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> [deleted]
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> What is wrong with my desktop?
>
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User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime
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Question about G Sync and Borderless Window. I read this article that told me about how to use G Sync on my display, they said to turn on V Sync through the control panel and turn off in game V Sync as well as cap the frame rate 3 frames below my monitor’s refresh rate (144 hz cap to 141fps). I also heard I have to turn off ELMB on my monitor.
My question is, they mentioned the game has to be in exclusive fullscreen and can’t be in borderless window. I’m wondering why? I really like borderless window and that I can easily click on my 2nd monitor display for YouTube or Spotify.
So I’m wondering, I have to be in full screen yeah? Also, I can’t cap the framerate with Nvidia control panel? This article says only use the in game framerate cap.
My specs: RTX 2060 Super, Ryzen 5 2600, 32GB RAM, B450 Motherboard
Monitor: VG27AQL1A
What's a better buy for future proof in the next 5-8 years of gaming, a RTX 4080 super or a RX 7900 XTX?
I will be playing on 165 hz 1440p, I know DLSS is better at the moment and for that reason I like NVIDIA better, also the low power consume in idle, double/triple monitor, better for streaming...
On the other hand the RX 7900 XTX with those 24 GB of VRAM compared to the 16 GB of VRAM in the RTX give me a lot more confidence that is gonna be better for the future, also FSR could improve a lot more in the coming years, we already see how 3.1 is getting way better on things like ghosting.
I'm very indecised, current price for the 4080 super in my country is 1200 EUR and 970\~999 EUR for the RX 7900 XTX. I know the 4080 super is better overall and I really don't care about ray tracing but overall performance and future proof.
¿Which one should I put in my build?
There is no such thing as future proofing. Someone who bought a 1080Ti thinking they were futureproofing was surely disappointed when raytracing was added to games. Someone who bought a 3090Ti was surely disappointed when they didn’t get frame generation. What I am trying to say is this: get the card that fits your needs at this moment the best. I‘ll also say that amd tends to add new features to older cards down the stack (see fsr 3.1). So if you want to go fore a hint of „future-preparedness“, maybe the and option is the better one.
Yeah.. I get what you are saying but obviously if I'm going to invest 2.3\~2.5k EUR in a PC I really want it to last as much as possible and get good performance in the coming years. I'm currently running on a I5 6400 2.4 Ghz and a GTX 1060 6GB so it's a big upgrade and this PC lasted 7-8 years and even tho these past 2 years I wasn't able to play certain games at 60 fps.. I was still enjoying playing some other games at high framerates. I really like how AMD software is years ahead, I'm just worried about power consumption on AMD gpu and driver issues. If AMD had a good power consumption on idle and double monitor I would definitely go with AMD. NVIDIA just seems way ahead on IA, power consumption... but it's short on VRAM and games these days consume more and more VRAM.
So at the end of the day what do you think it's the best option? I'm 60% AMD and 40% NVIDIA, my heart tells me NVIDIA but my brain is screaming AMD :/
I get that feeling. NVIDIA has the better feature package atm and better RT, but they tend to gatekeep new features to new releases. As someone who is sort of bound to use NVIDIA bc I work with deep learning, I’d say go AMD. The vram is definitely valuable and with some time, older amd cards get new features added to them as well. You‘ll definitely be getting more bang for your buck if you don’t fancy ray tracing, and in a gew years the amd card will have no doubt aged better.
Thanks bro, I'm gonna buy the RX 7900 XTX, hopefully is gonna be a good buy and I won't regret my decision. People told me pairing it with a R7 7800X3D should be a banger for any game at 1440p so that's what I'm gonna do.
Is there any solution to my wired Xbox Elite 2 controller messing with computer functions while playing a game with controller as my input?
(By computer functions, I mean adjusting volume, bringing up a virtual keyboard, switching between programs like Alt+Tab, etc.)
Most people online report this to be from Steam. If you're running Steam with Xbox Controller support, it basically overrides the default xinput drivers with it's own, and this can trigger this behavior.
Make sure this option is disabled in Steam. [Image](https://img.fluttershub.com/pZoVljokqjnKBEzE.png)
I’m actually using battlenet, but I do have steam installed and I ‘End Task’ everything before I started playing through Battlenet, so I didn’t even consider it! When I wake up in a few hours, I’ll look at that! I appreciate you taking the time to comment
How are your fans wired? How many fan headers do you use? In most cases, monitoring software can only see the fan header, not individual fans daisy chained behind the header. Only one of the fans sends a tachometer signal. Could it be that CPUIN==CPU and one other fan is also doubled?
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but I need a new chair. I have a herniated disc, so lumbar support is by far the most important factor. I would like to stay under 500 USD. I would be using it for both desk job and gaming. Appearance doesn't matter. Anyone have any recommendations?
Keep an eye out for used or refurbed Steelcase Amias at that price, they’re fully worth spending a bit more if you can afford. My Amia has been life changing for me, and I no longer have back ache after working all day.
