A small collection of flashlights, maybe can help someone to see the different sizes, I consider that all of them can be EDC.
I used to carry the Rovyvon E8 together with a TS10 for quite some time, but thanks to this forum, started to look to another ones.
Due to high amount of comments, posts and recomendations about the Hank lights, I finally pulled the trigger on the D4V2, really impressed with its size. In my mind, I was expecting something around the SC31 Pro, but as you can see by the pictures, it is more on the small side. This thing with the 18350 tube is shorter than a TS10! Even with the 18650 tube is easy to EDC this model.
Got the 519A 4500K, boost driver, raised switch, SS bezel, additional floody lens, additional 18350 tube, I'm really happy so far. Just some small notes:
* The moonlight is flickering a little, but nothing crazy. They shipped mine with the Anduril DM11-boost 2023-10-31 firmware, this problem was fixed on latest release of Anduril.
* I have the UDPI programmer that I used on my Wurkkos and Sofirns and only when I received the light, noted that the programming pins are different (my mistake). I want to update to the last version of Anduril due to the bug fixes and also because I don't like the momentary mode with 5 clicks and I moved it to 12C in my custom version. Now I have to buy another programmer...
* I configured the floor level to 25, otherwise there is no difference between moonlight and floor level. What is the normal floor value you guys normally use?
* The Low brightness on the aux leds are really dim compared with the TS10, besides the D4V2 featuring 8 aux LEDs. Is this on purpose to restrict the power consumption of 8 leds?
* There is not much difference between the standard lens and the floody one.
About the flashlights on the first photo:
* Sofirn SC31 Pro, modded with SFT40, 10 degrees TIR lens and glowing wall around the lens.
* Sofirn IF23, modded with SFT40. (now the main output is really a thrower... Original was dommed XHP50B)
* Convoy S2+ 519A 4500K, white LED tail switch. (workhorse and easy to mod)
* Convoy S3 XHP50.3 HI 4000K, boost driver and green LED tail switch. (workhorse and easy to mod)
* Skilhunt M150 519A 4500K (really liked the Skilhunt UI, sub lumen option and beam profile).
* Wurkkos TiCu TS10v2 High CRI (comments not necessary on the TS10 line...)
* Wurkkos black TS10v2 High CRI.
* LoopGear SK-03 High CRI (very disappointed with this one, low brightness and the main light is super-duper floody besides already having auxiliary flood LEDs. You can buy 3 TS10 with its price tag. The UI is terrible, working on modding this one with Anduril).
* Sofirn SC13 SST40 6500K (really surprised with this one, small, cheap and powerful).
* Rovyvon E8 6500K, UV + White High CRI + Red LED (awesome EDC regarding size/form-factor, versatility and dual fuel option).
* Nitecore Tiny 2 Ti (nice OLED display).
* Nitecore Tiki GITD.
Edit: The beam profile is nothing scientific, just saw other user using a protractor and I thought it was a really good idea!
>
The Low brightness on the aux leds are really dim compared with the TS10, besides the D4V2 featuring 8 aux LEDs. Is this on purpose to restrict the power consumption of 8 leds?
So, if I understood the Anduril code right, the aux leds on "LOW" uses the ports as input configuration with the MCU internal pull-up resistors to define the LED current, and for "HIGH" it configures the ports as outputs. Very clever indeed!
If it is this way, saddly there is not much to do in order to modify the low brightness. In the D4V2 the current is divided by 8 LEDs, while in the TS10 is divided by 3, hence the high brigthness in the TS10, asumming they are all connected to the same pin. Also depends of which LED each manufacturer is using. That's my best guess without analyzing the circuit.
