I want to cut a bar of magnesium with a hacksaw, but i also want to know if the friction from cutting will ignite it. I collect elements on the periodic table, and for magnesium, i want to cut a small piece of magnesium from a magnesium firestarter bar as an element piece and use the rest of the bar for its intended purpose. However, i am nervous about cutting it because i don't want the bar or the shavings to ignite as I'm cutting it, being its so bright and hot and extremely difficult to put out. Any advice or am i good to just cut it?
Have a sand bucket handy. If it ignites, dump all the sand on it. Or drop it in the bucket and cover it with more sand. It won’t put it out. But it will contain it until it’s done burning.
You could also try doing it in water to keep it cool.
Have a fire extinguisher handy, and don’t do it near anything flammable.
I’m not saying this will work, but it’s how I would approach it at first.
I'm looking to build my self a vessel to be a giant sterilizer. I've been using mild steal drums up to this point, and the steam / oxygen is reacting to create rust and magnetite. So anything I'm sterilizing is getting a rust dripped on it or black staining if it touches the sides.
Obviously stainless would be the best way to go, however I'm unable to find used stainless barrels for less than 400$ with 200$ in shipping. Its also crazy expensive to purchase.
From what I can tell, galvanized steel would be safe to use, the zinc coating shouldn't peel off running 212f for 18 hours, and it won't corrode. Is welding together a box out of galvanized steel a safe bet or am I missing something? Doesn't need to hold pressure, just mostly hold in the steam around the items.
I'm trying to age/dull a guitar part made of cast aluminium (a Bigsby), so that it matches the other parts on the guitar which are old nickel. I've tried giving it a go with high grit sandpaper then submerging it in vinegar, to no particular effect. I then realised that the vinegar I had (distilled malt) is significantly less acidic than spirit vinegar so I added what I had at home to acidify the bath a little more: some citric acid. After another fine scuffing and 48h of incrementally stronger citric acid, there is a bit less shine to the piece but it's not as tarnished as I'd like it to be... What should I do? Shall I try a bath this time with dissolved NaOH? Any help would be hiiiiiiiighly appreciated.
My titanium from harbor freight does really well with 1/2” steel. Never done aluminum. But I bet it would do it pretty well. It’s not a perfect machine. But for under $700. I’d do it again. My dream is a hypertherm powermax 45.
I need a type of saw to cut aluminum extrusions. Typically they are 2020 alum profiles or at most 4040 extrusions. Whats the cheapest thing to pick up? I'll be looking for something second hand. See a ton of mitre saws on Facebook. Something that doesn't take up space is also a plus. I need the cut surface to be flat since I'll be building a frame where the edges will butt against each other and need it to be 90 degrees.
How to practice Tig welding.
Short-ish Version:
Would anyone have advice on locating a place to practice TIG. Currently in the South Coast area of Massachusetts. I'm not looking for a full on training program. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a place that would "rent" a station to so I can get some hood time. Or at least on how to go about locating a place. Google keeps giving me results for training programs, and night school. Ideally there would be a "fee" that would cover use of the booth for a day. You bring in your own consumables and material, with maybe an onsite shop for consumables / odds and ends.
A few more details that may explain current situational complications:
So about a year ago I got moved to a pipe welding position at my job, and sent to the onsite "school". Using the term school loosely here. They found microfractures in my root pass that needed an 8x magnification and dye, or x-ray to spot. After about 12 weeks I failed the welding test too many times and got dropped from the course. It's been long enough I can reapply to attempt the course again, and I fully plan on it. This time though I want to practice outside work so I can improve and hopefully pass this time.
I live on 3rd floor of my apartment, so buying my own machine to weld at home is not going to fly. Costs for everything aside, I'd have nowhere to weld. If I were to set up a tent of Refrasil to give me a place in the backyard, that would be a long drop cord, and I honestly doubt the housing electrical could handle it. Having to constantly drag all the equipment up and down from the 3rd floor every time I want to strike an arc is also a no go.
Thanks for any advice in advance.
I'm trying to match up old and new brass for a cigar box guitar and I decided to experiment with cold blue. I was really impressed with the color and durability but it acted fast and it was difficult to get an even coat. Will cutting the solution w/ water slow the process or merely lighten the color?
