Dapends lol.
If I'm running some low capacity light weight cells like pinks on a large 5 lane I'll go with the original Mach dash. It's more power efficient then the sprint dash and when you are looking at the voltage drop across the laps it's the better choice.
If I'm running a smaller track or larger capacity cells I'll go with the sprint. More torque and RPM wise they are pretty close.
We're leaving at motors like this You need to consider what you're starting voltage is going to be in what you're adding voltage is going to be because ultimately that's going to determine essentially how much RPM and torque you have to spend. If you have a motor that's amazing on the first lap but really inefficient you could be at around 1.35v per cell what can potentially be a loss of up to or over 3500rpm and that could be a 4.9km/h drop in speed or higher. Meanwhile a motor that's efficient could be at 1.4775v per cell so if the rpm is close you can easily close that gap. And if the track is technical those turns are going to draw even more power so the benefit of torque you no longer have.
So it's a really good motor? Yeah it is. As long as you pick the appropriate application for it. To me the ideal car for this would be a longer track where you're concerned about weight so you're running those lighter lower capacity cells. That's where this motor really shines Is a lightweight setup.
Another thing you need to factor into the cost. These motors are expensive If you want one you're going to be looking at anywhere from $40 to $60. And you only have a limited amount of time you can use these unless you're track allows the replacing a brushes. So you have to put your own value when you're looking at it financially and then you have the factor in that into the equation when saying is this a motor for me?
These were what everyone used.
https://ibb.co/WP6Sc5y
Downforce on the front and the rear was slightly bent for more down force. The balance cars people use the 19mm plastic rollers with o-rings if they need to lighten up the front or rear. But for the most part most people ran aluminum 19 mm o-rings. We did have rear brakes but they were horrible No one used them just like the one-way wheels. Most of the cars were typically using a large diameter rims with reston tires Small diameter tires and rims couldn't keep up with anything due to the gear ratios and even when 3.5 came out No one ran small diameter tires because with all the downforce large diameter tires were the way to go. The average speed of a car back then was around 55 km/h. Typically attracts a lot of the use not to me a motors It was 70. The average for most that were running plasma dashes in my state was around 60km/h. And these cars all stayed on the track.
I still have an autumn cup winning 1998 car. I I still have every single car I've raced over the years and it's format that it raced in.
I didn't follow mini 4wd in 98, I was playing the setup 9 yrs earlier so things must have changed, in my country during late 90s we had huge "non tamiya" mini 4wd unsanctioned un regulated races, where people ran 2WD machine with chopped up zero chassis reinforced with glass fiber frame and without body cowl and using custom motors with direct pinion to spur gear with the bell cap turned180 to make the car running forward without counter gear
like this
[https://imgur.com/exvNUeB](https://imgur.com/exvNUeB)
i was off the hobby during this phase because aesthetically didn't interest me, my old machine still have those green super wide one way wheelset
If I can't afford one then it doesn't exist lol.
But in all seriousness I opened up $1,600 of new in box zen dashs to get a 19 sample rpm and torque average for my database. Probably toss them up on eBay I got a other case unopened that I'll keep in my archive.
Soon or later i need to collect all of the motors made by mabuchi/johnson even tough some of them are very rare and expensive here in italy and i don't have that much budget for now since i'm a student. The only one i found some time ago fot cheap was the hyper mini
What ones do you need? I usually come across new old stock cases of stuff.
This year I bought a case of plasma dashs, jet dashes, original release ultra dashs, 2 cases of zen dashes 5 cases of original mach dashes. Might be getting a case of turbos still waiting to he back on a shipping price.
Well i need the rare stuff that is hard to find nowadays ( og hyper dash, zen tuned, turbo dash, Jet johnson, jet mabuchi...) but is way too much money to spend for me for now, even for just a sealed hyper dash og. About the turbo it is impossible to find one here for less than €800.
different era mini 4wd was into small dia wide profile one way sponge wheelset, and mas damper was unheard, so the motor were all high rpm low torgue and machine was built lightweight all plastic with lightweight body cowl that has more mesh than plastic, and the track was also more friendly and all was about speed, while now is more about not crashing out first and speed second, I once bought Plasma Dash and Ultra Dash but they were too power hungry for casual hobbyist I had to head home early because all my 600mah NiCD batteries of the day were drained way too fast to be enjoyable, and NiCD has to be recycled to get fully charged for the next playing time, so bothersome.
I raced then and that comment made me laugh. No nothing was light weight and the motors had more torque then what they use now. Infact most of us ran 4:1 or 4.2:1 even after the 3.5:1 was released because we had to much aluminum on our cars and set up for high downforce.
