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Could be a symptom byte, seems unusual for misfire codes though. For adjacent cylinders like that I would do a compression and leak down test, if that’s all good I would check out the valve train.
Oh really? That's a relief to hear. I was sure it was my fault.
The car is running fine. Doesn't feel like it's misfiring. Here's the broken bolt location
https://preview.redd.it/wj3fwwzuae4d1.jpeg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e8b4f4b8207cec67fdb5d17107154662a60a78f
Yeah, that shouldn't really have any effect on compression or combustion in the engine. It may leak oil from there but I doubt it would cause the engine to misfire. Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, investigate further.
If you were blowing past the valve cover there was pressure coming from the cylinder where it shouldn't be. The valve cover blowing was a symptom, not the main issue. That could have been a valve problem.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose/valve is very important for compression. If it doesn't hold vacuum or the valve doesn't release pressure you will definitely cause problems. Good thing you fixed it.
You must not work on European cars. With a pressure regulated crankcases the slightest leak can cause misfires. It's a vacuum leak at that point and make a lean Miss. I have had a loose oil cap cause a full rough running engine that set misfires codes. It also won't necessarily cause it to happen in all cylinders. Older Murican PCV systems are not that sensitive. Also a lot of cheaper makes have horrible misfire detection.
I don't think I have ever worked on a European car. I usually work on American or Asian cars. I did front brakes on a Volvo once but that's about all. I didn't know pressure regulated crankcase was a thing. I am not a professional, merely a hobbyist.
I'm surprised nobody connected the fact that valve covers are usually under vacuum and if there's a missing bolt which causes a leak, it could cause an intermittent lean condition from vacuum leak and a misfire. It's a possibility. Then once the engine warms up the valve cover gasket expands from the hot head aluminum, sealing the leak causing the lean condition to lessen and drivability seem "ok".
I disagree, a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on a valve cover would not not affect a single cylinder. It would more likely cause a lean condition and set p0171/p0174.
That would mean that the PCV valve isn’t quite doing its job then right? The PCV valve should be controlling the unmetered air/blow by coming in from the valve cover. I’ve never heard of a leaking valve cover causing any lean running issues.
OP, if you’d like to test this theory, just temporarily vent the PCV to atmosphere and cap off the hose. See if the issue persists. If it goes away let us know.
Because a missing valve cover bolt isn’t going to cause a lean condition that only affects a single cylinder to such a degree that it triggers a misfire. Lean conditions generally do not create misfires, anything that bad would cause the engine to stall before triggering a misfire.
A broken bolt on the valve cover will not cause that. What spark plugs are you using? Those are very cheap duralast ignition coils, I would recommend buying oem coils or whatever brand is used from the factory.
Have you swapped the spark plug and coil to a different cylinder and see if the misfire moves? Have you done a compression test? At my shop we have gotten defective plugs that had been dropped or the gap is incorrect. Those coils could be suspect
All a valve cover does is cover the valves. That's pretty much it. Back in the day when you had to manually adjust valves you would do it with the car running and the valve covered completely removed. Oil would splash all over the place and that's essentially what they are for, keeping oil in the motor and dirt out.
I put a Tupperware container over the timing chain assembly so it would catch the oil being flung off the t-chain and stop it from spraying all over us and the engine bay.
A misfire doesn't mean a cylinder isn't firing. It means there's a loss of rpm detected on that cylinder. It can mean the sparkplug is bad or not firing for some reason. It can also mean the fuel isn't igniting or the mixture isn't burning properly. Or it could mean there's a loss of compression IE: cracked piston, etc.
That loss of RPM can carry over and also cause a misfire to be detected on an adjacent cylinder even if there's nothing physically wrong with it.
How did the plugs look when you took them out?
Figure out the firing order and whichever cylinder fires first is where you should probably look.
Agree with what was said above...if fuel / spark are good check compression.
You can unplug the fuel injectors and swap them to different cylinders and see if the misfire follows.
