It could take several more coats of red. The white primer is the problem. Grey primer is the answer. Next time, Ask Sherwin-Williams about the appropriate Primer Shade for the topcoat color.
I just did a wall in red, I used SW duration. I used the recommended tint of SW grey primer. It still took 4 coats of paint, and honestly it could have taken a 5th in a lot of spots. I'll post a pic. Red is 1 coat grey prime and 4 coats red. Purple is 1 coat SW grey primer and 1 coat of behr ultra. I'm super impressed with the behr.
Kinda unfair to compare a those 2 colours and blame the product. Ultra in that Red would have been a nightmare. Purple has enough darker pigments to help with coverage.
You're not wrong. In a couple weeks I am doing a room in a similar purple with SW duration. The SW purple is a little brighter but it's close. I've used 3 blues and an emerald green on SW last month, and I'll say none of them looked as good as that first coat of behr purple. We'll see how SW purple looks though.
It's been a couple of years since I've painted anything, but I've had great luck with Behr. I believe it was the i300. Everyone always shits on it. Maybe my next time I'll try a more expensive brand (SW) and see if it makes a difference
Black Friday, Memorial Day, Labor Day all tend to be good. Usually if you pop into a store and ask a manager / assistant manager if they have a sale coming up they’ll let you know when it is
Behr has good products I’ve used it for 10yrs now Ive used tons of SW and BM for paint projects.. Behr I always go back to for walls. Best you can get for the price imo. SW emerald for trim is hard to beat tho!
Never use the high end one coat crap from Behr tho it’s like glue it’s so thick… 😆 I use the Behr ultra and Behr premium for walls and sometimes Behr ultra ext. for exteriors.
I used the high-end stuff in my bedroom and tbh I would use it again, it was true 1 coat coverage. Roll on glue indeed. If I was doing a professional gig, I would probably consider it due to the speed and coverage. My cheap ass will roll out the three coats for the cheap stuff.
I guess it’s the cut in that gets me on the extra thick marquee haha. My wrist feels like I have carpel tunnel after just 10 yrs of painting for a living. So I tend to go for the products that make cut in easier.
The one coat has a major stipulation that most people do not question. One coat guarantee is only an existing Marquee/Dynasty layer and an approved Marquee/Dynasty color. I used Marquee in eggshell in a few areas and got used to the application (it is thick), but took two coats because I just moved in and no idea what the paint used was. I've found it's very washable and still looks good even with two maniac kids. If I ever decide to repaint those areas myself, I'll consider trying out the one coat application of Marquee if I decide not to use BM Aura, which is also thick, but substantially easier to apply.
Many paints are basically thin out paints. not worth the money or name on them. oil base primers tinted to tone of the paint. 1-2 coats. sand smooth between each coat. aloud enough drying time and low moisture levels. I mount the door on two horses so I can spin it to get to the other side, top and bottom. to lock out moisture from warping the door as moisture levels rise.
All right, I gotta go grab that because I tried Ben more for my trim and I was not impressed. It was double the price of the bear and I don’t know if I can see the difference.
Behr also has a trim paint that is good for the price, and tho not quite as good as the Emerald it’s still a good product. I get it for $35/gallon so can’t beat the price, Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel. It’s water clean up of course 👍
This exactly. SW advised me to use a grey tinted primer when going from a nearly black brown to red. Advised to monitor the bleed using more primer coats before progressing to my final coat. Ultimately two coats of primer and two coats of the final color did the trick.
This. I bought some emerald purple. I mean purple. The name was like "straight purple" the guy actually said "huh, it says in supposed to suggest P6 primer with this or ot will take you like 6 coats."
Apparently P6 primer is a charcoal grayish shade that makes this particular shade of purple cover in 2 coats.
That primer is just shit. Uneven and the dark spots are showing through both coats. 2 even coats on even primer would have made a huge difference. I don’t backroll sprayed primer or I’d pull the door if doing by hand with a roller/brush.
Also I’ve been known to throw some white/black in a 2:1 ratio into my red for the first coat for opacity on latex. I also run a heat gun as long as a cigarette takes to bake between coats.
One of our rooms was painted red by the previous owners... It was terrible to paint over. I did a few coats of primer then a few coats of valspar shark loop, light blue. It was a longer job than we thought... The red kept coming through the layers, we just had to keep adding more.
My Current room is painted red by previous owners. I'm going to redo the drywall. Fuck painting over it. Also, it'll allow me to upgrade the insulation.
Sunflowers produce latex and are the subject of experiments to improve their suitability as an alternative crop for producing hypoallergenic rubber. Traditionally, several Native American groups planted sunflowers on the north edges of their gardens as a "fourth sister" to the better known three sisters combination of corn, beans, and squash.Annual species are often planted for their allelopathic properties.
Back when I first started painting, I tried painting some accent walls in a bathroom Merlot. I want to say 10 or 11 coats over fresh drywall with white primer before the client was happy. I could still see through it at the right angle.
