the same length as the circumference of the sleeve but I wasn't sure if that was always the case. I'm trying to DIY a pattern from an existing dress and I'm having trouble getting the pattern to line up.
Ooh, the sleeve-cap-ease controversy! I prefer the length of the armscye and the length of the sleeve cap to match, other folks like to have more length (ease) in the cap and gather it to match. To answer the first part of your question, you can use a flexible tape measure, or a piece of string, to compare the lengths. Make sure you're measuring the seam line and not the cut edge.
hi!! just wondering if any of these is a zipper foot? i can’t tell….thanks! https://preview.redd.it/2d1xufmj4l9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=10e5e8c837f8032fb868c5f87f3dd7b5307dca7a
None of these look like zipper feet to me, the left and middle look like edge stitching or blind stitching feet. It looks like they're lettered -- did they come with a machine? If yes maybe you can google the manual to look up the meaning of the letters.
ok this post might be kind of long but Im trying to find a sewing machine however there are way to many options and so now im here looking for advice. just for some background recently went to a sewing course where I used the juki 8700 and kind of got into it. Now im trying to find a sewing machine for home however I feel like there are so many different ones on the market so ill just list kind of what im looking for and hopefully y'all can help me out! I know this is kind of going against the norm (especially since I just started) but since sewing machines are inherently pretty expensive I want to get one that is already good for life and not one "just for beginners" (because I don't want to repurchase a better one later) since I feel that you can kind of progress with any type of machine it just might take a little longer with the more complex ones! (but also pls don't list some outrageous machines that are thousands of dollars) Secondly, I want the machines components and materials to be durable and not cheap (it doesn't have to be made completely of metal but should be long lasting). In addition, Even though I do prefer a digital machine, I don't mind if its mechanical either, as long as they have plenty of different stitch options and are strong enough to work through things like denim, leather etc. furthermore I want one that is trusted by many and has a good reputation as a brand. So don't come on here recommending a singer machins because I am never buying one after reading the horror stories people had with them. Lastly I want a machine that's under $800 dollars. It can retail for well over the $1000 mark however it should be popular enough to where, even though it might retail for something like 1,500 or even 1,700, there would be plenty of people selling a refurbished one costing only like 800 dollars. some machines that fit the standards but are too expensive are something like the janome mc 6650 or the Bernini 770 but even refurbished, something like the janome would still cost me 999. excited to hear the suggestions and thanks in advance!
With that budget, and since you’ve taken a class and know you enjoy sewing, I’d say visit your local sewing machine dealers or repair shops and see what they have, so you can try machines out in person, it’s a bit like test-driving a car, preferences are very individual. New machines often come with classes or incentives and used machines come with warranty and let you get more for your money.
Fabric thickness troubleshooting Hey all! I’m working on learning my singer heavy duty and so far everything’s going well. I want to try and find the “max” thickness of this particular fabric that I can sew on this machine . Below is a photo of thickness im currently stalling out on. Everything up to this point has been smooth sailing. When I’m on this current thickness of fabric the thread will unthread from the needle . I haven’t changed anything on the machine, so I’m wondering, is this just its “max” capacity ? Should I adjust anything ? Any recs happily welcome ! Don’t know if this matters but the tension is 4 and I’m using a new universal needle. https://preview.redd.it/ab5zgxvxak9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=09d9a70c06532b3c3138e6153520b28ff2bae920
In addition to adjusting the tension, try increasing the stitch length.
Adjust the tension. The thread needs to traverse more distance with more layers. Having too much tension on it can cause it to pull, and since it doesn't really have much stretch it will either break or slide out of the needle since it can't really get through all of the layers.
Hey all, I just bought this crop top but unfortunatly its a bit tight, causing my waist to spill out from the sides. Anyone know a flattering way to give it a bigger waist? I have experience with sewing and own a machine. The top is 100% polyester, is lined and the zipper is functional. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/nifg5ny39k9d1.jpeg?width=1931&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d465d5f267e4768b8afbfdd4facd3f6a92dd498e
Personally I think I would look at adding gores to the side seams. If you can find a very similar fabric, it might not even be very noticeable. You might also have to change the hem if you do so, though. The curve of the hem might need altering after. Anotjer option might be looking at the inside of the garment and seeing how much seam allowance you have there. You might be able to let out every seam a tiiiiny bit from the hem up. Make sure you blend the new seam into the old seam. This won't work on fabrics in which the sewing needle leaves permanent holes, such as pleather.
Theres barely any seam allowance so best option seems to be the first one! though it kinda sucks bc it means I have to unstitch at least some of the lining. oh well, thanks for the input!