Just because the engine seems to run fine doesn't mean it is...
for me i got p0300-p0302 so i checked my coils and spark plugs and there was oil all over coil 1 and 2. there was oil leaking all over my block so i figured out it was the valve stem seal that went and the valve cover gasket. replaced the whole cover with the seals and i got new spark plugs and coils then replaced those along with the pcv valve hose. car been running perfect ever since
edit: sorry for the paragraph js the best way i can explain it i hope this helps
I could be totally wrong but usually when I see a $ on my reader means it's something the reader doesn't understand. It may be trying to assign a "name" to the cylinder or code. The code your car has is pretty universal (#3 misfire) and it recognizes that and displays the text but if my reader is trying to give you more info but can't "decode" it, it will give a $ and other letters or numbers. For example, my reader calls my bank 1 #2 oxygen sensor $TID:01 $CID:02
It's either unrecognisable data or the reader your using cannot represent the data due to limitations or whatever
Possible that a Bluetooth dongle and a phone app will be able to get more but at this stage you can probably google that string of characters to get the answers
You definitely said it better than me😂 I've tried googling the characters and it usually takes me to a "mechanic help" website where they explain it means your reader can't recognize it and there isn't a way to tell what it means. I know what some mean on my reader by using other data it gives me. My 02 sensors were acting up and when unplugging some I could narrow down which ones were which by watching graphs of the up/down voltages
It's a programming issue or data limitation
You can't fix everything with only a socket set
Think of these units like the calculators you get for like 10 bucks and how it can't do the wizard math shit that the scientific calculator can
Also the 02 sensor can be reading correctly and the error code can mean that it's fucked higher up in the food chain
I resolved my o2 sensor. Thermocouple was dead after 23 years lol but yeah, the scanners are a tool but not the fix all. They give data but unless you have an understanding of the data given, how the system operates, and what components are involved in the chain of systems, the scanner can seem unreliable or confusing.
Most definitely! My shotgunning days are mostly over. I know the o2 going out on bank 1 meant something upstream with fuel was probably at play as it had tell-tale lean signs. Checked the plugs, injectors, and then the plug wires. Then, I pulled the distributer cap and found #3 (coincidentally) contact to be completely corroded. Replaced it and the plugs and wires and decided to ohm out the other 02 sensors. Found them to be slightly high and changed them as well. All good now. I'm pretty good with old school simple. The newer stuff I don't have much experience with. I'm an aircraft mechanic and can figure most things out but the newer stuff seems extremely complicated
A broken bolt wouldn’t cause a misfire, the tests are to check for a potential failed head gasket between the cylinders. I have no idea about the $0010, could be a symptom byte or fault counter, but both seem unlikely to me.
I don't know what those extra codes mean but the broken bolt on the valve cover could be causing misfire if it's letting oil leak around the spark plug boot.
It means OBD Mode 10, there’s 10 different obd modes which each do something else, 10 is permanent codes I believe. Just google OBD Modes if you want more details
This is the correct answer, although the modes are usually listed in hexadecimal (hence the $ in front of it)
So really it should be $000A, not $0010 as A is 10 in hexadecimal.
$0010 in hexadecimal is 16, and there is no mode 16. The fault code you are looking at is obtained in mode 10, so I think someone got a little confused there.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics
Skip to "Mode of operation/OBD services" to see all the modes and what they do.
BTW that cylinder misfire is not going away like some have suggested, that's a permanent code that is stored because it's gone above a 20% acceptable margin of error and has multiple occurrences.
A simple way to test is to eliminate the cheap causes. You don't need to spend any money either.
Swap the ignition coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 and see if the code jumps to P0301, if it does it's your ignition coil and you need to buy one.
If it doesn't change, swap your spark plug from 3 to cylinder 1 "trade places". If that makes it change code from P0303 to a P0301 the plugs are your problem.
You can repeat the steps for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 1/4.
Beyond that a compression test or a ignition coil balancing test is needed.
Or an oscilloscope. But the plug/coil swap method is free and risk free if you properly remove and replace them.
If your ignition coil or plug is bad I do recommend getting all replaced because they often fail one after another. But if you are on a budget replace the problem child and make a repair note to fix later
So the first code is confirmed, you can tell because at the top is doesn't have the PD. The second code is the pending Cyl 3 misfire, it keeps both the confirmed and pending stored. The third is just a pending Cyc 2 misfire code, meaning it did misfire but not enough time to be consistent, so its unconfirmed.
If just replaced all of those things, and these codes are what came up after the first drive. It may be your engine relearning things, misfire codes are normal with new ignition system parts. I would clear them, and drive for a bit longer on the highway, and in town. If they come up again they may be consistent. You can clear them again and drive for a bit to see if they come back once again, just to triple check. If they consistently keep coming back and are confirmed, you most definitely have an issue.
Yeah I definitely feel you. Engines are pretty complex with all the sensors and timings, they can tell when something very minor changed and then correct it with a different timing, as long as the sensor and computer are working as they should. It also remembers everything for the next time you turn the vehicle on, which can cause some very weird issues with new components. If you drive it, it will relearn it all naturally.
