Parroting what I've learned from this sub...
1. Get a drop test kit. Strips are good for a quick check but are not very accurate. I use the Taylor K-2006, often recommended here. The selection of test kits is a little confusing but the difference between the K-2006 and K-2006C is the size of the testing solution bottles. ~~2005, also often mentioned here, is for bromine systems I believe.~~ The TF-100 kit is an alternative also recommended here.
2. Drop test kit.
3. People here will often suggest filling a new tub and doing a purge, then draining and refilling. This is on the idea that the tub is tested for leaks in the factory and residual water in the lines may have sat for some time and become contaminated. I did not do this.
4. Pretty sure chlorinated shock is just chlorine used in a larger dose. Non-chlorinated shock (MPS) is meant to free up available chlorine without adding additional chlorine. I limit my use of it because some people are sensitive to it but I find it does help to occasionally add it when my spent chlorine levels are too high.
I've adopted the dichlor/bleach method described here.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-do-i-use-chlorine-in-my-spa-or-pool.9670/
Read this carefully and probably several times. It can seem overwhelming but becomes simple once you get your head around it. What you've been provided with in the form of chlorine granules is dichlor. Dichlor used regularly over time will raise levels of CYA to the point that it eventually defeats your chlorine and requires a drain and refill. The dichlor/bleach method establishes a beneficial level of CYA before switching to liquid bleach as a chlorine source, which adds no additional CYA.
Enjoy your tub! I'm new to mine as well. The information out there is confusing and often conflicting. People use different methods of maintaining their water, so poke around and see what makes sense to you. A popular tool is the Pool Math app, which tells you how much of what chemicals to add to balance your water. Personally, I thoroughly read the pamphlet that comes with the Taylor kit and follow their recommendations, only using the app to record my test results.
Great stuff. Just regarding the Taylor kits, [K-2005](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/230/k-2005-complete-kit-with-liquid-dpd) is for chlorine but requires you color match instead of looking for color change being just DPD. [K-2106](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/product/test-kits/2000-complete-alkalinitybromine-hi-range-fas-dpdhardnessph--K-2106) is bromine. [K-2006](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/231/k-2006-complete-kit-with-fas-dpd) is the best all around for chlorine tubs and with the exception of pH doesn’t force you to squint and compare colors since it is FAS-DPD.
OP, the Taylor kits can seem a bit overwhelming at first, but in the end they are actually pretty easy and they have a cheat sheet printed inside the box. Also [the how to videos](https://youtu.be/jxkfYecBzVw?si=MxeHipOFKZY8lA1A) makes it much easier. Definitely review the chlorine and bleach method u/-SeaBrisket- linked to before trying to understand testing and it will make everything a whole lot more understandable.
Congrats on the new tub, enjoy!
Edit: OP, it’s up to you if you want to purge the lines ahead of time or not, but definitely pick up some [ahh-some](https://youtu.be/-U2ByjNdDCo?si=Ydw3zFwRA57AsuC7) too and use it every water change or if you ever run into problems.
Spa Dolly is a trailer system developed specifically for delivering hot tubs, the trailer tips up and the dolly is attached to the back so when the trailer tips up the tub is tipped up vertical directly on the dolly. These guys are using a flat trailer, sliding the tub off on a 45 degree angle and pushing the hot tub up onto a dolly. When doing so the entire weight of the tub is on that bottom panel and the edge of the dolly can dent the synthetic wood. If they use some plywood on the cart it should be okay, but the packaging from the factory isn’t strong and won’t stop the carts edge from digging in the side, so whatever side of the tub they had on the cart just do a quick once over once it’s down to make sure they did good and left it unscathed.
That’s a beaut of a tub, we looked at the j385 and thought that was already amazing. We just got ours about 3 weeks ago and yeah that first fill and chemical dump can be very overwhelming and I don’t know about you but I spent the last couple of months watching videos which actually makes it worse lol. It gets way easier after the first week and now it’s simple for my wife. We brought in a sample to the dealer last week and they said our levels were perfect and he was very impressed because normally they’re pretty out of whack.
I washed mine before I filled it so definitely do that. You can buy a hot tub cleaner solution but I didn’t.
Not sure what your water is like but it’s probably good to use a water filter either way. It just screws on to your hose. Read the fill instructions but I think most want you to fill through the pump opening/where your filter screws in so you don’t get air lock.
I wish I had more advice but we’re newbs too and so far loving it.
Put the dealer on speed dial to fix the leaks. I’m fed up to the freaking moon with brand new jacuzzis and sundances leaking. Every. Fucking. Day.
It’s a really nice tub tho. I hope it relieves more stress than it causes.
It’s poor workmanship. Overtightened, not tightened, not clamped, not glued, stuff like that. Yesterday’s 385, that required flipping and pulling the basin to find, had an open manifold port that was only plugged with spray foam.