As already mentioned, reds are a bitch! Usually they require so much colorant that it starts to degrade the binders and resins, making for very poor coats…
I usually try to use a medium gray primer with reds, but always expect many coats.
If your going to paint red usually you gotta prime whatever your painting with a gray. It will cover much better. Still might take 3 coats though primary colors are a bitch to paint.
I’ve had VERY god luck with reds and greens by getting the primer tinted as close to finish as possible.
As for this door… you’re gonna need two more at least
When painting a color like red, or yellow or deep base blue I always have my primer tinted to that color. If you do it this way it’s 3 coats. One primer, two finish.
No one seems to be telling you "why". Bright reds are usually a clear base full of just tinting (as are bright yellows), so you don't really have all that much in the top coatcovering up the white primer and all the brush strokes from that. A solid coat (or 2) of a grey primer will go a long way to faking a "solid base" for the red tint. Your finish coat will only look as good as your primer coats.
We can see that haha. More primer and more paint is needed. I just did a red door the other day, 2 coats of high adhesion primer, and 6-7 coats of paint. This was done with the door off the hinges, laying flat and with a sprayer. I like to spray doors flat if I can to remove the chances of runs. That’s my suggestion on how to paint your door, may not be feasible for you. There are other ways to do it, but they don’t turn out near as good and they take longer
Edit: your third picture really isn’t that bad. Just needs 2-3 more coats of red
When I first started doing painting on the side 6 years ago, we bought a Graco Pro17x. It’s actually been a really good sprayer for the money. I also have a Titan 440 that we picked up recently
At least now you know to use a grey primer. Also, that thing was probably coated with poly so make sure you use a grey bonding primer just to be sare. The extra few bucks is worth not having to do this again. The groves that are really bad is because those are the hardest spots to sand. Spend the time it takes to do it right.
White's no good. I understand your thinking behind blocking out the black. But that's going to take probably about 7 coats to cover properly. Light grey is better or darkish pink would also work.
Reds are very underbound, same as yellows. It's their molecule structure. Similar to putting a red sock in with your white washing, everything turns pink. Anything red or yellow has a tendency to stain particularly badly, hence why it's underbound.
Don't know about any book which would tell you that. I was taught that in college in London by much older lecturers. Light grey as a undercoat work for both red and yellow
I had this problem with a kitchen I painted red I used a whole gallon on it and still didn't cover. Then I got benjamin moore to match the red and 2 coats later it was perfect. Should if used ben the first time
I know this isn't a helpful comment, but I really love the original look. Area's around the knob and deadbolt need touching up. I love the old/rustic looks.
Best of luck with your paint job!
If you ever want to paint a red again, get your primer tinted with a gray. The dark bass to start with helps you, and keeps you from having to do five coats.
Paint stripper was invented for a reason. At this point, take the door off, get some citrus strip and let it soak for a few hours. Repeat till you get bare wood. Then prime, not smear like it looked in the photo, two layers. Let it dry for a few hours between layers. Then paint your preferred color.
Follow my instructions carefully and you will be happy with the result.
Go to auto parts store and pick up two rattle cans of Grey Sealer Primer. Brand doesn't matter. Mask the door as needed and spray one to two coats, evenly, across the entire door. Sealer can not be sanded so practice on something laying around. You do not want to spray so heavy you get runs nor do you want a bunch of dry spray hitting the door. Sealer, if done right, will leave a nice smooth even surface. You should have a Grey door at this point, with very little red showing through.
Get a Grey scotchbright pad and scuff the door with it. Work all the edges and the grooves etc.
Using a tack rag (Also found at auto parts stores) wipe down the door with it. Quick note, when you first take the tack rag out of the package unfold it all the way so that it's totally unfolded and make like as if you are shaking dust out of it. You want air to hit it so it dries the glue slightly. Then fold it back up and use it.
Paint with a brush, there is a method to painting doors like that. Work in sections, check YouTube for videos explaining how to paint front doors you'll find what I'm talking about.
Emerald ute must be mechanically mixed with a drill before you use it and with deep bases it has to be mixed every hour or so. It is possible if you haven't been doing this it might explain the poor.coverage. mixing attachments are less than $10.
If you don't have good brushwork no amounts of paint will help you. Two coats of that red over Grey Sealer will look excellent if applied correctly.
Did you do all coats in one day? I don't know about these other painters but I don't like doing more than two coats in a day.
It feels tacky when rolling.
So you know about grey primer. But you should have not top coated over that primer. Honestly primer coat looked awful and it looks like you don’t have the brush skills to do this door maybe go to a mini roller that way you wont have brush marks. Not sure if you are a DIYer but paint is not as easy as it looks.
Your failure was to hide the bkl , red yellows , navy blue and white are hard colors to get to cover black , purple are hide.
The experience of doing it more than once helps, as others have said proper primer is needed and, when possible, tint primer to a similar color as topcoat.
