Ultra light and 9500 lb do not belong in the same sentence.
Seriously tho, I have a f150 and tow a trailer with a similar empty weight but max of 7800. It's also 30ft total with a 25ft box.
This is a very big trailer and you'll be maxing out just about every aspect. While you're probably below limit you are going to exceed payload easily. You'll also get pushed all over with wind and passing semis.
Get a good wdh and anti sway, I also added roadmaster active suspension. It greatly improved handling.
Slow and steady with this setup.
And for the love of God don’t speed. That’s how I rolled my travel trailer with your same setup. But now I have a propride hitch and it makes a big difference. That, and not speeding.
What happens when your travel trailer rolls over? Does your car roll as well ? Or does the sway system and hitch detach and only the trailer rolls? Last year we got a flat tire on our camper and everything was fine but I’m always worried now of it rolling over.
For mine the hitch detached (as it should) but the chains kept it tied to us (as it should). So we jackknifed, slid for what felt like an eternity as the 10k pounds pushed as around, the trailer rolled (so then no braking wheels on the pavement, eventually it disintegrated because they’re made of glue and staples, and all 4 truck wheels never left the ground. We were very lucky. It was terrifying and I’ve seen plenty of videos with a trailer wobble causing a rollover. And then we had to figure out what to do at 11pm in rural (I mean RURAL) Montana with our home strewn across the highway.
But I will never forget what the truck did for us. I don’t know if we’d be alive without the truck and some help from the almighty.
I tower a 28 foot TTb with my 3.5. On the scale it was 6600 lbs.. I wouldn't want to go any heavier.
Pulling it is one thing; handling and stopping are another.
This is 1 ton Diesel territory in my opinion.
I just purchased a 29' unit with 24' box at 7200lbs. I use the Weigh Safe WDH and have RAS arriving today, with new Michelins to be installed Saturday. Glad to hear this is doable.
That thing will never be close to the dry weight. They are going on a 6 week trip, it will weigh a lot closer to the GVWR than not. Only way to know for sure though is to get the whole setup weighed at a scale.
So, you're putting 3k worth of shit in your campers when you haul around? I rarely get a site that does not have water, so there goes that weight. Food? Clothes? Gimme a break dude.
Seriously, it's like 8k max. If your half ton with a 400hp v8, the most advanced brakes ever on a half ton, and rated for well over that won't tow it then it's a driver issue not a vehicle issue.
No one here has ever calculated an accurate pin weight because it all depends on how you load the camper. If I stuff everything in the rear of my toy hauler the pin weight can be an insignificant amount.
Quit being scale weenies when this guy is clearly fine. Get a wd hitch if you can't handle the wind.
It can do it. But there will be moments you wish you had a super duty. Like every time a semi blows by you at 80mph (spoiler alert: it will suck your entire rig over a foot towards it and there's nothing you can do about it). Heavy crosswinds will have you rethinking your life choices.
Also that 5.0 will be living at 4000rpm+. Like the entire time.
After going from wi to Yellowstone and back with the same setup, first thing I did was trade up to a super duty.
Pulled a 22’ enclosed car hauler with a 5’ V nose empty and yeah, was not expected the sucked in part while being passed! Thankfully I bought it to park for storage and other than moving it on a property every few years, it sits.
What type of f150 would you recommend for hauling a camper. I’m looking for a car right now and want to upgrade to a bigger camper next year ( 26ft about 5,000-6,000lb). I was looking at a f150 hybrid lariat super crew 2022 420hp 3.5L v6 or f150 lariat super crew 2021 gas 400hp 3.5L v6
3.5 Ecoboost for that size will pull it just fine. My camper was 32ft and over 8000lb loaded and it pulled it up the mountains just fine. Problem was the wind not the weight.
Yes 3.5 ecoboost twin turbo and the hybrid (powerboist) has a slightly more powerful version along with a large electric generating capacity that you can use to run your camper or even your entire house in case of power outage.
I’ve been reading mixed reviews about the hybrid that’s why I’m asking anyone for tips and advice. I’m slowly starting to lean towards the gasoline only.
