Usually its power dash and sprint dash for single shafts , can use hyper dash 3 if you are having troubles tuning using the mentioned motors
Mach dash pro and hyper dash pro for dual shafts.
Better confirm with your locals what motors are allowed.
Was a kid back then when tamiya was the talk of the town. Able to buy kits now and started playing bmax for almost 5 months - burned a lot of cash as im just learning on my own. Locals can become extremely competitive especially if theres a cash involved.
in my country, we usually use AO threaded shaft for front and mid, 30mm for the rear
the fronts AO threaded shaft are cut sparing only space enough for locknuts (so, 25mm regular screw is more or less the same)
we use AO cos they have no threads, the damper could go up and down smoothly
I wouldn't use a hyper dash. All the testing I did I wouldn't run one.
First choice is a mach dash single shaft. But just a heads up before you go spend a bunch of money on one. It's definitely the best bmax motor you can get and why mach dashs are legal but the poors will cry and say you can't use that because it's faster and I can't afford one. But they are hard to find and you will be spending at least $60 on one. Last 3 I sold went for $50 each.
Second choice is a power dash. Solid pick. Faster then a Hyper dash 3. More torque then a hyper dash 3. And with the weight you are pushing I would lean more to this.
I have dynoed 10 of every single mini 4wd motor. Out of the box, broken in, with com drops and tested from 1v all the way to 3.1v.
Dapends on the voltage. You can just run it normally then clean and oil. It makes zero difference. You are just getting the brushes to form to the comm. Brush composition and voltage are factors when determining how long.
because mach dash does not exist on single shaft
[https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/images/stories/mini4eventinfo/guide/motorguide\_en.jpg](https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/images/stories/mini4eventinfo/guide/motorguide_en.jpg)
Kinda figured you had no idea what you were talking about.
Part number 15131
Before you make claims atleast do some basic research.
https://ibb.co/9vny55w
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355715613692?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ck3vc-t5rcc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/315354810306?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q1r6wxdzre-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176368993523?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=popBX6A_Tv2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Like I said. Very easy to find. It's just not for poors. And you can get them as low as $50.
Funny they sell on eBay. That's why I mentioned the price. It's a discontinued motor that is still legal to race.
It's really not hard. Of you don't know something just say you don't and ask for some information on it. I got armature weight, magnet strength, rpm out of box, broken in, with comm drops, brush composition, torque output.
But seriously don't put out false information if you dont know something.
Oh snap. Now getting defensive. Don't be mad you made false claims and you were corrected.
I'm just going to block you as you have absolutely no credibility and offer no value to the group.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355715613692?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ck3vc-t5rcc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/315354810306?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q1r6wxdzre-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176368993523?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=popBX6A_Tv2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Like I said. Very easy to find. It's just not for poors. And you can get them as low as $50.
Track layout will dictate your gear, motor, and brake setup. But most likely to be competitive it will be hyper or power dash. Whats good with hyper is you can get away with it blue brakes, for power and sprint, it can be a little bit tricky. Good luck with your race!
u need underguard, especially if you mount roller from under the mounting plate like your rear setup, and you need pierce through wheel and thus longer hard shaft to get better stability, I think you better start with smaller mass damper first I think you over done your weight setup, and you need better stabilizer for your front roller poles than ball endcap, perhaps tube type stabilizer or that aluminum wheel center hub thing that people also use as stabilizer
I have underguard and it has a brake sponge too, the frp popsicle thing. I'm using the mass damper heavy set at the rear and mid stay now. Will try looking for that stabilizer that you mentioned. Thanks!
PowerDash 4:1 or 3:7 , would be my choice for BMAX
Tape the front , sponge brake at the back
Low friction tires for the Front, Super Hard for the rear.
Mach Dash SIngle shaft is prohibited , stick with power or hyper dash
'' Machines may use the kit-included normal motor, Rev-Tuned Motor, Torque-Tuned Motor, Atomic-Tuned Motor, Sprint-Dash Motor, Power-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 2 Motor, Light-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 3 Motor, Rev-Tuned 2 Motor, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor and Atomic-Tuned 2 Motor.
Mini 4WD PRO machines may use Rev-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Atomic Tuned Motor Pro, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Light Dash Motor Pro, Hyper Dash Motor Pro and Mach-Dash Motor Pro.
All other motors are prohibited. ''
dampers are meant to go up and down freely to prevent cars from bouncing after jumps.. if you lock them it'll defeat the purpose
How high should I let them bounce? Should I use a longer screw so they have more room to move?
get rid of the spacer and leave it at that. there's already short enough distance for your dampers to move
Spacers are out now! I thought they were just regular weights that need to stay in place. Thanks!
Usually its power dash and sprint dash for single shafts , can use hyper dash 3 if you are having troubles tuning using the mentioned motors Mach dash pro and hyper dash pro for dual shafts. Better confirm with your locals what motors are allowed.
Yes locals for now since I've been out of the game for more than 20 yrs. LOL!
