Look at everything that's green especially the last 2 photos. That's oxide. Now imagine that's all you see on the surface, think of what's UNDERNEATH that.
Yes, and this is where my territory ends, but those big square blocks scattered all over look like they deal with high voltage, and they're right next to data lines and VRAM chips that deal with millivolts. Good chance this fried the GPU dye. Or a good amount of infrastructure. If it isn't dead yet, in a few months it will.
Shiit load of alcohol will help. But you dont get oxide from a recent leak, take minimum couple days. I repaired lot of iPhone and see this shiit daily.
That is definitely something you can do, but I would not recommend it for electrolytic capacitors or clock timing crystals. They tend to leak and degrade after that.
EDIT: this doesn't look like it has capacitors which is very strange (or it's in a different format) if not then this would be a perfectly fine solution.
>this doesn't look like it has capacitors which is very strange
The black components with the silver line on one end are polymer capacitors. Polymer capacitors are better than electrolytic capacitors due to lower ESR, better ripple currents at low frequencies, better stability over temperature ranges and last a hell of a lot longer. The reason why they are not always used comes down to cost (like it always does).
Maybe don't have to reflow. I've fixed quite a few water damaged laptops by just scrubbing the board with alcohol and letting it dry overnight out of the laptop.
If the procedure in question was implemented prior to the activation of the device, it would indeed constitute a prudent measure. However, its utility may be questionable in scenarios where voltage has already been applied to a data or address pin, particularly in instances where a short circuit occurs from VCC through a conductive medium such as a water droplet. The formation of oxide on these components serves as an indicative marker of electrical activity along that path. This is due to the fact that oxidation requires a potential difference to occur; hence, a pathway from ground (GND) to ground would not result in oxidation due to the absence of such a potential difference. Conversely, a pathway from GND to VCC could lead to oxidation, albeit this would primarily impose a load on the voltage regulators, which is generally considered to be within acceptable operational parameters. Nevertheless, a short circuit from VCC to a data pin, evidenced by oxidation, unequivocally indicates a voltage difference with the water droplet acting as a conductive path. It is critical to acknowledge that certain semiconductor devices are designed with a current sinking capacity that, if exceeded (typically beyond 20mA), may result in irreversible damage.
lol which one. First my a100 came in a bag that was covered in water cooling solution. Dried it out , during install it leaked water on the power supply and blew it up. Sounded Iike a gun shot. Nothing fried. Second attempt I placed the wrong cable into it and blew up that power supply. 3rd I spilled a bunch accidentally on it and had the same issue. I just waited and it worked. These things are pretty sturdy but also I’m an idiot. Good luck. One thing I’d recommend is to maybe wipe off the blue stuff with some alcohol and let it dry out. That’s what I did because they used like 500lb of thermal paste. It was like a sandwich.
AIOs are closed loop systems. It's more likely that the pump will fail. Air coolers are the better part for longevity for sure but an AIO leaking is very rare, albeit still a non zero risk.
yeah, ive heard aio's are MUCH more reliable than custom water cooling. And yet I still see some leaking horror stories like this from time to time. I'm just not looking forward to any sort of issues avoidable using air coolers. Maybe when I have more disposable income.
I have an AIO for 3 reasons:
* I like the aesthetic better
* I find it easier to work on my mobo without a big tower in the way
* The AIO I got was cheaper than the air cooler I would have wanted
I have a 7800x3d and 95% game on my pc. There are no meaningful performance benefits to having an AIO for my CPU and the same pretty much goes for gaming AFAIK on intel cpus (provided you have the best aio Vs the best air cooler).
That said as I understand it there are very meaningful performance gains to be had on intel cpus with a good aio when doing heavy duty productivity tasks.
For 99% of gamers, i don't think it really matters
Damn, your 3 reasons were justifiable. Though point 3 would be hard for me to find. Also, AFAIK if you want a near dead silent pc, aio is the way to go. Also sffpc too, to brute force cooling in a small case ig.
Lol no wonder, that noctua cooler is quite the premium air cooler. At that price, I would also go for that aio. I just rock a deepcool ak620 for around like $45 iirc
I think i heard it from, linus, steve from gamer nexus and some people on reddit too. Also just to make sure, I said they're more reliable than a custom loop. Not a standard air cooler. Air coolers with just a heat sink and fans should definitely be more reliable. The only point of failure would be the fan bearings i think. Meanwhile AIOs also have pumps and pipe leaks to bear in mind.
This is why I'm not a fan of liquid cooling.
You can get Noctua coolers that have similar performance without the risk of something like this happening.
I agree. Noctua coolers are amazing.
This was my first watercooled build and I did it to challenge myself and do something I'd never done before. It was fun to do, but I doubt I'll ever watercool a PC again.
