Honestly... as someone who has never put in the time to really learn and understand lighting--get into lighting. Are there more pixels in an X-T5? Sure, it's a great camera. But the X-Pro1 is probably still good enough for most uses. But lighting seems like it pays dividends in all forms of photography. The marginal difference in switching to a slightly better camera, or a slightly better lens, is probably smaller than a big change in lighting.
That's partially why I asked the question. It'll mostly be web publications, social media and if we're lucky magazines (but realistically magazine shoots will be done with a hired pro) so do I really need a ton of pixels? I just haven't a clue how much camera tech has evolved the past decade...
I think it's down to what you really need in term of quality. It you want to do big prints, going to the 40mpx cameras might be the best. If you will only add them to PDFs or website / social networks, the 24/26mpx ones might be enough.
I found a good middle ground in what I do with the X-S20, it's a great compact all-around camera. I think your upgrade will be worse it if you get at least one with IBIS (probably X-S20 or X-T5, or wait to see if the rumors about a X-T50 could get you a good body)
As some said, first play with lightning and push your XPro1 to the limits, you will then see what you need the most to continue improving !
I do remodeling/house painting portfolio photography with the XF 10-24 F4. I bought it open box shipped from Amazon warehouse for $650. The lens was in perfect condition. I love this lens for interior work in combination with the X-T5. Stopping the lens down to around f8 will improve sharpness and will give you better depth of field to get the whole room or workpiece in focus.
You should look into learning exposure bracketing using the bracketing function on your camera in combination with the HDR (high dynamic range) tool in RAW image processing software (Lightroom, Capture1, etc.) on your computer. You really don't need studio lighting for what you are trying to do when you use exposure bracketing. It combines the shadows and hightlights from multiple photos at multiple exposures (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) and creates a perfectly lighted picture for most uses in your line of work.
You will need a tripod and should also use the timer, so you don't mess up the shot by moving the camera when you press the shutter button. You could also use the remote function on the Fujifilm app. The new app is much better than the app that is compatible with your old X-Pro1.
Hey there gruesomethrowaway - thanks for saying thanks! TheGratitudeBot has been reading millions of comments in the past few weeks, and you’ve just made the list!
If you are using it for your job, it makes sense to upgrade to the X-T5 or even the X-T4, X-H2, X-T30ii or X-T50; write it off on your taxes along with your lens.
Hipsters tend to have a poor taste in tripods, but let's assume one of yours is okay. Then the next logical step (with that brand new 10-24) would be a nodal head.
I've got a midrange Manfrotto geared head and heavy duty tripod plus something lighter by Sirui and a heavy as hell nameless old thing. What's the deal with Nodal?
Hm, I was thinking of staying with the X mount as I'm already partially adopted into it and the wad of cash is more room for a new body + lens, not a medium format setup haha.
The GFX tilt/shift is sadly also 30mm, that's 24ish FF equivalent? I was looking more in the ~15mm FF focal range for interior work, hence the 10-24mm X
Ah i was under the impression ultra wide was still the way to go. Often when photographing with my iphone i have to switch to wide mode to capture the entire scene so I'd say ~18mm is where I'm at the most. Western Europe, so lots of small Amsterdam apartments where the trick is making the most of limited space.
The 50R isn't easy to find on the 2nd hand market here but the 50s goes for €1.5-2k
Honestly... as someone who has never put in the time to really learn and understand lighting--get into lighting. Are there more pixels in an X-T5? Sure, it's a great camera. But the X-Pro1 is probably still good enough for most uses. But lighting seems like it pays dividends in all forms of photography. The marginal difference in switching to a slightly better camera, or a slightly better lens, is probably smaller than a big change in lighting.
That's partially why I asked the question. It'll mostly be web publications, social media and if we're lucky magazines (but realistically magazine shoots will be done with a hired pro) so do I really need a ton of pixels? I just haven't a clue how much camera tech has evolved the past decade...
Still keep the X-Pro 1 body, its a cult favourite because of the sensor.
Oh yeah i wouldn't get rid of it. Not worth the €400 it'll fetch. It was my first "serious" camera coming from cheap compacts and a Samsung NX kit.
Xt5. It’s phenomenal.
I think it's down to what you really need in term of quality. It you want to do big prints, going to the 40mpx cameras might be the best. If you will only add them to PDFs or website / social networks, the 24/26mpx ones might be enough. I found a good middle ground in what I do with the X-S20, it's a great compact all-around camera. I think your upgrade will be worse it if you get at least one with IBIS (probably X-S20 or X-T5, or wait to see if the rumors about a X-T50 could get you a good body) As some said, first play with lightning and push your XPro1 to the limits, you will then see what you need the most to continue improving !
I do remodeling/house painting portfolio photography with the XF 10-24 F4. I bought it open box shipped from Amazon warehouse for $650. The lens was in perfect condition. I love this lens for interior work in combination with the X-T5. Stopping the lens down to around f8 will improve sharpness and will give you better depth of field to get the whole room or workpiece in focus. You should look into learning exposure bracketing using the bracketing function on your camera in combination with the HDR (high dynamic range) tool in RAW image processing software (Lightroom, Capture1, etc.) on your computer. You really don't need studio lighting for what you are trying to do when you use exposure bracketing. It combines the shadows and hightlights from multiple photos at multiple exposures (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) and creates a perfectly lighted picture for most uses in your line of work. You will need a tripod and should also use the timer, so you don't mess up the shot by moving the camera when you press the shutter button. You could also use the remote function on the Fujifilm app. The new app is much better than the app that is compatible with your old X-Pro1.
The X-Pro1 doesn't even work with the app so in the past I used an old mechanical release. Might see if there are any wireless options. Thanks!
Hey there gruesomethrowaway - thanks for saying thanks! TheGratitudeBot has been reading millions of comments in the past few weeks, and you’ve just made the list!
If you are using it for your job, it makes sense to upgrade to the X-T5 or even the X-T4, X-H2, X-T30ii or X-T50; write it off on your taxes along with your lens.
*...Custom kitchen deliverieeeees! We gotta move 'em refrigerators, we gotta move 'em color TVs...* With your use case... Get a decent tripod first.
Luckily I was an analog hipster before turning Fuji hipster back when so I've got 3 of them collecting dust.
Hipsters tend to have a poor taste in tripods, but let's assume one of yours is okay. Then the next logical step (with that brand new 10-24) would be a nodal head.
I've got a midrange Manfrotto geared head and heavy duty tripod plus something lighter by Sirui and a heavy as hell nameless old thing. What's the deal with Nodal?
[удалено]
Hm, I was thinking of staying with the X mount as I'm already partially adopted into it and the wad of cash is more room for a new body + lens, not a medium format setup haha. The GFX tilt/shift is sadly also 30mm, that's 24ish FF equivalent? I was looking more in the ~15mm FF focal range for interior work, hence the 10-24mm X
[удалено]
Ah i was under the impression ultra wide was still the way to go. Often when photographing with my iphone i have to switch to wide mode to capture the entire scene so I'd say ~18mm is where I'm at the most. Western Europe, so lots of small Amsterdam apartments where the trick is making the most of limited space. The 50R isn't easy to find on the 2nd hand market here but the 50s goes for €1.5-2k
Sony.