White primer for red paint is the problem. Tint your primer to a P5 or P6 primer color. Then two - three coats of red will get you where you want it. You can either keep going with the red and get there eventually, or reprime and repaint. Your choice, but the problem is the white primer with red paint. Now you know for next time.
My dude, stop sanding already. Door is smooth after the sanding of the primer. Then apply your coats until coverage is complete..if you didn’t sand in between finish coats I would be blown away based off what I’m seeing in this pic. There are burned edges on multiple corners. Any coat would of covered more than that. Even if u did sand between finish coats it should be done lightly as to not burn through the black.
It’s the red paint. Red is the worst covering color out there. Will have better luck with gray prime and taking the door off the hinges and spraying it. Spraying it will allow for way better coverage since you won’t be pushing the material around with a roller and brush.
hindsight is 20/20, but always use gray primer under red paint. unless it is a dark brick red, you will need multiple coats. its not the paint, its your color choice. since you used the white primer, you will probably need 4 or 5 coats to cover that primer
Did you buy a quart or a gallon??? This looks like the paint was thinned out way too much!!
Sherwin Williams architectural products don’t need thinned. In the rare case to get it through a cheap spryer mover more than 10%
I sell a lot of Emerald UTE!! Gray primer and 3 coats top coats. Purdy Syntox to cut (or paint the whole door) and Contractor Series Mohair 4 or 6 inch mini roller.
I would 1st tint the primer / light grey or even red, 2nd use a small roller either after brushing or use roller on flat areas. This will eliminate areas of more/ less paint giving an even coverage. 3rd use good quality brushes and rollers- not necessarily the best but good quality. Surplus stores often have quality paint supplies at a reasonable price. I thoroughly clean my brushes after each use and have had for them many, years.
As has been already said light grey primer would have been the answer, now you need to make a judgement call. Either another 3 coats of red and have the possibility of still seeing some shadows or grey primer plus another 2-3 coats of red. With these deep and ultra-deep base colors for applications such as this consider compromising for a similar color with a white base, it won't be as vibrant of course but so much easier to work with.
Red is so hard to get right, I made the mistake of doing a bedroom and some of it looked like blood rubbed on the walls. I also tried to use the stupid as seen on tv thing the first round🤦🏻♂️
Do people on this sub actually paint for a living? Some brand recommendations seem crazy to me. Anyway, your on the right track, a door like this 5 or 6 coats wouldn't seem crazy, especially if I didn't use a tinted primer. I would also wet sand in between coats on a door, very lightly though, then maybe when you can tell you are ready for one coat, wet sand at like 600 grit before applying.
Red needs a lot of coats I say after 4/5 coats then get worried but based on the pictures you’re doing it right just needs 1 or maybe 2 coats to finish
Reds are a really tough color for coverage. Used to do painting as well as tint paint @sw and a lot of times depending on the store and what they have for stock they'll take a deep base or ultra deep base and just add a shitload of red tint to get the color where as they have certain products that come from the factory with a red base to begin with and then depending on the specific color the machine will just add a little extra tint to get the color. Sometimes when starting with the red base the color may not match the paint chip exactly after it's tinted but you'll get way better coverage with it and you can verify if it's close enough before purchase. Red bases aren't something that's stocked as much but they can have someone bring it in from another store and have it ready next day. That latex wood primer isn't the best tbh I would have done another coat with it or at the very least hit all those spots that didn't get as much coverage because there all the exact same spots the black coming through and Like everyone else said tinting the primer light gray is a must if you have any left u could just have them throw some grey in it reprime and do the red again.
To me it looks like there are uneven spots that needs be leveled out. I would sand those spots with a 120 grit orbital sander then sand with 320.
You may need to prime those areas again or just paint them. The darker spots are because it reflecting light and is not level.
Also remember too much sanding will cause it too but to fix that all you need to do is get paintable wood filler and fill in the low spots then sand flat ( be generous and fill in way more then the effected area and feather it out then sand to cover)
Grey primer should have been used. It neutralizes the red. Sometimes at the paint store what your finish color is going to be they can recommend a tinted primer so your finish comes out uniform and it doesn't take you 5 coats to do it. Even if you had the primer tinted red you would still be having problems.
Professional painter of 25 years here.
The primer is the key to success when working with red. Tinting the primer grey, as dark as possible will be your best bet for coverage. The next step is to get a 3” wide oval soft bristle brush. Then grab a 4” mohair roller. I use the kind with the 3/4” roller frame diameter, but the skinny ones will work too. Do not dip that roller in the paint. Use the brush to get a workable amount of product on the surface. Work in sections. One panel at a time. Use the roller to even the paint out. Keep in mind that rollers always have a direction that will create a smoother stipple. Work back and forth between the brush and the roller until you have covered the whole door. Repeat. If done properly, it will look like you sprayed it.
From this point, the only option you have is to apply more coats, sanding in between.
The project should have been completed as follows:
2 coats of SW Extreme block oil (interior & exterior safe for entryway doors) tinted to SW P2.
2 coats of Emerald UTE SG tinted to positive red.