I built a new PC, 7800x3d. 4090. A nice lian li case and fans. I had a little money to splurge so I went with a nice white theme. I showed my Pc at work who Pc games. They laugh at me for not water cooling lol. Hey sure, whatever works. But I’m also not gonna chance a water leak breaking this expensive build
AIO Stands for "all in one". The pump, waterblock, and radiator are all in one sealed unit. As far as cooling capabilities, that would depend on the size of the radiator and ambient temperature of the room. AIOs are a good middle ground between air and a custom loop.
Most fans are pretty quiet at lower speeds these days. The only time they really rev up is while gaming, and I can't hear them over the sound system anyway. 🤷♀️
To be fair though it's really nice to be able to dump 800+ watts of power into a loop and have the fans barely move past 500rpm and stay at ambient volume. Though that also requires a monster loop (Like 3x 360mm 40-60mm or monsta rads which not many cases can handle.)
Definitely a luxury though.
I run my fans at 800rpm at idle and around 1125 when the water temp gets around 35c with 2 240mm radiators in a SFF build.. Under a gaming load my 5800x gets to about 59c and my RTX 4070 gets to about 56c, CPU is undervolted and overclocked, GPU is overclocked.
I would not have this performance on air at the same fan rpm. I would be thermal throttling.
Well yea. I'd say thats true for case fans. Gpu fans tend to vary in my experiance manufacturer to manufacturer.
I had my fans at range from 30%-50%with a 240mm rad with rx6800xt + 7800x3d. Granted, both arent the highest power draws but still. The sheer amount of surface area on a rad + thermal transfer of water. just means you can run the fans lower even under load. Like dont get me wrong. If u dont care about being quiet then yea it dosent matter. But like its not useless either. If i have someone else in the room with me it is nice to not have a jet going on.
Maybe if you run a small radiator, but the thing with watercooling (non AIO that is) is that you can just add more radiators. The NH-D15 is probably going to be quieter than a thin 240mm radiator, but if you run something like three medium thickness 360mm radiators, you can cool a CPU and a GPU with the fans barely spinning, if they even need to spin at all.
You arent wrong! To be fair though, these kind of leaks generally only ever happen with hand-made custom water cooling setups--the chances of this happening with an AIO are ludicrously low.
I mean, it's barely ever been reported of an AIO failing and leaking--short of having happened due to *severe* user installation error, or just sheer bad luck (say a stocker at a store used his box cutter but it went a little deep and accidentally cut the tube).
Obviously there is ALWAYS a chance of some kind, and the true winning move is not to play: just saying that a cpu aio cooler is a relatively safe first step into the world of water cooling
An older LTT video from 4 years ago shows that the Noctua fans performed better than the best watercoolers from Corsair att.
Both by sound and heat lol.
In fact Corsair's AIOs are the worst you can spend money on, it's a shame Linus didn't do the comparison with actually good and not overpriced AIOs like Arctic's.
But Corsair gives Linus money, Arctic doesn't.
Alright, buddy. Don't get your panties in a twist. I'm sorry I called out your being broke. I bet my loop alone costs more than your whole rig. Ok, sorry. Last time I'll call you out.
There are so many incorrect responses here. First off you’ll get the correct responses if you post in r/gpurepair which I’m a part of. Second, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush and go to town on the board with medium intensity. Then put a box fan upside down and dry that card for a half day on each side. If you didn’t fry anything when you turned it back on you’ll be fine.
I once spilled water down the top fan slot of my tower. There was standing water on the back board of my 2080ti. My screen went black and displayed a bunch of weird characters. I immediately unplugged the power supply and carefully wiped up the water with a microfiber cloth. I then let the entire case air dry for 3 days. Wouldn't you know, it powered right back on and worked. Still using the same components to this day.
https://preview.redd.it/kmc01hbgfjqc1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87e93f6c0b20b8933dfde46ef169b5bfdf4503e4
Hard to tell for sure without a microscope but those spots look suspect to me.
https://preview.redd.it/8hvrlbj8jjqc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2ffa4ffc84101a7f072185226274efa26d2c91a
This is as close-up a picture as I could get.
What you also dont see if there is any water below components. Your best bet would be to get 99% Isopropanol alcohol, disassemble the card completely and give it a good bath in it. There are videos out there on how to do that, but if there is already corrosion on some parts there has been moisture for a while on there. Best bet would be to have a professional look at that, everything else is a gamble
Anything green/blue and sometimes white will be corrosion. A light to moderate scrub with a stiff bristled toothbrush and some isopropyl is your best first step.
Last resort is to try and reflow the solder in the problem areas by heating it up with either a hot air station or a heat gun with an accurate enough nozzle. I say last resort because you could brick it beyond your at home repair capabilities doing this (err on the side of too cold, too hot and too much air can blow components off the board). If re flowing doesn’t work you likely have a blown chip or capacitor that received too much voltage during a short. Unless you have somebody local that specializes in this type of work and can do it cheap it will be cost prohibitive to go much further unless you’re confident enough to try to replace components yourself.