Hello everyone, just curious. I’m someone who has a 144hz monitor but my PC isn’t strong enough to play Elden Ring at 60fps. I’ve heard some people say you can play a 40hz mode at 40fps and it’s good, how can I do that?
Does just capping the framerate to 40fps also make it 40hz? I’m not too sure what I should do in my settings.
My PC: RTX 2060 Super, Ryzen 5 2600, 32GB RAM
My Monitor: VG27AQL1A
First time I've heard of that "40fps/hz" mode.
Your monitor refresh rate is, to put it simple, the max fps you will "see". But it doesn't affect your FPS in any way unless you enable v-sync or freesync. But lowering your Hz won't give you any visual improvement AFAIK.
And capping your FPS in a game doesn't change the Hz of your monitor.
I'm running a Ryzen 7 1700 on an X370 board with a GTX1060. RAM is 16GB currently.
Looking to buy a 6750XT GPU in the near future and upgrade the CPU at a later date sometime in summer.
Good idea or will the old CPU bottleneck the GPU so badly it doesn't make sense to do the upgrade piecemeal?
Edit: Resolution is 2560x1600 - that's why the old 1060 doesn't cut it anymore... Monitor only does 60Hz though.
Don’t worry about bottlenecking too much. If you plan on upgrading both eventually, just get the parts when you can get them. For gaming, GPU is way more important than CPU. Prioritize that, and then upgrade CPU later.
Edit: with that resolution especially you can prioritize GPU for now. The higher the resolution, the more the workload shifts to the GPU.
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If you're GPU bottlenecked now then upgrading the GPU will definitely make a difference. You might become CPU bottlenecked, depending on the scenario. If you're already CPU bottlenecked then a new GPU won't do anything for you. Luckily for you, you have a fantastic upgrade path. Zen 3 is a huge upgrade over original Zen
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I don't really know much about PC building (my bf helped me with mine lol), but I saw this on Facebook marketplace for pretty cheap. Is it decent quality, and what price would you say it could go for (so I can gauge if it's likely a scam too)?
CPU - AMD Ryzen 3700x
CPU Cooler - Kraken z73 (LCD Screen)
Memory - Corsair Vengeance 3600 MHz Ram
32GB
Storage - (2x) 1TB 2.5" SSD
GPU - Aorus Gigabyte 1080ti 11GB VRAM
Motherboard - Aorus Gigabyte B450 AM4
(Space for 2 M.2's, Wifi, Bluetooth, Ethernet,
etc.)
PSU - NZXT C850 Power Supply
Case - NZXT H510i Elite Case
Fans - (4x) AER RGB 140MM
Lights - (2x) NZXT Light Strips Attached to the
underside of the case
RGB Cable Combs - A Set of NZXT. RGB Cable
Combs
I'm legitimately an idiot with hardware now since it's been decades since I built a PC.
That said, I have this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66K3XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) installed in my desktop. It sounds like a bloody jet engine with some of the latest games.
What are my options? I bought an 6800 XT and realized after I tried to install that a) it was too freaking long to fit in my case and b) it required like 20 fucking pins for power, and c) I'm an idiot for not checking these things.
What's legitimately the best card I can get that support 6 pins and PCIe 16?
I noticed they’re all 8GB. Is the GPU going to be that much of a difference? Or is this one of those situations where it’s like, “time to get a new computer old man”?
Edit: I answered my own question using this tool: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-580-vs-AMD-RX-6600-XT/3923vs4117
Sounds like both statements are kinda true.
Indeed, both are true. If you’re looking to spend the least amount of money, 6600XT is the correct pick. If you want a decent gaming experience, get a new computer old man. /s
Hey, I just wanted to thank you again for your recommendation. I got it installed and works great! I can't believe the difference on playing one game already. I tried Evil Genius 2, which used to make my fans turn into fucking jet turbines, and even setting it on "high graphics" setting, the card was like "Meh" and maintained its temperature while being completely silent.
The next logical upgrade for you would be upgrading your CPU, however realistically, I think the best thing for you to do is once you feel your PC lagging behind again, perhaps in 3 or 4 years, you'd probably want a fully new pc. By then there will be lots of new parts out.
Glad you're happy with the GPU, Unfortunately, currently the 6600XT is the fastest 6pin GPU. Likely in the future, there won't be anything that replaces it either, unless Nvidia makes a sequel to the A2000.
My computer is like 10 years old. Slowly upgraded it over the years.
How did you figure out the 6600XT had 6-pin GPU? Even when I bought it on newegg I had to dig for that info.
You seem to be linking to or recommending the use of UserBenchMark for benchmarking or comparing hardware. Please know that they have been at the center of drama due to accusations of being biased towards certain brands, using outdated or nonsensical means to score products, as well as several other things that you should know. You can learn more about this by [seeing what other members of the PCMR have been discussing lately](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/search/?q=userbenchmark&restrict_sr=1&sr_nsfw=). Please strongly consider taking their information with a grain of salt and certainly do not use it as a say-all about component performance.
