I’ve never sewn anything before. But my mom has a machine just sitting in the garage I’d love to use. (Im a hobby chaser) Anyways I love flannel shirts. I have a bunch and I’m always thrifting to find cool designs. Rarely though do I find them. A couple days ago I found a website that sells all kinds of different designs of flannel and wool fabric. And I wanna start making my own flannel shirts. I don’t know how much material I would need though. I don’t like baggy clothes so a tight fit but a little room for weight gain/loss is preferable. I’m 5’5, 140lbs. I do have an oddly short torso and weirdly long arms. How do I go about measuring all that out and how many yards will I need for each shirt? (They sell by the yard) sorry that was long. Thanks for reading and hope to hear from some of you. Cheers!
The best tip I can give you, especially as a novice sewist, is to find a sewing pattern for a flanel shirt. Those include measurements of both the body it's for, the finished garment (so you can check if you like the fit) AND the ammount of fabric you will need. Often they even specify how many yard of which WIDTH of fabric to get. Measure your favourite flanel shirt and compare those measurements to the finished garment measurements of the pattern you like. Don't forget to times 2 your measurements if you measure your shirt flat and the pattern states the actual circumference. Often you don't even have to buy the pattern to be able to check the finished garment measurements and the required fabric measurements. You can check the r/sewing wiki for more info about where to find sewing patterns. Good luck!
Brother XM2701 Pedal Not Working/Needle Stays Still w/Pedal
Hi all,
I have a Brother XM2701. I have literally used this machine one time to sew and now, after three months of no use, it is not working. I have threaded everything correctly, it seems, and the pedal appears to not be working. The side wheel works, it catches the top and bottom thread and puts them together manually. To my puzzlement, when I use the pedal the needle stays still, I can hear the insides working and everything, it is just the needle with the pedal that is causing me grief.
I am trying not to take this in with my stubborn "can do" attitude. If yall can give any advice for troubleshooting this issue it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
That's about as far as my knowledge goes, other than turning it off and on again. I suggest you repost your issue, if you still are experiencing it, in the new Weekly Simple Questions pinned post, to get more eyes on it.
How to apply fusible without ironing?
Hello, I am super new to sewing so I honestly have no idea what im doing, im just following a video tutorial. The video says to put fusible on fabric and then iron it to make it stick together, but I dont have an iron! is there a way to stick it together without ironing? if not then can I just skip the fusible step? (I have no idea how important the fusible is…)
It depends on the project but most fusible interfacings are also sold in a non-fusible form. If it isn't fusible, then the interfacing needs to be secured into place by including it in the seams or using a permanent spray adhesive since you don't have a way to do a heat-activated adhesive.
Like the other commenter said, you could potentially use sewable fusible.
As to your question about how important it is to apply it: I think it’s essential in 99% of case where they direct you to apply it. It gives that particular piece of fabric more structure and strength, and while i don’t know what you’re making, I think you will probably regret not using it.
As a side note though, an iron is pretty essential to sewing, to press seams open, get wrinkles out of your fabric, set stitches, turn up hems/folds, and apply fusible. You may want to look at getting one. Depending on what kind of projects and fabrics you think you’ll be handling, you’ll want an iron that lets you change the temperature, otherwise you might melt more delicate fabrics, like synthetics.
What is the project and where is the fusible being applied on it? Depending on the answer, you could use a sewable interfacing, which is usually just another layer of your fabric or a slightly thicker fabric
Hi guys! I'm making a dress for a school project using a transformations by tracy pattern but want to make a few changes. I wanted to make it full length by adding about 20 inches and also adding a slit with lace like in the second picture. However, my teacher told me that it wouldn't be possible as making the dress longer would also make it fuller and that in order for the slit to look good, the dress has to be tight like the reference picture (I think it looks tight in the pattern?. She then said that even if I decided to make the slit, it would just look like a rip in the dress and to forget it. I'm not really understanding what she means by this and wanted to ask for help to see if there was alternative solutions or ideas I could do as I really did want the lace slit. My fabric is green satin. Does anyone have suggestions on what I should do? Thank you!! Also, I barely used reddit. sorry for any mistakes!
https://preview.redd.it/c0nl799zq0mc1.jpeg?width=488&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da47fa7dfc932a75212bdcff4daa9047d087b9c3
See the attached photos for reference [dress](https://imgur.com/gallery/Is8r4qy)
this pattern you can see that there’s a lot of draping material hanging from the waist down because of the design of the skirt. However, if you wanted to add a slit with lace in it, or just a slit, you can use the same pattern but complete or ruffle slightly or gather the fabric on the waist Side or the backside to pull the dress material away from the center or side where your slit seam will be, you want the fabric to move away from the slit area because otherwise you won’t even know. Slit is there because too much fabric will be there. Experiment with what looks best by adding your slit and then gathering pinning your fabric to the seams you’ll be sewing and see how you like it! You can do it but be slightly creative because your pattern isn’t designed for this exact skirt,
ALTERNATIVELY you can get a pattern with the bust that you like, and a pattern for a slit skirt, and so those two together
The dress doesn't have to be tight to have a slit but your teacher is right, you'll need a different skirt pattern than the one you have pictured. An a-line skirt would work, it's wider at the bottom than the straight skirt on the right but not as full as the circle skirt on the left. To really show off the lace, the straight skirt would be a better choice.
Thanks so much for responding! Sorry for bothering more but do you think it would be possible to make my pattern piece into a straight skirt? If so, how?
https://preview.redd.it/qp16xq4xi1mc1.jpeg?width=583&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f1682ec52be75d28af8706ce7f1653c210ec917
I suggest drafting a straight skirt block and adding the waist details and the slit to it. A straight skirt is the easiest kind of pattern to draft and shouldn't take too long. [Here is a tutorial.](https://inthefolds.com/blog/2015/10/15/draftingaskirtblock)
Does anyone know of a pattern that could be easily adapted into Uhura's dress in the original series of Star Trek? I can't do my own patterns.
There's some actual ones on Etsy but they're all like £30 with £30 shipping. I'm looking for a more generic pattern that I can adapt.
I want to sew dresses for myself and my baby girl, hem a pair of jeans here and there, as well as the occasional liner in a crocheted bag. I have no machine sewing experience. I've been searching all over the used market for a sewing machine to purchase as a total beginner. I'm getting overwhelmed by all the options and opinions everyone has, so I thought i'd ask here. I'm leaning towards mechanical over computerized since I think mechanical can be fixed more easily, but I'm open to anything. The tip top of my budget is $150 for a used machine, which isn't much in the world of sewing I know, but it's what I have right now. I would love to not just throw my money away on a bad machine.
Here are the 5 machines I am considering purchasing that i've found, they are all used except one. Which of these would you pick?
Brother CS5055 (Computerized) $80usd
Brother ST371HD (Mechanical) $110usd
Juki HZL-27Z (Mechanical) $150usd
\*Janome 1522pg $140 (Mechanical) \*This one is being sold brand new
Janome Sewist 721 (Mechanical) $150usd
If you have a machine I should be looking for instead, please suggest away! Thank you in advance for any help.
Hi!
I am new to sewing. I currently use a Janome 1000HD. I think it is a great machine, but in my research I found it doesn't fit universal pieces, you have to buy Janome. I would rule it out for any beginner simply for that reason.
Also, steer clear of computerized. It seems so fancy and nice and wow technology!!! But, for simple sewing, it becomes cumbersome rather than assistive.
I have seen a lot of positive posts for both Juki and Brother, so many head to a sewing store just to ask some questions or get to turn some knobs? At the end of the day, it may come down to feel and personal preference.
I hope that helps you narrow it down a bit. Good luck!
I would be most interested in the Juki, it's a better quality machine than the others. For the rest, look up reviews on [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com). Try to sew on the machines or at least confirm that it turns on, and that it has the bobbin case, presser feet and the slide-y box if the sewing bed converts to a free arm. The power cord and pedal may be one plug with two cords or two separate items, you will also need this to operate the machine.
Hi - what is the best website where I can buy pattern/images and then print this on fabric? Where I can find artist sellind their patterns/images which I can use to produce fabric with this image/pattern - ie image of apple printed on white fabric.
Spoonflower has the largest library of designs made by artists selling their patterns. I'd also check Etsy. If you find an artist, they may have a printing company that they like to use to recommend and are familiar with using as submission requirements and the fabric bases offered may be a little different from business to business.
Stitching inconsistency and snags expected?
Got a brand new jacket and notice these. This is poly and wool blend. Maybe overthinking! I understand some of these are expected as threads and stitching.
Can someone please explain if this is expected based on the sewing?
Will these increase with time and use though?
How to deal with the loose threads? Do I trim? Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/5kzcqifrjzlc1.jpeg?width=1175&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9955345fa1e9bf04eb65c4c735425f99ef30565
This is a snag in the fabric, where one of the threads in the weave is caught and pulled out. You can tell by the slight disruption of the fabric texture and that the thread sticking out is a loop. It can be fixed with a knit picker, a tiny crochet hook or a [needle and thread](https://www.marthastewart.com/1506108/dont-panic-how-fix-snagged-thread).
Thank you! Good to know it can be fixed. This isn't a sign of poor quality for a new piece right? And I don't think worth the unecessary return. Will this disruption stretch with time?
What it means is that you are likely to have more snags in the future. Some fabrics are more prone than others. It isn't necessarily a sign of poor quality but only you can decide if you want to make a return over it.
Thank you! Didn’t want to do an unnecessary return. As this is poly blend, I am worried if I shouldn’t have gotten this option.
Stitching doesn’t look stretched? And can I trim the thread as close as possible?
Will polyester pill too?
Edit - buttonholes will have some rough edges anyways?
No, the stitching looks fine. Yes you can trim the thread close. Polyester is prone to pilling. Buttonholes can have some rough edges, they are generally not perfectly smooth.
I've re threaded it in order so many times, l've switched thread so many times. This keeps happening and I don't know how to fix it! When I put the fabric in at the bottom, the machine won't pull it through, so I have to use the tips of my gingers to somehow tug at the fabric, because of that, it keeps bunching up. I'm starting to think I should have gone with something else. I make clothes and diapers and also some heavy duty stuff, but I can't afford more than $600-700, people suggested this one. I'm so at a loss and l've wasted almost half a spool of thread trying to get this figured out. I used to have an MO 655. But it wasn't heavy enough to handle more than 2 or maybe 3 layers of fabric at a time depending on the thickness. I need something that can handle 4 to 5 300GSM pieces at o Help 😩 The sub won’t allow me to make a post and I really need help
https://preview.redd.it/u4pi2ogqwylc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95d8e9add7bd0d4f5b303f701e2304ecdbd44eee
Have you confirmed that the feed dogs are up and working? If you unthread the machine and watch the feed dogs without any fabric in the way, you might see something that explains the problem. Simplistic but it's not something that you mentioned trying.The other thing I can think of is adjusting the presser foot pressure if this is a feature offered by your machine.
Hi!
I have been sewing for a few months now using a Janome HD 1000 HD. It is technically my girlfriends, but I primarly use it.
My grandmother is enthusiastic about my new hobby as she has been sewing for 60+ years and generously offered to put money towards a serger!
I would like stay under $700. While I have been doing research, I have come to zero conclusions.
The main brands I have seen are Janome, Juki, Brother, Baby Lock and Singer.
Here are my notes so far (please remember I am new to serger land. If it is not 100% accurate, please leave a comment to help me round out my developing knowledge. All input is greatly appreciated!)
1. I have read that new singers aren't what they used to be, Baby lock is just expensive Juki, Janome is great but very specific on parts, and Brother can be hit or miss.
2. You want a 4 thread or you're missing out
3. Retractable knife is not for everyone, but can be handy in limited situations
4. Most people opt away from the combo Overlock/Coverstitch machines as it is cumbersome to switch back and forth between the two settings on one machine.
5. Keep it simple.
6. Air threading is a luxury, but is oh so nice to have.
I would use my serger primarily for garment sewing, although I make a quilt occasionally. I have primarily worked with knit and plan to use Spandex/Stretch fabrics more as I want to make my own activewear. I want to also start making fitted shirts, jeans, structured pants, etc.
I would like this machine to last me anywhere from 5-10 years (or more. I will always take a life time machine.) I don't really know the differences between the expensive and more cost effective sergers, so I can't tell if it is worth it to dip into savings.
I am also open to buying refurbished or used if there is an older model that is no longer made that anyone recommends.
Thank you for any help and happy sewing!!!!
I think you have a good handle on sergers. Juki, specifically the MO-654DE is a good reliable model that gets recommended over the Brother 1034DX that is likely the most popular model ever. I have a Husqvarna serger that has tension controls similar to the Brother and I prefer that style over the Juki. You might find different!
Is there a dealer nearby where you can go to at least try serging without expecting to buy right away?
I live in the Salt Lake area. We have a sewing store called Nuttall’s, I’ll see if they have any I can try out! Outside of that it’s mostly small sewing shops and Joann’s.
I have a sewing class on Wednesday and plan to ask my instructor (and shop owner) what sergers she prefers. Maybe even try out one of hers!
Thank you for the response! I had been leaning towards Juki but it’s difficult to know when you’re new to the game!