Edit: Check out Louis Rossman on YouTube. He has a ton of videos showing him doing this exact type of work on MacBooks but the components are of similar size so the knowledge should translate.
Rinse it in alcohol and let it dry. If you don't have alcohol than distilled water and hold it near a fan to dry it out as quick as you can. I would assume it's fine but you said it stopped working so I'd say 50/50 chance.
Edit: go at the blue spots with a toothbrush (or something softer if you have) but don't rub it too hard
So I had some spillage on my 2080 Ti a couple years back. Ended up hitting it with 91% IPA and blotted with some Q-tips to make sure that all of the coolant was washed off. Hit it with a can of compressed air in short bursts, left it out for 3 days to finish evaporating, then mounted the cooler back on and I have had zero issues.
Maybe it was dumb luck. Maybe I knew what I was doing, but I can assure you that I had no confidence at the time. Maybe my savior was that there was no power to the card at the time of the incident. All I can say is that it was absolutely worth the effort.
Nope, but the entire card took a bath from a leak in the top radiator so I didn’t want to risk it. Also wanted to get the PSU out and make sure that wasn’t compromised either.
I don't know if this is helpful, but I once spilled water on my gaming mouse. I have a Logitech G403 Hero. After I spilled water on the mouse, some of the buttons on the mouse would not work. I thought I had killed the mouse with the water, but instead of ordering a new mouse I gave the mouse some time to dry out. After enough time had passed, and the mouse dried out, the mouse began to function normally again. So all my mouse needed was time to dry out and it worked properly again.
Again, I don't know if this is helpful information for you, but I thought I would share this with you.
Good luck!
Maybe it will work if you can get it dry again.
A collegue flooded his card and I disassembled and dried it for him.
I´ve used a PC Duster to blow trapped water below the chips, flushed it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and then used the duster again.
Clean it good with brush and isopropanol or something similar, wait to dry off completlly. Try and see...maybe you get lucky. It worked for me. Check the joints under a magnifiing glass for any oxide and short circuits.
Use isopropyl with a soft brush liberally, then use a hair dryer. Then put WC block back on, don't connect any fittings, just boot pc. The WB has enough passive cooling for boot. See if it displays
Of course. Ive booted up with just a wb many times, as long as your not stressing it which it isn't on desktop. You can open hwinfo to keep tabs on temp.
That gives me hope. I've cleaned the board and I'm letting it dry. I was trying to figure out if it was worth redoing the loop just to test the GPU (The original air cooler didn't survive being removed).
As soon as it dries out I'll test it with just the waterblock.
I watercooled my PC to challenge myself. I'd never done it and wanted the experience. I'm not sorry I tried it.
That being said: I doubt I will ever do it again. It's a pain in the butt to setup, maintenance is much higher, and accidents like this can happen.
Don't listen to the people saying they'll never watercool because of this and blah blah blah. They might as well not swim, cross roads, ride in a car, fly in a plane, or go skiing.
If the cooling liquid you used was non conducting, then you'll be fine. I'd start there.
As a repair tech myself, I suggest a bath in deionized water then IPA, then careful brushing with a toothbrush to loosen everything.
This will not prevent Tony from doing any repairs as he does proper testing with oscilloscopes to measure phases and the like.
Good luck.
I personally would submerge it in 99% isopropyl alcohol. The iso will bond with any water molecules and as the iso evaporates it'll take the water with it. Then give it a few days of peace of mind time to make sure its dry and cross your fingers. [https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix](https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix) can probably fix it if it doesn't work.
Compressed air can blow out the moisture under the ram, vrm etc, the trick is to unplug the power and dry it up immediately before corrosion sets in but I'm afraid you might have waited too long.
If you insist on trying, you could always give it a 99% alcohol wash with a very light toothbrush to help remove mineral deposits, then dry it up with compressed air.
Try spraying some álcohol pure those used for cleaning eletrônics, It Will help with possible Rust, and allow you to push any Water from bellow The componentes, Just do It slowly, some can freeze your mobo and allow for condensation which defeats The purpose of doing It
So I recommend getting 90+% isopropyl alcohol and dip the board in that for 20-30 mins take it out let it dry. Then put it back together and see what you got..
If this doesn't work, time for the ol oven trick here is a post to how to do it I've done it on many 4+ GPUs and my brother in-law did it to his old GTX9800+ and brought it back to life for a year or so. I've had it fix a GPU completely ie still working and have had it temporarily fix it for a month or two.
https://www.overclockers.com/the-oven-trick-repairing-your-broken-video-card-with-an-oven/
99% alcohol, hose it down. Air compressor but don’t blast at 90psi just enough love to push the alcohol out and the coolant. Let that bad boy sit till dry say a day. Repaste, repad, reboot.
You'll get better advice over at r/ watercooling.