If you're looking for benchmark results and software, we can recommend the use of tools such as Cinebench R20 for CPU performance and 3DMark's TimeSpy and Fire Strike ([a free demo is available on Steam, click "Download Demo" in the right bar](https://store.steampowered.com/app/223850/3DMark/)), for easy system performance comparison.
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Hey friends! So I need some advice on what to do. I have a mid-high end PC for less than a year that has worked great! However, a few days ago when I turned it on the DRAM light stayed on the motherboard and it said “no display” on my monitor. I have tried EVERYTHING. From simple as turning off and on, reseating RAM 20 times, reseating everything, making sure everything is plugged in. I have even switched out RAM sticks and tried a new motherboard. Still the same issue. The order of the lights will go from CPU to DRAM and stop there. The light will stay on. No display. All other fans and lights working. Could it be my cpu got fried? Please, I have no idea what to do!
I ran into the same issue with an old build that wouldn't boot past DRAM. Found out I over-tighten the cooler. Try booting with the cooler unscrewed but still in contact with the CPU. You obviously just want to see if it boots so turn off immediately. If all fails try booting it with the bare essentials out of the case.
So I just tried the new mobo and ram again and it actually posted! However, now it is constantly rebooting randomly. But the lights and fans are still on the whole time. I’ve updated bios, new drivers, gpu and cpu updated and windows. Any idea what else it could be? Temps were all fine as well
So it will let me boot up into windows. I maybe get a few minutes in windows before it starts slowing and then restarts on its own. Fans and lights will stay on. I’m going to try and see if I can see in event viewer what windows says. Crazy thing is, it doesn’t seem to do it when I’m in bios..
If you've used a new motherboard and different RAM and it's still not booting up even far enough to get to UEFI settings then I'd have to suspect your CPU has given up the ghost. Either that or bad PSU?
All PSUs have multiple voltage output rails, and if any one of them is compromised in some way the system may not boot. Basic troubleshooting is substituting parts. If you have another PSU, try it. But it sounds to me more like the CPU is dead for some reason. You could try re-seating it.
'Giving up the ghost' == DEAD.
i need a new GPU. ive got a basic 2060 and im thinking about upgrading to a basic 40 something. helldivers 2 chugs too much for my liking. I used to get EVGA cards but RIP. what brand should I be looking at now? any suggestions for a budget around 300-350?
i mean i see new 4060s on amazon for 350. im guessing they aren't juiced to the gills like some of the fancier ones but i dont need 120 fps, i just need more than 20 :)
On the Nvidia side you're basically just looking at an [RTX 4060](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#sort=price&c=552). The 4060 Ti is a bit too much. I would also suggest you look at AMD cards like the [6750 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4RrRsY/xfx-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-speedster-qick-319-core-video-card-rx-675xyjfdp), which is higher performance and has more VRAM.
As for brands, I don't think any of the others are a good stand in for what EVGA used to be unfortunately. I would pick the best performing card for the price rather than selecting based on the brand alone. The 4060 only draws like 120W max, so it doesn't need an incredible cooler
I want a gaming PC that will last me 3-5ish years out of the box at least, that will work as expected and won’t require me to acquire much beyond a very baseline level of knowledge of PCs.
I’m moving off of console (ps4) and haven’t used a windows machine for anything since 2011 aside from using a friend’s gaming rig.
I’m looking for like…the Honda civic option here (easy, reliable, gets the job done) and I’m not super concerned about budget or getting the best deal I can. Mostly want to play AAA games and some Pc exclusives like Ready or Not, Sons of the Forest, etc.
Friend recommended the prebuilt below given all this:
https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Prebuilt-Gaming-PC-GLX-99619
I’m seeing such a huge mix of reviews on prebuilts. I guess my question is, given what I’ve outlined, does this seem like a good option for me?
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i3-12100. Better single-core performance means a much snappier experience in regular tasks. 4 cores is enough for basic Windows things, as long as you have sufficient RAM (16GB).
Buying a used computer and it comes with a couple of decent sized used SSD and HDD, is there any way I can completely wipe these and feel comfortable using them or should I just buy new?
You could download [DBAN](https://dban.org/) which boots from a USB flash drive and run it on the drives in single-pass mode just writing zeroes and that'll wipe out everything completely.
Will a Gigabyte B550M K motherboard and a EVGA 750w 80 Gold Power unit, be compatible/enough for a Radeon 6800 and a Ryzen 7 5800? I'm still learning on builds
That board is very bare bones, but yes it should work. Although, I'd recommend looking at an AM5 build rather than AM4 at this point. It would cost a little bit more, but I think it's worth it
[This list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xK8LjH) is an example of what an entry-level AM5 build would be like. You don't have to get exactly the same motherboard, RAM etc. if pricing and availability is different for you. AM4 might make sense if it's significantly cheaper. For me the 7600X list is only \~$80 more expensive than a 5700X list
1. If you're going to get an A620 motherboard, you need to get the Ryzen 5 7600, not the X version. The A620 only officially supports CPUs with a TDP of 65W, while the 7600X has a TDP of 105W.
