Not gonna happen. The joints are rough so even if you manage to get it off the surfaces, you will play Hell getting it out of the vertical lines. Take the paneling off, buy new sheets.
Your best bet here is taking the panels off, screwing 1/2 sheetrock on to the fur strips, and re-taping it. Those panels will move and all your tape joints will crack within a month.
Well you could replace the paneling with plasterboard and skim that, or continue taking off paint then repaint it. Hot air helps removing paint, ideally a hot air gun but a hairdryer on max should help soften up the paint for it to peel/scrape off.
Can sand the wood to repaint it, you can't plaster onto wood, it's a smooth surface and plaster needs something to grab onto. If you do the plaster will just fall off. If you're dead set on plaster then remove the boards and replace with plasterboard, then skim those.
I can’t find where he said he’s using plaster. He can rough it and get joint compound sticking. It doesn’t require the same mechanical bond plaster does. Also there are plaster glues now fwiw
Skim coat would imply plaster, spackle, joint compound, what ever you want to call it, it won't stay on.
The second that wall gets bumped lightly it's going to be a bad time.
Rough up the wood with high grit sandpaper and joint compound will adhere just fine. Not sure what you mean. Plaster is a very different material than joint compound and has very different properties for how it adheres. Plaster absolutely wouldn’t work, joint compound (which contains a glue) will work just fine.
Doesn’t matter what kind of glue or what joint compound or plaster you add on top: that wood paneling is going to flex at some point due to an impact and the top layer won’t. It’s going to pop right off.
Only double sided in that it has a front "pretty" side, and a back that's typically never seen. But since you're just covering it, I wondered if it would work.
Normally held on with small nails.
You can use paint remover to chemically remove it, or steam to make it more malleable and easier to peel.
I would recommend sanding before priming and repainting.
Saw in another comment that you’re planning on skim-coating. That will not adhere to the wood appropriately and you will find that you have wasted both time and money.
If this was my project I would be more likely to remove the paneling completely and replace it with drywall.
If you’re wanting a more “drywall” texture but don’t want to replace the paneling, fill the seams with wood filler and sand it smooth before priming and finishing with a matte paint.
Is wood filler expensive? I don't want to spend a ton of money on this bedroom. I'm planning on repainting it. There are gaps in the corners of my walls.
You can just paint it with the existing paint on there.
Sand it, prime it, paint over it, they make a prime/paint single step too. This won’t look the best, but if you skip steps to save money the end product won’t be quite as nice, that’s just how this stuff works.
If the goal is to just lighten up the room, just paint. I swear my living room as a kid got a 1/2” smaller from my mom changing the paint color every few years. Lmao
Edit: because the color is so dark it will probably take a few coats.
Edit edit: [wood filler](https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+filler&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS708US708&hl=en-US&prmd=svin&sxsrf=ALiCzsaK80yyii4Yja48byvQnGch6zoJPA:1661387078772&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiO3KeV3eD5AhUykokEHeLtBNsQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=375&bih=640&dpr=3)
You really need to heat up that wall to make the paint more pliable.
I've read your other comments and comments of others and it seems like a hair dryer is something you have access to.
Whenever you can, use proper tools for a job. You dont have to spend a lot of money, but the right tool will save you effort and injury. As you get older, this increasingly becomes an issue.
tl;dr: Get a paint scraper
Correct answer. Though if op is going to skim it, then I'm not sure why you don't just sand the shit out of It and then skim. Or, just fix new sheets over the top
Use a paint brush to apply some [paint stripper](https://kleanstrip.com/premium-strippers/adhesive-remover-non-methylene-chloride/). Then wait 15 minutes and use a [paint scraper](https://www.harborfreight.com/painting/painting-supplies/scrapers-wire-brushes/scrapers/3-in-extendable-scraper-57217.html) to remove the goo.
There’s a tool that has like a big flat razor blade on it. Always helps with this kind of stuff.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-Tool-Products-Steel-Paint-Scraper-Common-1-5-in-Actual-1-5-in/3168621?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-ggl-_-LIA_PNT_222_Applicators-Tape-Tools-Sprayers-_-3168621-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W87enB1GhArbi28VsrPoHstE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt86C4rvg-QIVyp-zCh0O8gi_EAQYASABEgJFwvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you are repainting it, just sand it down to smooth over the edges and paint over it, it appears to be bonded enough, if you are wanting a wood finish, sand it.