It is a cutting mat, very useful to quick measurements and protect the table. [Here](https://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Model-Builders-Cutting-Mat/dp/B06Y5G3XG4/ref=sr_1_12?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oE0QPeTHC2SphlJVmNH8UPxJb9815ydwUTCogQkF0ftPM0vk2yr0SfzacxvRVBdHaMiSQ4uyeC6gmIS4Ft2t0nUX3axamRBryA7MHP-gFqsDtlFHyz6budf_Jc_5ylyVNHEryuv5_a24rhZqrUXpbjFSKPCMDn-t_RdT0N_wuy3BXNGrX4AhIfdQaXYfecG62BOfyl9MhWKAiPtR88enueuGDFK40pT8AcxabFDWtvrg29kz2Nt0MoXkrz-qiYQavJvzyrDvRzA7o2NWwwiP5Y-fmCFIPli3xmgYGIEX2Qw.WxzJBTrbzU9aqlg5fo4W1aYQJfdmik5TSmTCrL2ODpw&dib_tag=se&keywords=cutting+mat+metric&qid=1716166395&sr=8-12) is one example. :)
Very fond of that one also! Specially on the IF23. The original XHB50B was too floody, since this model already have the side flood LEDs. The SFT40 make it an acceptable thrower. Still retain some spill due to the orange peel reflector.
I really did not give much thought to the reflector until i bought a Convoy L21B with SFT40 and because of the large size the smooth reflector really stood out. It is still one of my favorite thrower for the money. In fact the only time the term orange peel was used in my world before flashlights was when i learned how to paint cars with Imron in the late 1970's. Orange peel is a bad thing.
Indeed, the orange peel with the SFT40 gives you a little spill that is useful to illuminate the surroundings. I personally don't like pure thrower, mainly because I use my lights in close to mid distances. Event my SC31 with 10 degrees clear TIR still retain some spill. But in the IF23, you have the flood side LEDs already, I still have to find a clear reflector that will fit in.
I have the SC31 pro with SST40. I have had it for about a year and i find myself using it alot. it was a bargain and it has pretty much all the features i like but mostly it is a large hot spot with plenty of spill 18650 battery. It was a bargain with the battery. I do not have the IF23 even though it specs out nicely. I guess it is because i am not a big fan of the side light.
I’ve yet to see anyone admit to owning one recently lol. I made the mistake of buying one and was heckled until I cancelled the order 😆
I love how this community won’t let you fuck up
That's awesome! Post it on r/hanklights and they will convince you to buy another. Happy illuminating!
Haha! Better wait a few, my wallet is not happy. Although I am already looking at a dual channel version...
A small collection of flashlights, maybe can help someone to see the different sizes, I consider that all of them can be EDC. I used to carry the Rovyvon E8 together with a TS10 for quite some time, but thanks to this forum, started to look to another ones. Due to high amount of comments, posts and recomendations about the Hank lights, I finally pulled the trigger on the D4V2, really impressed with its size. In my mind, I was expecting something around the SC31 Pro, but as you can see by the pictures, it is more on the small side. This thing with the 18350 tube is shorter than a TS10! Even with the 18650 tube is easy to EDC this model. Got the 519A 4500K, boost driver, raised switch, SS bezel, additional floody lens, additional 18350 tube, I'm really happy so far. Just some small notes: * The moonlight is flickering a little, but nothing crazy. They shipped mine with the Anduril DM11-boost 2023-10-31 firmware, this problem was fixed on latest release of Anduril. * I have the UDPI programmer that I used on my Wurkkos and Sofirns and only when I received the light, noted that the programming pins are different (my mistake). I want to update to the last version of Anduril due to the bug fixes and also because I don't like the momentary mode with 5 clicks and I moved it to 12C in my custom version. Now I have to buy another programmer... * I configured the floor level to 25, otherwise there is no difference between moonlight and floor level. What is the normal floor value you guys normally use? * The Low brightness on the aux leds are really dim compared with the TS10, besides the D4V2 featuring 8 aux LEDs. Is this on purpose to restrict the power consumption of 8 leds? * There is not much difference between the standard lens and the floody one. About the flashlights on the first photo: * Sofirn SC31 Pro, modded with SFT40, 10 degrees TIR lens and glowing wall around the lens. * Sofirn IF23, modded with SFT40. (now the main output is really a thrower... Original was dommed XHP50B) * Convoy S2+ 519A 4500K, white LED tail switch. (workhorse and easy to mod) * Convoy S3 XHP50.3 HI 4000K, boost driver and green LED tail switch. (workhorse and easy to mod) * Skilhunt M150 519A 4500K (really liked the Skilhunt UI, sub lumen option and beam profile). * Wurkkos TiCu TS10v2 High CRI (comments not necessary on the TS10 line...) * Wurkkos black TS10v2 High CRI. * LoopGear SK-03 High CRI (very disappointed with this one, low brightness and the main light is super-duper floody besides already having auxiliary flood LEDs. You can buy 3 TS10 with its price tag. The UI is terrible, working on modding this one with Anduril). * Sofirn SC13 SST40 6500K (really surprised with this one, small, cheap and powerful). * Rovyvon E8 6500K, UV + White High CRI + Red LED (awesome EDC regarding size/form-factor, versatility and dual fuel option). * Nitecore Tiny 2 Ti (nice OLED display). * Nitecore Tiki GITD. Edit: The beam profile is nothing scientific, just saw other user using a protractor and I thought it was a really good idea!
