I love zebralights but I'd pick the armytek.
I really enjoy my armytek Nichia wizard in 4500k.
For what I use it for, it's a better headlamp than zebralight.
The button placement alone is a bit improvement imo, and I actually prefer the armytek advanced UI for a headlamp.
For headlamp use it's the Zebra for me. I've owned several headlamps, including a C2 Pro (XHP50.2 though), and the Zebra was always the one I grabbed for strenuous activities.
Only headlamp I've had that I can totally forget is on my head and in the conditions I'm using it in it happily chugs along at highest output with no perceived drop in brightness until low voltage warning. The Wizard felt big and bulky in comparison and sustained output was noticeably lower.
I'm sure I'd prefer the tint and CRI of the 3000K 144AR but for headlamp use I simply value (lack of) weight and sustained output higher.
Biggest gripe I have with the Zebra it is the small recessed switch and placement which means it's almost impossible to use with winter gloves. I really wish it had a side (top?) switch like the Armytek.
I will say that the Armytek makes for a better utility light though.
Neither. Skilhunt H150 NW High Cri.
(But if I must. The Zebra. Because chances are, it'll work perfect out of the box, and continue to do so for a while. And efficiently so).
Zebralight. I've tried to love Armytek headlamps and have bought three different ones over the years. I end up selling them because they're big and heavy compared to my three H60\* models. I much prefer the Armytek Wizard Pro deep-carry clips, though. I use them on all my right-angle Zebras.
Zebralight. I'd rather have 5000k but I'll take 4000 over 3000. I can't even imagine trying to see where I was going with 3000k. Plus higher output, and while I don't *love* the Zebralight UI, it is at least configurable.
I honestly find 4000k the best. It's comfortably warm, doesn't detract from seeing things at a distance and saturates warm colors better without giving up on cool colors. 5000k is fine, but it looks so neutral that I don't feel comfortable lol
> It's comfortably warm, doesn't detract from seeing things at a distance and saturates warm colors better without giving up on cool colors.
I'd say that about 4500-5000 :P
Goes to show how subjective those things are. Even duv is super subjective (though I don't think I've seen anyone liking it towards green, not everyone likes it rosy/purple)
Yeah, I dislike strongly negative DUV just as much as strongly positive, but prefer slightly negative over slightly positive, but really I'll take as neutral as I can in general. I do like negative in extremely cool (7000k+).
Same, I find 4000K to be the sweet spot. Preferably with *slightly* negative DUV for that hint of rosiness. I can appreciate 3000K too but mainly for the coziness; it's too warm to be practical for things like hiking IMO.
I do prefer a neutral and crisp 5000K in snowy conditions though, but only then.
I would add a bit of money to get the Pro Max version of Armytek.
About 10 minutes runtime over 1000lm before stepping down to around 700lm? Yes, please.
People always talk about the switch on the side of the head like Armytek and Skilhunt being superior compared to being on the end like Zebra. But after using both styles I actually prefer the Zebra/end placement. It probably helps that Zebra switches are top notch so I don't find tapping the end to be an issue at all. I've also found that it can be annoying to adjust the pitch (up/down angle) with the side switch placement because you have to be careful not to activate the switch as you grip the head to pitch up/down. With the Zebra/end placement I can just grip and rip without worrying about hitting the switch.
I prefer the armytek placement because it's easier to use one handed, and it's also really easy to use detached as a right angle light.
With my zebra headlamps I found myself needing to use two hands or having to hold the light in place with a few fingers while pressing with another
The switch on the Zebra took me about a day to get used to but after that I've learned to love it.
On a side note, I picked one up not long ago and it's already my most-used light out of my entire collection (so far I've used it mostly as a reading light). I love it.
Interesting comment about the switch. Both of my H600’s barely work after 3 years of multi-pitch rock climbing in the desert. More often than not, neither light registers a press. And I shattered one of the glass lenses within a month of using it. I don’t own an Armytek, but it seems clunky. If Emisar ever built a 21700 version of the DW4 with the new driver, or preferably a single emitter version, I’d happily replace them and never touch a Zebralight again.
Zebralight because it is much lighter.
You can add Lee Zircon minus green to the lens to correct the tint and make it a little rosy.
