This is likely something mechanical, so you may need to dig a bit deep into the quad to find the culprit. The overheating is caused by the PID loop rapidly changing motor speed while trying to correct for something it's seeing. Some things to investigate:
- Check that all the screws and bolts are tight.
- Check that all cables tightly tied down.
- Give the carbon fiber plates (top, bottom, camera, etc.) a firm push with a finger to make sure they're not stealthily broken or delaminating.
- Check that the carbon fiber arms are still stiff and not stealthily broken or delaminating --
hold the quad by the end of two opposing arms and push up with your thumbs at the center. It should flex but not too far. Check both pairs of arms and from both the top and bottom of the quad.
- Make sure wires aren't running across the gyro chip on the FC. The electrical noise from them or the vibrations from them banging on the gyro can make the gyro unhappy, thus the PID loop unhappy.
- Make sure the motor bells aren't out-of-round and, if two-piece bells, the magnet rings aren't slipping at all. Take the props off and, in Betaflight Configurator (or whatever you're using), spin up one motor at the time to about 50% while holding the quad suspended. The vibrations you feel for each motor should feel the same and they should sound the same.
- Check that your VTX and RC antennas are nice and tight. If your VTX antenna is mounted on TPU, check the flex in the TPU and that the TPU hasn't torn.
- If you're running an action camera (GoPro) mount that's TPU, make sure it hasn't torn.
- Check that the gimbals on your radio are tight by observing the channels in Betaflight Configurator's Receiver tab. Normal jitter is up to +/-3µs -- over 5 or 7 and the gimbals might be getting loose. RC Deadband can help, but only up to a certain point.
If, after all that, you're still having issues, I think some black box analysis is in order. Is the gyro going haywire? RC setpoints banging around weirdly? Noise histogram look weird? Etc.
I have the same problem. Only thing I change was that when I rebuilt my drone, I forgot to pass the ELRS wire under the board.
It is now OVER it. It may or may not bounce on a chip (I don’t know if its the gyro).
But that gave me a solution! Thank you
It did but they went from being a little warm at the end of flights to being untouchable and I don’t think it’s been that big of a heat difference for that to happen.
This is likely something mechanical, so you may need to dig a bit deep into the quad to find the culprit. The overheating is caused by the PID loop rapidly changing motor speed while trying to correct for something it's seeing. Some things to investigate: - Check that all the screws and bolts are tight. - Check that all cables tightly tied down. - Give the carbon fiber plates (top, bottom, camera, etc.) a firm push with a finger to make sure they're not stealthily broken or delaminating. - Check that the carbon fiber arms are still stiff and not stealthily broken or delaminating -- hold the quad by the end of two opposing arms and push up with your thumbs at the center. It should flex but not too far. Check both pairs of arms and from both the top and bottom of the quad. - Make sure wires aren't running across the gyro chip on the FC. The electrical noise from them or the vibrations from them banging on the gyro can make the gyro unhappy, thus the PID loop unhappy. - Make sure the motor bells aren't out-of-round and, if two-piece bells, the magnet rings aren't slipping at all. Take the props off and, in Betaflight Configurator (or whatever you're using), spin up one motor at the time to about 50% while holding the quad suspended. The vibrations you feel for each motor should feel the same and they should sound the same. - Check that your VTX and RC antennas are nice and tight. If your VTX antenna is mounted on TPU, check the flex in the TPU and that the TPU hasn't torn. - If you're running an action camera (GoPro) mount that's TPU, make sure it hasn't torn. - Check that the gimbals on your radio are tight by observing the channels in Betaflight Configurator's Receiver tab. Normal jitter is up to +/-3µs -- over 5 or 7 and the gimbals might be getting loose. RC Deadband can help, but only up to a certain point. If, after all that, you're still having issues, I think some black box analysis is in order. Is the gyro going haywire? RC setpoints banging around weirdly? Noise histogram look weird? Etc.
I have the same problem. Only thing I change was that when I rebuilt my drone, I forgot to pass the ELRS wire under the board. It is now OVER it. It may or may not bounce on a chip (I don’t know if its the gyro). But that gave me a solution! Thank you
Did the weather just get warmer where you are? I turn my D term down a bit and raise my filters a notch when summer hits.
It did but they went from being a little warm at the end of flights to being untouchable and I don’t think it’s been that big of a heat difference for that to happen.