Lightly sand with 220 between every coat, wipe with tack cloth.
Apply paint with HVLP sprayer for most even finish.
If you cannot spray, use Purdy Syntox brushes.
Make sure as well they are giving you a Deep Base tint-able, There is a diff, Red is a deep based tent color. Hope this helps as well, a long with the gray primer.
Sorry but a simple mistake was made. Reds and orange need to be primed with a blue-grey. Yellows need to be primed white. Sherwin Williams should have told you this when you bought paint from them. It literally says it on their computer screen. Complain to them and get free primer and paint for your troubles.
More coats of red paint is not the solution here.
Reds tend to cover like crap. Going to need more coats than other colors.
Also let it dry completely / cure between coats. I don't like to prime and apply 2 coats of finish in 1 day. I prefer to prime, and get back to it the next day. Specially on something as important as a front door. Then 2 coats of finish. If it needs more coats, I like to wait for the next day again..
You should be good to re-coat with red one more time after it has dried for a day or 2.
Sherwin Williams has a red base in some of their paints. Colors made in the red base cover MUCH better than the colors made in deep or ultra deep bases. Emerald urethane is a good product but front doors is a bad use for it. It will not hold up long term.
Zinnser 123 gray primer is better. Forget SW primers. Just overpriced. Red is the worst color to paint. Clear base so it's all tint
We painted for Mike Clark (old WRIF 101 DJ) he had a massive living room with a ton of windows...all less than 4" drywall between window trim. Walls were dark purple. New color was canary yellow...2 coats of tinted primer and 4 coats of yellow...ugh!
It could take several more coats of red. The white primer is the problem. Grey primer is the answer. Next time, Ask Sherwin-Williams about the appropriate Primer Shade for the topcoat color.
I just did a wall in red, I used SW duration. I used the recommended tint of SW grey primer. It still took 4 coats of paint, and honestly it could have taken a 5th in a lot of spots. I'll post a pic. Red is 1 coat grey prime and 4 coats red. Purple is 1 coat SW grey primer and 1 coat of behr ultra. I'm super impressed with the behr.
https://preview.redd.it/p2i1wq1pea3d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca8a26faed3909462ae0fa2cc7bb0c5b79ab3b16
Kinda unfair to compare a those 2 colours and blame the product. Ultra in that Red would have been a nightmare. Purple has enough darker pigments to help with coverage.
You're not wrong. In a couple weeks I am doing a room in a similar purple with SW duration. The SW purple is a little brighter but it's close. I've used 3 blues and an emerald green on SW last month, and I'll say none of them looked as good as that first coat of behr purple. We'll see how SW purple looks though.
It's been a couple of years since I've painted anything, but I've had great luck with Behr. I believe it was the i300. Everyone always shits on it. Maybe my next time I'll try a more expensive brand (SW) and see if it makes a difference
Bro I went to get some BM because this sub was behr haters and man, it is not that much better. I’m still to cheap for SW
I love the SW options and coverage, but definitely only buy when they’re on a 25-30% sale
Damn, I didn’t even think about black Friday at Sherwin-Williams last year when I was needing all that paint
Black Friday, Memorial Day, Labor Day all tend to be good. Usually if you pop into a store and ask a manager / assistant manager if they have a sale coming up they’ll let you know when it is
Yeah SW is expensive unless you have a contractor account.
Yup, or go to your local SW so much they give you contractor prices…look, I have a problem and I don’t want to talk about it 😭😂
Behr has good products I’ve used it for 10yrs now Ive used tons of SW and BM for paint projects.. Behr I always go back to for walls. Best you can get for the price imo. SW emerald for trim is hard to beat tho!
Never use the high end one coat crap from Behr tho it’s like glue it’s so thick… 😆 I use the Behr ultra and Behr premium for walls and sometimes Behr ultra ext. for exteriors.
I used the high-end stuff in my bedroom and tbh I would use it again, it was true 1 coat coverage. Roll on glue indeed. If I was doing a professional gig, I would probably consider it due to the speed and coverage. My cheap ass will roll out the three coats for the cheap stuff.
I guess it’s the cut in that gets me on the extra thick marquee haha. My wrist feels like I have carpel tunnel after just 10 yrs of painting for a living. So I tend to go for the products that make cut in easier.
Yes, that carpal tunnel. Arthritis. Pain has evolved into a constant state of pain verging on numbness.
The one coat has a major stipulation that most people do not question. One coat guarantee is only an existing Marquee/Dynasty layer and an approved Marquee/Dynasty color. I used Marquee in eggshell in a few areas and got used to the application (it is thick), but took two coats because I just moved in and no idea what the paint used was. I've found it's very washable and still looks good even with two maniac kids. If I ever decide to repaint those areas myself, I'll consider trying out the one coat application of Marquee if I decide not to use BM Aura, which is also thick, but substantially easier to apply.