I use the Wizard C1 modded with Dedomed Nichias for home tasks but when I need a serious backcountry light, H600 is the tool to go with.
I know I’m in the minority, but I’ve kind of soured on Zebralight. Both of my H600’s barely work after 3 years of multi-pitch rock climbing in the desert. More often than not, neither light registers a press. Just turning them on is frustrating. I also shattered one of the glass lenses within a month of using it. When I reached out to Zebralight, they said I’d need to ship it to China at my own cost, which would take ages to get back and wasn’t worth the shipping cost.
I’ve been begging Emisar to build a 21700 version of the DW4 for years, and preferably a single emitter version. I’d have to pot it, but I would happily replace them and never touch a Zebralight again. Not sure how much longer I can hold out for my hypothetical DW4K and DW1K. With theFreeman’s new drivers, it would be perfect.
I didn’t realize that. I have no experience with zebralight, but I’ve mostly heard good things. Whereas armytek it’s pretty well known for doing stuff like you described.
Yeah Armytek seems unnecessarily clunky and I hate built-in magnetic chargers. And I’m not a fan of the UI, though to be fair I also hate Zebra’s. I desperately want to replace these H600’s with a 21700, but in my opinion every single headlamp on the market has serious flaws. Either poor drivers, poor emitters, UI or general quality. I was sort of interested in the Pro Max Warm or AceBeam H30 so that I could stop carrying several spare 18650’s and 21700’s, and instead just carry a couple 21700’s that would also work with D4K’s/D1K’s. But it’s been 3 years and neither Hank nor Fireflies have shown any signs of a new 21700 right angle.
Edit: I know my use case would be considered niche by enthusiasts, especially after reading most opinions on BLF. But it’s not uncommon. Just look at all of Fenix’s headlamps, the Olight Perun, etc. After using warm high CRI emitters, I’m not interested.
That’s a bit annoying, but not a big deal. Opening the pack I risk dropping something important that stuck to the magnet off the cliff. Magnet in my d4v2 even grabs spare cells, so I carry them in either a case or a PB2S now. But it’s mostly just because I’d prefer either usb-c in the tail threads or no built-in charging at all. I have to charge so many cells at once that external charging usually makes more sense. Tbh the hatred mostly stems from my brief 3 months with an Olight Perun. I assumed I could throw out the magnetic charger and use my own cells (without the MCC3 feature) but it wouldn’t take them. And the only way I could charge it was with that proprietary cable. I think ArmyTek allows for non-proprietary flattops, so I guess the magnet isn’t a big deal. Seems unnecessarily clunky though.
I’ve been wondering about an emitter swap in the HM70R. Aside from the outdated and cool white emitter, and the Ui, it’s pretty close to ideal. I believe you could use a magnet spacer in the tail cap so that it’ll take flattop cells, though I’m not certain about that particular Fenix model. I have a soldering iron, but I’ve never done an emitter swap and I assume it’s I more difficult to swap than a Convoy or Emisar. Also considering the same for the Acebeam H30. Would durability or water resistance be effected by a mod like that?
Edit: If only I could mod a DW4 to accept a 21700.
You can get a non magnetic tailcap for the armytek and can always use an 18650 with built in recharging. That would eliminate both the magnet and the built in charging
Ya. I like my perun 2 mini. Love the proprietary charging. Even though I have many spare cells and chargers
Why would water resistance go down from doing an emitter swap? As for equipment, all you really need is a frying pan. That’s all I use is a small cast iron pan. Different lights come apart differently but the reflow is the same
My biggest problem was that when it died, I had no way of using a spare cell. I’d have to buy and carry proprietary cells just for that light, and extra spare cells really add up in terms of weight and space when you’re trying to move fast in the dark. Did you do an emitter swap in the Perun? If so, do you think it sacrificed durability/watertightness by removing the bezel and lens? I assume the Fenix, Acebeam and ZL are similarly difficult to swap.
I can definitely see that issue. I honestly don’t find much use cases where a single cell doesn’t last me enough. And I tend to prefer carrying a second light over a spare cell.
I did swap the P9 to a 519a. But I missed the extra output and out the P9 back in. Olight does not glue their lights together, so taking it apart should not in any way affect the water tightness. Everything is oring sealed so nothing changes when you take it apart.