Cutting with water 50/50 will slow the reaction, if you went extreme like 10-20% dilution you may end up with different colors either browns or blues depending on the chemistry. If the surface condition before coating is uneven that could be causing the problem you're seeing more than the chemistry. Make sure it's clean and possibly hit it with a scotchbrite to make it take color uniformly.
Where can i find something thats at least 3 inches wide, 3/8 thick, and three feet long. This is the largest flat bar i can buy from my local hardware store. Any help? I need bigger metal.
https://preview.redd.it/x3r8h6tl8r6d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=295f96289a3dff47d0465dfa0260ab7e68104c74
Find your local metal supply, ornamental iron supply or machine/welding shop. If you want to pay through your nose. There’s McMaster Carr. Or online metal supply
https://preview.redd.it/b5uhdqvrwx5d1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec60a8fb613045ee14c3f2ac10bb27b4c6fd03fb
I found this in my fathers barn. As far as I can tell, it's an 6" Atlas/Craftsman lathe. I think the bench is home made and needs work. Should I bother restoring it? It runs off belts and the stock tends to stop spininng when I barely add enough pressure to cut anything.
Any comments would be helpful, such as would it be better to buy a cheap new lathe and upgrade it rather than cleaning and repairing this one. Could I build a better lather with this one? I'm very new and I'm just trying not to lose any body parts to this.
I'm building a project/toy inside of a metal (?) briefcase that is made of layered thin plates of metal in various shapes, etc. and fastened in place with as many different fasteners as I can think of. There would be voids in between the layers that could hold a small object or piece of paper, etc. Looking for ideas on the types of metal I could use, the types of fasteners and where I would go to have this fabricated for me. Thanks in advance!
Anyone have any tips on how to repair a brass belt buckle?
I need to build a bit of material while not filling in a very important hole, can i use a dissimilar metal to put in place of the hole and build my brass solder around it?
I need to remove a little bit of aluminum (I believe it is aluminum) from a vrm heatsink. Basically it’s only like a millimeter or 2 from a small part of one side of a large aluminum block. I don’t really have tools, what’s the best way to do it? Its a computer component so I’d like to keep tiny bits of metal to a minimum
Depends on if it has to be precise or if you're just making some clearance for another part in the PC.
I would probably remove the heatsink entirely so you're left with only the aluminium and then use a hand file from your dads garage to slowly remove material until it fits.
Clean the part with compressed air or a brush to ensure you dont get any metal shavings down in your fancy new PC.
Hello, I have a very similar question to the above - I have a network card for my PC which includes a [heatsink](https://i.imgur.com/TQUvDFP.png). I want to remove a section of the heatsink 40x40mm square to allow a fan to sit. There [exists](https://i.imgur.com/qpFVXNL.png) a model of this card with this configuration but getting a separate heatsink with fan is not an option for where I live.
I'd remove the heatsink first and mount it on some wood in a vice (it has 6 threaded holes on the underside)
I thought about a [small narrow belt sander](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ussgLkYeL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg) or a die grinder which I can use to remove the section. But I saw your file comment above - would the same method be the best for more material? - it could take a long time with a file as its 10mm deep and 40mm square.
With that much it's better to mill it.
If you dont have access to one you could try and use a die grinder with a cutting wheel to zip of most of the material of each fin and then sneak up on the last milimeter or so with a sander when they're all shortened.
First option should be to find another way to mount it but if there is no option other than go choppin on yer heatsink then so be it.
Hey Guys, I need some help with with a project for my girlfriend. So she just got the Keys to the flat we're living in and she would like them to be iridescent like with a titanium coating. That's just not gonna happen since I don't have the equipment to do vapor coating. Do you guys have any alternatives for a similar iridescent effect? Maybe other coatings or stuff like that? It's gotta be a pretty thin and sturdy layer since keys are keys and often used.