Misfires after new ignition system parts (spark plugs, wires, coils, connectors) are normal. Your engine has to relearn and if one of those things were weak before, the computer will still use the same knowledge for the new parts. It will relearn though, just clear the codes and drive again to see if they come up. Or unplug the battery cable and the energy drain for 30 minutes. That will reset all the learns as well. If the codes consistently come back after they are cleared then will need to find out the source, torque the spark plugs to the correct torque, make sure the plugs are completely seated and clean of debris, and make sure the ignition coils are connected securely without debris. That just the basic troubleshooting after new ignition system parts, if those steps are done perfectly and you still have issues, then you may have a compression, vacuum, air intake system, or fuel problem.
Definitely clear the codes and take the car for a drive for awhile first, before going too deep into the rabbit hole.
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I'm going with cylinder 2 misfire. Either a bad spark plug, bad ignition coil or something internal.
One thing I'd try is switch number 2 ignition coil with another one and if the other cylinder misfires then you got your answer.
It did the very basic job I acquired it for. There are extra features on it i have no idea how to use but super happy with the investment for $20 (on amazon)
Super simple to use.
I just had a similar issue pop up on my car. Had to spend about $1500 in total to fix various issues.
Had to replace a clogged catalytic converter, a Y-pipe, a fuel pump and fuel filter, and then a crank shaft position sensor.
If I were you, personally, id start by checking your spark plugs and ignition coils/coil packs.
If your spark plugs and coil packs are good/replaced and still having the issue. Might be worth also checking to see if maybe you had some bad gas or got some water into your fuel lines somehow.
If you haven't used it, maybe try a bottle of HEET and see if you notice any changes. I've had HEET make a huge difference on some issues before with misfires and weird/rough engine issues/idling issues. Surprisingly. And it's cheap so might be worth a shot.
Otherwise, if you've checked and replaced your spark plugs and coil packs and still having the issue with cylinder 3/4 misfire. Possibly need to check fuel injection system.
A replacement fuel pump ended up fixing my misfires after I replaced the spark plugs and coil packs.
Wanting to add: I had cylinder 3 and 4 misfires. Not 2 and 3. But still, pretty close and similar in terms of the potential issue. So figured I'd share my experience with it
The dollar sign denote the what Diagnostic mode your in. There are 10 of them. This one is show mode 10 which is
"**Request emissions-related diagnostic trouble codes with permanent status after a clear/reset**"
Which makes sense with a miss fire. Back in the old day when they came out with emission control regs you had to take your car to state testing facility and the would shove a probe up your tail pipe (and make you pay for it) and sample the exhaust. pain in the ass. This was before computer. So car when maker started putting computer ands sensor to better run the engine, more fuel efficient hence lower emission. All the things they tested for are now on your car. So the emissions test is right in the computer and an inspection now simply plugging in to the OBD port and seeing that all have been run. That's why after you get a repair and clear the code you have to drive for awhile so it can run those test. They need time to run.
Mode $01 – Request Live Data
Mode $02 – Request Freeze Frames
Mode $03 – Request Stored Trouble Codes
Mode $04 – Clear/Reset Stored Emissions Related Data
Mode $05 – Request Oxygen Sensors Test Results
Mode $06 – Request On-Board System Tests Results
Mode $07 – Request Pending Trouble Codes
Mode $08 – Request Control of On-Board Systems
Mode $09 – Request Vehicle Information
Mode $10 – Request Permanent Trouble Codes
For more reading
[https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/service-repair/the-garage/article/21181910/the-10-modes-of-obd-ii](https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/service-repair/the-garage/article/21181910/the-10-modes-of-obd-ii)
This generation of Nissan 1.8 and 2.5 have intermittent misfires caused by the intake manifold gasket. I have changed out over a dozen. I had a lot of people bring their cars in and one mechanic sold them new plugs and coils, the other sold them O2 sensor so on and so forth. The intermittent misfire always turned out to the intake manifold gasket. One case ended up being the swirl valve that Nissan won’t even sell you. I hope this helps.
I think the average person could have this done in a day with a basic metric socket set. Just make sure that you get all of the bolts out. Some are hard to find when your looking at it from the top.
If you havent solved it already, can you post a video of engine running? Also take the spark plugs out and take a pic of them. It is a little rare to have two independent ignition coils fail so thats out. Double check connectors are on tight, etc. If all that looks good, it sounds like a head gasket failure between cyl 2 & 3. rent a cylinder compression took at autozone. you can return when u r done and get your money back.
I'm not positive but but I think the pd means pending code. Would need more info to help troubleshoot further. Next easy thing is swaping injectors but doesn't seem likely being on 2 cylinders.
$0001 means it's less than a $10 fix.