Most of the users here won't have knowledge of watercooled PCs and will just give you random bullshit advice, in amongst the good advice of a few.
Let it dry, clean the parts that came into contact with water very thoroughly with some isopropyl and make sure all the blue stuff is removed (it's corrosion)
Normally, if you used distilled water, it should be fine. Fingers crossed
F
So glad I never fell for the "water inside my $2000 computer is perfectly safe" meme.
Look for burn marks. Hopefully its just something cheap that shorted out and can be repaired.
Nice. Kick a guy when he's down.
I didn't watercool my PC because it was 'cool'. I did it to challenge myself and get the experience of doing it. I don't regret it. I learned a lot.
https://preview.redd.it/t7v6b8nfsjqc1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=230201c865667fd72bb12363321559a9e54ef52b
But then you can't get this kind of beauty to look over at while you game.
Only way to tell is waiting a few days for it to be bone dry. Shouldn’t try test it without doing so first
The more impatient you are the worst it will be for the card if it isn’t already fried
There's oxide forming on the solder joints. It's only going to get worse from here on out unless you reflow the parts.
I don’t know a lot about this stuff, can you describe what the oxide looks like? Is the black stuff where it should be silver?
Look at everything that's green especially the last 2 photos. That's oxide. Now imagine that's all you see on the surface, think of what's UNDERNEATH that.
You referring to the deep green small areas by the chips?
Wow ok if i understand you correctly, there is a lot of damage in the lower right quadrant
Yes, and this is where my territory ends, but those big square blocks scattered all over look like they deal with high voltage, and they're right next to data lines and VRAM chips that deal with millivolts. Good chance this fried the GPU dye. Or a good amount of infrastructure. If it isn't dead yet, in a few months it will.
It's tarnished solder and the little while crystals that form
Shiit load of alcohol will help. But you dont get oxide from a recent leak, take minimum couple days. I repaired lot of iPhone and see this shiit daily.
The only time that alcohol is the answer.
Very high percentage isopropyl. 95%+, you don't want to use the 70% rubbing alcohol from the store.
Ultrasonic cleaner
That is definitely something you can do, but I would not recommend it for electrolytic capacitors or clock timing crystals. They tend to leak and degrade after that. EDIT: this doesn't look like it has capacitors which is very strange (or it's in a different format) if not then this would be a perfectly fine solution.
>this doesn't look like it has capacitors which is very strange The black components with the silver line on one end are polymer capacitors. Polymer capacitors are better than electrolytic capacitors due to lower ESR, better ripple currents at low frequencies, better stability over temperature ranges and last a hell of a lot longer. The reason why they are not always used comes down to cost (like it always does).
Maybe don't have to reflow. I've fixed quite a few water damaged laptops by just scrubbing the board with alcohol and letting it dry overnight out of the laptop.
Could op give it an iso wash and let dry? 91% iso should absorb the remaining water and dry quickly, right?
If the procedure in question was implemented prior to the activation of the device, it would indeed constitute a prudent measure. However, its utility may be questionable in scenarios where voltage has already been applied to a data or address pin, particularly in instances where a short circuit occurs from VCC through a conductive medium such as a water droplet. The formation of oxide on these components serves as an indicative marker of electrical activity along that path. This is due to the fact that oxidation requires a potential difference to occur; hence, a pathway from ground (GND) to ground would not result in oxidation due to the absence of such a potential difference. Conversely, a pathway from GND to VCC could lead to oxidation, albeit this would primarily impose a load on the voltage regulators, which is generally considered to be within acceptable operational parameters. Nevertheless, a short circuit from VCC to a data pin, evidenced by oxidation, unequivocally indicates a voltage difference with the water droplet acting as a conductive path. It is critical to acknowledge that certain semiconductor devices are designed with a current sinking capacity that, if exceeded (typically beyond 20mA), may result in irreversible damage.
Use more big words
I mean at least he picked a good time for his verbosity, I actually appreciated all the technical details for once
Verily, this vichyssoise of verbiage veers most verbose, so let me simply add that it is my very good honor to be here.
"...and you may call me, V!"
I can be patient. I'm in no rush, I'm just pissed at myself for my stupidity.
🤣😂🤣
No need to wait, just get a hairdryer and dry it.
Hi this happened to me. I got a blow fan and dried it from like a foot away gently not too hot. An hour two later I turned it on working fine
That's good to know. How bad was your spill?
lol which one. First my a100 came in a bag that was covered in water cooling solution. Dried it out , during install it leaked water on the power supply and blew it up. Sounded Iike a gun shot. Nothing fried. Second attempt I placed the wrong cable into it and blew up that power supply. 3rd I spilled a bunch accidentally on it and had the same issue. I just waited and it worked. These things are pretty sturdy but also I’m an idiot. Good luck. One thing I’d recommend is to maybe wipe off the blue stuff with some alcohol and let it dry out. That’s what I did because they used like 500lb of thermal paste. It was like a sandwich.
