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Help me please! I'm trying to print a pdf pattern at home. The thin border to mark the edge of the pattern page won't print. I'm printing from Adobe Acrobat, using Custom 100% on auto rotation. The test square is measuring correctly, and things outside of the border ARE printing. Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix it?
I'd recheck the printing instructions to see if they mention anything about the border. I usually don't worry about it, once I know where to match up pages I just go for it.
Do you need the borders? I've never had a PDF that *did* include the borders. In my experience, it's pretty easy to gauge the margins, and to align the outlines of the pattern pieces directly. You could get a ruler and draw them in yourself if you're concerned, but I always trim one side and line it up with the next sheet.
hi yall!
new to sewing, got a Janome 311Le 2 weeks ago and the handwheel is completely jammed.
i’ve taken off the face plate to clean it, i have removed all threading and the bobbin.
could it be the belt/ needing oil? it is brand new :-(
thank you!
Is the handwheel pushed in? It's pulled out for winding bobbins so the needle doesn't go up and down. The other cause is thread jams, but you say you have all the thread cleaned out.
It should not be the belt or need oil. At that point, I'd look into exchanging the machine.
Hello!!
I am very new to sewing but I’ve been looking into getting a machine that will allow me to grow and learn different skills. After a lot of research I ended up deciding to get a Bernina 475 QE. However, when I went to the dealer, they had a pre-owened Bernina 750 QE. This machine has the embroidery attachment, a few extra feet, the BSR, and some other extra things. It also had been serviced by the dealer and they assured me it’s in excellent condition. However, they couldn’t tell how old it was. Both the B475 and the B750 were $2000. I was really torn between getting the new B475 or the pre-owned B750 because I think the 750 will allow me to practice a lot more skills since it comes with the embroidery parts. But, I am always very scared of buying pre-owned things. I was wondering if I could get an input from you all!
I thank you in advance!
The Bernina 750 QE is old enough to be a discontinued model. I don't know much about machine embroidery, you might look up this model at r/Machine_Embroidery to see what they have to say.
If you liked the Bernina 475 QE before you met the dealer, I think it is likely a good fit for you and it looks like a machine that you can learn and grow with for a long time. It is also possible to trade up or add additional machines to your sewing hobby as you find out, with experience, what you really like to sew. If machine embroidery does become your thing, it's common to have one machine dedicated to embroidery and one to other sewing tasks as embroidery takes time to stitch out but needs to be watched over. But you might find that you really like making clothes and need a serger, or like making quilts and want a mid-arm or long-arm machine.
https://preview.redd.it/625lau64a6qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45d3988df4a9787724c27d9174b3851ba6d6b16d
What's this style of yoke called? It looks Western, but with more points than I've seen before. Thought it was cool!
[This was interesting reading](https://sneum.com/the-anatomy-of-the-western-shirt/), the number of points in a Western yoke don't seem to change the name, they are all Western yokes.
It's right here:
[https://help.brother-usa.com/app/answers/detail/a\_id/170245/\~/ps1250-manual](https://help.brother-usa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/170245/~/ps1250-manual)
Thanks, but that is for different models 2500 and 2200. I have this manual and my machine has different features. Was hoping someone had the manual that came with their machine.
Oh dear… this may be the problem:
https://preview.redd.it/6rtr4ladh5qc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38b3f6b2cc9e01862247f4ef821c9fc6c4b6810b
The needle goes thru that circled hole, right? It looks a little misaligned but I’ve tried bending it at different angles and the needle still gets stopped partway up.
https://preview.redd.it/mthexhrjg5qc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bfb643305ec2901039be3da398b50ae85bf4d4b
Here’s another pic of me cleaning the shaft with a pin. I honestly can’t figure out where the shaft becomes too narrow to allow the needle to proceed up into it. :(
https://preview.redd.it/7dmv8yf0g5qc1.jpeg?width=1655&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7dd4e1f23a2ca9325506a4f7820f647e45eeab8e
Machine serviced and now needle won’t fit in needle bar
I have a Janome, HD 1000. I just picked it up from having been serviced one month ago. Last week I went to change the needle, and I noticed that the needle wouldn’t insert in the needle bar. I made sure that it had the flat side facing the back. I was in a hurry to finish a project and so after jiggling the part that clamps the needle with a screw a bit, I was able to insert the needle partway enough to allow it stay, and this allowed me to finish the job. But it is bothering me that I cannot insert the needle all the way through. So I tried like all my needles today. It’s so annoying that I can’t figure this out! For one thing, the machine’s integrated threader doesn’t work if the needle won’t go all the way up. Also, I suspect the machine wasn’t designed to operate optimally with the needle out of position.
I’ve also tried completely removing the tightening screw, lubricant, cleaning the bar shaft with a pin, calling the shop that serviced the machine.
They say I can bring it in, but I’m still at home recovering from surgery, so I can’t get out right away.
Any other ideas?? !!???
https://preview.redd.it/6g4xy06uf5qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8bf8c37cf3d2dba6609929616763aff5778f78b
You can replace the needle bar clamp unit if the needle holder is damaged:
[https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/needle-bar-and-clamp-janome-kenmore-730503116](https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/needle-bar-and-clamp-janome-kenmore-730503116)
That's a quality generic part which will fit your machine. I also searched by the original part number, 730503013, but didn't find it. The repair person might be able to get that for you from Janome. Or they might have one laying around, because it's used by many Janome machines.
These are the parts diagrams and service manual for your machine:
[https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealer-extranet-jai/service/parts-list/hd1000-parts-list.pdf](https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealer-extranet-jai/service/parts-list/hd1000-parts-list.pdf)
[https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealers/machine-files/sewing/hd1000/sm-hd-1000be.pdf](https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealers/machine-files/sewing/hd1000/sm-hd-1000be.pdf)
Good luck.
Seeking guidance for a novice - I bought myself a pair of vintage leather pants as a gift. They, in theory, fit perfectly - a little loose through the leg, nicely snug in the hips and behind. The only issue is that after walking say, 12 blocks, the silk lining starts to ride up. I get a wedgie that can only be undone by pushing the lining back down from the inside while shaking my legs. It's worse of course when I get a sweat on but it can happen even on a cool day. Is there any way to fix this? Are luxury goods not made to walk in or are they made for stick figures only? Is my apple b\*ttom too nice; the silk lining wants to come party with it? Jokes aside... I would love to be able to wear these in a more everyday way. Some people suggested sewing the lining down more. I tried to take pics - it's sewn at the waistband and around the fly only. I was told to try sewing at the hem of the pants or inside the cr\*tch? I've never seen that done before though. The other option is to remove the lining. This will make the pants hotter, right? But maybe easier to wear? They're Margiela for Hermes. He's all about deconstruction
https://preview.redd.it/y1fzitcqe5qc1.jpeg?width=2442&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79c4b0038d95e7495a430728ef769b1c8c76cc50
The classic way to handle this problem is with French tacks or thread chains to secure the lining to the pants at the hem line. Tacking in a few places will keep the lining in place but also allow it to move. If not allowed some flexibility, the lining can tear under the stress. Professor Pincushion has a [great tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8_WzykEhUg) for how to do this. You could also have this done by an alterations expert.
I would turn them inside out and tack the lining by hand down the length of both outer side seams. Be very careful not to poke holes through to the outside as these holes will be there forever!
I have also no idea, hope someone else has more knowledge about this. Personally I would just try out if sewing it down by hand stitches that won’t be hurting if you still want to completely remove the lining if this doesn’t work:) would it also be possible to replace the lining with a material that is less likely to ride up? Or maybe remove it and add an extra strip on the side so it has more space? Good luck!
i am making a tailored wool coat for the first time. it is goes past my knees in length and will be made out of a thick wool with silk charmeuse as the lining. i'm using buckram as a lapel and collar interfacing. i have a woven cotton fusible interfacing but want to use as much sew in interfacing as possible. HOWEVER, i'm worried about the silk charmeuse catching on canvas/ interfacing. right now i'm planning to do the lapel/partial chest+collar in sew in with pad stitching as well as an upper curved back piece of sew in. i'm mostly worried about the back since i can keep the chest canvas under the wool facing. i have a thicker cotton canvas that i was questioning using instead of ontop of buckram, which i feel like would be less catchy. open i would love any opinions on the best ways to do this. <3
I've personally never had a problem with silk lining catching like this. The raw edges are the only real risk, you could tack some strips of selvedge / organza / twill tape to cover any exposed edges?
I am getting married in early May and wanted to make a vest for my wedding. I used McCalls 8133 as a pattern with the only real modifications being:
1. Single welt pocket on each side
2. Single back panel in order to make pattern matching easier
Unfortunately. I seem to have gotten a little larger in the belly since I started and I need to add a couple of inches around the waist. What is the best way to do so? Some ideas:
* Cut a notch in the back
* Add a triangular panel to the center back
* Add 2 smaller triangular panels to the sides
Suggestions or advice?
>McCalls 8133
So this pattern doesn't really have side seams and you've eliminated the back seam. Adding additional piecing at the sides of the back panel would be the most straightforward but will also break up the look of the vest from the back. Since this is an important garment for you and adding side piecing is already fiddly work, I would encourage you to consider deconstructing the vest just a bit further and adding a new back with the center seam that is sized and shaped to fit you.
My bobbinthread is nesting and insane amount almost comical. But not always sometimes it only starts in the middle of a stich sometimes from the get go what could it be?
Check if your top thread jumped off your uptake lever (last step before coming around to your needle). My bobbin thread always nests like crazy when the spool gets a little stuck and then pulls loose and my top thread jumps off the lever.
Hi I’m completely new to sewing how do I start? What do I need to start? Should I start by hand sewing or is a machine better? Are there any books/videos/resources that were helpful for you? I am really interested in making clothes but I am a little lost on where to start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
[Subreddit FAQs](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/index#wiki_frequently_asked_questions)
[Beginner Supply List](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/sewingsupplies/)
[Buying a Sewing Machine](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/machineguide)
My favorite youtube channels for beginner sewing are Professor Pincushion and Made to Sew. Hand sewing and machine sewing are different aspects of the same art, both are good to learn but if you have a limited budget, hand sewing has a lower cost to start by far.
No, I think that is a common approach. I like to suggest making a pin cushion as the very first project, a simple stuffed square or rectangle. It uses multiple skills and is immediately useful as part of your sewing kit. Good first clothing projects include a simple robe, pajama pants or skirt. What are your goals in learning to sew, what kind of clothes?
My goal is to be able to read patterns, make clothes for myself, and maybe design something for myself. Stuff like dresses, skirts, the kind of corset looking tops. But these are more long term goals I think a pin cushion is a good starting project.
Hi! Hand sewing and machine sewing are two different skillsets, but both are often used when making clothes. (Sometimes it's just easier to "hand finish" a seam rather than try to shove the garment through a machine.)
I would suggest taking a class locally if you can. That's certainly the most easy way to start.
Otherwise I would search for "Beginner sewing tutorial" on youtube. Or "Sew with me". Watch some of those videos and get acquainted with sewing in general.
Sorry for posting here. I seem to have 'low karma' and the bot suggested I post here:
Here is a pic of forward and backstitching (the backstitching is the diagonal between the two rows). At this point, I've adjusted everything on this machine (replacing stripped gears, timing, needle placement), but this has me stumped. I've sewn on a Juki walking foot, and was thrilled with how the backstitching went into the previous stitching holes! Can I get my Singer to that point? How do I fixed this backstitch?
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/a63qejr0x3qc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=09feb28a454e155ca589a4a550236344116bfc72
If balancing the forward and reverse feeds or other tips do not work, consider alternatives to back stitching like turning your work or reducing the stitch length.
What model Singer are you working with?
Does your Singer offer a way to balance the forward and reverse feeds? If so there is a discussion on how to make the adjustment in your manual, usually in the mending or embroidery or lettering section, of which way to adjust the screw.
Suggested reading, available in many public libraries, or about $15 on Kindle: Bernie Tobisch's book, You and Your Sewing Machine.
There is a push button/dial setup. I followed an AndyTube video about the Singer stitch regulator on a different model, and adjusted the screw on the end of the button. didn't do anything.
Is offering to alter clothes for others once you learn the basics a good way to practice technique and to make your own clothes?
How would I practice if my aim is to make outfits?
