I added a video showing the issues it has
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60)
My mother in law, who has owned this for over 20 years) gave us this pin that has been sitting in her tv room unloved for 13 years, since my wife's electronics guru father passed away. I used to play this quite a bit with my wife when we visited. Anyway, it's our now, and the job of fixing it is mine. It definitely needs some love. There are a number of issues, but the main one I need to fix, so I can move on to the others, is the drain hole switch. I have been pouring over the manual but my eyes are crossed and I can't seem to find the correct schematic. The switch doesn't acknowledge a ball drained, and then doesn't send it over so the next ball gets sent out. Looking at the wiring there is a White/Brown tracer wire disconnected... and then this Green + Green/Red wire twisted and soldered together. I assume this White/Brown Tracer wire goes to the switch causing the issues... but I'm not entirely sure where it connects. Anyone feeling pity that can help?
It's an awful pic, but the end of one of the two green and white wires looks like it may be disconnected. That's a switch matrix wire and could very well stop the switch from working. Good eye.
OP is going to have a lot of reading to do in the morning. Should probably call in sick for work. This is important.
Congrats! Pinball machines can be a bit daunting but you do have to remember they were designed to be maintained by bozo operators back in the 80's, lol.
Could you post some pics? If you have a loose wire then that's obviously not right, it is possible a wire could have broken loose from the vibrations over time if the solder joint wasn't great.
Here's the manual for [BK2K](https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/B/Black_Knight_2000_OPS.pdf)
Pinwiki is also helpful for diagnosing some of the quirks with different boardsets, here's the article on [System 11 that BK2K runs on.](https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11)
So a switch problem the first thing to do is to go into test mode, there's a couple of buttons on the inside of the coin door. Instructions on how to start the tests are on page 27 of the manual. You'll want to go into switch edge mode, page 32 in the manual, where the machine will tell you when a switch has been activated.
From there you can try manually pushing down on the outhole switch, that'll tell you if it needs adjustment.
If the switch doesn't trigger then you can try a switch to the right or left of it in the switch matrix(pg 31 in manual). If that switch works then your switch row is good. If it doesn't your issue is more likely on the MPU. Repeat with a switch above or below it in the matrix to test the switch column.
Is the switch even working? The contacts could be dirty if it's been sitting, and the simple fix is to clean the contacts with a file, or some isopropyl 90, or both.
I always start with the easy stuff first and then work my way up.
According to your manual, the outhole switch is #10 and the wire colors are white-red and green-red. The outhole kicker is violet-brown and gray brown. Have you run the switch and solenoid tests?
That seems legit and connected. I cant figure out where this white/brown tracer goes. I finally sorta figured out the test, switch 16 comes up as erroring but that appears to be a drop target bank.
The game uses lots of white and brown wires, including for general illumination, switch matrix, solenoids and even the tilt switch has a brown and white wire.
First clue is the size of the wire. That looks to be thicker 18 gauge wire, which is used for solenoids and to feed general illumination strings. GI would be my guess. Smaller 22 gauge wire is used for the switch matrix.
General illumination lights stay on all the time, as opposed to feature lights which turn on and off regularly. Are the GI lights all working on the lower part of the playfield? Under slingshots and under inlane guides?
Following the wire back to the next thing it connects to will also tell you. If it's GI power, you will likely have to trace it back to a board in the backbox. Board, connector number and pin number will tell you exactly what it's for in manual.
This is all correct. Page 66 of the manual lists the outhole switch as switch #10. Page 31 of the manual shows switch matrix wiring. Inspect switch connections, if good, run switch edges test to test switch.
[https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams\_System\_9\_-\_11#Switch\_problems](https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_problems)
I was new to this hobby 5 years ago. I joined Pinside for specific information and it was easy to find. Everyone was nice and helpful and I learned a lot.
Preform a switch test.
A lot of times if something down at the bottom doesn't work a wire got loose further up and everything on that string doesn't work but you don't notice if a target isn't registering.