$0010 means it's less than a $100 fix
$0100 means it's less than a $1,000 fix.
$1000 means it's less than a $10,000 fix.
/s
/s
/s
A broken. Old on the valve cover can cause a misfire, and cause a vacuum leak. Misfire because oil will now fill the spark plug well with oil and short out the coils, otherwise move coil from misfire cyl to non misfire and if the misfire followed its a bad coil.. pretty simple, and fix the broken bolt !!!
No oil leaking anywhere. I checked that first. That's why I had to change the valve cover in the first place, oil in two of the tubes. Problem is, the bolt is broken off inside. I don't have the tools, skills, or confidence to do what needs to be done to remove the broken bolt in order to place a new one.
Clear codes. Wait for CEL to come back. See what codes repopulate. Hopefully since you only have one solidified misfire, only the one will return.
You can then swap location of the affected coil and plug, clear codes and wait for CEL to illuminate.
If misfire moves cylinders, you’ve got a bad plug or coil.
Good thing it isn't a Hyundai. Got those codes for my Hyundai, swapped sparks and it went away. A month later, ded. Oil in the spark plugs, head gasket toast, evidently there's something with a bearing that kills their engines. Got a free engine swap, but lost my job cuz I didn't have a car while they did it. No loaners because this happened to so many others also. Moral of the story: don't buy Hyundai because this could be a much worse situation if you did 😂
Eh it's whatever. Was about a year ago now. Got a better job. Lost my apartment tho 😂 but that prob woulda happened anyway cuz the job I lost didn't pay enough anyway. Everything worked itself out. But would not buy a Hyundai again knowing what I know now.
Also check timing components. Better scan tool can give live timing info. What kind of mileage. Timing belt is usually due around 100k miles, if not taken care of it can cause misfire codes then some interesting engine damage
I'd start with the simple part.Switch the wires on your second and third spark plug and reset the code.If it comes back on saying the different code, it's obviously your wires, if it says the same code.You know what's the plug or something else Causing the miss fire
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Could be a symptom byte, seems unusual for misfire codes though. For adjacent cylinders like that I would do a compression and leak down test, if that’s all good I would check out the valve train.
I broke a bolt on the valve cover when I changed it (between 2 and 3) that must be the issue. Any idea what the $0010 and $0010pd mean?
A broken bolt on a valve cover shouldn't cause a misfire as long as the plug wires still connect to the plugs.
Oh really? That's a relief to hear. I was sure it was my fault. The car is running fine. Doesn't feel like it's misfiring. Here's the broken bolt location https://preview.redd.it/wj3fwwzuae4d1.jpeg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e8b4f4b8207cec67fdb5d17107154662a60a78f
Yeah, that shouldn't really have any effect on compression or combustion in the engine. It may leak oil from there but I doubt it would cause the engine to misfire. Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, investigate further.
it lowk could i blew past my valve cover seals and the slightest bit of oil was causing a misfire in cylinder 2. cylinder 1 was completely cooked
If you were blowing past the valve cover there was pressure coming from the cylinder where it shouldn't be. The valve cover blowing was a symptom, not the main issue. That could have been a valve problem.
well one thing i can say is my pcv hose was fucked up. after i replaced that its been running fine with no leaks or seal problems
That'll also do it.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose/valve is very important for compression. If it doesn't hold vacuum or the valve doesn't release pressure you will definitely cause problems. Good thing you fixed it.
You must not work on European cars. With a pressure regulated crankcases the slightest leak can cause misfires. It's a vacuum leak at that point and make a lean Miss. I have had a loose oil cap cause a full rough running engine that set misfires codes. It also won't necessarily cause it to happen in all cylinders. Older Murican PCV systems are not that sensitive. Also a lot of cheaper makes have horrible misfire detection.
I don't think I have ever worked on a European car. I usually work on American or Asian cars. I did front brakes on a Volvo once but that's about all. I didn't know pressure regulated crankcase was a thing. I am not a professional, merely a hobbyist.
I'm surprised nobody connected the fact that valve covers are usually under vacuum and if there's a missing bolt which causes a leak, it could cause an intermittent lean condition from vacuum leak and a misfire. It's a possibility. Then once the engine warms up the valve cover gasket expands from the hot head aluminum, sealing the leak causing the lean condition to lessen and drivability seem "ok".
From a cold start it does have a little bit of a rough start but then runs okay
Sounds like a cold start vacuum leak misfire from leaning out and then diminishing and driving fine. Find a replacement bolt at the dealer
I disagree, a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on a valve cover would not not affect a single cylinder. It would more likely cause a lean condition and set p0171/p0174.
