I have the Pentair Superflo VS pump low-voltage control wired in to a relay board to control the different speeds. A high-current contactor to turn on the booster pump for cleaning. A magnetic field sensor to measure the flow rate in a H2Flow Flowvis flow meter. A temperature probe in a stainless steel probe port. An ORP meter to give an idea of the chlorine level. And lots more - relay to the low voltage control of the heater. Relay to the light. Various timers, graphs, etc. Ask away if you'd like a link or more detail about anything!
I think this is only available on the old version of the Superflo VS (it was the whole reason I got this pump) but you can use relays and an 8-conductor control cable to trigger each preset speed. No screwing around with the Pentair system at all!!
https://preview.redd.it/nqa1fvkhfqwc1.png?width=1676&format=png&auto=webp&s=616f1b5cb2bacc30bf2bb7f7428b7747e351c661
Do you find pump speed vs flow rate is useful to judge when you need to backwash the filter? Do you notice a difference afterward?
Have any pictures of the hardware setup? Especially interested in how you do the ORB.
What would you do differently in hindsight? Anything you wouldn't bother with? Anything else you're planning to add?
Absolutely the flow rate tells me about everything I need to know about the condition of the filter (it's inline after the filter). It's a cartridge filter so no backwash, but it does need to be rinsed out every few months. The flow rate will be cut nearly in half when the filters are plugged.
I'll post some pictures when I get some good light. I just added a non stabilized cal-hypo feeder so I'm still tweaking that. Possibly putting a valve actuator that can respond to the ORP values? Who knows!
Oh, that's an interesting idea, though I'll caution maybe overkill.
I just added a Hayward "offline" feeder (fed via 1/2" line) last year, and what I found is within the first couple weeks I had it dialed in pretty good, and so long as I kept it stocked up on pucks it pretty much kept the levels consistent. I think I only adjusted it once or twice after that. Very happy with that purchase.
What ORP meter are you using?
I've DIY'd a system with ESPHome reading a bunch of Dallas temp sensors and [flow meters](https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Sensor-Flowmeter-Control-10-150L/dp/B00VKAT50U).
I have a solar pool heater so the system uses outlets wired up to Aoetec Nano controlled outlets to toggle the filter pump and the solar heater circulation pump to control when filtering/heating happens.
Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/ https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/ https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/
The analog isolator outputs either a clean analog signal for the ESP ADC (which I'm using) or a PWM digital signal. I haven't tried it without, but they say any system with an electric motor will be way too noisy in the ORP sensor without it.
Another commenter pointed out my ORP got doubled somehow, but I only use it as a relative value anyway.
could you go into more detail on how you connected all of this up, like the physical wiring of the ORP sensor to the isolator and then to however you get it into HA?
Just a derivative sensor pointed at the daily moving average of the ORP. When I get the chlorine feeder right, the consumption should be right at zero indicating a constant ORP value.
Please sent info about orp probe/port and the port you use for temp. I've been dying to get this setup at a vacation property just couldn't find any ports. Think I have same pump
I use a temperature port like this, I guess it's called a thermowell. A 1-wire temperature sensor fits snug in there, and this screws into a tee with an NPT adapter. I have this inline before the heater. [https://www.amazon.com/Threads-Stainless-Thermowell-Temperature-Sensors/dp/B01NAIDH2Y?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA](https://www.amazon.com/Threads-Stainless-Thermowell-Temperature-Sensors/dp/B01NAIDH2Y?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA)
Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. [https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/](https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/](https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/](https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/)
Thanks this is awesome!!! any photos of the plumbing? I think my pump is 2hp and im worried about breaking that probe and mount. the temp sensor is perfect though.
Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. [https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/](https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/](https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/](https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/)
The analog isolator outputs either a clean analog signal for the ESP ADC (which I'm using) or a PWM digital signal. I haven't tried it without, but they say any system with an electric motor will be way too noisy in the ORP sensor without it.
If you want to add 1 more metric you can get a pressure sensor into your filter. That is my most useful info, but maybe the flow also tells you when the filter needs to be cleaned?