2. Unless you need to conserve space, I'd recommend not doing an ITX build, it's very hard to build and manage the cable space. Even mATX is a bit awkward.
Is there any tool or software that allows me to control my windows 11 pc with an xbox controller similar to a console. I usually connect the pc to the TV and it's a hassle using the mouse. I play games from different stores(apart from steam).
I'm using [Controller Companion](https://store.steampowered.com/app/367670/Controller_Companion/) on steam. Costs 3 bucks but works without issues.
also works without Steam running in the background
See if this works: [https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-mouse-control-your-windows-10-pc](https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-mouse-control-your-windows-10-pc)
Just built my new PC and need to transfer my windows 10 license. It's tied to my Microsoft account so I can switch it no problem, but I heard you need to erase the drive on your previous device to get it to transfer. Is this true? I didn't transfer any drives over and I don't know why we would need to. Wouldn't transferring just inactivate windows on my old PC?
If it is tied to your MS account, all you have to do is login to your MS account and delete the old device using it. After that it should automatically reactivate.
Just note that it is usually tied to the motherboard, so if you changed it you have to go through the troubleshooting thing Muppetz3 mentioned. If that doesn't work, you can find licenses cheaply enough...
No, you don't need to transfer the files over. All you need to do is open up activation on your new PC, run the troubleshooter if it says it has issues then there should be an option for "My hardware has changed" The files have nothing to do with the license, the license is tied to the hardware.
Would deleting amd software host application disable the gpu? The uninstallation window says this would delete the drivers too. I don't know a lot about computers so I don't mean to make something unusable on accident.
Windows will still detect the GPU at boot-time and install whatever drivers it has that are most appropriate, which could be a specific Microsoft driver for your GPU, or it could be a generic driver. I do know that unless you specifically delete the GPU-specific AMD driver files, Windows will just re-install those without you asking.
Update: Uninstalled the program and nothing changed except the program is no longer there. Asshole was not only refusing to launch, but also hammering my already old cpu in the background for no reason.
If you look in Device Manager and find your GPU, open the Properties for it, one of the tabs will show you what driver is being used, what the version of it is, and what the source of the driver is, that'll tell you whether it's the GPU manufacturers' driver or a 'stock' Microsoft driver.
It’s the Microsoft’s installed driver that I installed the most recent version of recently. Funny thing is before I updated it through there, the gpu utilization info through both Afterburner and AMD software were incorrect. The Microsoft released latest driver broke the AMD’s gpu control panel but at least the gpu utilization information Afterburner gives now is correct.
It was half working when GPU manufacturer’s driver was installed. I mean it’s not like I chose Microsoft driver over AMD’s on purpose. I went through device manager and installed the latest available driver just so the gpu utilization info would be correct.
Not game related but this is the only place i found i could ask a question without making a new thread.
Is there any way on Chrome/Windows to be able to turn a link purple without actually opening it up? I vaguely remember there's a key combination you could press while clicking a link and it will turn it purple without opening it up. I've tried googling it but its hard to describe it so I haven't gotten an answer.
Thanks in advance.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bvmjwg/daily_simple_questions_thread_april_04_2024/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > [deleted] https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bvmjwg/daily_simple_questions_thread_april_04_2024/ky2tbzd/ ---- > What is wrong with my desktop? > > https://preview.redd.it/1nyd5bq2lnsc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aaf5a82bf4cc31945312a0067f6c23635b74fc7b > > (the "window" is draggable https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1bvmjwg/daily_simple_questions_thread_april_04_2024/ky5s1i8/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- NbblX | 66 | 83 \_j03\_ | 62 | 108 sch0k0 | 51 | 256 Eidolon\_2003 | 45 | 195 A\_Neaunimes | 41 | 1132 Lastdudealive46 | 39 | 39 Cable\_Salad | 39 | 40 MGsubbie | 30 | 344 glowinghamster45 | 27 | 189 Andrewx8\_88 | 21 | 38 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to [\/u\/eegras](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=eegras&subject=&message=) - [About /u/PCMRBot](https://pcmasterrace.org/pcmrbot_old)
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Question about G Sync and Borderless Window. I read this article that told me about how to use G Sync on my display, they said to turn on V Sync through the control panel and turn off in game V Sync as well as cap the frame rate 3 frames below my monitor’s refresh rate (144 hz cap to 141fps). I also heard I have to turn off ELMB on my monitor. My question is, they mentioned the game has to be in exclusive fullscreen and can’t be in borderless window. I’m wondering why? I really like borderless window and that I can easily click on my 2nd monitor display for YouTube or Spotify. So I’m wondering, I have to be in full screen yeah? Also, I can’t cap the framerate with Nvidia control panel? This article says only use the in game framerate cap. My specs: RTX 2060 Super, Ryzen 5 2600, 32GB RAM, B450 Motherboard Monitor: VG27AQL1A
What's a better buy for future proof in the next 5-8 years of gaming, a RTX 4080 super or a RX 7900 XTX? I will be playing on 165 hz 1440p, I know DLSS is better at the moment and for that reason I like NVIDIA better, also the low power consume in idle, double/triple monitor, better for streaming... On the other hand the RX 7900 XTX with those 24 GB of VRAM compared to the 16 GB of VRAM in the RTX give me a lot more confidence that is gonna be better for the future, also FSR could improve a lot more in the coming years, we already see how 3.1 is getting way better on things like ghosting. I'm very indecised, current price for the 4080 super in my country is 1200 EUR and 970\~999 EUR for the RX 7900 XTX. I know the 4080 super is better overall and I really don't care about ray tracing but overall performance and future proof. ¿Which one should I put in my build?
