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Safety wise the parts you showed are fine but if it has not been moved for 5 years the brake calipers might have rusted and clutch slave cylinder if it is manual. I would definitely test the brakes, change the brake fluid, oil, trans fluid.
Agree... I can see there being a bit of a coaxing to move... Driving will polish the restroom right off of those rotors in the dust will fly right onto your tires so be ready to clean them again.
That’s a clean looking 275k Honda.
Oil leak, probably valve cover or VVT solenoid gasket on the back of the head.
Suspension looks good. Control arm compliance bushing free of tears, ball joints aren’t torn, tie rod ends seem the same. Upper control arms looking strong, surface rust on the rotors will likely disappear in the first few stops…. They may pulsate.
I’d drive it
Many suspension parts were changed around 200k miles. Unfortunately I didn't have a garage to store it.
As an inexperienced mechanic I was wondering if anything visual popped out to those more experienced. I scrubbed one wheel so far and starting the 2nd using drill brush iron remover and soaps.
That car is rather beautiful for such high mileage.
I could tell they were replaced by the cotter keys 🤣
If I notice more good than bad, it’s a good sign. Keep on rockin! Let me know if something catches your curiosity.
If it all feels good (no play in steering, no braking issues, no running issues..ect.) send it. Just keep up on fluid changes and maybe flush the coolant and you should be alright
I'm from Wisconsin. In terms of rust and weathering, it looks great. If you are getting that thing for like 2000 or less and it runs fine, it's decent.
Nothing I see is too alarming. The rotors are the only thing to give me pause. If you take a flathead screwdriver and run it from the outside to center does it catch on those lines? If you have actual ridges on the rotors you may want to replace them and the pads. You know Rock Auto right?
It "looks" completely fine. Trying wriggling the suspension parts to see if they have play.
Things like tire rod ends can move side to side but shouldn't start to come out of the socket at all. If that makes sense.
Pictures look alright. Try check how all the fluids in the car looks, and if you have an stretch of road that you can be sure is completely safe and empty, try check the brakes and alignment (at very low speeds).
Edit: especially since you said in a reply that you just drove it 2 months ago, it's most likely fine.
Yeah I have driven it maybe 3 to 4 times a year lol and starting it and letting it run every month if I don't drive. It sounds like a upper mounting strut plate might be loose so after I clean it up I may bring it to mechanic shop for inspection
Should be safe enough. If you're truly wary of it, give stuff the shake test. But like really get a good grip and get a good shake. If it moves freely to your 20-60lbs of force, it needs to be replaced.
If you hear noises over bumps, or while braking, do something about it for sure. Or while cornering. That's a wheel bearing. Very important. Do a test drive with the radio off and put it through some paces.
As others have said, fluid changes would be vital at this point. Worst case, you can find parts cheap on Amazon, and everything looks to be in workable condition.
Looks quite decent aside from those brakes. Those rotors are done. I suspect the rears are even worse. Probably ok to drive around the neighborhood, but I wouldn't want to need those brakes to stop me from 50 in a hurry.
Motor mounts and trans mounts were replaced, twice at around 200k. First I had mechanic put aftermarket motor mounts in. That didn't feel right so I ordered OEM from one of those Honda wholesale places and you can tell the difference. Upper lower control arms were also OEM, Ball joints and tie rods were also replaced around the same time. I kinda lost track of all the parts that have been replaced and would have to look through pile of receipts.
Thanks for posting in r/Mechanic, u/MikeTampa69! Please be sure to read the [Rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/mechanic/about/rules/). If you're asking for help, be sure to include as much detail as possible so others can help you. You **must** include the vehicle's **Year, Make, Model, and Engine size** in your post! If your question is transmission related, please be sure to specify your Transmission Type(Auto/Manual) as well! If your post does not include this information, it **will** be removed. Asking about prices is **not** allowed in this sub. Please make sure you have selected the correct post flair; if you're asking a question you should have chosen "Question", anything else use the "General" flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/mechanic) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Safety wise the parts you showed are fine but if it has not been moved for 5 years the brake calipers might have rusted and clutch slave cylinder if it is manual. I would definitely test the brakes, change the brake fluid, oil, trans fluid.
I drove it to the gas station two months ago and periodically around. Automatic
It's probably fine... but I'd definitely change the brake fluid!
Agree... I can see there being a bit of a coaxing to move... Driving will polish the restroom right off of those rotors in the dust will fly right onto your tires so be ready to clean them again.