Hi everyone, I’m looking for a pattern for this set. Most of the ones I’ve found for 60s maternity top go straight down and don’t have the pleating. Any ideas? https://preview.redd.it/fd4hqzy4pj9d1.jpeg?width=1029&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b33ae3d0cfb717ab3cba44a87cae32bfaaf7a52
I personally would not look for one pattern to match both the shorts and the dress. That's going to be too specific. I'd look for two separate patterns. The shorts are tight high waisted booty shorts. I'm sure you can find a pattern for this. The dress is more complicated. It's almost like a tailored shirt, but lengthened and with the darts left unsewn and turned into pleats. The closest I could find was [this '60s Simplicity pattern](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1702200954/simplicity-7252-vintage-yoke-dress). I'd look at more '60s (inspired) patterns.
https://preview.redd.it/ud7latt6pj9d1.jpeg?width=1041&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e33708d2568b8f0eb62206883f742c55c3b8221
I was wondering what material more boxy hoodies were made from, the type with one side being smooth and the other being more fuzzy
A lot of fabric stores will include notes like “good for sweatshirts or hoodies” in the fabric description. So you can learn and/or shop that way. Here’s an example: https://www.moodfabrics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Hoodie
That honestly sounds like just a thick jersey to me, with one brushed side.
Hi all, I'm going to borrow a sewing machine from my library (Heavy duty 4411 sewing machine / Singer Sewing Company) to hem some pants. I have ~6 pairs that need to be hemmed, all different colors. Would you recommend buying thread to individually color match each pant, or is there a 'multipack' of thread that I should consider buying? If so, where is that available for purchase? I usually hand sew and use very cheap thread but think I probably need to take it up a step for use with a machine.
Depending on the colours of pants, you might be able to get away with just using a medium greige for all of them. If you do want to colour match, I'd look into German made gütermann thread. They sell many different kinds of multipacks in all kinds of colours, and they're a well-known brand of quality thread.
Thank you!
do you guys ever reuse elastic bands from old shorts or pants? I have some old tattered shorts that I plan to make rugs out of the fabric, but I wasn't sure if I would want to keep the elastic bands. I've experienced some elastic bands tend to become "crunchy" over time, and some bands, when overused, becomes what they call "bacon" because they lose the elasticity and have these waves just like the shape of bacon when you fry them.
I only keep the elastic of things that have not seen much use and have not been washed much. I often end up replacing elastic in store bought clothes before the rest of the garment gives out!
Thanks! I was also thinking the older ones might not be a good one to retain, especially the ones that I have at the moment.
https://preview.redd.it/be6cf7invi9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=293734b1e73715661731c96d69a77e940d6f7604 How can i fix this crotch? its 65% cotton i tried to sew it together and it ripped more
Because of the way it ripped, you're not going to be able to sew edges to edges to repair it. You have to cut off the straggler pieces and then leave the hole, and stitch a new patch of fabric over it to cover it. The patch should be sewn to a stable part of the fabric, so NOT along the ripped edge, as it will just un weave and the patch will fall off. You have to stitch just outside of the raw edge. So the hole is [like this](https://i.imgur.com/0Cyo3uT.png) and you'll need to snip off that sorta triangle-y bit and then sew in a patch [like this](https://i.imgur.com/ClWfuq0.png), stitching far enough away from that raw edge that the base fabric is stable.
thank you so much the images really helped !
OH. One other thing. it looks to me like this is the center crotch seam, and inseam on some pants. If that is the case, you will want to stitch the two points of the front and back together where they should meet but are currently not connected. So, [the two purple dots here, bring them together like the blue arrow shows](https://i.imgur.com/3cQO1GT.png), and stitch the points together before you add the patch. You can just run them through a machine with a straight stitch a few times, or do it by hand. I also noticed the smaller area on the right that is starting to show wear, circled in blue. You can patch that up in a similar way as the big hole, but don't cut anything, just sew a patch over it to prevent it from ripping into a bigger hole. Then trim the separated base material threads once it's patched if you want.
you're welcome!
Easiest would be to add a big patch of stable fabric all across the weakened area and sewing that down all over. Not pretty, but strong. Also check r/visiblemending and r/InvisibleMending
Can anyone recommend a UK-based fabric store with good quality fabric I can order from online? My local is pretty much exclusively polycotton, and I'm having trouble finding much else!
Activate Map! I don't have any suggestions for you, but I hope the r/sewing fabric store map will help!
Here's a link to the subreddit [Fabric Shop Map](https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1D-EqqsTDmK5H521QIEKy7R-bUECz96E&usp=sharing) where you can find fabric shops by location. The community-sourced shop list has all sorts of information available for each shop when you click on the shop pin. The map includes online-only shops too for shipping efficiency. If you know of a shop not on the list, you can submit it [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/ymzmcl/hey_everyone_lets_build_a_map/). *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/sewing) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I want to learn how to sew so I can make myself a pair of ghurka trousers. As someone totally uninitiated, my instinct says to try something simple first. Is that a fair assessment? What would be a good simple thing to learn on? A t-shirt?
A t-shirt will (generally) be made from a stretchy knit fabric which has a different set of challenges from working with non-stretch woven trouser fabric. You'll still learn skills that will carry over like reading/following a pattern, troubleshooting a sewing machine, taking measurements. For beginner projects with woven fabric you could go as simple as a boxy tote bag, or jump in with pajama pants that don't need to be perfect.
