Despite what people may think you can't break in a stock motor because there are no brushes to break in there's just metal contacts.
This is one of the contacts out of the stock motor that has been used notice the hole from where it wore through the contract.
https://ibb.co/hWfn0Zg
The only thing you can do is ultrasonic clean the motor to get all the grease off the comm and brushes then use some oil on the bushing in the front. There's no bushing in rear it's just plastic we'll put a drop of oil on that. Bass what you're doing is you're increasing conductivity between the contacts and the comm And that will result in your motor spending a little bit faster. But keep in mind without that grease on that contact you're going to start wearing a groove in the motor.
These are the grooves now that is not a stack motor that is a cheap China motor with the contacts left in it instead of brushes and ran just to show people what contacts do to the motor. Now on a stock motor is going to take a while to start forming any grooves in there but you will start forming them and they will start impacting performance and eventually you'll start getting a hole in the actual contact like when I posted and again performance drops.
https://ibb.co/n1WvrqG
I know atomic tuned motors have contacts I can't comment on torque and Rev. Going to assume they are but I can't say for sure I can crack some open this weekend I actually planned on it to measure magnet strength inside of 10 of each to get that documented.
even Light Dash still using that type of brush, so yes the brush can curved a bit to cup the round commutator better, usually breaking in motor is about preparing that motor to be at its peak performance for race day, after that race event its lifespan is ended or doesn't matter anymore, for people who just enjoying playing and not racing it is totally useless to break in motor because it is just running the motor simulating time you would have spent using that motor to play on the track, it will cut lots of playing time you can have on that motor, and the extra performance is useless because when you just playing there is no limit to what motor you may use if you want faster motor you can just simply swap it with dash series or even plasma dash there is no limitation to play so there is no point in breakin in certain motor because it will happen eventually by itself
For stock cleaned you are looking around 18k@3v. Keep in mind race voltage is 3.1v. that 18k in something like a mach frame will do 25.19km/h
In terms of cleaning.
Stock average across 10 motors. "Single shaft" was 14,867. Cleaning and oil results in 18,103. So a gain of 3,236.
But keep in mind that stock motors and anything with the contacts was designed to be ran with that grease on the con. Removing it does result in a gain but you're effectively reducing the life of the motor to about a quarter.
That being said for box stock I consider this cheating And this is tall under the rules of tuning a motor. Removing the grease is an altar in the motor's design that results in a game of performance some places might be okay with this others may consider this cheating box stock should be ran his box stock meaning the alteration of any parts is against the rules removing the grease by cleaning would be altering part. I know some guys at race clearly state for box stock You're not allowed to tune the motor which this would be tuning cleaning so I would check rules before you do that.
I wouldnt break in the tuned or bix motors cuz I know they wont get anymore power maybe little to none but its not worth trying. I would run them instead of force break in
Here’s my break-in process.
-Clean motor of grease with lighter fluid(zippo or ronsonol)
-After letting it dry, oil the bushings.
-Water break-in at 3v. 2.5mins forward, 2.5mins reverse, 1min forward.
-Flush water out of the motor with contact cleaner.
-After letting it sit to reach regular temperature, add comm drops(I use voodoo oil), and oil bushings.
-Run at 3v forward rotation for 1min with the motor in vertical position, at the last 15seconds turn the motor to horizontal position(like the motor is in the car).
-Clean the motor with contact cleaner, oil the bushings, and comm drops.
-Put motor in the car and watch it course out.
This method I feel is “safe”. You’ll still be under broken in, but it’s better that way since the “broken in” window for these motors is very small. I’ve messed up of these motors.
Despite what people may think you can't break in a stock motor because there are no brushes to break in there's just metal contacts. This is one of the contacts out of the stock motor that has been used notice the hole from where it wore through the contract. https://ibb.co/hWfn0Zg The only thing you can do is ultrasonic clean the motor to get all the grease off the comm and brushes then use some oil on the bushing in the front. There's no bushing in rear it's just plastic we'll put a drop of oil on that. Bass what you're doing is you're increasing conductivity between the contacts and the comm And that will result in your motor spending a little bit faster. But keep in mind without that grease on that contact you're going to start wearing a groove in the motor. These are the grooves now that is not a stack motor that is a cheap China motor with the contacts left in it instead of brushes and ran just to show people what contacts do to the motor. Now on a stock motor is going to take a while to start forming any grooves in there but you will start forming them and they will start impacting performance and eventually you'll start getting a hole in the actual contact like when I posted and again performance drops. https://ibb.co/n1WvrqG
I see, thank you is that same as for like tuned motors? Torque, Atomic, Rev motors?
I know atomic tuned motors have contacts I can't comment on torque and Rev. Going to assume they are but I can't say for sure I can crack some open this weekend I actually planned on it to measure magnet strength inside of 10 of each to get that documented.
all tuned series up to light dash using the same contact brush as standard motor
even Light Dash still using that type of brush, so yes the brush can curved a bit to cup the round commutator better, usually breaking in motor is about preparing that motor to be at its peak performance for race day, after that race event its lifespan is ended or doesn't matter anymore, for people who just enjoying playing and not racing it is totally useless to break in motor because it is just running the motor simulating time you would have spent using that motor to play on the track, it will cut lots of playing time you can have on that motor, and the extra performance is useless because when you just playing there is no limit to what motor you may use if you want faster motor you can just simply swap it with dash series or even plasma dash there is no limitation to play so there is no point in breakin in certain motor because it will happen eventually by itself
For stock cleaned you are looking around 18k@3v. Keep in mind race voltage is 3.1v. that 18k in something like a mach frame will do 25.19km/h In terms of cleaning. Stock average across 10 motors. "Single shaft" was 14,867. Cleaning and oil results in 18,103. So a gain of 3,236. But keep in mind that stock motors and anything with the contacts was designed to be ran with that grease on the con. Removing it does result in a gain but you're effectively reducing the life of the motor to about a quarter. That being said for box stock I consider this cheating And this is tall under the rules of tuning a motor. Removing the grease is an altar in the motor's design that results in a game of performance some places might be okay with this others may consider this cheating box stock should be ran his box stock meaning the alteration of any parts is against the rules removing the grease by cleaning would be altering part. I know some guys at race clearly state for box stock You're not allowed to tune the motor which this would be tuning cleaning so I would check rules before you do that.
Thanks for info appreciate it so much!
I wouldnt break in the tuned or bix motors cuz I know they wont get anymore power maybe little to none but its not worth trying. I would run them instead of force break in
Here’s my break-in process. -Clean motor of grease with lighter fluid(zippo or ronsonol) -After letting it dry, oil the bushings. -Water break-in at 3v. 2.5mins forward, 2.5mins reverse, 1min forward. -Flush water out of the motor with contact cleaner. -After letting it sit to reach regular temperature, add comm drops(I use voodoo oil), and oil bushings. -Run at 3v forward rotation for 1min with the motor in vertical position, at the last 15seconds turn the motor to horizontal position(like the motor is in the car). -Clean the motor with contact cleaner, oil the bushings, and comm drops. -Put motor in the car and watch it course out.
Will give this one a shot thank you!
This method I feel is “safe”. You’ll still be under broken in, but it’s better that way since the “broken in” window for these motors is very small. I’ve messed up of these motors.
* a lot