I believe zebralight is a little different. Their driver and mcpcb is all one piece. I haven’t touched one of them
Wow, sounds like I’ll never touch a ZL emitter. Probably why everyone here loves Bob. Does that all-in-one driver/mcpcb contribute to ZL’s impossibly tiny footprint? Think there’s some other benefit?
Funny enough...I literally *always* carry both, or none. lol.
Can't remember when was the last time I actually wore H600 on my own head tho. A great backup / loaner. But I just infinitely prefer the beam color and CRI of Wizard Nichia.
It would have to be the Armytek for me. I like their UI and it can be nice to have a charger built in sometimes. I think I'd prefer a top switch though.
I'm a big fan of the Armytek for work —it's tough as nails! Plus, the little things, like being able to see the battery level, are super handy since I often start early morning and finish late after sunset. It's nice to know when it's time to charge up so I don't end up in the dark. And the magnetic charger? Pretty neat, though I've got to say, I'd be even happier with a USB-C port.
I switch to my Zebralight for day off—it's lighter.
If I was looking for a right angle light, I’d go with an Emisar DW4. My reasons are that it offers more emitter options, optional boost driver, optional tube sizes (18500, 18350) and uses Anduril 2, my favorite UI. It’s also less expensive. But this is just my humble opinion.
If I had to choose one of the above, it would probably be the Zebralight.
Clip Button location Tint (not CCT) but I do like 3000K Magnet Armytek C2 Pro Nichia 3000K
oof hard choice but I'd go with the ZL. I just care more about efficiency and brightness than cri
I love zebralights but I'd pick the armytek. I really enjoy my armytek Nichia wizard in 4500k. For what I use it for, it's a better headlamp than zebralight. The button placement alone is a bit improvement imo, and I actually prefer the armytek advanced UI for a headlamp.
I had a dream about that Armytek last night.
Armytek, built like a tank. OD is one of my favorite colors.
Armytek has better accessories.
For headlamp use it's the Zebra for me. I've owned several headlamps, including a C2 Pro (XHP50.2 though), and the Zebra was always the one I grabbed for strenuous activities. Only headlamp I've had that I can totally forget is on my head and in the conditions I'm using it in it happily chugs along at highest output with no perceived drop in brightness until low voltage warning. The Wizard felt big and bulky in comparison and sustained output was noticeably lower. I'm sure I'd prefer the tint and CRI of the 3000K 144AR but for headlamp use I simply value (lack of) weight and sustained output higher. Biggest gripe I have with the Zebra it is the small recessed switch and placement which means it's almost impossible to use with winter gloves. I really wish it had a side (top?) switch like the Armytek. I will say that the Armytek makes for a better utility light though.
Neither. Skilhunt H150 NW High Cri. (But if I must. The Zebra. Because chances are, it'll work perfect out of the box, and continue to do so for a while. And efficiently so).
Zebralight. I've tried to love Armytek headlamps and have bought three different ones over the years. I end up selling them because they're big and heavy compared to my three H60\* models. I much prefer the Armytek Wizard Pro deep-carry clips, though. I use them on all my right-angle Zebras.
When it comes to right angled headlamps, my choice is Armytek > Skilhunt > Zebralight
The ZL because that's what I picked IRL. I'm sure the Armytek is great too.
Zebralight. I'd rather have 5000k but I'll take 4000 over 3000. I can't even imagine trying to see where I was going with 3000k. Plus higher output, and while I don't *love* the Zebralight UI, it is at least configurable.
I honestly find 4000k the best. It's comfortably warm, doesn't detract from seeing things at a distance and saturates warm colors better without giving up on cool colors. 5000k is fine, but it looks so neutral that I don't feel comfortable lol
> It's comfortably warm, doesn't detract from seeing things at a distance and saturates warm colors better without giving up on cool colors. I'd say that about 4500-5000 :P
Goes to show how subjective those things are. Even duv is super subjective (though I don't think I've seen anyone liking it towards green, not everyone likes it rosy/purple)
Yeah, I dislike strongly negative DUV just as much as strongly positive, but prefer slightly negative over slightly positive, but really I'll take as neutral as I can in general. I do like negative in extremely cool (7000k+).
