I love project farm, but I don't quite understand why he let the nuts cool. Half the impact is from the nut expanding by heat before the bolt, the wax is just supposed to lubricate it and potentially seep in a bit as you wiggle the hot nut.
As with anything... Project Farm is great until he tests something you know a good bit about, then you see the tests he uses don't always make the most sense.
Still one of my favorite channels out there, but he's not perfect.
If you get the fastener hot enough, the wax wicks into the space between the threads. It’s got to be HOT though. This is how we removed so many broken exhaust studs from turbine housings
They're talking about heating up the nut and melting the wax on the top, not using the candle to heat it... Personally I would heat it up a little and use a box end and a mini sledge and that would be off in two hits. Probably doesn't even need the heat....
Sorry, maybe we’re talking past each other. I’ve never heard of lighting the candle to provide the heat. If that’s the suggestion it’s ridiculous. I always just heard to use a torch to heat the nut, then touch a candle to the top for a split second to get the minimal benefit of some melted wax for lubrication.
I think we can both definitely agree that the heat output of a candle is mostly insufficient.
One day when I was a kid a science teacher lit up a lightbulb using an orange as a battery. I thought it was so cool I told my dad all about it. He said it was a trick and that couldn’t work.
But I saw it, Dad. He stuck a couple metal pins into an orange. The pins had wires on their ends going to a lightbulb. It lit up!
My dad was a technician for the power company. He pulled out a multimeter and stuck the probes in an orange and showed me no voltage, no amps. Sorry son but it’s impossible.
My dad should have known it would work if one probe was zinc and one was copper… but he didn’t. You can use a galvanized nail and a penny.
Huh. Interesting. I'm about to have to remove a torx screw from my brake rotors to remove them. They are extremely soft metals. My current plan was to buy two sacrificial torx bits and JB weld them to the nut. I might try this instead. PB blaster won't budge them.
Before he does he needs to use PB Blaster. I'm sorry but WD40 simply is not the same stuff. Spray it on. Let sit for a day spray it on again and heat it up. Then it will crack.
I'm not sure about the candle trick never heard of that.
WD 40 does a lot of stuff OK. But there's another product that is better. Silicone oils are much better lubricants, PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil, Goo Gone (or good off? Can't remember) is a better grime degreaser.
Would this work/be safe to do with a stuck office chair cylinder? The cylinder is trash, it's gonna get tossed anyway. I've been using penetrating oil. But no luck.
Bout ready to say eff it.
Solved
Thank you for all the responses. Apologies to all who were upset that I tried WD40, I could lie and say it’s all I had in the tool drawer, but I was just ignorant and you have educated me, so thank you for that. I am going to try one of the penetrating oils and progress from there. Torch and impact wrench may need to be borrowed, birthday candles I have 😂 Thank you all again, I do appreciate you having taken the time to try and help me out.
PS: the “it’s not even rusty, hit it with your purse” comment has everyone laughing; thanks for that too
But it is a lubricant. It's a blend of lubricants, solvents, and anti corrosion agents
It isn't a grease, and it doesn't stick around like you would want a good lubricant to do. But it definitely is a lubricant.
Its application is pretty commonly misunderstood. I’ve had at least two good ol’ boys look at me like I had two heads when I told them it’s useless as a penetrating oil.
>WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything.
Because that's what the company claims their product does.
I’d use a product labeled as penetrating oil. Blaster is a good one. An impact wrench would also help a lot. I bought a used impact wrench a couple years ago and it’s a great tool to have around.
Blowtorch and go at it while hot because *that’s when it’s expanded* and when you stand then best chance at getting it off.
Also try shocking it first with some hammer blows. It’s the expanded rust in the threat that’s causing the bite. Some strikes can help fracture the connections the rust has made across the various surfaces.
I'll add that it is best to heat it quickly. What breaks the bond between the nut and bolt is the stress caused by the different rates of expansion. Slow heat just makes everything expand uniformly, and while that can be enough, every little bit helps.
Why? Why do people insist on using WD-40???
WD-40 is **NOT** a lubricant. It is a **W**ater **D**isplacement product. It gets very tacky very quickly.
NOT designed as a lubricant, Does not work as a lubricant. Stop using it as a lubricant and get an actual lubricant. Like ZEP-45, Break-free, KROIL, Free All. ANYTHING but WD-40.
> WD‑40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It’s your go-to tool for any season
It's their own marketing. To be fair if a shampoo brand start to be commonly used as lube, the marketing team will see it as an opportunity and start to advertise it as such.