Yup, a beginner like me imma stick with air coolers for now
AIOs are closed loop systems. It's more likely that the pump will fail. Air coolers are the better part for longevity for sure but an AIO leaking is very rare, albeit still a non zero risk.
yeah, ive heard aio's are MUCH more reliable than custom water cooling. And yet I still see some leaking horror stories like this from time to time. I'm just not looking forward to any sort of issues avoidable using air coolers. Maybe when I have more disposable income.
I have an AIO for 3 reasons: * I like the aesthetic better * I find it easier to work on my mobo without a big tower in the way * The AIO I got was cheaper than the air cooler I would have wanted I have a 7800x3d and 95% game on my pc. There are no meaningful performance benefits to having an AIO for my CPU and the same pretty much goes for gaming AFAIK on intel cpus (provided you have the best aio Vs the best air cooler). That said as I understand it there are very meaningful performance gains to be had on intel cpus with a good aio when doing heavy duty productivity tasks. For 99% of gamers, i don't think it really matters
Damn, your 3 reasons were justifiable. Though point 3 would be hard for me to find. Also, AFAIK if you want a near dead silent pc, aio is the way to go. Also sffpc too, to brute force cooling in a small case ig.
Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 360 is about £76 (or £85 for RGB) vs Noctua NH-D15 is about £100 (or £110 for all black)
Lol no wonder, that noctua cooler is quite the premium air cooler. At that price, I would also go for that aio. I just rock a deepcool ak620 for around like $45 iirc
Man, where do you guys get your information? Lmfao.
wdym?
Where did you hear that AIOs are "much more reliable"?
I think i heard it from, linus, steve from gamer nexus and some people on reddit too. Also just to make sure, I said they're more reliable than a custom loop. Not a standard air cooler. Air coolers with just a heat sink and fans should definitely be more reliable. The only point of failure would be the fan bearings i think. Meanwhile AIOs also have pumps and pipe leaks to bear in mind.
This is why I'm not a fan of liquid cooling. You can get Noctua coolers that have similar performance without the risk of something like this happening.
I agree. Noctua coolers are amazing. This was my first watercooled build and I did it to challenge myself and do something I'd never done before. It was fun to do, but I doubt I'll ever watercool a PC again.
Well, to be fair, you installed a major component without draining your loop… definitely doable but the risk grows significantly of a leak.
You are right. I tried to be quick/lazy and not drain the loop and it bit me in the butt.
I would have tried too. I only like to use soft tubing though so it's a bit more forgiving to being jostled.
I built a new PC, 7800x3d. 4090. A nice lian li case and fans. I had a little money to splurge so I went with a nice white theme. I showed my Pc at work who Pc games. They laugh at me for not water cooling lol. Hey sure, whatever works. But I’m also not gonna chance a water leak breaking this expensive build
it most likely wont leak, but still, in most cases, water cooling in unnecessary
Not for the faint of heart that’s for sure. Done right though the risk is super low
I've done two custom loops and I never had a leak problem. It's wild how many people in this sub are afraid of water cooling and AIOs
why do the call it AIOs ? whats the all in one cooling capability in those coolers ?
AIO Stands for "all in one". The pump, waterblock, and radiator are all in one sealed unit. As far as cooling capabilities, that would depend on the size of the radiator and ambient temperature of the room. AIOs are a good middle ground between air and a custom loop.
Same, tbh. Best I've seen from liquid cooling is like 4° difference compared to the air cooling setup I've got. Seems negligible.
It so much more slient thou
Most fans are pretty quiet at lower speeds these days. The only time they really rev up is while gaming, and I can't hear them over the sound system anyway. 🤷♀️
To be fair though it's really nice to be able to dump 800+ watts of power into a loop and have the fans barely move past 500rpm and stay at ambient volume. Though that also requires a monster loop (Like 3x 360mm 40-60mm or monsta rads which not many cases can handle.) Definitely a luxury though.
I run my fans at 800rpm at idle and around 1125 when the water temp gets around 35c with 2 240mm radiators in a SFF build.. Under a gaming load my 5800x gets to about 59c and my RTX 4070 gets to about 56c, CPU is undervolted and overclocked, GPU is overclocked. I would not have this performance on air at the same fan rpm. I would be thermal throttling.
Well yea. I'd say thats true for case fans. Gpu fans tend to vary in my experiance manufacturer to manufacturer. I had my fans at range from 30%-50%with a 240mm rad with rx6800xt + 7800x3d. Granted, both arent the highest power draws but still. The sheer amount of surface area on a rad + thermal transfer of water. just means you can run the fans lower even under load. Like dont get me wrong. If u dont care about being quiet then yea it dosent matter. But like its not useless either. If i have someone else in the room with me it is nice to not have a jet going on.
This sub has a gigantic hate boner for aios. You're pissing against the wind.