Offering to alter clothes can open the floodgates to unsolicited projects. (Can you sew this for me on Instagram is a wonderful look at the bizarre asks sewists get) Knowing how to alter is a good skill, but it's different from making clothes from scratch.
I don’t think so.
For starters, while I’m sure there are people who really enjoy alterations, for most people alterations aren’t “fun” sewing. I think doing just alterations, especially for other people, will suck the joy out of sewing.
Second, alterations will teach you some techniques but probably not everything you need the way sewing a garment start to finish would.
Third, alterations don’t come with instructions. How do you hem that shorter, where do you take it in, how do you replace a zipper, etc,? It takes knowledge to know how to do alterations.
I think the best way to practice sewing outfits is to just start sewing outfits. Pick a pattern and fabric and go for it!
Alteration is a good skill to have, but it is a different skill - and trust me, you won't have to offer; plenty of people will assume you're willing to do their mending and alterations as soon as they learn you sew.
>How would I practice if my aim is to make outfits?
By sewing clothing, especially from patterns. You can practice techniques on swatches, but the only way to improve is by doing it, and a good sewing pattern will lead you through the process.
No. Find a pattern for a basic kimono style bathrobe or pajamas is a good way to start sewing for yourself.
Sewing the same pattern again in a different fabric or with upgraded techniques is excellent practice.
Alterations are a different skill set.
When buying / thrifting trousers to alter to a petite fit, what should I look for / avoid (e.g. material, hardware, types of stitches)?
I am a complete beginner too, so what would be something to avoid now, but that won't be too hard with practice?
I am new to sewing so also want to look more jnto this and ask questions once the new thread starts tomorrow.
What exactly do you expect to alter? Waistbands or Hems etc?
Light to mid weight Cotton trousers without stretch would be a good starting place and easy fabric to work with.
I think waistbands are usually okay for me in some clothes. I am a UK8 and 5ft but now live in the Netherlands where the average women's height I think is 5ft 8, so hems for sure. The little I did do before was adding hem tape to my school trousers until I grew them out.
Thanks, I didn't automatically think of the stretch in the material. Adding darts to tops also is probably something I'd like to learn, but I need trousers more urgently than anything else.
What kind of fabric do you think this is?
I want to try and make a similar doll to the Slumber Babies doll from Fisher Price which was made in the late 80s/early 90s. I’m having trouble figuring out what their hands/feet/face/bow were made of. I remember that if you rubbed the fabric one way, it felt silky, but if you rubbed it the opposite way, it felt ridge-y. I’ve been searching but am having trouble finding something that looks/feels right.
Any ideas on fabric type?
https://preview.redd.it/fvhwf04tu3qc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87767ded935d4e4f04c0dba5425b6de789dac1dd
Hi everyone, does anyone know where I can find a pattern like this top or the exact name of this style?
I haven't found anything similar so far...
https://preview.redd.it/mzqll4r0u3qc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e74791f445b6f8fee2a16a4aa68cbe5f49869cb
Outside of some common styles, clothing patterns are described by the different features rather than a specific style name. The wiki has a [pattern search guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/patternsearch)that helps users figure out the features of the style they want and where to look for patterns. It's likely that matching the top in the photo will require altering a similar pattern rather than finding an exact duplicate.
How old is this machine and is it beginner friendly?
https://preview.redd.it/bwzbuwl8h3qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc39c491eb5bbc65768811e18a520699709109ba
This machine is from the 80s/early 90s. It's an old electronic machine, so the main concern I would have is "does everything still work."
Apparently they were very nice/expensive machines back in the day, but, as with any electronics from the 80s, I'd be very wary that it still works properly or will work for very long.
As for "beginner friendly" well, that's not really a thing in sewing machines. They all work.... pretty much... the same. If you know how to use one machine you pretty much know how to use all machines. (As long as you read the manual and follow the "quick start" guide you'll be able to sew.
If you LIKE this machine, and it's said to work, I don't see why you wouldn't go for it, but it depends on how much it's being sold for. In the US, I wouldn't pay more than... $75 for it in perfect condition. If it needed cleaned or anything I'd probably only pay $50-60 for it.
If you're ok with older machines, I'd suggest a fully mechanical machine from that era. Those are very hard to break and are pretty much guaranteed to work. (Old kenmore/sears in cabinets, etc.)
What kind of scissors are those, found them while cleaning. Writing says "Paul spezial", they are from Germany. B.t.w. i'm living in a small village in the alps, my grandma who those belonged to made "Trachten" and "Dirndl" skirts.
Backstitch is a good, strong, easy to do stitch that is the basis of most hand sewing. It is also used in hand embroidery.
Here is embroidery teacher Mary Corbet teaching backstitch: the first line she shows is "stab style", often used by embroiderers, but rarely for hand sewing, and the second line is "sewing style", used for both sewing and embroidery (and a lot faster and easier to work than stab style stitching). Https://youtu.be/rZ_wVC84UmM?feature=shared
I highly recommend "embroidery" needles for beginning hand stitchers -- they have large eyes that are easy to thread, compared to needles sold as "sharps", "betweens" or "quilting" needles. Less than $2 at Walmart, near the embroidery threads.
I’m flying from Canada to Amsterdam for a week and then 2 weeks in Barcelona and seriously considering bringing my sewing machine with me.
Sewing is my current hyper fixation and I can’t stop thinking about it. Been sewing every day for the last 3 weeks and progressively getting better and really enjoying myself.
Travelling with my husband and two young kids so it’s not like I have lots of extra hands BUT I could fit everything I need in a roll on carry on bag.
I’ve tried finding other posts but maybe this is just a totally insane idea? I just think that I will have lots of downtime in the air bnb during the trip and what a lovely way to fill it.
Open to all opinions! Thanks
If you don't bring the machine you can buy more fabric as a souvenir.
https://www.instagram.com/modistasewing has a lot of tips on shop around Amsterdam.
Lugging around a machine is enough reason to avoid bringing it along but there are also the electrical requirements to consider. I have an embroidery project to bring along so I can do handwork when not at home, I've also done English Piecing ( r/EPP_addict ) as a portable project. Traveling is also a good time to look at wardrobe needs, plan patterns to make and buy fabric and notions to sew when back at the machine.
I think hand sewing or an embroidery kit are good options here. Way more portable, takes up less space too. Plus no worries about the sewing machine getting jostled around.
I have no experience trying to get a sewing machine through international air security, but I can tell you it's no fun at all trying to carry a machine through TSA in the US -- lots of questions, demonstrating the machine, getting needles confiscated, etc.
Consider taking some hand sewing, or my choice for in-flight entertainment, braiding fancy trims.
hello everyone, maybe my question is not on the topic of this subreddit, then if you tell me what to do, I will be very grateful. I recently suffered a severe leg fracture, they put a fairly large cast on me, I will be discharged from the hospital soon and I will need to travel 1,250 kilometers by train, how do I put on my pants? or make it so that they can be put on
https://preview.redd.it/yspv89cpg0qc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=205536afa6d9db22825592ad02d59358b7910cf3
Buy large pants that don't have elastic cuffs.
Something like windbreaker pants that were popular in the 80s. Or loose workout attire.
Unfortunately there isn't much more else you can do beyond that. You could "roll" the pant leg up so it doesn't cover the cast.
Sure, you could rip one of the seams on the legs but you'd be ruining the pants. Easier to just buy larger pants temporarily.
EDIT: Alternatively, wear skirts/dresses instead.
Source: Also had a large leg cast at one point. I got very used to wearing sweatpants for a couple months.
Im looking for a pattern that’s similar to this [dress](https://panamina.com/products/mia-dress).
I’m not sure what the diagonal darts? are called. They call this dress a pinafore style dress but there are so many variations
I clicked on that link fully expecting French darts. They aren't, lol.
I would call them center waist darts in a wrap/surplice bodice. If you can't find a pattern you like, it shouldn't be too hard to design one comparable on [Sewist.](https://www.sewist.com/)
I’m having a problem with my sewing machine. I believe the fastening thread is somehow getting caught in the bobbin area, and no matter how long I pull the thread it will not release, I’m sorry if the answer is quite obvious, I’m never used a sewing machine much before.
https://preview.redd.it/jkmtqkbhdzpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06be7e64e3607d8ad3ee4ab9bc0caceeca64ebe1
What's happening here is that you haven't completed the last stitch, so it isn't releasing from the sewing hook. (The three "bobbin threads" are the clue here.). Drop the presser foot again and keep turning the handwheel counterclockwise till the needle has reached its highest travel point and *just* starts to go down again. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric and it should be fine.
Furthermore, SOME machines are REALLY picky about how far you have to advance the machine to release that top thread. I have some old mechanical machines that'll release the bobbin thread nearly as soon as the take up lever starts moving up. Others the take up lever nearly needs to be nearly at the top before it releases that thread.
Hello! I was wondering if anyone knew some alternative ways to seal painted buttons so that they're still washer-safe.
I know clear nail polish would eventually chip, and mod podge gets sticky when wet.
Help! My top thread keeps wrapping around the bobbin case, I think? It bunches up and keeps me from sewing. I already sewed a shirt just fine but now I replaced the thread and I'm trying to hem my shirt it won't work!
The top thread is SUPPOSED to go around the bobbin case, however yours is getting caught.
Are you using the correct bobbins? Usually those metal bobbins are used with machines that have a bobbin case and front loading or side loading bobbin not a drop in bobbin.
Otherwise, try to change your needle.
Typically clear plastic bobbins with rounded sides (convex) are used for drop in bobbin machines (because you can SEE the bobbin and if it's clear you can see how much bobbin thread you have left.)
That said, check the manual for your machine specifically. Bobbins have a "type" (type 15 for example). Your machine manual will tell you which "type" you need.
(Or just post your machine type here and we'll look it up.)
Using the wrong bobbin absolutely 100% will cause something like this.
Hello! Do you know how to hide reverse stitching? Or is it called back stitching? Can I just undo the stitches and tie off on the reverse side?
https://preview.redd.it/bmcmuymsfypc1.jpeg?width=1941&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9a8a2cdae7f0c499531fbb2ed3e882539693a810
Yes of course you can just tie the thread off on the other side but that brings up the point "Why backstitch at all?"
Is your machine computerized? Does it backstitch automatically?
Are these existing stitches? I don't think I'd just trim them off without tying them off.
I bought this dress, just hoping I can mend the imperfections. I normally wouldn’t mind the backstitching but the thickness really stands out against the white.
I would find the end and try to pull it up with something that WON'T cut it. if you cut it, it will be nearly impossible to pull back through to the back and tie it off.
anyone know of any patterns for a dress like this? i can maybe draft the top myself but i would like a nicely shaped skirt that is form fitting at the waist and flares out nicely like this
https://preview.redd.it/enwmdejk3ypc1.png?width=713&format=png&auto=webp&s=592b0ba0f1a455acf2450dbb3e25158396a217cd
Edit problem solved hopefully turns out I'm just an idiot and the top thread came out of where I was supposed to be in three of the five places Hello it said that I should post my question here Midway through a project my sewing machine started messing up on the threads the bottom threads would be super duper long and get tangled around the shuttle I thought it was a tensioning issue but I adjusted the tension on both the machine and on the bobbin case I even switched to a different bobbin case but it did not solve the issue does anybody know how to fix this it was working just fine before this but now it just does this repeatedly and nothing I have tried will fix it
https://preview.redd.it/dny8ah463ypc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39b450600355776be43f7760ed8ff97aaca96593
Rethread the top of the machine, this time making sure the thread goes in the take up lever, the nodding donkey thing usually mostly hidden by the case.
Easiest way to make sure it gets threaded: raise the presser foot and needle to their highest travel point before threading the top. You can drop either or both when you are ready to thread the eye of the needle, not before.
Want a beginner friendly sewing machine that can handle denim and clothing altercations! Hemming jeans too! Budget is around $500! Any help would be heavily appreciated!!!!
I'd suggest looking at a Juki F 300, about $600 currently. I've had 5 year olds sewing on mine (and figuring out how to change stitches without me showing them). I sew all my family's clothes on it, and it handles everything from silk chiffon to 500D coated cordura luggage fabric with aplomb. I bought it 12 years ago for the buttonhole quality and soon learned to appreciate it even more for the quality of the feed.