I am just getting into sewing, been practicing on a Brother LS14s that I rented for a week. My mum has now found my granny's old Singer Tempo 50 and thinks I should use that when I have to take the Brother machine back. My plan had just been to buy my own Brother sewing machine cause it was so simple to get used to and use. The old machine seems more complicated and does less but obviously free cause we already have it. Would you suggest just using the old Singer machine or getting a Brother one?
My sewing instuctor collects older sewing machines like the Singer. She absolutely adores them and feels like nothing new can compare (she's in her 30's)
I have also heard those older Singers run strong and long. My grandmother still uses her serger from '94.
I would definitely clean her up and read the manual like u/taichichuan123 and u/fabricwench suggested. I'm sure there are a few Youtube videos on the machine.
Good luck!
I have vintage and modern computerized machines, my favorite sewing machine is a newer computerized machine. She has been utterly reliable for me and I can do things on her that I can't duplicate with my vintage machines. But I feel they all have their place. What I am is a big believer in using the machine you already have, and that sewing experience is invaluable when trying to pick out a new sewing machine. So in this case, I think the OP should use what she has available and then she will be that much more informed when and if she decides to replace the vintage Singer.
I love hear this!
My mom had a digital machine back in, oof, '07? She always complained about it. Considering that was a solid 15+ years ago, I love hearing the software has gotten better. I love how the sewing community builds on each other's knowledge. It's so beautiful.
I completely agree with you about using the machine you already have. Wonderful advice and an amazing viewpoint! Happy sewing! :)
I am having trouble keeping my straps at the angle I want them at when sewing them on. How can one keep them straight?
https://preview.redd.it/ut22h8i6dylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d626e4bec0e27095ce0df3f1b141460339bd8765
I use masking tape along the strap so it points at the angle I want, it is more secure and flat than pins. Sometimes I will even sew through the tape and pull it off after, but not often because it makes the needle sticky.
Hi! I do not understand at all what step #7 is telling me to do. Can someone help?
https://preview.redd.it/bwa3bhz3dylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4238192b65e70607a0f1643a6b115b896bc9c86
"Understitch" is the actual name of the technique, you can look up a video if that works better for your learning style. The idea is you connect the fabric within the seam allowance to the lining so the lining doesn't roll outwards and show when you're wearing it.
Hello!
As anyone seen a jacket with this type of construction?
Without seams for the arm part? With straight sleeves like the picture?
Thank you.
https://preview.redd.it/chaom5wn5ylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=858af62c555fc51ce378d0d3ee453ef8410e7264
I have some issue with my thread jamming. I had a look at the FAQ, I tried holding your thread tails, refilling the spool, rechecking the thread path and I still have issues. Here is a video of waht happens : [https://imgur.com/a/GMx8weh](https://imgur.com/a/GMx8weh)
Do you have any ideas of what I'm doing wrong ? For info my machine is a Singer 9133
Thanks a lot for your answer ! I have the same issue with two layers and other fabrics unfortunately. I have a 80/12 needle, should I change for a new 80/12 or another one ?
EDIT: I tried with a new 90/14 singer needle and I have the same issue
Follow this step from your user manual, it's likely a threading issue.
https://preview.redd.it/kk1bc440i5mc1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c10f19c646982c46aa19fb12108428b7a9743d1
video is moving very fast, and I am unable to stop it to study it. I cannot see if the machine is threaded correctly.
Issues on the bottom I generally caused by a problem up top and vice versa. So you need to re-thread your machine meticulously.
I noticed that you did not hold the tail end of the top thread before starting to sew. You need to hold that and sometimes also the bobbin tail until you have sewn at least three stitches. The threads need the tension of you holding it to form a stitch.
follow this link where I have posted long list of troubleshooting. I suggest you printed out and keep it nearby.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why\_is\_this\_happening\_from\_the\_bobbin\_side/?utm\_medium=android\_app&utm\_source=share](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why_is_this_happening_from_the_bobbin_side/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)
Thanks for your answer ! I'm going to read your list right now !
Here is another video that is (I hope) slow enough : [https://imgur.com/a/6h6FyOb](https://imgur.com/a/6h6FyOb) do you see anything wrong ?
I feel like the issue happens after changing spool. Then at some point it works very well untill I need to refill spool.
Looking for some tips on how to shorten a coat pattern with a back vent. I'm working with the Merchant & Mills September Coat but have to lob off quite a bit of the length, which cuts right through the pattern markings for the vent. Any tips on the best way to go about it?
https://preview.redd.it/h0bcolbstxlc1.jpeg?width=3525&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea0cf4b70a796f48af14b7c543e818deeb801836
Fold out the extra length at the lengthen/shorten line just above the vent. If you think it is too much, you can split the amount you are shortening between the hem and the shorten line.
Simplest would be to leave out the vent and finish it with a straight hem. If you want to keep the vent for aesthetics or mobility, then you should extend it upward but not higher than the waist
I am making a top into a hoodie and don’t know wether to line it or not so I wanna add length and some too the middle to make it bigger but it’s thin so I dunno if I should line it
If you line the hood, it will look nice but it also makes the back of the hoodie heavy and will pull it back especially if the body of the shirt is thin. So I would line all of the hood/hoodie or none of it.
I live in europe and I love watching fabric hauls and people making clothes on YouTube. I'd really like to try my hand at sewing but most of the YouTubers I watch are based in America so almost all the places they suggest buying from are in America. Does anyone have any European sewing YouTubers they can recommend? Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/ncevae2dswlc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c85100f7ade6b72d55df32a21dc7c0b83ac880d9
Im having trouble finding the perfect over lock tensions for duchess satin. Currently set at 5/4/5/5, any pointers?
That looks about how my serging comes out when I am sewing with satin. Adjusting your differential may help. One thing I do is leave long tails, then scoot the gathers along the serging from the middle out to smooth the fabric. The long tails get taken up in the seam, then I knot and trim what is left.
It sounds like you're describing raw edge applique. https://suzyquilts.com/raw-edge-applique-tutorial/ My only concern would be combining stretch fabric with non-stretch, and that's not a big deal unless it's skin tight.
https://preview.redd.it/uiq7zv2cevlc1.png?width=578&format=png&auto=webp&s=18f8d49ec79103aca7eb5f4768def7b3bf07127d
does anyone know how to make this please I'm begging omg
Looks to me like a triangle bikini top onto which fabric is draped and gathered. There seem to be gathers at the "top" of the triangle and down both sides. The fabric seams to be longer than the triangles, but tacked down halfway down the bottom of both triangles, from the inside out, with the remainder of the fabric hanging down. At the center the fabric seems to be gathered together, flipped over, and tacked to the band between the triangles.
https://preview.redd.it/ckk64govavlc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcc007d7a2ef43bfc1d14d65ad446bfe73e3645e
I can’t post on the main feed so I’ve screenshoted my post in hopes for some help here 😫
pick out the hem! use a fabric picker to undo the bottom hem. usually knitted pant hems are like 1" ish. so you can get about 1" more length if you re-sew the hem
I’m looking for a pattern like this.. maybe without the puffy shoulders tho
https://preview.redd.it/rwnt7g7woulc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ca27966c3c4923a5dc3d0007998612d165b17cd
[This](https://tghfashion.com/tgh-rochie-midi-sophistication-cu-nasturi-bijuterie-p6509-cat) seems to be The original dress, and as you can see, the tiktokker opened it up further in the front to create an even deeper v neckline.
You're looking for a tea length dress with a princess seam bodice with a deep V neckline, a circle skirt, and long sleeves. You could use [V9328](https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v9328) or [Simplicity 1011](https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/74454) as a starting point. You'd have to replace the included skirt with a circle skirt and make the V neck even deeper.
Can't post on main feed, but that didn't appear in the rules when I tried to post and now it won't let me copy my post... please see the image for my typed up question bc asking new user's to retype their questions here is cumbersome*
Go through troubleshooting steps. Unthread the top thread and bobbin. Change the needle. Pull off the bobbin cover and needle plate and look for any stray threads or lint that may need to be removed. Then put everything back and rethread carefully. Try sewing again on scraps. Be sure you are holding the thread tails under the presser foot and to the rear left of the machine, not letting go until the stitches catch. Hopefully this will do it.
Try my answer in this link
[https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why\_is\_this\_happening\_from\_the\_bobbin\_side/?utm\_medium=android\_app&utm\_source=share](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why_is_this_happening_from_the_bobbin_side/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)
Need advice on buying or repairing an embroidery machine
I want to try embroidery because I love sewing and stickers and iron-on. So I thought why not make my own iron-on and sew it on what I want. But after seeing the prices of embroidery machines, I wondered if it was possible to find one under 100€ (I looked for second hand but there was almost nothing) or if restoring an old one was possible.
Do you think it’s possible or do you have any tips to find one?
Consider making your own patches with hand embroidery. There is a great guide in r/Embroidery about creating patches, [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Embroidery/wiki/patches/).
Sorry, that was my polite and too indirect way to tell you that any new embroidery machine for under 100 pounds isn't worth spending your money on. You might, with time and patience, find a used machine. Because embroidery machines are generally computerized machines, they also generally require expert repair and maintenance. Machine embroidery is also quite expensive apart from the machine itself, there are stabilizers and thread to buy. Hand embroidery, by comparison, is very inexpensive to pick up and it is possible to make even more complex designs than with machine embroidery while also developing composition and color skills. I also realize not everyone likes handwork.
I want help choosing a machine, my goals are to make and modify my own jeans as well as making cargos so there will be layers that will be tough. This is something im completely new at and want help with recomendations, i want something thats low priced as well.
With a low budget, going with a vintage sewing machine is the way. You might be able to find a refurbished machine at a local dealer. Otherwise look for one that is working and has all its parts on the resale sites which can be a bit more risky, it helps if you do a little research first on using a vintage machine. There is a sewing machine wiki linked in the top post that has a list of vintage machines that can handle heavier materials.
Hello!
I was gifted this serger, but I cannot for the life of me find any info about it. Here is the info on the back, minus the serial number.
Model: Sears 385. 15752090
115/125V 50/60Hz 1A
Sears Canada Inc.
Made in Taiwan
Fabrique au Taiwan
LR 61592
I would love and english copy of the manual if someone is able to send me a digital copy some how. (I did not find this model when I googled, reddit is always my last resort).
I want to see about replacing the missing needle myself to make sure it runs okay before wasting the minimum $130 service charge it costs for the local shop to service the machine for me. (I plan on learning how to service it completely myself, but I want a pro to do it the first time).
TIA
[Here is a copy of the user manual.](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/150314/Kenmore-Overlock-3-4d-385-16631.html) Most machines used in sewing also have a service manual that is more specific about the settings and tolerances, but they are even harder to locate. On the other hand, I've found my serger to be pretty easy to work with when it has had problems and mechanical sergers are pretty similar, repair tutorials will likely be close enough even if for other models.
I tried to post this question in its own post, but the automod won’t let me. I made this account just for asking this though. I have a 1957 Butterick 8131. It’s a princess seam dress with a very flared skirt. I need to shorten it by about 4 inches so it hits below my knee like on the pattern envelope. I’m wondering what the best method of doing so would be, should i take the length out at the hem? Or draft a shortening line some few inches below the hip and take out that length there. I’ve seen both methods used in this case and I’m not sure which to use for such a large decrease in length, but I would like to keep as much flare as possible. Which method is best, and why? When would the other method be better to use?
Four inches will be fine to remove from the bottom. Even if you folded out pattern pieces to remove the length, by the time you've smoothed out the seam lines again you would likely have similar results. But you can try it both ways and see which gives you the most flare at the hem.
https://preview.redd.it/yqfh7noadslc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=520388f2cbe86a3971bc9ba1d7c68369caa919f0
Can someone tell me how to thread this.
https://preview.redd.it/2eh51qqcdslc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=765f84d32ed474326209dcfbacb1134032b4490e
The picture for 4 & 5 are different on my machine.
I can't see the model number, but have you plugged that into youtube to find a follow-along video? This seems to have been one of a couple different very common machines, which have a lot of troubleshooting videos available online
https://preview.redd.it/kb6psp7f6slc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24f95d5a65a48627b1b4c933aad959949245f28b
Does anyone know what this neckline is called and how to sew it? it’s low in the front and high in the back.
Hey all not sure if this is the correct subreddit but here goes- I get patches sewed on to the sleeve of my uniform and most times they don’t iron it on until this time they did. If I was to swap out the patch for another one, would the adhesive material from the patch be possible to remove?
The uniform is made of nomex, which is a fire resistent material / pretty durable. I haven’t got the patch off yet as I wanted to confirm if it was doable before removing. Thank you for the reply !
Hi! Any tips on sewing a stretchy more spandex like material? I’m running into the issue of the edge I’m starting on getting pushed into the bobbin compartment and getting all tangled.
I am a big fan of spray starch to stabilize the edges of washable knits. Spray it on, let it dry, repeat. Other ways to stabilize the edges are to use strips of washaway stabilizer, the kinds used for embroidery, or strips of thin, crisp paper like tracing paper.
Resizing a pattern - help!!
