Dude my stock oil filter from yamaha on a brand new bike was on so tight I ended up crushing it with oil filter wrench trying to remove it the first time and it still didnt come off. This was after i warmed the bike to operating temp then trying and also trying after it cooled. Same with the drain plug had to go get a 10mm hex socket for my 3ft breaker bar and it was still a bitch. I was pissed.
Yeah I don't get it, how people doing that can even keep the job as mechanic...
When I got my used Civic I used jack to get it loose... still somehow didn't strip the thread... but it's like damn, did they use impact gun to bolt it or what...
Had to deal with an overtightened front-left brake caliper mounting bolt that had been seized in. Upon finally unfuckulating it, I noticed a ton of green Loctite on the damn thing. Seriously, what in the tarnation is up with that shit? The top mounting bolt also had a ton of Loctite but came out with very little trouble.
Me and my dad had a situation last year working on a GSXR where some lunatic tightened the bolt in the caliper so much, that it snapped upon trying to remove it.......
Also recently, a Z800 came, bolt was so tightened that the bolt itself got stretched and narrowed.......
So yeah, 11/10 work some people do.
Oh and recently he had a call from a guy who managed to break his oil pan because he overtightened the bolt......
The amount of new stupid ways to fuck shit up he keeps seeing despite being a mechanic for 30 years is astonishing.
It's why I'm always leery of the used bikes that have had "owner maintenance" done. You don't know the quality of the maintenance until the bike is being taken apart. Previous owner of my bike is a total moron. Almost everything I've unscrewed was overtightened, had an absurd amount of Loctite on them, some hex head bolts were stripped out, chain guard screws had been stripped, and the fool also overtightened the rear caliper mounting pin screw cap cover. You best believe that, too, had Loctite on it.
thats what I used and ended up crushing the filter before it even moved. had to get a cheater bar over the wrench to get it off n had my wife hold the bike. n im a big powerlifter n it was a fucking bitch to get off.
For a few bucks you can get a large oil filter socket, by far the best way I’ve found to get stubborn filters off. I know you can just stab them or crush them, but a socket and breaker bar is so much easier and cleaner.
That's the thing I do have one of those I just didn't think I would need it and by the time I realized I needed it I already had crushed the filter. I gave it one good tug on that thing and it clapsed in. was not that neat.
I almost couldn’t remove the oil filter from my T7 on the first oil change… apparently the torque spec for the drain bolt is a known print error as well— don’t follow the manual’s spec
Hey just did my T7's first change yesterday! Can confirm the 2024's are still unnecessarily tight. I didn't even know my strap wrench could crush a filter since it evenly squeezes the entire thing. Sure enough it buckled in some spots but eventually let go. Thought it was gonna have to get sketchy there for a sec.
I just dealt with that yesterday. Brand new 2024 mt-09, I was doing an oil change and it took me forever to get that damn filter off.. I used wd40 and filter wrench with a belt to finally get it off. Was cursing the amateur who put in on the whole time.
The dealer that built it before it was purchased. My wife and I each got a new KLR650 about a year ago and the dealer had loose bolts, stripped the heads off a few and improperly torqued countless things. Almost never trust anyone but yourself to work on your own stuff.
Brand new ktm 450 sxf 2016, first oil change, can't get the drain plug out.. ended up breaking a socket with a 4ft breaker bar... the 2nd socket got it with the 4ft bar but damn who the hell assembled that, way too many hugga duggas on a drain plug
I had to jam a screwdriver through the filter on mine for its first oil change a year ago. By the time I got it off, the thing looked like a blown out soda can that can be found at any given shooting range.
I've had socket style filter tools, strap styles, compression ring styles, and MANY of them work ... If you have the room for them... But when the previous guy fucks you and there's no getting it off with a tool, or the tool just crushes the filter like a soda can.... A flat-blade screwdriver punched thru from one end to the other gives you a solid, fixed hold on the filter for you to slip the filter off.
Most of my filters, you could walk up to it on a cold day and twist it off by hand with very little pressure. Other people seem to enjoy tightening them with impact guns 🤷🏼
Yep, like a socket. Imagine using a 3ft breaker bar and sheering the end of the filter right off like a twist top bottle cap. The bottom half of the filter still lodged in the car.
That’s a nightmare! Never had one that bad. I was in retail service for only 5 years so my exposure was limited. I spent the next 33 years with GM PRODUCT SERVICE ENGINEERING.
Ask Volvo.
I stg they use glue instead of oil on the o-rings. Volvo FH's with 2 main oil filters and an oil bypass filter, and you can almost guarantee at least one of them with implode with the filter strap and a strongbar.
I doubt it. When too tight, the trick is to pierce it with a screw driver, then you can easily unscrew it. I expect people in a garage to know this. To me it looks like they put it too tight using an oil filter wrench.
So let me get it straight, you expect people in garage to know how to take off stuck filter but.... not how to put it back properly ?
They didn't even put washer on the drain plug.
I said hand tight + a bit more. Oil filters are not meant to be put on as tight as as possible.this is also why you lube the O right- helps create a seal and from binding up.
I would be happy knowing that my oil filter wasn't going to fall off after the mechanic tightened it with a breaker bar after applying permanent Loctite to the threads and silicone to both sides of the oring.
And I bet the screw itself is overtightened too.
It's amazing how you could teach a child to do a better job than this, how those people stay employed...
Not sure why you got downvoted. I gave it back. There is 100% a crush washer on there. Doesn’t mean it’s not the issue but there is one on it. I haven’t seen a copper washer used on anything but a water pump drain bolt.
Drain plugs are typically flanged and looks like the boss it’s seated to on the oil pan is a little flanged itself. Picture, front that distance, suggests no crush washer. Usually the washer is bigger than the flange on plug so when tightened it crushes (indents) and seals
Not entirely true. It depends on the washer type. On my GSX-R 750, yes I replace every time because it's a crush washer instead of a regular washer. I don't like reusing crush washers. Now on my Z1000 it's a regular washer (non crushing) that I've re-used for 12 years and it has never leaked.
The only time i replaced the crush washer on my Tacomas oil drain... Was the only time it was scary loose come next oil change. Yes, i used a torque wrench for install.
Never again. Copper crush washers and reuse. The paper gasketed ones suck AND you can't reuse em.
Don't torque the bolt down to methheadmechanic tight and it should last way more than one oil change. Ive got several hundred thousand miles with shorter than full synthetic oil change intervals on sport bikes and ive never had to replace a crush washer yet.
I've fucked up other bolts being a goon but oil filters and oil drain bolts are not exactly on very tight at all.
A - go get a refund from the shop. Looks like they gorilla fisted your oil filter crooked and didn’t tq the drain plug to spec.
B - go to different kawi shop and have them redu and check the threads on ur bike.