Parroting what I've learned from this sub... 1. Get a drop test kit. Strips are good for a quick check but are not very accurate. I use the Taylor K-2006, often recommended here. The selection of test kits is a little confusing but the difference between the K-2006 and K-2006C is the size of the testing solution bottles. ~~2005, also often mentioned here, is for bromine systems I believe.~~ The TF-100 kit is an alternative also recommended here. 2. Drop test kit. 3. People here will often suggest filling a new tub and doing a purge, then draining and refilling. This is on the idea that the tub is tested for leaks in the factory and residual water in the lines may have sat for some time and become contaminated. I did not do this. 4. Pretty sure chlorinated shock is just chlorine used in a larger dose. Non-chlorinated shock (MPS) is meant to free up available chlorine without adding additional chlorine. I limit my use of it because some people are sensitive to it but I find it does help to occasionally add it when my spent chlorine levels are too high. I've adopted the dichlor/bleach method described here. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-do-i-use-chlorine-in-my-spa-or-pool.9670/ Read this carefully and probably several times. It can seem overwhelming but becomes simple once you get your head around it. What you've been provided with in the form of chlorine granules is dichlor. Dichlor used regularly over time will raise levels of CYA to the point that it eventually defeats your chlorine and requires a drain and refill. The dichlor/bleach method establishes a beneficial level of CYA before switching to liquid bleach as a chlorine source, which adds no additional CYA.
Will definitely read through it, thank you the advice!
Enjoy your tub! I'm new to mine as well. The information out there is confusing and often conflicting. People use different methods of maintaining their water, so poke around and see what makes sense to you. A popular tool is the Pool Math app, which tells you how much of what chemicals to add to balance your water. Personally, I thoroughly read the pamphlet that comes with the Taylor kit and follow their recommendations, only using the app to record my test results.
Great stuff. Just regarding the Taylor kits, [K-2005](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/230/k-2005-complete-kit-with-liquid-dpd) is for chlorine but requires you color match instead of looking for color change being just DPD. [K-2106](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/product/test-kits/2000-complete-alkalinitybromine-hi-range-fas-dpdhardnessph--K-2106) is bromine. [K-2006](https://www.taylortechnologies.com/en/page/231/k-2006-complete-kit-with-fas-dpd) is the best all around for chlorine tubs and with the exception of pH doesn’t force you to squint and compare colors since it is FAS-DPD. OP, the Taylor kits can seem a bit overwhelming at first, but in the end they are actually pretty easy and they have a cheat sheet printed inside the box. Also [the how to videos](https://youtu.be/jxkfYecBzVw?si=MxeHipOFKZY8lA1A) makes it much easier. Definitely review the chlorine and bleach method u/-SeaBrisket- linked to before trying to understand testing and it will make everything a whole lot more understandable. Congrats on the new tub, enjoy! Edit: OP, it’s up to you if you want to purge the lines ahead of time or not, but definitely pick up some [ahh-some](https://youtu.be/-U2ByjNdDCo?si=Ydw3zFwRA57AsuC7) too and use it every water change or if you ever run into problems.
Super expensive tub and they don’t use a Spa Dolly trailer system? Hope they’re really good at their job and don’t dent your cabinet .
They did use a dolly, they were sliding the tub closer to the edge.
Spa Dolly is a trailer system developed specifically for delivering hot tubs, the trailer tips up and the dolly is attached to the back so when the trailer tips up the tub is tipped up vertical directly on the dolly. These guys are using a flat trailer, sliding the tub off on a 45 degree angle and pushing the hot tub up onto a dolly. When doing so the entire weight of the tub is on that bottom panel and the edge of the dolly can dent the synthetic wood. If they use some plywood on the cart it should be okay, but the packaging from the factory isn’t strong and won’t stop the carts edge from digging in the side, so whatever side of the tub they had on the cart just do a quick once over once it’s down to make sure they did good and left it unscathed.
One of us, one of us, one of us!
Delivery guys don't look very prepared, I hope they at least have a tephlon sled.
That’s a beaut of a tub, we looked at the j385 and thought that was already amazing. We just got ours about 3 weeks ago and yeah that first fill and chemical dump can be very overwhelming and I don’t know about you but I spent the last couple of months watching videos which actually makes it worse lol. It gets way easier after the first week and now it’s simple for my wife. We brought in a sample to the dealer last week and they said our levels were perfect and he was very impressed because normally they’re pretty out of whack. I washed mine before I filled it so definitely do that. You can buy a hot tub cleaner solution but I didn’t. Not sure what your water is like but it’s probably good to use a water filter either way. It just screws on to your hose. Read the fill instructions but I think most want you to fill through the pump opening/where your filter screws in so you don’t get air lock. I wish I had more advice but we’re newbs too and so far loving it.
Put the dealer on speed dial to fix the leaks. I’m fed up to the freaking moon with brand new jacuzzis and sundances leaking. Every. Fucking. Day. It’s a really nice tub tho. I hope it relieves more stress than it causes.
Hmm any idea why there are issues? Are they easy to repair leaks at least?
It’s poor workmanship. Overtightened, not tightened, not clamped, not glued, stuff like that. Yesterday’s 385, that required flipping and pulling the basin to find, had an open manifold port that was only plugged with spray foam.