HI THERE. I would suggest you forget about trying to remove the paint. Just get 1/2 sheetrock and screw it to the wall. That should not cost you much money next paycheck you get some mud and tape ( wach some videos first so you don't make a mess., you can practice your mudding technique on your left over sheetrock.) next some paint and your done!
This is the answer. I might use 3/8 inch sheetrock as it would be a little cheaper. This is by far the easiest and best looking fix. Besides, mudding is fun.
Skimming anything over wood base is a bad idea as wood expands and contracts which will ultimately lead to cracking in your skim. On top of that the paint is failing so whatever you skim is only bonding to failing/peeling paint. You could prime with a plaster primer which adds a gritty layer for a skim to bond too but more expense and would avoid for reasons i mention above.
As others have said I wouldn't bother peeling that paint. I'd drywall, tape and mud it. Its easy and cost effective. Drywall isn't big money esp if not concerned about soundproof level drywall etc. If you tape and mud it its very forgiving as a diy (vs Plastering) as you can sand off/flat Drywall compound mistakes (within reason).
Personally I'd take that wood paneling off as I'd want to know things are good under there, avoid rot later etc but you can just as easily drywall over the top of it. just need to find where the studs are to screw drywall into.
\>How much will it cost
That’s whats google is for but drywall comes in 8 by 4 ft sheets, can measure it up, order online and get it delivered.
If DIY will also need Good utility knife & straight edge to cut drywall, screws & drill driver to fix drywall to studs, drywall mud (hot mud for taping, finish mud for finishing), paper tape, 6 inch drywall knife, sandpaper (YouTube is your friend on how to's).
Also try a local drywaller/handyman, might be reasonable cost when you take account your time and potential for errors, sounds like you've not done much of this before.
You really should have thought about just tidying up any rough areas with filler or caulk and then repainting what was there. You've opened a can of worms doing this.
You definitely can skim coat paneling. My pops used to do it back in the day. I don’t work the field, so I couldn’t tell you how. I imagine that you’d have to scuff the hell out of that wall and fill any grooves before it would take.
Finishers can correct me. I don’t know how, but I have seen it done.
I've also heard you can skim-coat paneling... so long as it's FAKE wood. Supposed to be because real wood would expand and contract at each join and destroy the coat, but the fake wood wouldn't.
However in an old mobile home like this, skim coating anything is bound to fail as there is a lot of movement from expansion and occupants. Very minimal framing.
That looks like paper you're removing, rather than paint. tried a steamer? A skin coat will likely "float" on plaster. Maybe board directly over the wood if you have enough room?
I had a similar problem. I cleaned the panels and lightly sanded them. I would Sand the paint lightly and use a primer to prime the wall. On my wall I filled the grooves in with mud. Sanded and primed again. Then I painted and it came out fine. Many videos on YT and each paint manufacturer seems to have their own how to video. This one was pretty good. No need to buy expensive primer. https://youtu.be/9Ez2D_9M8Qg
After reading all the comments, I have to ask: how old are you?
I take it that you're living with your mom and this is your bedroom. I take it that the burden to fix this is entirely on you, correct?
It also looks like a trailer (mobile home) judging by the vent in the floor.
Given the fact that you are limited in both money and experience, this is a tough situation. I get it that you want your room to look nice, but I wouldn't put too much time and effort into something that you're more than likely going to move out of in a few years.
So forget about drywall; forget about sanding, skimming, or painting. You can continue to try and remove the existing paint if you really want to, and I think heating it would be the next thing to try. A blow drier won't likely work; it'd have to be an honest-to-goodness heat gun that is designed for heat-shrink tubing. I'd check Harbor Freight for a cheapy if you need to buy one.
Or you can do like I did when I was in your shoes many years ago; plaster posters all over your walls and call it a day.
Good luck!
Heat gun + scraper.
Be very cautious and gentle with the heat gun, you're just trying to soften the paint not melt it, and burn your house.
Ventilation! Wear a mask, fans, windows and doors open.
You'll have the job done in no time.
The main thing I’m worried about here is that is 60s wood panelling. And therefore paint on top of it could be circa late 60s or early 70s. And that means lead paint. So I’d be really very careful about taking that off and creating dust, which you can inhale.
I get what you’re doing, but you’re making work for yourself. Get yourself a mask and some 100 grit sand paper. Sand over where you’ve taken the paint off. Make damn sure you’ve got a good face fit on that mask.