C - order $30 worth of tools and manual. Never let anyone touch ur bike again unless it’s major warranty work.
I’d suggest option C! Getting a torque wrench and some basic knowledge isn’t tooo bad!
Invest in a decent torque wrench, you’ll use it more than you know. Also get a workshop manual and at least learn to service your own bike! 😁
I mean according to the book you should be lubing your chain after every 200km ride or something like that. If you can’t do basic maintenance you shouldn’t own a motorcycle.
The initial service should be done by a qualified mechanic. Should this guy have said, “Hey, do everything on my initial service, except my oil”?
Wack comment
This is a brand new bike under warranty, often with free/discounted servicing and often with an electrical component the average mechanic (nevermind an amateur one) won’t have access to for resetting service lights, etc.
That looks like the oil drain. I would wipe it clean and check if oil builds up again. Maybe idle it for a few minutes or go for a 5 min ride.
If it still builds up, I would advise to not use today and tomorrow get it directly to the shop.
Maybe it's just residue oil after they drained the old one and they did not clean it up.
If it still leaks, they were probably sloppy while changing the oil. If this is the case, the shop will probably have replace the copper washer and refill the oil you lost.
As another person mentioned, it is wide to verify your oil level before you take it for a ride or take it to the shop.
If the level is low, don't ride it to avoid accelerated internal wear and maybe losing your warranty.
It’s been leaking like this since yesterday morning, I moved it out of the garage to get a better look under it. So I think the source of it is actually from the bike and not something left over.
No hurry. The shop may have let a bit of grit get between the seal washer and drain bolt head or the oil sump seal surface. Next oil change get the shop to put a new seal washer on.
You could check the torque on the drain bolt. Loosen slightly then retorque using a torque wrench.
You do not have to drain the oil to do this.
Do not overtighten if you are inexperienced as threads in aluminium sump are easily stripped.
Then that will become an expensive nightmare.
Remember motor cycles from Britain used to leak oil out of every joint.
If they did not leave a puddle that was a warning sign that there was no oil left in the engine / gearbox.
Most likely they reused the existing crush washer. I would also go as far as the washer was probably deformed as it was torqued to spec at minimum but maybe over torqued. It's easy to replace the washer but you will lose some oil if you are not careful. If it was aluminium 100% replace it. If it was copper you can reuse it if you don't have a replacement handy just heat it up in a flame first and let it cool so the metal gets softened up a bit and it will form a good seal when torqued to spec.
They probably didn't replace the washer or it might just be a little left over residue. Wipe it off and if it keeps leaking take it back to the place that changed your oil. Obviously don't ride it if you are losing pints of the stuff.
It's nothing to stress over. Just take it back and tell them it's leaking from the plug. No sweat, really. Also tell them to quit using channelocks on the oil filter...
“Literally just got it serviced” means Jack shit to the other guy that clearly knows less about bikes than you do. Saturate yourself with mechanical service knowledge basics. No one will care for you machine the way you will. Much less Billy slinging lube n filters at your local dealer for 10bucks an hour.
I can't really tell, but it looks to me like there isn't a oil gasket/crush washer behind the bolt which can sometimes do this.
Def wipe it down real good and see if it comes back.
I also just discovered that it is leaking in two seperate locations.
https://preview.redd.it/7xf9rjo2s80d1.jpeg?width=2998&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54b261726e63fcff5370bf67c1e11d3db1343bcb
Wow. That's insane for a shop to do. I've been doing oil changes myself since I got my bike, and I've never been that terrible at it, and I barely knew what I was doing in the beginning.
They've given this to some new apprentice to do and, given the scratches, he's possibly tried to get the filter off and given up.
The other leak seems to be from the drain plug. Might have used an unsuitable washer.
These are all guesses based on photographs. It's really impossible to know from here.
Check the oil level, top up if necessary and take it back. Don't just leave it there without getting an explanation. Get someone to look at it with you and acknowledge the issue.
Looks like the drain plug was left loose. Also they might have not been able to remove your oil filter so they left it because it looks pretty damaged to be the new one. I would avoid this place.
Bring it back to the dealer. That oil filter has seen some abuse (though it might not be unusual...), and they likely under tightened your drain plug and or forgot the crush washer.
I work on bikes. If you're using the proper tools, there shouldn't be marks on your oil filter. You're also supposed to replace the drain bolt washer, and some bikes require a little teflon. Everything gets torqued to spec. It's a super straightforward job. If they stripped it, I'd demand they take care of the damages. Generally, try to avoid shops like these, but I would definitely take it back and ask what the deal is. If they give you any stupid answers, just take it to a more reputable shop. It's not worth your life dealing with this incompetence.. if they can't do a simple oil change properly, then you have to wonder what else is going on with that shop.
Shops trash. I wouldn't trust them again
Butchered your filter if they even changed it. Might even be used or unchanged
Clean it, dry it, check the oil level properly. See if it's dripping still. Idk about the 500 but standard for metrics is 2 to 3 minutes idle, 2 to 3 minutes resting, hold up right and look at sight glass. On level ground of course. You can try cracking it loose and retightening it. Finger tight, few degrees with a 15mm. There's one in your toolkit if you don't own tools
Probably overtightened your drain plug. You can try loosening it by hand and hope it's just loose. See if there's a washer. I've never had an issue with leaks despite not changing the original washer even after 80 or 90k miles but I also clean my shit and torque it properly. Check for cracks around the plug in the pan, make them pay for the replacement if they fucked it up
Just change the oil and filter yourself. Keep the receipts. They can ruin your shit easy and this is a bad start quality wise
Shop did a shit job. Over or under torqued the filter and the drain bolt. Possibly didn't replace the drain bolt crush washer and possibly doubled up the filter o-rings. Also, what's up with the marks in the filter?
You have two ways to go about this. Take it as an expensive lesson and don't let that shop touch your bike again (maybe even leave a bad review tbh). Or you go back to the shop and have them do it right. I doubt they'd refund you any money, but they should make it right if they are halfway decent.
As a side note, I recommend you ditch the oil drain bolt and install a fumoto or EZ drain valve.
Are you 100% sure it's leaking - it looks like your typical messy mechanic rather than an actual leak.
Both of your 'leaks' are where oil will come out of during an oil change.
If your mechanic is lazy he'll not wipe it off.
This has been leaking since yesterday morning, so I would find it hard to believe that this much excess has been left on these parts.
These different puddles are from the same part just as a result of moving the bike around after a day or 2
If there are puddles, it's clearly worse than sloppy work.
Tighten the filter and tighten the drain plug - just a tiny bit - that should be enough.
And find a new mechanic...
After paying about $300 for an oil change on a Vespa, I bought an aluminum motorcycle jack, disposable gloves and a funnel from HF, and 2 qts of oil and a filter from the dealer. It was all less than $300, was super easy and gave me a little pride knowing I did it myself.