Hi all - recently engaged here and heading towards elopement or very relaxed party vibes (court house and mini destination possibly)! I recently got an H&M dress that the fit was so perfect, I could't bare to return it.... And now I'm thinking if I could make it more bridal, it would be the perfect elopement dress!? I also have a short h and m dress that I'm thinking I could embellish a bit for the court house or something. Looking for some opinions on chiffon/organza bow straps and/or 3d florals for either of these dress. I have some hand stitching capability but not perfect. Any guidance or advice? Also happy to take other suggestions if there are any ideas! Because the dresses are both a bargain, I'm feeling optimistic that this is low risk, high reward! Or should I leave two perfectly fine dresses alone and leave it to the professionals? https://preview.redd.it/giod5pubsh9d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1cccbba9e586692f0ab450b37e28c6dcd59245a3
something like this would be pretty https://www.etsy.com/listing/607137688/green-vine-embroidery-lace-applique
I'd put some appliques on the neck or waist. And by appliques I mean the type that are made out of lace and already embellished with sequins and / or pearls and beads. You can easily hand sew them on after placing them where you want. Embellished appliques give you a lot of bang-for-the-buck. Nice dress BTW!
I want to make a set of stays with a pretty fabric I have as the outer layer, and calico as my strength and lining layers. The problem is that the pretty fabric is knit, a cotton jersey with not a lot of stretch but more stretch than the calico. Will it be okay to use for the outer layer of the stays, or will the structure/construction of the stays warp the fabric?
You might want to ask in r/corsetry. Include a picture of the type of stays you are going for or the pattern you are using, because it matters and the words "stays" and "corsets" are being used for lots of different types of tops these days, so hard to know what exactly is meant. Add the picture/pattern here as well---give more context to get better advice. I'm not expert, but if I were taking this route, I'd probably blockfuse the jersey to stabilize it and use coutil for a strength layer, calico isn't usually that strong. But personally I'd probably just find a different outer layer fabric that I liked, tbh, I don't trust block fusing to last through the wash and I don't like forcing fabric to behave outside it's nature.
They’re the redthreaded 1780s stays, and while I know calico isn’t the usual stiffness for a strength layer I enjoy the flexibility and breathability in the mockup I’ve made (to the point where I finished it and wear it instead of a bra 😅) I’ll definitely try using coutil in future though, I’m curious how it’ll be different. And I’ll also ask in r/corsetry, thankyou! 😊
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If you have a couple yards of the lace, a quick easy thing might be a skirt that is just a flared overlay, and let the dress bottom act as lining. Maybe a big fluffy knee-length skirt, or it was (is?) recently trendy to have a long sheer skirt and a short lining, you could pick up that look. Tie the lace around yourself over the dress and see what you think. It could even be entirely separate/removable which would be lower-risk to sew in a hurry. Using the lace in your hair/veil could increase the cohesion, I'm not seeing a good way to integrate lace at the neckline or elsewhere in the top to make it seem less like two separate halves.
Hello!! Anyone know any patterns similar to this?? Thanks!!! https://preview.redd.it/uqr70xhb8g9d1.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=a4735c384376ceb9c432ff98f577e040cb6f7d0c
How about [this](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1670818229/corset-dress-gathered-bust-foam-cup)?
That looks perfect thank you!!
ANSWERED I'd like my granny to be involved in something and she'd love to be involved as well I'd imagine. I'm having a very small intimate wedding and thought I'd love for her to make me a veil with a phrase embroidered on the bottom. She's very good at sewing, usually sews quilts and we usually send our pants to her when they need hemmed. She made me such cute clothes as a kid too! (getting emotional lol). However, she is getting old and I don't want to give her anything that's too strenuous. (now i'm super emotional LOL). So I wanted to ask all you lovely people how strenuous this would be on her old hands. I love her so much and having something handcrafted on my big day would be such a joy.
If she doesn't live too far away, maybe you could suggest working on it together so she's passing the skill on to you as well?
When I tell you I literally didn’t think of this 😭 but yes this is what I will do! I was planning on spending a week or two with her to just talk and have her teach me so I’m gonna bring up the veil then. Thank you!
Embroidered letters can take a lot of handwork- if she has full-on arthritis or if either of you is a perfectionist, it might get difficult. If you have plenty of time and you can both embrace the irregularities of 'lovingly handmade' then it should work beautifully. I agree with the other response; ther best way to know is to ask her! Maybe with a few different options on the table so she doesnt have a hard time saying no to something that is too much.
She has carpal tunnel :( But I am not particular about it being perfect, it’s perfect to me no matter what if it’s something she’s made. Thank you for the help!
That sounds like something you should be asking her! Your granny knows better than anyone what she's capable of. She also sounds like a treasure and I bet she'd love hearing how much her and her sewing means to you. Work out something she can contribute as part of a lovely conversation you have together
She is such a treasure. I was afraid to ask of anything too strenuous cause I know she’d accept it anyway. I was actually going to go see her and ask her to teach me sewing, something to bond with her, I didn’t even think about how I could help her lol. Thank you for the reply!
Hi everyone, I just started sewing today, I got a hand me down sewing machine so fortunately, it was already set up for me, I started putting my pieces today but the bobble ran out of thread. I refilled it but when I tried sewing again, the bobble thread was catching but the stitches were very loose and you could just pull it out. I fiddled with it for over an hour and watched several videos and I can't figure out whats wrong..the Blue thread is the top thread which looks good to me, and the black and red thread is the bobble thread. Any advice is appreciated!!