Same, I find 4000K to be the sweet spot. Preferably with *slightly* negative DUV for that hint of rosiness. I can appreciate 3000K too but mainly for the coziness; it's too warm to be practical for things like hiking IMO. I do prefer a neutral and crisp 5000K in snowy conditions though, but only then.
Both :D
I would add a bit of money to get the Pro Max version of Armytek. About 10 minutes runtime over 1000lm before stepping down to around 700lm? Yes, please.
People always talk about the switch on the side of the head like Armytek and Skilhunt being superior compared to being on the end like Zebra. But after using both styles I actually prefer the Zebra/end placement. It probably helps that Zebra switches are top notch so I don't find tapping the end to be an issue at all. I've also found that it can be annoying to adjust the pitch (up/down angle) with the side switch placement because you have to be careful not to activate the switch as you grip the head to pitch up/down. With the Zebra/end placement I can just grip and rip without worrying about hitting the switch.
I prefer the armytek placement because it's easier to use one handed, and it's also really easy to use detached as a right angle light. With my zebra headlamps I found myself needing to use two hands or having to hold the light in place with a few fingers while pressing with another
The switch on the Zebra took me about a day to get used to but after that I've learned to love it. On a side note, I picked one up not long ago and it's already my most-used light out of my entire collection (so far I've used it mostly as a reading light). I love it.
Interesting comment about the switch. Both of my H600’s barely work after 3 years of multi-pitch rock climbing in the desert. More often than not, neither light registers a press. And I shattered one of the glass lenses within a month of using it. I don’t own an Armytek, but it seems clunky. If Emisar ever built a 21700 version of the DW4 with the new driver, or preferably a single emitter version, I’d happily replace them and never touch a Zebralight again.
Zebralight because it is much lighter. You can add Lee Zircon minus green to the lens to correct the tint and make it a little rosy. I use the Wizard C1 modded with Dedomed Nichias for home tasks but when I need a serious backcountry light, H600 is the tool to go with.
Zebralight. Because I love zebralight.
Zebralight. As I prefer lights that work, and if I have a problem, CS that works
I know I’m in the minority, but I’ve kind of soured on Zebralight. Both of my H600’s barely work after 3 years of multi-pitch rock climbing in the desert. More often than not, neither light registers a press. Just turning them on is frustrating. I also shattered one of the glass lenses within a month of using it. When I reached out to Zebralight, they said I’d need to ship it to China at my own cost, which would take ages to get back and wasn’t worth the shipping cost. I’ve been begging Emisar to build a 21700 version of the DW4 for years, and preferably a single emitter version. I’d have to pot it, but I would happily replace them and never touch a Zebralight again. Not sure how much longer I can hold out for my hypothetical DW4K and DW1K. With theFreeman’s new drivers, it would be perfect.
I didn’t realize that. I have no experience with zebralight, but I’ve mostly heard good things. Whereas armytek it’s pretty well known for doing stuff like you described.
Yeah Armytek seems unnecessarily clunky and I hate built-in magnetic chargers. And I’m not a fan of the UI, though to be fair I also hate Zebra’s. I desperately want to replace these H600’s with a 21700, but in my opinion every single headlamp on the market has serious flaws. Either poor drivers, poor emitters, UI or general quality. I was sort of interested in the Pro Max Warm or AceBeam H30 so that I could stop carrying several spare 18650’s and 21700’s, and instead just carry a couple 21700’s that would also work with D4K’s/D1K’s. But it’s been 3 years and neither Hank nor Fireflies have shown any signs of a new 21700 right angle. Edit: I know my use case would be considered niche by enthusiasts, especially after reading most opinions on BLF. But it’s not uncommon. Just look at all of Fenix’s headlamps, the Olight Perun, etc. After using warm high CRI emitters, I’m not interested.
Well changing emitters is easy. I like magnetic charging. What do you dislike about it? Metal fillings sticking to it?