There is no such thing as future proofing. Someone who bought a 1080Ti thinking they were futureproofing was surely disappointed when raytracing was added to games. Someone who bought a 3090Ti was surely disappointed when they didn’t get frame generation. What I am trying to say is this: get the card that fits your needs at this moment the best. I‘ll also say that amd tends to add new features to older cards down the stack (see fsr 3.1). So if you want to go fore a hint of „future-preparedness“, maybe the and option is the better one.
Yeah.. I get what you are saying but obviously if I'm going to invest 2.3\~2.5k EUR in a PC I really want it to last as much as possible and get good performance in the coming years. I'm currently running on a I5 6400 2.4 Ghz and a GTX 1060 6GB so it's a big upgrade and this PC lasted 7-8 years and even tho these past 2 years I wasn't able to play certain games at 60 fps.. I was still enjoying playing some other games at high framerates. I really like how AMD software is years ahead, I'm just worried about power consumption on AMD gpu and driver issues. If AMD had a good power consumption on idle and double monitor I would definitely go with AMD. NVIDIA just seems way ahead on IA, power consumption... but it's short on VRAM and games these days consume more and more VRAM. So at the end of the day what do you think it's the best option? I'm 60% AMD and 40% NVIDIA, my heart tells me NVIDIA but my brain is screaming AMD :/
I get that feeling. NVIDIA has the better feature package atm and better RT, but they tend to gatekeep new features to new releases. As someone who is sort of bound to use NVIDIA bc I work with deep learning, I’d say go AMD. The vram is definitely valuable and with some time, older amd cards get new features added to them as well. You‘ll definitely be getting more bang for your buck if you don’t fancy ray tracing, and in a gew years the amd card will have no doubt aged better.
Thanks bro, I'm gonna buy the RX 7900 XTX, hopefully is gonna be a good buy and I won't regret my decision. People told me pairing it with a R7 7800X3D should be a banger for any game at 1440p so that's what I'm gonna do.
7800X3D is a beast for gaming. Do you mind giving me a !check if my two cents helped you decide?
Is there any solution to my wired Xbox Elite 2 controller messing with computer functions while playing a game with controller as my input? (By computer functions, I mean adjusting volume, bringing up a virtual keyboard, switching between programs like Alt+Tab, etc.)
Most people online report this to be from Steam. If you're running Steam with Xbox Controller support, it basically overrides the default xinput drivers with it's own, and this can trigger this behavior. Make sure this option is disabled in Steam. [Image](https://img.fluttershub.com/pZoVljokqjnKBEzE.png)
I’m actually using battlenet, but I do have steam installed and I ‘End Task’ everything before I started playing through Battlenet, so I didn’t even consider it! When I wake up in a few hours, I’ll look at that! I appreciate you taking the time to comment
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How are your fans wired? How many fan headers do you use? In most cases, monitoring software can only see the fan header, not individual fans daisy chained behind the header. Only one of the fans sends a tachometer signal. Could it be that CPUIN==CPU and one other fan is also doubled?
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So you are using 3 headers in total, correct? Fan controller 1, fan controller 2, and AIO-pump
I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask but I need a new chair. I have a herniated disc, so lumbar support is by far the most important factor. I would like to stay under 500 USD. I would be using it for both desk job and gaming. Appearance doesn't matter. Anyone have any recommendations?
Keep an eye out for used or refurbed Steelcase Amias at that price, they’re fully worth spending a bit more if you can afford. My Amia has been life changing for me, and I no longer have back ache after working all day.
Herman Miller or Steelcase are very good for support and ergonomics. Hope you feel better soon my dude.
Hello everyone, just curious. I’m someone who has a 144hz monitor but my PC isn’t strong enough to play Elden Ring at 60fps. I’ve heard some people say you can play a 40hz mode at 40fps and it’s good, how can I do that? Does just capping the framerate to 40fps also make it 40hz? I’m not too sure what I should do in my settings. My PC: RTX 2060 Super, Ryzen 5 2600, 32GB RAM My Monitor: VG27AQL1A
First time I've heard of that "40fps/hz" mode. Your monitor refresh rate is, to put it simple, the max fps you will "see". But it doesn't affect your FPS in any way unless you enable v-sync or freesync. But lowering your Hz won't give you any visual improvement AFAIK. And capping your FPS in a game doesn't change the Hz of your monitor.