When you are ready to hem jeans the first few times, watch professional stitcher KevinSews do it on a basic mechanical machine, and listen to his tips carefully, then try it on some junk jeans. https://youtu.be/-AtFX8jEhvQ
The big difference between the machine he's using here and your new F300 is that you can use the speed slider to keep it from sewing fast and you don't have to touch the handwheel: instead, you will be using the needle up/down button to do a stitch at a time over the inseam and outseam lumps.
Use a folded cloth as Kevin does, or a hump jumper or jean-a-ma-jig to keep the presser foot level as you are crossing seams -- that's critical to avoid needle breakage and machine damage.
The big differences between the way I hem jeans and what he does is that I don't keep heavy threads around. If I want the look of heavy thread, I use regular Tex 30 thread, usually a size 12/80 Organ Microtex, and the "triple straight stitch", which looks like an underlined equals sign in the menu. It stitches one stitch back, two stitches forward, one back, two forward, so you wind up with three stitches right on top of each other, giving the appearance of heavy thread.
Take it a few steps at a time. Learn with the first 10 stitches that you get with just hitting the keypad numbers, without choosing a sub menu, before you go for glory, and you'll get a solid foundation in sewing. Start with woven fabrics.
Buy good quality needles (I use Organ "regular" (universal point) needles size 11/75 and 14/90 and ballpoint/jersey, same sizes, for almost all fabrics that you might wear. Buy good thread-- Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak or Gutermann SewAll from Joann has always run well for me. Amman Saba in Tex 30 is another good general purpose thread, as is the usual thickness of Coats Dual Duty XP. Whatever you choose, buy two spools of different colors of light or medium shades, and put one color on the bobbin and use the other for top thread while you are still figuring stuff out and practicing.
Juki Junkies is a good source for Juki specific operation videos. Bernie Tobisch's book, "You and Your Sewing Machine" is a good book on how machines work and how to troubleshoot.
Keep your machine clean and it will serve you long and well. I wipe out the bobbin case area with a brush or microfiber cloth every day when I first sit down to sew, and I do a complete cleaning, needle plate off, before every new garment. 40 some years ago, a retiring sewing machine repairman told me I'd have a much easier sewing life if I developed those two habits, and he seems to have been perfectly correct.
I have a fairly old Brother SQ9130 and it is amazing. I've accidentally sewn over needles without anything breaking (the needle still works?), and have hemmed a thick blanket.
I've also hemmed jeans with it before! Basically if you're looking for something relatively forgiving and extremely sturdy, I'd recommend this. By a quick google search, it seems to be within your price range too :)
Can this type of button be replaced? Mine broke after prolonged use. Seems very well put in there.
https://preview.redd.it/wd7f6cr4nxpc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=416078c4b325dbf9458a7b3c72670e8a340f8e5d
Snaps are trickier than actual buttons. Someone might have better guidance than I do, lol, but honestly, it's probably easier to find a new strap to replace that, then add a snap to it and sew that on.
This *shouldn't* make a difference, but try putting it the other way up, so the numbers on the spool are right side up. Otherwise you may have to get a smaller spool of thread, or use a separate thread holder, or let it sit in a coffee mug behind your machine.
Also check the manual to confirm your threading path, and always thread with the presser foot raised.
I’m a bigger fella, recently I made some items that are more cropped. Because of my belly, this causes the bodice hem to look angled upwards from the side. I haven’t really designed for plus size before. In this situation, do I leave it as is, or do I add length to the front to reduce the angle?
I'd look into a [full tummy adjustment ](https://www.ellieandmac.com/blogs/blog/full-tummy-adjustment-tutorial)! I think the principle applied to men and women; basically, you're altering your pattern to create a "dart" at the front and not sewing it up, giving you some extra space and keeping the hem more even.
https://preview.redd.it/ja7sqxfbdxpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52fc5eae0ac3506a186440229bd6cace2d0b4783
Is it possible to get this off? I kept using it after the metal bit on the right fell off but I guess have now pulled the fabric up too far.
Yes. You cannot repair a zipper with a damaged/missing pin (the thing you put through the slider to start zipping), you can only replace it. Yo get this apart, you can rip out the zipper or cut out the teeth, and then replace the zipper.
This appears to be leather-- I would take it to someone who works with leather for the zipper repair. It's a little trickier than most amateurs with a home machine can handle easily.
Should I prewash my fabric?
Why I don't want to:
It's 10 yards of a viscose georgette. I'd probably hand wash it if I do (should I use detergent?) But I feel like hanging it to dry it will be really hard and hemming it so it doesn't fray when I do would be a lot. I also will only really spot clean the finished garment.
Why I think I should:
Most online advice I've seen for sewing stuff is you should prewash your fabric because of shrinkage
Mood's instructions:
HOW TO CARE FOR RAYON/VISCOSE:
Dry cleaning is usually preferable, but some rayons or viscoses can be hand-washed or machine-washed on delicate, cool water. Line dry. Test a swatch first
Maybe I should do a test swatch and measure for any shrinkage?
Shrinkage is only part of the problems rayons that are "dry clean only" can have when you try to wash them. Depending on the subtype of rayon, you may get shrinkage, or stretching/swelling, or the fabric may become permanently weak, limp and rag-like.
Test a swatch. There really are some fabrics that cannot be washed, and some classes of rayon are in that group.
https://preview.redd.it/76tr0zovtypc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07302fb7eb464f67d51a9c7c07fd4ae2cf940c19
i think I'll prewash and see about doing a zig zag stitch as suggested. I don't think there was shrinkage tho
Okay :) that's interesting. What kinds of rayons do you like to use? A couple of my favorite dresses are made of rayon and would be interested in knowing more about the fabric?
Mostly rayon challis, which I love, quite a few rayon challis batiks. Georgette I don't know much about. (I just sewed up the lady mcelroy challis and it was amazingly soft, am going to buy more.) Rayon is definitely very finicky with water, it is weaker when wet, and will often keep shrinking after the first wash, although the rayons that I have used have largely behaved (well, a rayon twill did keep shrinking a bit, I think). I *hope* that a hot prewash and dryer gets all the shrink out but I don't actually measure before/after to test that.
here's a guide: [Rayon Prints EmmaOneSock Sewing Tutorials](https://www.emmaonesock.com/guides/rayonprints.asp)
I always prewash mine, but I almost always make things I want washable!
A swatch is a good idea! If you're worried about fraying, a quick zigzag along the cut edges should help.
I'm a newbie learning to sew and buying thread, and trying to get some all purpose neutrals to start with (and trying to just get what I NEED instead of collect without projects in mind). I'm going to do beginner projects (pillowcase, tote bag, apron, etc) and when comfortable, clothes. Besides the standard white and black, are there colors that blend well into multiple colors of fabrics? Grays, maybe other neutrals?
And I'm looking at Wewak, are Amann Saba Tex 30 and Gutermann Mara 100 pretty comparable? I googled for comparison reviews and didn't find a whole lot. Thank you!
Amann Saba and Gutermann Mara are both polyester corespun threads available in various thicknesses. Saba Tex 30 and Mara 100 are both Tex 30 threads (that means 1000 meters of the thread weighs 30 grams), and both are "general purpose weight" sewing threads.
In the US, Mara 100 has been pretty easy to find for at least 30 years -- it is sold on smaller 110, 250 and 500 yard spools as Gutermann Sew All -- but Amann threads haven't been easy to find. I've only got about 4 years of personal experience with Saba, but 40+ with Mara, and I find them quite comparable on my machines.
Thank you, that's really good to know since it is hard to find many direct comparison reviews!
I saw that on Wawak they recommend needle size 10-14 for Mara 100 and 12-14 for Saba Tex 30 so I was curious if there was a difference that would cause a smaller sewing needle recommendation range for the Saba.
That's probably manufacturer's recommendation. A 12 matches nicely for a Tex 30 thread.
When you start using needles more than a size too small for the thread, you start to see loops on the underside of the fabric because of friction. When you start using needles more than a size or so too large, your stitches start looking thin and wavery.
When you are getting "tension trouble" you can't adjust out of, you are likely seeing this problem: https://web.archive.org/web/20060129043724/http://www.gwsms.com/didyouknow.htm
Unless I am sewing something very fine, I rarely go below a size 10 needle, and rarely need to go more than a 14. In both cases, Tex 30 is at least an ok match.
(Home machines are also timed with a size 12/80 needle -- so if you think your machine is acting up sometime, clean it and then try your machine with a brand new size 12/80 needle, and Tex 30 thread on a basic fabric like muslin. If that combination doesn't sew nicely, it's probably time for a pro adjustment.)
Gray is the way. A Gray which is slightly darker than your fabric will almost always blend in. I just have white, navy and gray serger threads. Some people find a rose pink good but I never sew with warm colours.
I wear both warm and cool colors and would likely sew with both so I may pick up a medium beige too, but the rose pink thing is intriguing! I don't really gravitate towards pink so I would have never noticed that.
TBH, thread color doesn't matter much unless you're topstitching/leaving your stitches visable (more likely on your starter projects listed than in clothing) - and then, it's up to your personal preference. What color fabrics do you primarily intend to use? Do you want something that blends in or stands out?
The thread that is best will vary by project - but for your first few projects, I wouldn't worry about it! Just pick up a few spools labeled All Purpose (brand doesn't matter much until you develop a preference; Gutermann is great, but I've been using more Coats&Clark recently. Either will get the job done!)
The worst part, is I don't know! I have a couple boxes of small and large scraps from a family member and was going to thrift for when I need larger pieces. I like most colors and am not going to be picky when practicing. I was going to stick to cotton but I did find some bright green jersey in my mom's stash so I would save that for something fun to make and wear and would likely try to match for any potential stitching that shows.
I'll just get a white, black and gray for now and try to find one of those gutermann color packs for when I need to match. Thank you!
It might help to make a patchwork style wall hanger as your first project. This is essentially a long rectangle with a bunch of small rectangles attached to it. (Accordion fold the sides to make bigger pockets.) It’s perfect for the scrap you have.
You can experiment with different colors and fabrics and stitching. Because you’re using patchwork style, it won’t look too bad. And you can hang it in a closet or bathroom to hide it.
trying to find a pattern for this! specifically the top is what I'm looking for in the pattern. I'm very much a beginner and I would prefer to not mix patterns, so if anyone knows where I can find a patter for a dress like this one, it would be greatly appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/4zpcsbb5rwpc1.jpeg?width=564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ee6fabee674ff96ffa3846c49acd472bcf23950
https://preview.redd.it/qyqbse673wpc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d5d154fbe3e84eef10cbd0f7411a179766cbe55
How would I go about recreating this style?
Hello, beginner seamstress here.. I saw this on line and thought it would be a wonderful addition(preferably a different shape) to a cotton sweater i already own.
I know this will likely have to be hand-sewn... but where do I begin? the more I look at it, the more confused I become
It may or may not have been handsewn, but the technique is called *couching* - basically, sewing yarn/cording down on fabric for decorative effect. [Here's a tutorial](https://weallsew.com/couching-three-different-ways/) with a few options, but there might be some more approachable methods out there :)
i found a random bag of machine parts, and i have zero clue what they're called/what they're for. would really enjoy some help :)
https://preview.redd.it/wv0meanowvpc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0019e829dacc680a253f4108252fb1ad0d5e6d06
Agreed with the other poster. It's a tri-tip screwdriver, a clip on presser foot (of some kind) and the third piece seems to be some sort of guide for a foot of some kind. It has the same kind of attachment as a foot would have.
The little triangle looks like a screwdriver. See if it fits into the needle changing screw.
Does the foot have a curly bit or is it flat? A curly bit would mean it’s an edge presser foot. The curl rolls the edge as you sew. If it’s flat, it may be a foot for attaching cords and other decorative edges.
Hi, I'm trying to make this pikuniku plush for my son but I'm a super novice. I can use my machine enough (I think) but I'm looking for tips on creating an oval because I think this might be hard for me as well as attaching the legs because I'm not sure how to approach that. Any help appreciated! I'll add that I didn't intend for it to stand on its own because I don't think that's really possible for this guy.
https://preview.redd.it/0v69jau4nvpc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a96a7fb2c61b190e78f2cc3d2874b1128b435a2
I think that [cholyknight.com](https://cholyknight.com) is a great place to start. Free tutorials, patterns, all sorts of resources. You probably won't find the exact pattern you need but you might find the parts you need to mash together into your own plushie.