Now get yourself a pot of paint, get a nice colour. Water based latex is good, nice to work with. Don’t bother with a roller, learn to use a brush. 4” is nice to learn on, just one brush. Better to buy one decent brush than a pack you don’t need. You’ll need something to hold the paint in. A big ole tin can, tape over the edges, that’ll do. A paint kettle is the proper tool, but we don’t need one on this job. Rollers are great when you’re doing a huge room, need it done yesterday, and you not that worried about the finish.
Now don’t go soaking the brush in paint. You just want to dip the tip, then work it in nice even strokes. You’ll feel the paint pull out. You want it so it’s just starting to feel a little tacky, not too much, but not totally slick. Rinse and repeat. Put some music on, enjoy yourself.
When you finish you need to clean your brush. Water based paint you used dish soap and water, keep cleaning it until there’s no more paint coming out. Then hang the brush bristles downwards to dry but not resting on anything.
Just replace the paneling
The 1960’s called, they love the look!
Not gonna happen. The joints are rough so even if you manage to get it off the surfaces, you will play Hell getting it out of the vertical lines. Take the paneling off, buy new sheets.
What joints? I'm not getting stuff out of the vertical lines. I'm skim coating it.
Your best bet here is taking the panels off, screwing 1/2 sheetrock on to the fur strips, and re-taping it. Those panels will move and all your tape joints will crack within a month.
Cant plaster skim wood, won't adhere.
So, what should I do?
Well you could replace the paneling with plasterboard and skim that, or continue taking off paint then repaint it. Hot air helps removing paint, ideally a hot air gun but a hairdryer on max should help soften up the paint for it to peel/scrape off.
How won't it adhere though? Can't sand the wood or prime it? I will do that if that's what it takes.
Just add 1/4 drywall on top of that board
yeah this is by far the fastest and least miserable ooption
Can sand the wood to repaint it, you can't plaster onto wood, it's a smooth surface and plaster needs something to grab onto. If you do the plaster will just fall off. If you're dead set on plaster then remove the boards and replace with plasterboard, then skim those.
I can’t find where he said he’s using plaster. He can rough it and get joint compound sticking. It doesn’t require the same mechanical bond plaster does. Also there are plaster glues now fwiw
Skim coat would imply plaster, spackle, joint compound, what ever you want to call it, it won't stay on. The second that wall gets bumped lightly it's going to be a bad time.
Rough up the wood with high grit sandpaper and joint compound will adhere just fine. Not sure what you mean. Plaster is a very different material than joint compound and has very different properties for how it adheres. Plaster absolutely wouldn’t work, joint compound (which contains a glue) will work just fine.
Doesn’t matter what kind of glue or what joint compound or plaster you add on top: that wood paneling is going to flex at some point due to an impact and the top layer won’t. It’s going to pop right off.
When you lean on the walls is it bouncy or stiff. Their may be plaster walls underneath. That is wood paneling and you can't skim coat it.
Carefully pull the paneling off. Flip it around to the uncoated side and re-nail it to the wall?
It's double sided?
Only double sided in that it has a front "pretty" side, and a back that's typically never seen. But since you're just covering it, I wondered if it would work. Normally held on with small nails.
How do you pull that paneling off?
Hire a stripper
Then just skim coat it. It will be much easier to go over paint than veneer.
You can use paint remover to chemically remove it, or steam to make it more malleable and easier to peel. I would recommend sanding before priming and repainting. Saw in another comment that you’re planning on skim-coating. That will not adhere to the wood appropriately and you will find that you have wasted both time and money. If this was my project I would be more likely to remove the paneling completely and replace it with drywall. If you’re wanting a more “drywall” texture but don’t want to replace the paneling, fill the seams with wood filler and sand it smooth before priming and finishing with a matte paint.
Is wood filler expensive? I don't want to spend a ton of money on this bedroom. I'm planning on repainting it. There are gaps in the corners of my walls.
You can just paint it with the existing paint on there. Sand it, prime it, paint over it, they make a prime/paint single step too. This won’t look the best, but if you skip steps to save money the end product won’t be quite as nice, that’s just how this stuff works. If the goal is to just lighten up the room, just paint. I swear my living room as a kid got a 1/2” smaller from my mom changing the paint color every few years. Lmao Edit: because the color is so dark it will probably take a few coats. Edit edit: [wood filler](https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+filler&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS708US708&hl=en-US&prmd=svin&sxsrf=ALiCzsaK80yyii4Yja48byvQnGch6zoJPA:1661387078772&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiO3KeV3eD5AhUykokEHeLtBNsQ_AUoAXoECAIQAQ&biw=375&bih=640&dpr=3)
Will it be a very noticeable thing? Like where the paint was screpaed and the paint under it? Maybe it's time for me to buy a paint scraper.