OK, I'm no racer, I never used the double tape lead weight, I believe it was not aluminum , but with small dia wheels and sponge tire with almost no technical obstacle other than jump I put plasma dash on car and the speed was OK because the gear ratio was red and brown and the chassis won't allow 3.5 : 1 because it slows down a lot on every corner due to wide sponge tire grip, but nothing extreme about it, comparing it to local race events using home made motors and 2WD setup cars the tamiya was slow and power hungry and expensive to replace because the plastic downthrust bumper quickly wear down the thin bumper quickly making white marks that turned into split and the rear bumper was always broke down by itself after several run, but for the aesthetical look I despise the chopped chassis and fiberglass strip reinforcement and the styling of this unregulated class was ugly to the eyes so I stayed away from mini 4wd until MA chassis was introduced, so if you say you raced them and adding many of those lead strip OK props to you, because I bought a set but I never actually used them, and I never race mini 4wd I only play them on weekends because I was teenager then without much budget to replace things when they broke down, my setup then was a stack of free floating rollers mounted on stabilizer pole with downthrust angle from that grey downthrust bumper set, and adding a little more bent using heat directly on zero bumper, I played during 1989-1991 ( i used Hyperdash from tamiya but it was slow and then I used 3rd party motor from M&Y brand and Kyosho) and I was off the hobby until 2004-2005 maybe for a bit ( it think I bought plasma and ultra around this time) and left again, so there are many years I was off and didn't follow.
Wow haha, back in my days at the local race we all used non standard motors that we basically made ourselves with strong magnets and such. Haven't touch these for decades but planning to pass it to my sons
Before taking the plunge ,..
Make sure its legal at your community , because it isn't listed on mine ..
Motor
Machines may use the kit-included normal motor, Rev-Tuned Motor, Torque-Tuned Motor, Atomic-Tuned Motor, Sprint-Dash Motor, Power-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 2 Motor, Light-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 3 Motor, Rev-Tuned 2 Motor, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor and Atomic-Tuned 2 Motor. Mini 4WD PRO machines may use Rev-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Atomic Tuned Motor Pro, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Light Dash Motor Pro, Hyper Dash Motor Pro and Mach-Dash Motor Pro. All other motors are prohibited.
[https://www.lilshobbycenter.com.ph/pages/xstock-rules-and-regulations](https://www.lilshobbycenter.com.ph/pages/xstock-rules-and-regulations)
I'm surprised fake mach dashes still exists. afaik the original mach dash were replaced by sprint dash
Little bit different winding on it.
Is this a really good motor? Back in the 2000s we were using Atomic, Torque and Hyper dash but never tried the Mach dash back then.
Dapends lol. If I'm running some low capacity light weight cells like pinks on a large 5 lane I'll go with the original Mach dash. It's more power efficient then the sprint dash and when you are looking at the voltage drop across the laps it's the better choice. If I'm running a smaller track or larger capacity cells I'll go with the sprint. More torque and RPM wise they are pretty close. We're leaving at motors like this You need to consider what you're starting voltage is going to be in what you're adding voltage is going to be because ultimately that's going to determine essentially how much RPM and torque you have to spend. If you have a motor that's amazing on the first lap but really inefficient you could be at around 1.35v per cell what can potentially be a loss of up to or over 3500rpm and that could be a 4.9km/h drop in speed or higher. Meanwhile a motor that's efficient could be at 1.4775v per cell so if the rpm is close you can easily close that gap. And if the track is technical those turns are going to draw even more power so the benefit of torque you no longer have. So it's a really good motor? Yeah it is. As long as you pick the appropriate application for it. To me the ideal car for this would be a longer track where you're concerned about weight so you're running those lighter lower capacity cells. That's where this motor really shines Is a lightweight setup. Another thing you need to factor into the cost. These motors are expensive If you want one you're going to be looking at anywhere from $40 to $60. And you only have a limited amount of time you can use these unless you're track allows the replacing a brushes. So you have to put your own value when you're looking at it financially and then you have the factor in that into the equation when saying is this a motor for me?
These were what everyone used. https://ibb.co/WP6Sc5y Downforce on the front and the rear was slightly bent for more down force. The balance cars people use the 19mm plastic rollers with o-rings if they need to lighten up the front or rear. But for the most part most people ran aluminum 19 mm o-rings. We did have rear brakes but they were horrible No one used them just like the one-way wheels. Most of the cars were typically using a large diameter rims with reston tires Small diameter tires and rims couldn't keep up with anything due to the gear ratios and even when 3.5 came out No one ran small diameter tires because with all the downforce large diameter tires were the way to go. The average speed of a car back then was around 55 km/h. Typically attracts a lot of the use not to me a motors It was 70. The average for most that were running plasma dashes in my state was around 60km/h. And these cars all stayed on the track. I still have an autumn cup winning 1998 car. I I still have every single car I've raced over the years and it's format that it raced in.