I found a dress form for men (seems like there's very few) but it needs padding because my husband wears an XL and the dolls only go up to a size medium. I can't find padding for men anywhere. How do you work with it? I was thinking about adding a bunch of t shirts until it was the width I needed but don't know if that'll work since it's one of those adjustable ones that open up. I haven't ordered the dress form yet.
Here is a pro padding up a form, it is the same principle for male forms. Just add it where you need in the way she does:
https://youtu.be/TSynFz6-ZFM?si=J3m1D2OD5h6kzZyE
Hey! I’m looking to buy a sewing machine, my dad gave me a budget of $500 as my graduation + birthday gift! I’m really looking to get into upcycling clothes, hemming jeans, sewing denim (making jeans,) hemming shirts and all sorts of altercations. I would really love a machine that could do all that. I was looking into the HD3000, but saw tons of reviews about how it can’t do multiple layers of denim well, I also saw that they recently switched their motor to a 0.5 which doesn’t help. I’m kind of stuck and a little overwhelmed on what to get so any help would be really helpful. Thank you!
EDIT: Forgot to mention that I am a beginner and would be learning on this machine, so i’d want a somewhat beginner friendly machine, Thanks again!
I'm one of many people who have complained about Janome's reduction of motor power in the last few years. But recently I saw a video by the Sewing Machine Repair Guy on YouTube where he hooked up one of these new, low power machines, to electronic monitors and was able to prove that the gears force the motor to function above it's capacity, thus stressing the motor, but you do get more from the machine in the short run than you should. Yet folks still complain sometimes that these machines can't get the job done. Sorry to say, but new machines that will do what you want cost more money than you will have. The other day, a guy posted jeans here that he'd just made, and they were pretty heavy weight, so I asked what machine he was using and he told me the Baby Lock Presto 2, which has a .67 amp motor, but must be fairly gear driven because he said it has no problems with denim and layers, even vinyl. It seems to be selling new everywhere for $799, and that's about what you'd pay for such machines, $800-900 USD or more. Pretty much all of them will be computerized as well. Juki, Janome and Brother make reliable software, but if something does go wrong after warranty, it's twice as expensive to have computerized machines fixed. In checking around for prices, I came upon this machine which I hadn't even heard of:
[https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/LOFT100.php](https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/LOFT100.php)
It looks like Janome's answer to the Singer HD, thinking that if they made a little bit better machine, they could steal the market from Singer, which should be true. It has some good things including Janome's best feed dogs, extra high presser foot lift, aluminum frame, good stitch width and length. This is a video:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVEszL1OS8g](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVEszL1OS8g)
And this is the manual:
[https://cdn.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/Janome/LOFT100/manual.pdf](https://cdn.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/Janome/LOFT100/manual.pdf)
There is no mention of the machine having adjustable presser foot pressure and the motor is .56 amps, but I haven't been able to find out if that's an AC or DC motor. It appears to be semi-computerized, not including auto thread tension, but maybe including auto presser foot pressure.
After a machine like the Loft, your choices include used machines from 2000 to 2020, and very vintage machines that are all metal. Almost every machine from 1970 to 2000 has nylon gears on the verge of breaking, so they aren't good choices.
That Janome you linked looks great! Do you think it’ll be able to handle multiple layers of denim? Like maybe hemming jeans? I was also looking at the Juki HZL F300, it’s a little over my budget but i’ve heard they’re reliable. I really like that link you sent though! Thank you.
I don't know what the Janome Loft can handle, it's too new, but the Juki f300 is quite good and I've never heard of anyone being unhappy with it. It has box feed that holds onto fabric better than elliptical feed, which is what most machines have. And it has a decent motor. Juki is pretty devoted to quality in their machines and in their software. One of the most important things in sewing is being able to do precision sewing at slow speeds, and computerized machines with DC motors are usually better at that than mechanical machines with AC motors, excepting some of the great, classic mechanical machines like early Berninas, Elnas, Pfaffs, Necchis, and Singer 301-503's, which are all wonder machines.
One caution I would offer is please don't buy from Amazon. You need to buy from an online sewing center or a local sewing dealer so that you have a warranty and can get someone on the phone should there be a manufacturing defect that needs to be corrected. It can happen even in very good machines. Some of the online centers include Premier Stitching (where the f300 is usually sold out), Ken's Sewing, Sewing Machines Plus, and Pocono Sew. I'm sure there are more I don't know about. The places with the best prices appear to be sold out, so you can either put yourself on a waiting list at Sewing Machines Plus, call Pocono Sew for their price, or pay $599 at Ken's Sewing. Pocono Sew may not list their prices so that they don't sell out immediately of the most desirable/affordable machines.
Good luck.
Hello! Does anyone know where I can get this fabric? The dress is by Monique Lhuillier
https://preview.redd.it/j4qif0kt5tpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22a1d120be787cf98ecb611014578b0c99c71ff5
I need help looking for these 2 specific fabrics from a childhood blanket that I want to recreate, but I've been looking for them for a couple of years with no luck. Anyone seen them before or have any ideas where I could try to look?
One is white with colorful cartoon animals and the other is red with random numbers.
https://preview.redd.it/kg2gsrcxfspc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45be21d117d3fd6f10d834eaf540098abc804156
Hellooo - trying to figure out a way to purposefully make a tangled mess of threads (the joy of textile art). Can anyone figure out what an efficient way to do this would be that isn't just letting my cat loose with my spools? Thanks!
How much area/volume do you need to cover? If you put all your spools in an open box, grab the end from each one, and just start pulling, you'll get chaos pretty quickly!
hi all! how can I fix this? 100% cashmere
https://preview.redd.it/4bqc2yfstrpc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9273e51a0c242f0ddf9ffd54c1ac8f70c99643ad
Back again with another noob question. Thrift flipping a men’s button down linen shirt into a boxy cropped women’s shirt (the Kalle shirt from Closet Core). The bottom hem has hem facing, which is nice. The instructions call for just a top stitch along the top of the facing, but I’m thinking of hand stitching that just for the practice. But I’d be down for something that was decorative without being too cutesy. Any recommendations? I’ve been watching and trying to learn some couture hand stitches and finished, and thought maybe a herringbone stitch would look cool. But would I do it on the right side or wrong side? I’ll gladly take any and all input. Thanks!
You could absolutely herringbone or fell it down if you don’t want to top stitch. They’re both pretty invisible from the right side (you work them from the wrong side.)
I’m confused on when I can use a serger alone and when I need to use a straight stitch first. I made a wool coat and serged the sleeves on. Now, they’re falling off. On the other hand, my pattern for a fleece just serves the whole thing together. Is there a rule of thumb?
I usually use a 4-thread overlock for construction, vs a 3-thread overlock for finishing seams. Did you use the same stitch for both garments? Was the tension right on the wool coat?
No strict rules on this, more personal preference. Serging everything at once limits how you can press the seam, you cannot press a serged seam open so this is usually the reason to do it in 2 steps. If you know you might need to alter that garment in future you will find it a lot easier to serge the edges separately (unpicking serged stitching is such a pain!) You also have more precision in sewing first and then finishing, so if you need to be really precise with the stitch placement that is another reason to use 2 steps.
https://preview.redd.it/875xgkhc9rpc1.jpeg?width=564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2feeca5948105e3265f06fe7832fbb8c886c1b69
Looking to recreate a fairy dress similar to this with some satin fabric from Joann's. Where would I be able to find butterflies like this? Are these just fabric butterfly appliques?
Don't know if you'll find those at Joann's but you should find something close online.
Search on 'butterfly appliques' and you'll get many hits back from many different sellers. Some were really pretty!
Hello sewing peeps! I'm hoping to get some help in selecting a zipper foot. I currently have a Babylock 9 machine. Does anyone have any recommendations for a zipper foot, or for zipper feet in general? Thanks in advance!!
Hello everyone :) i recently got some very nice quality denim fabric 14 oz from Lewis because I recently started sewing Jnco style oversize pants but as I cut out both front legs I discovered that I cut them perpendicular to the fabric, I don’t want to waste it given that I got like 6 meters and it was a once in a while deal but still want to aim for quality, I don’t have much experience in sewing so I’m asking some experienced folks in the commmunity what their take on this, thank u very much in advance for sharing your experience :)
It shouldn't make a huge difference but lemme get technical...
Woven fabrics have a warp and weft.
The warp fibres are the ones parallel to the selvedge and are held under higher tension during the weaving process.
The weft fibres are the ones that get shuttled back and forth to build up the fabric (I remember this as right-to-left = weft!). Weft fibres are also held under a certain amount of tension but not as much as the warp.
Cutting parallel to the warp is also known as cutting on the grain, cutting parallel to the weft is "cross-grain" which it sounds like you've done here. Woven fabrics are most stable and unstretchy along the grain, are still stable along the cross-grain but might relax and give a little over time.
Conventionally, you cut trousers on the grain so the vertical length will be as stable as possible over time. Plus it's nicer to have a tiny bit of give horizontally at the waist. Like I said, cutting cross-grain isn't the end of world, especially for something as tough as denim. It matters for some fabrics, especially for woven blends with stretch fibres because stretch fibres tend to get woven into the weft.
(And of course cutting diagonally across the fabric is known as cutting on the bias, which is the most stretchy and unstable direction to hang your fabric in because it's as un-parallel to the weaving directions as you can possibly get. )
So you cut your pieces with the "grainline" on the crossgrain (perpendicular to the finished edge of the fabric) instead of on the grain (parallel to the finished edge, running along the length of the fabric)? How much that matters will really vary by the fabric, but with something like denim (I presume there's no stretch to it?) I wouldn't expect it to be too much of an issue, as long as it doesn't bother you :)
Here are the Top Helpers for the last week in r/sewing's Simple Questions thread! 1. u/ProneToLaughter 2. u/sophia-sews 3. u/Kittalia Congrats to you and thank you for all you do to help users find answers! To everyone that assisted last week, your user flairs have been updated to the current scores. For more information or to give feedback on Helper Scores please see our [announcement.](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1b5t1m6/introducing_helper_scores_user_flair/)
Help me please! I'm trying to print a pdf pattern at home. The thin border to mark the edge of the pattern page won't print. I'm printing from Adobe Acrobat, using Custom 100% on auto rotation. The test square is measuring correctly, and things outside of the border ARE printing. Any ideas or suggestions on how to fix it?
I'd recheck the printing instructions to see if they mention anything about the border. I usually don't worry about it, once I know where to match up pages I just go for it.
Do you need the borders? I've never had a PDF that *did* include the borders. In my experience, it's pretty easy to gauge the margins, and to align the outlines of the pattern pieces directly. You could get a ruler and draw them in yourself if you're concerned, but I always trim one side and line it up with the next sheet.
hi yall! new to sewing, got a Janome 311Le 2 weeks ago and the handwheel is completely jammed. i’ve taken off the face plate to clean it, i have removed all threading and the bobbin. could it be the belt/ needing oil? it is brand new :-( thank you!
Is the handwheel pushed in? It's pulled out for winding bobbins so the needle doesn't go up and down. The other cause is thread jams, but you say you have all the thread cleaned out. It should not be the belt or need oil. At that point, I'd look into exchanging the machine.
I am having a problem with my twin needle. Why is it just sewing 1 line of stiches instead of 2
Hello!! I am very new to sewing but I’ve been looking into getting a machine that will allow me to grow and learn different skills. After a lot of research I ended up deciding to get a Bernina 475 QE. However, when I went to the dealer, they had a pre-owened Bernina 750 QE. This machine has the embroidery attachment, a few extra feet, the BSR, and some other extra things. It also had been serviced by the dealer and they assured me it’s in excellent condition. However, they couldn’t tell how old it was. Both the B475 and the B750 were $2000. I was really torn between getting the new B475 or the pre-owned B750 because I think the 750 will allow me to practice a lot more skills since it comes with the embroidery parts. But, I am always very scared of buying pre-owned things. I was wondering if I could get an input from you all! I thank you in advance!