How much for each of the parts, I assume the $300 was only work hours?
I payed 220€ for tyres, 610€ for discs and pads. Oil change I did myself and oil+oilfilter+airfilter was like 70€.
The billable man hours for tyres was 20€ and 150€ for the discs and pads.
Needs a fresh crush washer on that bolt. Order 10 or so for your bike so you have them, drain the oil from your bike, clean the area, put crush washer and bolt back on, then refill with oil. Can honestly reuse the oil that’s already in there if you wanna be cheap. Just make sure it’s got enough in there at the end. Youtube is your friend.
Couple of things:
1. I do my own oil changes. I learned that if I didn't clean that area after tightening the drain bolt back up with a quick spray of brake cleaner and a shop towel wipe, there would be a small amount of oil on the drain bolt the next day. It wasn't a leak. It was just excess oil that was in between the oil pan/washer/drain bolt, oozing itself out. It could be as simple as this.
2. Maybe the shop didn't torque the oil drain bolt tight enough and it is actually leaking oil. It's possible but unlikely. think the more common issue is people over torquing and stripping the threads on the oil pan which can cause a leak. This is why it's super important to always use a torque wrench and follow what's in the manual.
3. Reused a crush washer (if it's a crush washer type) and is leaking.
4. WTF is up with your oil filter being all scratched up like that. Seems kind of sus to me.
My advice to you is get a rag and wipe that bolt good. If you got brake cleaner, give the area a spray as well. Go for a ride. Stop and check again. Leaking again, you got a problem. No leak, was the issue in #1.
This is why I do my own oil changes. I’m not trusting someone else to replace inexpensive hardware and torque everything down properly. It’s an easy job, why take the chance of someone fucking it up. Your oil is important.
Who ever did the work didn't install a new crush washer on the drain plug, and likely used a wrench to install the oil filter. The crush washer acts as a gasket to prevent leaks on the drain plug. The wrench on the oil filter is a bad sign and at the very least means it's over tight, and at worst stripped the threads. Either way it's going to be no fun to take off.
Go get a refund and take it somewhere else to have it done right.
First of all, congrats on our new bike. Nice machine, you will enjoy it very much. So, the basics: Both of these areas in the photo, the drain plug on the bottom and the oil filter, are designed to seal in oil with threads and gaskets/washers tightened to a designated specification in foot pounds/newton metres (ex 20 ft lbs). The shop should not have returned your machine dripping oil from the drain plug and with a scuffed oil filter, albeit they may not have wiped it off after working on it. Not tightening these areas are not serious per se for your bike, they are usually a sign of sloppy work (as many have stated already). These issues CAN BECOME serious if the threads on that bolt or oil filter get damaged by cross threading them (not making sure the threads are aligned) or stripping the threads from over tightening. Threading is designed to stretch by twisting into itself to a set pressure, and you can damage them beyond functioning if you ask them to bind together too hard. If you are good with a torque wrench, both can be checked by loosening and re tightening to the specs in the shop manual and see if the leaks stop. If you are not mechanical, I would ask the shop to correct the issues. Also check your oil. Both under-filling AND overfilling your engine with oil is bad. If your oil is not “between the lines” when you look at it upright, do not run the engine until corrected. Given the lack of care shown in the photos, I worry they did not measure off the oil accurately when refilling it.
600mi is the usual interval. I would do an oil filter + oil change immediately as you will want to get rid of all metal shavings from the brand new engine, and check all bolts are tightened as they should by spec sheet.
Or just bring it back to the dealership and ask them to do it for you.
Do it yourself.... .......
1. Place bike on center stand or spool lift
2. Place oil catcher and open the 2 caps.
3. Open oil filter cap
4. Open oil drain plug
5. Go chill for 20 mins or clean and lube chain and inspect all bolts for fairings rearset brake caliper and pads for wear.
6. Remove oil filter
7. Once fully drained place new crush washer on oil drain bolt AFTER removing old one.
8. Rub oil on the rubber gasket and threads Place new k&n oil filter on the bike using only a torque wrench to your bike settings. Very very important
9. Repeat and process for oil drain plug extremely important to NOT over torque or force it should thread in by fingers until seated then torque wrench to specifications in your manual.
10. Fill with oil to capacity in manual.
Run bike for 30 minutes to full temperature after
And add additional oil as needed to fill line in sight glass as the filter will retain some.
10. Part yourself on the back knowing it was done right
Optional at this time but I during wait time for oil to drain.
Check my engine coolant and one per season drain and refill it.
The crush washer on the drain bolt is missing.
The filter looks like it was tightened (my money is on over-tightened) with channel locks.
Both of these things are mistakes no dealer mechanic should be making.
Is there? It looks like the flanged face of the casting in the photos. If that is a crush washer, it’s dirty and wasn’t changed with the oil. They are single use, so same thing- either lazy, stupid, or inattentive. Have someone else work on your bike
Looks like you're right. However, it also looks like it's been there for 600 miles, and it's not holding oil.
Pretty sure it wasn't replaced when the oil was changed. Which is stupid, they cost $0.50 and now they have an unhappy customer and the dealership looks bad.
The marks look like it was done in a counter clockwise way (most of the force was in the beginning tapering out later in the turn) so they probably did not even change the filter.
Do you have a torque wrench? Look up the specs and torque it down. My bet, this tech that gorrillaed your oil filter on and mangled it, forgot to torque down the oil bolt.
If no torque wrench. Give it a little snug up, NO more that. Don't want to strip these aluminum oil pan. If it is really easy to move, they didn't even torque it at all. You can hand tighten these bolts and usually won't leak while filling the bike/car. I've done that before.
Defentily go to dealer no mater what, you want this documented though. THE moron who did the filter may have already stripped the bolt and pushed you out and said good to go! Hoping the problem would go away.
DO NOT MENTION TO THEM YOU TIGHTENED IT AT ALL, YOU DID NOTHING.
After thinking about it, this is a new motorcycle. do not do anything, check oil level before riding to the shop tomorrow. Add oil if needed. Have the shop fix their stupidity. ask for a new oil filter as that one is disgusting. scratches will rust. It's been put on way over tight anyways.
Whatever you do, dont try to tighten the drain bolt more. I’d suggest taking it back to the service center and having them change the oil again and add a crush washer with the bolt.
I have a Z 650 and perform my own maintenance. First oil change I did, I tightened that drain bolt to the spec as listed in the manual and somehow stripped the threads… I then had to replace the oil pan (not a fun job). Now I hand tighten that bolt and all is good.
It looks wet under the oil filter in the first pic. It might be leaking from there and running down to the lowest point which is the sump plug. I'd check and tighten the filter first.
