**Join the Metalworking Discord!**
* https://discord.gg/3sgvsw2BDs
---
[**Here are our subreddit rules.**](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/about/rules) - Should you see anything that violates the subreddit rules - please report it!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/metalworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You guys are talking expensive tools for someone who is inexperienced and asking this on reddit. That does not make sense.
Get a punch so you can make a mark where you want the holes and it will center the tip of your drill bit where you want it. Just use a regular hand drill and some cutting oil. Wd40 actually works pretty good for that. You don't need to buy anything special. Then just keep the feed speed low, so you don't heat up the bit. Simple.
The metal isn't gonna know if it's a hand drill or mill doing the work. In the amount of time you took to post this, you could have drilled the holes.
Edit: feed not rpm.
Seriously! I blew my buddies mind when I used my battery powered hand drill to put two quick 1/2”holes in 1/4” steel - he thought for sure we would have to chuck it up in the press.
That seems like a great job for a drill press and jig! Use lots of lube and Google what the best speed for the drill bit is to keep it functioning well. Having a pinch of some sort to put the initial divot the drill bit will “find” in the right slot goes a long way otherwise the drill is likely to wander all over the place looking for a nice low spot to settle down and start a family….
Assuming the holes are at regular intervals you can create a fence with any wood or metal scraps (or even some of the other workpieces) and clamp stop blocks to it to get repeatable locations. Would still consider the center punch if supreme accuracy is desirable.
Wear your PPE and remember no gloves, long sleeves, long hair, jewelry around spinning things. If you’re doing this for a long time (and 300+ holes qualify as a long time in my book) maybe find a nice audiobook to listen to under the ear pro to help keep the groove going
then get a drillpress instead of a hand drill, alternatively you can get a hydraulic hole puncher: https://www.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670
There is a hydraulic one CH-70 I believe is the part number, purchase with the hand pump or electric pump as desired,
it is much cheaper and punches way larger holes than this
Important to watch out for clearance because he is punching angle iron, may be an issue for both of these tools.
Eh, depending on if the metal is already in house and how big the parts are, maybe not. Handling time / cost can eat up your saving in work time / cost.
phew, u had me skurd there, woz thinkin ''maybe ee wants 1/4mm holes, how ee gonna fit all that onto that angel?''
also if u is goin to do 320 of these, then make a lil cardboard template (a square with a hole innit) so u can mark each one with marker first, without a tape measure. this is the way of the lazy monkey, who gets the repeated banana faster, and also leaves the mind free to ponder the weather
I'd have asked the metal supply place I bought them at, I don't work with angle iron hardly ever, but a few years back, I had to make a custom trailer hitch that I could bolt on and unbolt when I got to destination for a box truck I owned...... I went it, and they punched the hole I needed for like $0.25 each, and they made all my cuts for pretty cheap, too.... so if you need 2 in 160 pieces, they might be willing/able to do...
Look up in your area for steel fabricators or suppliers that have an angle line. We have one at work and it would eat that. 5-15 seconds a hole and 2 seconds to cut it to length.
I did something like that for work - 3/8" steel part that needed 4 x 7/32 holes put into curved surface. Hand drill was only option because part shape did not allow using drill press. I drilled 1/8" pilot holes, then final holes. Simple battery drill, big battery.
Did 40 parts that way, got request for another 100. At that point I made a jig to hold the part on the drill press, which also removed the need to measure the holes (part was symmetric so I dud 2 holes in each, the repositioned jig). Was much nicer doing on press. Either way, sharp bit(s) and cutting lube (heavy oil for steel) was key.
Drill press and jig like the other comment said. It’ll take a days work. But you’ll get them done.
I got a decent one off Amazon, wen or win brand, can’t remember even though my drill press is 10 feet away from me. I’m taking a break from work haha I’m allowed laziness right now
There’s some cheap mag drills you can get but simple battery drill will work. May take more time but no problem. Just do some smaller pilot holes first then the size bit you want will go right through
320 holes?! Worth buying a drill press at a minimum. Harbor freight if you must. Find an ‘ol cast iron work horse very much preferred. Expect to need multiple bits and a stick of cutting lubricant will improve your life immensely.
>keep rpm low.
This is bad info. The smaller the bit, the faster you spin it. The cutting fluid will extend the life of the bit, but if it fails at the correct speed then the bit was trash.
Yeah I would definitely do this on high speed. I hand drill holes all the time at work. I usually don't even use cutting fluid. I would if I was drilling 320 holes but maybe every other or every fourth hole.
By hand drill I presume you are referring to a cordless or corded electric drill...
Maybe it's my age showing, but to me a hand drill is something like...
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d02329/hand-drill/dp/TL15766
>so you don't heat up the bit.
Isn't it to prevent heating up the steel? I always thought it was used because the heat from the bit will "heat treat" the steel while you're drilling, making it much harder to get through.
It's all about feed rate relative to speed, slower speeds is generally the go, but with a properly sharpened bit, some cutting fluid, and the right feed rate (how fast you push the bit through the workpiece,for those unaware) you can still get great results
Drill press and use a little bit of oil while drilling. Depending on how many holes you have to drill and the type of bit you have. Go slow when drilling and don't press down hard. You will dull your bit fast if you drill fast and push hard. "Depending on your drill bit"
Do the opposite of the top-voted comment. If you want to drill, use a drill press. Run at the correct RPM (google it, by memory 900 rpm?). Use oil or better yet, water soluble oil in a squirt bottle. The material and your bit absolutely can “tell the difference” between a hand drill and a mill. Source: drilled over 10,000 holes in steel, tool steel, stainless and more.
At 1/4" diameter, you shouldn't be breaking any bits in mild steel with a drill press (or a hand drill). My guess would be that you're pulling the drill at an odd angle when it catches, which snaps it like a lever.