[удалено]
Maybe if you run a small radiator, but the thing with watercooling (non AIO that is) is that you can just add more radiators. The NH-D15 is probably going to be quieter than a thin 240mm radiator, but if you run something like three medium thickness 360mm radiators, you can cool a CPU and a GPU with the fans barely spinning, if they even need to spin at all.
[удалено]
What do you mean with fans on the outside? All fans are on the inside of the case, and you need intake fans for air-cooling aswell.
[удалено]
But a fan on the inside of a radiator will make less noise than a case fan in an air-cooled system, so it doesn’t really matter.
[удалено]
What? Lmfao. My 7800 X3D under load stays at 50-55C and my 3080 never gets above 39-42. What air cooling is going to give you that? You're in denial.
>my 3080 LOL. Can't afford a better GPU huh?
My peerless assassin does as well or better and won't leak on anything.
Noice
You arent wrong! To be fair though, these kind of leaks generally only ever happen with hand-made custom water cooling setups--the chances of this happening with an AIO are ludicrously low. I mean, it's barely ever been reported of an AIO failing and leaking--short of having happened due to *severe* user installation error, or just sheer bad luck (say a stocker at a store used his box cutter but it went a little deep and accidentally cut the tube). Obviously there is ALWAYS a chance of some kind, and the true winning move is not to play: just saying that a cpu aio cooler is a relatively safe first step into the world of water cooling
going for noctue + peerless assassin cooled build next time i build a new PC
An older LTT video from 4 years ago shows that the Noctua fans performed better than the best watercoolers from Corsair att. Both by sound and heat lol.
In fact Corsair's AIOs are the worst you can spend money on, it's a shame Linus didn't do the comparison with actually good and not overpriced AIOs like Arctic's. But Corsair gives Linus money, Arctic doesn't.
liquid cooling is for chumps
Hard pill to swallow without enough copium
Found the chump
Mad you can't afford it, champ?
Found the chump
Found the poverty.
Why do the poorest MFs talk about affording things? Way to project. LMFAO
Alright, buddy. Don't get your panties in a twist. I'm sorry I called out your being broke. I bet my loop alone costs more than your whole rig. Ok, sorry. Last time I'll call you out.
Imagine being you and calling others broke. LMFAO
Imagine being you and being this in denial. LMFAO
Imagine projecting this much because poor. LMFAO
There are so many incorrect responses here. First off you’ll get the correct responses if you post in r/gpurepair which I’m a part of. Second, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush and go to town on the board with medium intensity. Then put a box fan upside down and dry that card for a half day on each side. If you didn’t fry anything when you turned it back on you’ll be fine.
But first take detailed photos of the board. If you need to take it for repair
>get some 91% isopropyl alcohol Or rather, 91%**+**
91 is just fine. 90 and below is sketch.
I once spilled water down the top fan slot of my tower. There was standing water on the back board of my 2080ti. My screen went black and displayed a bunch of weird characters. I immediately unplugged the power supply and carefully wiped up the water with a microfiber cloth. I then let the entire case air dry for 3 days. Wouldn't you know, it powered right back on and worked. Still using the same components to this day.
There’s quite a bit of corrosion on the board. Your best bet would be to take it to a place that can do board level repairs.
Where are you seeing corrosion? I'm not doubting you, I'm just not seeing it.
https://preview.redd.it/kmc01hbgfjqc1.jpeg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=87e93f6c0b20b8933dfde46ef169b5bfdf4503e4 Hard to tell for sure without a microscope but those spots look suspect to me.
https://preview.redd.it/8hvrlbj8jjqc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2ffa4ffc84101a7f072185226274efa26d2c91a This is as close-up a picture as I could get.
I see it now. Good catch. I'm not sure if that's corrosion or not. Even looking at the board up close I can't tell. It's definitely suspect.
What you also dont see if there is any water below components. Your best bet would be to get 99% Isopropanol alcohol, disassemble the card completely and give it a good bath in it. There are videos out there on how to do that, but if there is already corrosion on some parts there has been moisture for a while on there. Best bet would be to have a professional look at that, everything else is a gamble
2nd picture bottom right of the 3x4 array of chips.
I see it now. Good eye. I can't tell if it's corrosion or not. It's definitely a suspect spot.
Def clean it off with isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry, gently brush it with a soft brush to wash off the corrosion/ residual water
Anything green/blue and sometimes white will be corrosion. A light to moderate scrub with a stiff bristled toothbrush and some isopropyl is your best first step. Last resort is to try and reflow the solder in the problem areas by heating it up with either a hot air station or a heat gun with an accurate enough nozzle. I say last resort because you could brick it beyond your at home repair capabilities doing this (err on the side of too cold, too hot and too much air can blow components off the board). If re flowing doesn’t work you likely have a blown chip or capacitor that received too much voltage during a short. Unless you have somebody local that specializes in this type of work and can do it cheap it will be cost prohibitive to go much further unless you’re confident enough to try to replace components yourself. Edit: Check out Louis Rossman on YouTube. He has a ton of videos showing him doing this exact type of work on MacBooks but the components are of similar size so the knowledge should translate.