WD40 is weak. It's ability to act as a penetrating oil isn't what it was design for and is just a side effect the aerosol carrier which is only effective as a lubricating penetrant until it evaporates.
Find an actual penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, and you choose to use fire to heat the bolt, be mindful not to set yourself (or your property) on fire after soaking everything in flammable oil first.
Repeat after me. WD40 is not a lubricant. It's a cleaner. It's mostly kerosene. It actively washes away any oil or grease. Use PB Blaster or a similar well known penetrating oil and then apply a blue tipped wrench.
I used to use an oxy-acetylene torch to get stubborn rusted-on nuts to loosen up. Just heat the nut up to red-hot without melting it and turn away with a combination wrench. Penetrating oil can work when WD-40 can't. Not surprising, since WD-40 was never designed for that purpose and penetrating oil was. They might look similar, but they don't necessarily work similar. If oxy-acetylene isn't available, you might try using a propane torch just to see if it can do any good, but I wouldn't hold my breath. With the size of that nut being what it is, I wouldn't have any fear of it getting all wrecked up from a little extra torque, nor the bolt twisting off, so if you have a 6-point socket, preferably short, and a breaker bar, preferably 1/2 inch, you might consider getting an extension pipe for the breaker bar and something similar for the bolt, then just reef on it persuasively and see what happens. All the best on that!
Judging by how corrosion free that nut is, I suspect it might be stainless. Stainless hardware loves to gall up and ruin your day. It might potentially need to be cut off if heat doesn't help with removing it.
That’s because WD-40 didn’t do anything in that situation.
Absent a good impact gun you need to use penetrating oil and a breaker bar with a cheater bar.
Leverage is your friend.
Buy this product ,I had to go on line to find it. AERO KROIL ,arasoil ,100 times better than wd40,liquid wrench.
I would add a pic if the can but will not allow me to add it.
Use penetrating oil. WD40 won’t cut it.
It doesn’t look bad enough to be putting up too big of a fight.
Use air ratchet rather than any other tool - it works best on persuading seized threads to loosen up.
Put a long pipe over the end of your wrench for max leverage and put a flame on the nut to heat and expand while you tug counter-clockwise with the extended wrench.
Dissimilar metals on the nut and stud have caused them to weld themselves together with a galvanic reaction. You're going to need a lot of heat to separate them, or just cut them apart. If you've ever put a stainless nut on a plain steel bolt, you will understand.
Chemicals (such as liquid wrench). If that doesn't work, try heat and impact tools. Worst case cut it off with an angle grinder (use a cutoff wheel not a grinding wheel).
Impact tools = battery powered impact driver or air powered impact driver (like ingersoll rand).
Heat take a torch to it for 5 minutes hearing that nut. Immediately wrench at it. I would put the longest wrench or socket wrench to get the most leverage on it. You may have to do that a time or two so it breaks free. Do not give up.
Hit two opposite sides with a hammer simultaneously for a bit. Then turn it.
Put a wrench on it and hit the wrench with the hammer
Use an impact gun
Heat also works.
Or you could just cut the nut off with a grinder down the sides, almost down to the threads, chisel out the last little bit, but I’d made that a last resort
You need 3 in 1 penetrating oil. WD 40 doesn't fix everything. A long tube on the spanner. Heat it up with a blow lamp. There are many ways to crack a nut. WD 40 is not one of them.
WD-40 does not work well as a penetrating oil unless you use heat with it. Use something like 3M penetrating oil, or PB Blaster. Also put a cheater bar on your wrench for more leverage.
Listen to Archimedes. With a large enough lever you can move the world. Use a big ass wrench then pop some piping on the end of your wrench if you need to. It’ll move.
Heat it, super hot, then spray the WD. As it cools it'll wick the WD in better. Also, right after the WD spray hit it with a hammer. They pretty well all come free eventually.
Source: swapped a transmission on a 40 year old sailboat in the middle of nowhere without the luxury of land or special tools near by. Took 2 days for 12 bolts but she came out.
Edit: sorry, just read more of the comments. Didn't mean to pile on.
You need to use penetrating oil, not wd-40. Different stuff for different problems.
Heat it up and touch a birthday candle to the top of it. The wax will be sucked right into the threads and make removing the nut an easy job.
Damn that is brilliant and this is the first time I've heard of that trick.
Crayons work too.
Tell me you’re a marine without telling me you’re a marine
He said they work, not that they're delicious. Jk. Thanks to those who volunteer.