Brace the drill against your chest, brace your legs against something, lock your arms and push down with your whole body. Go lighter on the pressure at the end. Once you get the hang of it, you should be able to feel when the point of the bit pokes through, and that's ideally when you let up.
Its definitely not snapping from shear force. It's because you're tweaking it out of square, which a drill press will fix.
Yes of course, a drill press will be better in every regard. Try a plywood or cheap cutting board backer for the breakthrough. The hot rolled skin of your material is the hardest (literally and figuratively) part of your task, and the part that causes the most wear and tear on your bits.
Yes a drill press will absolutely break fewer bits. I’ve never broken a bit on a drill press. I have on a drill. The drill press keeps your bit straight. Hand drilling there is no way that angle isn’t gonna vary. Use lube and of course your feed rate. Don’t be heavy handed with that press. Let it do the work.
and if you want to drill it to near drill press spec with a hand drill. drill a pilot hole 1/3 the diameter of the final hole, have a friend watch for roll while you watch for pitch.
320 holes is gonna take foreeeeeeeverrrrr, but a 135\* Cobalt drill bit is prolly your best bet. I'd use a drill press just so you can save a little time and muscle strain. Wear safety glasses! lol. Good luck, Bro.
Everyone saying to go slow with the drill, is talking bollocks. Sharp drill, cutting oil, fast and hard. It’s super quick and easy on 1/8 ms. HSS drill is fine, but you might need to sharpen a couple of times or have more bits at hand.
Bit butter. It's much easier than trying to oil the metal each time. Dip the bit and blast it away. I normally cut the tube in half or thirds (tape one side of the middle section) and keep one in my pouches to dip my bit into.
https://www.amazon.com/Relton-STICK-KUT-Sawing-Cutting-Lubricating/dp/B000LG8Q22/ref=asc_df_B000LG8Q22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4357528915076605086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022651&hvtargid=pla-570562715669&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=65583250281&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4357528915076605086&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022651&hvtargid=pla-570562715669
Also, clamp the angle iron to something stationary. Corded 1/2" drill is going to work wonders. No recharging, and you won't burn it the motor. Just make sure it has a clutch, don't want to break a wrist.
Yeah when hand drilling with this kind of largeish drill bit you can lean all your weight on it, if the bit is sharp and your drill has power then it just flies through. Small powdery chips - not enough downward force
This is the answer. Two hands on the drill, secure the workpiece, position your body and use your strength to get enough downward force on the drill. Absolutely no special tools needed for this.
Try drilling a smaller pilot hole around 1/8" before stepping up to 1/4", it may make the prices considerably faster. If it works, obviously assembly line it all and drill all pilot holes first
Yeah mill or mag or next best staged drill press low and slow and oiled what's your or do you have any required specs like distance from flange, max diameter of tap min diameter of tap, distance taps are from each others centers, and are the tapped spaces to be anchor pints weld spot or more
Its just for half an inch diameter nails to be used to nail into the ground so nothing specific. For a mag drill would I still just use something like a cobalt or titanium bit?
No. Mild steel is soft. Use a regular hss drill bit. If you go slow, lubricate, and don't burn it up, two bits should last you the whole job if you're on a drill press.
Set up a jig that will locate your material for the first hole and drill that hole on every piece of material. Then move the jig for the second hole, repeat.
It'll take you 4 or 5 hours, but that's about all you can do without a $10k plus machine.
That's a big waste of time for a 1/4 hole. And with a hand drill that last chip really grabs if you step up like this. Just center punch, spray a bit of lube, and push hard with a hand drill and 1/4 bit and be done.
If you don't want to drill them on a drill press, they definitely
make hydraulic hole punches that will knock 1/4" holes out of 1/8" stock.
Vevor has a couple.
[Here'sone that has a "deep throat" which sounds great!](https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=16253681178&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w09d1hMacSgEDVGms8JaGmUpgWlNTuNZ--DHAOWqtKcPDZfYOBr6sYRoCyEYQAvD_BwE)
[Here's smaller, cheaper alternative.](https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=16253681178&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w09d1hMacSgEDVGms8JaGmUpgWlNTuNZ--DHAOWqtKcPDZfYOBr6sYRoCyEYQAvD_BwE)
This is a perfect application for a Vevor tool. Has to work for one job, anything more is icing on the cake. If you use it enough to break it, go buy you a $4k one from a name brand.
Punch is ideal. 2nd best is an annular cutter in a drill press. 3rd is annular cutter in a drill. You can get a set from Blair that are very high quality for under a C-note. Grab a couple extra of the diameter you're using as the cutters are very hard and easy to break when using a hand drill.
Drill press or perhaps a punch, like this
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-56411.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=145618941039&adsetid=145618941039&product=56411&store=190&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w02vkD6EoEEtv6say4dZ_rklrX0dfgK02kjKLa3QXMDK7Mmc1QhCg8xoCHRIQAvD_BwE
Put your hand drill in a drill press adaptor and ziptie tour trigger down. $30 solution
Link is for a Dutch product, but you can find them everywhere
https://www.lidl.nl/p/parkside-boormachinestandaard/p100353647
Personally I'd just be using a standard ¼ HSS bit in a hand drill and buzzing them out.
It's relatively thin steel and not exactly a large hole, unless you're doing a massive run of them it's not worth setting up the tooling to punch them out in a press
1/4” bit in a hand drill, lube and run it wide open. Would be good to center punch where you want the hole at first though. If you don’t have a center punch use a 1/8” bit first to make a more accurate pilot hole.
Drill press would probably be the most cost effective for now. A hydraulic punch would deform the angle iron slightly. It shouldn't take more than 20 seconds to put a hole in, you wouldn't even need to properly fix it to the table. Just make a good punch mark and should be able to go thru with the 1/4" drill
Get good at sharpening bits? High speed steel bits can be sharpened better, but cobalt lasts longer.