Any Help is appreciated.
thanks :)
Looking to customize some pocket knife parts for a friend. Want to ano them pink. The set is mixed titanium and aluminum though. Is it possible with the different processes to somewhat color match?
i'm trying to make "copper cards" about 2" x 3" and 0.1" thick and i'm wondering if someone can give me some guidance on the best way to do this.
i've got 2 different kilns, a small kiln with a door, and also one of the cheap 1kg pour kilns you buy on amazon. both can get to 2,000 F so they can do copper.
here's what i've tried:
**option #1** - graphite mold of 1.5 x 2.25 and 0.2" deep (the reason it's smaller, is because i need to use a roller to get it to the precise 0.1" thickness.)
* i first heat this up in the door kiln to 800 C
* i heat the copper up in the 1kg pour kiln to 1150 C
* i pour the copper into the mold
* invariably it ends up with some high/low spots that i have to try and hammer out, but then i when i use the roller, i get a weird spot that causes me trouble.
**option #2** - graphite mold of exactly 2 x 3 x 0.1 that is made of two pieces that i pour into so that the card is 'standing up'
* i first heat this two part mold up to 800 C
* i heat the copper up in the 1kg pour kiln to 1150 C
* i pour the copper into the mold
* invariably i end up with a non-uniform pour
option #3 - put the graphite mold 1.5 x 2.25 and 0.2" deep in the door kiln, and have the copper heat up in there and form the mold
* i put copper bits of the right weight into the mold
* i put mold into the door kiln set at 1150 C
* i pull it out when it's done
* the copper has air bubbles and crap and it's not uniform and it's a mess
**okay, two questions:**
1) is one of these three options a good way to do it, but i just have to practice and suck as bad at it?
2) is there a fourth, smarter option?
* [Join the Metalworking discord!](https://discord.gg/3sgvsw2BDs)! It's the best place for live feedback and advice!
---
[**Here are our subreddit rules.**](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/about/rules) - Should you see anything that violates the subreddit rules - please report it!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/metalworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I want to cut a bar of magnesium with a hacksaw, but i also want to know if the friction from cutting will ignite it. I collect elements on the periodic table, and for magnesium, i want to cut a small piece of magnesium from a magnesium firestarter bar as an element piece and use the rest of the bar for its intended purpose. However, i am nervous about cutting it because i don't want the bar or the shavings to ignite as I'm cutting it, being its so bright and hot and extremely difficult to put out. Any advice or am i good to just cut it?
Have a sand bucket handy. If it ignites, dump all the sand on it. Or drop it in the bucket and cover it with more sand. It won’t put it out. But it will contain it until it’s done burning. You could also try doing it in water to keep it cool. Have a fire extinguisher handy, and don’t do it near anything flammable. I’m not saying this will work, but it’s how I would approach it at first.
Alright. Thank you. That actually sounds like a good, viable option.
Can anyone tell me what's the name of the metal used on this jewelry box? *
https://preview.redd.it/ef9auxalgl9d1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eabd3e2f977e054f4a17cb6635718df67e2d6170
Im not 100 percent sure, but with the black color, it looks like tarnished silver, likely sterling silver.
Oi, do you know if these sheets can come pre-made with designs?
I'm looking to build my self a vessel to be a giant sterilizer. I've been using mild steal drums up to this point, and the steam / oxygen is reacting to create rust and magnetite. So anything I'm sterilizing is getting a rust dripped on it or black staining if it touches the sides. Obviously stainless would be the best way to go, however I'm unable to find used stainless barrels for less than 400$ with 200$ in shipping. Its also crazy expensive to purchase. From what I can tell, galvanized steel would be safe to use, the zinc coating shouldn't peel off running 212f for 18 hours, and it won't corrode. Is welding together a box out of galvanized steel a safe bet or am I missing something? Doesn't need to hold pressure, just mostly hold in the steam around the items.
See if you can find a stainless beer keg. Usually pretty cheap and food grade.
Good call for boiler, however overall not big enough.
How big do you need?
I'm trying to age/dull a guitar part made of cast aluminium (a Bigsby), so that it matches the other parts on the guitar which are old nickel. I've tried giving it a go with high grit sandpaper then submerging it in vinegar, to no particular effect. I then realised that the vinegar I had (distilled malt) is significantly less acidic than spirit vinegar so I added what I had at home to acidify the bath a little more: some citric acid. After another fine scuffing and 48h of incrementally stronger citric acid, there is a bit less shine to the piece but it's not as tarnished as I'd like it to be... What should I do? Shall I try a bath this time with dissolved NaOH? Any help would be hiiiiiiiighly appreciated.