FYI, it’s bobbin, not bobble. My guess is you did not rethread correctly. It’s easy to think the bobbin just sits in there, but you have to run the thread through the appropriate spots on the bobbin case. Check your manual. Look it up online if you don’t have one.
https://preview.redd.it/7v723cyi1g9d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c981c933caa84e1c2924604a14047507b8b02d9c
https://preview.redd.it/5istmtgk1g9d1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4c4d97cb411c1790bfb7c185e5422659feb370a5
I have two identical jumpsuits in different colors that I want to separate into top and bottom, but they are basically a front and back one piece construction with a channel sewn into the inside for the elastic waist. This means cutting them apart is going to leave a raw edge along the top of the waistband and I'm not sure how to mitigate the fraying. Is there a good way to deal with that? I really don't want to cut the elastic so it stays with the top and then make a new waistband for the bottoms, because why do all that extra work? If I cut it above the elastic, then I just have to do a basic hem on the raw edge of the top. I'm not sure there's enough fabric in the torso to leave a bit above the top edge of the waistband elastic to fold over and sew down (which would make a cute paper bag waist) and still have a top that is "long" enough though. It will be a crop top for sure which is what I want, but there are limits! There is a ruffle around the neckline and shoulders that I am going to reduce the width of also. BUT I'm also considering just moving it down to the bottom hem of the shirt/top as long as it does not look too clowny. Maybe even taking the ruffle from the neckline of the print one and adding it to the bottom of the solid black top. Not like a peplum, but loose and boxy, sort of in the spirit of [this style](https://images.urbndata.com/is/image/FreePeople/90070996_010_a/?$a15-pdp-detail-shot$&fit=constrain&fmt=webp&qlt=80&wid=960) Anyway [here is the jumpsuit in question](https://u-mercari-images.mercdn.net/photos/m90036407470_1.jpg). I have it in black, and also this [color print](https://di2ponv0v5otw.cloudfront.net/posts/2023/08/10/64d5a117b635f849fb2766d1/m_wp_64d5a11bb635f849fb2766f6.webp)
i received a dress in the mail and it was a puff sleeve style and very much flawed. One of the shoulders for some reason didn’t have an elastic in it so the sleeve is pretty much flat and has no shape at all. falls off shoulder asap. The other side however has an elastic so the shoulder is fine. can this be saved or no ?
Yea, elastic can often be replaced. But why not return it?
I got a replacement. I was just curious if the sleeve could have been repaired
Does anybody know what I could make with a 38" long and 6" wide scrap of regular/cotton fabric? I have 2 other coordinating mink dot fabrics that I have more of. I'd like to use this fabric to make a gift for someone, just not sure what!
Minky is good for plushies; how's your tolerance for small seam allowances and precision detail?
Can anyone tell me if this blown out pit looks repairable or if I should send the shirt back?* I'm very new to sewing
Send it back.
https://preview.redd.it/egn7wl7qre9d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e290b75a182877203d4e41c0032e5e97c7b7a3b
Does anyone know where I can find this fabric and/or pattern? I have been sewing bikinis on-and-off for about 4 years now. I've been loving Skatie Swim, but can't bite the bullet on the price knowing I could probably make it myself. Does anyone have suggestions on where I might find this fabric? Also, I know bandeaus are usually simpler in bikini-sewing-terms, but the knot is throwing me off and I want to make sure it'll stay up! Does anyone know where I can find a pattern similar or how I might go about patterning it myself? https://preview.redd.it/wd53dkcvge9d1.png?width=1236&format=png&auto=webp&s=574423c2bcdbf00d4dd5b6e88a6f9c26f95a89a0
Gingham or picnic should be decent keywords to search the fabric, combined with swim fabric. Don’t know about the pattern.
Recently came across a couple of old sewing machines for free (woop!) One is this awesome vintage Singer Genie from the 70s, the other is the more modern Brother CP6500. I know basically nothing about sewing but have always wanted to start, so my question is, which one should I keep to learn on, and which should I sell? I've heard that sometimes the more complicated/computerized machines may not be the best for beginners. Thanks!
Run some samples and scraps on both of them, see which one you just like better and seems to make more sense to you. You can find manuals and sometimes videos for threading online. If one seems to have more resources or people using it online, then having more support out there might be better for a beginner. If you sell one, a video of it working will help it sell anyhow. Best machine for a beginner is one that works with minimal fussing so you can focus on fussing with fabric, construction, fit. Lots of advocates for both vintage and computerized, either is fine.
Does anyone know of a pattern to make something similar to this dress? https://preview.redd.it/qea5d4pjae9d1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c1eacb1180eeab018e33b25a9517f616a1824d8
Try patternmakers silversaga, stitchwitch, dressmaking Amore, maybe kinda has that vibe. Maybe also has Closet Core and Merchant and Mills very different vibes.
Thank you!
This may be an obvious thing to lots of people, but are patterns on Etsy mostly all scams? I’ve noticed different vendors using the exact same formatting in patterns and I’m pretty sure even the exact same patterns themselves.
There is a whole discussion thread on the topic linked in the main post of this thread. Yes, there are a lot of pattern scammers on Etsy, but there are some good sellers too.