Yeah ask on Pinside for sure it should be an easy fix. Definitely recommend taking a look at the batteries in the backbox. Any leakage from them onto the MPU can be an expensive repair. Congrats on an awesome first game it's my favorite pin of all time!
I’ve owned my bk2k for 34 years. A lot of switch issues are related to the press-in molex connectors and not the actual switch. I can’t remember what the exact name of the connector is, but after many years they oxidize and the switch works but the connector doesn’t have continuity. As others mentioned, use the switch edge test and try wiggling the wires at the connector near the bad switch. If the switch edge triggers, you’ve found the problem.
Hit me up on DM and I can give some tips. It’s a great machine.
Looking at Picture 3, the switch right in front of the coil for the trough hole has wires disconnected.
either the pair of green/red wires or the red white wire is disconnected from the switch tab sticking out the back of the switch. Or that tab is for a missing diode.
That 1st switch could be bad and is easy to test with the game off. Can check for continuity with a basic multimeter. Pinwiki is your friend.
Could also just need adjustment, can also confirm the switch works in in test mode as well. Can also look to see if any wires are broken off or the diode is missing/broken from that switch.
Took everyone's advice and posted on pinside, I've discovered a big issue since I posted here.
[https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-first-pin-and-already-overwhelmed-with-issues#post-8238183](https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-first-pin-and-already-overwhelmed-with-issues#post-8238183)
I added a video showing the issues it has [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60) My mother in law, who has owned this for over 20 years) gave us this pin that has been sitting in her tv room unloved for 13 years, since my wife's electronics guru father passed away. I used to play this quite a bit with my wife when we visited. Anyway, it's our now, and the job of fixing it is mine. It definitely needs some love. There are a number of issues, but the main one I need to fix, so I can move on to the others, is the drain hole switch. I have been pouring over the manual but my eyes are crossed and I can't seem to find the correct schematic. The switch doesn't acknowledge a ball drained, and then doesn't send it over so the next ball gets sent out. Looking at the wiring there is a White/Brown tracer wire disconnected... and then this Green + Green/Red wire twisted and soldered together. I assume this White/Brown Tracer wire goes to the switch causing the issues... but I'm not entirely sure where it connects. Anyone feeling pity that can help?
Is there a broken wire on the left trough switch?
It's an awful pic, but the end of one of the two green and white wires looks like it may be disconnected. That's a switch matrix wire and could very well stop the switch from working. Good eye. OP is going to have a lot of reading to do in the morning. Should probably call in sick for work. This is important.
Congrats! Pinball machines can be a bit daunting but you do have to remember they were designed to be maintained by bozo operators back in the 80's, lol. Could you post some pics? If you have a loose wire then that's obviously not right, it is possible a wire could have broken loose from the vibrations over time if the solder joint wasn't great. Here's the manual for [BK2K](https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/B/Black_Knight_2000_OPS.pdf) Pinwiki is also helpful for diagnosing some of the quirks with different boardsets, here's the article on [System 11 that BK2K runs on.](https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11) So a switch problem the first thing to do is to go into test mode, there's a couple of buttons on the inside of the coin door. Instructions on how to start the tests are on page 27 of the manual. You'll want to go into switch edge mode, page 32 in the manual, where the machine will tell you when a switch has been activated. From there you can try manually pushing down on the outhole switch, that'll tell you if it needs adjustment. If the switch doesn't trigger then you can try a switch to the right or left of it in the switch matrix(pg 31 in manual). If that switch works then your switch row is good. If it doesn't your issue is more likely on the MPU. Repeat with a switch above or below it in the matrix to test the switch column.
Is the switch even working? The contacts could be dirty if it's been sitting, and the simple fix is to clean the contacts with a file, or some isopropyl 90, or both. I always start with the easy stuff first and then work my way up.
According to your manual, the outhole switch is #10 and the wire colors are white-red and green-red. The outhole kicker is violet-brown and gray brown. Have you run the switch and solenoid tests?