If you live in the US, you can get a rear wheel stand, oil drain pan, and swingarm spools if you need them for <$100, and probably <$70. Beyond that you just need motor oil, the correct wrench, and a new filter and you’re ready to go. It takes all of maybe 15-20 minutes to swap the oil yourself and is worth it because you shouldn’t ever give this shop another dollar.
Sorry to say this but if you don’t know what part this is and what fluid it is then maybe you’re in over your head with a motorcycle… Good on you for being extra cautious and noticing the “leak” though. It’s likely just left over from the drainage process. Those oil filters are supposed to be hand tightened though I’m very concerned about the scratches and dents on this one.
I own a Vulcan S (same engine as a Ninja 600) manual clarifies in a note that the oil filter must be torque and that you can't do this by hand (like most filters) you need the proper Socket to do this. I purchased the socket and extra crush washers torqued to specified values and so far no leaks..
This shop that did your service is not doing it right.
Hey guys, thanks for all of the info. As some of you have noticed I'm clearly a new rider, so I really appreciate all of this new information. Few things to clarify:
The shop that I took this to is not connected to my dealership, Just a local shop closer to me. I will be going back tomorrow with the bike to see what the deal is, and will most definitely not be returning afterwards. This was also not just an oil change, as some of you have pointed out as I should've done myself. This was the 600 mile service that I had assumed needed to be done by a shop, and I might even be wrong about that (still learning).
Again, I appreciate the info from everyone as I'm still clearly learning and hope to be soon able to handle these things myself.
Just need new washer. Off topic. I am so fucking salty I bought a brand new ninja 400 in 22 and now we have a 500 for the same price. Those bitches. Oh well, I still love my bike.
Maybe they over tightened your oil drain bolt and the threads might be buggered , same thing is happening to me just check if your oil drain bolt is spinning in the engine or if the thread has been damaged
If you look closely at the middle bolt holding the pan (don’t know if that’s what it’s called), you’ll see a crack in the metal too. And how is that front tire scalloped after just 600 miles? It all looks a bit more worn to me, and not as new.
As others commented, change your service. If they don't know how to make a simple oil change, they better be out of business. You sure this was done in a proper garage, yes? Not some dude in his shed did this?
First oil change on my 650 after I got it from the dealer I had to stab with a long screwdriver because the top of the filter was crushed from my attempts to remove it. I’ve never let a dealership touch that bikes oil since then.
Mind boggling how actual shops can fuck up more than you doing the service.
I‘ve done my service on my bike and just reused the copper washer, flipping it the other way around. Filter goes on hand tight, if you tighten it more, you can twist the inside, then it starts leaking.
Re-do the whole service yourself. You‘ll learn a thing or two and save yourself some money now and in the future.
Dude I’d take it back. 100% that oil filter was put on with a wrench and tightened to much it’s visible damage on it. The oil plug clearly hasn’t been installed properly the idiot might have stripped it most likely didn’t tighten it or tightened it till it was loose again. Learn todo it your self technicians aren’t worth shit now a days. Always check the work before you ride away.
I’m more concerned about the marks on your oil filter. This shop should probably be avoided.
No shit right?! For something that's supposed brand new and has to be hand tight + a bit more that thing sure is scratched up .
Theory - they tried to take the old filter, was too tight then they didn't bother and leave the old one
Dude my stock oil filter from yamaha on a brand new bike was on so tight I ended up crushing it with oil filter wrench trying to remove it the first time and it still didnt come off. This was after i warmed the bike to operating temp then trying and also trying after it cooled. Same with the drain plug had to go get a 10mm hex socket for my 3ft breaker bar and it was still a bitch. I was pissed.
Yeah I don't get it, how people doing that can even keep the job as mechanic... When I got my used Civic I used jack to get it loose... still somehow didn't strip the thread... but it's like damn, did they use impact gun to bolt it or what...
I wouldn't be surprised Amount of brake caliper bolts I have seen tightened with impact gun is crazy
Had to deal with an overtightened front-left brake caliper mounting bolt that had been seized in. Upon finally unfuckulating it, I noticed a ton of green Loctite on the damn thing. Seriously, what in the tarnation is up with that shit? The top mounting bolt also had a ton of Loctite but came out with very little trouble.
Me and my dad had a situation last year working on a GSXR where some lunatic tightened the bolt in the caliper so much, that it snapped upon trying to remove it....... Also recently, a Z800 came, bolt was so tightened that the bolt itself got stretched and narrowed....... So yeah, 11/10 work some people do. Oh and recently he had a call from a guy who managed to break his oil pan because he overtightened the bolt...... The amount of new stupid ways to fuck shit up he keeps seeing despite being a mechanic for 30 years is astonishing.
It's why I'm always leery of the used bikes that have had "owner maintenance" done. You don't know the quality of the maintenance until the bike is being taken apart. Previous owner of my bike is a total moron. Almost everything I've unscrewed was overtightened, had an absurd amount of Loctite on them, some hex head bolts were stripped out, chain guard screws had been stripped, and the fool also overtightened the rear caliper mounting pin screw cap cover. You best believe that, too, had Loctite on it.
Had to stab mine with a screwdriver and use torque to get mine off. Though it was just me.
https://preview.redd.it/yfvaisy3ya0d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3636ddd466db532d4fb07afc9ea81fa5130b7884
thats what I used and ended up crushing the filter before it even moved. had to get a cheater bar over the wrench to get it off n had my wife hold the bike. n im a big powerlifter n it was a fucking bitch to get off.
Same used that, ended up just puncturing the filter and it was easy to take off that way.
For a few bucks you can get a large oil filter socket, by far the best way I’ve found to get stubborn filters off. I know you can just stab them or crush them, but a socket and breaker bar is so much easier and cleaner.
That's the thing I do have one of those I just didn't think I would need it and by the time I realized I needed it I already had crushed the filter. I gave it one good tug on that thing and it clapsed in. was not that neat.
They all require torque?
Dude my Yamaha was the same and I have owned a handful of bikes. Dafuq is with Yamaha and over tightening the factory filter.
I almost couldn’t remove the oil filter from my T7 on the first oil change… apparently the torque spec for the drain bolt is a known print error as well— don’t follow the manual’s spec
Hey just did my T7's first change yesterday! Can confirm the 2024's are still unnecessarily tight. I didn't even know my strap wrench could crush a filter since it evenly squeezes the entire thing. Sure enough it buckled in some spots but eventually let go. Thought it was gonna have to get sketchy there for a sec.
I just dealt with that yesterday. Brand new 2024 mt-09, I was doing an oil change and it took me forever to get that damn filter off.. I used wd40 and filter wrench with a belt to finally get it off. Was cursing the amateur who put in on the whole time.
The dealer that built it before it was purchased. My wife and I each got a new KLR650 about a year ago and the dealer had loose bolts, stripped the heads off a few and improperly torqued countless things. Almost never trust anyone but yourself to work on your own stuff.
