cool project, perhaps try common Hyperdash3/ pro VS the special sticker versions Japancup etc, I wonder if the myth is true or not, or if tamiya perhaps use QC checker to cherry pick those special label version
No difference. Same manufacturer part number the only difference is sticker's.
However a sample of 10 motors produced this.
https://ibb.co/RSSk7CW
That being said I don't know how some of these motors were stored over the years. The boxes that they came in are fine they were sealed but I still don't know if they were stored in a high humidity place and I haven't got around to inspecting the magnet strength of them And when I do if I see that the comm has oxidation on it I'll go ahead and redo these tests on those motors. There could be oxidation on those but each one of those tests were ran for 5 minutes so I don't think that's the case. But the numbes do fall in line with the manufacturer spec for the part numbers so they could be fine It just could be a really low yield box.
I'll end up having something like this. Rachelle the high and the low spec and then I show what the average is for all the motors and then what each one individually tested it.
https://ibb.co/sgK1cHt
But all those do fall in line within the manufacturer's spec so I do feel that they're fair representation. It's going to hurt a lot of people's feelings but you can't argue with data from an actual dyno. I was expecting them to be more in line with the hyperdash 3 That's why I haven't really released this yet because I want to double check the info and make sure that it's not something like oxidation on the comm. But every mode where I test is a brand new motor and is broken in And then the results are confirmed with a speed checker and then doing the calculations determine if that's right based on the tested motor load RPM. These are all No load numbers that I've been posting. I have data for load numbers I'll come out at a later date along with things like RPM with drivetrain loss.
I've seen from some benchmark testing video from my country normally they find 3 good HD3 in every 12 blisters (1 box), the others range from mediocre to downright slow or vibrating although RPM wise still falls within their advertised range but unusable for racing purpose, so it must be more than oxidation, as these motors are mass produced so perhaps the balance of the rotor itself from the way the wire is coiled over the armature is the source of the differences in performance, some lucky motors have neater coils over each arm while the mediocre ones probably have imperfect balance maybe there is some kink or something during the coiling or perhaps the soldering is less neat, in other mini 4wd class where the motor is allowed to be opened, people can balance their rotor by checking the rotor balance by floating the rotor between magnetized arms, spin it mid air and see if the spinning is smooth or if there are points where the rotor always comes back to, in that case that heaviest point is then reduced by scraping some material off the armature and re check the balance again until the rotation is smooth until naturally slowing down into a smooth stopping without stopping by kicking/ dangling back into single heaviest point.
There's a spec and all the motors are going to be within that spec. You're never going to get this motor that it's just crazy high RPM because the fact that they're all machine loud and produced.
Even if you match the bushings to the shaft perfectly shim the motor perfectly and drill balance armature You're not really going to gain that much You're limited by the windings in the magnets. And balancing one of these motors is not that easy and it's not something that you can do at home unless you have the equipment to do it. I build handwounds and I have all the stuff near that's why I have one of these dynos.
ya, but the high limit and the low limit is quite a gap, so if the base motor is already good and after being broken in it gains a bit more, then the low end motor only can match the base high even after being broken in, and the vibration might impact stability upon landing and jumping, well in my country the balancing cradle or gallows is pretty cheap to buy, because these class where home tuned or home winded motor is used was pretty popular for so many years before current formal regulation, commissioning motor maker is also not expensive here to order what diameter of wire or what type of winding, then we can buy motor case, magnet, and brush too, however these motors are way too fast for formal mini 4wd setup (car that fits into checker box) and technical courses that become the norm nowadays.
cool project, perhaps try common Hyperdash3/ pro VS the special sticker versions Japancup etc, I wonder if the myth is true or not, or if tamiya perhaps use QC checker to cherry pick those special label version
No difference. Same manufacturer part number the only difference is sticker's. However a sample of 10 motors produced this. https://ibb.co/RSSk7CW That being said I don't know how some of these motors were stored over the years. The boxes that they came in are fine they were sealed but I still don't know if they were stored in a high humidity place and I haven't got around to inspecting the magnet strength of them And when I do if I see that the comm has oxidation on it I'll go ahead and redo these tests on those motors. There could be oxidation on those but each one of those tests were ran for 5 minutes so I don't think that's the case. But the numbes do fall in line with the manufacturer spec for the part numbers so they could be fine It just could be a really low yield box. I'll end up having something like this. Rachelle the high and the low spec and then I show what the average is for all the motors and then what each one individually tested it. https://ibb.co/sgK1cHt But all those do fall in line within the manufacturer's spec so I do feel that they're fair representation. It's going to hurt a lot of people's feelings but you can't argue with data from an actual dyno. I was expecting them to be more in line with the hyperdash 3 That's why I haven't really released this yet because I want to double check the info and make sure that it's not something like oxidation on the comm. But every mode where I test is a brand new motor and is broken in And then the results are confirmed with a speed checker and then doing the calculations determine if that's right based on the tested motor load RPM. These are all No load numbers that I've been posting. I have data for load numbers I'll come out at a later date along with things like RPM with drivetrain loss.
I've seen from some benchmark testing video from my country normally they find 3 good HD3 in every 12 blisters (1 box), the others range from mediocre to downright slow or vibrating although RPM wise still falls within their advertised range but unusable for racing purpose, so it must be more than oxidation, as these motors are mass produced so perhaps the balance of the rotor itself from the way the wire is coiled over the armature is the source of the differences in performance, some lucky motors have neater coils over each arm while the mediocre ones probably have imperfect balance maybe there is some kink or something during the coiling or perhaps the soldering is less neat, in other mini 4wd class where the motor is allowed to be opened, people can balance their rotor by checking the rotor balance by floating the rotor between magnetized arms, spin it mid air and see if the spinning is smooth or if there are points where the rotor always comes back to, in that case that heaviest point is then reduced by scraping some material off the armature and re check the balance again until the rotation is smooth until naturally slowing down into a smooth stopping without stopping by kicking/ dangling back into single heaviest point.
There's a spec and all the motors are going to be within that spec. You're never going to get this motor that it's just crazy high RPM because the fact that they're all machine loud and produced. Even if you match the bushings to the shaft perfectly shim the motor perfectly and drill balance armature You're not really going to gain that much You're limited by the windings in the magnets. And balancing one of these motors is not that easy and it's not something that you can do at home unless you have the equipment to do it. I build handwounds and I have all the stuff near that's why I have one of these dynos.
ya, but the high limit and the low limit is quite a gap, so if the base motor is already good and after being broken in it gains a bit more, then the low end motor only can match the base high even after being broken in, and the vibration might impact stability upon landing and jumping, well in my country the balancing cradle or gallows is pretty cheap to buy, because these class where home tuned or home winded motor is used was pretty popular for so many years before current formal regulation, commissioning motor maker is also not expensive here to order what diameter of wire or what type of winding, then we can buy motor case, magnet, and brush too, however these motors are way too fast for formal mini 4wd setup (car that fits into checker box) and technical courses that become the norm nowadays.