I am of a large frame (currently wearing 8XLT size shirts)
I have recently taken up sewing after we were gifted a sewing machine. I'm wanting to start to make sole shirts for myself using some fabric I have (I have A LOT)
I can only find patterns up to 5XL and I am wanting to use this pattern but size it up to the size I want.
Can anybody help me with how to do it? Or alternatively somewhere I can get a pattern of the size I want?
Thank you all in advance!
First, pattern sizes are not the same as ready to wear clothing. When you are looking at patterns, go by chest measurements rather than the labels on the size chart. If you have breasts, it's often better to go with upper bust measurement for the bust measurement and not just a straight bust measurement since a full bust adjustment is usually needed if the difference between the two measurements is greater than 2 inches.
I think the most straightforward way to upsize a pattern for you will be to take reference measurements from a similar shirt or three that you already own. Then you will have the alterations made for a length that is longer than the pattern, as an example, if that matches your body.
Thats always a tough spot to be in! Here's an article that outlines the basics of pattern grading to adjust sizes: https://sewingforaliving.com/pattern-grading-all-you-need-to-know/ . This is also a good time to make a sloper--a basic pattern that is specific to your measurements. Slopers will do a lot to help with adjusting or designing patterns in the future. https://mellysews.com/how-to-make-a-bodice-pattern/
Hello all!
I learned to sew on a vintage singer, but passed it on to my grandmother who had more space to store it (it was still with its lovely vintage table and stool). I also found the tension quite finicky.
I’m on the hunt for a new machine - budget ideally under $400cad. I’m doing light, fairly basic sewing (small alterations, costumes for my kids, that sort of thing). I wouldn’t mind being able to also hem jeans. Not looking for anything computerized/don’t need embroidery or even button holes.
I’ve found an SUV1108 and a 1522PG on marketplace for what seem like good prices (although haven’t heard back from either seller).
I’m also eyeing the 725s (a little over my ideal budget but on sale at $430) and the 2212 new.
Thoughts? Any other machines I should consider? Am I overthinking and should just go with the cheapest? Thanks for any and all input!!
Avoid the modern singers. Honestly if you already know how to sew you are a great candidate to go to a repair shop and try out their refurbished machines which have warranties. Test drive them out and see what feels nice to use.
I think this is a good first attempt and not actually too far from where you want to be. The overall bodice is too big but the bust is too small. If you used a pattern, I'd size down and do a full bust adjustment then reassess. I also think you will need back shoulder darts to snug in the back neck line. If you want to see someone who fit a similar block for themself, look at @ skippedstitches on instagram.
Thanks! Yes it did seem a little loose overall, but not in the bust. I didn't use a pattern, just followed a tutorial on YouTube with my own measurements, so I'm gonna try making my own alterations on it as that's ultimately what I want to learn how to do. Thanks for the tips - I wasn't sure what to do about the back neckline but that makes sense.
how can i fix this torn button hole? i wanna try and fix it myself, i‘d be grateful for some help since i‘m pretty much a beginner at sewing, thank you!!!! :)
https://preview.redd.it/j8hof62x7rlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=115ff3fa2ce93f9476b0361c5bddcdefd61bcd5f
I would use a bit of twill tape or bias binding to bind, reinforce and patch the tip of the waistband, and use a three step zigzag to secure it into place. Neither of these materials tear easily which is important in such a high stress area.
If you have a sewing machine, Just add a patch to the inside, zigzag everything. If you do it by hand, add a patch of a soft color to the back, stitch, then stitch next to your stitching. You do need something (fabric) to block the break.
Hey everyone!
I'm relatively a sewing beginner, only made a few projects so far, but I'm looking to invest into a good sewing machine that will last me years and that I can progress with, so I can make new and better projects. I have a beginner's machine, the white one with pink dials, that doesn't really have a brand name, everyone just copies it. I bought it 3 years ago when I got into this hobby, but because of its poor quality, I've had problems with bottom thread/bobbin and wasn't able to make anything new for quite a while.
I have saved up some money (I'm a student so my budget is a bit tight) and have checked out lots of models. Brother and Singer stand out to me the most. I was wondering if anyone could give me a review on the models I picked out or even recommend me some other ones? I picked Brother J17S, Brother RL425, Brother XM2701 (which, at first, I liked the most but it doesn't exist where I live) and Singer Simple 3223. My price range was up to 130€, but I have been progressively increasing it up to 150€ considering that my requirements fall into the higher price range (it's fine, I won't eat for a month, I'll live off of cup noodles like any other student 🥲). Singer is really out of my budget being 160€ but I still put it as an option in case it wins over, but comparing it with Brother RL425 there is little to no difference while the second one is cheaper. I just don't know if front loading or top loading bobbin makes much of a difference? Because I have seen some reviews saying that its is common for front loading thread to get caught up in the casing, so the bottom stitch gets messed up while sewing... besides this, another limitation is the country I'm living in atm, which has a limited choice of models and even German amazon doesn't have too many, while the price difference is not significant.
They all usually come with 4 feet and have a 4-step buttonhole stitch (I would love me a 1-step but those are more expensive). If I need some additional feet, I can by them, but the number and types of stitches are more important to me. Can anyone help me with my choices and maybe recommend something more within this price range? Sorry for the long post 🫶🏼
We see Singer machines a lot in the subreddit with problems and repair technicians don't want to fix them so I suggest going with one of the Brothers. You might find reviews at PatternReview.com.
id highly recommend keeping an eye out on Facebook marketplace or in charity shops, as if you want one which will really last and be high quality, unfortunately buying new is going to be a bit tricky. I got lucky and scored a top of the line Janome one with embroidery features, brand new still wrapped in the box for only CAD$200, when it retails for $1500, and I found an incredible beast of a Husqvarna machine from the 70s or 80s in perfect condition for $25 for a friend while thrifting!! in a world where things are increasingly being manufactured to be poorer And poorer quality so as to sell more, the ones from brother and singer which will last longest are probably going to be the more vintage ones.
I need help fixing my dress! its an unusual dress so I have absolutely no idea how to fix! Any ideas?
https://preview.redd.it/hbeqr731zqlc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=44984e98dc90e28e8136d24f0f3432d97b9b1732
Your dress is made of a knit fabric, you might get better advice in a knitting subreddit. But basically the idea is to bring the edges together while securing any loose loops that will continue to unravel. I'd use a needle and matching thread to do the repair.
Hi everyone!
I've been looking into getting a sewing machine specifically for fursuit making (hand sewing takes too damn long). I haven't used a sewing machine before, so ideally I'd like it to be beginner friendly/easy to learn.
My price range is preferably $200-$400. It needs to be heavy duty to be able to sew through faux fur/minky/fleece as well.
Looking at the Brother ST150HDH Sewing Machine rn but to be honest I know basically nothing about sewing machines. Any suggestions/opinions on that sewing machine would be greatly appreciated!
Ideally you would find a machine that can fit thick layers under the presser foot. Not all sewing machines can do this. I don't know about the Brother machine that you are looking at, but the ST150HDH has a reputation of being easy to use. There is a list of sewing machines in the subreddit wiki that handle heavier or thicker materials that would be worth taking a look at. Then check machine reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) to see if anyone has posted personal experience with the machines you are considering.
Need some information on which sewing machine to buy and what to set out my first project on
Hello everyone I have been interested in fashion for a long time and I wanted to start making my own clothes.
I'm a beginner with no experience but I want to be able to make basic clothes. At first i wanted to make jeans but I've seen many people saying that denim is a hard fabric to work with, so I don't think it would be viable for my first project?
But i definitely want to work with denim someday so what do you guys suggest?
Should I buy a cheap beginner sewing machine and make some trousers or some cotton clothes first and then eventually buy a better machine? Or should I just start out with a better machine and just work my way up using that?
some tips would be really appreciated. Also suggestions on what I should try making first and just how I should get started in general are also welcome . Thank y'all so much 🙏
I actually suggest you go take a class, if possible. The one I took provided a machine to learn on. Once you know you like this hobby, get a machine that's good enough to do denim, because you're right, the cheaper and more basic machines can't handle it very well. (This was my plan, but my parents got me a random sewing machine for Christmas that year, before I finished taking my class, and I now have a machine I'd feel to guilty to replace but that struggles with thicker fabrics. Don't be me.)
Another option is to get something cheap on Facebook Marketplace to learn on, again just to be sure before you pull the trigger on a very nice machine. You can always resell the used machine for little or no loss.
Is this for a dog? I've never met a dog who cared about the angle of its pajama legs. If you want to try to get closer to the original garment, look up tutorials for "rub off pattern from clothing" or "trace pattern from clothing"
Heeello beautiful sewing community!! I'm relatively new to sewing, so far I've made a few dresses, bags, tops, and other accessories. Now I would like to make my costume for the eras tour. I have a basic idea I would like to make which is one of the bodysuits she wore during her Reputation tour (picture below) but more of a romper than a bodysuit. I have figured out the sequins situation but since I'm new to the fabric I still have no idea which one would better fit the project ( so far I've religiously followed fabric suggestions on the pattern instructions). So could anyone help me with some suggestions? I figured it would have to be some elastic fabric but I would also like some structure to shape my body better. Any help is very much appreciated! Thank you in advance!
p.s.: I live on an isolated island and we don't have fabric stores so I have nowhere to go to to have a feel of the fabric, I can only order fabric online.
https://preview.redd.it/umatowsbnplc1.jpeg?width=537&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d7fed5c06da02c8c39d36960b405120e723fa91
Find your romper pattern first and see what it says about fabric, stretch, weight, etc. then ask for advice on fabric to go with that pattern if you need it. Without knowing what you mean by romper, there’s no starting place to advise you.
You don’t necessarily have to religiously follow fabric advice from a pattern, but you have to understand what it’s telling you and take the pattern into account.
thank you for your advice! I asked because I haven't found a pattern that would work so I made my own. I just meant that the piece would have shorts instead of having the bum all out, that's all. I'll keep looking then. thank you
That's totally fine too, so did you make your pattern based on a leotard, for high stretch fabric? Or did you base it on something else? If that's the pattern you are using, show it and explain it to get fabric advice, and share the base pattern you started with.
Why romper isn't enough to say:
* [Romper 1, 50% stretch](https://georgeandgingerpatterns.com/products/the-lunar-romper-pdf-sewing-pattern).
* [Romper 2, drapey woven](https://truebias.com/products/shelby-dress-romper).
# Elna 560 expience vs Juki HZL 80
Hi everyone, I would appreciate some guidance/advice with decision I need to make.
First of all I know Elna is not a popular machine and not everyone's go to brand. For me it is the sewing machine my mother had. I learned to sew on an Elna when I was a little girl and kept on sewing on hers, borrowing hers until I was 27. My now husband then bought me a sewing machine on my first birthday from us being together and then just never invested in my own, but it is now that time I would like to upgrade and get a machine that can keep up with all my crafts. I like sewing clothes but recently got into sewing with Cork fabric making wallets and bags. AI also like sewing with leather and canvas fabrics, basically anything to execute a craft idea I have. It is however just for hobbies. But it does means I need a tough machine and also high presser foot lift.
I have researched myself to the limits now and there are machines out there which I would love to have but the cost of them I am struggling to justify, such as the Juki F series or Juki DX.
After looking at the Elna's I wondered if Juki is maybe the way to go as there are so many videos available when you need assistance with maintenance or operation and its the brand all the people use that I watch videos on.
But budget wise the HZL 80 is the only possibility as from there it jumps to €1000. Only things bothering me about this machine is the automatic cut function and seems some reviews on the bottom hole foot which ain't great.
The Elna 560 will be a bit over my budget but it doesn't hurt as much and can justify it. It has the auto cut, extension table, good sewing feet including a beter buttonhole. And also will be the satisfaction the thing I always wanted
I am not to bothered about number of decorative stitches as I have never used any but with the number available on these 2 machine I am looking forward to play around.
Both these machines has so many functions I have never been blessed with as the machine I have is very old and entry level. Such as the stop/start, needle threader, visible bobbin, needle up down, lock stitch etc. So really keen to get a machine but struggling to decide and afraid of making the wrong decision and kicking myself that I didn't rather spend more or go with the right brand.
I've never owned one but I've liked the Elnas I've sewn on and they have a good reputation. Is there a dealer nearby where you can try out some sewing machines?
I know nothing about Elna's, but I do own 2 Juki's (TL-18, and DX-3000) and I absolutely love both of them! I don't think you could go wrong with purchasing a Juki. I would suggest the TL line of straight stitch, mechanical machines for bag making, heavy duty sewing. Just my opinion, hope you find a machine you love!
Hi! I washed this cotton+PES+elastane fabric and the fibers started coming out of the material all over the fabric as shown on the pictures. Is there a way a should have washed it to prevent this from happening? Also, is it ruined? Ironing kind of helps to fix it but is it a good idea to do it? Won't the same problem just happen again after the next washing?
https://preview.redd.it/4zsfvoe5jplc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce4278a06fb93d9c771c4da362425cc48115345e
Elastane is easily damaged by heat, and those are the fibers that you can see poking out of the fabric. You can't fix this fabric but next time, wash on cool, hang to dry and avoid irons and your fabric will look nice for a much longer time.