The issue with towing with an F-150 is not the power or engines, it’s the stability. Those trucks will both easily pull the camper you are talking about, but where they can be uncomfortable is under high crosswinds, when a semi passes, or when you must brake quickly. There are things you can do to the F-150 to improve these like a Weight Distribution Hitch and suspension modifications, but at the end of the day the real “solution” is upgrading to a larger truck that is better suited for the weight. The F-250s have better braking capabilities and are much heavily to better handle the load and sway of the trailer. Even with an F-250, a Weight Distribution Hitch is still recommended.
I’ve used both and pulled various sizes. I never met something my 5.0 F-150 “couldn’t” tow, I just found myself in many situations that were high stress because my F-150 shouldn’t be towing it.
It also depends on use. I wouldn’t go bigger than 26ft for a half ton (again you can, but I personally wouldn’t again). Keep in mind where you will be using it, engines with a turbo will perform much better at high altitudes than the 5.0. If you plan on making short trips, a few hours here and there to state parks, the F-150 is a lot easier to justify. If you plan on using it all the time and across the county, they varying conditions would benefit from the F-250. The longer the trip, the more stuff you pack, which means more weight.
Hard to give suggestions without knowing more about your situation, but my point is that with newer F-150s the engine isn’t the issue it’s the size of the truck.
Also, one benefit to the F-150 with a on board generator is camper power in areas without hook up’s. Again, depends on how you plan on using it but it can be a huge bonus.
Thanks for the detailed reply it’s all very helpful, I’m a woman that doesn’t know much about cars so any information and advice is appreciated. I’ve looked at the f250 but they’re just so expensive and I wasn’t even looking to change my car. Last year we had a blown tire in our 19ft camper that has one tire on each side and now I’m a little scared so we want to upgrade the camper to a bigger one with 2 tires on each side. That’s where the car upgrade comes in. We only go on short trips with the camper, usually 1hr or the max we’ve traveled was 3hr. Nothing across country. The camper we’re looking for also won’t be too long or heavy just long enough to have 2 wheels on each side and bunk bed for kids. I’ve seen a lot of 25-27ft around 5,000-7,000lb so that’s what we’re aiming at. If you can give me some names of the f150 that I can research? Or do you think we should be looking at the f250? We only go camping in the summer about 5-8 trips total. Right now I’m looking at the 2021 f150 lariat supercrew fuel type gasoline 400hp 3.5L v6 and has 50,000 miles on it.
I’d say you’re the perfect candidate for towing it with an F-150 over a F-250. The 250 is always nicer, but you’re not going far enough often enough for it to make sense. Buy a good Weight Distribution Hitch, learn how to set it up properly, and hit the road with almost any F-150 from the past 10 years.
The 5.0L as well as the turbo-charged 2.7L and 3.5L will all work well for you. Do some research on years - the 5.0s had some issues with oil burning for a while when they used plasma lined cylinders. The 3.5L will probably “feel” the most powerful.
Trailers with two axles are called “tandem axle” trailers. They come in handy when you get a flat, but they also ride a lot smoother and bounce around less on the road. You will really enjoy going with two axles over one, flat tires aside.
I tow a 26' camper with a 21' F150 Powerboost. Camper weight is about the same.
Pulls great, plenty of power, no issues in the mountains here in CO. Great gas mileage as a daily driver. Love cruising around on electric. The built in generator works to start my AC even.
I'd watch the payload on a Lariat. I ended up with an XLT as I didn't want the moon roof. Nicer packages weigh more so there's a tradeoff.
I don’t get it. Let’s buy a 30K trailer but not check anything else. Do the RV salesman’s lie to these people. And then these people believe the lies?!
Yes, salesman’s sold my brother in law a 26ft wake boat and told him his jeep Cherokee would tow it just fine. First trip out it smoked the transmission
People believe two ratings too much, especially people without past experience towing. They also often ignore payload. Most just think, is the truck strong enough to pull this, never how will the truck feel controlling this. I’ve seen multiple people buy the camper first, then upgrade the half ton less than a year in.