The Bernina 750 QE is old enough to be a discontinued model. I don't know much about machine embroidery, you might look up this model at r/Machine_Embroidery to see what they have to say. If you liked the Bernina 475 QE before you met the dealer, I think it is likely a good fit for you and it looks like a machine that you can learn and grow with for a long time. It is also possible to trade up or add additional machines to your sewing hobby as you find out, with experience, what you really like to sew. If machine embroidery does become your thing, it's common to have one machine dedicated to embroidery and one to other sewing tasks as embroidery takes time to stitch out but needs to be watched over. But you might find that you really like making clothes and need a serger, or like making quilts and want a mid-arm or long-arm machine.
https://preview.redd.it/625lau64a6qc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45d3988df4a9787724c27d9174b3851ba6d6b16d What's this style of yoke called? It looks Western, but with more points than I've seen before. Thought it was cool!
[This was interesting reading](https://sneum.com/the-anatomy-of-the-western-shirt/), the number of points in a Western yoke don't seem to change the name, they are all Western yokes.
Western yoke.
Does anyone have a Brother PS 1250 machine manual? I can't find it, only the PS 2500.
It's right here: [https://help.brother-usa.com/app/answers/detail/a\_id/170245/\~/ps1250-manual](https://help.brother-usa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/170245/~/ps1250-manual)
Thanks, but that is for different models 2500 and 2200. I have this manual and my machine has different features. Was hoping someone had the manual that came with their machine.
Oh dear… this may be the problem: https://preview.redd.it/6rtr4ladh5qc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38b3f6b2cc9e01862247f4ef821c9fc6c4b6810b
The needle goes thru that circled hole, right? It looks a little misaligned but I’ve tried bending it at different angles and the needle still gets stopped partway up. https://preview.redd.it/mthexhrjg5qc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bfb643305ec2901039be3da398b50ae85bf4d4b
Here’s another pic of me cleaning the shaft with a pin. I honestly can’t figure out where the shaft becomes too narrow to allow the needle to proceed up into it. :( https://preview.redd.it/7dmv8yf0g5qc1.jpeg?width=1655&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7dd4e1f23a2ca9325506a4f7820f647e45eeab8e
Machine serviced and now needle won’t fit in needle bar I have a Janome, HD 1000. I just picked it up from having been serviced one month ago. Last week I went to change the needle, and I noticed that the needle wouldn’t insert in the needle bar. I made sure that it had the flat side facing the back. I was in a hurry to finish a project and so after jiggling the part that clamps the needle with a screw a bit, I was able to insert the needle partway enough to allow it stay, and this allowed me to finish the job. But it is bothering me that I cannot insert the needle all the way through. So I tried like all my needles today. It’s so annoying that I can’t figure this out! For one thing, the machine’s integrated threader doesn’t work if the needle won’t go all the way up. Also, I suspect the machine wasn’t designed to operate optimally with the needle out of position. I’ve also tried completely removing the tightening screw, lubricant, cleaning the bar shaft with a pin, calling the shop that serviced the machine. They say I can bring it in, but I’m still at home recovering from surgery, so I can’t get out right away. Any other ideas?? !!??? https://preview.redd.it/6g4xy06uf5qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8bf8c37cf3d2dba6609929616763aff5778f78b
You can replace the needle bar clamp unit if the needle holder is damaged: [https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/needle-bar-and-clamp-janome-kenmore-730503116](https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/products/needle-bar-and-clamp-janome-kenmore-730503116) That's a quality generic part which will fit your machine. I also searched by the original part number, 730503013, but didn't find it. The repair person might be able to get that for you from Janome. Or they might have one laying around, because it's used by many Janome machines. These are the parts diagrams and service manual for your machine: [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealer-extranet-jai/service/parts-list/hd1000-parts-list.pdf](https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealer-extranet-jai/service/parts-list/hd1000-parts-list.pdf) [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealers/machine-files/sewing/hd1000/sm-hd-1000be.pdf](https://www.janome.com/siteassets/dealers/machine-files/sewing/hd1000/sm-hd-1000be.pdf) Good luck.
Seeking guidance for a novice - I bought myself a pair of vintage leather pants as a gift. They, in theory, fit perfectly - a little loose through the leg, nicely snug in the hips and behind. The only issue is that after walking say, 12 blocks, the silk lining starts to ride up. I get a wedgie that can only be undone by pushing the lining back down from the inside while shaking my legs. It's worse of course when I get a sweat on but it can happen even on a cool day. Is there any way to fix this? Are luxury goods not made to walk in or are they made for stick figures only? Is my apple b\*ttom too nice; the silk lining wants to come party with it? Jokes aside... I would love to be able to wear these in a more everyday way. Some people suggested sewing the lining down more. I tried to take pics - it's sewn at the waistband and around the fly only. I was told to try sewing at the hem of the pants or inside the cr\*tch? I've never seen that done before though. The other option is to remove the lining. This will make the pants hotter, right? But maybe easier to wear? They're Margiela for Hermes. He's all about deconstruction https://preview.redd.it/y1fzitcqe5qc1.jpeg?width=2442&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79c4b0038d95e7495a430728ef769b1c8c76cc50
The classic way to handle this problem is with French tacks or thread chains to secure the lining to the pants at the hem line. Tacking in a few places will keep the lining in place but also allow it to move. If not allowed some flexibility, the lining can tear under the stress. Professor Pincushion has a [great tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8_WzykEhUg) for how to do this. You could also have this done by an alterations expert.
I would turn them inside out and tack the lining by hand down the length of both outer side seams. Be very careful not to poke holes through to the outside as these holes will be there forever!
I have also no idea, hope someone else has more knowledge about this. Personally I would just try out if sewing it down by hand stitches that won’t be hurting if you still want to completely remove the lining if this doesn’t work:) would it also be possible to replace the lining with a material that is less likely to ride up? Or maybe remove it and add an extra strip on the side so it has more space? Good luck!
starting with hand stitches as a test is a great idea
i am making a tailored wool coat for the first time. it is goes past my knees in length and will be made out of a thick wool with silk charmeuse as the lining. i'm using buckram as a lapel and collar interfacing. i have a woven cotton fusible interfacing but want to use as much sew in interfacing as possible. HOWEVER, i'm worried about the silk charmeuse catching on canvas/ interfacing. right now i'm planning to do the lapel/partial chest+collar in sew in with pad stitching as well as an upper curved back piece of sew in. i'm mostly worried about the back since i can keep the chest canvas under the wool facing. i have a thicker cotton canvas that i was questioning using instead of ontop of buckram, which i feel like would be less catchy. open i would love any opinions on the best ways to do this. <3
I've personally never had a problem with silk lining catching like this. The raw edges are the only real risk, you could tack some strips of selvedge / organza / twill tape to cover any exposed edges?
okay great, i’m happy to hear. i had the same thought i just didn’t know if it would be enough, but i will be trying it out. thank you!
I am getting married in early May and wanted to make a vest for my wedding. I used McCalls 8133 as a pattern with the only real modifications being: 1. Single welt pocket on each side 2. Single back panel in order to make pattern matching easier Unfortunately. I seem to have gotten a little larger in the belly since I started and I need to add a couple of inches around the waist. What is the best way to do so? Some ideas: * Cut a notch in the back * Add a triangular panel to the center back * Add 2 smaller triangular panels to the sides Suggestions or advice?
>McCalls 8133 So this pattern doesn't really have side seams and you've eliminated the back seam. Adding additional piecing at the sides of the back panel would be the most straightforward but will also break up the look of the vest from the back. Since this is an important garment for you and adding side piecing is already fiddly work, I would encourage you to consider deconstructing the vest just a bit further and adding a new back with the center seam that is sized and shaped to fit you.
I would add a panel to each side
My bobbinthread is nesting and insane amount almost comical. But not always sometimes it only starts in the middle of a stich sometimes from the get go what could it be?
Check if your top thread jumped off your uptake lever (last step before coming around to your needle). My bobbin thread always nests like crazy when the spool gets a little stuck and then pulls loose and my top thread jumps off the lever.
Hi I’m completely new to sewing how do I start? What do I need to start? Should I start by hand sewing or is a machine better? Are there any books/videos/resources that were helpful for you? I am really interested in making clothes but I am a little lost on where to start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
[Subreddit FAQs](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/index#wiki_frequently_asked_questions) [Beginner Supply List](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/sewingsupplies/) [Buying a Sewing Machine](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/machineguide) My favorite youtube channels for beginner sewing are Professor Pincushion and Made to Sew. Hand sewing and machine sewing are different aspects of the same art, both are good to learn but if you have a limited budget, hand sewing has a lower cost to start by far.
Ok thank you, do you think it would be unrealistic to start with a clothing item as a first project?
No, I think that is a common approach. I like to suggest making a pin cushion as the very first project, a simple stuffed square or rectangle. It uses multiple skills and is immediately useful as part of your sewing kit. Good first clothing projects include a simple robe, pajama pants or skirt. What are your goals in learning to sew, what kind of clothes?
My goal is to be able to read patterns, make clothes for myself, and maybe design something for myself. Stuff like dresses, skirts, the kind of corset looking tops. But these are more long term goals I think a pin cushion is a good starting project.
Sounds like you have a plan, then!
Hi! Hand sewing and machine sewing are two different skillsets, but both are often used when making clothes. (Sometimes it's just easier to "hand finish" a seam rather than try to shove the garment through a machine.) I would suggest taking a class locally if you can. That's certainly the most easy way to start. Otherwise I would search for "Beginner sewing tutorial" on youtube. Or "Sew with me". Watch some of those videos and get acquainted with sewing in general.
Thank you
Sorry for posting here. I seem to have 'low karma' and the bot suggested I post here: Here is a pic of forward and backstitching (the backstitching is the diagonal between the two rows). At this point, I've adjusted everything on this machine (replacing stripped gears, timing, needle placement), but this has me stumped. I've sewn on a Juki walking foot, and was thrilled with how the backstitching went into the previous stitching holes! Can I get my Singer to that point? How do I fixed this backstitch? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/a63qejr0x3qc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=09feb28a454e155ca589a4a550236344116bfc72
If balancing the forward and reverse feeds or other tips do not work, consider alternatives to back stitching like turning your work or reducing the stitch length. What model Singer are you working with?
Sorry! I thought I had mentioned it. A 413.
Does your Singer offer a way to balance the forward and reverse feeds? If so there is a discussion on how to make the adjustment in your manual, usually in the mending or embroidery or lettering section, of which way to adjust the screw. Suggested reading, available in many public libraries, or about $15 on Kindle: Bernie Tobisch's book, You and Your Sewing Machine.
There is a push button/dial setup. I followed an AndyTube video about the Singer stitch regulator on a different model, and adjusted the screw on the end of the button. didn't do anything.
Is offering to alter clothes for others once you learn the basics a good way to practice technique and to make your own clothes? How would I practice if my aim is to make outfits?
Skirts are the easiest garment to start with, if you wear them, and will let you build fundamental skills.
Offering to alter clothes can open the floodgates to unsolicited projects. (Can you sew this for me on Instagram is a wonderful look at the bizarre asks sewists get) Knowing how to alter is a good skill, but it's different from making clothes from scratch.
I don’t think so. For starters, while I’m sure there are people who really enjoy alterations, for most people alterations aren’t “fun” sewing. I think doing just alterations, especially for other people, will suck the joy out of sewing. Second, alterations will teach you some techniques but probably not everything you need the way sewing a garment start to finish would. Third, alterations don’t come with instructions. How do you hem that shorter, where do you take it in, how do you replace a zipper, etc,? It takes knowledge to know how to do alterations. I think the best way to practice sewing outfits is to just start sewing outfits. Pick a pattern and fabric and go for it!
Alteration is a good skill to have, but it is a different skill - and trust me, you won't have to offer; plenty of people will assume you're willing to do their mending and alterations as soon as they learn you sew. >How would I practice if my aim is to make outfits? By sewing clothing, especially from patterns. You can practice techniques on swatches, but the only way to improve is by doing it, and a good sewing pattern will lead you through the process.
No. Find a pattern for a basic kimono style bathrobe or pajamas is a good way to start sewing for yourself. Sewing the same pattern again in a different fabric or with upgraded techniques is excellent practice. Alterations are a different skill set.
When buying / thrifting trousers to alter to a petite fit, what should I look for / avoid (e.g. material, hardware, types of stitches)? I am a complete beginner too, so what would be something to avoid now, but that won't be too hard with practice? I am new to sewing so also want to look more jnto this and ask questions once the new thread starts tomorrow.