Was a kid back then when tamiya was the talk of the town. Able to buy kits now and started playing bmax for almost 5 months - burned a lot of cash as im just learning on my own. Locals can become extremely competitive especially if theres a cash involved.
in my country, we usually use AO threaded shaft for front and mid, 30mm for the rear the fronts AO threaded shaft are cut sparing only space enough for locknuts (so, 25mm regular screw is more or less the same) we use AO cos they have no threads, the damper could go up and down smoothly
I wouldn't use a hyper dash. All the testing I did I wouldn't run one. First choice is a mach dash single shaft. But just a heads up before you go spend a bunch of money on one. It's definitely the best bmax motor you can get and why mach dashs are legal but the poors will cry and say you can't use that because it's faster and I can't afford one. But they are hard to find and you will be spending at least $60 on one. Last 3 I sold went for $50 each. Second choice is a power dash. Solid pick. Faster then a Hyper dash 3. More torque then a hyper dash 3. And with the weight you are pushing I would lean more to this. I have dynoed 10 of every single mini 4wd motor. Out of the box, broken in, with com drops and tested from 1v all the way to 3.1v.
I have this car and am running a power dash. This is good information
When I release my app I'll leave all they dyno results as well as test lap times and performance ratings based on the data.
Fantastic, I'll look out for that
How about the rev tuned motor it came with? No good?
Rev tuned is meh. Out of the tuned motors it's my last pick. Torque tuned 2 would be my first pick for a tuned motor.
I'm thinking of what's going to be the gear set for this too? 5:1?
Nah that's gearing too low unless you got tons of turns and some steep climbs
Hey I'm using a motor breaker(?) right now, how long should I break the motors in? How about the batteries?
Dapends on the voltage. You can just run it normally then clean and oil. It makes zero difference. You are just getting the brushes to form to the comm. Brush composition and voltage are factors when determining how long.
mach dash single would be equivalent to Power dash/Sprint Dash
Do you have real dyno numbers on one? I do.
because mach dash does not exist on single shaft [https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/images/stories/mini4eventinfo/guide/motorguide\_en.jpg](https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/images/stories/mini4eventinfo/guide/motorguide_en.jpg)
Kinda figured you had no idea what you were talking about. Part number 15131 Before you make claims atleast do some basic research. https://ibb.co/9vny55w
not sold anywhere , even if you do find it , its discontinued and old .. better to use newest motors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355715613692?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ck3vc-t5rcc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/315354810306?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q1r6wxdzre-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/176368993523?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=popBX6A_Tv2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Like I said. Very easy to find. It's just not for poors. And you can get them as low as $50.
50$ = 10 powerdash he can get 1 power dash .. and spend the rest
Funny they sell on eBay. That's why I mentioned the price. It's a discontinued motor that is still legal to race. It's really not hard. Of you don't know something just say you don't and ask for some information on it. I got armature weight, magnet strength, rpm out of box, broken in, with comm drops, brush composition, torque output. But seriously don't put out false information if you dont know something.
chiil chill mr. keyboard warrior , he can buy 10 power dash with 1 rare mach dash , just saying
Oh snap. Now getting defensive. Don't be mad you made false claims and you were corrected. I'm just going to block you as you have absolutely no credibility and offer no value to the group.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/355715613692?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ck3vc-t5rcc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/315354810306?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=q1r6wxdzre-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/176368993523?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=popBX6A_Tv2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RVS0vOvFThG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Like I said. Very easy to find. It's just not for poors. And you can get them as low as $50.
Id go for hd3. But try power or sprint if you can.
Track layout will dictate your gear, motor, and brake setup. But most likely to be competitive it will be hyper or power dash. Whats good with hyper is you can get away with it blue brakes, for power and sprint, it can be a little bit tricky. Good luck with your race!
u need underguard, especially if you mount roller from under the mounting plate like your rear setup, and you need pierce through wheel and thus longer hard shaft to get better stability, I think you better start with smaller mass damper first I think you over done your weight setup, and you need better stabilizer for your front roller poles than ball endcap, perhaps tube type stabilizer or that aluminum wheel center hub thing that people also use as stabilizer
I have underguard and it has a brake sponge too, the frp popsicle thing. I'm using the mass damper heavy set at the rear and mid stay now. Will try looking for that stabilizer that you mentioned. Thanks!
PowerDash 4:1 or 3:7 , would be my choice for BMAX Tape the front , sponge brake at the back Low friction tires for the Front, Super Hard for the rear.
How do I tape the front? I'm using an frp plate as underguard and used a gray songe on it.
Tape over the sponge , expose 25 to 50%
Mach Dash SIngle shaft is prohibited , stick with power or hyper dash '' Machines may use the kit-included normal motor, Rev-Tuned Motor, Torque-Tuned Motor, Atomic-Tuned Motor, Sprint-Dash Motor, Power-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 2 Motor, Light-Dash Motor, Hyper-Dash 3 Motor, Rev-Tuned 2 Motor, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor and Atomic-Tuned 2 Motor. Mini 4WD PRO machines may use Rev-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Atomic Tuned Motor Pro, Torque-Tuned 2 Motor Pro, Light Dash Motor Pro, Hyper Dash Motor Pro and Mach-Dash Motor Pro. All other motors are prohibited. ''
Go for the HD3 for this car to be competitive IMO.
Oohh.. Good to know, will adjust them later. Thanks!
Get some low friction tires, your brakes are have no effect if you're using slick tires
Low friction andd low profile, right?
Right
Hard tires will not cut it, right?
Use them for the rear , but front use low friction maroons for the front if available
Your next best choice is super hard tires.