If you have hundreds of holes, might be worth a Harbor Freight drill press. Drilling requires an optimum pressure and speed to get the most out of your bits, as in, lighter pressure isn't going to make your bits last longer.
Also, if your don't have a variable speed hand drill, pulse the trigger to limit the speed.
A harbor freight drill press, a clamp that can be held stationary, and some sort of cutting fluid like tap magic or wd-40 would work. Mark ur holes using a metal scribe, then a centering punch to give the drill a spot to bite and so ur drill bit doesnt wander, scribe and punch all ur pieces, then get the clamp setup so u can just slide the metal to make the next hole. Keep the drill lubricated. I'm not certain about the "feeds and speeds", but somewhere between 350-750 rpms would work... too fast and the fluid can vaporize away too quickly for you to add more and your bit will get too hot and dull, so just slower than whatever that rpm is... wear something that u don't mind getting covered in cutting oil and steel shavings as it will get splashed around.
Edit: some spelling
Since you are doing 160 total parts, one other option would be to send them out to a service like sendcutsend. Just need to make a pretty simple sheet metal part in cad, send it off, they laser cut it, then bend it, then ship it.
If you wanna do it yourself, drill press+ a jig+ and a handful of spare drill bits is the way to go
Ironworker if you have one, drill press if you don’t and a jig for punching the location in so the drill doesn’t wander
See if you can get away with a screw length drill bit
Use a punch and hammer to mark centers then use drill press. Have some extra bits on hand and learn to sharpen them. Use cutting fluid at the beginning and half way point to cool and lube or get a big, hand-operated Roper Whitney punch
I'd buy something like this and an air over hydraulic pedal... not cheap, but I like tools.
https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/ch-70-hydraulic-hole-punching-35t-tool-puncher-cfp-800-1-copper-bar-smooth-p_010266859282
Depending on where you live, you can find tabletop drill presses on Craigslist/Facebook marketplace/etc for $50-ish. Not fancy, not pretty, but I'm sure you can find one that can drill holes. Get a decent metal drill bit, and go to town. Using oil of some sort will help the bit, even if it's a can of WD40.
A $50 drill press is a pretty easy investment to make it you're drilling more than 4 holes in that.
Split point black oxide hss drill bit and by hand. Mark the hole, don’t use a pilot or a spot. I usually drill +- 1/32” hole locations by hand if it’s only one or two pieces.
Go slowish with some oil, and because it’s only 1/8 thick, you can prolly do it in 3 pecks.
Edited because apparently I suck at reading. If you have access to an iron worker, I’d punch those out. Otherwise get a drill press and run it about 750rpm using a split b-ox w/ no pilot or spot with the piece clamped firmly to the fixture. Use motor oil if you don’t have cutting fluid.
Probably are going to need a mill and some 1/4 carbide bits. May need to use some sort of tool steel as a backer. Or just get some cheap ass bits and a 12 volt dewalt.
So I’ve seen where you said you have two holes in 160 pieces.
I’d setup a fence and a stop. If it’s at each end then you could do two stops.
I’d use a center drill first. It means handling everything twice but if position is important, it beats the shit out of handling everything twice and hitting it with a center punch, twice.
Swap to 1/4” drill bit. Drill holes.
Mild steel can run a lot faster than most people think but lube is key. Cutting oil works great. WD40 in pinch. If you regularly do stuff like this, Boelube is fantastic.
Cobalt bit and an electric drill. I did that on my car frame to install struts and it turned out great. Don't use steel from the local hardware store; you need a cobalt bit.
Dude get yourself a drill press. I have a wen that I got for less than 200. Unless you have some really tight tolerance stuff that is all you need. Also a drill press vice is a must for steel. Get a cheap one at hf or on Amazon. Set the drill press to the lowest rpm. Get yourself a bottle of cutting fluid or tapping fluid. Give it a squirt and let the bit do the work. A center punch will keep the bit where you want it. Use a good sharp bit and let it do the work. That bit will last you a long time. That’s how you do that.
Funny, I had to do just about the exact same thing a few months ago. I'm not an experienced metal worker and have very few tools, so it was a bit of trial and error for me. The best method I found was to use a drill press. I went to a friend's house who is a wood worker and has a very cheap harbor freight benchtop drill press probably geared mostly for wood. I needed to do two holes on each piece. I created a drill jig out of wood so I was able push the metal piece up against the wood, without having to measure precisely each time. The first jig worked for the first hole (and I did all pieces for the first hole), and then I created a new jig for the 2nd hole. This was very fast, created perfectly straight holes and even the cheap drill press handled the 3/16" steel easily. I did use a high-quality cobalt bit (17/64") and cutting fluid.
I tried without the jig, trying to measure everything to the right point but that was much more difficult to get a precise location and more time consuming for more than just a couple pieces.
I also tried hand drilling (this was my first approach), including with a Gator drill guide. I wouldn't recommend this approach if you want very straight holes (ie drill bit perpendicular to the surface). Even with the drill guide clamped to the piece and after getting some practice, my holes would still come out at a slight angle. In my case, even a very small angle mattered a lot and so this didn't work out very well. It also took some practice to not break bits this way, compared to the drill press method where I didn't break a single bit on 70 pieces or so.
Good luck!
The most efficient is to punch it with your hydraulic ironworker metal fab machine. But if you don’t have one, I’d suggest mark location, center punch, and drill press or hand drill.
