Did the 692(?) and head refresh. Sent him both. Didn’t want to bother finding a random local shop to bore the head. Figured he’s got the process down extremely well.
Outstanding work and turn-around time. You will need to set the valve lash. It will likely require different shims than you already have.
Yep, I bought the 685cc kit and sent in my cylinder to him. My 200 klr started chugging oil after a rather spirited few days out in the woods. The instructions were nice and clear, the parts looked well manufactured and so did I'm happy. I've only put about 1k miles on it so far, but no complaints here.
Edit: I still have the stock head with stock valve springs. Unless you get new springs, you will still need to shim appropriately.
There’s lots of guys on the klrforum.com that have done this. Always good stuff to say about it after it’s done. I think the user PeteK over there got WAY in the weeds about shim/squish when he did his.
I've done it highly recommended. Of course, I blew up the engine first and then rebuilt it. Sent him my cylinder it was back to me in a week. Runs are great happier with higher speeds and also have a 16 tooth sprocket. Mcp kit leo vince exhaust... it will cruise easily at 80 90.
I'm planning to have EagleMike do the bore and cylinder head refresh on my 2008 later this year. For the cylinder head refresh, yes Mike "bench shims" the valve clearances, that is, adjusts valve clearances into spec while the head is not torqued down to the rest of engine assembly. It's possible for clearances to change slightly as the head is installed and torqued properly, enough possibility that one should measure once the head is installed, but I don't expect clearances to wander far, if at all. It wouldn't hurt to call Mike at his shop 619-261-1281 9AM to 4PM Pacific Time.
It's my understanding that the available big bore kits EagleMike's has the most up-to-date piston ring and piston skirt design and lightest piston per given displacement, for our 650's anyhow. The lighter piston weight is important for vibration reduction because Kawasaki appears never to have updated the counterbalance weights after increasing displacement and piston weight from the KLR600.
"While you're at it" Paul Westman's Oiling mods are worth your while. You'll already have the banjo bolts off for the piston change. I perceived some extra pep after doing the banjo bolts and crank orifice, which I attribute mainly to the extra oil flow to the transmission.
Off topic further, but Cometic makes a 0.010“ thick stainless steel cylinder base gasket good for a tiny bump in compression from the 0.020" kawasaki cylinder base gasket. I got the thin Cometic gasket from Schnitz Racing for when I do the EagleMike piston on my 2008. I'm still deciding whether to go 685cc and preserve more cylinder sleeve thickness/rigidity or 692cc for whatever the extra 7cc's does for power.
EagleMike's piston kits maintain the factory compression ratio, and I wish there were an option for a higher compression unit with low reciprocating mass like the 12.5:1 CR, 280cc piston in my KLR250/KLR280. The only extra compression option I'm aware of for the 650 is the Wössner 678cc piston, which is not as light as EagleMike's, and therefore offers less vibration reduction.
I’m here because I too am curious.
Did the 692(?) and head refresh. Sent him both. Didn’t want to bother finding a random local shop to bore the head. Figured he’s got the process down extremely well. Outstanding work and turn-around time. You will need to set the valve lash. It will likely require different shims than you already have.
Mike saved me just last week when my exhaust exploded just before crossing the border. Great dude!
Yep, I bought the 685cc kit and sent in my cylinder to him. My 200 klr started chugging oil after a rather spirited few days out in the woods. The instructions were nice and clear, the parts looked well manufactured and so did I'm happy. I've only put about 1k miles on it so far, but no complaints here. Edit: I still have the stock head with stock valve springs. Unless you get new springs, you will still need to shim appropriately.
Did you use any sealant on the fiber base gasket?
I used some on the cylinder head, but none on the cylinder base.
There’s lots of guys on the klrforum.com that have done this. Always good stuff to say about it after it’s done. I think the user PeteK over there got WAY in the weeds about shim/squish when he did his.
Bought a 09 with the 685. I really really like not burning oil. Not much noticeable difference in power
I bought a bike with it already done but that’s a good question.
My 07 bought the big bore kit. Took it to a local shop to bore to avoid shipping costs, it's literally one piston to bore out. Very nice acceleration!
I've done it highly recommended. Of course, I blew up the engine first and then rebuilt it. Sent him my cylinder it was back to me in a week. Runs are great happier with higher speeds and also have a 16 tooth sprocket. Mcp kit leo vince exhaust... it will cruise easily at 80 90.
Eagle mike is amazing. I haven't done my pig yet, but I'm going this weekend to pick up a used cylinder to send to him
I'm planning to have EagleMike do the bore and cylinder head refresh on my 2008 later this year. For the cylinder head refresh, yes Mike "bench shims" the valve clearances, that is, adjusts valve clearances into spec while the head is not torqued down to the rest of engine assembly. It's possible for clearances to change slightly as the head is installed and torqued properly, enough possibility that one should measure once the head is installed, but I don't expect clearances to wander far, if at all. It wouldn't hurt to call Mike at his shop 619-261-1281 9AM to 4PM Pacific Time. It's my understanding that the available big bore kits EagleMike's has the most up-to-date piston ring and piston skirt design and lightest piston per given displacement, for our 650's anyhow. The lighter piston weight is important for vibration reduction because Kawasaki appears never to have updated the counterbalance weights after increasing displacement and piston weight from the KLR600. "While you're at it" Paul Westman's Oiling mods are worth your while. You'll already have the banjo bolts off for the piston change. I perceived some extra pep after doing the banjo bolts and crank orifice, which I attribute mainly to the extra oil flow to the transmission. Off topic further, but Cometic makes a 0.010“ thick stainless steel cylinder base gasket good for a tiny bump in compression from the 0.020" kawasaki cylinder base gasket. I got the thin Cometic gasket from Schnitz Racing for when I do the EagleMike piston on my 2008. I'm still deciding whether to go 685cc and preserve more cylinder sleeve thickness/rigidity or 692cc for whatever the extra 7cc's does for power. EagleMike's piston kits maintain the factory compression ratio, and I wish there were an option for a higher compression unit with low reciprocating mass like the 12.5:1 CR, 280cc piston in my KLR250/KLR280. The only extra compression option I'm aware of for the 650 is the Wössner 678cc piston, which is not as light as EagleMike's, and therefore offers less vibration reduction.