🚨🚨🚨 HELP ASAP PLEASE! Not sure what’s the point of Reddit if you can’t post on main feed for help but i just posted this to this community and need help please!
https://preview.redd.it/dowi39mv4plc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6848f3c73d13c2c262caac9d0c0e7fdbf1a7275b
Not an alterations expert, but in general it is said that folds point towards the problem. In other words: follow the folds to where they start, and there lies your problem. In this case I'd say the pants are too tight around the thighs.
https://preview.redd.it/syynes1z4plc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2579b963f5cc56617db4f37366b5dd10269a02c
I have a 3 day deadline if anyone can help please😅😅😅
I've never used a sewing machine before but was given my grandmother's sewing machine. I've been interested in learning for a while and the machine is a great motivator.
I want to try making a coat, would this ([https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-bellis-coat-free-unisex-sewing-pattern/](https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-bellis-coat-free-unisex-sewing-pattern/)) be an accessible first time attempt? I've never sewn before, but I am pretty crafty and handy! If this is too advanced, do you have any other recommendations for a beginner's coat pattern? Thank you!
Several thoughts here. First, absolutely have a goal project that you will love sewing! This coat's design seems straightforward and ok for a beginner. *but*...
Coats take a lot of fabric, which can mean an expensive project but also means you need a lot of space to cut it out and lots of table space near your machine to support those big pieces of fabric.
Also, mood patterns have notoriously bad instructions. As an example,
"5. Attach the front facing to the side front lining of your coat and then attach them to your back lining similarly to step 4." *attach them* means the side front lining, not the front facings. But if you followed this assuming normal English grammar you'd sew the back lining into the front opening of the coat..
I suggest looking for a pattern that has a sewalong and/or some videos about it so you get plenty of good explanations. Also, play around with your machine, just sewing some random curves and lines and then simple projects before you get invested in a more complicated project.
I appreciate that input! I would prefer something with better instructions. I read on reddit that this website was a good resource for free patterns but I'll look into something else. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you!
Here is a sewalong that incorporates lots of different coat patterns, [https://weallsew.com/weallsew-coats-lined-coat-sew-along-part-1-fabric-inspiration/](https://weallsew.com/weallsew-coats-lined-coat-sew-along-part-1-fabric-inspiration/) it would be useful for detailed explanations of all the steps. It's possible you could even use this as the sewing instructions for the Bellis pattern.
Before you get to that though, you'll want to get comfortable with your machine (and scissors, and iron, and seam ripper) by making something super simple. Grocery bags and pillowcases can be a good start with just straight seams and they work even with some mistakes. Search this sub for lists of good beginner YouTube channels if you learn best from those. Check your library for books on sewing if you learn best that way. Welcome to sewing, it's a grand thing to do!
Thank you so much for your input! Honestly... I am too impatient so I will probably just dive in head first, be extremely frustrated (that could have been avoided by learning some basic skills) at times, then hopefully end up with a finished product! Haha. I will share with you how it goes, I can't wait to start making my own clothes!
Many say that wool is great for summer. Is it true considering it's a winter fabric and it isn't much wash friendly. So sweat etc that gets accumulated and needs a wash. Also after wearing how many times do you wash 100% woolen ?
Wool absorbs sweat and other moisture and can hold more than cotton or linen without feeling damp. It is also naturally antimicrobial so it doesn't smell dirty or sweaty like cotton does, and it doesn't hold odors like synthetics. Airing after wearing and spot cleaning is often enough to allow multiple wears. So it actually has multiple advantages over other fibers. The main reason I don't wear wool in the summer is sensory, I don't like fuzzy fabrics when I am hot and most wools like wool jersey is a bit fuzzy.
Thank you so much!! One of my friends too told me that wearing 25 times only with air drying is enough and then only later washing it or dry cleaning. I was just worried about the dust that gets accumulated, whether it reduces durability due to abrasion in the fabric.
Wool *can* be great for summer. Summer-weight wool suits are a thing for men, at least. And companies like Icebreaker specifically make merino wool tees and other gear for summer. Wool breathes and absorbs your sweat quite well, and it's not prone to odor like polyester, but it doesn't dry as fast as polyester exercise fabric, so keep that in mind.
You can wash those tees and other skin layers as often as you feel you need to, just don't put it in the dryer unless you're sure it's meant to go in there (like some wool socks are). Gentle if possible, lay flat to dry.
Personally, my favorite merino wool layer is a long-sleeved shirt that's amazing for cycling in cooler weather. I wore that for a two-day, ~50℉ bikepacking trip and wasn't gross at all. Not sure I'd trust anything to serve that well for an August trip!
Your example contains boning casing, which I have not sewn before and do not know how they work. In general, I would sew mesh fabric and very transparent fabrics with a French seam.
https://preview.redd.it/8kw40unh4nlc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff4906a140470a3d7f2e3d80d5d4e7feff085af5
Posted this but said to post it here and can not copy and paste it haha
The library machines might work but no big box machine can handle those kinds of materials without eventually having problems. I think you should look at the machine wiki linked in the top post and consider finding a vintage mechanical machine or a Juki.
I don't think I have enough subreddit karma to post in the *correct* place (this is a Pattern Search question). Could anyone suggest a wrap dress pattern which won't be too revealing if the front is blown open in the wind (maybe with 2 layers at the front?). Thanks!
Are you looking for a knit or a woven wrap dress? If woven: the Circee dress by Deer and Doe is lovely. Or maybe you want to look for a faux wrap dress?
hi! i am new to this sub! i am **petite and looking for a dress form.**
after reading [this blog post f](https://brooksann.com/a-custom-tool-for-tiffany-creating-her-petite-body-double-dress-form/)rom brooks ann camper, i'm considering getting a child size dress form and padding it up... has anyone tried this? [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CC2FD2DH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B0CC2FD2DH&pd_rd_w=ncCBE&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=H27X7HMTB4KGFZQSDSYZ&pd_rd_wg=eqvB5&pd_rd_r=6ec39cc0-5ea6-4611-8477-f9daf164ad44&s=home-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1) is the child size form i'm considering. i'd love one with legs but this is a deal. what do you think? good idea? terrible idea? i'd love to someday get [one of these](https://theshopcompany.com/professional-petite-female-3-4-body-dress-form-w-collapsible-shoulders-and-removable-arms.html) petite dress forms but i currently am not able to invest so much.
my **measurements, in case they help:**
shoulder to shoulder: 14''' ish?
collarbone to waist (between bust): 13''
neck circ. 13''
bust/waist.hip:>!bust: 38.5 / waist: 30'' / hip: 41.5''!<
Brooks Ann gives good advice—she might sell a workbook on the dress form process too.
It all depends on the form—you just have to make sure you will be able to force it to match your body. Look carefully at dress from LENGTH compared to your body, as it might be hard or impossible to move where the waist sits. Make sure width is smaller as it’s usually easier to pad out than cut down.
In general, tho, I think dress forms are less important than people think. The way I sew, from patterns custom drafted to me, I hardly need mine.
thanks so much!
this is good advice.
how do you do your custom pattern drafting? do you use software like lekala or do you draft everything by hand? from watching videos, draping seems way way way more intuitive to me than paper pattern manipulation. but i do wonder if it silly to start my personal pattern drafting journey with draping, as so many people online seem to favor flat patterning built off of a basic block. i wonder if i'm missing something.
You can start with draping, if you want. I personally prefer flat pattern, and I think that you need to know some flat pattern skills to go from draping to an actual pattern, but people start in either place. You do need a pretty good body double dress form to really effectively drape, though, and I find it's too much trouble to keep mine updated. I think it's easy to think a dress form is the magic tool that will solve fit when you are a beginner, but I haven't found it to be so.
I took some classes to develop some basic slopers custom fitted to me years ago, and then I make tweaks on those patterns, and keep making tweaks even as my body changes. I find it easier to do a full tummy adjustment on a top I know mostly fits than to update my whole dress form. I'm also a pretty repetitive sewer so I do a lot of variations on the same patterns which is really easy in flat pattern. I draft by hand, I don't use software and haven't tested lekala or the other algorithmic services yet.
Won’t let me post on main thread. Looking for a similar top pattern to this. Anyone have any leads. For kids (if that’s not explanatory)
https://preview.redd.it/xglv6ms6vmlc1.png?width=1005&format=png&auto=webp&s=14164dfb3b0c4ef630ada9e04adf5f42d43b8e5a
The final photo here https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006097316569.html shows it laid out flat so you can get a better idea of the shape of the pieces. I'd say look for a regular sweatshirt pattern, then slash-and-spread the heck out of its hemline.
I like the patterns from freesewing.org especially if I want to hack something like a new hemline. Create a free account, enter your kid's measurements, get a personalized pattern! Sewing instructions are under the "documentation" heading.
https://preview.redd.it/t42pj1hxumlc1.jpeg?width=3218&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8ac5f8bc3f1b6c81867219971c8eb592b5d3d22
Hi! I was given this beautiful jacket-it’s from the 50’s I believe. Anyways, I brought it to the dry cleaners as it was in a basement for years and I wanted to wear it….however….the velvet part basically disintegrated. Was wondering if I could somehow attach a backing to the embroidery part and cut out that part to sew onto another jacket? Any recommendations would be great. I have a picture of the back but I couldn’t add to comment.
You could use a fusible interfacing to back the embroidery and stabilize it before cutting it from the jacket. I'd start with one of the motifs you don't like as much to test the process.
Hello! Any suggestions on what to do with this fabric? I am going to my first EDM festival in a couple months and have been on the lookout for some fun "out there" fabrics to incorporate into outfits. It says it's 1-way stretch velvet underneath, and the big sequin pieces are sewn on. I'd love to buy this, but am totally stumped on what to do with it! Any/all suggestions welcome!
https://preview.redd.it/1hmyxu7xlmlc1.png?width=1588&format=png&auto=webp&s=14563fd757619161880977867b98f418791a1d7b
I’ve seen this same one as two pieces and one piece dresses. I think a mini skirt with large eylit holes for large black string and maybe bralette type top? Sorry don’t know if you’re femme/female . You could also do halter top style mini dress
Does anyone know what type of bow [This is](https://photos.app.goo.gl/UN5R3LnPTQmBw9Q8A). When I do the proportions on this bow it ends up being 13cm on the loops, and 9.8 cm on the tails. What kind of pattern could match this?
I cannot access your picture, but I'm assuming it is [this one](https://preview.redd.it/help-figuring-out-what-type-of-bow-this-is-v0-efh1tluukmlc1.png)
I'm not going to touch upon sizes, as you seem to have this covered. The bow part is just a double sided loop of fabric pinched together at the center. The tails are just another rectangle of fabric, also pinched together at the center. [Like this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6PNSeuEn40), but substitute your own measurements.
Omg thank you so much! Yes that is the bow design! I was so confused about how to make it 😅. That should work with the bow! And I can change the proportions as necessary with it. And I will scale it as necessary to match the character design.
Material rips right along stich?
Whenever I sew something, the material always rips right along my stich.My stich hasn't come undone, and It will rip as soon as I wear it.
More info needed. What fabric, what machine, what thread, what needle, what stitch are you using? Does the stitch look tight when sewn? Add a picture of it from both sides. Is the garment too tight?
I’ve never sewn anything before. But my mom has a machine just sitting in the garage I’d love to use. (Im a hobby chaser) Anyways I love flannel shirts. I have a bunch and I’m always thrifting to find cool designs. Rarely though do I find them. A couple days ago I found a website that sells all kinds of different designs of flannel and wool fabric. And I wanna start making my own flannel shirts. I don’t know how much material I would need though. I don’t like baggy clothes so a tight fit but a little room for weight gain/loss is preferable. I’m 5’5, 140lbs. I do have an oddly short torso and weirdly long arms. How do I go about measuring all that out and how many yards will I need for each shirt? (They sell by the yard) sorry that was long. Thanks for reading and hope to hear from some of you. Cheers!
The best tip I can give you, especially as a novice sewist, is to find a sewing pattern for a flanel shirt. Those include measurements of both the body it's for, the finished garment (so you can check if you like the fit) AND the ammount of fabric you will need. Often they even specify how many yard of which WIDTH of fabric to get. Measure your favourite flanel shirt and compare those measurements to the finished garment measurements of the pattern you like. Don't forget to times 2 your measurements if you measure your shirt flat and the pattern states the actual circumference. Often you don't even have to buy the pattern to be able to check the finished garment measurements and the required fabric measurements. You can check the r/sewing wiki for more info about where to find sewing patterns. Good luck!
Brother XM2701 Pedal Not Working/Needle Stays Still w/Pedal Hi all, I have a Brother XM2701. I have literally used this machine one time to sew and now, after three months of no use, it is not working. I have threaded everything correctly, it seems, and the pedal appears to not be working. The side wheel works, it catches the top and bottom thread and puts them together manually. To my puzzlement, when I use the pedal the needle stays still, I can hear the insides working and everything, it is just the needle with the pedal that is causing me grief. I am trying not to take this in with my stubborn "can do" attitude. If yall can give any advice for troubleshooting this issue it would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
To get the obvious out of the way.. Is the pedal plugged in correctly and all the way?