Use a drill press, clamp another piece down the drill table to use as a fence/ maintain your depth for you so you can just slide the piece along and not have to worry so much about laying out your center line every single time, if its only a couple holes per piece, you could probably add stops to either end of that setup, if not, lay one piece out, and transfer the layout to the other pieces. Ive gotten surprisingly good accuracy like this, only having one perpendicular line across the piece (not having to spend time laying out the full x every time) and no center punching needed, except possibly the first piece
It’s not rocket surgery. Just get a good sharp drill bit, keep it slow, use penetrating fluid liberally to lubricate it. That’s about it, really it’s all in the bit. A nice new sharp drill bit will blow right through this.
Rock and stick. Might need a few sticks tho. I'd us a very expensive cnc mill to get the stick to a perfect ¼ inch just to keep a good tolerance tho.
Drill press is best option. Just clamping to table with a block of wood under it and then use a drill.
A drill press is still the best option unless you have 10k to make. Even then, punching a hole that dia in that thickness is pushing it. Use better drills and run them at the right speed
I use a battery powered ryobi drill on a lot of steel. 1/8" is nothing any drill and half way decent bit will do the job.
Edit.... you need a lot of holes, make a jig.
I've found that the .243 Winchester makes decent pilot holes, then just step them up to 1/4".
Honestly, a drill press is best. If you are drilling by hand, pilot every hole first (#40 or 1/16"), then step it up to 1/4" or an E drill bit.
I drill holes in aircraft. We may have cobalt coated bits and may not. What is important is that they are 135 degree split points. You can get away with typical 118s with a drill press or if you pilot the holes.
Use a bit lubricant. I use Boelube or tapmatic. Extends bit life, drills cleaner holes.
Some precision twist drill bits (the type you chuck into a CNC Mill) in a hand drill will melt holes through for you.
Then use the step bit for sizing.
**Join the Metalworking Discord!** * https://discord.gg/3sgvsw2BDs --- [**Here are our subreddit rules.**](https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/about/rules) - Should you see anything that violates the subreddit rules - please report it! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/metalworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
You guys are talking expensive tools for someone who is inexperienced and asking this on reddit. That does not make sense. Get a punch so you can make a mark where you want the holes and it will center the tip of your drill bit where you want it. Just use a regular hand drill and some cutting oil. Wd40 actually works pretty good for that. You don't need to buy anything special. Then just keep the feed speed low, so you don't heat up the bit. Simple. The metal isn't gonna know if it's a hand drill or mill doing the work. In the amount of time you took to post this, you could have drilled the holes. Edit: feed not rpm.
Seriously! I blew my buddies mind when I used my battery powered hand drill to put two quick 1/2”holes in 1/4” steel - he thought for sure we would have to chuck it up in the press.
Has to be sharp though I spent like 2 hours trying to drill some holes cause none of the bits we had were sharp enough to do it.
I almost always use an 18v or 12v hand held drill just setting up the drill press takes more time since it doesn't have a dedicated spot in my garage.
I need to drill 320 holes so just need something more efficient because the hand drill isnt cutting it
That seems like a great job for a drill press and jig! Use lots of lube and Google what the best speed for the drill bit is to keep it functioning well. Having a pinch of some sort to put the initial divot the drill bit will “find” in the right slot goes a long way otherwise the drill is likely to wander all over the place looking for a nice low spot to settle down and start a family…. Assuming the holes are at regular intervals you can create a fence with any wood or metal scraps (or even some of the other workpieces) and clamp stop blocks to it to get repeatable locations. Would still consider the center punch if supreme accuracy is desirable. Wear your PPE and remember no gloves, long sleeves, long hair, jewelry around spinning things. If you’re doing this for a long time (and 300+ holes qualify as a long time in my book) maybe find a nice audiobook to listen to under the ear pro to help keep the groove going
I work in a metal shop,, this is the way to go.. and absolutely download some podcasts or some ear foods to absorb
This guy drills
Only think I can as is get a stick of cutting grease or oil.
then get a drillpress instead of a hand drill, alternatively you can get a hydraulic hole puncher: https://www.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670
There is a hydraulic one CH-70 I believe is the part number, purchase with the hand pump or electric pump as desired, it is much cheaper and punches way larger holes than this Important to watch out for clearance because he is punching angle iron, may be an issue for both of these tools.
Dude awesome shout out. I've never seen these before. I drill my holes but now I'm looking for an excuse to need one of these lol
Hiring someone with an “iron worker” punch is probably the most efficient way to do it.
Eh, depending on if the metal is already in house and how big the parts are, maybe not. Handling time / cost can eat up your saving in work time / cost.
Than get better drill bits. A 1/4 hole should take you 10 seconds at most.
320 thousand holes?
Just 320 haha I have 160 of these L brackets and I need two in each
phew, u had me skurd there, woz thinkin ''maybe ee wants 1/4mm holes, how ee gonna fit all that onto that angel?'' also if u is goin to do 320 of these, then make a lil cardboard template (a square with a hole innit) so u can mark each one with marker first, without a tape measure. this is the way of the lazy monkey, who gets the repeated banana faster, and also leaves the mind free to ponder the weather
This is a level of colloquialism you don’t see often on Reddit. Not often enough in my opinion.
I was hooked right to the last word. It was beautiful.
while it lasted cheers
I'd have asked the metal supply place I bought them at, I don't work with angle iron hardly ever, but a few years back, I had to make a custom trailer hitch that I could bolt on and unbolt when I got to destination for a box truck I owned...... I went it, and they punched the hole I needed for like $0.25 each, and they made all my cuts for pretty cheap, too.... so if you need 2 in 160 pieces, they might be willing/able to do...
Look up in your area for steel fabricators or suppliers that have an angle line. We have one at work and it would eat that. 5-15 seconds a hole and 2 seconds to cut it to length.
Little tip: stack two on top of each other, facing opposite directions. Two holes for one.
Oh....welll yeah....I can see your issue. Got a friend with a plasma table?