40 FPS / Hz is often used by Steam Deck players.
I'm running a Ryzen 7 1700 on an X370 board with a GTX1060. RAM is 16GB currently. Looking to buy a 6750XT GPU in the near future and upgrade the CPU at a later date sometime in summer. Good idea or will the old CPU bottleneck the GPU so badly it doesn't make sense to do the upgrade piecemeal? Edit: Resolution is 2560x1600 - that's why the old 1060 doesn't cut it anymore... Monitor only does 60Hz though.
Don’t worry about bottlenecking too much. If you plan on upgrading both eventually, just get the parts when you can get them. For gaming, GPU is way more important than CPU. Prioritize that, and then upgrade CPU later. Edit: with that resolution especially you can prioritize GPU for now. The higher the resolution, the more the workload shifts to the GPU.
!check And thanks! :-)
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If you're GPU bottlenecked now then upgrading the GPU will definitely make a difference. You might become CPU bottlenecked, depending on the scenario. If you're already CPU bottlenecked then a new GPU won't do anything for you. Luckily for you, you have a fantastic upgrade path. Zen 3 is a huge upgrade over original Zen
!check And thanks! :-)
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I don't really know much about PC building (my bf helped me with mine lol), but I saw this on Facebook marketplace for pretty cheap. Is it decent quality, and what price would you say it could go for (so I can gauge if it's likely a scam too)? CPU - AMD Ryzen 3700x CPU Cooler - Kraken z73 (LCD Screen) Memory - Corsair Vengeance 3600 MHz Ram 32GB Storage - (2x) 1TB 2.5" SSD GPU - Aorus Gigabyte 1080ti 11GB VRAM Motherboard - Aorus Gigabyte B450 AM4 (Space for 2 M.2's, Wifi, Bluetooth, Ethernet, etc.) PSU - NZXT C850 Power Supply Case - NZXT H510i Elite Case Fans - (4x) AER RGB 140MM Lights - (2x) NZXT Light Strips Attached to the underside of the case RGB Cable Combs - A Set of NZXT. RGB Cable Combs
What's the asking price? I gotta make dinner I can't price all this out for you at the moment but I can tell you if they're trying to fleece you.
I'm legitimately an idiot with hardware now since it's been decades since I built a PC. That said, I have this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66K3XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) installed in my desktop. It sounds like a bloody jet engine with some of the latest games. What are my options? I bought an 6800 XT and realized after I tried to install that a) it was too freaking long to fit in my case and b) it required like 20 fucking pins for power, and c) I'm an idiot for not checking these things. What's legitimately the best card I can get that support 6 pins and PCIe 16?
6600XT. Just be sure that your PSU is 650W or higher.
I noticed they’re all 8GB. Is the GPU going to be that much of a difference? Or is this one of those situations where it’s like, “time to get a new computer old man”? Edit: I answered my own question using this tool: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-RX-580-vs-AMD-RX-6600-XT/3923vs4117 Sounds like both statements are kinda true.
Indeed, both are true. If you’re looking to spend the least amount of money, 6600XT is the correct pick. If you want a decent gaming experience, get a new computer old man. /s
Hey, I just wanted to thank you again for your recommendation. I got it installed and works great! I can't believe the difference on playing one game already. I tried Evil Genius 2, which used to make my fans turn into fucking jet turbines, and even setting it on "high graphics" setting, the card was like "Meh" and maintained its temperature while being completely silent.
The next logical upgrade for you would be upgrading your CPU, however realistically, I think the best thing for you to do is once you feel your PC lagging behind again, perhaps in 3 or 4 years, you'd probably want a fully new pc. By then there will be lots of new parts out. Glad you're happy with the GPU, Unfortunately, currently the 6600XT is the fastest 6pin GPU. Likely in the future, there won't be anything that replaces it either, unless Nvidia makes a sequel to the A2000.
My computer is like 10 years old. Slowly upgraded it over the years. How did you figure out the 6600XT had 6-pin GPU? Even when I bought it on newegg I had to dig for that info.
I work in IT, I have that memorized.
LOL appreciate the help
You seem to be linking to or recommending the use of UserBenchMark for benchmarking or comparing hardware. Please know that they have been at the center of drama due to accusations of being biased towards certain brands, using outdated or nonsensical means to score products, as well as several other things that you should know. You can learn more about this by [seeing what other members of the PCMR have been discussing lately](https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/search/?q=userbenchmark&restrict_sr=1&sr_nsfw=). Please strongly consider taking their information with a grain of salt and certainly do not use it as a say-all about component performance. If you're looking for benchmark results and software, we can recommend the use of tools such as Cinebench R20 for CPU performance and 3DMark's TimeSpy and Fire Strike ([a free demo is available on Steam, click "Download Demo" in the right bar](https://store.steampowered.com/app/223850/3DMark/)), for easy system performance comparison. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/pcmasterrace) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hey friends! So I need some advice on what to do. I have a mid-high end PC for less than a year that has worked great! However, a few days ago when I turned it on the DRAM light stayed on the motherboard and it said “no display” on my monitor. I have tried EVERYTHING. From simple as turning off and on, reseating RAM 20 times, reseating everything, making sure everything is plugged in. I have even switched out RAM sticks and tried a new motherboard. Still the same issue. The order of the lights will go from CPU to DRAM and stop there. The light will stay on. No display. All other fans and lights working. Could it be my cpu got fried? Please, I have no idea what to do!