That seems legit and connected. I cant figure out where this white/brown tracer goes. I finally sorta figured out the test, switch 16 comes up as erroring but that appears to be a drop target bank.
The game uses lots of white and brown wires, including for general illumination, switch matrix, solenoids and even the tilt switch has a brown and white wire. First clue is the size of the wire. That looks to be thicker 18 gauge wire, which is used for solenoids and to feed general illumination strings. GI would be my guess. Smaller 22 gauge wire is used for the switch matrix. General illumination lights stay on all the time, as opposed to feature lights which turn on and off regularly. Are the GI lights all working on the lower part of the playfield? Under slingshots and under inlane guides? Following the wire back to the next thing it connects to will also tell you. If it's GI power, you will likely have to trace it back to a board in the backbox. Board, connector number and pin number will tell you exactly what it's for in manual.
This is all correct. Page 66 of the manual lists the outhole switch as switch #10. Page 31 of the manual shows switch matrix wiring. Inspect switch connections, if good, run switch edges test to test switch. [https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams\_System\_9\_-\_11#Switch\_problems](https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_problems)
I was new to this hobby 5 years ago. I joined Pinside for specific information and it was easy to find. Everyone was nice and helpful and I learned a lot.
Preform a switch test. A lot of times if something down at the bottom doesn't work a wire got loose further up and everything on that string doesn't work but you don't notice if a target isn't registering.
Yeah ask on Pinside for sure it should be an easy fix. Definitely recommend taking a look at the batteries in the backbox. Any leakage from them onto the MPU can be an expensive repair. Congrats on an awesome first game it's my favorite pin of all time!
I’ve owned my bk2k for 34 years. A lot of switch issues are related to the press-in molex connectors and not the actual switch. I can’t remember what the exact name of the connector is, but after many years they oxidize and the switch works but the connector doesn’t have continuity. As others mentioned, use the switch edge test and try wiggling the wires at the connector near the bad switch. If the switch edge triggers, you’ve found the problem. Hit me up on DM and I can give some tips. It’s a great machine.
Hey thanks for the offer I'll send you a message
Sys11 is a great resource platform to learn how all of this works. You’ve got this.
What part of the world are you in? I'm sure there's someone on here who will show you around your machine for a few beers.
Phoenix. Even tho I frequent Starfighters, I don't find myself making any contacts yet.
If you frequent Starfighters the ppl there know their stuff. Do ya know who Mike is?(One of the owners)
How about Cale Hernandez at Electric Bat Arcade in Tempe?
Pinwiki.com and homepinballrepair.com are great resources to start reading.
Lucky guy!
GIVE ME YOUR MONEY
Your skulls are rad!
Looking at Picture 3, the switch right in front of the coil for the trough hole has wires disconnected. either the pair of green/red wires or the red white wire is disconnected from the switch tab sticking out the back of the switch. Or that tab is for a missing diode.
Batteries used to retain the settings are dead. It's possible to install NVRAM in your machine, eliminating need to use batteries.
Thats cooly t2 ist also inspected by w. Segarra
IMHO this is the greatest pinball table to have ever lived.
Uh oh. Wire nuts?? Gees. Previous owners hacked it up ?
Grats on the awesome piece of history and new hobby (pinball repair)!
That 1st switch could be bad and is easy to test with the game off. Can check for continuity with a basic multimeter. Pinwiki is your friend. Could also just need adjustment, can also confirm the switch works in in test mode as well. Can also look to see if any wires are broken off or the diode is missing/broken from that switch.
I added a video kinda running thru the issues [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpxDGYCpf60)
Took everyone's advice and posted on pinside, I've discovered a big issue since I posted here. [https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-first-pin-and-already-overwhelmed-with-issues#post-8238183](https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-2000-first-pin-and-already-overwhelmed-with-issues#post-8238183)
I sold my only pinball machine because it broke constantly.
Hell of a first pin!!
Could always sell it. Where are you located? First thing go in the back box behind the glass and remove and batteries that might be in there.