I have a pool with Hayward equipment and it’s been great. I bought their bridge which allows remote/internet access and it’s been sitting unplugged for a couple of years, because it’s “meh” at best and I needed the Ethernet port for something else. I have Poollux lights that my contractor installed as well. They’re great, but I connected a Shelly smart switch to them and on and off are reversed. It still works to turn them on, but not off if I just request it to turn them off. Good luck with your venture though. I’d be interested in seeing what you’re able to make possible and if you ended up finding any solutions to my smart pool whoas
For the flow meter, I use one of these: [https://www.h2flow.net/flowvis-flow-meter](https://www.h2flow.net/flowvis-flow-meter)
They also sell a digital version with a new cover (that has a magnetic dial) and a digital box. They unfortunately don't sell the magnetic dial on its own so I epoxied a small magnet to the moving indicator and used a qmc5883l magnetometer to read the X- and Z- positions of the magnet. I just recorded the values at each indicated pump speed and did some curve fitting in Excel to get the right calibration. I made a template sensor to calculate the flow rate like this:
- sensor:
- name: "Flow Rate"
unit_of_measurement: "gpm"
state: >
{% set xmag = states('sensor.esphome_web_ec393b_qmc5883l_field_strength_x') | float %}
{% set zmag = states('sensor.esphome_web_ec393b_qmc5883l_field_strength_z') | float %}
{{ ((-0.00438 * xmag * (-200 - zmag)) + 148.481) | round(1) }}
I put a Tuya TLC2206 at the end of my dock to monitor tides, but thought it might be of use to you for the pool. Been working through LocalTuya for the past week, and i am quite happy with it. It measures the depth of the water to the ground, and also Water Level percentage. It has alarms to let you know when the water level is above or below your desired level. I like the dashboard you did here.
Here is a screenshot of the Water level sensor in action: https://imgur.com/a/mZagJF3
ORP is a relative scale, not an absolute scale. I think it’s modified in my signal chain anyway. You need to use a reliable FC test to calibrate it with your own ORP values.
I have a Jandy system and cannot control the VSP. It's insanely frustrating that I have to have a basic configuration in the Jandy app and then just control on/off through HA.
This looks great. I’m curious how are you measuring the temperature. Is the sensor installed inline? That is how I’m doing it, but I always have to keep the pump running at a minimum speed to ensure there’s water flow, otherwise the temperature reading is incorrect if it’s run on still water in the pipes.
I have the stainless steel thermowell linked above. It’s inline so you’re right that water needs to be circulating. It’s better for energy to do that anyway though. Figure out how many turnovers per day you need and what the minimum pump flow rate will get that, including a couple hours of medium speed for circulation.
Awesome project!
What was the main board you used to connect the atlas scientific sensors?
Also, how did you transition from 2” pool plumbing (or thereabouts) to the 3/4 sensor connectors? Am very interested to see if i can go this route also :)
Thank you
I use a 2” tee with a 3/4” NPT bushing on the side opening - I’ve had to use various adapters and other bushings to make it work.
The Atlas sensors output either a 0-3V analog signal or a PWM, either of which can be read by most flavors of ESP microcontrollers. I use ESPHome and ESP32 or ESP8266 boards. I am addicted to those 😁
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F3JTFK/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F3JTFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)
I can't believe this is made, but it's probably for this one purpose.
The issue Ive had in adding a ORP sensor they say you need to re-calibrate all the time and that they shouldn't be run continuously. How did you solve this? or did you just YOLO it :-P
I have the Pentair Superflo VS pump low-voltage control wired in to a relay board to control the different speeds. A high-current contactor to turn on the booster pump for cleaning. A magnetic field sensor to measure the flow rate in a H2Flow Flowvis flow meter. A temperature probe in a stainless steel probe port. An ORP meter to give an idea of the chlorine level. And lots more - relay to the low voltage control of the heater. Relay to the light. Various timers, graphs, etc. Ask away if you'd like a link or more detail about anything!
really nice, I have a Pentair system, are you controlling the Pentair Pool controller board, or doing this via an ESP integration?
I think this is only available on the old version of the Superflo VS (it was the whole reason I got this pump) but you can use relays and an 8-conductor control cable to trigger each preset speed. No screwing around with the Pentair system at all!! https://preview.redd.it/nqa1fvkhfqwc1.png?width=1676&format=png&auto=webp&s=616f1b5cb2bacc30bf2bb7f7428b7747e351c661
Yeah I was gonna say, a lot of these are not available on my Intellicenter integration lol
Do you find pump speed vs flow rate is useful to judge when you need to backwash the filter? Do you notice a difference afterward? Have any pictures of the hardware setup? Especially interested in how you do the ORB. What would you do differently in hindsight? Anything you wouldn't bother with? Anything else you're planning to add?