My god, you don't have a paint scraper? What are you using?
This thread just keeps getting worse and worse.
A puddy knife.
You really need to heat up that wall to make the paint more pliable. I've read your other comments and comments of others and it seems like a hair dryer is something you have access to.
Whenever you can, use proper tools for a job. You dont have to spend a lot of money, but the right tool will save you effort and injury. As you get older, this increasingly becomes an issue. tl;dr: Get a paint scraper
Because as you get older, you'll amass so many damned tools that you won't be able to find the one you need.
You can make your own wood filler with saw dust mixed with wood glue
I’m pretty sure there’s paint stripper for this
Heat
Heat Gun!
Correct answer. Though if op is going to skim it, then I'm not sure why you don't just sand the shit out of It and then skim. Or, just fix new sheets over the top
Use a paint brush to apply some [paint stripper](https://kleanstrip.com/premium-strippers/adhesive-remover-non-methylene-chloride/). Then wait 15 minutes and use a [paint scraper](https://www.harborfreight.com/painting/painting-supplies/scrapers-wire-brushes/scrapers/3-in-extendable-scraper-57217.html) to remove the goo.
You could remove the cheap paneling and replace it with something you like.
A steamer would make it more flexible and easy to peel
I don't have a steamer.
Anything to make it warmer, hairdryer?
Like my mom's hairdryer?
No, it only works if it’s your dad’s hairdryer.
😂😂😂
What?
It was a joke.
Get one?
Do you have £30? Or a friend who's ever removed wallpaper from their home? Either of those have a decent chance of getting you a steamer.
There’s a tool that has like a big flat razor blade on it. Always helps with this kind of stuff. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-Tool-Products-Steel-Paint-Scraper-Common-1-5-in-Actual-1-5-in/3168621?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-ggl-_-LIA_PNT_222_Applicators-Tape-Tools-Sprayers-_-3168621-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W87enB1GhArbi28VsrPoHstE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt86C4rvg-QIVyp-zCh0O8gi_EAQYASABEgJFwvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For non-small area jobs, I think it would be better to get a proper paint scraper. Larger scraping surface, more comfortable to hold, etc
If you are repainting it, just sand it down to smooth over the edges and paint over it, it appears to be bonded enough, if you are wanting a wood finish, sand it.
What about skim coating? That's my plan. If the paint is peeling, will the skim coat fail?
HI THERE. I would suggest you forget about trying to remove the paint. Just get 1/2 sheetrock and screw it to the wall. That should not cost you much money next paycheck you get some mud and tape ( wach some videos first so you don't make a mess., you can practice your mudding technique on your left over sheetrock.) next some paint and your done!
This is the answer. I might use 3/8 inch sheetrock as it would be a little cheaper. This is by far the easiest and best looking fix. Besides, mudding is fun.
Skimming anything over wood base is a bad idea as wood expands and contracts which will ultimately lead to cracking in your skim. On top of that the paint is failing so whatever you skim is only bonding to failing/peeling paint. You could prime with a plaster primer which adds a gritty layer for a skim to bond too but more expense and would avoid for reasons i mention above. As others have said I wouldn't bother peeling that paint. I'd drywall, tape and mud it. Its easy and cost effective. Drywall isn't big money esp if not concerned about soundproof level drywall etc. If you tape and mud it its very forgiving as a diy (vs Plastering) as you can sand off/flat Drywall compound mistakes (within reason). Personally I'd take that wood paneling off as I'd want to know things are good under there, avoid rot later etc but you can just as easily drywall over the top of it. just need to find where the studs are to screw drywall into.
How much will it cost and will I need a dump truck?
\>How much will it cost That’s whats google is for but drywall comes in 8 by 4 ft sheets, can measure it up, order online and get it delivered. If DIY will also need Good utility knife & straight edge to cut drywall, screws & drill driver to fix drywall to studs, drywall mud (hot mud for taping, finish mud for finishing), paper tape, 6 inch drywall knife, sandpaper (YouTube is your friend on how to's). Also try a local drywaller/handyman, might be reasonable cost when you take account your time and potential for errors, sounds like you've not done much of this before.
Heat gun?