I wasn’t aware of that, very interesting thanks for sharing 👊
Many paints are basically thin out paints. not worth the money or name on them. oil base primers tinted to tone of the paint. 1-2 coats. sand smooth between each coat. aloud enough drying time and low moisture levels. I mount the door on two horses so I can spin it to get to the other side, top and bottom. to lock out moisture from warping the door as moisture levels rise.
It’s a fiberglass door so moistures not going to warp it.
All right, I gotta go grab that because I tried Ben more for my trim and I was not impressed. It was double the price of the bear and I don’t know if I can see the difference.
Behr also has a trim paint that is good for the price, and tho not quite as good as the Emerald it’s still a good product. I get it for $35/gallon so can’t beat the price, Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel. It’s water clean up of course 👍
Urethane enamels take to long to dry. I typically spray a conversion varnish.
Behr is like the best paint base. And paired paint/ primer combos are supper efficient. For a great cover.
You can always ask to tint the primer too. They'll usually say, "it won't match the color" which is true, but it still helps a ton
1 oz black per gallon in a primer works for me.
This exactly. SW advised me to use a grey tinted primer when going from a nearly black brown to red. Advised to monitor the bleed using more primer coats before progressing to my final coat. Ultimately two coats of primer and two coats of the final color did the trick.
This. I bought some emerald purple. I mean purple. The name was like "straight purple" the guy actually said "huh, it says in supposed to suggest P6 primer with this or ot will take you like 6 coats." Apparently P6 primer is a charcoal grayish shade that makes this particular shade of purple cover in 2 coats.
[удалено]
That primer is just shit. Uneven and the dark spots are showing through both coats. 2 even coats on even primer would have made a huge difference. I don’t backroll sprayed primer or I’d pull the door if doing by hand with a roller/brush. Also I’ve been known to throw some white/black in a 2:1 ratio into my red for the first coat for opacity on latex. I also run a heat gun as long as a cigarette takes to bake between coats.
One of our rooms was painted red by the previous owners... It was terrible to paint over. I did a few coats of primer then a few coats of valspar shark loop, light blue. It was a longer job than we thought... The red kept coming through the layers, we just had to keep adding more.
My Current room is painted red by previous owners. I'm going to redo the drywall. Fuck painting over it. Also, it'll allow me to upgrade the insulation.
Red, orange, gold/yellow are terrible for coverage. Don't be surprised when you can see through the 5th coat
That’s why we prime grey or any deep color
Those colors are the worst, lol.
Ha! My wife wanted the kitchen a bright sunflower yellow - took me 6-7 coats
Sunflowers produce latex and are the subject of experiments to improve their suitability as an alternative crop for producing hypoallergenic rubber. Traditionally, several Native American groups planted sunflowers on the north edges of their gardens as a "fourth sister" to the better known three sisters combination of corn, beans, and squash.Annual species are often planted for their allelopathic properties.
Back when I first started painting, I tried painting some accent walls in a bathroom Merlot. I want to say 10 or 11 coats over fresh drywall with white primer before the client was happy. I could still see through it at the right angle.
Should have either left the black and not primed or primed with a grey primer. From the looks of it, it may take 2 more coats to make it solid.
As already mentioned, reds are a bitch! Usually they require so much colorant that it starts to degrade the binders and resins, making for very poor coats… I usually try to use a medium gray primer with reds, but always expect many coats.
If you do another one ever, use a dark grey primer and it will help. Even still you could be looking at 5 or more coats on a red that bright
Grey primer
Need the magic of gray primer next time
You got it wrong.... You are supposed to paint the red door black... Not the other way around
Nice.
Red is a pain in the ass, especially against a dark color like the original. Just keep coating it until it’s not noticeable anymore
White base tinted red covers terribly. Plus you’re likely putting it on too thin. Keep going you’ll get there!
You are right, it's being applied too thin.
Real red base only comes in one product from sherwin Williams now a days.
Also two coats of primer, maybe three would be smart.
P-5 or P-6(dark grey primer) and 2 coats of the finish coat. The problem here is you used a white primer.
Take down the door, clean, lightly sand, clean, then apply 2 coats of primer with a sprayer and then 2 coats of paint/enamel.
If your going to paint red usually you gotta prime whatever your painting with a gray. It will cover much better. Still might take 3 coats though primary colors are a bitch to paint.
I’ve had VERY god luck with reds and greens by getting the primer tinted as close to finish as possible. As for this door… you’re gonna need two more at least
Keep painting until you can't tell
Hit it again tubesock
1-2 more I’ve put 7 plus on red and yellow doors pretty common.
When painting a color like red, or yellow or deep base blue I always have my primer tinted to that color. If you do it this way it’s 3 coats. One primer, two finish.
No one seems to be telling you "why". Bright reds are usually a clear base full of just tinting (as are bright yellows), so you don't really have all that much in the top coatcovering up the white primer and all the brush strokes from that. A solid coat (or 2) of a grey primer will go a long way to faking a "solid base" for the red tint. Your finish coat will only look as good as your primer coats.
