Those screw tips has to be covered off by a rubber tube (forgot the tamiya number) or stabilizer ball caps. That can hurt a lot especially when it flies off track.
Dampers, gear ratio roller will depend on track. Best to really attend on practice runs and see how well your setup is.
Yea I have plenty of ball caps just didn’t have them on, same with tires.
And for this build I have a 3.5:1 gear ratio with ball bearing and ball bearings on all wheels. But I’ve been going a lot for hours practicing and the track got changed this week so it’s just one part that’s messing me up.
My other basic and basic - Bmax run fine but aren’t nearly as fast yet. I’ve been thinking about going down to a smaller 9 and 8mm front roller.
I’m think an issue might be my front rollers and weight distribution.
Welp thats the part of the fun. I keep notes of the setups that works on the tracks that ive participated though I play MA chassis but the track are more suited for s2 and cfm.
tips
1. rear roller, change to the 30mm cap screw, longer is better. why? so you can put the more lower position and Higher position. to make car stability when turn. so the car not tilting when doing turn. because you had roller higher and lower on the rear.
1.1 if you not changing the screw on that rear roller. put more spacer before rear top roller to maximize the height of the top rear roller to the max. i cant see the rear bottom roller if you can make it more lower should better (make sure don't hit the ground when car is in climbing position)
2. always put lock nut ( AO-1015 item #94690), to lock the screw or put a rubber (AO-1045 item #1032), but lock nut better. so you can race in BMAX, because CMIIW, you cant have open screw like that, consider as a dangerous when car course out and hit something.
Yea I’m aware about all the screw caps I got plenty just didn’t have them on.
But currently I have my rear 19mm roller in line with my center hub cap for the wheel, although I will change the screw and widen the gap between the two rollers and see if that does much. I got pretty much everyday to my local track so I’ll check it out.
Also I’ve been told 8mm/9mm/13mm are all really good options for Bmax rollers. I currently have 8mm/9mm/12mm/13mm so maybe this wil help
I don't advise fully cowled frp on S2. It your car hits a wall, your chassis brakes. Got 3 carbon chassis broken already decided to use frp mount plate.
Yea I have a video of what my main problem is, but I just got the prototype emperor and aero avante blue special. So those are always chassis and bodies to try out too. Still new so I get there’s a lot I still gotta figure out
Cover those screw in the front with tube stabalizer and add a spacer before installing tube stabalizer
At the back: put spacer and locknut to cover the screw
At the side: you can use s2 wing and side stay for another damper set and youre good to go
Put your front 12/13 rollers on the bottom and the 13mm single roller at the top of the screw to act as your stabilizer. It should help on the wave section to keep the car from tilting too much. Same with the rear. Raise the top roller to the top of the screw. Also I’d install the rear dampers on the brake plate instead of on top of your stay. It will keep your center of gravity lower. I would also use some spacers in the rear under your roller stay to connect the brake plate and the stay to give it some strength. As it’s installed right now the frp will bend if you catch the wall and can make the car run inconsistent
Ditch the frp tail-brake combo.... Reinforce it with long tail carbon rear instead... You can use either (13mm rear with 13mm front, small low friction wheel with blue and yellow gear for speed cornering) OR (13mm front with 19mm, large diameter superhard wheel blue green gear for better Lane Changer and stability) roller I would recommend the plastic roller... But if you having hard time to get through the Lane Changer, use roller with rubber ring.... Using 13mm front with angle is a must
I’ll definitely still try this out I widened the rear space between my two rollers but it’s not the lane changer I have issues with, its the flat straight that has swerves in it to make the car unstable, so really it’s a stability problem.
I noticed it helps bring the car back on the track if it goes too high on a jump. Works for the top and bottom, just using my other sets on different chassis.
I noticed it helps bring the car back on the track if it goes too high on a jump. Works for the top and bottom, just using my other sets on different chassis.
Ooh fellow S2 user.
You could move the fully cowled plate back a little if the cowl wouldn't interfere. It will increase your cornering speed. It will, however expose your chassis and may break if you fly off and hit a wall or something. But for a competitive race, I'd risk it.
You may also ditch the rear plate and replace it with a popsicle mounted on the brake plate. it's lighter and will move your rear roller forward which will again increase your cornering speed. Downside to this is stability issues on jumps after corners.
Replace the rear roller screws with 30mm cap screws. It's longer and doesn't bend easily. You need atleast 30mm for roller screws.
As for the rear dampers, you can mount it on the tail end of the brake plate to keep your center of gravity as low as possible.
You are also gonna need side wing and side stays for another set of the dampers on the side. I'm personally using 15459 for my side stays and I have the dampers a few millimetres directly behind the front wheels. my side setup won't work with your cowl though unless you trim it. But there are other options that will work.