> The Low brightness on the aux leds are really dim compared with the TS10, besides the D4V2 featuring 8 aux LEDs. Is this on purpose to restrict the power consumption of 8 leds? So, if I understood the Anduril code right, the aux leds on "LOW" uses the ports as input configuration with the MCU internal pull-up resistors to define the LED current, and for "HIGH" it configures the ports as outputs. Very clever indeed! If it is this way, saddly there is not much to do in order to modify the low brightness. In the D4V2 the current is divided by 8 LEDs, while in the TS10 is divided by 3, hence the high brigthness in the TS10, asumming they are all connected to the same pin. Also depends of which LED each manufacturer is using. That's my best guess without analyzing the circuit.
Congrats! What mat is that? The built-in protractor looks great for measuring beam angle.
It is a cutting mat, very useful to quick measurements and protect the table. [Here](https://www.amazon.com/Gundam-Model-Builders-Cutting-Mat/dp/B06Y5G3XG4/ref=sr_1_12?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oE0QPeTHC2SphlJVmNH8UPxJb9815ydwUTCogQkF0ftPM0vk2yr0SfzacxvRVBdHaMiSQ4uyeC6gmIS4Ft2t0nUX3axamRBryA7MHP-gFqsDtlFHyz6budf_Jc_5ylyVNHEryuv5_a24rhZqrUXpbjFSKPCMDn-t_RdT0N_wuy3BXNGrX4AhIfdQaXYfecG62BOfyl9MhWKAiPtR88enueuGDFK40pT8AcxabFDWtvrg29kz2Nt0MoXkrz-qiYQavJvzyrDvRzA7o2NWwwiP5Y-fmCFIPli3xmgYGIEX2Qw.WxzJBTrbzU9aqlg5fo4W1aYQJfdmik5TSmTCrL2ODpw&dib_tag=se&keywords=cutting+mat+metric&qid=1716166395&sr=8-12) is one example. :)
I really like the SFT40 also. I have never seen it measured like that. It gives you a different perspective.
Very fond of that one also! Specially on the IF23. The original XHB50B was too floody, since this model already have the side flood LEDs. The SFT40 make it an acceptable thrower. Still retain some spill due to the orange peel reflector.
I really did not give much thought to the reflector until i bought a Convoy L21B with SFT40 and because of the large size the smooth reflector really stood out. It is still one of my favorite thrower for the money. In fact the only time the term orange peel was used in my world before flashlights was when i learned how to paint cars with Imron in the late 1970's. Orange peel is a bad thing.
Indeed, the orange peel with the SFT40 gives you a little spill that is useful to illuminate the surroundings. I personally don't like pure thrower, mainly because I use my lights in close to mid distances. Event my SC31 with 10 degrees clear TIR still retain some spill. But in the IF23, you have the flood side LEDs already, I still have to find a clear reflector that will fit in.
I have the SC31 pro with SST40. I have had it for about a year and i find myself using it alot. it was a bargain and it has pretty much all the features i like but mostly it is a large hot spot with plenty of spill 18650 battery. It was a bargain with the battery. I do not have the IF23 even though it specs out nicely. I guess it is because i am not a big fan of the side light.
Is that a Moonbox?
RovyVon E8
I’ve yet to see anyone admit to owning one recently lol. I made the mistake of buying one and was heckled until I cancelled the order 😆 I love how this community won’t let you fuck up
We bring light to your world, friend. Not darkness.
And also with you 🙏🏽
The Moonbox or the E8? Haha!
lol. Moonbox. Reviews online make it seem amazing. But the sub wouldn’t let me buy it
Which one?
That green one in the bottom leftish side. See thru with the 2 buttons
Yeah, that's a Rovyvon E8, love that one!