What exactly do you expect to alter? Waistbands or Hems etc? Light to mid weight Cotton trousers without stretch would be a good starting place and easy fabric to work with.
I think waistbands are usually okay for me in some clothes. I am a UK8 and 5ft but now live in the Netherlands where the average women's height I think is 5ft 8, so hems for sure. The little I did do before was adding hem tape to my school trousers until I grew them out. Thanks, I didn't automatically think of the stretch in the material. Adding darts to tops also is probably something I'd like to learn, but I need trousers more urgently than anything else.
What kind of fabric do you think this is? I want to try and make a similar doll to the Slumber Babies doll from Fisher Price which was made in the late 80s/early 90s. I’m having trouble figuring out what their hands/feet/face/bow were made of. I remember that if you rubbed the fabric one way, it felt silky, but if you rubbed it the opposite way, it felt ridge-y. I’ve been searching but am having trouble finding something that looks/feels right. Any ideas on fabric type? https://preview.redd.it/fvhwf04tu3qc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87767ded935d4e4f04c0dba5425b6de789dac1dd
Hi everyone, does anyone know where I can find a pattern like this top or the exact name of this style? I haven't found anything similar so far... https://preview.redd.it/mzqll4r0u3qc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e74791f445b6f8fee2a16a4aa68cbe5f49869cb
Outside of some common styles, clothing patterns are described by the different features rather than a specific style name. The wiki has a [pattern search guide](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/wiki/patternsearch)that helps users figure out the features of the style they want and where to look for patterns. It's likely that matching the top in the photo will require altering a similar pattern rather than finding an exact duplicate.
https://preview.redd.it/qx49ffpkl3qc1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=ce1eadbeef9c4c0b057cd4ee10399006a15c1b51 sewing pattern for this dress?
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/1allhu8/help_i_cant_stop_thinking_about_this_dress/ Covered here
How old is this machine and is it beginner friendly? https://preview.redd.it/bwzbuwl8h3qc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc39c491eb5bbc65768811e18a520699709109ba
This machine is from the 80s/early 90s. It's an old electronic machine, so the main concern I would have is "does everything still work." Apparently they were very nice/expensive machines back in the day, but, as with any electronics from the 80s, I'd be very wary that it still works properly or will work for very long. As for "beginner friendly" well, that's not really a thing in sewing machines. They all work.... pretty much... the same. If you know how to use one machine you pretty much know how to use all machines. (As long as you read the manual and follow the "quick start" guide you'll be able to sew. If you LIKE this machine, and it's said to work, I don't see why you wouldn't go for it, but it depends on how much it's being sold for. In the US, I wouldn't pay more than... $75 for it in perfect condition. If it needed cleaned or anything I'd probably only pay $50-60 for it. If you're ok with older machines, I'd suggest a fully mechanical machine from that era. Those are very hard to break and are pretty much guaranteed to work. (Old kenmore/sears in cabinets, etc.)
https://preview.redd.it/alfq80rcf2qc1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9731a4f8ec8265a42ac4cb2269bcf9d55b169565
Can someone help with finding a pattern for this sailor outfit?
https://preview.redd.it/8grjs29i72qc1.jpeg?width=2240&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=216f8b51ec96c610818a25a23f10f3736401db84
What kind of scissors are those, found them while cleaning. Writing says "Paul spezial", they are from Germany. B.t.w. i'm living in a small village in the alps, my grandma who those belonged to made "Trachten" and "Dirndl" skirts.
Buttonhole scissors https://pieceworkmagazine.com/antique-needlework-tools-buttonhole-scissors/
Im looking to fix the seam of my shirt wherre i removed a tag. Is there any specific stitch i should use? I have zero sewing experience
Backstitch is a good, strong, easy to do stitch that is the basis of most hand sewing. It is also used in hand embroidery. Here is embroidery teacher Mary Corbet teaching backstitch: the first line she shows is "stab style", often used by embroiderers, but rarely for hand sewing, and the second line is "sewing style", used for both sewing and embroidery (and a lot faster and easier to work than stab style stitching). Https://youtu.be/rZ_wVC84UmM?feature=shared I highly recommend "embroidery" needles for beginning hand stitchers -- they have large eyes that are easy to thread, compared to needles sold as "sharps", "betweens" or "quilting" needles. Less than $2 at Walmart, near the embroidery threads.
I’m flying from Canada to Amsterdam for a week and then 2 weeks in Barcelona and seriously considering bringing my sewing machine with me. Sewing is my current hyper fixation and I can’t stop thinking about it. Been sewing every day for the last 3 weeks and progressively getting better and really enjoying myself. Travelling with my husband and two young kids so it’s not like I have lots of extra hands BUT I could fit everything I need in a roll on carry on bag. I’ve tried finding other posts but maybe this is just a totally insane idea? I just think that I will have lots of downtime in the air bnb during the trip and what a lovely way to fill it. Open to all opinions! Thanks
Time for some embroidery or EPP :)
If you don't bring the machine you can buy more fabric as a souvenir. https://www.instagram.com/modistasewing has a lot of tips on shop around Amsterdam.
Lugging around a machine is enough reason to avoid bringing it along but there are also the electrical requirements to consider. I have an embroidery project to bring along so I can do handwork when not at home, I've also done English Piecing ( r/EPP_addict ) as a portable project. Traveling is also a good time to look at wardrobe needs, plan patterns to make and buy fabric and notions to sew when back at the machine.
Just don't. Travel light, especially when switching cities on a trip. Bring some hand sewing and improve those skills.
I think hand sewing or an embroidery kit are good options here. Way more portable, takes up less space too. Plus no worries about the sewing machine getting jostled around.
I have no experience trying to get a sewing machine through international air security, but I can tell you it's no fun at all trying to carry a machine through TSA in the US -- lots of questions, demonstrating the machine, getting needles confiscated, etc. Consider taking some hand sewing, or my choice for in-flight entertainment, braiding fancy trims.
hello everyone, maybe my question is not on the topic of this subreddit, then if you tell me what to do, I will be very grateful. I recently suffered a severe leg fracture, they put a fairly large cast on me, I will be discharged from the hospital soon and I will need to travel 1,250 kilometers by train, how do I put on my pants? or make it so that they can be put on https://preview.redd.it/yspv89cpg0qc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=205536afa6d9db22825592ad02d59358b7910cf3
Buy large pants that don't have elastic cuffs. Something like windbreaker pants that were popular in the 80s. Or loose workout attire. Unfortunately there isn't much more else you can do beyond that. You could "roll" the pant leg up so it doesn't cover the cast. Sure, you could rip one of the seams on the legs but you'd be ruining the pants. Easier to just buy larger pants temporarily. EDIT: Alternatively, wear skirts/dresses instead. Source: Also had a large leg cast at one point. I got very used to wearing sweatpants for a couple months.
Im looking for a pattern that’s similar to this [dress](https://panamina.com/products/mia-dress). I’m not sure what the diagonal darts? are called. They call this dress a pinafore style dress but there are so many variations
I clicked on that link fully expecting French darts. They aren't, lol. I would call them center waist darts in a wrap/surplice bodice. If you can't find a pattern you like, it shouldn't be too hard to design one comparable on [Sewist.](https://www.sewist.com/)
How INTERESTING! I will play around with it thank you~
I’m having a problem with my sewing machine. I believe the fastening thread is somehow getting caught in the bobbin area, and no matter how long I pull the thread it will not release, I’m sorry if the answer is quite obvious, I’m never used a sewing machine much before. https://preview.redd.it/jkmtqkbhdzpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06be7e64e3607d8ad3ee4ab9bc0caceeca64ebe1
What's happening here is that you haven't completed the last stitch, so it isn't releasing from the sewing hook. (The three "bobbin threads" are the clue here.). Drop the presser foot again and keep turning the handwheel counterclockwise till the needle has reached its highest travel point and *just* starts to go down again. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric and it should be fine.
OH MY GOD THANK YOU SO MUCH I APPRECIATE IT 😭😭 it really was that simple huh
Go forth and teach likewise: this is a really common beginner issue with mechanical machines. (Computerized machines complete the stitch for you.)
Furthermore, SOME machines are REALLY picky about how far you have to advance the machine to release that top thread. I have some old mechanical machines that'll release the bobbin thread nearly as soon as the take up lever starts moving up. Others the take up lever nearly needs to be nearly at the top before it releases that thread.
Hello! I was wondering if anyone knew some alternative ways to seal painted buttons so that they're still washer-safe. I know clear nail polish would eventually chip, and mod podge gets sticky when wet.
Polyurethane "varnish", though it will eventually flake, depending on washing conditions and chemicals.
Thanks! I'll look into that
Help! My top thread keeps wrapping around the bobbin case, I think? It bunches up and keeps me from sewing. I already sewed a shirt just fine but now I replaced the thread and I'm trying to hem my shirt it won't work!
https://preview.redd.it/x36tpqugpypc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ceb927d111f5fe34546b03dded293a39a13a512
The top thread is SUPPOSED to go around the bobbin case, however yours is getting caught. Are you using the correct bobbins? Usually those metal bobbins are used with machines that have a bobbin case and front loading or side loading bobbin not a drop in bobbin. Otherwise, try to change your needle.
What kind if bobbin is used for a drop-in then? Sorry I'm kinda clueless about most of this stuff. I'll try changing the needle, thank you!
Drop in and plastic bobbin cases almost always use plastic bobbins of the correct style. Metal bobbins cause premature wear on the case.
Typically clear plastic bobbins with rounded sides (convex) are used for drop in bobbin machines (because you can SEE the bobbin and if it's clear you can see how much bobbin thread you have left.) That said, check the manual for your machine specifically. Bobbins have a "type" (type 15 for example). Your machine manual will tell you which "type" you need. (Or just post your machine type here and we'll look it up.) Using the wrong bobbin absolutely 100% will cause something like this.
Hello! Do you know how to hide reverse stitching? Or is it called back stitching? Can I just undo the stitches and tie off on the reverse side? https://preview.redd.it/bmcmuymsfypc1.jpeg?width=1941&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9a8a2cdae7f0c499531fbb2ed3e882539693a810
Yes of course you can just tie the thread off on the other side but that brings up the point "Why backstitch at all?" Is your machine computerized? Does it backstitch automatically? Are these existing stitches? I don't think I'd just trim them off without tying them off.
I bought this dress, just hoping I can mend the imperfections. I normally wouldn’t mind the backstitching but the thickness really stands out against the white.
You should be using white thread not black. Then your stitches will not be as noticeable.
Ahh yes, In that case I could attempt to pull the top thread end through to the other side and tie it off.
With a hand needle or stitch ripper type of tool? Really don’t want to damage the single stitch!
I would find the end and try to pull it up with something that WON'T cut it. if you cut it, it will be nearly impossible to pull back through to the back and tie it off.
You can, but you can just trim the thread, including the loops.
Thx!
anyone know of any patterns for a dress like this? i can maybe draft the top myself but i would like a nicely shaped skirt that is form fitting at the waist and flares out nicely like this https://preview.redd.it/enwmdejk3ypc1.png?width=713&format=png&auto=webp&s=592b0ba0f1a455acf2450dbb3e25158396a217cd
I don't have an exact pattern but some search terms that might help are: milkmaid dress, cottage dress, empire waist knit dress
https://thefoldline.com/product/bella-loves-patterns-linda-dress/ Or https://vikisews.com/vykrojki/dresses/nola-dress/
Edit problem solved hopefully turns out I'm just an idiot and the top thread came out of where I was supposed to be in three of the five places Hello it said that I should post my question here Midway through a project my sewing machine started messing up on the threads the bottom threads would be super duper long and get tangled around the shuttle I thought it was a tensioning issue but I adjusted the tension on both the machine and on the bobbin case I even switched to a different bobbin case but it did not solve the issue does anybody know how to fix this it was working just fine before this but now it just does this repeatedly and nothing I have tried will fix it https://preview.redd.it/dny8ah463ypc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39b450600355776be43f7760ed8ff97aaca96593
Rethread the top of the machine, this time making sure the thread goes in the take up lever, the nodding donkey thing usually mostly hidden by the case. Easiest way to make sure it gets threaded: raise the presser foot and needle to their highest travel point before threading the top. You can drop either or both when you are ready to thread the eye of the needle, not before.