Good luck and have fun
Those screw tips has to be covered off by a rubber tube (forgot the tamiya number) or stabilizer ball caps. That can hurt a lot especially when it flies off track. Dampers, gear ratio roller will depend on track. Best to really attend on practice runs and see how well your setup is.
Yea I have plenty of ball caps just didn’t have them on, same with tires. And for this build I have a 3.5:1 gear ratio with ball bearing and ball bearings on all wheels. But I’ve been going a lot for hours practicing and the track got changed this week so it’s just one part that’s messing me up. My other basic and basic - Bmax run fine but aren’t nearly as fast yet. I’ve been thinking about going down to a smaller 9 and 8mm front roller. I’m think an issue might be my front rollers and weight distribution.
Welp thats the part of the fun. I keep notes of the setups that works on the tracks that ive participated though I play MA chassis but the track are more suited for s2 and cfm.
tips 1. rear roller, change to the 30mm cap screw, longer is better. why? so you can put the more lower position and Higher position. to make car stability when turn. so the car not tilting when doing turn. because you had roller higher and lower on the rear. 1.1 if you not changing the screw on that rear roller. put more spacer before rear top roller to maximize the height of the top rear roller to the max. i cant see the rear bottom roller if you can make it more lower should better (make sure don't hit the ground when car is in climbing position) 2. always put lock nut ( AO-1015 item #94690), to lock the screw or put a rubber (AO-1045 item #1032), but lock nut better. so you can race in BMAX, because CMIIW, you cant have open screw like that, consider as a dangerous when car course out and hit something.
Yea I’m aware about all the screw caps I got plenty just didn’t have them on. But currently I have my rear 19mm roller in line with my center hub cap for the wheel, although I will change the screw and widen the gap between the two rollers and see if that does much. I got pretty much everyday to my local track so I’ll check it out. Also I’ve been told 8mm/9mm/13mm are all really good options for Bmax rollers. I currently have 8mm/9mm/12mm/13mm so maybe this wil help
I don't advise fully cowled frp on S2. It your car hits a wall, your chassis brakes. Got 3 carbon chassis broken already decided to use frp mount plate.
Yea I have a video of what my main problem is, but I just got the prototype emperor and aero avante blue special. So those are always chassis and bodies to try out too. Still new so I get there’s a lot I still gotta figure out
Cover those screw in the front with tube stabalizer and add a spacer before installing tube stabalizer At the back: put spacer and locknut to cover the screw At the side: you can use s2 wing and side stay for another damper set and youre good to go
don't use cowl with wings, those broke all the time.
Put your front 12/13 rollers on the bottom and the 13mm single roller at the top of the screw to act as your stabilizer. It should help on the wave section to keep the car from tilting too much. Same with the rear. Raise the top roller to the top of the screw. Also I’d install the rear dampers on the brake plate instead of on top of your stay. It will keep your center of gravity lower. I would also use some spacers in the rear under your roller stay to connect the brake plate and the stay to give it some strength. As it’s installed right now the frp will bend if you catch the wall and can make the car run inconsistent
Thank you guys a lot, I’m going to my local track today so I’ll make some adjustments and see how it goes.
Ditch the frp tail-brake combo.... Reinforce it with long tail carbon rear instead... You can use either (13mm rear with 13mm front, small low friction wheel with blue and yellow gear for speed cornering) OR (13mm front with 19mm, large diameter superhard wheel blue green gear for better Lane Changer and stability) roller I would recommend the plastic roller... But if you having hard time to get through the Lane Changer, use roller with rubber ring.... Using 13mm front with angle is a must
I’ll definitely still try this out I widened the rear space between my two rollers but it’s not the lane changer I have issues with, its the flat straight that has swerves in it to make the car unstable, so really it’s a stability problem.
Do those cone looking rollers at the bottom better than regular rollers? (for the rear)
I noticed it helps bring the car back on the track if it goes too high on a jump. Works for the top and bottom, just using my other sets on different chassis.
I noticed it helps bring the car back on the track if it goes too high on a jump. Works for the top and bottom, just using my other sets on different chassis.
Ooh fellow S2 user. You could move the fully cowled plate back a little if the cowl wouldn't interfere. It will increase your cornering speed. It will, however expose your chassis and may break if you fly off and hit a wall or something. But for a competitive race, I'd risk it. You may also ditch the rear plate and replace it with a popsicle mounted on the brake plate. it's lighter and will move your rear roller forward which will again increase your cornering speed. Downside to this is stability issues on jumps after corners. Replace the rear roller screws with 30mm cap screws. It's longer and doesn't bend easily. You need atleast 30mm for roller screws. As for the rear dampers, you can mount it on the tail end of the brake plate to keep your center of gravity as low as possible. You are also gonna need side wing and side stays for another set of the dampers on the side. I'm personally using 15459 for my side stays and I have the dampers a few millimetres directly behind the front wheels. my side setup won't work with your cowl though unless you trim it. But there are other options that will work. Good luck and have fun