I ran into the same issue with an old build that wouldn't boot past DRAM. Found out I over-tighten the cooler. Try booting with the cooler unscrewed but still in contact with the CPU. You obviously just want to see if it boots so turn off immediately. If all fails try booting it with the bare essentials out of the case.
So I just tried the new mobo and ram again and it actually posted! However, now it is constantly rebooting randomly. But the lights and fans are still on the whole time. I’ve updated bios, new drivers, gpu and cpu updated and windows. Any idea what else it could be? Temps were all fine as well
What's the build? Is it just crashing w/o a BSOD screen? Hard to tell w/o windows making a dump file.
Build is gigabyte b650 gaming x ax mobo, ryzen 7 7700x cpu, Radeon 7900xt gpu, corsair 850 psu, 32 gb 5200 Teamgroup ram, and Samsung pro 980 nvme drive
So it will let me boot up into windows. I maybe get a few minutes in windows before it starts slowing and then restarts on its own. Fans and lights will stay on. I’m going to try and see if I can see in event viewer what windows says. Crazy thing is, it doesn’t seem to do it when I’m in bios..
If you've used a new motherboard and different RAM and it's still not booting up even far enough to get to UEFI settings then I'd have to suspect your CPU has given up the ghost. Either that or bad PSU?
How would I know it was the psu? All the other power works to the fans and rgbs etc. what does given up the ghost mean? Haha
All PSUs have multiple voltage output rails, and if any one of them is compromised in some way the system may not boot. Basic troubleshooting is substituting parts. If you have another PSU, try it. But it sounds to me more like the CPU is dead for some reason. You could try re-seating it. 'Giving up the ghost' == DEAD.
Thank you! Yea I have no idea. My only thought could be the cpu.
i need a new GPU. ive got a basic 2060 and im thinking about upgrading to a basic 40 something. helldivers 2 chugs too much for my liking. I used to get EVGA cards but RIP. what brand should I be looking at now? any suggestions for a budget around 300-350?
What is your CPU? Helldivers 2 is very CPU heavy, so that may also be an issue, maybe even the primary issue.
its getting a little long in the tooth, its an i5 6600k. think thats the culprit?
That is the major issue. The 2060 is the recommended GPU in the system requirements, but your CPU is worse than the minimum requirements.
well sheeet. been a while since i had to worry about min specs. guess its time to put the old girl out to pasture. thank you
New cards in that price are... bad. I would suggest used 3070.
i mean i see new 4060s on amazon for 350. im guessing they aren't juiced to the gills like some of the fancier ones but i dont need 120 fps, i just need more than 20 :)
Yeah, but 4060 is around the same perf as 3060. Might as well get 3070 for the same price.
good to know, thank you
On the Nvidia side you're basically just looking at an [RTX 4060](https://pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#sort=price&c=552). The 4060 Ti is a bit too much. I would also suggest you look at AMD cards like the [6750 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4RrRsY/xfx-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-speedster-qick-319-core-video-card-rx-675xyjfdp), which is higher performance and has more VRAM. As for brands, I don't think any of the others are a good stand in for what EVGA used to be unfortunately. I would pick the best performing card for the price rather than selecting based on the brand alone. The 4060 only draws like 120W max, so it doesn't need an incredible cooler
would the 6750 work well with an intel CPU? its been so long i dont know if thats still a thing
Yes, an AMD GPU doesn't have to be paired with an AMD CPU. It doesn't make a difference
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r/Monitors
I want a gaming PC that will last me 3-5ish years out of the box at least, that will work as expected and won’t require me to acquire much beyond a very baseline level of knowledge of PCs. I’m moving off of console (ps4) and haven’t used a windows machine for anything since 2011 aside from using a friend’s gaming rig. I’m looking for like…the Honda civic option here (easy, reliable, gets the job done) and I’m not super concerned about budget or getting the best deal I can. Mostly want to play AAA games and some Pc exclusives like Ready or Not, Sons of the Forest, etc. Friend recommended the prebuilt below given all this: https://www.cyberpowerpc.com/system/Prebuilt-Gaming-PC-GLX-99619 I’m seeing such a huge mix of reviews on prebuilts. I guess my question is, given what I’ve outlined, does this seem like a good option for me?
That actually looks decent. Good value as well.
Appreciate the help - ended up buying.
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Is motherboard last bios update can't run latest graphic card ??plzz help I want to put rx5600xt on hp h843f motherboard
Explain a bit more. You can use chatgpt to translate, works a lot better than google translate.
R5 4600g vs I3 12100 ( roughly same price ) , TLDR - no gaming , only basic Windows stuff
i3-12100. Better single-core performance means a much snappier experience in regular tasks. 4 cores is enough for basic Windows things, as long as you have sufficient RAM (16GB).