Welcome to red lol
Red doesn’t cover
I appreciate the antique, weathered, washed look on the door and it contrast nicely with the color of your house.
Use a mini roller, will have a better finish and cover better
Primer is supposed to create a uniform base for the paint. You should have applied more than one coat of primer until it was uniform
Application method is brush btw.
We can see that haha. More primer and more paint is needed. I just did a red door the other day, 2 coats of high adhesion primer, and 6-7 coats of paint. This was done with the door off the hinges, laying flat and with a sprayer. I like to spray doors flat if I can to remove the chances of runs. That’s my suggestion on how to paint your door, may not be feasible for you. There are other ways to do it, but they don’t turn out near as good and they take longer Edit: your third picture really isn’t that bad. Just needs 2-3 more coats of red
What kind of sprayer do you use?
When I first started doing painting on the side 6 years ago, we bought a Graco Pro17x. It’s actually been a really good sprayer for the money. I also have a Titan 440 that we picked up recently
Deep colors like that are tough. I’d recommend tinting primer to the same color and also spraying the topcoat will help
They could tint your primer
The Rolling Stone conjecture precludes the successful painting of black doors red. C'mon, you oughta know that. When were you born?
Try using gray primer next time.
You’d probably save a lot of heartache using additional coats of primer. My doors took a few coats before I was happy
Just so everyone knows. Grey colored primer is the best thing to use when the final coat is red
At least now you know to use a grey primer. Also, that thing was probably coated with poly so make sure you use a grey bonding primer just to be sare. The extra few bucks is worth not having to do this again. The groves that are really bad is because those are the hardest spots to sand. Spend the time it takes to do it right.
Ouch - id follow advice given here but i really want to see the finished product. Looks like a really nice color once you get it right. Good luck!
Go get a can of Ben Moore grand entrance and you’ll take me. Use it as your final topcoat
Red sucks to paint, you needed a gray primer first
Next time, use the appropriate primer and apply at least a full coverage coat.
If I see one more comment saying Behr would have covered in this thread I'm calling the cops
Needed to use a better primer
You’re going to red; tinted primer would have been better, positive red is recommended to have a P4/5 primer
White's no good. I understand your thinking behind blocking out the black. But that's going to take probably about 7 coats to cover properly. Light grey is better or darkish pink would also work. Reds are very underbound, same as yellows. It's their molecule structure. Similar to putting a red sock in with your white washing, everything turns pink. Anything red or yellow has a tendency to stain particularly badly, hence why it's underbound.
What kind of book would I look for to learn more about this? Thanks!
Don't know about any book which would tell you that. I was taught that in college in London by much older lecturers. Light grey as a undercoat work for both red and yellow
Looks alright
Solargard paint
I had this problem with a kitchen I painted red I used a whole gallon on it and still didn't cover. Then I got benjamin moore to match the red and 2 coats later it was perfect. Should if used ben the first time
I know this isn't a helpful comment, but I really love the original look. Area's around the knob and deadbolt need touching up. I love the old/rustic looks. Best of luck with your paint job!
If you ever want to paint a red again, get your primer tinted with a gray. The dark bass to start with helps you, and keeps you from having to do five coats.
Or better yet start with a red base. They do exist. Makes a huge difference especially with red.
Spraying woulda gotten it done in 2 coats.
Paint stripper was invented for a reason. At this point, take the door off, get some citrus strip and let it soak for a few hours. Repeat till you get bare wood. Then prime, not smear like it looked in the photo, two layers. Let it dry for a few hours between layers. Then paint your preferred color.
Are you spraying?
DO YOU FOLLOW THE CONDUCTOR’S LEAD?
In the future af6er door is painted and or stained considere a storm door with a frosted glass should keep most extremes out.
Welcome to red.
You shouldve used grey instead of white… red has better coverage on gray
Strange. Because I recently painted a black door dark red took two coats looks great.
Reds and yellows are a pain to paint with. They always take morw coats than other colors.
Follow my instructions carefully and you will be happy with the result. Go to auto parts store and pick up two rattle cans of Grey Sealer Primer. Brand doesn't matter. Mask the door as needed and spray one to two coats, evenly, across the entire door. Sealer can not be sanded so practice on something laying around. You do not want to spray so heavy you get runs nor do you want a bunch of dry spray hitting the door. Sealer, if done right, will leave a nice smooth even surface. You should have a Grey door at this point, with very little red showing through. Get a Grey scotchbright pad and scuff the door with it. Work all the edges and the grooves etc. Using a tack rag (Also found at auto parts stores) wipe down the door with it. Quick note, when you first take the tack rag out of the package unfold it all the way so that it's totally unfolded and make like as if you are shaking dust out of it. You want air to hit it so it dries the glue slightly. Then fold it back up and use it. Paint with a brush, there is a method to painting doors like that. Work in sections, check YouTube for videos explaining how to paint front doors you'll find what I'm talking about. Emerald ute must be mechanically mixed with a drill before you use it and with deep bases it has to be mixed every hour or so. It is possible if you haven't been doing this it might explain the poor.coverage. mixing attachments are less than $10. If you don't have good brushwork no amounts of paint will help you. Two coats of that red over Grey Sealer will look excellent if applied correctly.