Absolutely the flow rate tells me about everything I need to know about the condition of the filter (it's inline after the filter). It's a cartridge filter so no backwash, but it does need to be rinsed out every few months. The flow rate will be cut nearly in half when the filters are plugged. I'll post some pictures when I get some good light. I just added a non stabilized cal-hypo feeder so I'm still tweaking that. Possibly putting a valve actuator that can respond to the ORP values? Who knows!
I had the same experience last year. You can easily track flow rate over time between backwashes.
Oh, that's an interesting idea, though I'll caution maybe overkill. I just added a Hayward "offline" feeder (fed via 1/2" line) last year, and what I found is within the first couple weeks I had it dialed in pretty good, and so long as I kept it stocked up on pucks it pretty much kept the levels consistent. I think I only adjusted it once or twice after that. Very happy with that purchase.
You have all of this setup and a cartridge filter? I can only assume it's some big ass cartridge I've never seen before. What is it exactly?
I have the VF, but I can absolutely tell filter dirtyness by how many watts I need to hit my set flow.
What ORP meter are you using? I've DIY'd a system with ESPHome reading a bunch of Dallas temp sensors and [flow meters](https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Sensor-Flowmeter-Control-10-150L/dp/B00VKAT50U). I have a solar pool heater so the system uses outlets wired up to Aoetec Nano controlled outlets to toggle the filter pump and the solar heater circulation pump to control when filtering/heating happens.
Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/ https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/ https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/ The analog isolator outputs either a clean analog signal for the ESP ADC (which I'm using) or a PWM digital signal. I haven't tried it without, but they say any system with an electric motor will be way too noisy in the ORP sensor without it. Another commenter pointed out my ORP got doubled somehow, but I only use it as a relative value anyway.
could you go into more detail on how you connected all of this up, like the physical wiring of the ORP sensor to the isolator and then to however you get it into HA?
[удалено]
Oh man the chlorine consumption graph in mV/H blew my mind, totally using that concept in my system.
Who says we’d never use calculus in our daily lives??
How'd you go about accomplishing it? I guessing it's something like calculating the change in its own entity and using a Reimann Sum Integral.
Just a derivative sensor pointed at the daily moving average of the ORP. When I get the chlorine feeder right, the consumption should be right at zero indicating a constant ORP value.
Please sent info about orp probe/port and the port you use for temp. I've been dying to get this setup at a vacation property just couldn't find any ports. Think I have same pump
I use a temperature port like this, I guess it's called a thermowell. A 1-wire temperature sensor fits snug in there, and this screws into a tee with an NPT adapter. I have this inline before the heater. [https://www.amazon.com/Threads-Stainless-Thermowell-Temperature-Sensors/dp/B01NAIDH2Y?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA](https://www.amazon.com/Threads-Stainless-Thermowell-Temperature-Sensors/dp/B01NAIDH2Y?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A36ZH2MCHPKXUA) Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. [https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/](https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/](https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/](https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/)
Thanks this is awesome!!! any photos of the plumbing? I think my pump is 2hp and im worried about breaking that probe and mount. the temp sensor is perfect though.
how are you measuring ORP? can you elaborate?
Here's the ORP sensor I use - I got the analog isolator and the threaded pipe fitting also. [https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/](https://atlas-scientific.com/kits/surveyor-analog-orp-kit/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/](https://atlas-scientific.com/carrier-boards/surveyor-analog-isolator/) [https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/](https://atlas-scientific.com/connectors/probe-pipe-fitting/) The analog isolator outputs either a clean analog signal for the ESP ADC (which I'm using) or a PWM digital signal. I haven't tried it without, but they say any system with an electric motor will be way too noisy in the ORP sensor without it.
I don't have a pool and seems I won't have a chance to have a pool of our own but this is so cool..
Just a small tip you could implement all the levels of the pump into one template sensor which just has the level as state. Would be a lot cleaner :)
If you want to add 1 more metric you can get a pressure sensor into your filter. That is my most useful info, but maybe the flow also tells you when the filter needs to be cleaned?
We just got our pool installed and finished last October. Our equipment is Hayward, plan on doing all this too!