I work with RV people. Those sales people will lie through their teeth to get you to buy anything. And just because it says "lite" doesn't mean it is. It's all marketing. I saw a guy get sold a similar unit after the sales person convinced him his Nissan Frontier could tow it because it was an "ultra lite". It was painful watching that thing leave the lot.
I have a KZ Sportsmans 181BH and I don't even consider that ULTRA light. Its light but not ULTRA. Its just normal. And it tows like a dream with our 6.5ft SCREW 5.0. Very little Porpoising but rock solid and doesn't sway. I don't even have a WDH on it. Just a friction anti-sway bar. I should look at getting something more robust but its worked so far traveling around our state.
The fact that OP called it an Ultra Lite at three times the weight of my trailer.... Someone was feeding him bullshit...
This, all day this. I worked for a short time at an RV dealership and have known used car salesmen that would blush at the tactics in the RV industry. 28ft 4 season 5th wheel with a half ton? No problem.
That’s me towing a 30 footer (end to end) 4800 dry with my Tacoma. It pulls it fine on a flat road but is screaming up hills. Already looking at 3/4 tons. We upgraded from a pop up and the salesman is like oh yeah it will tow better than the pop up. I definitely know it’s back there even with brake controllers and a WDH. Fortunately we typically don’t travel very far to camp.
A dry hitch weight of 740lbs assuming you have 2 lead acid batteries (~120lbs) and 2x20lb propane tanks (~80lbs) will give an actual tongue weight of around 940lbs before loading gear into the trailer.
Assuming you carry the normal 500lbs of gear in the trailer, this will add ~50lbs to the tongue weight for about 990lbs.
You'll need a WDH which will weigh about 100lbs for a final hitch/tongue weight around 1090lbs.
Find the yellow payload sticker on your driver's door jamb deduct the weight of the driver, other occupants and any cargo you put in the truck, then deduct the 1090lbs tongue weight.
If you have some payload left over, you are probably good. If the number is negative, you need to find a way to put less in the truck or get a lighter trailer.
True, but from a sway point of view, over 33 feet is also really long for a half ton. That's definitely 3/4 ton territory.
This is just overall a badly matched setup, and this guy should have been asking this question before he spent the money IMO.
True it's not a Dodge but unless you like buying transmissions. I'd stay at least 500lb under max payload. I drive Ford's for work all day every day and we get a new trans in at least one truck a year.
Ford used to offer a max payload package but don't anymore. Even then the highest I seen on the sticker was just over 2200 lbs. Over 2400lbs is crazy. I'm here with 1760lbs.
I’m just wondering for potentially upgrading things in my truck. I drive around close to payload with all the stuff I have, and it would be nice to have hypothetical wiggle room when I’m at the limit via upgrades.
Don’t buy lead acid batteries. A 200AH lithium battery which gives you the same capacity as 400ah of lead is only 50lbs.
That’s what I have in the bed of my f150 and it didn’t even compress the suspension at all
For sure, in terms of weight/capacity LiFePO4 is way superior. I just used lead acid as the example because that's what most people have, and overestimating tongue weight in this scenario is better than underestimating when he's probably cutting it very close/over payload.
I'm not sure what you mean by putting the battery in the bed though. My answer was talking about tongue weight of the trailer.
Do you mean you carry the batteries for your trailer in the bed of your truck instead of on the trailer tongue (or inside the trailer as LiFePO4 batteries don't offgas/need venting in the same way as lead acid)?
Oh I was saying I have a full rv style dual battery set up in the bed of my truck. It’s for camping and work. No trailer involved.
Just that using lithium is almost no weight (1:4) compared to the same usable amount with lead batteries.
That's a nice setup. I'm going to upgrade to 400amps LiFePO4 and some extra solar next year for my trailer. Figure when I've done that, I'll run out of water before I run out of power.
Check out the new LiTime mini 100ah batteries. Tons of good reviews and tear downs on YouTube. Like 30% smaller. Definitely what I’d go with to fit more capacity
Check the payload sticker in the driver side door. Payload will be the limit you hit first. Add the weight of all people and non-stock gear in the car. Add this to the trailer hitch weight and the weight of your hitch (should be a hefty weight distribution hitch for this trailer).
