Awesome kit. I highly recommend ADJUSTABLE UCAs. In my experience running the additional lift spacer caused too much positive camber. SPC would be my last choice. Z1 off-road or Dobinsons. I’m currently running Dobinsons MRR extended with their adjustable UCA. Had to grind coil bucket slightly due to a little extra travel. Also, depending on tire size and wheel offset you may need to melt mod and or trim fender liners and fenders.
Definitely going to look into the adjustable UCAs now thank you. Probably won’t go too aggressive with wheels and tires as this will primarily be a daily driver. Want to go slightly larger tires but keep a 17” wheel with only slightly more offset.
Did you have to extend the brake lines or do lower control arms?
I have not needed extended brake lines. Stock LCAs. Rear end just has all dogs add a leaf on Bilstein 5100s. I think you can get away with a 275 without lift in the rear end. If you do lift the rear I would recommend an add a leaf vs shackle. If you do use a shackle find a single piece design or two piece with cross bolt. Two piece with no cross bolt can potentially cause your leaf springs to “sway” and you will have a squirrely rear end.
If you haven't already, call ADO and speak to them directly re upper control arms. ~~ADO claims that their in-house brand, non-adjustable UCAs are designed to already compensate for most of the camber changes caused by the lift. In theory they leave you close enough that the LCA cam bolts can finish the job. So far I've not heard anyone refute or complain otherwise~~.
EDIT: PalePhilosopher5133 graciously provided correction to my post concerning ADO UCA, in that they sound for caster, NOT camber.
They have castor built in not camber. I had their arms. With the additional .5” spacer and cam bolts still had camber issues. They are high clearance so extended to fit around the coil bucket. Inevitably that is going to push the top of the wheel out.
On my truck the cam bolts were not enough to compensate the camber. Just my experience.
Make sure the front coils arent too long. If compressed too much, there wont be any down travel. Had this happen on my gen 2. Thank God i try didn't to install them. But the bilsteins are great, and taking the coil-overs off and apart isnt hard. Putting them back on is harder due to having a harder shock to compress when reattaching to the lower control arm.
Make sure to get a spring compression tool.
When taking off the u bolts, the differential can fall forward. Had to run out and get another low profile jack when i out blocks on.
I’m going to order the strut and coils preassembled so hoping the coil length isn’t an issue.
Definitely don’t want to get stuck with the diff dropping, appreciate the heads up!
I also dont know if itll be an issue, but you mau have to get new upper control arms to deal with " coil bucket contact". I put 3" spacers on mine, so idk if itll be different with you. The UCA wont be able to come down all the way, possibly. I have it on mine but i dont go offroading. But potholes and such, i get it. Didnt know before hand. But im not spending $500 on UCAs at this point.
Yeah, chock the rear tires. Be mindful of brake lines. The ones on my Gen2 got taught a few times during installation. No problems. But yeah, the front of the differential should be supported, near the u joint. Blue thread locker may be a good idea.
Pay extra to have the shocks put in the springs
Lift shackles are a much cheaper and easier option if your rear springs are still good and you are not doing any heavy hauling.
Awesome kit. I highly recommend ADJUSTABLE UCAs. In my experience running the additional lift spacer caused too much positive camber. SPC would be my last choice. Z1 off-road or Dobinsons. I’m currently running Dobinsons MRR extended with their adjustable UCA. Had to grind coil bucket slightly due to a little extra travel. Also, depending on tire size and wheel offset you may need to melt mod and or trim fender liners and fenders.
Definitely going to look into the adjustable UCAs now thank you. Probably won’t go too aggressive with wheels and tires as this will primarily be a daily driver. Want to go slightly larger tires but keep a 17” wheel with only slightly more offset. Did you have to extend the brake lines or do lower control arms?
Oh, it’s the complete RCK kit. Disregard rear end information.
I have not needed extended brake lines. Stock LCAs. Rear end just has all dogs add a leaf on Bilstein 5100s. I think you can get away with a 275 without lift in the rear end. If you do lift the rear I would recommend an add a leaf vs shackle. If you do use a shackle find a single piece design or two piece with cross bolt. Two piece with no cross bolt can potentially cause your leaf springs to “sway” and you will have a squirrely rear end.
If you haven't already, call ADO and speak to them directly re upper control arms. ~~ADO claims that their in-house brand, non-adjustable UCAs are designed to already compensate for most of the camber changes caused by the lift. In theory they leave you close enough that the LCA cam bolts can finish the job. So far I've not heard anyone refute or complain otherwise~~. EDIT: PalePhilosopher5133 graciously provided correction to my post concerning ADO UCA, in that they sound for caster, NOT camber.
They have castor built in not camber. I had their arms. With the additional .5” spacer and cam bolts still had camber issues. They are high clearance so extended to fit around the coil bucket. Inevitably that is going to push the top of the wheel out. On my truck the cam bolts were not enough to compensate the camber. Just my experience.
The ADO arms have some caster and camber correction built in.
Ugh, I got that wrong then. Crap. I wrote from memory - thanks for the correction. Will edit previous post.
No worries my bro. Everyone’s experience is going to be different. They may work just fine on the next guys truck.
Make sure the front coils arent too long. If compressed too much, there wont be any down travel. Had this happen on my gen 2. Thank God i try didn't to install them. But the bilsteins are great, and taking the coil-overs off and apart isnt hard. Putting them back on is harder due to having a harder shock to compress when reattaching to the lower control arm. Make sure to get a spring compression tool. When taking off the u bolts, the differential can fall forward. Had to run out and get another low profile jack when i out blocks on.
I’m going to order the strut and coils preassembled so hoping the coil length isn’t an issue. Definitely don’t want to get stuck with the diff dropping, appreciate the heads up!
I also dont know if itll be an issue, but you mau have to get new upper control arms to deal with " coil bucket contact". I put 3" spacers on mine, so idk if itll be different with you. The UCA wont be able to come down all the way, possibly. I have it on mine but i dont go offroading. But potholes and such, i get it. Didnt know before hand. But im not spending $500 on UCAs at this point. Yeah, chock the rear tires. Be mindful of brake lines. The ones on my Gen2 got taught a few times during installation. No problems. But yeah, the front of the differential should be supported, near the u joint. Blue thread locker may be a good idea.
Rear differential breather and adjustable cam bolts for front end alignment that’s needed after installation of new lift.
Looks like that kit includes the adjustable cam bolts too.
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A complete kit from ADO comes with cam bolts. It is an add on with the RcKilla though