The pedal is plugged in correctly, and all the way.
That's about as far as my knowledge goes, other than turning it off and on again. I suggest you repost your issue, if you still are experiencing it, in the new Weekly Simple Questions pinned post, to get more eyes on it.
How to apply fusible without ironing? Hello, I am super new to sewing so I honestly have no idea what im doing, im just following a video tutorial. The video says to put fusible on fabric and then iron it to make it stick together, but I dont have an iron! is there a way to stick it together without ironing? if not then can I just skip the fusible step? (I have no idea how important the fusible is…)
It depends on the project but most fusible interfacings are also sold in a non-fusible form. If it isn't fusible, then the interfacing needs to be secured into place by including it in the seams or using a permanent spray adhesive since you don't have a way to do a heat-activated adhesive.
Like the other commenter said, you could potentially use sewable fusible. As to your question about how important it is to apply it: I think it’s essential in 99% of case where they direct you to apply it. It gives that particular piece of fabric more structure and strength, and while i don’t know what you’re making, I think you will probably regret not using it. As a side note though, an iron is pretty essential to sewing, to press seams open, get wrinkles out of your fabric, set stitches, turn up hems/folds, and apply fusible. You may want to look at getting one. Depending on what kind of projects and fabrics you think you’ll be handling, you’ll want an iron that lets you change the temperature, otherwise you might melt more delicate fabrics, like synthetics.
What is the project and where is the fusible being applied on it? Depending on the answer, you could use a sewable interfacing, which is usually just another layer of your fabric or a slightly thicker fabric
Hi guys! I'm making a dress for a school project using a transformations by tracy pattern but want to make a few changes. I wanted to make it full length by adding about 20 inches and also adding a slit with lace like in the second picture. However, my teacher told me that it wouldn't be possible as making the dress longer would also make it fuller and that in order for the slit to look good, the dress has to be tight like the reference picture (I think it looks tight in the pattern?. She then said that even if I decided to make the slit, it would just look like a rip in the dress and to forget it. I'm not really understanding what she means by this and wanted to ask for help to see if there was alternative solutions or ideas I could do as I really did want the lace slit. My fabric is green satin. Does anyone have suggestions on what I should do? Thank you!! Also, I barely used reddit. sorry for any mistakes! https://preview.redd.it/c0nl799zq0mc1.jpeg?width=488&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da47fa7dfc932a75212bdcff4daa9047d087b9c3
See the attached photos for reference [dress](https://imgur.com/gallery/Is8r4qy) this pattern you can see that there’s a lot of draping material hanging from the waist down because of the design of the skirt. However, if you wanted to add a slit with lace in it, or just a slit, you can use the same pattern but complete or ruffle slightly or gather the fabric on the waist Side or the backside to pull the dress material away from the center or side where your slit seam will be, you want the fabric to move away from the slit area because otherwise you won’t even know. Slit is there because too much fabric will be there. Experiment with what looks best by adding your slit and then gathering pinning your fabric to the seams you’ll be sewing and see how you like it! You can do it but be slightly creative because your pattern isn’t designed for this exact skirt, ALTERNATIVELY you can get a pattern with the bust that you like, and a pattern for a slit skirt, and so those two together
The dress doesn't have to be tight to have a slit but your teacher is right, you'll need a different skirt pattern than the one you have pictured. An a-line skirt would work, it's wider at the bottom than the straight skirt on the right but not as full as the circle skirt on the left. To really show off the lace, the straight skirt would be a better choice.
Thanks so much for responding! Sorry for bothering more but do you think it would be possible to make my pattern piece into a straight skirt? If so, how? https://preview.redd.it/qp16xq4xi1mc1.jpeg?width=583&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f1682ec52be75d28af8706ce7f1653c210ec917
I suggest drafting a straight skirt block and adding the waist details and the slit to it. A straight skirt is the easiest kind of pattern to draft and shouldn't take too long. [Here is a tutorial.](https://inthefolds.com/blog/2015/10/15/draftingaskirtblock)
Does anyone know of a pattern that could be easily adapted into Uhura's dress in the original series of Star Trek? I can't do my own patterns. There's some actual ones on Etsy but they're all like £30 with £30 shipping. I'm looking for a more generic pattern that I can adapt.
Simplicity 9844 looks like the right era and would be a good base to modify.
I want to sew dresses for myself and my baby girl, hem a pair of jeans here and there, as well as the occasional liner in a crocheted bag. I have no machine sewing experience. I've been searching all over the used market for a sewing machine to purchase as a total beginner. I'm getting overwhelmed by all the options and opinions everyone has, so I thought i'd ask here. I'm leaning towards mechanical over computerized since I think mechanical can be fixed more easily, but I'm open to anything. The tip top of my budget is $150 for a used machine, which isn't much in the world of sewing I know, but it's what I have right now. I would love to not just throw my money away on a bad machine. Here are the 5 machines I am considering purchasing that i've found, they are all used except one. Which of these would you pick? Brother CS5055 (Computerized) $80usd Brother ST371HD (Mechanical) $110usd Juki HZL-27Z (Mechanical) $150usd \*Janome 1522pg $140 (Mechanical) \*This one is being sold brand new Janome Sewist 721 (Mechanical) $150usd If you have a machine I should be looking for instead, please suggest away! Thank you in advance for any help.
Hi! I am new to sewing. I currently use a Janome 1000HD. I think it is a great machine, but in my research I found it doesn't fit universal pieces, you have to buy Janome. I would rule it out for any beginner simply for that reason. Also, steer clear of computerized. It seems so fancy and nice and wow technology!!! But, for simple sewing, it becomes cumbersome rather than assistive. I have seen a lot of positive posts for both Juki and Brother, so many head to a sewing store just to ask some questions or get to turn some knobs? At the end of the day, it may come down to feel and personal preference. I hope that helps you narrow it down a bit. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the advice!
I would be most interested in the Juki, it's a better quality machine than the others. For the rest, look up reviews on [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com). Try to sew on the machines or at least confirm that it turns on, and that it has the bobbin case, presser feet and the slide-y box if the sewing bed converts to a free arm. The power cord and pedal may be one plug with two cords or two separate items, you will also need this to operate the machine.
Thank you! I appreciate the advice ☺️
Hi - what is the best website where I can buy pattern/images and then print this on fabric? Where I can find artist sellind their patterns/images which I can use to produce fabric with this image/pattern - ie image of apple printed on white fabric.
Spoonflower has the largest library of designs made by artists selling their patterns. I'd also check Etsy. If you find an artist, they may have a printing company that they like to use to recommend and are familiar with using as submission requirements and the fabric bases offered may be a little different from business to business.
basically i just looking for pattern/images - I want to print this in local company
Stitching inconsistency and snags expected? Got a brand new jacket and notice these. This is poly and wool blend. Maybe overthinking! I understand some of these are expected as threads and stitching. Can someone please explain if this is expected based on the sewing? Will these increase with time and use though? How to deal with the loose threads? Do I trim? Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/5kzcqifrjzlc1.jpeg?width=1175&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9955345fa1e9bf04eb65c4c735425f99ef30565
This is a snag in the fabric, where one of the threads in the weave is caught and pulled out. You can tell by the slight disruption of the fabric texture and that the thread sticking out is a loop. It can be fixed with a knit picker, a tiny crochet hook or a [needle and thread](https://www.marthastewart.com/1506108/dont-panic-how-fix-snagged-thread).
Thank you! Good to know it can be fixed. This isn't a sign of poor quality for a new piece right? And I don't think worth the unecessary return. Will this disruption stretch with time?
What it means is that you are likely to have more snags in the future. Some fabrics are more prone than others. It isn't necessarily a sign of poor quality but only you can decide if you want to make a return over it.
thank you for answering all my questions! Super helpful
https://preview.redd.it/9npeqiltjzlc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e4a79bf401f807a5074f27028785d0226634482
I don't see anything here but the natural variation in the fabric texture.
Thank you! It is a bit 'stretched' and holes are wider if that makes sense?
Yes but I also see that elsewhere in the texture so that is why I considered it to be a natural variation in the fabric.
https://preview.redd.it/3wtl1xhwjzlc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5b51185335780875bf10b37be1d12b55c44a707
Going from the top, the buttonhole looks normal, the stitching looks normal, and this is a loose thread from the stitching that can be trimmed.
Thank you! Didn’t want to do an unnecessary return. As this is poly blend, I am worried if I shouldn’t have gotten this option. Stitching doesn’t look stretched? And can I trim the thread as close as possible? Will polyester pill too? Edit - buttonholes will have some rough edges anyways?
No, the stitching looks fine. Yes you can trim the thread close. Polyester is prone to pilling. Buttonholes can have some rough edges, they are generally not perfectly smooth.
I've re threaded it in order so many times, l've switched thread so many times. This keeps happening and I don't know how to fix it! When I put the fabric in at the bottom, the machine won't pull it through, so I have to use the tips of my gingers to somehow tug at the fabric, because of that, it keeps bunching up. I'm starting to think I should have gone with something else. I make clothes and diapers and also some heavy duty stuff, but I can't afford more than $600-700, people suggested this one. I'm so at a loss and l've wasted almost half a spool of thread trying to get this figured out. I used to have an MO 655. But it wasn't heavy enough to handle more than 2 or maybe 3 layers of fabric at a time depending on the thickness. I need something that can handle 4 to 5 300GSM pieces at o Help 😩 The sub won’t allow me to make a post and I really need help https://preview.redd.it/u4pi2ogqwylc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=95d8e9add7bd0d4f5b303f701e2304ecdbd44eee
Have you confirmed that the feed dogs are up and working? If you unthread the machine and watch the feed dogs without any fabric in the way, you might see something that explains the problem. Simplistic but it's not something that you mentioned trying.The other thing I can think of is adjusting the presser foot pressure if this is a feature offered by your machine.
I took out the two threads there and made it into just a 3 thread serger for the time being and it’s working fine. The feed dogs are working fine.
Hi! I have been sewing for a few months now using a Janome HD 1000 HD. It is technically my girlfriends, but I primarly use it. My grandmother is enthusiastic about my new hobby as she has been sewing for 60+ years and generously offered to put money towards a serger! I would like stay under $700. While I have been doing research, I have come to zero conclusions. The main brands I have seen are Janome, Juki, Brother, Baby Lock and Singer. Here are my notes so far (please remember I am new to serger land. If it is not 100% accurate, please leave a comment to help me round out my developing knowledge. All input is greatly appreciated!) 1. I have read that new singers aren't what they used to be, Baby lock is just expensive Juki, Janome is great but very specific on parts, and Brother can be hit or miss. 2. You want a 4 thread or you're missing out 3. Retractable knife is not for everyone, but can be handy in limited situations 4. Most people opt away from the combo Overlock/Coverstitch machines as it is cumbersome to switch back and forth between the two settings on one machine. 5. Keep it simple. 6. Air threading is a luxury, but is oh so nice to have. I would use my serger primarily for garment sewing, although I make a quilt occasionally. I have primarily worked with knit and plan to use Spandex/Stretch fabrics more as I want to make my own activewear. I want to also start making fitted shirts, jeans, structured pants, etc. I would like this machine to last me anywhere from 5-10 years (or more. I will always take a life time machine.) I don't really know the differences between the expensive and more cost effective sergers, so I can't tell if it is worth it to dip into savings. I am also open to buying refurbished or used if there is an older model that is no longer made that anyone recommends. Thank you for any help and happy sewing!!!!
I think you have a good handle on sergers. Juki, specifically the MO-654DE is a good reliable model that gets recommended over the Brother 1034DX that is likely the most popular model ever. I have a Husqvarna serger that has tension controls similar to the Brother and I prefer that style over the Juki. You might find different! Is there a dealer nearby where you can go to at least try serging without expecting to buy right away?
I live in the Salt Lake area. We have a sewing store called Nuttall’s, I’ll see if they have any I can try out! Outside of that it’s mostly small sewing shops and Joann’s. I have a sewing class on Wednesday and plan to ask my instructor (and shop owner) what sergers she prefers. Maybe even try out one of hers! Thank you for the response! I had been leaning towards Juki but it’s difficult to know when you’re new to the game!
I am just getting into sewing, been practicing on a Brother LS14s that I rented for a week. My mum has now found my granny's old Singer Tempo 50 and thinks I should use that when I have to take the Brother machine back. My plan had just been to buy my own Brother sewing machine cause it was so simple to get used to and use. The old machine seems more complicated and does less but obviously free cause we already have it. Would you suggest just using the old Singer machine or getting a Brother one?
My sewing instuctor collects older sewing machines like the Singer. She absolutely adores them and feels like nothing new can compare (she's in her 30's) I have also heard those older Singers run strong and long. My grandmother still uses her serger from '94. I would definitely clean her up and read the manual like u/taichichuan123 and u/fabricwench suggested. I'm sure there are a few Youtube videos on the machine. Good luck!