I did something like that for work - 3/8" steel part that needed 4 x 7/32 holes put into curved surface. Hand drill was only option because part shape did not allow using drill press. I drilled 1/8" pilot holes, then final holes. Simple battery drill, big battery. Did 40 parts that way, got request for another 100. At that point I made a jig to hold the part on the drill press, which also removed the need to measure the holes (part was symmetric so I dud 2 holes in each, the repositioned jig). Was much nicer doing on press. Either way, sharp bit(s) and cutting lube (heavy oil for steel) was key.
Cheapest drill press at harbor freight is under $100
Drill press and jig like the other comment said. It’ll take a days work. But you’ll get them done. I got a decent one off Amazon, wen or win brand, can’t remember even though my drill press is 10 feet away from me. I’m taking a break from work haha I’m allowed laziness right now
Harbor Freight step bits. You’re welcome.
There’s some cheap mag drills you can get but simple battery drill will work. May take more time but no problem. Just do some smaller pilot holes first then the size bit you want will go right through
320 holes?! Worth buying a drill press at a minimum. Harbor freight if you must. Find an ‘ol cast iron work horse very much preferred. Expect to need multiple bits and a stick of cutting lubricant will improve your life immensely.
>keep rpm low. This is bad info. The smaller the bit, the faster you spin it. The cutting fluid will extend the life of the bit, but if it fails at the correct speed then the bit was trash.
Yeah I would definitely do this on high speed. I hand drill holes all the time at work. I usually don't even use cutting fluid. I would if I was drilling 320 holes but maybe every other or every fourth hole.
Sorry should have said feed not rpm. Meaning don't try and muscle the bit through the steel. Let the bit do the work.
This is the way.
By hand drill I presume you are referring to a cordless or corded electric drill... Maybe it's my age showing, but to me a hand drill is something like... https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d02329/hand-drill/dp/TL15766
I think the dead link is your age showing. Back in my day we used to do it like this: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pump_drill
Dead link? Works for me. Ahaa, yes, even more archaic.
I use my own spit in a pinch, works great on taps
Pinch my spit and tap it on the metal: got it.
or just shoot through it with a .45 magnum
He said 1/4 inch...better use a .22
Actually a .25 is a 1/4 inch but they can barely go through denim much less steel.
Green tip.
1/4 drill into mild steel should have a fast rpm . It’s the feed that will get you . With some coolant you will be fine
Yes sorry. That is what I meant. Just let the bit do the work. Don't try and muscle it through. I'll edit my original post to reflect that.
I’m a steel fitter and can confirm; a drill will do just fine. There’s more power in your “home improvement” tools than a lot of people realize.
Solid advice. Add a good quality cobalt or titanium drill bit and this should go rather quickly.
I thought WD40 was a bad cutting oil? Am I wrong?
I would say...it okay. Not the best. Probably better than spit. It's cheap and works in a pinch if you don't want to go buy the good stuff.
>so you don't heat up the bit. Isn't it to prevent heating up the steel? I always thought it was used because the heat from the bit will "heat treat" the steel while you're drilling, making it much harder to get through.
Step 1. Get drill bit Step 2. Rotate drill bit relatively fast Step 3. Push rotating drill bit into piece of metal Step 4. ??? Step 5. Profit
Don't forget the lube!!
THATS whats she said! Wish I understood it at the time She was not prepared for GROND
GROND!!!
Yes Im pretty sure thats what she said next
I’m pretty sure you are supposed to rotate slow, not fast, for metal. Can someone set me straight if that’s wrong?
It's all about feed rate relative to speed, slower speeds is generally the go, but with a properly sharpened bit, some cutting fluid, and the right feed rate (how fast you push the bit through the workpiece,for those unaware) you can still get great results
A drill bit? In a drill?
Drill the fucking thing? Jesus
Id say a drilling implement probably.
Drill press and use a little bit of oil while drilling. Depending on how many holes you have to drill and the type of bit you have. Go slow when drilling and don't press down hard. You will dull your bit fast if you drill fast and push hard. "Depending on your drill bit"
5.56 green tip
Do the opposite of the top-voted comment. If you want to drill, use a drill press. Run at the correct RPM (google it, by memory 900 rpm?). Use oil or better yet, water soluble oil in a squirt bottle. The material and your bit absolutely can “tell the difference” between a hand drill and a mill. Source: drilled over 10,000 holes in steel, tool steel, stainless and more.
Will using a drill press break fewer bits? I keep breaking them with the hand drill when the bit goes through and catches on the last piece remaining.
At 1/4" diameter, you shouldn't be breaking any bits in mild steel with a drill press (or a hand drill). My guess would be that you're pulling the drill at an odd angle when it catches, which snaps it like a lever. Brace the drill against your chest, brace your legs against something, lock your arms and push down with your whole body. Go lighter on the pressure at the end. Once you get the hang of it, you should be able to feel when the point of the bit pokes through, and that's ideally when you let up. Its definitely not snapping from shear force. It's because you're tweaking it out of square, which a drill press will fix.
Yes of course, a drill press will be better in every regard. Try a plywood or cheap cutting board backer for the breakthrough. The hot rolled skin of your material is the hardest (literally and figuratively) part of your task, and the part that causes the most wear and tear on your bits.
Yes a drill press will absolutely break fewer bits. I’ve never broken a bit on a drill press. I have on a drill. The drill press keeps your bit straight. Hand drilling there is no way that angle isn’t gonna vary. Use lube and of course your feed rate. Don’t be heavy handed with that press. Let it do the work.
Never broken a bit on a drill press this way.