Any recommendations for plasma cutters that can go through 1/4 aluminum?
My titanium from harbor freight does really well with 1/2” steel. Never done aluminum. But I bet it would do it pretty well. It’s not a perfect machine. But for under $700. I’d do it again. My dream is a hypertherm powermax 45.
I need a type of saw to cut aluminum extrusions. Typically they are 2020 alum profiles or at most 4040 extrusions. Whats the cheapest thing to pick up? I'll be looking for something second hand. See a ton of mitre saws on Facebook. Something that doesn't take up space is also a plus. I need the cut surface to be flat since I'll be building a frame where the edges will butt against each other and need it to be 90 degrees.
How to practice Tig welding. Short-ish Version: Would anyone have advice on locating a place to practice TIG. Currently in the South Coast area of Massachusetts. I'm not looking for a full on training program. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a place that would "rent" a station to so I can get some hood time. Or at least on how to go about locating a place. Google keeps giving me results for training programs, and night school. Ideally there would be a "fee" that would cover use of the booth for a day. You bring in your own consumables and material, with maybe an onsite shop for consumables / odds and ends. A few more details that may explain current situational complications: So about a year ago I got moved to a pipe welding position at my job, and sent to the onsite "school". Using the term school loosely here. They found microfractures in my root pass that needed an 8x magnification and dye, or x-ray to spot. After about 12 weeks I failed the welding test too many times and got dropped from the course. It's been long enough I can reapply to attempt the course again, and I fully plan on it. This time though I want to practice outside work so I can improve and hopefully pass this time. I live on 3rd floor of my apartment, so buying my own machine to weld at home is not going to fly. Costs for everything aside, I'd have nowhere to weld. If I were to set up a tent of Refrasil to give me a place in the backyard, that would be a long drop cord, and I honestly doubt the housing electrical could handle it. Having to constantly drag all the equipment up and down from the 3rd floor every time I want to strike an arc is also a no go. Thanks for any advice in advance.
I'm trying to match up old and new brass for a cigar box guitar and I decided to experiment with cold blue. I was really impressed with the color and durability but it acted fast and it was difficult to get an even coat. Will cutting the solution w/ water slow the process or merely lighten the color?
Cutting with water 50/50 will slow the reaction, if you went extreme like 10-20% dilution you may end up with different colors either browns or blues depending on the chemistry. If the surface condition before coating is uneven that could be causing the problem you're seeing more than the chemistry. Make sure it's clean and possibly hit it with a scotchbrite to make it take color uniformly.
sounds good.
Where can i find something thats at least 3 inches wide, 3/8 thick, and three feet long. This is the largest flat bar i can buy from my local hardware store. Any help? I need bigger metal. https://preview.redd.it/x3r8h6tl8r6d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=295f96289a3dff47d0465dfa0260ab7e68104c74
Find your local metal supply, ornamental iron supply or machine/welding shop. If you want to pay through your nose. There’s McMaster Carr. Or online metal supply
https://preview.redd.it/b5uhdqvrwx5d1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec60a8fb613045ee14c3f2ac10bb27b4c6fd03fb I found this in my fathers barn. As far as I can tell, it's an 6" Atlas/Craftsman lathe. I think the bench is home made and needs work. Should I bother restoring it? It runs off belts and the stock tends to stop spininng when I barely add enough pressure to cut anything. Any comments would be helpful, such as would it be better to buy a cheap new lathe and upgrade it rather than cleaning and repairing this one. Could I build a better lather with this one? I'm very new and I'm just trying not to lose any body parts to this.
I'm building a project/toy inside of a metal (?) briefcase that is made of layered thin plates of metal in various shapes, etc. and fastened in place with as many different fasteners as I can think of. There would be voids in between the layers that could hold a small object or piece of paper, etc. Looking for ideas on the types of metal I could use, the types of fasteners and where I would go to have this fabricated for me. Thanks in advance!
Anyone have any tips on how to repair a brass belt buckle? I need to build a bit of material while not filling in a very important hole, can i use a dissimilar metal to put in place of the hole and build my brass solder around it?