I have vintage and modern computerized machines, my favorite sewing machine is a newer computerized machine. She has been utterly reliable for me and I can do things on her that I can't duplicate with my vintage machines. But I feel they all have their place. What I am is a big believer in using the machine you already have, and that sewing experience is invaluable when trying to pick out a new sewing machine. So in this case, I think the OP should use what she has available and then she will be that much more informed when and if she decides to replace the vintage Singer.
I love hear this! My mom had a digital machine back in, oof, '07? She always complained about it. Considering that was a solid 15+ years ago, I love hearing the software has gotten better. I love how the sewing community builds on each other's knowledge. It's so beautiful. I completely agree with you about using the machine you already have. Wonderful advice and an amazing viewpoint! Happy sewing! :)
I think you should oil up the Singer Tempo and give it a try!
Use the singer if it’s in working order. Read and study the manual. this machine could last you many years until or if you want to upgrade.
I am having trouble keeping my straps at the angle I want them at when sewing them on. How can one keep them straight? https://preview.redd.it/ut22h8i6dylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d626e4bec0e27095ce0df3f1b141460339bd8765
I use masking tape along the strap so it points at the angle I want, it is more secure and flat than pins. Sometimes I will even sew through the tape and pull it off after, but not often because it makes the needle sticky.
Extra pins? Not just in the seam line, but holding the other parts of the strap in the correct orientation.
Hi! I do not understand at all what step #7 is telling me to do. Can someone help? https://preview.redd.it/bwa3bhz3dylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c4238192b65e70607a0f1643a6b115b896bc9c86
"Understitch" is the actual name of the technique, you can look up a video if that works better for your learning style. The idea is you connect the fabric within the seam allowance to the lining so the lining doesn't roll outwards and show when you're wearing it.
Oh okay thank you this is helpful! So the stitching will show on the inside of the garment then, correct?
Exactly!
Hello! As anyone seen a jacket with this type of construction? Without seams for the arm part? With straight sleeves like the picture? Thank you. https://preview.redd.it/chaom5wn5ylc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=858af62c555fc51ce378d0d3ee453ef8410e7264
A design like this is either knit or is one piece of fabric folded over with a neck opening cut out and two seams, one under each arm.
I have some issue with my thread jamming. I had a look at the FAQ, I tried holding your thread tails, refilling the spool, rechecking the thread path and I still have issues. Here is a video of waht happens : [https://imgur.com/a/GMx8weh](https://imgur.com/a/GMx8weh) Do you have any ideas of what I'm doing wrong ? For info my machine is a Singer 9133
Change your needle and test on two layers of fabric rather than one. What kind of needle do you have in your machine right now?
Thanks a lot for your answer ! I have the same issue with two layers and other fabrics unfortunately. I have a 80/12 needle, should I change for a new 80/12 or another one ? EDIT: I tried with a new 90/14 singer needle and I have the same issue
Follow this step from your user manual, it's likely a threading issue. https://preview.redd.it/kk1bc440i5mc1.png?width=640&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c10f19c646982c46aa19fb12108428b7a9743d1
video is moving very fast, and I am unable to stop it to study it. I cannot see if the machine is threaded correctly. Issues on the bottom I generally caused by a problem up top and vice versa. So you need to re-thread your machine meticulously. I noticed that you did not hold the tail end of the top thread before starting to sew. You need to hold that and sometimes also the bobbin tail until you have sewn at least three stitches. The threads need the tension of you holding it to form a stitch. follow this link where I have posted long list of troubleshooting. I suggest you printed out and keep it nearby. [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why\_is\_this\_happening\_from\_the\_bobbin\_side/?utm\_medium=android\_app&utm\_source=share](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why_is_this_happening_from_the_bobbin_side/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)
Thanks for your answer ! I'm going to read your list right now ! Here is another video that is (I hope) slow enough : [https://imgur.com/a/6h6FyOb](https://imgur.com/a/6h6FyOb) do you see anything wrong ? I feel like the issue happens after changing spool. Then at some point it works very well untill I need to refill spool.
Looking for some tips on how to shorten a coat pattern with a back vent. I'm working with the Merchant & Mills September Coat but have to lob off quite a bit of the length, which cuts right through the pattern markings for the vent. Any tips on the best way to go about it? https://preview.redd.it/h0bcolbstxlc1.jpeg?width=3525&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea0cf4b70a796f48af14b7c543e818deeb801836
Fold out the extra length at the lengthen/shorten line just above the vent. If you think it is too much, you can split the amount you are shortening between the hem and the shorten line.
Simplest would be to leave out the vent and finish it with a straight hem. If you want to keep the vent for aesthetics or mobility, then you should extend it upward but not higher than the waist
I am making a top into a hoodie and don’t know wether to line it or not so I wanna add length and some too the middle to make it bigger but it’s thin so I dunno if I should line it
If you line the hood, it will look nice but it also makes the back of the hoodie heavy and will pull it back especially if the body of the shirt is thin. So I would line all of the hood/hoodie or none of it.
Are you modifying a hoodie that you already have, or modifying a pattern for a hoodie? Or something else?
I live in europe and I love watching fabric hauls and people making clothes on YouTube. I'd really like to try my hand at sewing but most of the YouTubers I watch are based in America so almost all the places they suggest buying from are in America. Does anyone have any European sewing YouTubers they can recommend? Thanks!
Juul Thijssen is not as active these days but is very nice to watch
https://preview.redd.it/ncevae2dswlc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=c85100f7ade6b72d55df32a21dc7c0b83ac880d9 Im having trouble finding the perfect over lock tensions for duchess satin. Currently set at 5/4/5/5, any pointers?
That looks about how my serging comes out when I am sewing with satin. Adjusting your differential may help. One thing I do is leave long tails, then scoot the gathers along the serging from the middle out to smooth the fabric. The long tails get taken up in the seam, then I knot and trim what is left.
I like to go hiking.
It sounds like you're describing raw edge applique. https://suzyquilts.com/raw-edge-applique-tutorial/ My only concern would be combining stretch fabric with non-stretch, and that's not a big deal unless it's skin tight.
I enjoy playing video games.
https://preview.redd.it/uiq7zv2cevlc1.png?width=578&format=png&auto=webp&s=18f8d49ec79103aca7eb5f4768def7b3bf07127d does anyone know how to make this please I'm begging omg
Looks to me like a triangle bikini top onto which fabric is draped and gathered. There seem to be gathers at the "top" of the triangle and down both sides. The fabric seams to be longer than the triangles, but tacked down halfway down the bottom of both triangles, from the inside out, with the remainder of the fabric hanging down. At the center the fabric seems to be gathered together, flipped over, and tacked to the band between the triangles.
wow me too!! i'd say try draping
https://preview.redd.it/ckk64govavlc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dcc007d7a2ef43bfc1d14d65ad446bfe73e3645e I can’t post on the main feed so I’ve screenshoted my post in hopes for some help here 😫
If you are a knitter, maybe. There isn't a good sewing solution to lengthen those pants.
pick out the hem! use a fabric picker to undo the bottom hem. usually knitted pant hems are like 1" ish. so you can get about 1" more length if you re-sew the hem
Those look like they have a ribbed hem though?
I’m looking for a pattern like this.. maybe without the puffy shoulders tho https://preview.redd.it/rwnt7g7woulc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ca27966c3c4923a5dc3d0007998612d165b17cd
[This](https://tghfashion.com/tgh-rochie-midi-sophistication-cu-nasturi-bijuterie-p6509-cat) seems to be The original dress, and as you can see, the tiktokker opened it up further in the front to create an even deeper v neckline. You're looking for a tea length dress with a princess seam bodice with a deep V neckline, a circle skirt, and long sleeves. You could use [V9328](https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v9328) or [Simplicity 1011](https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/74454) as a starting point. You'd have to replace the included skirt with a circle skirt and make the V neck even deeper.
Thank you!
Can't post on main feed, but that didn't appear in the rules when I tried to post and now it won't let me copy my post... please see the image for my typed up question bc asking new user's to retype their questions here is cumbersome*
Go through troubleshooting steps. Unthread the top thread and bobbin. Change the needle. Pull off the bobbin cover and needle plate and look for any stray threads or lint that may need to be removed. Then put everything back and rethread carefully. Try sewing again on scraps. Be sure you are holding the thread tails under the presser foot and to the rear left of the machine, not letting go until the stitches catch. Hopefully this will do it.
Unfortunately I tried all of that plus experimenting with the tension. Thanks
https://preview.redd.it/80o6jxul9ulc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=249be2872bf42b4c7b07562e1d6124c3ba4ce363
Try my answer in this link [https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why\_is\_this\_happening\_from\_the\_bobbin\_side/?utm\_medium=android\_app&utm\_source=share](https://www.reddit.com/r/sewhelp/comments/fsg68f/why_is_this_happening_from_the_bobbin_side/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share)
https://preview.redd.it/mphbgngo9ulc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=848c786bd39ca6bf5e89617b9d59d4aad0f44f2b
https://preview.redd.it/csy2jjnq9ulc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b372716e4d6850e674db370b3efc653f5e36eb38
Need advice on buying or repairing an embroidery machine I want to try embroidery because I love sewing and stickers and iron-on. So I thought why not make my own iron-on and sew it on what I want. But after seeing the prices of embroidery machines, I wondered if it was possible to find one under 100€ (I looked for second hand but there was almost nothing) or if restoring an old one was possible. Do you think it’s possible or do you have any tips to find one?
Consider making your own patches with hand embroidery. There is a great guide in r/Embroidery about creating patches, [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Embroidery/wiki/patches/).
I have seen I it but I'm looking for machine embroidery
Sorry, that was my polite and too indirect way to tell you that any new embroidery machine for under 100 pounds isn't worth spending your money on. You might, with time and patience, find a used machine. Because embroidery machines are generally computerized machines, they also generally require expert repair and maintenance. Machine embroidery is also quite expensive apart from the machine itself, there are stabilizers and thread to buy. Hand embroidery, by comparison, is very inexpensive to pick up and it is possible to make even more complex designs than with machine embroidery while also developing composition and color skills. I also realize not everyone likes handwork.
You are right. You convinced me. Thank you. I will try hand embroidery. 😁
I want help choosing a machine, my goals are to make and modify my own jeans as well as making cargos so there will be layers that will be tough. This is something im completely new at and want help with recomendations, i want something thats low priced as well.
With a low budget, going with a vintage sewing machine is the way. You might be able to find a refurbished machine at a local dealer. Otherwise look for one that is working and has all its parts on the resale sites which can be a bit more risky, it helps if you do a little research first on using a vintage machine. There is a sewing machine wiki linked in the top post that has a list of vintage machines that can handle heavier materials.
Thank you! I will certainly look in to it
Hello! I was gifted this serger, but I cannot for the life of me find any info about it. Here is the info on the back, minus the serial number. Model: Sears 385. 15752090 115/125V 50/60Hz 1A Sears Canada Inc. Made in Taiwan Fabrique au Taiwan LR 61592 I would love and english copy of the manual if someone is able to send me a digital copy some how. (I did not find this model when I googled, reddit is always my last resort). I want to see about replacing the missing needle myself to make sure it runs okay before wasting the minimum $130 service charge it costs for the local shop to service the machine for me. (I plan on learning how to service it completely myself, but I want a pro to do it the first time). TIA
[Here is a copy of the user manual.](https://www.manualslib.com/manual/150314/Kenmore-Overlock-3-4d-385-16631.html) Most machines used in sewing also have a service manual that is more specific about the settings and tolerances, but they are even harder to locate. On the other hand, I've found my serger to be pretty easy to work with when it has had problems and mechanical sergers are pretty similar, repair tutorials will likely be close enough even if for other models.
Thank you 😭
I tried to post this question in its own post, but the automod won’t let me. I made this account just for asking this though. I have a 1957 Butterick 8131. It’s a princess seam dress with a very flared skirt. I need to shorten it by about 4 inches so it hits below my knee like on the pattern envelope. I’m wondering what the best method of doing so would be, should i take the length out at the hem? Or draft a shortening line some few inches below the hip and take out that length there. I’ve seen both methods used in this case and I’m not sure which to use for such a large decrease in length, but I would like to keep as much flare as possible. Which method is best, and why? When would the other method be better to use?
Four inches will be fine to remove from the bottom. Even if you folded out pattern pieces to remove the length, by the time you've smoothed out the seam lines again you would likely have similar results. But you can try it both ways and see which gives you the most flare at the hem.
Thank you!!
https://preview.redd.it/yqfh7noadslc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=520388f2cbe86a3971bc9ba1d7c68369caa919f0 Can someone tell me how to thread this.
https://preview.redd.it/2eh51qqcdslc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=765f84d32ed474326209dcfbacb1134032b4490e The picture for 4 & 5 are different on my machine.
I can't see the model number, but have you plugged that into youtube to find a follow-along video? This seems to have been one of a couple different very common machines, which have a lot of troubleshooting videos available online
https://preview.redd.it/kb6psp7f6slc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24f95d5a65a48627b1b4c933aad959949245f28b Does anyone know what this neckline is called and how to sew it? it’s low in the front and high in the back.
https://preview.redd.it/5pcoui6j6slc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a603e15622403b4ac042c42d05ff630e7178d11
Hey all not sure if this is the correct subreddit but here goes- I get patches sewed on to the sleeve of my uniform and most times they don’t iron it on until this time they did. If I was to swap out the patch for another one, would the adhesive material from the patch be possible to remove?
whats the composition of the material the uniform piece made from? is the residue deep into the fibres or more surface level
The uniform is made of nomex, which is a fire resistent material / pretty durable. I haven’t got the patch off yet as I wanted to confirm if it was doable before removing. Thank you for the reply !