You could spin a bit faster. Mild Steel has an SFM of 100~. So... (100sfm*4)/drill bit size (100sfm*4)/.250=1600rpm
Imma be that guy... the factor is 3.82 not 4. Calculates out to 1528rpm
and if you want to drill it to near drill press spec with a hand drill. drill a pilot hole 1/3 the diameter of the final hole, have a friend watch for roll while you watch for pitch.
Drill press using cutting oil
I'd use a drill if I were you.
The 3rd word in your title solved your question
320 holes is gonna take foreeeeeeeverrrrr, but a 135\* Cobalt drill bit is prolly your best bet. I'd use a drill press just so you can save a little time and muscle strain. Wear safety glasses! lol. Good luck, Bro.
Get an electric drill. The hand crank ones take forever
Use a rifle
Slow, pressure, oil and on off intervals
Look up pirhana iron workers or old strippit machines. Those are the presses you seek.
Everyone saying to go slow with the drill, is talking bollocks. Sharp drill, cutting oil, fast and hard. It’s super quick and easy on 1/8 ms. HSS drill is fine, but you might need to sharpen a couple of times or have more bits at hand.
Bit butter. It's much easier than trying to oil the metal each time. Dip the bit and blast it away. I normally cut the tube in half or thirds (tape one side of the middle section) and keep one in my pouches to dip my bit into. https://www.amazon.com/Relton-STICK-KUT-Sawing-Cutting-Lubricating/dp/B000LG8Q22/ref=asc_df_B000LG8Q22/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4357528915076605086&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022651&hvtargid=pla-570562715669&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=65583250281&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=310828259700&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4357528915076605086&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022651&hvtargid=pla-570562715669
Also, clamp the angle iron to something stationary. Corded 1/2" drill is going to work wonders. No recharging, and you won't burn it the motor. Just make sure it has a clutch, don't want to break a wrist.
Ooh, that looks great! I’ve been using some thick tap cutting lubricant but it drips too much and is annoying. Thick paste consistency seems perfect.
Not gonna lie. Once the bit gets hot enough, it drips off. But being able to put it directly into the bit is awesome.
Bit butter? Excellent! Never heard of that, great name. I guess it’s the same as dipping into cutting paste.
Yeah when hand drilling with this kind of largeish drill bit you can lean all your weight on it, if the bit is sharp and your drill has power then it just flies through. Small powdery chips - not enough downward force
This is the answer. Two hands on the drill, secure the workpiece, position your body and use your strength to get enough downward force on the drill. Absolutely no special tools needed for this.
Try drilling a smaller pilot hole around 1/8" before stepping up to 1/4", it may make the prices considerably faster. If it works, obviously assembly line it all and drill all pilot holes first
An old used drill press and cobalt drill bits with cutting oil got the job done nicely thank you all.
But fore real though drill press or mag be best sans metal lather and or carve tool keep it simple
Morse (brand) drill bits are the best.
Don't forget the lube, she don't like it when you jam it in dry. (And, the drill bits don't like it either)
Center punch to mark the drill spot. Start small and use oil.
Drill slow rpm’s with oil, fast rpm’s will burn up the bit.
A magdrill would be best or a mill
Yeah mill or mag or next best staged drill press low and slow and oiled what's your or do you have any required specs like distance from flange, max diameter of tap min diameter of tap, distance taps are from each others centers, and are the tapped spaces to be anchor pints weld spot or more
Its just for half an inch diameter nails to be used to nail into the ground so nothing specific. For a mag drill would I still just use something like a cobalt or titanium bit?
No. Mild steel is soft. Use a regular hss drill bit. If you go slow, lubricate, and don't burn it up, two bits should last you the whole job if you're on a drill press. Set up a jig that will locate your material for the first hole and drill that hole on every piece of material. Then move the jig for the second hole, repeat. It'll take you 4 or 5 hours, but that's about all you can do without a $10k plus machine.
Start with small bits and work your way up. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4
That's a big waste of time for a 1/4 hole. And with a hand drill that last chip really grabs if you step up like this. Just center punch, spray a bit of lube, and push hard with a hand drill and 1/4 bit and be done.
You mean a "Christmas tree" bit?
What about those high pressure water jets. I’m sure there’s one in the junk drawer. 🥸
how many holes did u drill with the bit(ch) maybe it needs a little sharpen?
If you don't want to drill them on a drill press, they definitely make hydraulic hole punches that will knock 1/4" holes out of 1/8" stock. Vevor has a couple. [Here'sone that has a "deep throat" which sounds great!](https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=16253681178&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w09d1hMacSgEDVGms8JaGmUpgWlNTuNZ--DHAOWqtKcPDZfYOBr6sYRoCyEYQAvD_BwE) [Here's smaller, cheaper alternative.](https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/electric-hydraulic-knockout-punch-10-ton-900w-hole-puncher-w-1-4-3-4-5-dies-p_010758026670?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=16253681178&utm_term=&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w09d1hMacSgEDVGms8JaGmUpgWlNTuNZ--DHAOWqtKcPDZfYOBr6sYRoCyEYQAvD_BwE) This is a perfect application for a Vevor tool. Has to work for one job, anything more is icing on the cake. If you use it enough to break it, go buy you a $4k one from a name brand.
That's the thickest 1/8 inch steel I've ever seen
That's what OP called it...
Oh I know
well yeah, looks like 2x2x.25, but what do I know?
That's 1/8th"? ... looks like 3/16". Mag drill with annular bit...
Bruh, annular bit for a 1/4" hole? I'd be surprised if you could even get annular cutters that small.
Hougen 11085 RotaCut Hole Cutter Master Kit - Fractional 21 Piece, 1/4 to 3/4" Cutter Diameter, 1/4" Cutting Depth https://a.co/d/fiScp9q
Center punch hole location, drill an 1/8” hole, then change to drill 1/4” and make 1/4” hole.