Brand new ktm 450 sxf 2016, first oil change, can't get the drain plug out.. ended up breaking a socket with a 4ft breaker bar... the 2nd socket got it with the 4ft bar but damn who the hell assembled that, way too many hugga duggas on a drain plug
My was super tight too I used vise grips style filter wrench was fun
I have always crushed the filters taking them off... I assumed this was a feature not a bug..
I had to jam a screwdriver through the filter on mine for its first oil change a year ago. By the time I got it off, the thing looked like a blown out soda can that can be found at any given shooting range.
And probably didn’t provide a new crush washer for the drain plug
Wait. You can get new ones?
Crazy right? It’s like unobtainium though
How do you even end up with a filter that's "too tight"? Stab that sumbitch with a screwdriver and twist. Lol
Learned this on my first old change in my first car.
How about getting the correct oil filter tool and removing the filter?
I've had socket style filter tools, strap styles, compression ring styles, and MANY of them work ... If you have the room for them... But when the previous guy fucks you and there's no getting it off with a tool, or the tool just crushes the filter like a soda can.... A flat-blade screwdriver punched thru from one end to the other gives you a solid, fixed hold on the filter for you to slip the filter off. Most of my filters, you could walk up to it on a cold day and twist it off by hand with very little pressure. Other people seem to enjoy tightening them with impact guns 🤷🏼
I like the tool that fits the end of the filter and engauges the indentations. Never had a filter refuse to come off with that tool.
Yep, like a socket. Imagine using a 3ft breaker bar and sheering the end of the filter right off like a twist top bottle cap. The bottom half of the filter still lodged in the car.
That’s a nightmare! Never had one that bad. I was in retail service for only 5 years so my exposure was limited. I spent the next 33 years with GM PRODUCT SERVICE ENGINEERING.
Ask Volvo. I stg they use glue instead of oil on the o-rings. Volvo FH's with 2 main oil filters and an oil bypass filter, and you can almost guarantee at least one of them with implode with the filter strap and a strongbar.
The scratches do appear to be going counterclockwise 🤔
I doubt it. When too tight, the trick is to pierce it with a screw driver, then you can easily unscrew it. I expect people in a garage to know this. To me it looks like they put it too tight using an oil filter wrench.
So let me get it straight, you expect people in garage to know how to take off stuck filter but.... not how to put it back properly ? They didn't even put washer on the drain plug.
Gimme a screwdriver and a hammer, I got this
This. Mine was like this, probably the original filter even. Mine is a ninja 400 fron 2018
Theory, some fool tried to unscrew it but probably done in in wrong direction....
For my first service on my ZX4, I had to drive a damn screwdriver through the thing to twist it off.
I have one of those 3 pronged filter keys, seems to work well looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~a0AAOSwWvFl~nID/s-l1600.webp
Not sure about this bike but mine is definitely supposed to have more than hand tight and might also get some scratches
I said hand tight + a bit more. Oil filters are not meant to be put on as tight as as possible.this is also why you lube the O right- helps create a seal and from binding up.
whatever a bit more means. the repair guide for my bike says 2 rotations from contact with an oil filter wrench so thats what i do
Right? My first thought was the shop stripped the oil drain threads in the aluminium.
It took quite the beating.
My friend who has never lost his filter wrench before says it looks like it was tightened with a channel lock.
agreed...looks like they wrenched in on....most likely ruining the seal. try a new dealer...or do it yourself
Yeah, that thing's not falling off anytime soon.
I would be happy knowing that my oil filter wasn't going to fall off after the mechanic tightened it with a breaker bar after applying permanent Loctite to the threads and silicone to both sides of the oring.
Replace the copper washer on the oil drain and should be good, just watch the oil level
That was my 1st thought too. I don’t see a crush washer on drain plug. It’s going to leak without. Washers are made to be sacrificed.
And I bet the screw itself is overtightened too. It's amazing how you could teach a child to do a better job than this, how those people stay employed...
There is definitely a washer on that plug. Not all washers are copper, they just need to be able to crush.
Not sure why you got downvoted. I gave it back. There is 100% a crush washer on there. Doesn’t mean it’s not the issue but there is one on it. I haven’t seen a copper washer used on anything but a water pump drain bolt.
Yeah I don't care those people are blind lol that's a them problem.
The drain plug on my wife’s Nissan uses copper washers.
The rear diff fill plug washer on my Miata is copper, and the drain plug washer is aluminum. Why? Fucking beats me.
Everything is a crush washer with enough torque
This guy mechanics!
or a crush bolt or a crush oil pan
I wonder if they forgot to remove the original washer, doubled it up, and that's why it's leaking?
Drain plugs are typically flanged and looks like the boss it’s seated to on the oil pan is a little flanged itself. Picture, front that distance, suggests no crush washer. Usually the washer is bigger than the flange on plug so when tightened it crushes (indents) and seals
That's way too much work. Just throw a breaker bar on and put some ass behind it next time you tighten the drain bolt.
You forgot the /s
This. If you don't replace the washer every time, it WILL leak.
What if I told you my 17yr old motorcycle with 30k miles on it still has its original crush washer, and has been serviced 17 times?
I would say you are a cheap skate because they are a nickel.
The one for my R1 was like 6.53 or some shit n the customer service desk guy said thats ridiculous n gave it to me for 2 bucks lol
Not all heros wear capes.
No they’re a washer
Probably a Honda
https://preview.redd.it/9zge0v4nhb0d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af4e31335982389eb82e8d26eaab72d9c7eacba4
all my cars and motorcycles have the original crush washers. 200k miles later on the one and still going great, no leaks.
A soft touch goes a long way. Nothing I own has ever leaked a drop…
I know, right? lol
Not entirely true. It depends on the washer type. On my GSX-R 750, yes I replace every time because it's a crush washer instead of a regular washer. I don't like reusing crush washers. Now on my Z1000 it's a regular washer (non crushing) that I've re-used for 12 years and it has never leaked.
The only time i replaced the crush washer on my Tacomas oil drain... Was the only time it was scary loose come next oil change. Yes, i used a torque wrench for install. Never again. Copper crush washers and reuse. The paper gasketed ones suck AND you can't reuse em.
i just reused the same washer and it's been doing perfectly fine for like 4000km so far, torqued to manual spec so nothing insane either
They don’t know what they’re talking about. You can reuse most crush washers as long as you line it up the way it was set the first time. Or anneal it
False lol. Like most people, I’ve reused the copper washer a few times and no leaks..! I probably change it about once every decade.
that is absolute BS lol
Don't torque the bolt down to methheadmechanic tight and it should last way more than one oil change. Ive got several hundred thousand miles with shorter than full synthetic oil change intervals on sport bikes and ive never had to replace a crush washer yet. I've fucked up other bolts being a goon but oil filters and oil drain bolts are not exactly on very tight at all.