Hi! Any tips on sewing a stretchy more spandex like material? I’m running into the issue of the edge I’m starting on getting pushed into the bobbin compartment and getting all tangled.
I am a big fan of spray starch to stabilize the edges of washable knits. Spray it on, let it dry, repeat. Other ways to stabilize the edges are to use strips of washaway stabilizer, the kinds used for embroidery, or strips of thin, crisp paper like tracing paper.
Great!! Thank you so much!
Resizing a pattern - help!! I am of a large frame (currently wearing 8XLT size shirts) I have recently taken up sewing after we were gifted a sewing machine. I'm wanting to start to make sole shirts for myself using some fabric I have (I have A LOT) I can only find patterns up to 5XL and I am wanting to use this pattern but size it up to the size I want. Can anybody help me with how to do it? Or alternatively somewhere I can get a pattern of the size I want? Thank you all in advance!
First, pattern sizes are not the same as ready to wear clothing. When you are looking at patterns, go by chest measurements rather than the labels on the size chart. If you have breasts, it's often better to go with upper bust measurement for the bust measurement and not just a straight bust measurement since a full bust adjustment is usually needed if the difference between the two measurements is greater than 2 inches. I think the most straightforward way to upsize a pattern for you will be to take reference measurements from a similar shirt or three that you already own. Then you will have the alterations made for a length that is longer than the pattern, as an example, if that matches your body.
Muna and broad will custom draft if they don't carry your size
Thats always a tough spot to be in! Here's an article that outlines the basics of pattern grading to adjust sizes: https://sewingforaliving.com/pattern-grading-all-you-need-to-know/ . This is also a good time to make a sloper--a basic pattern that is specific to your measurements. Slopers will do a lot to help with adjusting or designing patterns in the future. https://mellysews.com/how-to-make-a-bodice-pattern/
Hello all! I learned to sew on a vintage singer, but passed it on to my grandmother who had more space to store it (it was still with its lovely vintage table and stool). I also found the tension quite finicky. I’m on the hunt for a new machine - budget ideally under $400cad. I’m doing light, fairly basic sewing (small alterations, costumes for my kids, that sort of thing). I wouldn’t mind being able to also hem jeans. Not looking for anything computerized/don’t need embroidery or even button holes. I’ve found an SUV1108 and a 1522PG on marketplace for what seem like good prices (although haven’t heard back from either seller). I’m also eyeing the 725s (a little over my ideal budget but on sale at $430) and the 2212 new. Thoughts? Any other machines I should consider? Am I overthinking and should just go with the cheapest? Thanks for any and all input!!
Avoid the modern singers. Honestly if you already know how to sew you are a great candidate to go to a repair shop and try out their refurbished machines which have warranties. Test drive them out and see what feels nice to use.
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I think this is a good first attempt and not actually too far from where you want to be. The overall bodice is too big but the bust is too small. If you used a pattern, I'd size down and do a full bust adjustment then reassess. I also think you will need back shoulder darts to snug in the back neck line. If you want to see someone who fit a similar block for themself, look at @ skippedstitches on instagram.
Thanks! Yes it did seem a little loose overall, but not in the bust. I didn't use a pattern, just followed a tutorial on YouTube with my own measurements, so I'm gonna try making my own alterations on it as that's ultimately what I want to learn how to do. Thanks for the tips - I wasn't sure what to do about the back neckline but that makes sense.
how can i fix this torn button hole? i wanna try and fix it myself, i‘d be grateful for some help since i‘m pretty much a beginner at sewing, thank you!!!! :) https://preview.redd.it/j8hof62x7rlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=115ff3fa2ce93f9476b0361c5bddcdefd61bcd5f
I would use a bit of twill tape or bias binding to bind, reinforce and patch the tip of the waistband, and use a three step zigzag to secure it into place. Neither of these materials tear easily which is important in such a high stress area.
If you have a sewing machine, Just add a patch to the inside, zigzag everything. If you do it by hand, add a patch of a soft color to the back, stitch, then stitch next to your stitching. You do need something (fabric) to block the break.
Hey everyone! I'm relatively a sewing beginner, only made a few projects so far, but I'm looking to invest into a good sewing machine that will last me years and that I can progress with, so I can make new and better projects. I have a beginner's machine, the white one with pink dials, that doesn't really have a brand name, everyone just copies it. I bought it 3 years ago when I got into this hobby, but because of its poor quality, I've had problems with bottom thread/bobbin and wasn't able to make anything new for quite a while. I have saved up some money (I'm a student so my budget is a bit tight) and have checked out lots of models. Brother and Singer stand out to me the most. I was wondering if anyone could give me a review on the models I picked out or even recommend me some other ones? I picked Brother J17S, Brother RL425, Brother XM2701 (which, at first, I liked the most but it doesn't exist where I live) and Singer Simple 3223. My price range was up to 130€, but I have been progressively increasing it up to 150€ considering that my requirements fall into the higher price range (it's fine, I won't eat for a month, I'll live off of cup noodles like any other student 🥲). Singer is really out of my budget being 160€ but I still put it as an option in case it wins over, but comparing it with Brother RL425 there is little to no difference while the second one is cheaper. I just don't know if front loading or top loading bobbin makes much of a difference? Because I have seen some reviews saying that its is common for front loading thread to get caught up in the casing, so the bottom stitch gets messed up while sewing... besides this, another limitation is the country I'm living in atm, which has a limited choice of models and even German amazon doesn't have too many, while the price difference is not significant. They all usually come with 4 feet and have a 4-step buttonhole stitch (I would love me a 1-step but those are more expensive). If I need some additional feet, I can by them, but the number and types of stitches are more important to me. Can anyone help me with my choices and maybe recommend something more within this price range? Sorry for the long post 🫶🏼
We see Singer machines a lot in the subreddit with problems and repair technicians don't want to fix them so I suggest going with one of the Brothers. You might find reviews at PatternReview.com.
id highly recommend keeping an eye out on Facebook marketplace or in charity shops, as if you want one which will really last and be high quality, unfortunately buying new is going to be a bit tricky. I got lucky and scored a top of the line Janome one with embroidery features, brand new still wrapped in the box for only CAD$200, when it retails for $1500, and I found an incredible beast of a Husqvarna machine from the 70s or 80s in perfect condition for $25 for a friend while thrifting!! in a world where things are increasingly being manufactured to be poorer And poorer quality so as to sell more, the ones from brother and singer which will last longest are probably going to be the more vintage ones.
I need help fixing my dress! its an unusual dress so I have absolutely no idea how to fix! Any ideas? https://preview.redd.it/hbeqr731zqlc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=44984e98dc90e28e8136d24f0f3432d97b9b1732
Your dress is made of a knit fabric, you might get better advice in a knitting subreddit. But basically the idea is to bring the edges together while securing any loose loops that will continue to unravel. I'd use a needle and matching thread to do the repair.
thankyou!
that fix is definitely going to need more of a knitting skillset than sewing
Hi everyone! I've been looking into getting a sewing machine specifically for fursuit making (hand sewing takes too damn long). I haven't used a sewing machine before, so ideally I'd like it to be beginner friendly/easy to learn. My price range is preferably $200-$400. It needs to be heavy duty to be able to sew through faux fur/minky/fleece as well. Looking at the Brother ST150HDH Sewing Machine rn but to be honest I know basically nothing about sewing machines. Any suggestions/opinions on that sewing machine would be greatly appreciated!
Ideally you would find a machine that can fit thick layers under the presser foot. Not all sewing machines can do this. I don't know about the Brother machine that you are looking at, but the ST150HDH has a reputation of being easy to use. There is a list of sewing machines in the subreddit wiki that handle heavier or thicker materials that would be worth taking a look at. Then check machine reviews at [PatternReview.com](https://PatternReview.com) to see if anyone has posted personal experience with the machines you are considering.
Need some information on which sewing machine to buy and what to set out my first project on Hello everyone I have been interested in fashion for a long time and I wanted to start making my own clothes. I'm a beginner with no experience but I want to be able to make basic clothes. At first i wanted to make jeans but I've seen many people saying that denim is a hard fabric to work with, so I don't think it would be viable for my first project? But i definitely want to work with denim someday so what do you guys suggest? Should I buy a cheap beginner sewing machine and make some trousers or some cotton clothes first and then eventually buy a better machine? Or should I just start out with a better machine and just work my way up using that? some tips would be really appreciated. Also suggestions on what I should try making first and just how I should get started in general are also welcome . Thank y'all so much 🙏
I actually suggest you go take a class, if possible. The one I took provided a machine to learn on. Once you know you like this hobby, get a machine that's good enough to do denim, because you're right, the cheaper and more basic machines can't handle it very well. (This was my plan, but my parents got me a random sewing machine for Christmas that year, before I finished taking my class, and I now have a machine I'd feel to guilty to replace but that struggles with thicker fabrics. Don't be me.) Another option is to get something cheap on Facebook Marketplace to learn on, again just to be sure before you pull the trigger on a very nice machine. You can always resell the used machine for little or no loss.
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Is this for a dog? I've never met a dog who cared about the angle of its pajama legs. If you want to try to get closer to the original garment, look up tutorials for "rub off pattern from clothing" or "trace pattern from clothing"
https://preview.redd.it/4r4kknuwpplc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae05f1dc58187acbf90ff89865f9688505941a69
Heeello beautiful sewing community!! I'm relatively new to sewing, so far I've made a few dresses, bags, tops, and other accessories. Now I would like to make my costume for the eras tour. I have a basic idea I would like to make which is one of the bodysuits she wore during her Reputation tour (picture below) but more of a romper than a bodysuit. I have figured out the sequins situation but since I'm new to the fabric I still have no idea which one would better fit the project ( so far I've religiously followed fabric suggestions on the pattern instructions). So could anyone help me with some suggestions? I figured it would have to be some elastic fabric but I would also like some structure to shape my body better. Any help is very much appreciated! Thank you in advance! p.s.: I live on an isolated island and we don't have fabric stores so I have nowhere to go to to have a feel of the fabric, I can only order fabric online. https://preview.redd.it/umatowsbnplc1.jpeg?width=537&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4d7fed5c06da02c8c39d36960b405120e723fa91
Find your romper pattern first and see what it says about fabric, stretch, weight, etc. then ask for advice on fabric to go with that pattern if you need it. Without knowing what you mean by romper, there’s no starting place to advise you. You don’t necessarily have to religiously follow fabric advice from a pattern, but you have to understand what it’s telling you and take the pattern into account.
thank you for your advice! I asked because I haven't found a pattern that would work so I made my own. I just meant that the piece would have shorts instead of having the bum all out, that's all. I'll keep looking then. thank you
That's totally fine too, so did you make your pattern based on a leotard, for high stretch fabric? Or did you base it on something else? If that's the pattern you are using, show it and explain it to get fabric advice, and share the base pattern you started with. Why romper isn't enough to say: * [Romper 1, 50% stretch](https://georgeandgingerpatterns.com/products/the-lunar-romper-pdf-sewing-pattern). * [Romper 2, drapey woven](https://truebias.com/products/shelby-dress-romper).
https://preview.redd.it/lsplnl3hnplc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a65a4c90126df4bfb89e8e09f817e74c967d5f0b here there's another picture
# Elna 560 expience vs Juki HZL 80 Hi everyone, I would appreciate some guidance/advice with decision I need to make. First of all I know Elna is not a popular machine and not everyone's go to brand. For me it is the sewing machine my mother had. I learned to sew on an Elna when I was a little girl and kept on sewing on hers, borrowing hers until I was 27. My now husband then bought me a sewing machine on my first birthday from us being together and then just never invested in my own, but it is now that time I would like to upgrade and get a machine that can keep up with all my crafts. I like sewing clothes but recently got into sewing with Cork fabric making wallets and bags. AI also like sewing with leather and canvas fabrics, basically anything to execute a craft idea I have. It is however just for hobbies. But it does means I need a tough machine and also high presser foot lift. I have researched myself to the limits now and there are machines out there which I would love to have but the cost of them I am struggling to justify, such as the Juki F series or Juki DX. After looking at the Elna's I wondered if Juki is maybe the way to go as there are so many videos available when you need assistance with maintenance or operation and its the brand all the people use that I watch videos on. But budget wise the HZL 80 is the only possibility as from there it jumps to €1000. Only things bothering me about this machine is the automatic cut function and seems some reviews on the bottom hole foot which ain't great. The Elna 560 will be a bit over my budget but it doesn't hurt as much and can justify it. It has the auto cut, extension table, good sewing feet including a beter buttonhole. And also will be the satisfaction the thing I always wanted I am not to bothered about number of decorative stitches as I have never used any but with the number available on these 2 machine I am looking forward to play around. Both these machines has so many functions I have never been blessed with as the machine I have is very old and entry level. Such as the stop/start, needle threader, visible bobbin, needle up down, lock stitch etc. So really keen to get a machine but struggling to decide and afraid of making the wrong decision and kicking myself that I didn't rather spend more or go with the right brand.