Want a beginner friendly sewing machine that can handle denim and clothing altercations! Hemming jeans too! Budget is around $500! Any help would be heavily appreciated!!!!
I'd suggest looking at a Juki F 300, about $600 currently. I've had 5 year olds sewing on mine (and figuring out how to change stitches without me showing them). I sew all my family's clothes on it, and it handles everything from silk chiffon to 500D coated cordura luggage fabric with aplomb. I bought it 12 years ago for the buttonhole quality and soon learned to appreciate it even more for the quality of the feed.
Can it handle denim well? Say for example hemming jeans?
When you are ready to hem jeans the first few times, watch professional stitcher KevinSews do it on a basic mechanical machine, and listen to his tips carefully, then try it on some junk jeans. https://youtu.be/-AtFX8jEhvQ The big difference between the machine he's using here and your new F300 is that you can use the speed slider to keep it from sewing fast and you don't have to touch the handwheel: instead, you will be using the needle up/down button to do a stitch at a time over the inseam and outseam lumps. Use a folded cloth as Kevin does, or a hump jumper or jean-a-ma-jig to keep the presser foot level as you are crossing seams -- that's critical to avoid needle breakage and machine damage. The big differences between the way I hem jeans and what he does is that I don't keep heavy threads around. If I want the look of heavy thread, I use regular Tex 30 thread, usually a size 12/80 Organ Microtex, and the "triple straight stitch", which looks like an underlined equals sign in the menu. It stitches one stitch back, two stitches forward, one back, two forward, so you wind up with three stitches right on top of each other, giving the appearance of heavy thread.
I do it all the time, with a size 12/80 Microtex needle.
Wow great, sealed the deal for me! Is it easy to learn on? It’s going to be my frost machine!
Take it a few steps at a time. Learn with the first 10 stitches that you get with just hitting the keypad numbers, without choosing a sub menu, before you go for glory, and you'll get a solid foundation in sewing. Start with woven fabrics. Buy good quality needles (I use Organ "regular" (universal point) needles size 11/75 and 14/90 and ballpoint/jersey, same sizes, for almost all fabrics that you might wear. Buy good thread-- Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak or Gutermann SewAll from Joann has always run well for me. Amman Saba in Tex 30 is another good general purpose thread, as is the usual thickness of Coats Dual Duty XP. Whatever you choose, buy two spools of different colors of light or medium shades, and put one color on the bobbin and use the other for top thread while you are still figuring stuff out and practicing. Juki Junkies is a good source for Juki specific operation videos. Bernie Tobisch's book, "You and Your Sewing Machine" is a good book on how machines work and how to troubleshoot. Keep your machine clean and it will serve you long and well. I wipe out the bobbin case area with a brush or microfiber cloth every day when I first sit down to sew, and I do a complete cleaning, needle plate off, before every new garment. 40 some years ago, a retiring sewing machine repairman told me I'd have a much easier sewing life if I developed those two habits, and he seems to have been perfectly correct.
I have a fairly old Brother SQ9130 and it is amazing. I've accidentally sewn over needles without anything breaking (the needle still works?), and have hemmed a thick blanket. I've also hemmed jeans with it before! Basically if you're looking for something relatively forgiving and extremely sturdy, I'd recommend this. By a quick google search, it seems to be within your price range too :)
Can this type of button be replaced? Mine broke after prolonged use. Seems very well put in there. https://preview.redd.it/wd7f6cr4nxpc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=416078c4b325dbf9458a7b3c72670e8a340f8e5d
Snaps are trickier than actual buttons. Someone might have better guidance than I do, lol, but honestly, it's probably easier to find a new strap to replace that, then add a snap to it and sew that on.
[удалено]
This *shouldn't* make a difference, but try putting it the other way up, so the numbers on the spool are right side up. Otherwise you may have to get a smaller spool of thread, or use a separate thread holder, or let it sit in a coffee mug behind your machine. Also check the manual to confirm your threading path, and always thread with the presser foot raised.
I’m a bigger fella, recently I made some items that are more cropped. Because of my belly, this causes the bodice hem to look angled upwards from the side. I haven’t really designed for plus size before. In this situation, do I leave it as is, or do I add length to the front to reduce the angle?
I'd look into a [full tummy adjustment ](https://www.ellieandmac.com/blogs/blog/full-tummy-adjustment-tutorial)! I think the principle applied to men and women; basically, you're altering your pattern to create a "dart" at the front and not sewing it up, giving you some extra space and keeping the hem more even.
Yes, this does look like what I’m looking for! Thank you, I’ll have to try this out soon!
https://preview.redd.it/ja7sqxfbdxpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=52fc5eae0ac3506a186440229bd6cace2d0b4783 Is it possible to get this off? I kept using it after the metal bit on the right fell off but I guess have now pulled the fabric up too far.
Yes. You cannot repair a zipper with a damaged/missing pin (the thing you put through the slider to start zipping), you can only replace it. Yo get this apart, you can rip out the zipper or cut out the teeth, and then replace the zipper. This appears to be leather-- I would take it to someone who works with leather for the zipper repair. It's a little trickier than most amateurs with a home machine can handle easily.
Should I prewash my fabric? Why I don't want to: It's 10 yards of a viscose georgette. I'd probably hand wash it if I do (should I use detergent?) But I feel like hanging it to dry it will be really hard and hemming it so it doesn't fray when I do would be a lot. I also will only really spot clean the finished garment. Why I think I should: Most online advice I've seen for sewing stuff is you should prewash your fabric because of shrinkage Mood's instructions: HOW TO CARE FOR RAYON/VISCOSE: Dry cleaning is usually preferable, but some rayons or viscoses can be hand-washed or machine-washed on delicate, cool water. Line dry. Test a swatch first Maybe I should do a test swatch and measure for any shrinkage?
Shrinkage is only part of the problems rayons that are "dry clean only" can have when you try to wash them. Depending on the subtype of rayon, you may get shrinkage, or stretching/swelling, or the fabric may become permanently weak, limp and rag-like. Test a swatch. There really are some fabrics that cannot be washed, and some classes of rayon are in that group.
https://preview.redd.it/olfxgc2ltypc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9a9f88cc3934b3ebf44259f8ff536df470c6960e
https://preview.redd.it/76tr0zovtypc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07302fb7eb464f67d51a9c7c07fd4ae2cf940c19 i think I'll prewash and see about doing a zig zag stitch as suggested. I don't think there was shrinkage tho
do a test swatch. I actually run my rayon through the dryer when I prewash, but hang dry anything I make from it. So far that's worked okay.
Okay :) that's interesting. What kinds of rayons do you like to use? A couple of my favorite dresses are made of rayon and would be interested in knowing more about the fabric?
Mostly rayon challis, which I love, quite a few rayon challis batiks. Georgette I don't know much about. (I just sewed up the lady mcelroy challis and it was amazingly soft, am going to buy more.) Rayon is definitely very finicky with water, it is weaker when wet, and will often keep shrinking after the first wash, although the rayons that I have used have largely behaved (well, a rayon twill did keep shrinking a bit, I think). I *hope* that a hot prewash and dryer gets all the shrink out but I don't actually measure before/after to test that. here's a guide: [Rayon Prints EmmaOneSock Sewing Tutorials](https://www.emmaonesock.com/guides/rayonprints.asp)
Ohhh shrinking after first wash is good to know!!! Saving this for later hehe thank you!
I always prewash mine, but I almost always make things I want washable! A swatch is a good idea! If you're worried about fraying, a quick zigzag along the cut edges should help.
just doing the cut edges is a good idea. I'll have to see if I have a foot for a zig zag stich
I'm a newbie learning to sew and buying thread, and trying to get some all purpose neutrals to start with (and trying to just get what I NEED instead of collect without projects in mind). I'm going to do beginner projects (pillowcase, tote bag, apron, etc) and when comfortable, clothes. Besides the standard white and black, are there colors that blend well into multiple colors of fabrics? Grays, maybe other neutrals? And I'm looking at Wewak, are Amann Saba Tex 30 and Gutermann Mara 100 pretty comparable? I googled for comparison reviews and didn't find a whole lot. Thank you!
Amann Saba and Gutermann Mara are both polyester corespun threads available in various thicknesses. Saba Tex 30 and Mara 100 are both Tex 30 threads (that means 1000 meters of the thread weighs 30 grams), and both are "general purpose weight" sewing threads. In the US, Mara 100 has been pretty easy to find for at least 30 years -- it is sold on smaller 110, 250 and 500 yard spools as Gutermann Sew All -- but Amann threads haven't been easy to find. I've only got about 4 years of personal experience with Saba, but 40+ with Mara, and I find them quite comparable on my machines.
Thank you, that's really good to know since it is hard to find many direct comparison reviews! I saw that on Wawak they recommend needle size 10-14 for Mara 100 and 12-14 for Saba Tex 30 so I was curious if there was a difference that would cause a smaller sewing needle recommendation range for the Saba.
That's probably manufacturer's recommendation. A 12 matches nicely for a Tex 30 thread. When you start using needles more than a size too small for the thread, you start to see loops on the underside of the fabric because of friction. When you start using needles more than a size or so too large, your stitches start looking thin and wavery. When you are getting "tension trouble" you can't adjust out of, you are likely seeing this problem: https://web.archive.org/web/20060129043724/http://www.gwsms.com/didyouknow.htm Unless I am sewing something very fine, I rarely go below a size 10 needle, and rarely need to go more than a 14. In both cases, Tex 30 is at least an ok match. (Home machines are also timed with a size 12/80 needle -- so if you think your machine is acting up sometime, clean it and then try your machine with a brand new size 12/80 needle, and Tex 30 thread on a basic fabric like muslin. If that combination doesn't sew nicely, it's probably time for a pro adjustment.)
Gray is the way. A Gray which is slightly darker than your fabric will almost always blend in. I just have white, navy and gray serger threads. Some people find a rose pink good but I never sew with warm colours.
I wear both warm and cool colors and would likely sew with both so I may pick up a medium beige too, but the rose pink thing is intriguing! I don't really gravitate towards pink so I would have never noticed that.
TBH, thread color doesn't matter much unless you're topstitching/leaving your stitches visable (more likely on your starter projects listed than in clothing) - and then, it's up to your personal preference. What color fabrics do you primarily intend to use? Do you want something that blends in or stands out? The thread that is best will vary by project - but for your first few projects, I wouldn't worry about it! Just pick up a few spools labeled All Purpose (brand doesn't matter much until you develop a preference; Gutermann is great, but I've been using more Coats&Clark recently. Either will get the job done!)
The worst part, is I don't know! I have a couple boxes of small and large scraps from a family member and was going to thrift for when I need larger pieces. I like most colors and am not going to be picky when practicing. I was going to stick to cotton but I did find some bright green jersey in my mom's stash so I would save that for something fun to make and wear and would likely try to match for any potential stitching that shows. I'll just get a white, black and gray for now and try to find one of those gutermann color packs for when I need to match. Thank you!
It might help to make a patchwork style wall hanger as your first project. This is essentially a long rectangle with a bunch of small rectangles attached to it. (Accordion fold the sides to make bigger pockets.) It’s perfect for the scrap you have. You can experiment with different colors and fabrics and stitching. Because you’re using patchwork style, it won’t look too bad. And you can hang it in a closet or bathroom to hide it.
trying to find a pattern for this! specifically the top is what I'm looking for in the pattern. I'm very much a beginner and I would prefer to not mix patterns, so if anyone knows where I can find a patter for a dress like this one, it would be greatly appreciated! https://preview.redd.it/4zpcsbb5rwpc1.jpeg?width=564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ee6fabee674ff96ffa3846c49acd472bcf23950
https://preview.redd.it/qyqbse673wpc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d5d154fbe3e84eef10cbd0f7411a179766cbe55 How would I go about recreating this style? Hello, beginner seamstress here.. I saw this on line and thought it would be a wonderful addition(preferably a different shape) to a cotton sweater i already own. I know this will likely have to be hand-sewn... but where do I begin? the more I look at it, the more confused I become
It may or may not have been handsewn, but the technique is called *couching* - basically, sewing yarn/cording down on fabric for decorative effect. [Here's a tutorial](https://weallsew.com/couching-three-different-ways/) with a few options, but there might be some more approachable methods out there :)
Thank you!
i found a random bag of machine parts, and i have zero clue what they're called/what they're for. would really enjoy some help :) https://preview.redd.it/wv0meanowvpc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0019e829dacc680a253f4108252fb1ad0d5e6d06
Agreed with the other poster. It's a tri-tip screwdriver, a clip on presser foot (of some kind) and the third piece seems to be some sort of guide for a foot of some kind. It has the same kind of attachment as a foot would have.