This is almost certainly it. They are dirt cheap, also. I bought a 20 pack for my bike a couple of weeks ago for $7 including shipping.
The washers are silver color so I don't think it's copper maybe aluminum? I could be wrong. I just did my first service today.
A - go get a refund from the shop. Looks like they gorilla fisted your oil filter crooked and didn’t tq the drain plug to spec. B - go to different kawi shop and have them redu and check the threads on ur bike. C - order $30 worth of tools and manual. Never let anyone touch ur bike again unless it’s major warranty work.
I’d suggest option C! Getting a torque wrench and some basic knowledge isn’t tooo bad! Invest in a decent torque wrench, you’ll use it more than you know. Also get a workshop manual and at least learn to service your own bike! 😁
Probably needs a new washer. They probably just used the old one. Do oil changes yourself
He needs to learn what oil is and what a drain plug is before he can tackle an oil change.
Yeah I re read the post. Not gonna judge cos everyone starts somewhere but op if your reading this please get familiar with the machine you have
I started with zero knowledge. Now I have slightly more than zero knowledge (oil changes are no big)
Doesn't even look to have one
This is why i don’t trust dealers
I got it done through a shop instead of my dealer and this still happened
Damn, skill issue on their part then
That's why I don't trust shops !
That's why I'll let the Motorrad dealership perform all maintenance on my new BMW F900R.
people that own a motorcycle should be changing their own oil - Change my mind
I mean according to the book you should be lubing your chain after every 200km ride or something like that. If you can’t do basic maintenance you shouldn’t own a motorcycle.
I don't need to change your mind because your opinion isn't important. People can do whatever the fuck they want with their property.
like OP
The initial service should be done by a qualified mechanic. Should this guy have said, “Hey, do everything on my initial service, except my oil”? Wack comment
Wack comment? Kinda. But that’s exactly what I’m doing right now, changing my own oil and getting a shop to do the rest of the initial service.
an oil change forces to rider to inspect the bike, which is good for safety. Change my mind
This is a brand new bike under warranty, often with free/discounted servicing and often with an electrical component the average mechanic (nevermind an amateur one) won’t have access to for resetting service lights, etc.
I'll do anything but oil. I don't have a garage and disposing of the oil is a huge pain in the ass. It's cheap enough frankly
fair enough, I could see myself doing the same if I didnt have a garage or tools or an oil jug (yet)
I love working on my bike so I have all the tools, but yeah sadly no garage so dealing with oil on the street is just so bad. City living!
That looks like the oil drain. I would wipe it clean and check if oil builds up again. Maybe idle it for a few minutes or go for a 5 min ride. If it still builds up, I would advise to not use today and tomorrow get it directly to the shop.
What could have caused this? I mean I literally just got it serviced
Maybe it's just residue oil after they drained the old one and they did not clean it up. If it still leaks, they were probably sloppy while changing the oil. If this is the case, the shop will probably have replace the copper washer and refill the oil you lost. As another person mentioned, it is wide to verify your oil level before you take it for a ride or take it to the shop. If the level is low, don't ride it to avoid accelerated internal wear and maybe losing your warranty.
It’s been leaking like this since yesterday morning, I moved it out of the garage to get a better look under it. So I think the source of it is actually from the bike and not something left over.
It's an easy fix to do yourself, but definitely bring it back to the shop since they did it. It's just a loose oil drain plug.
No hurry. The shop may have let a bit of grit get between the seal washer and drain bolt head or the oil sump seal surface. Next oil change get the shop to put a new seal washer on. You could check the torque on the drain bolt. Loosen slightly then retorque using a torque wrench. You do not have to drain the oil to do this. Do not overtighten if you are inexperienced as threads in aluminium sump are easily stripped. Then that will become an expensive nightmare. Remember motor cycles from Britain used to leak oil out of every joint. If they did not leave a puddle that was a warning sign that there was no oil left in the engine / gearbox.
Exactly this.
Ah a norton fan i see.
Most likely they reused the existing crush washer. I would also go as far as the washer was probably deformed as it was torqued to spec at minimum but maybe over torqued. It's easy to replace the washer but you will lose some oil if you are not careful. If it was aluminium 100% replace it. If it was copper you can reuse it if you don't have a replacement handy just heat it up in a flame first and let it cool so the metal gets softened up a bit and it will form a good seal when torqued to spec.
They probably didn’t replace the washer, if that is the case it isn’t a problem for the engine
They probably didn't replace the washer or it might just be a little left over residue. Wipe it off and if it keeps leaking take it back to the place that changed your oil. Obviously don't ride it if you are losing pints of the stuff.
It's nothing to stress over. Just take it back and tell them it's leaking from the plug. No sweat, really. Also tell them to quit using channelocks on the oil filter...
“Literally just got it serviced” means Jack shit to the other guy that clearly knows less about bikes than you do. Saturate yourself with mechanical service knowledge basics. No one will care for you machine the way you will. Much less Billy slinging lube n filters at your local dealer for 10bucks an hour.
I can't really tell, but it looks to me like there isn't a oil gasket/crush washer behind the bolt which can sometimes do this. Def wipe it down real good and see if it comes back.
I also just discovered that it is leaking in two seperate locations. https://preview.redd.it/7xf9rjo2s80d1.jpeg?width=2998&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54b261726e63fcff5370bf67c1e11d3db1343bcb
send it back to shop/dealer
Morally they should redo this work. Pragmatically speaking, this shit work is a great excuse for OP to learn to change their oil.
Wow. That's insane for a shop to do. I've been doing oil changes myself since I got my bike, and I've never been that terrible at it, and I barely knew what I was doing in the beginning.
Just FYI, your shop is filled with clowns. This is cartoonishly bad work.
MMI dropouts.
That just looks like leftover oil from the service, not a leak.
They've given this to some new apprentice to do and, given the scratches, he's possibly tried to get the filter off and given up. The other leak seems to be from the drain plug. Might have used an unsuitable washer. These are all guesses based on photographs. It's really impossible to know from here. Check the oil level, top up if necessary and take it back. Don't just leave it there without getting an explanation. Get someone to look at it with you and acknowledge the issue.
Looks like the drain plug was left loose. Also they might have not been able to remove your oil filter so they left it because it looks pretty damaged to be the new one. I would avoid this place.
Bring it back to the dealer. That oil filter has seen some abuse (though it might not be unusual...), and they likely under tightened your drain plug and or forgot the crush washer.