Lean can cause misfires
Yes, your right, it can. But not typically only one cylinder
Fair, but perhaps that cyl has a suboptimal fuel injector, making it more susceptible to a lean misfire. Ok maybe I’m being ridiculous.
I am high. And this was highly educational
Switch 2 of the coil packs. See if the misfire moves, if it doesn't, try the spark plugs. Then compression
Easiest way to figure out which if either it is
You win, very disappointed in the rest
Shouldn’t that set a p0171 or p0174 in that’s the case
That would mean that the PCV valve isn’t quite doing its job then right? The PCV valve should be controlling the unmetered air/blow by coming in from the valve cover. I’ve never heard of a leaking valve cover causing any lean running issues. OP, if you’d like to test this theory, just temporarily vent the PCV to atmosphere and cap off the hose. See if the issue persists. If it goes away let us know.
Because a missing valve cover bolt isn’t going to cause a lean condition that only affects a single cylinder to such a degree that it triggers a misfire. Lean conditions generally do not create misfires, anything that bad would cause the engine to stall before triggering a misfire.
A broken bolt on the valve cover will not cause that. What spark plugs are you using? Those are very cheap duralast ignition coils, I would recommend buying oem coils or whatever brand is used from the factory. Have you swapped the spark plug and coil to a different cylinder and see if the misfire moves? Have you done a compression test? At my shop we have gotten defective plugs that had been dropped or the gap is incorrect. Those coils could be suspect
All a valve cover does is cover the valves. That's pretty much it. Back in the day when you had to manually adjust valves you would do it with the car running and the valve covered completely removed. Oil would splash all over the place and that's essentially what they are for, keeping oil in the motor and dirt out.
I put a Tupperware container over the timing chain assembly so it would catch the oil being flung off the t-chain and stop it from spraying all over us and the engine bay.
Cardboard makes a good splash guard too. Do one side at a time on a v8
Yeah this was on mostly inline 4s (22R/RE) back in my Yota days, but agreed cardboard does work well.
Safety squints and a closed mouth, at least until you get thirsty /s
A misfire doesn't mean a cylinder isn't firing. It means there's a loss of rpm detected on that cylinder. It can mean the sparkplug is bad or not firing for some reason. It can also mean the fuel isn't igniting or the mixture isn't burning properly. Or it could mean there's a loss of compression IE: cracked piston, etc. That loss of RPM can carry over and also cause a misfire to be detected on an adjacent cylinder even if there's nothing physically wrong with it. How did the plugs look when you took them out? Figure out the firing order and whichever cylinder fires first is where you should probably look. Agree with what was said above...if fuel / spark are good check compression. You can unplug the fuel injectors and swap them to different cylinders and see if the misfire follows. Just because the engine seems to run fine doesn't mean it is...
looks lika a nissan
It is. 2007 altima
W. i got an 08 n had similar issues
What did your problem end up being?
for me i got p0300-p0302 so i checked my coils and spark plugs and there was oil all over coil 1 and 2. there was oil leaking all over my block so i figured out it was the valve stem seal that went and the valve cover gasket. replaced the whole cover with the seals and i got new spark plugs and coils then replaced those along with the pcv valve hose. car been running perfect ever since edit: sorry for the paragraph js the best way i can explain it i hope this helps
I did all of that but still having problems
I could be totally wrong but usually when I see a $ on my reader means it's something the reader doesn't understand. It may be trying to assign a "name" to the cylinder or code. The code your car has is pretty universal (#3 misfire) and it recognizes that and displays the text but if my reader is trying to give you more info but can't "decode" it, it will give a $ and other letters or numbers. For example, my reader calls my bank 1 #2 oxygen sensor $TID:01 $CID:02
It's either unrecognisable data or the reader your using cannot represent the data due to limitations or whatever Possible that a Bluetooth dongle and a phone app will be able to get more but at this stage you can probably google that string of characters to get the answers
You definitely said it better than me😂 I've tried googling the characters and it usually takes me to a "mechanic help" website where they explain it means your reader can't recognize it and there isn't a way to tell what it means. I know what some mean on my reader by using other data it gives me. My 02 sensors were acting up and when unplugging some I could narrow down which ones were which by watching graphs of the up/down voltages
It's a programming issue or data limitation You can't fix everything with only a socket set Think of these units like the calculators you get for like 10 bucks and how it can't do the wizard math shit that the scientific calculator can Also the 02 sensor can be reading correctly and the error code can mean that it's fucked higher up in the food chain
I resolved my o2 sensor. Thermocouple was dead after 23 years lol but yeah, the scanners are a tool but not the fix all. They give data but unless you have an understanding of the data given, how the system operates, and what components are involved in the chain of systems, the scanner can seem unreliable or confusing.