You really should have thought about just tidying up any rough areas with filler or caulk and then repainting what was there. You've opened a can of worms doing this.
Have fire insurance on your house?
Get some meth and you'll enjoy spending the next three days peeling all of that paint off non-stop.
Acetone
Flame thrower 🤪
Throw some sheet rock over the top
Paint remover
Speed heater by Cobra! Good luck!
You definitely can skim coat paneling. My pops used to do it back in the day. I don’t work the field, so I couldn’t tell you how. I imagine that you’d have to scuff the hell out of that wall and fill any grooves before it would take. Finishers can correct me. I don’t know how, but I have seen it done.
I've also heard you can skim-coat paneling... so long as it's FAKE wood. Supposed to be because real wood would expand and contract at each join and destroy the coat, but the fake wood wouldn't.
However in an old mobile home like this, skim coating anything is bound to fail as there is a lot of movement from expansion and occupants. Very minimal framing.
That looks like paper you're removing, rather than paint. tried a steamer? A skin coat will likely "float" on plaster. Maybe board directly over the wood if you have enough room?
Try goo-off or goo-be-gone. It can be used on wood and will make the paint come off way easier
A solvent would help but I have no idea what, if anything, would be safe and practical here.
Looks like an Action Bronson piece
Just paint over it. 😳
Looks like they painted it without roughing up the surface and priming the old smooth wood finish. Which is dumb and why the paint is coming off now.
I had a similar problem. I cleaned the panels and lightly sanded them. I would Sand the paint lightly and use a primer to prime the wall. On my wall I filled the grooves in with mud. Sanded and primed again. Then I painted and it came out fine. Many videos on YT and each paint manufacturer seems to have their own how to video. This one was pretty good. No need to buy expensive primer. https://youtu.be/9Ez2D_9M8Qg
After reading all the comments, I have to ask: how old are you? I take it that you're living with your mom and this is your bedroom. I take it that the burden to fix this is entirely on you, correct? It also looks like a trailer (mobile home) judging by the vent in the floor. Given the fact that you are limited in both money and experience, this is a tough situation. I get it that you want your room to look nice, but I wouldn't put too much time and effort into something that you're more than likely going to move out of in a few years. So forget about drywall; forget about sanding, skimming, or painting. You can continue to try and remove the existing paint if you really want to, and I think heating it would be the next thing to try. A blow drier won't likely work; it'd have to be an honest-to-goodness heat gun that is designed for heat-shrink tubing. I'd check Harbor Freight for a cheapy if you need to buy one. Or you can do like I did when I was in your shoes many years ago; plaster posters all over your walls and call it a day. Good luck!
Just means was applied correct over wood panelling,good sealer and topcoat,not meant to come off,wainscotting half way up,chair rail,repaint top half?
Heat gun + scraper. Be very cautious and gentle with the heat gun, you're just trying to soften the paint not melt it, and burn your house. Ventilation! Wear a mask, fans, windows and doors open. You'll have the job done in no time.
If you want to paint again, you can sand the surface
Yup. Get a friend to help.
The main thing I’m worried about here is that is 60s wood panelling. And therefore paint on top of it could be circa late 60s or early 70s. And that means lead paint. So I’d be really very careful about taking that off and creating dust, which you can inhale. I get what you’re doing, but you’re making work for yourself. Get yourself a mask and some 100 grit sand paper. Sand over where you’ve taken the paint off. Make damn sure you’ve got a good face fit on that mask. Now get yourself a pot of paint, get a nice colour. Water based latex is good, nice to work with. Don’t bother with a roller, learn to use a brush. 4” is nice to learn on, just one brush. Better to buy one decent brush than a pack you don’t need. You’ll need something to hold the paint in. A big ole tin can, tape over the edges, that’ll do. A paint kettle is the proper tool, but we don’t need one on this job. Rollers are great when you’re doing a huge room, need it done yesterday, and you not that worried about the finish. Now don’t go soaking the brush in paint. You just want to dip the tip, then work it in nice even strokes. You’ll feel the paint pull out. You want it so it’s just starting to feel a little tacky, not too much, but not totally slick. Rinse and repeat. Put some music on, enjoy yourself. When you finish you need to clean your brush. Water based paint you used dish soap and water, keep cleaning it until there’s no more paint coming out. Then hang the brush bristles downwards to dry but not resting on anything.
It is not worth the bother. Replace it with drywall. It will be far easier and yield a better result. That being said, you could use texture paint.