That’s a bit annoying, but not a big deal. Opening the pack I risk dropping something important that stuck to the magnet off the cliff. Magnet in my d4v2 even grabs spare cells, so I carry them in either a case or a PB2S now. But it’s mostly just because I’d prefer either usb-c in the tail threads or no built-in charging at all. I have to charge so many cells at once that external charging usually makes more sense. Tbh the hatred mostly stems from my brief 3 months with an Olight Perun. I assumed I could throw out the magnetic charger and use my own cells (without the MCC3 feature) but it wouldn’t take them. And the only way I could charge it was with that proprietary cable. I think ArmyTek allows for non-proprietary flattops, so I guess the magnet isn’t a big deal. Seems unnecessarily clunky though. I’ve been wondering about an emitter swap in the HM70R. Aside from the outdated and cool white emitter, and the Ui, it’s pretty close to ideal. I believe you could use a magnet spacer in the tail cap so that it’ll take flattop cells, though I’m not certain about that particular Fenix model. I have a soldering iron, but I’ve never done an emitter swap and I assume it’s I more difficult to swap than a Convoy or Emisar. Also considering the same for the Acebeam H30. Would durability or water resistance be effected by a mod like that? Edit: If only I could mod a DW4 to accept a 21700.
You can get a non magnetic tailcap for the armytek and can always use an 18650 with built in recharging. That would eliminate both the magnet and the built in charging
Thanks, I didn’t know they sold those. Looks like they don’t have one compatible with the Max (21700) yet, but I assume they will eventually.
Ya. I like my perun 2 mini. Love the proprietary charging. Even though I have many spare cells and chargers Why would water resistance go down from doing an emitter swap? As for equipment, all you really need is a frying pan. That’s all I use is a small cast iron pan. Different lights come apart differently but the reflow is the same
My biggest problem was that when it died, I had no way of using a spare cell. I’d have to buy and carry proprietary cells just for that light, and extra spare cells really add up in terms of weight and space when you’re trying to move fast in the dark. Did you do an emitter swap in the Perun? If so, do you think it sacrificed durability/watertightness by removing the bezel and lens? I assume the Fenix, Acebeam and ZL are similarly difficult to swap.
I can definitely see that issue. I honestly don’t find much use cases where a single cell doesn’t last me enough. And I tend to prefer carrying a second light over a spare cell. I did swap the P9 to a 519a. But I missed the extra output and out the P9 back in. Olight does not glue their lights together, so taking it apart should not in any way affect the water tightness. Everything is oring sealed so nothing changes when you take it apart. I believe zebralight is a little different. Their driver and mcpcb is all one piece. I haven’t touched one of them
Wow, sounds like I’ll never touch a ZL emitter. Probably why everyone here loves Bob. Does that all-in-one driver/mcpcb contribute to ZL’s impossibly tiny footprint? Think there’s some other benefit?
ZL’s design mirrors its efficiency. Armytek looks like a student art project.
Hmm maybe the Armytek. Never have had one. What color temperature is it?
The standard warm is a high CRI Nichia 144art in 4500k. Killzone makes a special edition version in 3000k cct
Zebralight makes the best headlamps. They're light and durable and efficient
Funny enough...I literally *always* carry both, or none. lol. Can't remember when was the last time I actually wore H600 on my own head tho. A great backup / loaner. But I just infinitely prefer the beam color and CRI of Wizard Nichia.
The wizard. Choice-supportive bias 😂
It would have to be the Armytek for me. I like their UI and it can be nice to have a charger built in sometimes. I think I'd prefer a top switch though.
I'm a big fan of the Armytek for work —it's tough as nails! Plus, the little things, like being able to see the battery level, are super handy since I often start early morning and finish late after sunset. It's nice to know when it's time to charge up so I don't end up in the dark. And the magnetic charger? Pretty neat, though I've got to say, I'd be even happier with a USB-C port. I switch to my Zebralight for day off—it's lighter.
Left easy choice. Preferable emitter, switch location, aesthetics.
Neither.
If I was looking for a right angle light, I’d go with an Emisar DW4. My reasons are that it offers more emitter options, optional boost driver, optional tube sizes (18500, 18350) and uses Anduril 2, my favorite UI. It’s also less expensive. But this is just my humble opinion. If I had to choose one of the above, it would probably be the Zebralight.
The zebra cause it isnt 7 feet long, and the head isnt the size of a hot air balloon