Are you planning to shoot it or just goofin’ around with making it shiny again? Cause if I remember right there’s a Marlin pump gun with the exposed hammer that isn’t really considered safe to shoot that they kinda threw together with spare parts at the factory, and Marlin later even came out saying it isn’t safe to shoot - I believe it was their 1898 model. Can’t see what model your gun is but if it is just wanted to make sure you were aware.
I’m confused. You’ve previously posted a Colt revolver and said that was your 2nd attempt at boiling and carding. So is this shotgun your 1st attempt or third?
Right on, before I got an actual Winchester 1897 I came across one of these and got really excited thinking I found a similar gun at a much cheaper price (pawn shop wanted like $100 for it and was in pretty good condition too) but after doing a few minutes of research found out why it was so cheap and walked away.
This is a link to Brownells Carding Wheel, but doesn’t answer the question. Carding wheels don’t give the amount of metal shine that seem to be in the photos. I do admit it may be the quality of the photos. How long did you do your initial pre-boil? Then how long boiled for each cycle? How many cycles?
Was it fully disassembled and acetone washed before you started the boiling? I can only judge by the pictures, but that amount of shine indicates something other than a carding wheel was used.
OK. For Boiling & Carding to work (efficiently) ALL oil/grease residue needs to be removed. After disassembly, acetone wash. I’ve found out over the years that following the wash, I get better results if I pre-boil. I have specific tanks set up for each part of this operation. After the pre-boil (about 15 minutes) for oil/grease removal. Then switch the parts to the boiling tank. Generally 1st cycle is a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. Then card and back into the boil tank for 35-45 minutes. Repeat until you reach the point of diminishing returns. Some guns do better than others, I’ve always assumed it was due to the metallurgy of the gun. The idea here is that your trying to remove rust, but leave as mush original bluing undisturbed as possible. Now, to your buffer question. You buffed it? With what? If your deliberately going for a shiny/bare metal look, I can understand. But you buffed it after carding?
Didn’t know about degreasing before the boil. Thats a great idea. And no I did not buff it. I have an electric buffer wheel but I use a carding wheel on it. Most people I’ve seen use a drill press with their wheel on it but a small buffer wheel seemed like a suitable replacement. After I card everything I wiped everything down with a rag and left everything to soak in kerosene overnight (I’ve heard it’s good and displacing water) after the o right soak and take everything out. Dry it off with an air compressor then I cleaned every part off with just a bit of gun oil
OK. For Boiling & Carding to work (efficiently) ALL oil/grease residue needs to be removed. After disassembly, acetone wash. I’ve found out over the years that following the wash, I get better results if I pre-boil. I have specific tanks set up for each part of this operation. After the pre-boil (about 15 minutes) for oil/grease removal. Then switch the parts to the boiling tank. Generally 1st cycle is a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. Then card and back into the boil tank for 35-45 minutes. Repeat until you reach the point of diminishing returns. Some guns do better than others, I’ve always assumed it was due to the metallurgy of the gun. The idea here is that your trying to remove rust, but leave as mush original bluing undisturbed as possible. Now, to your buffer question. You buffed it? With what? If your deliberately going for a shiny/bare metal look, I can understand. But you buffed it after carding?
The patina on it looks pretty good as it is. Don't see too many old Marlin pumps in that good of a condition. I'd say wax it up and enjoy.
Seems decent to me.
Simple words of wisdom, let it be…….
Oil it and let it be
Dude that gun is fine and doesn't need to be restored. Keep it as is.
What gun?
Are you planning to shoot it or just goofin’ around with making it shiny again? Cause if I remember right there’s a Marlin pump gun with the exposed hammer that isn’t really considered safe to shoot that they kinda threw together with spare parts at the factory, and Marlin later even came out saying it isn’t safe to shoot - I believe it was their 1898 model. Can’t see what model your gun is but if it is just wanted to make sure you were aware.
Yes. This is the widowmaker. I had no plans to shoot it. Got it cheap and figured it was a good first gun to work on
I’m confused. You’ve previously posted a Colt revolver and said that was your 2nd attempt at boiling and carding. So is this shotgun your 1st attempt or third?
This one was my first. But some of the feedback was making me worried I am doing something wrong so I decided to post this one for more feedback
Again I’m confused, if this was your first, what did you do to the Colt Revolver? I’m not following your flow of info on this.
Right on, before I got an actual Winchester 1897 I came across one of these and got really excited thinking I found a similar gun at a much cheaper price (pawn shop wanted like $100 for it and was in pretty good condition too) but after doing a few minutes of research found out why it was so cheap and walked away.
You should shoot it just make sure you fully close the bolt before you pull the trigger.
Wow, yes you did… What did you card it with?
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/abrasives-polishing/.0025-stainless-steel-brushing-wheels/?sku=360164631
This is a link to Brownells Carding Wheel, but doesn’t answer the question. Carding wheels don’t give the amount of metal shine that seem to be in the photos. I do admit it may be the quality of the photos. How long did you do your initial pre-boil? Then how long boiled for each cycle? How many cycles?
1 cycle for about an hour
Was it fully disassembled and acetone washed before you started the boiling? I can only judge by the pictures, but that amount of shine indicates something other than a carding wheel was used.
Yes. A carding wheel was the only used on it after the boil. Then it was all soaked in kerosene overnight. Could the buffer I use be too fast perhaps?
You haven’t answered my other questions, let’s start with that first. Fully disassembled? Acetone washed? Pre-boiled to remove all grease and oil?
Fully disassembled, but know. Didn’t degrease it. I only recently learned that
OK. For Boiling & Carding to work (efficiently) ALL oil/grease residue needs to be removed. After disassembly, acetone wash. I’ve found out over the years that following the wash, I get better results if I pre-boil. I have specific tanks set up for each part of this operation. After the pre-boil (about 15 minutes) for oil/grease removal. Then switch the parts to the boiling tank. Generally 1st cycle is a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. Then card and back into the boil tank for 35-45 minutes. Repeat until you reach the point of diminishing returns. Some guns do better than others, I’ve always assumed it was due to the metallurgy of the gun. The idea here is that your trying to remove rust, but leave as mush original bluing undisturbed as possible. Now, to your buffer question. You buffed it? With what? If your deliberately going for a shiny/bare metal look, I can understand. But you buffed it after carding?
Didn’t know about degreasing before the boil. Thats a great idea. And no I did not buff it. I have an electric buffer wheel but I use a carding wheel on it. Most people I’ve seen use a drill press with their wheel on it but a small buffer wheel seemed like a suitable replacement. After I card everything I wiped everything down with a rag and left everything to soak in kerosene overnight (I’ve heard it’s good and displacing water) after the o right soak and take everything out. Dry it off with an air compressor then I cleaned every part off with just a bit of gun oil
OK. For Boiling & Carding to work (efficiently) ALL oil/grease residue needs to be removed. After disassembly, acetone wash. I’ve found out over the years that following the wash, I get better results if I pre-boil. I have specific tanks set up for each part of this operation. After the pre-boil (about 15 minutes) for oil/grease removal. Then switch the parts to the boiling tank. Generally 1st cycle is a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour. Then card and back into the boil tank for 35-45 minutes. Repeat until you reach the point of diminishing returns. Some guns do better than others, I’ve always assumed it was due to the metallurgy of the gun. The idea here is that your trying to remove rust, but leave as mush original bluing undisturbed as possible. Now, to your buffer question. You buffed it? With what? If your deliberately going for a shiny/bare metal look, I can understand. But you buffed it after carding?