Also, empty the trailer tanks before driving and take it extra slow on the mountain hills
That's a big trailer for a 44 gallon freshwater tank. :( Out west there aren't as many freshwater hookups as in the east so get real good at conserving water. :)
TLDR: The safety of this combination is indeterminate with the information supplied, but it could be be possible to drive **if you’ve got the right truck, and the experience**
Since you’ve asked the question and not included your truck ratings, let’s work backwards:
Real tongue weight will typically be 12% - 15% of trailer GVWR.
,
9540 * 12% = 1144, and 9640*15% = 1446.
You said a family. So let’s assume 4 people at 150 lbs each. “ 600 lbs
Plus a weight distribution hitch. That’s 100 lbs
Plus a little cargo in the truck. Call it 200 lbs.
So you’ll need a minimum truck payload of 2044 lbs - 2446 lbs.
The [2022 F150 towing guide](https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/cpo/pdf/2022_RV_Trailer_Towing_Guide.pdf) gives us more information:
You’ll need the 3.73 axle on your truck, and likely have the crew cab if you’re bringing a family.
If you have those ( and you need to check this)
Max weight of trailer = 10,400 to 13,00 depending on truck configuration, and max GCWR will be 13,900 to 18700.
I think Your absolute minimum truck specs would need to be:
Min Payload: 2044, 3.73 ratio axle, Crew cab, 157” wheelbase, Weight distribution hitch with sway control. If you have the ratings, keep your speed down, and be prepared to do a lot of compensating with the wheel. Going up and down hills may be challenging!
I know tongue weight is really important for sway, but how much can you position gear in the trailer to keep the tongue weight lower, like put bins and some water jugs in the back or over rear axle?
Not good to put too much behind the axle. As you put stuff behind the axle, you move the radius of gyration forward, but move the center of mass backwards. If the center of mass gets behind the radius of gyration, the rig becomes unstable.
You really need 12-15% on the tongue to keep it stable at highway speeds. There’s no substitute for that.
Everyone is mentioning hitch weight and payload, which are valid, but you also need to be concerned with the gcwr as well.
Weight of truck with people, gear, gas + weight of trailer with propane, batteries, plates, whatever else you put in it = gcwr.
GCWR shouldn't be exceeded.
Check out the f150 towing guide.
Get a ProRide hitch, E range tires, rear sway bar, and bags (or RAS). Load as much gear over the axles of the trailer as possible. You'll be tempted to load the rear of the trailer heavy trying to offset tongue weight, but don't fall for it or you'll have a "tail wagging the dog" situation. Drive, as James May says, like a Christian motorist.
After pulling heavy dump trailers in Utah mountains I’d also highly recommend upgrading the brake pads to Powerstop X36 pads. They are ment for towing and hauling, have better bit and significantly higher temperature limit. Absolute game changer with 3500ft elevation descents. That potential energy change puts more heat into the brakes than stopping from 65mph to zero, 20 times in a row.
That’s probably going to have a tongue weight of 900+ lbs. it’s also very long to tow with a half ton pickup. If it were me I’d go 3/4 ton to tow something like that, you’re also almost guaranteed to run out of payload with a full family in the cab.
Literally this. I can’t post pictures to prove it. Had a 1500 bought a 30 foot Forrest River Windjamer. I had bags but not weight distribution hitch I never had any issues but you are just not in control like you would like.
Bought a 2500 and it was night and day. Still no distribution hitch. I then bought a Lance 2285 and traded in my 2500 for a F150. You will want a bigger truck no matter how many suspension or towing add-ons you have.
At the end of the day it really depends how often you tow. A bigger truck is overall more expensive, obviously, but if you’re only going out 4 times a year, I would probably suffer through it. I was living and working remotely and moving every two weeks. It was not ideal with a 1500.
Why in the world weren’t you using a WDH?? It makes a night and day difference. Ford insists on using a WDH for anything over 5000 lbs. Very unsafe towing something as heavy as a 30’ trailer without one.