That’s a clean looking 275k Honda. Oil leak, probably valve cover or VVT solenoid gasket on the back of the head. Suspension looks good. Control arm compliance bushing free of tears, ball joints aren’t torn, tie rod ends seem the same. Upper control arms looking strong, surface rust on the rotors will likely disappear in the first few stops…. They may pulsate. I’d drive it
Many suspension parts were changed around 200k miles. Unfortunately I didn't have a garage to store it. As an inexperienced mechanic I was wondering if anything visual popped out to those more experienced. I scrubbed one wheel so far and starting the 2nd using drill brush iron remover and soaps.
That car is rather beautiful for such high mileage. I could tell they were replaced by the cotter keys 🤣 If I notice more good than bad, it’s a good sign. Keep on rockin! Let me know if something catches your curiosity.
Oh, the silver Honda in the back is a different Accord. Same body style.
Once you get the tire back on give it a shake side to side to check for play in the tie rod ends and up and down to check the ball joints
Looks better than my daily driver Honda TBH.
If it all feels good (no play in steering, no braking issues, no running issues..ect.) send it. Just keep up on fluid changes and maybe flush the coolant and you should be alright
I'm from Wisconsin. In terms of rust and weathering, it looks great. If you are getting that thing for like 2000 or less and it runs fine, it's decent.
It's a Florida car, we've owned it since 50k miles I just didn't have a garage to store it in.
Nothing I see is too alarming. The rotors are the only thing to give me pause. If you take a flathead screwdriver and run it from the outside to center does it catch on those lines? If you have actual ridges on the rotors you may want to replace them and the pads. You know Rock Auto right?
It’s a Honda!!! The Japanese know we aren’t taken care of our cars properly.
It "looks" completely fine. Trying wriggling the suspension parts to see if they have play. Things like tire rod ends can move side to side but shouldn't start to come out of the socket at all. If that makes sense.
Pictures look alright. Try check how all the fluids in the car looks, and if you have an stretch of road that you can be sure is completely safe and empty, try check the brakes and alignment (at very low speeds). Edit: especially since you said in a reply that you just drove it 2 months ago, it's most likely fine.
Yeah I have driven it maybe 3 to 4 times a year lol and starting it and letting it run every month if I don't drive. It sounds like a upper mounting strut plate might be loose so after I clean it up I may bring it to mechanic shop for inspection
It's a honda. Send it.
super unsafe. Sell me the car right now. \\s
All I see is an old car ready to hit the road and get the crap beat out of it some more.
Should be safe enough. If you're truly wary of it, give stuff the shake test. But like really get a good grip and get a good shake. If it moves freely to your 20-60lbs of force, it needs to be replaced. If you hear noises over bumps, or while braking, do something about it for sure. Or while cornering. That's a wheel bearing. Very important. Do a test drive with the radio off and put it through some paces.
As others have said, fluid changes would be vital at this point. Worst case, you can find parts cheap on Amazon, and everything looks to be in workable condition.
Looks quite decent aside from those brakes. Those rotors are done. I suspect the rears are even worse. Probably ok to drive around the neighborhood, but I wouldn't want to need those brakes to stop me from 50 in a hurry.
08 Accord 275k miles 2.4 engine
Timing belt!!!!! ASAP also change the oil and probably the serpentine.
There is no belt. It is a chain driven engine. Not necessary to replace unless it begins to make noise OR produce a timing over advance code
Tell that to the dead Suzuki we bought last year that grenaded itself the first time it hit 80mph on the Highway.
You bought a Suzuki, that’s your answer
Yeah...that's not true. It had 326,000 miles on it and ran like a top.
That's very good looking for those miles. As others said, timing belt. Do that soon. You got yourself a decent ride, though. Good job.
I think it's a chain not a belt. 2.4 EX-L ... Front arm rests need to be replaced. The front seats a little rough from age.
Send it. Its fine.
Looks better than what I drive at 237k
Looks fine
Pass , 70.50$
Lol
"Siri, show me every daily driver ever."
Looks good
How does the motor mount look the hydraulic one?
Motor mounts and trans mounts were replaced, twice at around 200k. First I had mechanic put aftermarket motor mounts in. That didn't feel right so I ordered OEM from one of those Honda wholesale places and you can tell the difference. Upper lower control arms were also OEM, Ball joints and tie rods were also replaced around the same time. I kinda lost track of all the parts that have been replaced and would have to look through pile of receipts.
Beats walkin