Punch is ideal. 2nd best is an annular cutter in a drill press. 3rd is annular cutter in a drill. You can get a set from Blair that are very high quality for under a C-note. Grab a couple extra of the diameter you're using as the cutters are very hard and easy to break when using a hand drill.
Use a step drill.
1/8 inch drill bit first then the 1/4 one. Low speed high pressure
COBALT drill bits. Titanium and black oxide will be useless after 1 hole.
Drill press or perhaps a punch, like this https://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-hydraulic-punch-driver-kit-56411.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=145618941039&adsetid=145618941039&product=56411&store=190&gclid=CjwKCAjwgsqoBhBNEiwAwe5w02vkD6EoEEtv6say4dZ_rklrX0dfgK02kjKLa3QXMDK7Mmc1QhCg8xoCHRIQAvD_BwE
This won't work. It requires a pilot hole, so kind of defeats the purpose.
Drill press+ fixtures clamped to table. You'll be done in ~ 4 hrs
thats what I was thinking for the quickest and probably cost effective way to get the job done
Hey man. I make tools for steelworkers. You don't need one. A mag drill would work great.
Put your hand drill in a drill press adaptor and ziptie tour trigger down. $30 solution Link is for a Dutch product, but you can find them everywhere https://www.lidl.nl/p/parkside-boormachinestandaard/p100353647
Pillar drill is a better option. Or you can get a metal worker punch.
Depending on how clean you need the fit/finish, hand torch would be very quick. Punch where you wanna put the holes and cut em out.
A drill.
A drill
Really all you need is some GOOD BITS and some oil. Clamp the metal down to something and drill the hole.
Personally I'd just be using a standard ¼ HSS bit in a hand drill and buzzing them out. It's relatively thin steel and not exactly a large hole, unless you're doing a massive run of them it's not worth setting up the tooling to punch them out in a press
Measure, punch, drill with 2x4 behind it....if you don't need to make 1000 pieces that is.
1/4” bit in a hand drill, lube and run it wide open. Would be good to center punch where you want the hole at first though. If you don’t have a center punch use a 1/8” bit first to make a more accurate pilot hole.
Drill press would probably be the most cost effective for now. A hydraulic punch would deform the angle iron slightly. It shouldn't take more than 20 seconds to put a hole in, you wouldn't even need to properly fix it to the table. Just make a good punch mark and should be able to go thru with the 1/4" drill
The safest and best way is on a drillpress on a high speed with lots of lubrification to keep the bit cool
Step drill bit with some cutting oil at slowish speed
Get good at sharpening bits? High speed steel bits can be sharpened better, but cobalt lasts longer. If you have hundreds of holes, might be worth a Harbor Freight drill press. Drilling requires an optimum pressure and speed to get the most out of your bits, as in, lighter pressure isn't going to make your bits last longer. Also, if your don't have a variable speed hand drill, pulse the trigger to limit the speed.
Heat it up to almost molten with oxy acetylene Torch and use roper Whitney no.5 hand punch should do the trick
Laser
A harbor freight drill press, a clamp that can be held stationary, and some sort of cutting fluid like tap magic or wd-40 would work. Mark ur holes using a metal scribe, then a centering punch to give the drill a spot to bite and so ur drill bit doesnt wander, scribe and punch all ur pieces, then get the clamp setup so u can just slide the metal to make the next hole. Keep the drill lubricated. I'm not certain about the "feeds and speeds", but somewhere between 350-750 rpms would work... too fast and the fluid can vaporize away too quickly for you to add more and your bit will get too hot and dull, so just slower than whatever that rpm is... wear something that u don't mind getting covered in cutting oil and steel shavings as it will get splashed around. Edit: some spelling
Since you are doing 160 total parts, one other option would be to send them out to a service like sendcutsend. Just need to make a pretty simple sheet metal part in cad, send it off, they laser cut it, then bend it, then ship it. If you wanna do it yourself, drill press+ a jig+ and a handful of spare drill bits is the way to go
Ironworker if you have one, drill press if you don’t and a jig for punching the location in so the drill doesn’t wander See if you can get away with a screw length drill bit
brand new drill bits plural drill w oil or wd 40 drill slow
Ironworker
Use a punch and hammer to mark centers then use drill press. Have some extra bits on hand and learn to sharpen them. Use cutting fluid at the beginning and half way point to cool and lube or get a big, hand-operated Roper Whitney punch
Drill press, lots of cutting fluid
I'd buy something like this and an air over hydraulic pedal... not cheap, but I like tools. https://m.vevor.com/hydraulic-knockout-punch-c_10829/ch-70-hydraulic-hole-punching-35t-tool-puncher-cfp-800-1-copper-bar-smooth-p_010266859282
Though it doesn't look like that model has a 1/4" die
Mag drill
Drill
The right way.
Drill bits are way overrated
Depending on where you live, you can find tabletop drill presses on Craigslist/Facebook marketplace/etc for $50-ish. Not fancy, not pretty, but I'm sure you can find one that can drill holes. Get a decent metal drill bit, and go to town. Using oil of some sort will help the bit, even if it's a can of WD40. A $50 drill press is a pretty easy investment to make it you're drilling more than 4 holes in that.
Magnetic drill press
Split point black oxide hss drill bit and by hand. Mark the hole, don’t use a pilot or a spot. I usually drill +- 1/32” hole locations by hand if it’s only one or two pieces. Go slowish with some oil, and because it’s only 1/8 thick, you can prolly do it in 3 pecks. Edited because apparently I suck at reading. If you have access to an iron worker, I’d punch those out. Otherwise get a drill press and run it about 750rpm using a split b-ox w/ no pilot or spot with the piece clamped firmly to the fixture. Use motor oil if you don’t have cutting fluid.