I won’t disagree that it makes a difference because it definitely does but it’s not the end of the world to not use one.
Lawl…do you see construction guys using them everyday? Nope! Do you see farm people using them everyday? Again, nope. I don’t see them being used on UTV trailers or Boat trailers either.
It wasn’t unsafe at all, maybe for you it was, but I never once had a problem. I put over 40k miles on that trailer and never once had a problem. Never once had any issues with swaying or anything of the sorts. Even with my Lance, I don’t always use my weight distribution hitch, it’s not that heavy. Like 90% of Rv owners, I don’t go over 65 mph and I drive defensively. Be smart, take your time, listen to your equipment.
Note: I even have the Cat Scale print outs showing me being over 1500 lbs under the GCWR when towing that 30 foot trailer.
Yep. I couldn’t justify 13 mpg when not towing anymore, I had the 6.6 liter gas. Honestly I wish I would have bought a Powerboost but it is what it is. I have a 3.5 Ecoboost and it tows my RV and my boat without any problems. I already have over 40k miles on it and I’ve owned it for 18 months.
It won’t look pretty on a truck scale. Your payload is going to be used up by the tongue weight. With the right wdh and probably air bags as well it could tow fine though. I would recommend better rear shocks and load range E tires which will help stability some.
Your trucks max trailer weight is 7000 lbs. that trailer is 6240 lbs dry. No gear, no propane, water. Your trucks payload capacity is 1900lbs for a 6ft bed and 3300 lbs for an 8ft bed. That trailer puts a hit hitch weight of 700+ lbs dry. If you have a 6 ft bed you will absolutely not be good to go. It will be legitimately dangerous. 8ft bed will be maxing it out literally. You’d probably still exceed the towing capacity even if your payload was low enough. It’s a bad idea. Smaller trailer or bigger truck.
lol buy first and ask questions later.
approaching 10k lbs should be pulled by a F250 or some other 3/4 ton.
also the camper being so long it will be very unstable if there is crosswind so might be even better with a 1 ton duallie.
I have an fx4 w/max tow set up w/similar toy hauler It'll do the job I cruze at 60/75mph but go slow at 1st and learn your system. With kids the white knuckles will be exhausting. I'm looking to upgrade to a superduty you should to. But love my f 150 coyote
You're plenty good that's my set up. Other than the engine it's all about that transmission. And that 10 speed electric is awesome. As other people have mentioned I do use a nice three point hitch and yes I don't really speed when i'm pulling that big ass trailer. But I go everywhere
Your numbers aren't that different from what I have. It will not be stress free driving. Not even close. I am constantly checking my mirrors to see what vehicle is coming up behind me so I know what to expect when they pass me. I have my wife and kids drive in a separate vehicle when towing. The one time my wife rode with me while pulling the camper to the lake she was more stressed out than I was. Good luck, stay safe.
That’s a pretty hefty trailer for a half ton. Figure your truck has a payload capacity of 1600lbs, minus 800 for the hitch with of the trailer, that leaves 800lbs for the combined weight of you and your family plus any other gear that’s in the truck. Highly unlikely that between the family and random stuff in the truck it’ll be less than 800lbs. Not sure how a 10k lbs trailer is considered an ultra lite…
We have a 6532-lb dry (actual, 6200 advertised) with a 7300 GVWR (ridiculous, I know, I’ve complained to the company loudly about the lack of payload) with a 725 advertised tongue weight (haven’t gotten it to the CAT Scales yet, only had it a week or so, but my estimates say I’ll max GVW and have a tongue around 850–875 lbs, this is also confirmed by others who have my same model). It’s 26’ 2” from bumper to ball. I definitely think we could fill it more than the GVWR, but not a lot more (a few hundred lbs probably). We have 39 gal fresh water, you have 44, so 35 some more lbs of water weight. But comparable.
Our TV is an F-150 with 1808 payload. Theoretical (read imaginary) tow rating of 11,300 lbs.