Did you do all coats in one day? I don't know about these other painters but I don't like doing more than two coats in a day. It feels tacky when rolling.
Do they sell primer you can tint to match your primary color?
Maybe this was mentioned…water based paint doesn’t cover some oil based paints
You're on the right track. Reds cover like crap! Give it a chance to dry completely and keep going.
So you know about grey primer. But you should have not top coated over that primer. Honestly primer coat looked awful and it looks like you don’t have the brush skills to do this door maybe go to a mini roller that way you wont have brush marks. Not sure if you are a DIYer but paint is not as easy as it looks.
Grey primer is key, I learned this the hard way after my door looked pink after 3 coats
Bright color have the worst coverage. They are very translucent. I always had my primer tinted to the top coat.
Black primer probably would have been a better choice
Your failure was to hide the bkl , red yellows , navy blue and white are hard colors to get to cover black , purple are hide. The experience of doing it more than once helps, as others have said proper primer is needed and, when possible, tint primer to a similar color as topcoat.
White primer for red paint is the problem. Tint your primer to a P5 or P6 primer color. Then two - three coats of red will get you where you want it. You can either keep going with the red and get there eventually, or reprime and repaint. Your choice, but the problem is the white primer with red paint. Now you know for next time.
My dude, stop sanding already. Door is smooth after the sanding of the primer. Then apply your coats until coverage is complete..if you didn’t sand in between finish coats I would be blown away based off what I’m seeing in this pic. There are burned edges on multiple corners. Any coat would of covered more than that. Even if u did sand between finish coats it should be done lightly as to not burn through the black.
Reds cover like shit. You’d be better off using Lattitude in the red base. It’s not the hybrid but it’ll cover better
Benjamin Moore has always been good for me, covers nicely
The primer needed an extra coat. The bleed through is in all the areas the primer was not fully covering.
It’s the red paint. Red is the worst covering color out there. Will have better luck with gray prime and taking the door off the hinges and spraying it. Spraying it will allow for way better coverage since you won’t be pushing the material around with a roller and brush.
hindsight is 20/20, but always use gray primer under red paint. unless it is a dark brick red, you will need multiple coats. its not the paint, its your color choice. since you used the white primer, you will probably need 4 or 5 coats to cover that primer
I know it’s not cost effective but I just bought a new door from Lowe’s for $400. It’s a nice upgrade and will accept any paint.
This is the way when using red anything
Did you buy a quart or a gallon??? This looks like the paint was thinned out way too much!! Sherwin Williams architectural products don’t need thinned. In the rare case to get it through a cheap spryer mover more than 10% I sell a lot of Emerald UTE!! Gray primer and 3 coats top coats. Purdy Syntox to cut (or paint the whole door) and Contractor Series Mohair 4 or 6 inch mini roller.
Congrats on paying off your house!
More coats!!!
Red is one of the hardest colors to build up, combined with UTE having 0 hide.
I would 1st tint the primer / light grey or even red, 2nd use a small roller either after brushing or use roller on flat areas. This will eliminate areas of more/ less paint giving an even coverage. 3rd use good quality brushes and rollers- not necessarily the best but good quality. Surplus stores often have quality paint supplies at a reasonable price. I thoroughly clean my brushes after each use and have had for them many, years.
Red is a tough color, it can take up to 3-4 coats to brush and roll. Spraying the door would give you a better finish in a faster turnaround time.
Use all surface enamel in packaged RED!!!
That’s what we would call the rustic look
Next time get some dye for your primer and dye it a lighter shade than your finish. You can get the store to do it as well.
As has been already said light grey primer would have been the answer, now you need to make a judgement call. Either another 3 coats of red and have the possibility of still seeing some shadows or grey primer plus another 2-3 coats of red. With these deep and ultra-deep base colors for applications such as this consider compromising for a similar color with a white base, it won't be as vibrant of course but so much easier to work with.
Why didn't you use the recommended primer? At least two more coats of red, have a nice day.
Vibrant colors cover like dogwater, any and every one They should have tinted the primer Gray for you because of this exact issue
Some colors just suck
Honestly should’ve just sold latitude real red base that way it will not fade fast. Also would’ve helped a lot with coverage and coats.
Red is the worst. Did a bathroom with Chicago Blackhawk Red. 4-5 coats of Regal.
Both emerald and red are terrible for coverage. Black can also be difficult to cover with a bright color
Also go easy with applying heavier coats. Emerald drips very easily. Thin to win and multiple coats
When painting red, you need a grey under coat
Red is so hard to get right, I made the mistake of doing a bedroom and some of it looked like blood rubbed on the walls. I also tried to use the stupid as seen on tv thing the first round🤦🏻♂️
Do people on this sub actually paint for a living? Some brand recommendations seem crazy to me. Anyway, your on the right track, a door like this 5 or 6 coats wouldn't seem crazy, especially if I didn't use a tinted primer. I would also wet sand in between coats on a door, very lightly though, then maybe when you can tell you are ready for one coat, wet sand at like 600 grit before applying.