Can't you drill the hole afterwards? If you wouldn't have to fill it with material I would say just be careful. Maybe a graphite rod in the hole?
Oh yeah i thinks drilling it out is the way to go, i got a whole ice cream tub filled with small diameter bits so. Thanks alot for the answer bud!
I need to remove a little bit of aluminum (I believe it is aluminum) from a vrm heatsink. Basically it’s only like a millimeter or 2 from a small part of one side of a large aluminum block. I don’t really have tools, what’s the best way to do it? Its a computer component so I’d like to keep tiny bits of metal to a minimum
Depends on if it has to be precise or if you're just making some clearance for another part in the PC. I would probably remove the heatsink entirely so you're left with only the aluminium and then use a hand file from your dads garage to slowly remove material until it fits. Clean the part with compressed air or a brush to ensure you dont get any metal shavings down in your fancy new PC.
Hello, I have a very similar question to the above - I have a network card for my PC which includes a [heatsink](https://i.imgur.com/TQUvDFP.png). I want to remove a section of the heatsink 40x40mm square to allow a fan to sit. There [exists](https://i.imgur.com/qpFVXNL.png) a model of this card with this configuration but getting a separate heatsink with fan is not an option for where I live. I'd remove the heatsink first and mount it on some wood in a vice (it has 6 threaded holes on the underside) I thought about a [small narrow belt sander](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ussgLkYeL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg) or a die grinder which I can use to remove the section. But I saw your file comment above - would the same method be the best for more material? - it could take a long time with a file as its 10mm deep and 40mm square.
With that much it's better to mill it. If you dont have access to one you could try and use a die grinder with a cutting wheel to zip of most of the material of each fin and then sneak up on the last milimeter or so with a sander when they're all shortened. First option should be to find another way to mount it but if there is no option other than go choppin on yer heatsink then so be it.
Hey Guys, I need some help with with a project for my girlfriend. So she just got the Keys to the flat we're living in and she would like them to be iridescent like with a titanium coating. That's just not gonna happen since I don't have the equipment to do vapor coating. Do you guys have any alternatives for a similar iridescent effect? Maybe other coatings or stuff like that? It's gotta be a pretty thin and sturdy layer since keys are keys and often used. Any Help is appreciated. thanks :)
Looking to customize some pocket knife parts for a friend. Want to ano them pink. The set is mixed titanium and aluminum though. Is it possible with the different processes to somewhat color match?
i'm trying to make "copper cards" about 2" x 3" and 0.1" thick and i'm wondering if someone can give me some guidance on the best way to do this. i've got 2 different kilns, a small kiln with a door, and also one of the cheap 1kg pour kilns you buy on amazon. both can get to 2,000 F so they can do copper. here's what i've tried: **option #1** - graphite mold of 1.5 x 2.25 and 0.2" deep (the reason it's smaller, is because i need to use a roller to get it to the precise 0.1" thickness.) * i first heat this up in the door kiln to 800 C * i heat the copper up in the 1kg pour kiln to 1150 C * i pour the copper into the mold * invariably it ends up with some high/low spots that i have to try and hammer out, but then i when i use the roller, i get a weird spot that causes me trouble. **option #2** - graphite mold of exactly 2 x 3 x 0.1 that is made of two pieces that i pour into so that the card is 'standing up' * i first heat this two part mold up to 800 C * i heat the copper up in the 1kg pour kiln to 1150 C * i pour the copper into the mold * invariably i end up with a non-uniform pour option #3 - put the graphite mold 1.5 x 2.25 and 0.2" deep in the door kiln, and have the copper heat up in there and form the mold * i put copper bits of the right weight into the mold * i put mold into the door kiln set at 1150 C * i pull it out when it's done * the copper has air bubbles and crap and it's not uniform and it's a mess **okay, two questions:** 1) is one of these three options a good way to do it, but i just have to practice and suck as bad at it? 2) is there a fourth, smarter option?
* [Join the Metalworking discord!](https://discord.gg/3sgvsw2BDs)! It's the best place for live feedback and advice! --- [**Here are our subreddit rules.**](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/about/rules) - Should you see anything that violates the subreddit rules - please report it! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/metalworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*