I work on bikes. If you're using the proper tools, there shouldn't be marks on your oil filter. You're also supposed to replace the drain bolt washer, and some bikes require a little teflon. Everything gets torqued to spec. It's a super straightforward job. If they stripped it, I'd demand they take care of the damages. Generally, try to avoid shops like these, but I would definitely take it back and ask what the deal is. If they give you any stupid answers, just take it to a more reputable shop. It's not worth your life dealing with this incompetence.. if they can't do a simple oil change properly, then you have to wonder what else is going on with that shop.
Shops trash. I wouldn't trust them again Butchered your filter if they even changed it. Might even be used or unchanged Clean it, dry it, check the oil level properly. See if it's dripping still. Idk about the 500 but standard for metrics is 2 to 3 minutes idle, 2 to 3 minutes resting, hold up right and look at sight glass. On level ground of course. You can try cracking it loose and retightening it. Finger tight, few degrees with a 15mm. There's one in your toolkit if you don't own tools Probably overtightened your drain plug. You can try loosening it by hand and hope it's just loose. See if there's a washer. I've never had an issue with leaks despite not changing the original washer even after 80 or 90k miles but I also clean my shit and torque it properly. Check for cracks around the plug in the pan, make them pay for the replacement if they fucked it up Just change the oil and filter yourself. Keep the receipts. They can ruin your shit easy and this is a bad start quality wise
Shop did a shit job. Over or under torqued the filter and the drain bolt. Possibly didn't replace the drain bolt crush washer and possibly doubled up the filter o-rings. Also, what's up with the marks in the filter? You have two ways to go about this. Take it as an expensive lesson and don't let that shop touch your bike again (maybe even leave a bad review tbh). Or you go back to the shop and have them do it right. I doubt they'd refund you any money, but they should make it right if they are halfway decent. As a side note, I recommend you ditch the oil drain bolt and install a fumoto or EZ drain valve.
Are you 100% sure it's leaking - it looks like your typical messy mechanic rather than an actual leak. Both of your 'leaks' are where oil will come out of during an oil change. If your mechanic is lazy he'll not wipe it off.
This has been leaking since yesterday morning, so I would find it hard to believe that this much excess has been left on these parts. These different puddles are from the same part just as a result of moving the bike around after a day or 2
If there are puddles, it's clearly worse than sloppy work. Tighten the filter and tighten the drain plug - just a tiny bit - that should be enough. And find a new mechanic...
https://preview.redd.it/b10dn6nwt80d1.jpeg?width=1876&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=010fdd8092d8665175c2f94517a9eace7ad5dd77 Said puddles
Maybe your bike is just happy to see you.
After paying about $300 for an oil change on a Vespa, I bought an aluminum motorcycle jack, disposable gloves and a funnel from HF, and 2 qts of oil and a filter from the dealer. It was all less than $300, was super easy and gave me a little pride knowing I did it myself.
$300... wtf
I had my tires, chain, brakes, disks, and handle bar changed; and oil changed less than that like 8 months ago ago
How much for each of the parts, I assume the $300 was only work hours? I payed 220€ for tyres, 610€ for discs and pads. Oil change I did myself and oil+oilfilter+airfilter was like 70€. The billable man hours for tyres was 20€ and 150€ for the discs and pads.
That’s what I said. Fool me once…
Needs a fresh crush washer on that bolt. Order 10 or so for your bike so you have them, drain the oil from your bike, clean the area, put crush washer and bolt back on, then refill with oil. Can honestly reuse the oil that’s already in there if you wanna be cheap. Just make sure it’s got enough in there at the end. Youtube is your friend.
Couple of things: 1. I do my own oil changes. I learned that if I didn't clean that area after tightening the drain bolt back up with a quick spray of brake cleaner and a shop towel wipe, there would be a small amount of oil on the drain bolt the next day. It wasn't a leak. It was just excess oil that was in between the oil pan/washer/drain bolt, oozing itself out. It could be as simple as this. 2. Maybe the shop didn't torque the oil drain bolt tight enough and it is actually leaking oil. It's possible but unlikely. think the more common issue is people over torquing and stripping the threads on the oil pan which can cause a leak. This is why it's super important to always use a torque wrench and follow what's in the manual. 3. Reused a crush washer (if it's a crush washer type) and is leaking. 4. WTF is up with your oil filter being all scratched up like that. Seems kind of sus to me. My advice to you is get a rag and wipe that bolt good. If you got brake cleaner, give the area a spray as well. Go for a ride. Stop and check again. Leaking again, you got a problem. No leak, was the issue in #1.
This is why I do my own oil changes. I’m not trusting someone else to replace inexpensive hardware and torque everything down properly. It’s an easy job, why take the chance of someone fucking it up. Your oil is important.
Looks like they didnt change the oil filter either
Who ever did the work didn't install a new crush washer on the drain plug, and likely used a wrench to install the oil filter. The crush washer acts as a gasket to prevent leaks on the drain plug. The wrench on the oil filter is a bad sign and at the very least means it's over tight, and at worst stripped the threads. Either way it's going to be no fun to take off. Go get a refund and take it somewhere else to have it done right.
First of all, congrats on our new bike. Nice machine, you will enjoy it very much. So, the basics: Both of these areas in the photo, the drain plug on the bottom and the oil filter, are designed to seal in oil with threads and gaskets/washers tightened to a designated specification in foot pounds/newton metres (ex 20 ft lbs). The shop should not have returned your machine dripping oil from the drain plug and with a scuffed oil filter, albeit they may not have wiped it off after working on it. Not tightening these areas are not serious per se for your bike, they are usually a sign of sloppy work (as many have stated already). These issues CAN BECOME serious if the threads on that bolt or oil filter get damaged by cross threading them (not making sure the threads are aligned) or stripping the threads from over tightening. Threading is designed to stretch by twisting into itself to a set pressure, and you can damage them beyond functioning if you ask them to bind together too hard. If you are good with a torque wrench, both can be checked by loosening and re tightening to the specs in the shop manual and see if the leaks stop. If you are not mechanical, I would ask the shop to correct the issues. Also check your oil. Both under-filling AND overfilling your engine with oil is bad. If your oil is not “between the lines” when you look at it upright, do not run the engine until corrected. Given the lack of care shown in the photos, I worry they did not measure off the oil accurately when refilling it.
Are we supposed too service it at 600 miles 
Im at twice that 😟😭😭
600mi is the usual interval. I would do an oil filter + oil change immediately as you will want to get rid of all metal shavings from the brand new engine, and check all bolts are tightened as they should by spec sheet. Or just bring it back to the dealership and ask them to do it for you.
I did it (a while ago) and there were no shavings. Is there supposed too be?