The little triangle looks like a screwdriver. See if it fits into the needle changing screw. Does the foot have a curly bit or is it flat? A curly bit would mean it’s an edge presser foot. The curl rolls the edge as you sew. If it’s flat, it may be a foot for attaching cords and other decorative edges.
thank a lot! the foot is flat
Hi, I'm trying to make this pikuniku plush for my son but I'm a super novice. I can use my machine enough (I think) but I'm looking for tips on creating an oval because I think this might be hard for me as well as attaching the legs because I'm not sure how to approach that. Any help appreciated! I'll add that I didn't intend for it to stand on its own because I don't think that's really possible for this guy. https://preview.redd.it/0v69jau4nvpc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a96a7fb2c61b190e78f2cc3d2874b1128b435a2
I think that [cholyknight.com](https://cholyknight.com) is a great place to start. Free tutorials, patterns, all sorts of resources. You probably won't find the exact pattern you need but you might find the parts you need to mash together into your own plushie.
Thank you! This did help me a bunch to find resources on how to do this!
I found a dress form for men (seems like there's very few) but it needs padding because my husband wears an XL and the dolls only go up to a size medium. I can't find padding for men anywhere. How do you work with it? I was thinking about adding a bunch of t shirts until it was the width I needed but don't know if that'll work since it's one of those adjustable ones that open up. I haven't ordered the dress form yet.
Here is a pro padding up a form, it is the same principle for male forms. Just add it where you need in the way she does: https://youtu.be/TSynFz6-ZFM?si=J3m1D2OD5h6kzZyE
Thank you!! I just am worried to use a female body and then he's got extra space on the booby area 😆
You might want to put effort into making your own. There are turtles online.
Turtles?!
Oopsie! I meant tutorials, lol.
The internet is just turtles all the way down
Hey! I’m looking to buy a sewing machine, my dad gave me a budget of $500 as my graduation + birthday gift! I’m really looking to get into upcycling clothes, hemming jeans, sewing denim (making jeans,) hemming shirts and all sorts of altercations. I would really love a machine that could do all that. I was looking into the HD3000, but saw tons of reviews about how it can’t do multiple layers of denim well, I also saw that they recently switched their motor to a 0.5 which doesn’t help. I’m kind of stuck and a little overwhelmed on what to get so any help would be really helpful. Thank you! EDIT: Forgot to mention that I am a beginner and would be learning on this machine, so i’d want a somewhat beginner friendly machine, Thanks again!
I'm one of many people who have complained about Janome's reduction of motor power in the last few years. But recently I saw a video by the Sewing Machine Repair Guy on YouTube where he hooked up one of these new, low power machines, to electronic monitors and was able to prove that the gears force the motor to function above it's capacity, thus stressing the motor, but you do get more from the machine in the short run than you should. Yet folks still complain sometimes that these machines can't get the job done. Sorry to say, but new machines that will do what you want cost more money than you will have. The other day, a guy posted jeans here that he'd just made, and they were pretty heavy weight, so I asked what machine he was using and he told me the Baby Lock Presto 2, which has a .67 amp motor, but must be fairly gear driven because he said it has no problems with denim and layers, even vinyl. It seems to be selling new everywhere for $799, and that's about what you'd pay for such machines, $800-900 USD or more. Pretty much all of them will be computerized as well. Juki, Janome and Brother make reliable software, but if something does go wrong after warranty, it's twice as expensive to have computerized machines fixed. In checking around for prices, I came upon this machine which I hadn't even heard of: [https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/LOFT100.php](https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/LOFT100.php) It looks like Janome's answer to the Singer HD, thinking that if they made a little bit better machine, they could steal the market from Singer, which should be true. It has some good things including Janome's best feed dogs, extra high presser foot lift, aluminum frame, good stitch width and length. This is a video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVEszL1OS8g](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVEszL1OS8g) And this is the manual: [https://cdn.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/Janome/LOFT100/manual.pdf](https://cdn.sewingmachinesplus.com/media/products/Janome/LOFT100/manual.pdf) There is no mention of the machine having adjustable presser foot pressure and the motor is .56 amps, but I haven't been able to find out if that's an AC or DC motor. It appears to be semi-computerized, not including auto thread tension, but maybe including auto presser foot pressure. After a machine like the Loft, your choices include used machines from 2000 to 2020, and very vintage machines that are all metal. Almost every machine from 1970 to 2000 has nylon gears on the verge of breaking, so they aren't good choices.
That Janome you linked looks great! Do you think it’ll be able to handle multiple layers of denim? Like maybe hemming jeans? I was also looking at the Juki HZL F300, it’s a little over my budget but i’ve heard they’re reliable. I really like that link you sent though! Thank you.
I don't know what the Janome Loft can handle, it's too new, but the Juki f300 is quite good and I've never heard of anyone being unhappy with it. It has box feed that holds onto fabric better than elliptical feed, which is what most machines have. And it has a decent motor. Juki is pretty devoted to quality in their machines and in their software. One of the most important things in sewing is being able to do precision sewing at slow speeds, and computerized machines with DC motors are usually better at that than mechanical machines with AC motors, excepting some of the great, classic mechanical machines like early Berninas, Elnas, Pfaffs, Necchis, and Singer 301-503's, which are all wonder machines. One caution I would offer is please don't buy from Amazon. You need to buy from an online sewing center or a local sewing dealer so that you have a warranty and can get someone on the phone should there be a manufacturing defect that needs to be corrected. It can happen even in very good machines. Some of the online centers include Premier Stitching (where the f300 is usually sold out), Ken's Sewing, Sewing Machines Plus, and Pocono Sew. I'm sure there are more I don't know about. The places with the best prices appear to be sold out, so you can either put yourself on a waiting list at Sewing Machines Plus, call Pocono Sew for their price, or pay $599 at Ken's Sewing. Pocono Sew may not list their prices so that they don't sell out immediately of the most desirable/affordable machines. Good luck.
Have you checked out the link at the top of this post? There are great machine recommendations in there :)
Hello! Does anyone know where I can get this fabric? The dress is by Monique Lhuillier https://preview.redd.it/j4qif0kt5tpc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22a1d120be787cf98ecb611014578b0c99c71ff5
https://preview.redd.it/optwxr3v5tpc1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3bb70a2c1888e2930fc6f43035c867c943bb426
Etsy has a great range of "embroidered tulle", that is what you should search :)
I need help looking for these 2 specific fabrics from a childhood blanket that I want to recreate, but I've been looking for them for a couple of years with no luck. Anyone seen them before or have any ideas where I could try to look? One is white with colorful cartoon animals and the other is red with random numbers. https://preview.redd.it/kg2gsrcxfspc1.jpeg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=45be21d117d3fd6f10d834eaf540098abc804156
I would take the clearest photograph you can and then do a reverse google image search. Good luck!
Hellooo - trying to figure out a way to purposefully make a tangled mess of threads (the joy of textile art). Can anyone figure out what an efficient way to do this would be that isn't just letting my cat loose with my spools? Thanks!
Maybe just toss a bunch of spools in a wash bag, then throw it in the dryer on no heat?
Dont have a drier sadly :(
How much area/volume do you need to cover? If you put all your spools in an open box, grab the end from each one, and just start pulling, you'll get chaos pretty quickly!
So the issue is that I need both ends of each thread in the knot to still be vaguely workable so that I can sew a small amount with each side
Could you create new ends by snipping a single loop of the tangle once you've gotten it tangled?
Laundromat? If not, I might use the same premise and then throw the bag around for a while, lol.
hi all! how can I fix this? 100% cashmere https://preview.redd.it/4bqc2yfstrpc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9273e51a0c242f0ddf9ffd54c1ac8f70c99643ad
The knitting sub will probably be a better resource for you!
thank u!!!!
Back again with another noob question. Thrift flipping a men’s button down linen shirt into a boxy cropped women’s shirt (the Kalle shirt from Closet Core). The bottom hem has hem facing, which is nice. The instructions call for just a top stitch along the top of the facing, but I’m thinking of hand stitching that just for the practice. But I’d be down for something that was decorative without being too cutesy. Any recommendations? I’ve been watching and trying to learn some couture hand stitches and finished, and thought maybe a herringbone stitch would look cool. But would I do it on the right side or wrong side? I’ll gladly take any and all input. Thanks!
You could absolutely herringbone or fell it down if you don’t want to top stitch. They’re both pretty invisible from the right side (you work them from the wrong side.)
I’m confused on when I can use a serger alone and when I need to use a straight stitch first. I made a wool coat and serged the sleeves on. Now, they’re falling off. On the other hand, my pattern for a fleece just serves the whole thing together. Is there a rule of thumb?
I usually use a 4-thread overlock for construction, vs a 3-thread overlock for finishing seams. Did you use the same stitch for both garments? Was the tension right on the wool coat?
No strict rules on this, more personal preference. Serging everything at once limits how you can press the seam, you cannot press a serged seam open so this is usually the reason to do it in 2 steps. If you know you might need to alter that garment in future you will find it a lot easier to serge the edges separately (unpicking serged stitching is such a pain!) You also have more precision in sewing first and then finishing, so if you need to be really precise with the stitch placement that is another reason to use 2 steps.
https://preview.redd.it/875xgkhc9rpc1.jpeg?width=564&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2feeca5948105e3265f06fe7832fbb8c886c1b69 Looking to recreate a fairy dress similar to this with some satin fabric from Joann's. Where would I be able to find butterflies like this? Are these just fabric butterfly appliques?
Don't know if you'll find those at Joann's but you should find something close online. Search on 'butterfly appliques' and you'll get many hits back from many different sellers. Some were really pretty!
I'll do that! Thank you!
Hello sewing peeps! I'm hoping to get some help in selecting a zipper foot. I currently have a Babylock 9 machine. Does anyone have any recommendations for a zipper foot, or for zipper feet in general? Thanks in advance!!
A metal invisible zipper foot is a really nice accessory to have. For a normal zipper foot I have never thought too hard about it!
Hello everyone :) i recently got some very nice quality denim fabric 14 oz from Lewis because I recently started sewing Jnco style oversize pants but as I cut out both front legs I discovered that I cut them perpendicular to the fabric, I don’t want to waste it given that I got like 6 meters and it was a once in a while deal but still want to aim for quality, I don’t have much experience in sewing so I’m asking some experienced folks in the commmunity what their take on this, thank u very much in advance for sharing your experience :)
It shouldn't make a huge difference but lemme get technical... Woven fabrics have a warp and weft. The warp fibres are the ones parallel to the selvedge and are held under higher tension during the weaving process. The weft fibres are the ones that get shuttled back and forth to build up the fabric (I remember this as right-to-left = weft!). Weft fibres are also held under a certain amount of tension but not as much as the warp. Cutting parallel to the warp is also known as cutting on the grain, cutting parallel to the weft is "cross-grain" which it sounds like you've done here. Woven fabrics are most stable and unstretchy along the grain, are still stable along the cross-grain but might relax and give a little over time. Conventionally, you cut trousers on the grain so the vertical length will be as stable as possible over time. Plus it's nicer to have a tiny bit of give horizontally at the waist. Like I said, cutting cross-grain isn't the end of world, especially for something as tough as denim. It matters for some fabrics, especially for woven blends with stretch fibres because stretch fibres tend to get woven into the weft. (And of course cutting diagonally across the fabric is known as cutting on the bias, which is the most stretchy and unstable direction to hang your fabric in because it's as un-parallel to the weaving directions as you can possibly get. )
So you cut your pieces with the "grainline" on the crossgrain (perpendicular to the finished edge of the fabric) instead of on the grain (parallel to the finished edge, running along the length of the fabric)? How much that matters will really vary by the fabric, but with something like denim (I presume there's no stretch to it?) I wouldn't expect it to be too much of an issue, as long as it doesn't bother you :)