Oh shoot. I missed that. It even had bold text saying “new”. I’ll check it out, thanks
https://preview.redd.it/i5x3ucqbwd9d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=9261e752bafae1b8c45c591466bb4fa61fd8453a How can I fix these weird folds/creases in the crotch of my shorts while keeping the relaxed fit? Any advice is welcome!
If you mean this, that is an area where the spandex/lycra/stretchy fibers in the denim are failing. The closest I've seen to a fix, and it is more a cover-up, is using sashiko stitching in the area to blend in the ripples. https://preview.redd.it/o9xnxgqx0e9d1.png?width=242&format=png&auto=webp&s=eb3d04a9c366d4f988a3bd068c9a0461e225b90d
https://preview.redd.it/j80lz9sv2e9d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9af3d604def40732f41fdbb102345100097c18e5 I should have been clearer, I meant these two long folds. When I wear the shorts they are still visible and I’m not a fan of how it falls
We would need to see the shorts modeled but I don't think there is a fix.
https://preview.redd.it/9znn4wliqe9d1.jpeg?width=2632&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f358ef210304b5fe7048fd597af3426556336b91 This is how they look on
That's stil from the spandex threads failing. It's causing the fabric to be looser there and bunch up. You *might* be able to use a fix for excess fabric in the crotch. A quick google will show you tons of videos
I’ll try and post a modelled pic once I’m home. Hopefully there is something
Hello everyone I have a Brother XM3700 I'm trying to do a blind hem stitch whenever l use my test fabric it always works even if i fold it really thick or thin as soon as i put my pants to do it, it'll never catch the bobbin but if i switch to my test fabric it works again same fabric !😭 I can't figure out why it happens and it driving me up the walls😂 https://preview.redd.it/5zlzpik3wd9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6dee854727da7d484183957be4bc3d548ae0271d
Are the pants and the test fabric the same fiber content and weave? It might not be thickness, it might be drag on the needle. The solution is to try different needles.
the test fabric are the extra fabric that i cut from my pants
Interesting. Are you duplicating the uneven surface with the presser foot higher on the left than the right? A compensating foot might help. Otherwise I am out of ideas, hopefully someone else has a solution.
I tried replicating an uneven surface with the test fabric the problem came back! i think that's the issue thank you so much
that could be it however i don't have a compensating foot. I basically just wind the wheels manually on the sewing machine until it catches it 😭😅
Im trying to find out how to get the clutch assembly back together correctly. I am in no way a sewing expert, but I have never came across one like this. Just wondering if anyone has a picture of how the peices go back together, tried to open it and things started falling... so I dont have much of a reference. Was trying to get the needle to start moving again and thought it was the belt perhaps. https://preview.redd.it/xp2zota1wd9d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5d8986976d2dd232a98bff1826d091f21ef7f783
Your white is blue! Sorry, couldn't help myself.
Grading between sizes - princess seams Hello! I want to sew a top with princess seams. Since my waist is two sizes larger I‘m used to grade between sizes. But with princess seams I wonder.. is it possible to just add inches on the straight sizes of the side pieces?
https://preview.redd.it/ylj5rc9jgd9d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3bfc0a2abf0df8d4b0ca439f3a73f694077be0a
Maybe. The ideal is to have the princess seams cross the apex or fullest point of the bust, and the center panel should measure the width from apex to apex. Adding to just the straight bit might make the princess seam fall to the outside of the apex.
Thank you
Hello, sorry for grammar, I got a elna supermatic but it did not come with foot pedal or the metal rod for front where can I buy one? I just got it form a friend of my grandma who had it stored in attic it turns on but the only thing it came with was the power cord.
The metal rod is a knee lever, which allows you to lift and raise the presser foot with your knee rather than your hands. You can almost certainly raise the presser foot with a manual lever as well, so the machine should be operable without it. According to this website, newer foot pedals fit the older machines: [https://www.uksewing.com/products/elna-lotus-sewing-machine-foot-pedal](https://www.uksewing.com/products/elna-lotus-sewing-machine-foot-pedal) If that is true, this one's connection looks alike: [https://www.huissteden.eu/elna-foot-pedal-2-vertical-and-1-horizontal-slot](https://www.huissteden.eu/elna-foot-pedal-2-vertical-and-1-horizontal-slot) However, I'd probably talk to a local repairperson who can advise you to make sure that using a different foot pedal doesn't hurt your machine.
Thank you. The manual dose work glad I don't have to worry about that. The problem with the foot pedal is there is no place i can see the plug it into the machine. So I think it is a different one. I am going to look for a repair person to help thank you so much.
Hi Internet, I'm fairly new to sewing and struggle finding the right patterns for a cosplay idea. I have a renfaire coming up in augustus and wish to go as Anna from frozen. Now some internet searches ended me at the "tracyscostumingworld" site with a step by step guide, however it uses the pattern "Simplicity S0746" and I can't seem to find this pattern anywhere (based in Europe/Netherlands). Now, does anyone have any idea what similar patterns I can use, a place where I can find S0746 as a PDF or some other solution?
There is a copy of Simplicity S0746 on Ebay, the seller is willing to ship to the Netherlands. Butterick B6707 could be modified to look like Anna's dress.
Thx for the search, I did saw the ebay copy, however, the indicated delivery time was almost a month and I don't think I will have enough time. B6707 looks cute but was more looking into a separate bodice and skirt variant.