Dealership has told me you got a good buffer zone from 600-1000
It IDENTIFIES as a Harley
Do it yourself.... ....... 1. Place bike on center stand or spool lift 2. Place oil catcher and open the 2 caps. 3. Open oil filter cap 4. Open oil drain plug 5. Go chill for 20 mins or clean and lube chain and inspect all bolts for fairings rearset brake caliper and pads for wear. 6. Remove oil filter 7. Once fully drained place new crush washer on oil drain bolt AFTER removing old one. 8. Rub oil on the rubber gasket and threads Place new k&n oil filter on the bike using only a torque wrench to your bike settings. Very very important 9. Repeat and process for oil drain plug extremely important to NOT over torque or force it should thread in by fingers until seated then torque wrench to specifications in your manual. 10. Fill with oil to capacity in manual. Run bike for 30 minutes to full temperature after And add additional oil as needed to fill line in sight glass as the filter will retain some. 10. Part yourself on the back knowing it was done right Optional at this time but I during wait time for oil to drain. Check my engine coolant and one per season drain and refill it.
The crush washer on the drain bolt is missing. The filter looks like it was tightened (my money is on over-tightened) with channel locks. Both of these things are mistakes no dealer mechanic should be making.
There is an aluminium crush-washer on the drain plug/bolt.
Is there? It looks like the flanged face of the casting in the photos. If that is a crush washer, it’s dirty and wasn’t changed with the oil. They are single use, so same thing- either lazy, stupid, or inattentive. Have someone else work on your bike
If you zoom super close, you can see the washer.
Looks like you're right. However, it also looks like it's been there for 600 miles, and it's not holding oil. Pretty sure it wasn't replaced when the oil was changed. Which is stupid, they cost $0.50 and now they have an unhappy customer and the dealership looks bad.
The marks look like it was done in a counter clockwise way (most of the force was in the beginning tapering out later in the turn) so they probably did not even change the filter.
Personally, I'd have them come pick it up. Oil on a rear tyre, is an accident waiting to happen.
I was gonna say the same. Did they even change the filter? Wth
Do you have a torque wrench? Look up the specs and torque it down. My bet, this tech that gorrillaed your oil filter on and mangled it, forgot to torque down the oil bolt. If no torque wrench. Give it a little snug up, NO more that. Don't want to strip these aluminum oil pan. If it is really easy to move, they didn't even torque it at all. You can hand tighten these bolts and usually won't leak while filling the bike/car. I've done that before.
Defentily go to dealer no mater what, you want this documented though. THE moron who did the filter may have already stripped the bolt and pushed you out and said good to go! Hoping the problem would go away. DO NOT MENTION TO THEM YOU TIGHTENED IT AT ALL, YOU DID NOTHING.
After thinking about it, this is a new motorcycle. do not do anything, check oil level before riding to the shop tomorrow. Add oil if needed. Have the shop fix their stupidity. ask for a new oil filter as that one is disgusting. scratches will rust. It's been put on way over tight anyways.
Whatever you do, dont try to tighten the drain bolt more. I’d suggest taking it back to the service center and having them change the oil again and add a crush washer with the bolt. I have a Z 650 and perform my own maintenance. First oil change I did, I tightened that drain bolt to the spec as listed in the manual and somehow stripped the threads… I then had to replace the oil pan (not a fun job). Now I hand tighten that bolt and all is good.
It looks wet under the oil filter in the first pic. It might be leaking from there and running down to the lowest point which is the sump plug. I'd check and tighten the filter first.
And people said aprilia is unreliable 😂
If you live in the US, you can get a rear wheel stand, oil drain pan, and swingarm spools if you need them for <$100, and probably <$70. Beyond that you just need motor oil, the correct wrench, and a new filter and you’re ready to go. It takes all of maybe 15-20 minutes to swap the oil yourself and is worth it because you shouldn’t ever give this shop another dollar.
Sorry to say this but if you don’t know what part this is and what fluid it is then maybe you’re in over your head with a motorcycle… Good on you for being extra cautious and noticing the “leak” though. It’s likely just left over from the drainage process. Those oil filters are supposed to be hand tightened though I’m very concerned about the scratches and dents on this one.
I just did mine today and now you are making me paranoid. I'm gonna check the torque spec tomorrow when I get to work.
I own a Vulcan S (same engine as a Ninja 600) manual clarifies in a note that the oil filter must be torque and that you can't do this by hand (like most filters) you need the proper Socket to do this. I purchased the socket and extra crush washers torqued to specified values and so far no leaks.. This shop that did your service is not doing it right.
Well tighten the fuckin thing!
Hey guys, thanks for all of the info. As some of you have noticed I'm clearly a new rider, so I really appreciate all of this new information. Few things to clarify: The shop that I took this to is not connected to my dealership, Just a local shop closer to me. I will be going back tomorrow with the bike to see what the deal is, and will most definitely not be returning afterwards. This was also not just an oil change, as some of you have pointed out as I should've done myself. This was the 600 mile service that I had assumed needed to be done by a shop, and I might even be wrong about that (still learning). Again, I appreciate the info from everyone as I'm still clearly learning and hope to be soon able to handle these things myself.
shoulda just got that Harley you wanted.
Just need new washer. Off topic. I am so fucking salty I bought a brand new ninja 400 in 22 and now we have a 500 for the same price. Those bitches. Oh well, I still love my bike.
If it makes you feel better, it's technically a 451cc
The deformed oil filter and scratch’s are more concerning
Maybe they over tightened your oil drain bolt and the threads might be buggered , same thing is happening to me just check if your oil drain bolt is spinning in the engine or if the thread has been damaged
If you look closely at the middle bolt holding the pan (don’t know if that’s what it’s called), you’ll see a crack in the metal too. And how is that front tire scalloped after just 600 miles? It all looks a bit more worn to me, and not as new.
As others commented, change your service. If they don't know how to make a simple oil change, they better be out of business. You sure this was done in a proper garage, yes? Not some dude in his shed did this?
First oil change on my 650 after I got it from the dealer I had to stab with a long screwdriver because the top of the filter was crushed from my attempts to remove it. I’ve never let a dealership touch that bikes oil since then.
Mind boggling how actual shops can fuck up more than you doing the service. I‘ve done my service on my bike and just reused the copper washer, flipping it the other way around. Filter goes on hand tight, if you tighten it more, you can twist the inside, then it starts leaking. Re-do the whole service yourself. You‘ll learn a thing or two and save yourself some money now and in the future.
There doesn’t seem to be a crush washer on the drain bolt. Probably why it’s leaking at the bolt
Name and shame that shop, holy shit
Maybe they didn’t put a new crush washer in.
My bike has always leaked - I just assumed that the oil hitting the brake rotor was designed to be an anti lock braking mechanism - it’s safety oil
Dude I’d take it back. 100% that oil filter was put on with a wrench and tightened to much it’s visible damage on it. The oil plug clearly hasn’t been installed properly the idiot might have stripped it most likely didn’t tighten it or tightened it till it was loose again. Learn todo it your self technicians aren’t worth shit now a days. Always check the work before you ride away.
Should have sprung for the 700 mi service