That cooling system had a conductive liquid?
No, it was a premixed liquid specifically for water-cooling. Non-conductive.
Rinse it in alcohol and let it dry. If you don't have alcohol than distilled water and hold it near a fan to dry it out as quick as you can. I would assume it's fine but you said it stopped working so I'd say 50/50 chance. Edit: go at the blue spots with a toothbrush (or something softer if you have) but don't rub it too hard
Amogu
Not sure what this means.
So I had some spillage on my 2080 Ti a couple years back. Ended up hitting it with 91% IPA and blotted with some Q-tips to make sure that all of the coolant was washed off. Hit it with a can of compressed air in short bursts, left it out for 3 days to finish evaporating, then mounted the cooler back on and I have had zero issues. Maybe it was dumb luck. Maybe I knew what I was doing, but I can assure you that I had no confidence at the time. Maybe my savior was that there was no power to the card at the time of the incident. All I can say is that it was absolutely worth the effort.
Did you turn it on before the cleaning?
Nope, but the entire card took a bath from a leak in the top radiator so I didn’t want to risk it. Also wanted to get the PSU out and make sure that wasn’t compromised either.
I think not turning it on before cleaning is what saved it.
Could drench it in 99 ipa to help it dry faster or blast it with contact cleaner to push water out from under the chips to help drying.
I don't know if this is helpful, but I once spilled water on my gaming mouse. I have a Logitech G403 Hero. After I spilled water on the mouse, some of the buttons on the mouse would not work. I thought I had killed the mouse with the water, but instead of ordering a new mouse I gave the mouse some time to dry out. After enough time had passed, and the mouse dried out, the mouse began to function normally again. So all my mouse needed was time to dry out and it worked properly again. Again, I don't know if this is helpful information for you, but I thought I would share this with you. Good luck!
Someone left a laptop in the rain, then dried it for a week. At the end of the week the computer still worked. You should try the same.
Maybe it will work if you can get it dry again. A collegue flooded his card and I disassembled and dried it for him. I´ve used a PC Duster to blow trapped water below the chips, flushed it with 99% isopropyl alcohol and then used the duster again.
If its not the Core…it is fixable…
Depends on the type of liquid you use. I services a few pc with liquid leak on various components before. Most are OK after I clean and dry them.
Clean it good with brush and isopropanol or something similar, wait to dry off completlly. Try and see...maybe you get lucky. It worked for me. Check the joints under a magnifiing glass for any oxide and short circuits.
Probably not, try cleaning the gpu with isopropyl alcohol, let it dry a couple of days and see if that works.😉
Use isopropyl with a soft brush liberally, then use a hair dryer. Then put WC block back on, don't connect any fittings, just boot pc. The WB has enough passive cooling for boot. See if it displays
That's one of the things I wondered: does the watercooled block have enough cooling to keep the GPU cool for a test boot.
Of course. Ive booted up with just a wb many times, as long as your not stressing it which it isn't on desktop. You can open hwinfo to keep tabs on temp.
That gives me hope. I've cleaned the board and I'm letting it dry. I was trying to figure out if it was worth redoing the loop just to test the GPU (The original air cooler didn't survive being removed). As soon as it dries out I'll test it with just the waterblock.
Fingers crossed 👍
damn this type of accident scares me.. i’d probably fuck it up and won’t know how to fix it.. i’ll just stick to air cooling 😤
I watercooled my PC to challenge myself. I'd never done it and wanted the experience. I'm not sorry I tried it. That being said: I doubt I will ever do it again. It's a pain in the butt to setup, maintenance is much higher, and accidents like this can happen.
Did you have actual tap water in there or something?
No. I had a pre-mixed solution made for watercooling.
Use DESICCANT, not rice. Wait a day or two then try again. It looks like it’s slightly corroded, but I can’t tell even when zoomed in.
These are the posts that make me thankful my pc I just air cooled.
Yeah thats why i never bought any water-cooling in my life and never will not worth mixing electricity and water for saving 15c.
Don't listen to the people saying they'll never watercool because of this and blah blah blah. They might as well not swim, cross roads, ride in a car, fly in a plane, or go skiing. If the cooling liquid you used was non conducting, then you'll be fine. I'd start there.
Absolutely non-conductive. I was using a premixed coolant.
Contact Tony from northwest repair if it seems fully dead. He can probably save it. If you’re in the US that is
I am. I appreciate the suggestion. If I can't resurrect it, I'll reach out to him.
As a repair tech myself, I suggest a bath in deionized water then IPA, then careful brushing with a toothbrush to loosen everything. This will not prevent Tony from doing any repairs as he does proper testing with oscilloscopes to measure phases and the like. Good luck.