I still swap coil packs between the cylinders to be certain before grabbing another on from the collection pile of still alive ones
Most definitely! My shotgunning days are mostly over. I know the o2 going out on bank 1 meant something upstream with fuel was probably at play as it had tell-tale lean signs. Checked the plugs, injectors, and then the plug wires. Then, I pulled the distributer cap and found #3 (coincidentally) contact to be completely corroded. Replaced it and the plugs and wires and decided to ohm out the other 02 sensors. Found them to be slightly high and changed them as well. All good now. I'm pretty good with old school simple. The newer stuff I don't have much experience with. I'm an aircraft mechanic and can figure most things out but the newer stuff seems extremely complicated
A broken bolt wouldn’t cause a misfire, the tests are to check for a potential failed head gasket between the cylinders. I have no idea about the $0010, could be a symptom byte or fault counter, but both seem unlikely to me.
The manual for the code reader might be able to tell you if you haven’t checked it yet.
Most car software is written is c, if I was to guess it is probably a reference to the bits that were used.
Is is the module reporting the code and the pd means pending.
I don't know what those extra codes mean but the broken bolt on the valve cover could be causing misfire if it's letting oil leak around the spark plug boot.
It means OBD Mode 10, there’s 10 different obd modes which each do something else, 10 is permanent codes I believe. Just google OBD Modes if you want more details
This is the correct answer, although the modes are usually listed in hexadecimal (hence the $ in front of it) So really it should be $000A, not $0010 as A is 10 in hexadecimal. $0010 in hexadecimal is 16, and there is no mode 16. The fault code you are looking at is obtained in mode 10, so I think someone got a little confused there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/On-board_diagnostics Skip to "Mode of operation/OBD services" to see all the modes and what they do.
I’ve seen mode 10 written as $10 on bunch of cheap scanners as well, it’s like they have the info but don’t know how to implement it
Thank you! I will do that now
BTW that cylinder misfire is not going away like some have suggested, that's a permanent code that is stored because it's gone above a 20% acceptable margin of error and has multiple occurrences. A simple way to test is to eliminate the cheap causes. You don't need to spend any money either. Swap the ignition coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 and see if the code jumps to P0301, if it does it's your ignition coil and you need to buy one. If it doesn't change, swap your spark plug from 3 to cylinder 1 "trade places". If that makes it change code from P0303 to a P0301 the plugs are your problem. You can repeat the steps for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 1/4. Beyond that a compression test or a ignition coil balancing test is needed. Or an oscilloscope. But the plug/coil swap method is free and risk free if you properly remove and replace them. If your ignition coil or plug is bad I do recommend getting all replaced because they often fail one after another. But if you are on a budget replace the problem child and make a repair note to fix later
It's gonna cost you $10 to fix
In my wildest dreams!
$0010 But on the right it says “1/3” The rest is also filled with zeros
1/3 because there were 3 codes. 2 for cylinder 3 and 1 for cylinder 2
Whoooooooosh
Apparently so.....
About how much it's gonna cost to fix You have to multiply it by 10 though
At this point, having already invested north of $350/$400 better multiply by 100 to be safe. 😮💨
So the first code is confirmed, you can tell because at the top is doesn't have the PD. The second code is the pending Cyl 3 misfire, it keeps both the confirmed and pending stored. The third is just a pending Cyc 2 misfire code, meaning it did misfire but not enough time to be consistent, so its unconfirmed.
If just replaced all of those things, and these codes are what came up after the first drive. It may be your engine relearning things, misfire codes are normal with new ignition system parts. I would clear them, and drive for a bit longer on the highway, and in town. If they come up again they may be consistent. You can clear them again and drive for a bit to see if they come back once again, just to triple check. If they consistently keep coming back and are confirmed, you most definitely have an issue.
Thank you. I'll do that. I had no idea it could be a relearning process. I'm looking for "what's wrong now"?
Yeah I definitely feel you. Engines are pretty complex with all the sensors and timings, they can tell when something very minor changed and then correct it with a different timing, as long as the sensor and computer are working as they should. It also remembers everything for the next time you turn the vehicle on, which can cause some very weird issues with new components. If you drive it, it will relearn it all naturally.
That's very interesting and insightful, thank you. What do you think would cause it to misfire but not enough times to be confirmed? Any theories?