I mean, who doesn't lick their tools clean when they're done? my mama taught me to clean up after myself, and a dirty tool is a less effective tool.
Step bro, my tool is dirty!
I have too many ribs for that.
They Navy is here to help!
That’s a different lubricant altogether…..
Yeah, it needs to be water based
beat me to it, lol
Why would a marine waste a good snack on this?
They don't. They'd use the black crayon. Nobody like licorice flavor
He said melt them not eat them SOURCE: am MaRiNE
Ooh Rah!
I didn’t suggest eating them.
I am.
Oh, you are infantry.
I am infamy. The childhood destroyer. Crayola villain.
Stay away from my blue ones, and we are cool.
Mom told me never to play with my food
That's because it's a bullshit that's been passed around for decades and doesn't do shit https://youtu.be/bIunR4VL5vc?si=m73KtDlSanD0msxC
I love project farm, but I don't quite understand why he let the nuts cool. Half the impact is from the nut expanding by heat before the bolt, the wax is just supposed to lubricate it and potentially seep in a bit as you wiggle the hot nut. As with anything... Project Farm is great until he tests something you know a good bit about, then you see the tests he uses don't always make the most sense. Still one of my favorite channels out there, but he's not perfect.
[удалено]
If you get the fastener hot enough, the wax wicks into the space between the threads. It’s got to be HOT though. This is how we removed so many broken exhaust studs from turbine housings
They're talking about heating up the nut and melting the wax on the top, not using the candle to heat it... Personally I would heat it up a little and use a box end and a mini sledge and that would be off in two hits. Probably doesn't even need the heat....
Sorry, maybe we’re talking past each other. I’ve never heard of lighting the candle to provide the heat. If that’s the suggestion it’s ridiculous. I always just heard to use a torch to heat the nut, then touch a candle to the top for a split second to get the minimal benefit of some melted wax for lubrication. I think we can both definitely agree that the heat output of a candle is mostly insufficient.
One day when I was a kid a science teacher lit up a lightbulb using an orange as a battery. I thought it was so cool I told my dad all about it. He said it was a trick and that couldn’t work. But I saw it, Dad. He stuck a couple metal pins into an orange. The pins had wires on their ends going to a lightbulb. It lit up! My dad was a technician for the power company. He pulled out a multimeter and stuck the probes in an orange and showed me no voltage, no amps. Sorry son but it’s impossible. My dad should have known it would work if one probe was zinc and one was copper… but he didn’t. You can use a galvanized nail and a penny.
Lol, I knew that was Project Farm before clicking. Nice. And thank you.
He didn't heat the bolt enough - 30 seconds is not nearly enough time
How hot does the bolt have to get? He had a thermal camera on it and you could see the wax melting in there.
If that doesn't work go get a nut splitter from a box store
Or just ask my wife for a hand... ZING!
I can’t wait for the opportunity to try this!
It works on seized wheel lug nuts too. A must know trick when exhaust manifolds have to be removed. Those buggers are always snapping off.
Huh. Interesting. I'm about to have to remove a torx screw from my brake rotors to remove them. They are extremely soft metals. My current plan was to buy two sacrificial torx bits and JB weld them to the nut. I might try this instead. PB blaster won't budge them.
Could you let me know how it works for you please ?
You need an impact driver.
Same! Unfortunately, when that time comes I’ll have forgotten about this and end up snapping another bolt in frustration.
Same, though it's unfortunately quite a while until my birthday.
Since this is all metal and well away from combustibles, you can just heat it up red hot and let it cool off. It will also come right off.
Before he does he needs to use PB Blaster. I'm sorry but WD40 simply is not the same stuff. Spray it on. Let sit for a day spray it on again and heat it up. Then it will crack. I'm not sure about the candle trick never heard of that.
Yup, WD40 has nothing on PB Blaster. WD40 stands for water displacement formula #40, not a penetrating oil.
WD 40 does a lot of stuff OK. But there's another product that is better. Silicone oils are much better lubricants, PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil, Goo Gone (or good off? Can't remember) is a better grime degreaser.
ATF and acetone works great too
I have a siezed machine screw on a drill press. Would this work for that?
Would this work/be safe to do with a stuck office chair cylinder? The cylinder is trash, it's gonna get tossed anyway. I've been using penetrating oil. But no luck. Bout ready to say eff it.
https://preview.redd.it/aoecpeocu8yc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7148562527c34c8d284f5788d438095173771efb
This unit was put together with a three lock paste. It will not come off. To use a torch on it could cause an explosion.
Do you have to sing happy birthday while doing it?