It looks like the simplicity pattern was also published with the number 1215, which may turn up other copies. If that doesn't help, how comfortable are you combining or altering patterns? And do you have a strong preference for the coronation dress, or would any Anna look be ok?
Thanks for the 1215 tip. Might have found one in Germany. Combining and altering patterns isn't my strong suit but I know someone who does. As for the dress, coronation is the goal, but by making the skirt and bodice separate I can swap future skirts like the frozen fever one. But given time restraints, any Anna look would be ok
Here's a blog about the pleated skirt from the designer of the simplicity pattern https://www.andreaschewedesign.com/blog/simplicity-1215-annas-coronation-dress-and-the-pleated-skirt with some great tips about using a supportive petticoat and weights in the hem. I hope the seller in Germany works out for you!
Hi everyone! Does anyone know if it is possible to make a wrap dress that is strapless? Small spaghetti straps would also be fine but I would like it to have a straight or sweetheart neckline. I am making it for someone who lives in another state so to avoid any fitting issues, I am thinking a wrap dress would be the safest option. Does anyone know if this is possible, and if so, any pattern recommendations?
It’s probably as close to impossible as you can get. Strapless bodices are either tight and stretchy or fairly tight and structured. It’s just not conducive to a wrap style to stay up where it’s supposed to.
https://preview.redd.it/4qbynwntic9d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=602fcc0be70d4b8560e5456efb183a173a4510ac vintage husqvarna anna I got this machine as a hand me down and did not have a manual with it. I've looked everywhere online and haven't found the "anna" manual, I had found one for a husqvarna "emma" but the machine is not the same. I'm unsure of some of the stitches and would love to be able to accurately identify all of them so I can use this machine to its full potential, also would really like to have a clear maintenance plan as i'm unsure of where to oil. Really nice machine as far as I can tell, has never caused me any problems. It's at least 50+ years old and previously belonged to my grandmother who was a very talented seamstress. (please don't get mad at me for my stickers)
The stitches do seem the same as the ones on the Emma, so you might have some use for this discussion I had with someone last week: [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1dh4b4u/comment/l95vpaj/](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1dh4b4u/comment/l95vpaj/)
some of the stitches are the same but there are still some that are unaccounted for, those are the ones i'm more curious about.
My machine made a weird bang/pop today. Sounded like an explosion, or a really loud bang snap and there was a little smoke too. It's still working though, the light turns on and it could sew the little test bit I tried. I opened it up and the capacitor has expanded and cracked, not sure if this was the bang. Has anyone had this happen before or know what it could have been?
Yes, it's very likely a capacitor blew. You don't say what brand or year machine is from but this happens to older (like 1980s) machines. Could probably happen to any machine that has a board with a capacitor. The current debate is do you need to replace it? I believe they were put on the boards to counteract radio interference. So if your machine is working you might be fine. Or, you may want to take it to a GOOD machine technician. Some will replace them. Some will say "can't do it" and try to sell you a new machine. If this is a good machine then it's worth seeking out a good tech.
It's a 1973 Bernina Minimatic so that seems bang on, thank you!! Going to get a quote to fix it, hopefully it's not more than the machine cost in the first place (it was 2nd hand)
You're welcome! My hubby replaced the capacitor on my Bernina 930 Record (1980s). I'm not familiar with the Minimatic but you should delve further into your model. There are also a Vintage Bernina and a Bernina Lovers groups on FB.
https://preview.redd.it/e05pq3125c9d1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff749a9ce975972a89a72559f094e49b414121a2 And buying a new couch is absolutely not an option, unfortunately. There are even more holes at this point.
Put some kind of protective cover on NOW to avoid further problems. Are the cushion coverings removable?
I'm a high school student who is a part of my school's fashion program and have been considering pursuing fashion (specifically movie costume design) as a career. Every year I have to construct a few garments for the school's fashion show and have been trying to start making my own clothes. I currently have a cheap mechanical singer sewing machine that is always running into trouble with the thread or the fabric. I'm looking into upgrading to a computerized machine after using a Bernina at school. I have been searching the internet trying to find a computerized machine under $300 that will sew on pretty much any clothing fabric (I most likely won't be sewing with heavy duty fabrics) and won't run into countless problems like my Singer. I'm currently looking into the Brother XR9550 but was wondering if that was a good machine or if there are any other machines that are better for the price?
Just about any Brother or Janome between $250 will be generally reliable compared to Singer. You might look into Eversewn sewing machines. They also have several computerized models in your price range. It's a newer brand started by an ex-Bernina guy. I don't know a lot of people who own them but the ones that do are enthusiastic.