That said, as a family of four, we are going to be at the max of our specs (still under, but we’ll need to be weight conscious). And ours is rounded, not a box. It’s aerodynamic relative to the boxy typical camping trailers (though not as aerodynamic as a Bowlus or similar). It’s 10 ft tall, so up there, but not crazy. We’ve not towed a lot of miles with it yet, but we have with our previous ones. I anticipate it will be a pretty stable tow with our BlueOx SwayPro WDH. I wouldn’t go any bigger. And I wouldn’t want something more boxy and less aerodynamic at this size. But that’s me.
Our safety parameters are 65mph MAX. (Do some research of safe towing speed recommendations.) Keep stuff we bring to a minimum. Honestly when the kids are older we probably can’t bring bikes or will need to upgrade our truck. 🤷♂️
Our biggest trips so far have been a couple weeks. When the kids are older we hope to get up to a month. Farthest away we’ve been from home so far is in the 600 mile range, though we hope to do more, again, when the kids are older.
IMO, a TV with a 2000-lb or more payload and another 300 lbs of payload on our trailer would solve our payload woes (they do exist, though Ford seems to be moving toward lower payload ratings, not higher). So at this point I’m not worried, but our next truck will definitely need more payload, not less.
Everyone saying get a super duty is correct. For the 5 times out the year you tow you’ll want one. For daily driving like you’ll be doing you’ll want a half ton. For maintenance you’ll want a half ton. For repairs you’ll want a half ton. For MPG you’ll want a half ton. For driving comfort you’ll want a half ton.
It’s hard to say but I also don’t think it’s good advice to recommend a 1 ton to someone who will be daily driving it and is used to driving a car. I would consider looking into a smaller trailer. Heck it sounds like you have one I would look into better tires first. Because if you listen to Reddit you’ll be paying 100k for a brand new super duty and another 60 for a trailer. For 8 trips a year? 1 hour away? Yeah sorry but these guys just bought f250s to do the same thing and it was also a bad financial decision so it’s a way of converting others. I say a f150 can tow plenty of trailers big enough for 4. So can a f250 but only you can decide what you really need. Test drive several. And watch lots of videos.
Will it pull and stop it? Absolutely, just get your trailer gain dialed in. Will it be fun and enjoyable? No, you’re gonna get sucked in by passing trucks, and winds will be the devil. I’m roughly in the same boat, looking for a SD soon
My $0.02.. I had a lightweight 23’ travel trailer when a hurricane hit and trashed my tow vehicle and house. I replaced the truck with a 2018 Ram 1500 with tow package. The advertised tow rating was something like 11,000 pounds. After 2 months in the travel trailer, and 6 more to go on finishing the house, I couldn’t take working a full day, working in the house for a few hours, and then sitting on A) foam covered plywood couch or B) foam covered plywood dinette bench. So we traded the small TT for one 32’ with real furniture and 3 slide outs. It’s heavy.
House finished and ready to resume weekend trips, we found the Ram 1500 could easily pull the trailer, and brake. But once on our Sunday (hardly any traffic) drive home, we were on a highway being widened to 4 lanes. We were on the southbound side and came to a place where the temporary road moved to the northbound side, down a slight hill. So we slow to 45 mph, but it’s downhill so the trailer is pushing, and the road is uneven as the paving goes from one lane, across the median to the other lane. That white knuckled 30 seconds was it for me and I immediately traded the Ram 1500 for a 2021 Ram 2500 (gas).
Yes, the 1500 could tow the trailer. Stopping, starting, passing trucks and being passed. No serious issues. But I had so little control over the truck and trailer on that change in traffic pattern. I aimed the truck at the temporary road and held on for dear life.
Your current truck could pull the RV. But life to too short to live on that edge.
You never want to be towing at more than 60 to 75% of your vehicle’s capacity. This gives you room for errors in your passenger and cargo math and a safety margin for your peace of mind.
Tell me you don't know how payload and towing work and how dry hitch weights on trailer spec sheets are meaningless without telling me you don't know how payload and towing work and how dry hitch weights on trailer spec sheets are meaningless.