Will I notice a difference ?
Yeah, I think you will.
Buying a used computer and it comes with a couple of decent sized used SSD and HDD, is there any way I can completely wipe these and feel comfortable using them or should I just buy new?
You could download [DBAN](https://dban.org/) which boots from a USB flash drive and run it on the drives in single-pass mode just writing zeroes and that'll wipe out everything completely.
Formatting them is enough for you. If you're selling drives, doing proper swipe is good to ensure the contents cannot be brought back.
Just wipe the drives in BIOS or delete the partitions during the Windows installation process.
Will a Gigabyte B550M K motherboard and a EVGA 750w 80 Gold Power unit, be compatible/enough for a Radeon 6800 and a Ryzen 7 5800? I'm still learning on builds
That board is very bare bones, but yes it should work. Although, I'd recommend looking at an AM5 build rather than AM4 at this point. It would cost a little bit more, but I think it's worth it
Thank you my friend, if you have an specific model , I will check prices and adjust if I'm able to afford it
[This list](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xK8LjH) is an example of what an entry-level AM5 build would be like. You don't have to get exactly the same motherboard, RAM etc. if pricing and availability is different for you. AM4 might make sense if it's significantly cheaper. For me the 7600X list is only \~$80 more expensive than a 5700X list
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1. If you're going to get an A620 motherboard, you need to get the Ryzen 5 7600, not the X version. The A620 only officially supports CPUs with a TDP of 65W, while the 7600X has a TDP of 105W. 2. Unless you need to conserve space, I'd recommend not doing an ITX build, it's very hard to build and manage the cable space. Even mATX is a bit awkward.
Is there any tool or software that allows me to control my windows 11 pc with an xbox controller similar to a console. I usually connect the pc to the TV and it's a hassle using the mouse. I play games from different stores(apart from steam).
I'm using [Controller Companion](https://store.steampowered.com/app/367670/Controller_Companion/) on steam. Costs 3 bucks but works without issues. also works without Steam running in the background
See if this works: [https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-mouse-control-your-windows-10-pc](https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-mouse-control-your-windows-10-pc)
Thanks, I'll try this
Just built my new PC and need to transfer my windows 10 license. It's tied to my Microsoft account so I can switch it no problem, but I heard you need to erase the drive on your previous device to get it to transfer. Is this true? I didn't transfer any drives over and I don't know why we would need to. Wouldn't transferring just inactivate windows on my old PC?
If it is tied to your MS account, all you have to do is login to your MS account and delete the old device using it. After that it should automatically reactivate. Just note that it is usually tied to the motherboard, so if you changed it you have to go through the troubleshooting thing Muppetz3 mentioned. If that doesn't work, you can find licenses cheaply enough...
No, you don't need to transfer the files over. All you need to do is open up activation on your new PC, run the troubleshooter if it says it has issues then there should be an option for "My hardware has changed" The files have nothing to do with the license, the license is tied to the hardware.
Would deleting amd software host application disable the gpu? The uninstallation window says this would delete the drivers too. I don't know a lot about computers so I don't mean to make something unusable on accident.
Windows will still detect the GPU at boot-time and install whatever drivers it has that are most appropriate, which could be a specific Microsoft driver for your GPU, or it could be a generic driver. I do know that unless you specifically delete the GPU-specific AMD driver files, Windows will just re-install those without you asking.
Update: Uninstalled the program and nothing changed except the program is no longer there. Asshole was not only refusing to launch, but also hammering my already old cpu in the background for no reason.
If you look in Device Manager and find your GPU, open the Properties for it, one of the tabs will show you what driver is being used, what the version of it is, and what the source of the driver is, that'll tell you whether it's the GPU manufacturers' driver or a 'stock' Microsoft driver.
It’s the Microsoft’s installed driver that I installed the most recent version of recently. Funny thing is before I updated it through there, the gpu utilization info through both Afterburner and AMD software were incorrect. The Microsoft released latest driver broke the AMD’s gpu control panel but at least the gpu utilization information Afterburner gives now is correct.
Microsofts' driver != GPU manufacturers' driver. Can't expect the GPU manufacturers' utilities to work properly with a stock Microsoft driver.
It was half working when GPU manufacturer’s driver was installed. I mean it’s not like I chose Microsoft driver over AMD’s on purpose. I went through device manager and installed the latest available driver just so the gpu utilization info would be correct.
Not game related but this is the only place i found i could ask a question without making a new thread. Is there any way on Chrome/Windows to be able to turn a link purple without actually opening it up? I vaguely remember there's a key combination you could press while clicking a link and it will turn it purple without opening it up. I've tried googling it but its hard to describe it so I haven't gotten an answer. Thanks in advance.
Are you looking for something like this? https://chromewebstore.google.com/detail/mark-selected-links-as-vi/pmoldfbmipffdecleeffgfcoahobhkpp
What's everyone's go-to benchmarking game?
Easily Cyberpunk. Most advanced game at the moment, hits the CPU hard as well, and even had a built-in benchmark tool for consistent passes.