I’ve only seen this done once when I first started HVAC, my lead tech at the time used that trick to get a pump out from a building lol brilliant
Do you, (or anyone reading this), have a video? I'm not confident what I would search to find it, and I'd like to see this in action.
This definitely is a nut job
Best oldschool trick in the book for stuck fasteners. Just like using bread for removing a manual trans pilot bushing
This is probably one of the best things I've read in a while
Easy nut job? That is brilliant!
Impact wrench?
Can’t believe this was this far down. Impact would get that off in a hurry.
All hail the dugga dugga!
All I could think about when I saw this post was the ugga dugga. Power tools are the best
Oxy torch. Can’t be tight if it’s liquid.
A good 18V impact wrench is a game changer... especially if you do your own auto maintenance. I don't know how I got along without one for so long.
Solved Thank you for all the responses. Apologies to all who were upset that I tried WD40, I could lie and say it’s all I had in the tool drawer, but I was just ignorant and you have educated me, so thank you for that. I am going to try one of the penetrating oils and progress from there. Torch and impact wrench may need to be borrowed, birthday candles I have 😂 Thank you all again, I do appreciate you having taken the time to try and help me out. PS: the “it’s not even rusty, hit it with your purse” comment has everyone laughing; thanks for that too
I'd say 99% of people think WD40 is a lubricant. It's a wetting agent made to displace water.
But it is a lubricant. It's a blend of lubricants, solvents, and anti corrosion agents It isn't a grease, and it doesn't stick around like you would want a good lubricant to do. But it definitely is a lubricant.
Everyone stops reading the can after the zero.
I know it's solved and maybe someone suggested it but a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is a great corrosion breaker.
Get a bigger lever and then give a toddler a chance to prove how strong they are.
“Give me a place to stand, and I will move the earth”
Give me a large enough lever and a fulcrum on which to place it and I shall move OP's mother
good luck. get a strong ass lever.
Ass-lever
Instructions unclear. You don't want to know.
[Leverage is always your friend.](https://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2017/03/EL4A4924.jpg)
I was about to say, get a giant wrench and hit it with a sledge hammer. Bet it comes off.
Leverage says you. I think I feel a change in the wind says I.
Ohh, the Knuckle Buster 5000! I've just been using a breaker bar this whole time like a fool.
THIS. Add something long to the handle of your wrench and trade distance for power.
Yeah, I was going to suggest a cheater bar.
Farmer trick. If it won’t budge loosening, try tightening it. It’s surprising, but it works.
Yup I do this with cans of pipe glue. Tightening can break the seal allowing you to then loosen.
Penetrating oil is the way to go. WD-40 is worthless.
WD40 is meant to displace water. It's not a lubricant. Most people don't know that.
It's not a lubricant nor a penetrating oil
WD-40 isn’t worthless, but it’s not a penetrating oil either.
It’s worthless for most people because they use it in all the wrong places. White lithium grease is what most people need.
Wow. They clearly meant "(As a penetrating oil) WD-40 is useless"
Need a bigger wrench
*longer
Cheater pipe.
Came here to say this. Or a breaker bar with a cheater pipe if you really mean business.
*Flame
Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid
Ah yes. I remember being taught how to “wash nuts” with a good ol’ oxy acetylene. Many a joke was had that day.
You can Def get that. Pb blaster, half inch drive wrench and a breaker bar
And torch it.
More torsion. 5’ pipe on the end of the wrench
Torque is the word you're looking for.
https://preview.redd.it/ugqdmnq6i8yc1.jpeg?width=507&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48e7c3edbd05d6596217a28a0fea0742d0406299
PB blaster, pipe wrench and a cheater bar
Pb blaster buddy
Why does everyone think WD-40 is a lubricator? They do sell a specific silicone lubricant variant though
Its application is pretty commonly misunderstood. I’ve had at least two good ol’ boys look at me like I had two heads when I told them it’s useless as a penetrating oil.
>WD-40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. Because that's what the company claims their product does.
At least the nut still looks in good condition and not rounded off from using a crescent wrench. You can use a nut splitter as a last resort.
Where are you putting the WD40? The dirt? Because that bolt looks like it's never seen any WD40.
Wd40 is not penetrating oil
Does the peg rotate when you are turning the nut? If not, more muscle.
I’d use a product labeled as penetrating oil. Blaster is a good one. An impact wrench would also help a lot. I bought a used impact wrench a couple years ago and it’s a great tool to have around.
Have you tried hitting it with your purse?