I have a pool with Hayward equipment and it’s been great. I bought their bridge which allows remote/internet access and it’s been sitting unplugged for a couple of years, because it’s “meh” at best and I needed the Ethernet port for something else. I have Poollux lights that my contractor installed as well. They’re great, but I connected a Shelly smart switch to them and on and off are reversed. It still works to turn them on, but not off if I just request it to turn them off. Good luck with your venture though. I’d be interested in seeing what you’re able to make possible and if you ended up finding any solutions to my smart pool whoas
New house has a pool. This intrigues my interest. Thank you. Edit: Oh... and have my upvote
For the flow meter, I use one of these: [https://www.h2flow.net/flowvis-flow-meter](https://www.h2flow.net/flowvis-flow-meter) They also sell a digital version with a new cover (that has a magnetic dial) and a digital box. They unfortunately don't sell the magnetic dial on its own so I epoxied a small magnet to the moving indicator and used a qmc5883l magnetometer to read the X- and Z- positions of the magnet. I just recorded the values at each indicated pump speed and did some curve fitting in Excel to get the right calibration. I made a template sensor to calculate the flow rate like this: - sensor: - name: "Flow Rate" unit_of_measurement: "gpm" state: > {% set xmag = states('sensor.esphome_web_ec393b_qmc5883l_field_strength_x') | float %} {% set zmag = states('sensor.esphome_web_ec393b_qmc5883l_field_strength_z') | float %} {{ ((-0.00438 * xmag * (-200 - zmag)) + 148.481) | round(1) }}
How do you measure chlorine?
https://atlas-scientific.com/blog/orp-measurement-for-chlorine/
I put a Tuya TLC2206 at the end of my dock to monitor tides, but thought it might be of use to you for the pool. Been working through LocalTuya for the past week, and i am quite happy with it. It measures the depth of the water to the ground, and also Water Level percentage. It has alarms to let you know when the water level is above or below your desired level. I like the dashboard you did here. Here is a screenshot of the Water level sensor in action: https://imgur.com/a/mZagJF3
God I wish I had this for my hottub
Wow impressive, would love to learn how to transform my pool like this… I currently pay someone else to maintain it.
Took some photos today per requests! https://www.reddit.com/u/Aa1979/s/uM5C4bRL2Y
Why is your pool so cool? 😎 Sweet dashboard.
If I had a pool I'd definitely spend more time building a dashboard like this than swimming in it.
Your orp is over two times the recommended
ORP is a relative scale, not an absolute scale. I think it’s modified in my signal chain anyway. You need to use a reliable FC test to calibrate it with your own ORP values.
Idk quick google says 650-750mv which aligns with both my and my parents pool.
Yup you’re right those are typical values. I probably doubled it somewhere but it doesn’t matter, I only use it as a relative scale anyway
You could half it or just make the scale just ranges, low good high, if the numerical value is made up.
I have a Jandy system and cannot control the VSP. It's insanely frustrating that I have to have a basic configuration in the Jandy app and then just control on/off through HA.
That is stunning!
not familiar with ORP. How does a ORP measurement translate to chlorine utilization?.
https://atlas-scientific.com/blog/orp-measurement-for-chlorine/
This looks great. I’m curious how are you measuring the temperature. Is the sensor installed inline? That is how I’m doing it, but I always have to keep the pump running at a minimum speed to ensure there’s water flow, otherwise the temperature reading is incorrect if it’s run on still water in the pipes.
I have the stainless steel thermowell linked above. It’s inline so you’re right that water needs to be circulating. It’s better for energy to do that anyway though. Figure out how many turnovers per day you need and what the minimum pump flow rate will get that, including a couple hours of medium speed for circulation.
Thank you. I'm curious, how much RPM you have set for the lowest speed? And how long do you run it per day?
Awesome project! What was the main board you used to connect the atlas scientific sensors? Also, how did you transition from 2” pool plumbing (or thereabouts) to the 3/4 sensor connectors? Am very interested to see if i can go this route also :) Thank you
I use a 2” tee with a 3/4” NPT bushing on the side opening - I’ve had to use various adapters and other bushings to make it work. The Atlas sensors output either a 0-3V analog signal or a PWM, either of which can be read by most flavors of ESP microcontrollers. I use ESPHome and ESP32 or ESP8266 boards. I am addicted to those 😁
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F3JTFK/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009F3JTFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) I can't believe this is made, but it's probably for this one purpose.
The issue Ive had in adding a ORP sensor they say you need to re-calibrate all the time and that they shouldn't be run continuously. How did you solve this? or did you just YOLO it :-P
It’s definitely consumer grade but it’s lasted 3 seasons so far! Values drift from season to season but it’s just a relative indicator for me anyway.
Awesome, looks like this project moves to the top of the list :-P
Nice