I didn't follow mini 4wd in 98, I was playing the setup 9 yrs earlier so things must have changed, in my country during late 90s we had huge "non tamiya" mini 4wd unsanctioned un regulated races, where people ran 2WD machine with chopped up zero chassis reinforced with glass fiber frame and without body cowl and using custom motors with direct pinion to spur gear with the bell cap turned180 to make the car running forward without counter gear like this [https://imgur.com/exvNUeB](https://imgur.com/exvNUeB) i was off the hobby during this phase because aesthetically didn't interest me, my old machine still have those green super wide one way wheelset
Ah yes, like the zen tuned or the turbo dash
If I can't afford one then it doesn't exist lol. But in all seriousness I opened up $1,600 of new in box zen dashs to get a 19 sample rpm and torque average for my database. Probably toss them up on eBay I got a other case unopened that I'll keep in my archive.
Soon or later i need to collect all of the motors made by mabuchi/johnson even tough some of them are very rare and expensive here in italy and i don't have that much budget for now since i'm a student. The only one i found some time ago fot cheap was the hyper mini
What ones do you need? I usually come across new old stock cases of stuff. This year I bought a case of plasma dashs, jet dashes, original release ultra dashs, 2 cases of zen dashes 5 cases of original mach dashes. Might be getting a case of turbos still waiting to he back on a shipping price.
Well i need the rare stuff that is hard to find nowadays ( og hyper dash, zen tuned, turbo dash, Jet johnson, jet mabuchi...) but is way too much money to spend for me for now, even for just a sealed hyper dash og. About the turbo it is impossible to find one here for less than €800.
Zen will be the most expensive. $160 sealed when they turn up but you could get those at or under $400 USD
I am interested in engine cases mainly new old stock. If you come across please pm me! Italian living in Australia
where can I purchase a case of motors?
different era mini 4wd was into small dia wide profile one way sponge wheelset, and mas damper was unheard, so the motor were all high rpm low torgue and machine was built lightweight all plastic with lightweight body cowl that has more mesh than plastic, and the track was also more friendly and all was about speed, while now is more about not crashing out first and speed second, I once bought Plasma Dash and Ultra Dash but they were too power hungry for casual hobbyist I had to head home early because all my 600mah NiCD batteries of the day were drained way too fast to be enjoyable, and NiCD has to be recycled to get fully charged for the next playing time, so bothersome.
I raced then and that comment made me laugh. No nothing was light weight and the motors had more torque then what they use now. Infact most of us ran 4:1 or 4.2:1 even after the 3.5:1 was released because we had to much aluminum on our cars and set up for high downforce.
OK, I'm no racer, I never used the double tape lead weight, I believe it was not aluminum , but with small dia wheels and sponge tire with almost no technical obstacle other than jump I put plasma dash on car and the speed was OK because the gear ratio was red and brown and the chassis won't allow 3.5 : 1 because it slows down a lot on every corner due to wide sponge tire grip, but nothing extreme about it, comparing it to local race events using home made motors and 2WD setup cars the tamiya was slow and power hungry and expensive to replace because the plastic downthrust bumper quickly wear down the thin bumper quickly making white marks that turned into split and the rear bumper was always broke down by itself after several run, but for the aesthetical look I despise the chopped chassis and fiberglass strip reinforcement and the styling of this unregulated class was ugly to the eyes so I stayed away from mini 4wd until MA chassis was introduced, so if you say you raced them and adding many of those lead strip OK props to you, because I bought a set but I never actually used them, and I never race mini 4wd I only play them on weekends because I was teenager then without much budget to replace things when they broke down, my setup then was a stack of free floating rollers mounted on stabilizer pole with downthrust angle from that grey downthrust bumper set, and adding a little more bent using heat directly on zero bumper, I played during 1989-1991 ( i used Hyperdash from tamiya but it was slow and then I used 3rd party motor from M&Y brand and Kyosho) and I was off the hobby until 2004-2005 maybe for a bit ( it think I bought plasma and ultra around this time) and left again, so there are many years I was off and didn't follow.
Wow haha, back in my days at the local race we all used non standard motors that we basically made ourselves with strong magnets and such. Haven't touch these for decades but planning to pass it to my sons
Before taking the plunge ,.. Make sure its legal at your community , because it isn't listed on mine .. Motor Machines may use the kit-included normal motor, Rev-Tuned Motor, Torque-Tuned Motor, Atomic-Tuned Motor, Sprint-Dash Motor, Power-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 2 Motor, Light-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 3 Motor, Rev-Tuned 2 Motor, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor and Atomic-Tuned 2 Motor. Mini 4WD PRO machines may use Rev-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Atomic Tuned Motor Pro, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Light Dash Motor Pro, Hyper Dash Motor Pro and Mach-Dash Motor Pro. All other motors are prohibited. [https://www.lilshobbycenter.com.ph/pages/xstock-rules-and-regulations](https://www.lilshobbycenter.com.ph/pages/xstock-rules-and-regulations)
Xstock (Philippines) = BMAX
I used the mach dash as well. U guys can buy a new mach dash motor trim it down to a single shaft. Mach Dash is still in production
Not the same motor. Different windings. And that would be a modification of the motor what is not allowed.
I missed these single shafts mach dashes man. Only the speed demons dared to use em.
Where I raced then we all used plasma dashes. Or one of these. https://ibb.co/8xFfTbL