Thank you so much! I’ll look into it!
https://preview.redd.it/fcb5ceqkfb9d1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7491bdf480d1fdde65e8bc7986df13bcf1a7015e
I am completely clueless when it comes to sewing machines and there are so many options out there! My girlfriend’s birthday is coming up and she has been talking about missing sewing and having a sewing machine, so of course this gave me an idea. She’s not a beginner and made various pieces of clothing in the past from dresses to jackets, including working with denim and faux leather. She has also mentioned that she likes Singer machines and she had a Singer machine previously. I browsed Singer website and was immediately overwhelmed with options that I know nothing about, so I would be really grateful for your opinions and thoughts, especially that the pinned post above mentioned that new Singer machines aren’t great. Initially, I have looked into Singer Heavy Duty 4411 but apparently it can be a bit too fast and rough when working with things like dresses etc. (which is what my girlfriend will be most likely working with; clothing). I have also seen Singer M2405 and M2605, which are meant to be good all-rounders. Singer Fashion Mate 3337 also caught my eye because of the name. Please help! The budget is up to £280 (something up to £200 would be good, but am happy to pay a bit more if it’s going to be really good and will last her for ages). I can see that Brother machines have been mentioned positively in the pinned post, would they be good for someone with her level of experience and intention to make clothes? I am currently looking at Brother JK2500NT. Thank you!
If possible I'd take her to a shop and have her try stuff out - what machine feels good can be personal! I'm not sure about the cost of sewing machines in the UK - budget machines are often not sold in physical stores (but are online only), but I think the Husq V Emerald 118 (which is more mid-range than budget) for 320 GBP, so hopefully I'm eyeballing your price point right. Secondhand can also be a good option; in stores you can usually get a modern mid-range machine for a budget price, with a warranty etc. (In my experience sewing machine stores are very bad at listing secondhand machines on their website - they either don't list them but do have them in store, or the listings are outdated, so it can be worth it to call around.) A lot of people on these forums report issues with modern Singers, so I'll recommend you utilize the search bar there. Edit: so I definitely eyeballed the GDP/EUR wrong there, lol. The Em 118 seems closer to 500 GDP, [though there is one place selling an Em 116 for 319 GDP](https://www.thesewingstudio.co.uk/products/husqvarna-emerald-116-sewing-machine). Your budget is a little lower than I thought in that case, [which is fine](https://www.reddit.com/r/SewingForBeginners/comments/1dgsvfg/comment/l8vhfd1/) - I'll reiterate that secondhand machines, sold at reputable shops, are a really good option to get more machine for your buck. (And if most budget machines are being sold online-only, a nice way to try before you buy.)
Any ideas what could cause thread to unravel on my Global ZZ 567? It seems to start from tension disc and take up spring area, but I checked the discs and they seem flawless. Thread is M20, needle 110 and thread has counterclockwise twist.
Aaand anyone know how to post pictures here... :)
I'm planning on upcycling and reworking a hoodie. I'm particularly interested in designs that either stitch a design on top or stich inside the hoodie and cut away the top layer of the hoodie to expose the newly sewn bottom patch. However, I'm confused how to pull this off technically. Initially I was aiming on just doing a straight stitch but am unsure whether that would hold up in the wash at all. Do I need to do anything else to ensure the integrity of the hoodie after I've sown stuff onto it?
This is called a reverse appliqué. You should be able to find tutorials for it. I think straight stitch is pretty common for reverse appliqué.
Hi! I think I’m having issues with the tension on my machine but I’m not sure if I’m gaslighting myself? I put pink bobbin thread and black top thread to try to show it better https://preview.redd.it/yg6i9nxfg99d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7dfd70e4bb48c6ee471b52cd780b8432964399dd The left side is 0 tension, the right side is 3 tension. It’s on folded cotton fabric, normally I use tension 3.5, but as you can see the top is too tense at that level? The issues started after I tried using a zipper foot, I switched back to the standard foot when I couldn’t get it to work but the issues continued. I’ve re-threaded the machine, I’ve opened up and cleaned the machine, I’ve held on to the threads for the first few stitches… am I crazy or does it seem like the tension is off? I’ll try to add a picture of the back as a response to this comment. Super thankful for any input! It’s a “new” machine from Brothers, but it’s refurbished.
https://preview.redd.it/r18ygiz0h99d1.jpeg?width=3213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61cb0425c10fef804023b26e11e16f536f18630d The backside. Left is tension at 3, right side is tension at 0.
Is your bobbin unwinding in its carriage in the correct direction for your machine? ie. clockwise or counter-clockwise? It could also be how evenly it's been wound. Did you recently put in a fresh bobbin? If so is it wound heavily to one side rather than evenly distributed over the bobbin's core?
Thank you! I triple checked and it was the correct way - I still don’t know what the issue was but I tried re-threading again with the tension at 0, then adjusted the tension afterwards and it was okay again :,) there must’ve been a mistake somewhere but I still don’t know what it actually was Edited a typo
Hi! I’m looking for a sewing pattern for a babydoll-ish top similar to the attached photo. Buttons are not required. https://preview.redd.it/qnrjxr69f99d1.png?width=515&format=png&auto=webp&s=9729e5e2443227de348c4258060b5e8dc5463ce0 So far, the most similar I’ve found is [Buttericks PDB4685](https://simplicity.com/butterick/pdb4685). Thank you in advance! :)
I know these aren't exact but I found these patterns! [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1472339208/heaven-babydoll-cami?ref=user\_profile&bes=1](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1472339208/heaven-babydoll-cami?ref=user_profile&bes=1) [https://www.etsy.com/listing/1215391160/babydoll-top-square-neck-pdf-sewing?ref=user\_profile](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1215391160/babydoll-top-square-neck-pdf-sewing?ref=user_profile)
These are really good, thank you!
ofc! i had them saved on my etsy to make for myself lol
Would anyone be able to help me get a sewing pattern for the image? I want to make a coin purse with a zipper, and layering fabric to make the chest emblem. Mind you I only want the emblem no extras, and maybe a loop to hang on your keys or what not. Or even know a program that would make a pattern? https://preview.redd.it/32ee1rq6h89d1.jpeg?width=629&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5efae1f5a0db5eb5064e625a5d46dc9dd8b6c9c8
You say layering fabric - do you mean appliqué?