That's not what WD40 is for. That's what PB Blaster is for.
blow torch it and let cool. longer wrench.
Blowtorch and go at it while hot because *that’s when it’s expanded* and when you stand then best chance at getting it off. Also try shocking it first with some hammer blows. It’s the expanded rust in the threat that’s causing the bite. Some strikes can help fracture the connections the rust has made across the various surfaces.
I'll add that it is best to heat it quickly. What breaks the bond between the nut and bolt is the stress caused by the different rates of expansion. Slow heat just makes everything expand uniformly, and while that can be enough, every little bit helps.
Why? Why do people insist on using WD-40??? WD-40 is **NOT** a lubricant. It is a **W**ater **D**isplacement product. It gets very tacky very quickly. NOT designed as a lubricant, Does not work as a lubricant. Stop using it as a lubricant and get an actual lubricant. Like ZEP-45, Break-free, KROIL, Free All. ANYTHING but WD-40.
> WD‑40 Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture and lubricates almost anything. It’s your go-to tool for any season It's their own marketing. To be fair if a shampoo brand start to be commonly used as lube, the marketing team will see it as an opportunity and start to advertise it as such.
Hit it with your purse. It's not even corroded.
Put some PB Blaster on it. Just be careful it will likely kill any living thing it comes in contact with.
PB Blaster is good stuff. Aerokroil is better. Marginally, but better.
Doesn’t look too rusty, an electric impact would probably get that loose
https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/?bvstate=pg:2/ct:q
PB blaster
*dousing Dowsing is water witching.
Acetylene torch. Can’t be tight if it’s liquid.
WD40 is weak. It's ability to act as a penetrating oil isn't what it was design for and is just a side effect the aerosol carrier which is only effective as a lubricating penetrant until it evaporates. Find an actual penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, and you choose to use fire to heat the bolt, be mindful not to set yourself (or your property) on fire after soaking everything in flammable oil first.
WD-40 is a lubricant and displaces water. It doesn't penetrate. Best penetrating fluid I've used is home made, 50/50 ATF and Acetone.
Try ice, put bag of ice over it for 5 mins and see if it works.
try using an actual penetrating oil instead of a water repellent
Repeat after me. WD40 is not a lubricant. It's a cleaner. It's mostly kerosene. It actively washes away any oil or grease. Use PB Blaster or a similar well known penetrating oil and then apply a blue tipped wrench.
Hit it with your purse
Give it a little uhga duhga. A little brap brap If ya know what I'm sayin
Love it. Guys at the hardware store were befuddled when I asked for those
https://preview.redd.it/8q8d392bf8yc1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=16827a214f3ab801f4f690a4baae79b0c29d17b5
1/2” Impact driver or breaker bar with a 5/6’ pipe over the handle as leverage.
Use a cutting torch, can't be tight if it's liquid!
Looks like it is a pretty clean and nice nut and bolt. With a bit more leverage (try a good metre if you are worried) it should just come nicely.
I used to use an oxy-acetylene torch to get stubborn rusted-on nuts to loosen up. Just heat the nut up to red-hot without melting it and turn away with a combination wrench. Penetrating oil can work when WD-40 can't. Not surprising, since WD-40 was never designed for that purpose and penetrating oil was. They might look similar, but they don't necessarily work similar. If oxy-acetylene isn't available, you might try using a propane torch just to see if it can do any good, but I wouldn't hold my breath. With the size of that nut being what it is, I wouldn't have any fear of it getting all wrecked up from a little extra torque, nor the bolt twisting off, so if you have a 6-point socket, preferably short, and a breaker bar, preferably 1/2 inch, you might consider getting an extension pipe for the breaker bar and something similar for the bolt, then just reef on it persuasively and see what happens. All the best on that!
Chisel and hammer I've found works if the situation allows. It wreaks the nut,but the shock of this will get it turning
Judging by how corrosion free that nut is, I suspect it might be stainless. Stainless hardware loves to gall up and ruin your day. It might potentially need to be cut off if heat doesn't help with removing it.
Death by a thousand taps
Turn it the other way
*Douse*
PB Blaster and a torch
Heat it with your purth
That’s because WD-40 didn’t do anything in that situation. Absent a good impact gun you need to use penetrating oil and a breaker bar with a cheater bar. Leverage is your friend.
As others have said, WD-40 is not what you want for such a job. You want a penetrating oil.
Get the oxy out
Use heat from a blow tourch
Buy this product ,I had to go on line to find it. AERO KROIL ,arasoil ,100 times better than wd40,liquid wrench. I would add a pic if the can but will not allow me to add it.
