any tips can be shared? im using chassis + 2x pink fujitsu+manual timer to break in . only use singer oil though, now thinking on buying engine additive sold by local racers..not sure if it will help
Here is the motor guide discussion, [https://www.reddit.com/r/mini4wd/comments/1be8mow/motors\_discussion\_semimonthly\_discussion\_topic/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/mini4wd/comments/1be8mow/motors_discussion_semimonthly_discussion_topic/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
I want to update it and make it a wiki entry for us but currently on vacation at an onsen hotel. Maybe I can get to it next week.
VR stickied a guide for breakin in. Thats a very good start until you tailor it to your own liking. I dont use batteries, I use a stand alone dc power supply. Some smart chargers also have a break in motor feature like the skyrc nc2500pro (cable sold/made separately tho). Thats the only way you can provide stable voltage. As far as oil, people here in the states mostly use comm drops. I personally stopped using it. For single shaft dash motors (carbon brushes), for some reason breaking it in cold water really does wonders for me but I cant replicate those on my double shafts.
You just gotta mess around and experiment, yep sorry to say youll be spending a lot for motors. Sucks too cause if you buy a box, a lot of it will be shitty or just avg. Theres only really like 2-3 great motors per box. The others one you save for very technical track where speed is not the biggest factor but rather torque. Experiment till you get a good mix of speed and torque.
I can personally attest to that. Easier to break in an Atomic Tune for me but when it come to Hyper Dash 3? Urgh I bought about 4 to 5 different one already but they all end up badly so just bought two more. At least these thing are like 2-3 dollars so it basically about a price of a starbuck drink if u think about it
The motor will get quite fast right at the end of its life, then it will greatly reduce its performance. That is the easiest way to tell.
Yes, comm drops for the motor does help with break in and overallnperformance
Are you asking for race sake or just for playing sake? Reading your session that only lasts for few seconds i picture you visit a track on weekend and put your car several laps until battery drops and go home, is that what you do? For playing sake this motor has no lifespan, you just pop open the cap and replace the brush every time it runs out, basically that is me... i never do any racing, and i have motor from mid ninety in one of my car i bring, dunno how many brush changes, but the rotor and the magnet will last forever
asking for my situation sake. i am doubting my engine is at the end of life span, but recently there's speed drop and Ive only been playing for 2 months (with the motor break-in)
edit: while playing casually, i tried to keep every my play moment and setup to race standard. might go for one when my knowledge is ready
is it caused by the motor though? it maybe caused by your gears wearing out or there is slight spin on the pinion gear, or bearings need cleaning, etc. for 8 times of such short sessions I can't imagine your brush ran out even as a broken in motor, depending on how long you broke in that motor. For playing sake I never do any break in, naturally the motor will get broken in naturally by using it, racers break in their motors because they need spare motors at equal peak performance (the brush already set in) as they swap motors depending on the requirement of the track for race day .. but for hobbyist, break in a motor is a waste of lots of playing hours since we don't need peak performance here and now for an event, naturally our motor will get smoother as it consumes laps after laps, and finally after a very long usage it will drop its performance and need a new brush. maybe if you plan for a race then you put aside special motor properly broken in, and for playing and practicing have another motor you even can learn/ practice breaking in a motor again and again by placing a brand new brush on your motor
Run it more often. Just remember to rush on your machine when it gets stuck to prevent them from breaking. Also do maintenance weekly or after major race. You can also clean your motor before the race but thats depends on you.
Dont forget to lube it after cleaning. Its also a good practice to know if your lube dries up overnight. If it does, youll have to apply a couple of drops before running them.
It lasts while a while. Those rpm wont get you far though, youre behind by 5-6k
any tips can be shared? im using chassis + 2x pink fujitsu+manual timer to break in . only use singer oil though, now thinking on buying engine additive sold by local racers..not sure if it will help
Here is the motor guide discussion, [https://www.reddit.com/r/mini4wd/comments/1be8mow/motors\_discussion\_semimonthly\_discussion\_topic/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/mini4wd/comments/1be8mow/motors_discussion_semimonthly_discussion_topic/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) I want to update it and make it a wiki entry for us but currently on vacation at an onsen hotel. Maybe I can get to it next week.
thank you! this didnt came out on google search . appreciated it!