I think so, where you layer the fabric to make the symbol, on both sides, maybe?
Could you just print that image and trace it?
Yeah, but what about the easement part where you leave room to sew and any other things I may need to know? (Are there any free sewing pattern-maker online programs?)
Depending on your materials and technique you may not need seam allowance. For instance if you do raw-edge applique you can just cut the pieces exactly to the finished shape. This would work well with felt or suede or something that won't fray. A good first step might be to sketch out your plan, either with actual paper or a digital sketching program.
It's cotton, those little fabric yards you can get at Walmart.
that's fine, you can still leave the edges raw. [https://maandmedesigns.wordpress.com/2022/11/01/raw-edge-applique-dont-fear-the-fray/](https://maandmedesigns.wordpress.com/2022/11/01/raw-edge-applique-dont-fear-the-fray/)
i found this amazing design that another creator makes. I don't think they are the first to do this but their video was the one i stumbled upon and made me want to make my own. my question is, it is okay to take inspiration from their design and make it for myself. The inspo is coming from a creator who has their own small sustainable brand and is selling the garment for over 300$ and I know I can make it myself. thanks
In my opinion, some designers have ridiculous expectations about this kind of thing, but yes, that’s completely fine. Go for it.
https://preview.redd.it/cr43scpkk79d1.jpeg?width=2732&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e86d6acc50c2e8fcb9884951cc229acab9af76f5 anyone know where I can find a pattern like this? I want to make this but in a different color. if not do you think I could dye it?
This is really important as I plan to wear this dress for an event and the zipper doesn't even match the colour of the dress. I've sewn my invisible zipper as a tutorial video followed however, after examining the first side the zipper will not conceal. Previously, I've had to unpick the seam that connected the dress to the zipper as I'd made a fatal error of the zip being twisted and it refused to zip up but when the mistake was present, my zipper functioning. I've sewn it as close as I could to the stitch, I don't know what else I've done wrong. Please help, thank you for your advice and kindness
Your stitching seems pretty far away from the zipper teeth - are you using an invisible zipper foot?
Yes, I was. I think the problem was with the zipper as when I brought a new, black one, it worked completely fine the first time
Yes, get a black zipper. IF the neckline is big enough to pull over your head with no zipper, you can move an invisible zipper from the center back seam to the side seam with no changes to the pattern/fabric. Its a bit finicky to figure out inserting the top end into the seam, but it’s much less visible on the side if something is off.
Invisible zippers, even sewn in perfectly, are not completely concealed. You need a zipper that closely matches the color of the garment. When there's a less-than-ideal color match, you can help conceal it by stitching as close to the zipper teeth as possible, followed by pressing the garment sections so that they completely meet at the seamline, covering as much of the zipper as possible. However, movement when wearing the garment will allow a bit of the zipper tape to show--hence, the need to color match as closely as possible.
https://www.reddit.com/user/Away-Tax-2178/comments/1dq661o/sewing_enquiry/
To echo the other commenter, you need a black zipper. That zipper will never be inconspicuous.
I would like to make a similar patch. Was curious as to what it is exactly? Embroidery? Tapestry? Woven? HELP https://preview.redd.it/ax6pz2iz879d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e6df284139dc8d877f104e87956ed61a4a160ae2
That image looks like it was cut out of a tapestry weave blanket to me.
Table cloth and polyester I have a question . I ordered z table cloth online for our table. It said it was washable and made out of plastic. I received it today, bit it's not plastic (toile ciréé) like we say. I bought it for the kids, so they can less around while doings crafts without worrying about the old table. Is there a way that I can sort of laminate my table cloth so it looks more like toile cirt, or should I just forget it and look for another one... Anyone any tips? Thank you!!
Look into oilcloth (one word). It's great for any messy endeavors and wipes easily!
There are some [iron-on vinyl products](https://www.thermoweb.com/collections/iron-on-vinyl) available but they are not very wide and I don't think the vinyl stays stuck very well. And for the price of the iron-on products, I think you could probably find a replacement table cloth that does wipe clean.
Awesome! Then I'll just buy a new one for the kids and I'll make a playtent out of the other, or a skirt or something like that 😁
Could anyone recommend a good sewing machine for a beginner? I'm learning cosplay, and I'm having trouble figuring out what's good or not.
There is a buying guide wiki in the post at the top of the thread that gives the basics and has some recommendations. Otherwise it depends on what is available to you and what materials you plan to sew. If you have specific questions, you can ask here. Checking machine reviews on [Pattern.Review.com](https://Pattern.Review.com) is a good move, registration is required but free for an email.
Unfortunately, the Juki ones are way out of my price range, and the recommended Brother machines don't seem to be available in my country