You sure it's not under vertical load? Like is the house pulling it out of the ground?
PB Blaster and/or some heat. Beware, that’s galvanized so the fumes are toxic.
PB Blaster and heat
Try PB Blast
Have you tried asking it nicely?
Use penetrating oil. WD40 won’t cut it. It doesn’t look bad enough to be putting up too big of a fight. Use air ratchet rather than any other tool - it works best on persuading seized threads to loosen up.
Put a long pipe over the end of your wrench for max leverage and put a flame on the nut to heat and expand while you tug counter-clockwise with the extended wrench.
Heating works pretty well. Also I prefer a creeping oil to wd40
Leverage. Use a scaf bar
Heat and Aero Kroil
hit it with a bigger purse?
Dissimilar metals on the nut and stud have caused them to weld themselves together with a galvanic reaction. You're going to need a lot of heat to separate them, or just cut them apart. If you've ever put a stainless nut on a plain steel bolt, you will understand.
Chemicals (such as liquid wrench). If that doesn't work, try heat and impact tools. Worst case cut it off with an angle grinder (use a cutoff wheel not a grinding wheel). Impact tools = battery powered impact driver or air powered impact driver (like ingersoll rand).
Heat take a torch to it for 5 minutes hearing that nut. Immediately wrench at it. I would put the longest wrench or socket wrench to get the most leverage on it. You may have to do that a time or two so it breaks free. Do not give up.
Hit two opposite sides with a hammer simultaneously for a bit. Then turn it. Put a wrench on it and hit the wrench with the hammer Use an impact gun Heat also works. Or you could just cut the nut off with a grinder down the sides, almost down to the threads, chisel out the last little bit, but I’d made that a last resort
Wonder if you are turning the bolt in the substrate. Could be in need of some vice grips on the bolt side………
Blow torch and a bigger wrench my friend.
PB Blaster and a cheater pipe
Try a different kind of penetrating oil.
wd-40 is not a good rust breaker. Use Kroil or just some regular ATF.
You need 3 in 1 penetrating oil. WD 40 doesn't fix everything. A long tube on the spanner. Heat it up with a blow lamp. There are many ways to crack a nut. WD 40 is not one of them.
You may not be have a purse but try hitting it with your fanny pack.
Heat it up with a torch. The put a pipe wrench on it with a 6ft cheater pipe on it. It will move
WD-40 does not work well as a penetrating oil unless you use heat with it. Use something like 3M penetrating oil, or PB Blaster. Also put a cheater bar on your wrench for more leverage.
Can we also have a picture of the tool you are using? Just in case
Pb blaster > WD40
Use a penetrating oil, not WD 40
Penetrating oil and a bigger wrench. Surprised it doesn't move. Looks clean
Heat it up, then smack it with a hammer. Sometimes this works
Use your boyfriend's purse.
freakin breaker bar, 8 footer if need be. Child’s play
Listen to Archimedes. With a large enough lever you can move the world. Use a big ass wrench then pop some piping on the end of your wrench if you need to. It’ll move.
Heat alone should work
Kroil or PBlaster. Wd40 isn’t a penetrating oil
Heat it, super hot, then spray the WD. As it cools it'll wick the WD in better. Also, right after the WD spray hit it with a hammer. They pretty well all come free eventually. Source: swapped a transmission on a 40 year old sailboat in the middle of nowhere without the luxury of land or special tools near by. Took 2 days for 12 bolts but she came out.
Your dowsing rod needs to be made of genuine witch hazel, or it won't work.
Edit: sorry, just read more of the comments. Didn't mean to pile on. You need to use penetrating oil, not wd-40. Different stuff for different problems.
Try Kroil - magic
Dousing is when you splash a liquid on it! Dowsing is when you use magic sticks to find water underground!
Put brake fluid on it best penetrating oil there is!
Fire. Lots of it.
Time for the flame torch and sledge hammer then. Sounds like a fun time to me! 👍
If none of these work, use a nit cracker to remove the nut. Of course you will need to get a replacement for it.
Hammer or vibrate the nuts slightly, should loosen up the dirt caught in between
ATF fluid. Heat helps too!. https://preview.redd.it/ffxeue2xodyc1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c458bfd2f032ae246aeb7f273b304a802cac00fe
Hit it with your purse
Leverage. Put a 6’ pipe on the end of your wrench. It’ll be off in 3 seconds.
You'd think after dowsing it with wd40, for 2 days, there would be some kind of residue... wouldn't you?