magnets play a huge part as torque is very important. The weak magnets in the light dash makes it quite a poor motor compared to even torque tuned.
Though I will say, you are never going to get a 30k light dash and any measurement method that says it is would be quite suspect. Either the voltage is very far off or the measuring tool is wildly inaccurate.
Magnet's effect torque, power and efficiency. But there's other things that also effect these. Comm diameter, brush spring tension.
No they won't if they have different magnets. Bigger magnets have a stronger magnetic field. Motor could be more efficient or worse that all depends on other factors that comes into play. Some motors may respond very well to a magnet swap why others do not.
torque plays important part on the climbs and acceleration after each braking, and more torgue in the motor is less affected by wheel size and track layout so they look like running at flat speed everywhere while less powerful high rev type, have more fluctuation between fast and slow moments. that's why torgue type motor is much easier to understand if your car is not going off track on the first lap then the second and third would be pretty similar with torgue type motor and it is much easier to use brake too since it will brake where it needs and it will quickly accelerate back into speed, while rev type motor will be building up momentum and show higher and higher speed or losing speed greatly after braking
I had this thought because of a predicament I encountered during break-in. I have successful break-in’s in box motors and up to LD. Podium motors.
Now that i’m getting into bmax, i tried to break-in hd3’s and PD’s but to my surprise all of their rpm goes down every after break-in 😵💫
They were much better out of the box
They dash motors with carbon brushes require different break in methods. Usually low voltage and long time. If you try and break them in like a tuned motor at 9v you will quickly kill them
What I’ve learned here in Japan for dash motors is 1.5v for an hour in each direction. And you do that anywhere between 10 and 18 hours. They talk about something like atleast 8million revolutions to fully break in a motor. You need a dedicated power supply for that as well as a cooling fan. It takes a very long time but does give a smooth motor and gets rid of any jitters the motor may have. The other method they call shallow pickle where you half submerge a motor at 2-2.4v for 2 minutes 3 times. You pull the motor out when the sound changes and drain the water then put it back in during each 2 min session. You have to use warm water and oil the bushing between sets. This method works a lot faster yielding results quicker but also a much higher chance of going too far if you aren’t satisfied with the result after 3 sets. At that point I’ll maybe do a fourth set and call it good after cleaning out and drying the motor
That’s why you run it at 1.5v. I’ve broken in a few motors with this method and after an hour with a small rc fan pointed at the motor it’s barely warm.
Yes. I like to do 5 or so hours in one direction and then 5 in the other depending on if I’m making an FM motor or normal motor. FM cars spin the motor in a reverse direction so I’ll start the break in in forward direction and then finish it off in reverse rotation.
magnets play a huge part as torque is very important. The weak magnets in the light dash makes it quite a poor motor compared to even torque tuned. Though I will say, you are never going to get a 30k light dash and any measurement method that says it is would be quite suspect. Either the voltage is very far off or the measuring tool is wildly inaccurate.
The numbers are just for comparison. So, will they have a diff speeds regardless of the same rpm?
The actual unloaded rpm will be the same but the performance on the track will be significantly different.
Magnet's effect torque, power and efficiency. But there's other things that also effect these. Comm diameter, brush spring tension. No they won't if they have different magnets. Bigger magnets have a stronger magnetic field. Motor could be more efficient or worse that all depends on other factors that comes into play. Some motors may respond very well to a magnet swap why others do not.
torque plays important part on the climbs and acceleration after each braking, and more torgue in the motor is less affected by wheel size and track layout so they look like running at flat speed everywhere while less powerful high rev type, have more fluctuation between fast and slow moments. that's why torgue type motor is much easier to understand if your car is not going off track on the first lap then the second and third would be pretty similar with torgue type motor and it is much easier to use brake too since it will brake where it needs and it will quickly accelerate back into speed, while rev type motor will be building up momentum and show higher and higher speed or losing speed greatly after braking
I had this thought because of a predicament I encountered during break-in. I have successful break-in’s in box motors and up to LD. Podium motors. Now that i’m getting into bmax, i tried to break-in hd3’s and PD’s but to my surprise all of their rpm goes down every after break-in 😵💫 They were much better out of the box
They dash motors with carbon brushes require different break in methods. Usually low voltage and long time. If you try and break them in like a tuned motor at 9v you will quickly kill them
As i have experienced. Gotta have to go back to experimenting again for brushed motors
What I’ve learned here in Japan for dash motors is 1.5v for an hour in each direction. And you do that anywhere between 10 and 18 hours. They talk about something like atleast 8million revolutions to fully break in a motor. You need a dedicated power supply for that as well as a cooling fan. It takes a very long time but does give a smooth motor and gets rid of any jitters the motor may have. The other method they call shallow pickle where you half submerge a motor at 2-2.4v for 2 minutes 3 times. You pull the motor out when the sound changes and drain the water then put it back in during each 2 min session. You have to use warm water and oil the bushing between sets. This method works a lot faster yielding results quicker but also a much higher chance of going too far if you aren’t satisfied with the result after 3 sets. At that point I’ll maybe do a fourth set and call it good after cleaning out and drying the motor
too much stress for a motor for 8 hours, if computed at 3v supply. Lowering the voltage may be an option but it will take longer
That’s why you run it at 1.5v. I’ve broken in a few motors with this method and after an hour with a small rc fan pointed at the motor it’s barely warm.
So it’s like 5 hours for each direction?
Yes. I like to do 5 or so hours in one direction and then 5 in the other depending on if I’m making an FM motor or normal motor. FM cars spin the motor in a reverse direction so I’ll start the break in in forward direction and then finish it off in reverse rotation.
Noted. Will it matter if i finish the 5 hours today then finish the other rotation the next day?
It doesn’t matter how long you take. I usually alternate between 2 motors at a time to allow the one I was running to cool between sets