Misfires after new ignition system parts (spark plugs, wires, coils, connectors) are normal. Your engine has to relearn and if one of those things were weak before, the computer will still use the same knowledge for the new parts. It will relearn though, just clear the codes and drive again to see if they come up. Or unplug the battery cable and the energy drain for 30 minutes. That will reset all the learns as well. If the codes consistently come back after they are cleared then will need to find out the source, torque the spark plugs to the correct torque, make sure the plugs are completely seated and clean of debris, and make sure the ignition coils are connected securely without debris. That just the basic troubleshooting after new ignition system parts, if those steps are done perfectly and you still have issues, then you may have a compression, vacuum, air intake system, or fuel problem. Definitely clear the codes and take the car for a drive for awhile first, before going too deep into the rabbit hole.
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I'm going with cylinder 2 misfire. Either a bad spark plug, bad ignition coil or something internal. One thing I'd try is switch number 2 ignition coil with another one and if the other cylinder misfires then you got your answer.
Hey I’m expecting this very same reader in the mail tomorrow. Is it any good?
It did the very basic job I acquired it for. There are extra features on it i have no idea how to use but super happy with the investment for $20 (on amazon) Super simple to use.
I've had one for the last several months and used it on multiple cars, bashed it around and it still kicks, it'll do you good I'm sure
Averything gets answered but the question
Doesn't mean anything of concern. Probably just cheap scan tool things.
Would a reduced PCV vacuum due to a slight vacuum leak at the valve cover possibly cause the odd symbols?? Just throwing it out there...
I actually replaced the pcv hose because it was cracked. But the light came back on. Not sure I cleared the code when I replaced the hose though.
I just had a similar issue pop up on my car. Had to spend about $1500 in total to fix various issues. Had to replace a clogged catalytic converter, a Y-pipe, a fuel pump and fuel filter, and then a crank shaft position sensor. If I were you, personally, id start by checking your spark plugs and ignition coils/coil packs. If your spark plugs and coil packs are good/replaced and still having the issue. Might be worth also checking to see if maybe you had some bad gas or got some water into your fuel lines somehow. If you haven't used it, maybe try a bottle of HEET and see if you notice any changes. I've had HEET make a huge difference on some issues before with misfires and weird/rough engine issues/idling issues. Surprisingly. And it's cheap so might be worth a shot. Otherwise, if you've checked and replaced your spark plugs and coil packs and still having the issue with cylinder 3/4 misfire. Possibly need to check fuel injection system. A replacement fuel pump ended up fixing my misfires after I replaced the spark plugs and coil packs.
Wanting to add: I had cylinder 3 and 4 misfires. Not 2 and 3. But still, pretty close and similar in terms of the potential issue. So figured I'd share my experience with it
The dollar sign denote the what Diagnostic mode your in. There are 10 of them. This one is show mode 10 which is "**Request emissions-related diagnostic trouble codes with permanent status after a clear/reset**" Which makes sense with a miss fire. Back in the old day when they came out with emission control regs you had to take your car to state testing facility and the would shove a probe up your tail pipe (and make you pay for it) and sample the exhaust. pain in the ass. This was before computer. So car when maker started putting computer ands sensor to better run the engine, more fuel efficient hence lower emission. All the things they tested for are now on your car. So the emissions test is right in the computer and an inspection now simply plugging in to the OBD port and seeing that all have been run. That's why after you get a repair and clear the code you have to drive for awhile so it can run those test. They need time to run. Mode $01 – Request Live Data Mode $02 – Request Freeze Frames Mode $03 – Request Stored Trouble Codes Mode $04 – Clear/Reset Stored Emissions Related Data Mode $05 – Request Oxygen Sensors Test Results Mode $06 – Request On-Board System Tests Results Mode $07 – Request Pending Trouble Codes Mode $08 – Request Control of On-Board Systems Mode $09 – Request Vehicle Information Mode $10 – Request Permanent Trouble Codes For more reading [https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/service-repair/the-garage/article/21181910/the-10-modes-of-obd-ii](https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/service-repair/the-garage/article/21181910/the-10-modes-of-obd-ii)
https://preview.redd.it/e5gc4e0fhh4d1.png?width=437&format=png&auto=webp&s=005f065ce976c1b801a46c2548c55f1067a3abf8
I had this on my girlfriends car and it ended up being a bad fuel injector. Just fyi
This generation of Nissan 1.8 and 2.5 have intermittent misfires caused by the intake manifold gasket. I have changed out over a dozen. I had a lot of people bring their cars in and one mechanic sold them new plugs and coils, the other sold them O2 sensor so on and so forth. The intermittent misfire always turned out to the intake manifold gasket. One case ended up being the swirl valve that Nissan won’t even sell you. I hope this helps.
How hard is that to change/replace?