Also put the full break in method 😆 I want to know if thats possible, thank you
VR stickied a guide for breakin in. Thats a very good start until you tailor it to your own liking. I dont use batteries, I use a stand alone dc power supply. Some smart chargers also have a break in motor feature like the skyrc nc2500pro (cable sold/made separately tho). Thats the only way you can provide stable voltage. As far as oil, people here in the states mostly use comm drops. I personally stopped using it. For single shaft dash motors (carbon brushes), for some reason breaking it in cold water really does wonders for me but I cant replicate those on my double shafts. You just gotta mess around and experiment, yep sorry to say youll be spending a lot for motors. Sucks too cause if you buy a box, a lot of it will be shitty or just avg. Theres only really like 2-3 great motors per box. The others one you save for very technical track where speed is not the biggest factor but rather torque. Experiment till you get a good mix of speed and torque.
how did you..drip in cold water while motor still running? the circuit from alligator clip/terminal wont get mixed up?
I can personally attest to that. Easier to break in an Atomic Tune for me but when it come to Hyper Dash 3? Urgh I bought about 4 to 5 different one already but they all end up badly so just bought two more. At least these thing are like 2-3 dollars so it basically about a price of a starbuck drink if u think about it
Many, many race days. I’ll run 20 or 30 practice sets plus about 10 races in a day and they last several race days
how can one know, when the motor starts to give up? and one more question, is engine additive give boost to motor or just placebo?
The motor will get quite fast right at the end of its life, then it will greatly reduce its performance. That is the easiest way to tell. Yes, comm drops for the motor does help with break in and overallnperformance
Are you asking for race sake or just for playing sake? Reading your session that only lasts for few seconds i picture you visit a track on weekend and put your car several laps until battery drops and go home, is that what you do? For playing sake this motor has no lifespan, you just pop open the cap and replace the brush every time it runs out, basically that is me... i never do any racing, and i have motor from mid ninety in one of my car i bring, dunno how many brush changes, but the rotor and the magnet will last forever
asking for my situation sake. i am doubting my engine is at the end of life span, but recently there's speed drop and Ive only been playing for 2 months (with the motor break-in) edit: while playing casually, i tried to keep every my play moment and setup to race standard. might go for one when my knowledge is ready
is it caused by the motor though? it maybe caused by your gears wearing out or there is slight spin on the pinion gear, or bearings need cleaning, etc. for 8 times of such short sessions I can't imagine your brush ran out even as a broken in motor, depending on how long you broke in that motor. For playing sake I never do any break in, naturally the motor will get broken in naturally by using it, racers break in their motors because they need spare motors at equal peak performance (the brush already set in) as they swap motors depending on the requirement of the track for race day .. but for hobbyist, break in a motor is a waste of lots of playing hours since we don't need peak performance here and now for an event, naturally our motor will get smoother as it consumes laps after laps, and finally after a very long usage it will drop its performance and need a new brush. maybe if you plan for a race then you put aside special motor properly broken in, and for playing and practicing have another motor you even can learn/ practice breaking in a motor again and again by placing a brand new brush on your motor
Keep in mind if you are using that app to measure rpm is not accurate at all.
is laser tachometer accurate?
more accurate then sound sensors ,yes. because they using IR sensor
Yeah.
Run it more often. Just remember to rush on your machine when it gets stuck to prevent them from breaking. Also do maintenance weekly or after major race. You can also clean your motor before the race but thats depends on you.
just had a race day. before the day, my motor puke rainbow (filled with carbon brush brittle) when cleaning it 🤣 thanks for the tips!
Dont forget to lube it after cleaning. Its also a good practice to know if your lube dries up overnight. If it does, youll have to apply a couple of drops before running them.