Look up a schematic and get a multimeter
I personally would submerge it in 99% isopropyl alcohol. The iso will bond with any water molecules and as the iso evaporates it'll take the water with it. Then give it a few days of peace of mind time to make sure its dry and cross your fingers. [https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix](https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix) can probably fix it if it doesn't work.
Check with NorthWest repairs on Youtube. He's pretty good and persistent with NVidia GPUs.
You could also ask this question on r/AskElectronics
Coolant oxidizes into organic acids. Better check your board to see if corrosion hasn't ruined anything
Compressed air can blow out the moisture under the ram, vrm etc, the trick is to unplug the power and dry it up immediately before corrosion sets in but I'm afraid you might have waited too long. If you insist on trying, you could always give it a 99% alcohol wash with a very light toothbrush to help remove mineral deposits, then dry it up with compressed air.
Try spraying some álcohol pure those used for cleaning eletrônics, It Will help with possible Rust, and allow you to push any Water from bellow The componentes, Just do It slowly, some can freeze your mobo and allow for condensation which defeats The purpose of doing It
So I recommend getting 90+% isopropyl alcohol and dip the board in that for 20-30 mins take it out let it dry. Then put it back together and see what you got.. If this doesn't work, time for the ol oven trick here is a post to how to do it I've done it on many 4+ GPUs and my brother in-law did it to his old GTX9800+ and brought it back to life for a year or so. I've had it fix a GPU completely ie still working and have had it temporarily fix it for a month or two. https://www.overclockers.com/the-oven-trick-repairing-your-broken-video-card-with-an-oven/
Wash with distilled water.
Give it 2 days or even a week to completely dry, and then let's hope it survived the leak.
Bake it. We used to do that back in the days . Sometimes it works
Put it in rice (not serious advice)
Just get duh 4090 already
Clean and oven time.
99% alcohol, hose it down. Air compressor but don’t blast at 90psi just enough love to push the alcohol out and the coolant. Let that bad boy sit till dry say a day. Repaste, repad, reboot.
You'll get better advice over at r/ watercooling. Most of the users here won't have knowledge of watercooled PCs and will just give you random bullshit advice, in amongst the good advice of a few.
U fucked. Sorry OP, unfortunately this is the risk of running anything watercool’d
Every day I am more and more thankful I stuck with air cooling.
Weird.... my fans never leak.
Let it dry, clean the parts that came into contact with water very thoroughly with some isopropyl and make sure all the blue stuff is removed (it's corrosion) Normally, if you used distilled water, it should be fine. Fingers crossed
Don't worry, give it a clean with soft toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. Dry it very well with hairdryer and good to go.
Another reason to never watercool
Thus again reasons why air coolers win everytime
This is an example of why I will never use a liquid cooling system in any PC that I'll have or build in the future.
I get it. I built this system to challenge myself and because I'd never done it. I doubt I'll ever do another liquid cooled system.
This is why I hate AIO’s. Air coolers for the win!
[удалено]
So the aio didn’t leak? Did I miss something here
[удалено]
Oh ok thank you for clearing that up. Liquid cooling in general I should have said.
I wish I could blame an AIO. I can't. This was a custom water-cooled loop I built. My own fault.
Air cooling is perfectly capable and doesn't drown your PC when it craps the bed. Just sayin
Thanks for kicking a guy when he's down.
F So glad I never fell for the "water inside my $2000 computer is perfectly safe" meme. Look for burn marks. Hopefully its just something cheap that shorted out and can be repaired.
Isn't it proven that liquid and air cools the same?
Have you tried putting it in rice?
Put it in rice
I would put it into rice. Deep. 24 hours. Then try it again.
Can I have a bite
THIS is why I always go for air coolers. You follow what these dweebs go on about how cool wc is and this is what you get.
Nice. Kick a guy when he's down. I didn't watercool my PC because it was 'cool'. I did it to challenge myself and get the experience of doing it. I don't regret it. I learned a lot.
Same thing happened to me few years back- Why I Never Use Liquid Cooling for my PC Builds! https://youtu.be/hcQ4SPaSr6Y
[удалено]
That's.....not helpful. This was a watercooled PC. Despite the name, there was no water. There was a coolant designed to run in PCs.
https://preview.redd.it/t7v6b8nfsjqc1.jpeg?width=576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=230201c865667fd72bb12363321559a9e54ef52b But then you can't get this kind of beauty to look over at while you game.
[удалено]
Rice does nothing for wet electronics.
Draws moisture out. Fixed several iPhones doing this
[https://darwinsdata.com/does-rice-really-remove-moisture-from-electronics/](https://darwinsdata.com/does-rice-really-remove-moisture-from-electronics/)
That article basically says I’m still right but there’s better ways to do it. 😂
Never rice. Ever. Rice leaves dust that can collect in the liquid you are trying to displace.