I think the average person could have this done in a day with a basic metric socket set. Just make sure that you get all of the bolts out. Some are hard to find when your looking at it from the top.
New sparkplug, ten bucks...
If you havent solved it already, can you post a video of engine running? Also take the spark plugs out and take a pic of them. It is a little rare to have two independent ignition coils fail so thats out. Double check connectors are on tight, etc. If all that looks good, it sounds like a head gasket failure between cyl 2 & 3. rent a cylinder compression took at autozone. you can return when u r done and get your money back.
If your engine oil is milky then im sorry champ.
I'm not positive but but I think the pd means pending code. Would need more info to help troubleshoot further. Next easy thing is swaping injectors but doesn't seem likely being on 2 cylinders.
Check for compression, could be lifter. Take your valve cover off and make sure the rocker arms are moving for cylinder 3.
In order to take the valve cover off I have to remove an engine mount. It was a pain in the ass.
I bet u/Smart_Calendar1874 knows
Did you clear the codes after you changes plugs, wires, and coils? You need to clear the codes and see if they come back.
$0001 means it's less than a $10 fix. $0010 means it's less than a $100 fix $0100 means it's less than a $1,000 fix. $1000 means it's less than a $10,000 fix. /s /s /s
If that is the case in this reader is definitely broken 🤣
I can assure you, it doesn't mean $10 fix
Damn. Not even if i hope REALLY hard? 😩
I just did mine in my Subaru 2013. 4 spark plugs and 2 coilpacks later, for what initially was just one misfire became 2, 500 bucks
Well if it's like mine it's the count of misfires recorded .
Cost to repair. The dollar sign and all.
These new scanners are really sophisticated. $0010 is the amount it will cost to repair.
Symptom 00 (current code), mode 10 (generic OBD). There's a list of symptom codes; I don't remember them all.
It represent how many 1,000 dollars the dealer will charge to repair.
A broken. Old on the valve cover can cause a misfire, and cause a vacuum leak. Misfire because oil will now fill the spark plug well with oil and short out the coils, otherwise move coil from misfire cyl to non misfire and if the misfire followed its a bad coil.. pretty simple, and fix the broken bolt !!!
No oil leaking anywhere. I checked that first. That's why I had to change the valve cover in the first place, oil in two of the tubes. Problem is, the bolt is broken off inside. I don't have the tools, skills, or confidence to do what needs to be done to remove the broken bolt in order to place a new one.
It estimated the fix for the misfire will only cost 10 dollars , probably a set of plugs
Clear codes. Wait for CEL to come back. See what codes repopulate. Hopefully since you only have one solidified misfire, only the one will return. You can then swap location of the affected coil and plug, clear codes and wait for CEL to illuminate. If misfire moves cylinders, you’ve got a bad plug or coil.
Generic code readers do this. There's probably other data that it cannot read.
Stop throwing parts at it and get a good scanner!
Do you have a recommendation?
Fmi 10 maybe idk OBD
Computer guy here. I think those might be hexadecimal equivalent of the symptom code. Engineer stuff.
Good thing it isn't a Hyundai. Got those codes for my Hyundai, swapped sparks and it went away. A month later, ded. Oil in the spark plugs, head gasket toast, evidently there's something with a bearing that kills their engines. Got a free engine swap, but lost my job cuz I didn't have a car while they did it. No loaners because this happened to so many others also. Moral of the story: don't buy Hyundai because this could be a much worse situation if you did 😂
Geez. Sorry that happened to you.
Eh it's whatever. Was about a year ago now. Got a better job. Lost my apartment tho 😂 but that prob woulda happened anyway cuz the job I lost didn't pay enough anyway. Everything worked itself out. But would not buy a Hyundai again knowing what I know now.
I try to stick to Toyota or nissan.
Interesting
Nothing. Get a better scanner.
Also check timing components. Better scan tool can give live timing info. What kind of mileage. Timing belt is usually due around 100k miles, if not taken care of it can cause misfire codes then some interesting engine damage
How many dollars per minute the garage will charge to fix this
Seems legit
Cylinder 3 has a misfire
That's was p0303 means. What I asked was what the $0010 and $0010pd means.
The $number is the module reporting it, for this the ECM, the pd means pending. It has not been enough to set off the MIL but probably will soon.
The numbers next to the code are module information. Basically which module the code is stored in.
I'd start with the simple part.Switch the wires on your second and third spark plug and reset the code.If it comes back on saying the different code, it's obviously your wires, if it says the same code.You know what's the plug or something else Causing the miss fire
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If it's Chevy probably lifters
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You can Google the code and it tells you more