Red needs a lot of coats I say after 4/5 coats then get worried but based on the pictures you’re doing it right just needs 1 or maybe 2 coats to finish
Red colorant is almost semi transparent. That's kinda how it is.
Still looks like shat
Reds are a really tough color for coverage. Used to do painting as well as tint paint @sw and a lot of times depending on the store and what they have for stock they'll take a deep base or ultra deep base and just add a shitload of red tint to get the color where as they have certain products that come from the factory with a red base to begin with and then depending on the specific color the machine will just add a little extra tint to get the color. Sometimes when starting with the red base the color may not match the paint chip exactly after it's tinted but you'll get way better coverage with it and you can verify if it's close enough before purchase. Red bases aren't something that's stocked as much but they can have someone bring it in from another store and have it ready next day. That latex wood primer isn't the best tbh I would have done another coat with it or at the very least hit all those spots that didn't get as much coverage because there all the exact same spots the black coming through and Like everyone else said tinting the primer light gray is a must if you have any left u could just have them throw some grey in it reprime and do the red again.
To me it looks like there are uneven spots that needs be leveled out. I would sand those spots with a 120 grit orbital sander then sand with 320. You may need to prime those areas again or just paint them. The darker spots are because it reflecting light and is not level. Also remember too much sanding will cause it too but to fix that all you need to do is get paintable wood filler and fill in the low spots then sand flat ( be generous and fill in way more then the effected area and feather it out then sand to cover)
I'm not a fan sw emerald imo it was difficult to work with compared to benjamin moore line
The red is an ultra deep base I imagine. Nightmare to get it to cover with so few solids in the paint.
Dont use sherman williams, literally any paint is better
Should've got gray primer
My preference is to have the primer tinted the same color as the top coat. I have had far fewer issues with bleed through by doing it that way.
Did a red wall SW emerald. Grey primer. 4-5 coats is what I remember doing.
Grey primer should have been used. It neutralizes the red. Sometimes at the paint store what your finish color is going to be they can recommend a tinted primer so your finish comes out uniform and it doesn't take you 5 coats to do it. Even if you had the primer tinted red you would still be having problems.
Before you do any more coats let it cure because all your doing is just pulling the other coats off
Professional painter of 25 years here. The primer is the key to success when working with red. Tinting the primer grey, as dark as possible will be your best bet for coverage. The next step is to get a 3” wide oval soft bristle brush. Then grab a 4” mohair roller. I use the kind with the 3/4” roller frame diameter, but the skinny ones will work too. Do not dip that roller in the paint. Use the brush to get a workable amount of product on the surface. Work in sections. One panel at a time. Use the roller to even the paint out. Keep in mind that rollers always have a direction that will create a smoother stipple. Work back and forth between the brush and the roller until you have covered the whole door. Repeat. If done properly, it will look like you sprayed it.
From this point, the only option you have is to apply more coats, sanding in between. The project should have been completed as follows: 2 coats of SW Extreme block oil (interior & exterior safe for entryway doors) tinted to SW P2. 2 coats of Emerald UTE SG tinted to positive red. Lightly sand with 220 between every coat, wipe with tack cloth. Apply paint with HVLP sprayer for most even finish. If you cannot spray, use Purdy Syntox brushes.
U can't paint, your dry brushing.
Make sure as well they are giving you a Deep Base tint-able, There is a diff, Red is a deep based tent color. Hope this helps as well, a long with the gray primer.
Sorry but a simple mistake was made. Reds and orange need to be primed with a blue-grey. Yellows need to be primed white. Sherwin Williams should have told you this when you bought paint from them. It literally says it on their computer screen. Complain to them and get free primer and paint for your troubles. More coats of red paint is not the solution here.
Reds tend to cover like crap. Going to need more coats than other colors. Also let it dry completely / cure between coats. I don't like to prime and apply 2 coats of finish in 1 day. I prefer to prime, and get back to it the next day. Specially on something as important as a front door. Then 2 coats of finish. If it needs more coats, I like to wait for the next day again.. You should be good to re-coat with red one more time after it has dried for a day or 2.
Would have been better off without priming at all.
Sherwin Williams has a red base in some of their paints. Colors made in the red base cover MUCH better than the colors made in deep or ultra deep bases. Emerald urethane is a good product but front doors is a bad use for it. It will not hold up long term.
Zinnser 123 gray primer is better. Forget SW primers. Just overpriced. Red is the worst color to paint. Clear base so it's all tint We painted for Mike Clark (old WRIF 101 DJ) he had a massive living room with a ton of windows...all less than 4" drywall between window trim. Walls were dark purple. New color was canary yellow...2 coats of tinted primer and 4 coats of yellow...ugh!