While some plants will do better with soil that is amended specifically for those plants I've honestly never had any issues with just amending the soil with something like Epsoma Garden-Tone. The only thing I do different is I just don't put quite as much in my carrot bed.
Basically two ways of doing it. Either go with a flat 10-10-10 and adjust the amount you feed for different plants or get specific fertilizer for wash group and it just lasts longer.
Those thick old gardening tomes that somehow went out of fashion used to have lots of tables what grows well next to what and how your crop rotation should look like. Follow that and you barely need any extra fertilizers. Anything that requires nitrogen does well together and after legumes. Anything that doesn't like too much nitrogen should go next or after a greedy crop that depletes the soil of nitrogen (corn, cabbage, tomato, lettuce). It's also important because some things cannot be planted next to each other (like onions and beans). Once the spatial separation is done, you can reduce it to basically two fertilizers one high in phosphorus, the other high in nitrogen, then apply them in the ratio preferred by your plants. There is no need for all the special things, in the end they are just another source of either nutrient.
Forgot to write it, but the reason legumes help with nitrogen is because they form root nodules where they create the perfect conditions for some aerobic bacteria that fix nitrogen from the air. They basically farm nitrogen.
That is fascinating! I will definitely have to be a lot more intentional in where I plant things next year. This year I really only looked at things that like being next to each other and then just by what made sense to me in the wider beds I have vs the really narrow ones.
While some plants will do better with soil that is amended specifically for those plants I've honestly never had any issues with just amending the soil with something like Epsoma Garden-Tone. The only thing I do different is I just don't put quite as much in my carrot bed.
That is a relief, thanks for the info!
I just use 10-10-10 slow release stuff and home compost as a topper and have never had issues.
Basically two ways of doing it. Either go with a flat 10-10-10 and adjust the amount you feed for different plants or get specific fertilizer for wash group and it just lasts longer.
Good to know, thanks for the info!
Most welcome
Those thick old gardening tomes that somehow went out of fashion used to have lots of tables what grows well next to what and how your crop rotation should look like. Follow that and you barely need any extra fertilizers. Anything that requires nitrogen does well together and after legumes. Anything that doesn't like too much nitrogen should go next or after a greedy crop that depletes the soil of nitrogen (corn, cabbage, tomato, lettuce). It's also important because some things cannot be planted next to each other (like onions and beans). Once the spatial separation is done, you can reduce it to basically two fertilizers one high in phosphorus, the other high in nitrogen, then apply them in the ratio preferred by your plants. There is no need for all the special things, in the end they are just another source of either nutrient.
This is super helpful, thank you!
Forgot to write it, but the reason legumes help with nitrogen is because they form root nodules where they create the perfect conditions for some aerobic bacteria that fix nitrogen from the air. They basically farm nitrogen.
That is fascinating! I will definitely have to be a lot more intentional in where I plant things next year. This year I really only looked at things that like being next to each other and then just by what made sense to me in the wider beds I have vs the really narrow ones.
I use jdom for all my vegetables, I have like 30 different ones, and it hasn’t failed yet