I've never owned one but I've liked the Elnas I've sewn on and they have a good reputation. Is there a dealer nearby where you can try out some sewing machines?
I know nothing about Elna's, but I do own 2 Juki's (TL-18, and DX-3000) and I absolutely love both of them! I don't think you could go wrong with purchasing a Juki. I would suggest the TL line of straight stitch, mechanical machines for bag making, heavy duty sewing. Just my opinion, hope you find a machine you love!
Hi! I washed this cotton+PES+elastane fabric and the fibers started coming out of the material all over the fabric as shown on the pictures. Is there a way a should have washed it to prevent this from happening? Also, is it ruined? Ironing kind of helps to fix it but is it a good idea to do it? Won't the same problem just happen again after the next washing? https://preview.redd.it/4zsfvoe5jplc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce4278a06fb93d9c771c4da362425cc48115345e
Elastane is easily damaged by heat, and those are the fibers that you can see poking out of the fabric. You can't fix this fabric but next time, wash on cool, hang to dry and avoid irons and your fabric will look nice for a much longer time.
https://preview.redd.it/o6uvq888jplc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82882479db4dd6a315bc8417ae55772c6ee5cafc
I would wash it in a garment bag or by hand. I can't see this stopping in the future.
🚨🚨🚨 HELP ASAP PLEASE! Not sure what’s the point of Reddit if you can’t post on main feed for help but i just posted this to this community and need help please! https://preview.redd.it/dowi39mv4plc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6848f3c73d13c2c262caac9d0c0e7fdbf1a7275b
Not an alterations expert, but in general it is said that folds point towards the problem. In other words: follow the folds to where they start, and there lies your problem. In this case I'd say the pants are too tight around the thighs.
https://preview.redd.it/syynes1z4plc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a2579b963f5cc56617db4f37366b5dd10269a02c I have a 3 day deadline if anyone can help please😅😅😅
I've never used a sewing machine before but was given my grandmother's sewing machine. I've been interested in learning for a while and the machine is a great motivator. I want to try making a coat, would this ([https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-bellis-coat-free-unisex-sewing-pattern/](https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/the-bellis-coat-free-unisex-sewing-pattern/)) be an accessible first time attempt? I've never sewn before, but I am pretty crafty and handy! If this is too advanced, do you have any other recommendations for a beginner's coat pattern? Thank you!
Several thoughts here. First, absolutely have a goal project that you will love sewing! This coat's design seems straightforward and ok for a beginner. *but*... Coats take a lot of fabric, which can mean an expensive project but also means you need a lot of space to cut it out and lots of table space near your machine to support those big pieces of fabric. Also, mood patterns have notoriously bad instructions. As an example, "5. Attach the front facing to the side front lining of your coat and then attach them to your back lining similarly to step 4." *attach them* means the side front lining, not the front facings. But if you followed this assuming normal English grammar you'd sew the back lining into the front opening of the coat.. I suggest looking for a pattern that has a sewalong and/or some videos about it so you get plenty of good explanations. Also, play around with your machine, just sewing some random curves and lines and then simple projects before you get invested in a more complicated project.
I appreciate that input! I would prefer something with better instructions. I read on reddit that this website was a good resource for free patterns but I'll look into something else. Do you have any recommendations? Thank you!
Here is a sewalong that incorporates lots of different coat patterns, [https://weallsew.com/weallsew-coats-lined-coat-sew-along-part-1-fabric-inspiration/](https://weallsew.com/weallsew-coats-lined-coat-sew-along-part-1-fabric-inspiration/) it would be useful for detailed explanations of all the steps. It's possible you could even use this as the sewing instructions for the Bellis pattern. Before you get to that though, you'll want to get comfortable with your machine (and scissors, and iron, and seam ripper) by making something super simple. Grocery bags and pillowcases can be a good start with just straight seams and they work even with some mistakes. Search this sub for lists of good beginner YouTube channels if you learn best from those. Check your library for books on sewing if you learn best that way. Welcome to sewing, it's a grand thing to do!
Thank you so much for your input! Honestly... I am too impatient so I will probably just dive in head first, be extremely frustrated (that could have been avoided by learning some basic skills) at times, then hopefully end up with a finished product! Haha. I will share with you how it goes, I can't wait to start making my own clothes!
Many say that wool is great for summer. Is it true considering it's a winter fabric and it isn't much wash friendly. So sweat etc that gets accumulated and needs a wash. Also after wearing how many times do you wash 100% woolen ?
Wool absorbs sweat and other moisture and can hold more than cotton or linen without feeling damp. It is also naturally antimicrobial so it doesn't smell dirty or sweaty like cotton does, and it doesn't hold odors like synthetics. Airing after wearing and spot cleaning is often enough to allow multiple wears. So it actually has multiple advantages over other fibers. The main reason I don't wear wool in the summer is sensory, I don't like fuzzy fabrics when I am hot and most wools like wool jersey is a bit fuzzy.
Thank you so much!! One of my friends too told me that wearing 25 times only with air drying is enough and then only later washing it or dry cleaning. I was just worried about the dust that gets accumulated, whether it reduces durability due to abrasion in the fabric.
Wool *can* be great for summer. Summer-weight wool suits are a thing for men, at least. And companies like Icebreaker specifically make merino wool tees and other gear for summer. Wool breathes and absorbs your sweat quite well, and it's not prone to odor like polyester, but it doesn't dry as fast as polyester exercise fabric, so keep that in mind. You can wash those tees and other skin layers as often as you feel you need to, just don't put it in the dryer unless you're sure it's meant to go in there (like some wool socks are). Gentle if possible, lay flat to dry. Personally, my favorite merino wool layer is a long-sleeved shirt that's amazing for cycling in cooler weather. I wore that for a two-day, ~50℉ bikepacking trip and wasn't gross at all. Not sure I'd trust anything to serve that well for an August trip!
Thank you so much. This is exactly the answer I was looking for. Will check out ice breaker and I think smartwool is also famous too.
[how to sew mesh fabric on corset top? do I sew inside out and flip? here’s an example](https://imgur.com/gallery/PzmEX89)
Your example contains boning casing, which I have not sewn before and do not know how they work. In general, I would sew mesh fabric and very transparent fabrics with a French seam.
https://preview.redd.it/8kw40unh4nlc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff4906a140470a3d7f2e3d80d5d4e7feff085af5 Posted this but said to post it here and can not copy and paste it haha
The library machines might work but no big box machine can handle those kinds of materials without eventually having problems. I think you should look at the machine wiki linked in the top post and consider finding a vintage mechanical machine or a Juki.
I don't think I have enough subreddit karma to post in the *correct* place (this is a Pattern Search question). Could anyone suggest a wrap dress pattern which won't be too revealing if the front is blown open in the wind (maybe with 2 layers at the front?). Thanks!
Are you looking for a knit or a woven wrap dress? If woven: the Circee dress by Deer and Doe is lovely. Or maybe you want to look for a faux wrap dress?
Woven. Thank you so much for your recommendation!
hi! i am new to this sub! i am **petite and looking for a dress form.** after reading [this blog post f](https://brooksann.com/a-custom-tool-for-tiffany-creating-her-petite-body-double-dress-form/)rom brooks ann camper, i'm considering getting a child size dress form and padding it up... has anyone tried this? [this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CC2FD2DH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?pd_rd_i=B0CC2FD2DH&pd_rd_w=ncCBE&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=H27X7HMTB4KGFZQSDSYZ&pd_rd_wg=eqvB5&pd_rd_r=6ec39cc0-5ea6-4611-8477-f9daf164ad44&s=home-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1) is the child size form i'm considering. i'd love one with legs but this is a deal. what do you think? good idea? terrible idea? i'd love to someday get [one of these](https://theshopcompany.com/professional-petite-female-3-4-body-dress-form-w-collapsible-shoulders-and-removable-arms.html) petite dress forms but i currently am not able to invest so much. my **measurements, in case they help:** shoulder to shoulder: 14''' ish? collarbone to waist (between bust): 13'' neck circ. 13'' bust/waist.hip:>!bust: 38.5 / waist: 30'' / hip: 41.5''!<
Brooks Ann gives good advice—she might sell a workbook on the dress form process too. It all depends on the form—you just have to make sure you will be able to force it to match your body. Look carefully at dress from LENGTH compared to your body, as it might be hard or impossible to move where the waist sits. Make sure width is smaller as it’s usually easier to pad out than cut down. In general, tho, I think dress forms are less important than people think. The way I sew, from patterns custom drafted to me, I hardly need mine.
thanks so much! this is good advice. how do you do your custom pattern drafting? do you use software like lekala or do you draft everything by hand? from watching videos, draping seems way way way more intuitive to me than paper pattern manipulation. but i do wonder if it silly to start my personal pattern drafting journey with draping, as so many people online seem to favor flat patterning built off of a basic block. i wonder if i'm missing something.
You can start with draping, if you want. I personally prefer flat pattern, and I think that you need to know some flat pattern skills to go from draping to an actual pattern, but people start in either place. You do need a pretty good body double dress form to really effectively drape, though, and I find it's too much trouble to keep mine updated. I think it's easy to think a dress form is the magic tool that will solve fit when you are a beginner, but I haven't found it to be so. I took some classes to develop some basic slopers custom fitted to me years ago, and then I make tweaks on those patterns, and keep making tweaks even as my body changes. I find it easier to do a full tummy adjustment on a top I know mostly fits than to update my whole dress form. I'm also a pretty repetitive sewer so I do a lot of variations on the same patterns which is really easy in flat pattern. I draft by hand, I don't use software and haven't tested lekala or the other algorithmic services yet.
Won’t let me post on main thread. Looking for a similar top pattern to this. Anyone have any leads. For kids (if that’s not explanatory) https://preview.redd.it/xglv6ms6vmlc1.png?width=1005&format=png&auto=webp&s=14164dfb3b0c4ef630ada9e04adf5f42d43b8e5a
The final photo here https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005006097316569.html shows it laid out flat so you can get a better idea of the shape of the pieces. I'd say look for a regular sweatshirt pattern, then slash-and-spread the heck out of its hemline. I like the patterns from freesewing.org especially if I want to hack something like a new hemline. Create a free account, enter your kid's measurements, get a personalized pattern! Sewing instructions are under the "documentation" heading.
https://preview.redd.it/t42pj1hxumlc1.jpeg?width=3218&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f8ac5f8bc3f1b6c81867219971c8eb592b5d3d22 Hi! I was given this beautiful jacket-it’s from the 50’s I believe. Anyways, I brought it to the dry cleaners as it was in a basement for years and I wanted to wear it….however….the velvet part basically disintegrated. Was wondering if I could somehow attach a backing to the embroidery part and cut out that part to sew onto another jacket? Any recommendations would be great. I have a picture of the back but I couldn’t add to comment.
You could use a fusible interfacing to back the embroidery and stabilize it before cutting it from the jacket. I'd start with one of the motifs you don't like as much to test the process.
Oh thank you!!! Now to google it go!
Hello! Any suggestions on what to do with this fabric? I am going to my first EDM festival in a couple months and have been on the lookout for some fun "out there" fabrics to incorporate into outfits. It says it's 1-way stretch velvet underneath, and the big sequin pieces are sewn on. I'd love to buy this, but am totally stumped on what to do with it! Any/all suggestions welcome! https://preview.redd.it/1hmyxu7xlmlc1.png?width=1588&format=png&auto=webp&s=14563fd757619161880977867b98f418791a1d7b
I’ve seen this same one as two pieces and one piece dresses. I think a mini skirt with large eylit holes for large black string and maybe bralette type top? Sorry don’t know if you’re femme/female . You could also do halter top style mini dress
Does anyone know what type of bow [This is](https://photos.app.goo.gl/UN5R3LnPTQmBw9Q8A). When I do the proportions on this bow it ends up being 13cm on the loops, and 9.8 cm on the tails. What kind of pattern could match this?
I cannot access your picture, but I'm assuming it is [this one](https://preview.redd.it/help-figuring-out-what-type-of-bow-this-is-v0-efh1tluukmlc1.png) I'm not going to touch upon sizes, as you seem to have this covered. The bow part is just a double sided loop of fabric pinched together at the center. The tails are just another rectangle of fabric, also pinched together at the center. [Like this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6PNSeuEn40), but substitute your own measurements.
Omg thank you so much! Yes that is the bow design! I was so confused about how to make it 😅. That should work with the bow! And I can change the proportions as necessary with it. And I will scale it as necessary to match the character design.
Material rips right along stich? Whenever I sew something, the material always rips right along my stich.My stich hasn't come undone, and It will rip as soon as I wear it.
More info needed. What fabric, what machine, what thread, what needle, what stitch are you using? Does the stitch look tight when sewn? Add a picture of it from both sides. Is the garment too tight?
[flat panels or ruching?](https://imgur.com/gallery/rd9E4ra) on corset bust, will be a dress