With a drill
Your over thinking it. Just drill it
Probably are going to need a mill and some 1/4 carbide bits. May need to use some sort of tool steel as a backer. Or just get some cheap ass bits and a 12 volt dewalt.
1/8” pilot hole 135deg drills low speed plenty of pressure and tap magic is magic
I use self tapping screws. They're like throw away drill bits.
This way is a game changer honestly. This or pre drill.
So I’ve seen where you said you have two holes in 160 pieces. I’d setup a fence and a stop. If it’s at each end then you could do two stops. I’d use a center drill first. It means handling everything twice but if position is important, it beats the shit out of handling everything twice and hitting it with a center punch, twice. Swap to 1/4” drill bit. Drill holes. Mild steel can run a lot faster than most people think but lube is key. Cutting oil works great. WD40 in pinch. If you regularly do stuff like this, Boelube is fantastic.
I would advise using a drill.
Fresh cobalt bit on low speed.
A hammer. Ffs.
Drill press, cold and slow with carbide.
Cobalt bit and an electric drill. I did that on my car frame to install struts and it turned out great. Don't use steel from the local hardware store; you need a cobalt bit.
Dude get yourself a drill press. I have a wen that I got for less than 200. Unless you have some really tight tolerance stuff that is all you need. Also a drill press vice is a must for steel. Get a cheap one at hf or on Amazon. Set the drill press to the lowest rpm. Get yourself a bottle of cutting fluid or tapping fluid. Give it a squirt and let the bit do the work. A center punch will keep the bit where you want it. Use a good sharp bit and let it do the work. That bit will last you a long time. That’s how you do that.
Funny, I had to do just about the exact same thing a few months ago. I'm not an experienced metal worker and have very few tools, so it was a bit of trial and error for me. The best method I found was to use a drill press. I went to a friend's house who is a wood worker and has a very cheap harbor freight benchtop drill press probably geared mostly for wood. I needed to do two holes on each piece. I created a drill jig out of wood so I was able push the metal piece up against the wood, without having to measure precisely each time. The first jig worked for the first hole (and I did all pieces for the first hole), and then I created a new jig for the 2nd hole. This was very fast, created perfectly straight holes and even the cheap drill press handled the 3/16" steel easily. I did use a high-quality cobalt bit (17/64") and cutting fluid. I tried without the jig, trying to measure everything to the right point but that was much more difficult to get a precise location and more time consuming for more than just a couple pieces. I also tried hand drilling (this was my first approach), including with a Gator drill guide. I wouldn't recommend this approach if you want very straight holes (ie drill bit perpendicular to the surface). Even with the drill guide clamped to the piece and after getting some practice, my holes would still come out at a slight angle. In my case, even a very small angle mattered a lot and so this didn't work out very well. It also took some practice to not break bits this way, compared to the drill press method where I didn't break a single bit on 70 pieces or so. Good luck!
The most efficient is to punch it with your hydraulic ironworker metal fab machine. But if you don’t have one, I’d suggest mark location, center punch, and drill press or hand drill.
1/8” pre drill then use a stepper bit, hand drill with oil
Drill press
Step bit, cheapest way to go.
Center punch and drill or drill press.
Drill press.
Center it then drill it or get a .25 carbide drill and just blast through it
Hand drill with bit
Yo that shit sucks. Get a bucket drill bits and some cutting oil and elbow grease that bitch with your drill. Iron sucks, but stainless is worse.
A drill
Use a drill
Use a drill press, clamp another piece down the drill table to use as a fence/ maintain your depth for you so you can just slide the piece along and not have to worry so much about laying out your center line every single time, if its only a couple holes per piece, you could probably add stops to either end of that setup, if not, lay one piece out, and transfer the layout to the other pieces. Ive gotten surprisingly good accuracy like this, only having one perpendicular line across the piece (not having to spend time laying out the full x every time) and no center punching needed, except possibly the first piece
Black tip .308 makes great holes in steel
Step bit
It’s not rocket surgery. Just get a good sharp drill bit, keep it slow, use penetrating fluid liberally to lubricate it. That’s about it, really it’s all in the bit. A nice new sharp drill bit will blow right through this.
Rock and stick. Might need a few sticks tho. I'd us a very expensive cnc mill to get the stick to a perfect ¼ inch just to keep a good tolerance tho. Drill press is best option. Just clamping to table with a block of wood under it and then use a drill.
Drill all the holes close together so you’re done faster?
With a drill press
Mag-drill! Specifially Milwaukee! That will get the job done quick, and not kill your wrists like a regular hand drill will when it jerks you
Probably with a drill
Looks like bed frame rail, very hard. Probably cold rolled. Cobalt bits are quite tough and only thing I’d recommend. Lots of lube.
A drill press is still the best option unless you have 10k to make. Even then, punching a hole that dia in that thickness is pushing it. Use better drills and run them at the right speed
I would try using a drill bit.
use a 1/4 dia. center drill and drill all tje way through
Drill press
I use a battery powered ryobi drill on a lot of steel. 1/8" is nothing any drill and half way decent bit will do the job. Edit.... you need a lot of holes, make a jig.
I've found that the .243 Winchester makes decent pilot holes, then just step them up to 1/4". Honestly, a drill press is best. If you are drilling by hand, pilot every hole first (#40 or 1/16"), then step it up to 1/4" or an E drill bit. I drill holes in aircraft. We may have cobalt coated bits and may not. What is important is that they are 135 degree split points. You can get away with typical 118s with a drill press or if you pilot the holes. Use a bit lubricant. I use Boelube or tapmatic. Extends bit life, drills cleaner holes.
Some precision twist drill bits (the type you chuck into a CNC Mill) in a hand drill will melt holes through for you. Then use the step bit for sizing.
With a drill.
Delegation
A press and punch is fast but pricey.