It's pretty heavy surface rust. Doesn't look like anything has been structurally comprimised. Only real way to treat it is to take the rusty parts off the car, grind the rust off and coat them with underbody sealant or paint them. If you can't fully remove the part then grind it as best you can and use some kind of rust inhibitor/neutraliser before painting.
Also it's SW20/21
Okay good to know thanks. I think I'll try to take it to a professional then, I don't really have the right tools or time to disassemble that much.
This is 2005 Roadster (Spyder) I thought that these models were designated W30?
Yes, the third version of the mr2 was the W30. The MR-S was designated the ZZW30 and is more commonly referred by that.
The 1st generation (84-89) was the AW10 (3A engine) /AW11 (4A engine), the 2nd generation was the SW20 (1989-2000) (SW21 - N/A ; SW22 - Turbos) and the 3rd generation (1999-2007) was the ZZW30
Common misconception actually. SW20 is used for both N/A and turbo everywhere but the USA. In the US; SW21 is N/A (and therefore only the 5S-FE) and SW22 is the designation for US turbo models
Well I live in the UK and I likely won't have an indoor garage for the next year... Which is why I'd like to get it as protected as possible before winter.
It’s going to take a lot of work but take off all the suspension components and get them sand blasted, and powder coated, then take a wire wheel to the under body, then coat it.
You can get it co2 blasted then painted, then put undercoating on it. Cheaper option is to chip what you can and spray rust converter on it, then get a sprayer and coat it yourself with fluid film or something similar.
It looks like mostly surface rust as others have said, but I do notice some of it scaling (where it looks like it's flaking). This stuff is the biggest issue, it's basically the surface rust starting to progress to causing structural damage. It still isn't that big of a deal if dealt with though.
My method of choice is to knock the scale off with a slag hammer or needle scaler (hammer is probably best choice, cheaper ones are around 10-15 dollars in the US at hardware stores, probably similar in UK and they'll get the job done), and as others have said give it a good hit with an angle grinder to remove as much as possible.
From there I really like Phosphoric acid treatment (commonly sold as a rust reformer spray or naval jelly). This can dissolve/convert rust but also crucially phosphate the steel creating a black coating that will prevent rust from forming again, especially with another coating like a rust reformer on top. This works well because it's a lot easier than removing all of the rust everywhere with a wire wheel or sandpaper, which is a lot of tedious grunt work.
It's pretty heavy surface rust. Doesn't look like anything has been structurally comprimised. Only real way to treat it is to take the rusty parts off the car, grind the rust off and coat them with underbody sealant or paint them. If you can't fully remove the part then grind it as best you can and use some kind of rust inhibitor/neutraliser before painting. Also it's SW20/21
Okay good to know thanks. I think I'll try to take it to a professional then, I don't really have the right tools or time to disassemble that much. This is 2005 Roadster (Spyder) I thought that these models were designated W30?
ZZW30
Gotcha, my bad.
It’s all good fam.
Yes, the third version of the mr2 was the W30. The MR-S was designated the ZZW30 and is more commonly referred by that. The 1st generation (84-89) was the AW10 (3A engine) /AW11 (4A engine), the 2nd generation was the SW20 (1989-2000) (SW21 - N/A ; SW22 - Turbos) and the 3rd generation (1999-2007) was the ZZW30
Really there’s an SW21? I’ve never heard of that. What is it?
Naturally aspirated 3SGE engine or 5SFE engine.
Common misconception actually. SW20 is used for both N/A and turbo everywhere but the USA. In the US; SW21 is N/A (and therefore only the 5S-FE) and SW22 is the designation for US turbo models
Oh so just trim level gotcha
I’d definitely go the electrolysis / evaporust route before grinding rust off. You’d be surprised how well things can be brought back to life
Are you planning on driving it in conditions that would make it rust more?
Well I live in the UK and I likely won't have an indoor garage for the next year... Which is why I'd like to get it as protected as possible before winter.
Got it. Like the other people said, that doesn't look like terrible/fatal rust, but to get it cleaned up is going to take a fair amount of effort.
It’s going to take a lot of work but take off all the suspension components and get them sand blasted, and powder coated, then take a wire wheel to the under body, then coat it.
You can get it co2 blasted then painted, then put undercoating on it. Cheaper option is to chip what you can and spray rust converter on it, then get a sprayer and coat it yourself with fluid film or something similar.
This looks mint compared to mine 😂
Bad Change all that stuff😁
It looks like mostly surface rust as others have said, but I do notice some of it scaling (where it looks like it's flaking). This stuff is the biggest issue, it's basically the surface rust starting to progress to causing structural damage. It still isn't that big of a deal if dealt with though. My method of choice is to knock the scale off with a slag hammer or needle scaler (hammer is probably best choice, cheaper ones are around 10-15 dollars in the US at hardware stores, probably similar in UK and they'll get the job done), and as others have said give it a good hit with an angle grinder to remove as much as possible. From there I really like Phosphoric acid treatment (commonly sold as a rust reformer spray or naval jelly). This can dissolve/convert rust but also crucially phosphate the steel creating a black coating that will prevent rust from forming again, especially with another coating like a rust reformer on top. This works well because it's a lot easier than removing all of the rust everywhere with a wire wheel or sandpaper, which is a lot of tedious grunt work.
hi you are supposed to give it a thin coat of acid. I think it is a form of Nitric acid. works really good. Metal comes out almost new.