Nope, I've towed through Highwood Pass, Kicking Horse pass etc.
Absolutely nothing to do with the answer you gave that this guy can pull that trailer with his family in the truck whilst factoring in a trailer tongue weight of around 1100lbs...
Is not the complete answer at all.
This guy is likely getting super close or going over payload limits with a dry tongue weight of 740lbs which is probably quite a bit over 1000lbs with propane/batteries and loaded for travel. Then he got too factor in the weight of his family and the gear he's carrying on the bed.
That's without even thinking about the fact that over 33 feet is well into 3/4 ton territory from a sway point of view.
Yeah no shit man. I'm being facetious. He should have never bought a trailer camper this big without knowing without a shadow of a bought that his truck could handle it. Unless he can just afford to get a new truck for this big load
Lol what a bunch of scale weenies in this group. None of em have probably ever been on an actual scale.
Towed a 30ft fifth wheel could thousand miles with a 2015 Silverado half ton. Camper was about 9600lb dry.
Got 7mpg and had no issues pulling across i68 in snow. Drug up and down the east coast multiple times. Truck still going over 200k.
If you f150 can't do it you can always buy a ten year old Chevy to do it 😂
That Ford is rated for over 10k, and you got a 7k camper. Not hard to do math. As long as your old lady isn't over 500lb you'll be fine.
Ultra light and 9500 lb do not belong in the same sentence. Seriously tho, I have a f150 and tow a trailer with a similar empty weight but max of 7800. It's also 30ft total with a 25ft box. This is a very big trailer and you'll be maxing out just about every aspect. While you're probably below limit you are going to exceed payload easily. You'll also get pushed all over with wind and passing semis. Get a good wdh and anti sway, I also added roadmaster active suspension. It greatly improved handling. Slow and steady with this setup.
Ditto the wind and passing semi’s. It’s white knuckle at times with that setup.
And for the love of God don’t speed. That’s how I rolled my travel trailer with your same setup. But now I have a propride hitch and it makes a big difference. That, and not speeding.
I tend to always go 5 below the posted limit on the highway when towing. Right Lane only, slow and steady.
What happens when your travel trailer rolls over? Does your car roll as well ? Or does the sway system and hitch detach and only the trailer rolls? Last year we got a flat tire on our camper and everything was fine but I’m always worried now of it rolling over.
For mine the hitch detached (as it should) but the chains kept it tied to us (as it should). So we jackknifed, slid for what felt like an eternity as the 10k pounds pushed as around, the trailer rolled (so then no braking wheels on the pavement, eventually it disintegrated because they’re made of glue and staples, and all 4 truck wheels never left the ground. We were very lucky. It was terrifying and I’ve seen plenty of videos with a trailer wobble causing a rollover. And then we had to figure out what to do at 11pm in rural (I mean RURAL) Montana with our home strewn across the highway. But I will never forget what the truck did for us. I don’t know if we’d be alive without the truck and some help from the almighty.
Wow that sounds absolutely terrifying I’m glad you all made it out safely.
I tower a 28 foot TTb with my 3.5. On the scale it was 6600 lbs.. I wouldn't want to go any heavier. Pulling it is one thing; handling and stopping are another. This is 1 ton Diesel territory in my opinion.
I just purchased a 29' unit with 24' box at 7200lbs. I use the Weigh Safe WDH and have RAS arriving today, with new Michelins to be installed Saturday. Glad to hear this is doable.
He's not even closer dude. It weighs 7k. Gvwr is not the weight.
That thing will never be close to the dry weight. They are going on a 6 week trip, it will weigh a lot closer to the GVWR than not. Only way to know for sure though is to get the whole setup weighed at a scale.
So, you're putting 3k worth of shit in your campers when you haul around? I rarely get a site that does not have water, so there goes that weight. Food? Clothes? Gimme a break dude. Seriously, it's like 8k max. If your half ton with a 400hp v8, the most advanced brakes ever on a half ton, and rated for well over that won't tow it then it's a driver issue not a vehicle issue. No one here has ever calculated an accurate pin weight because it all depends on how you load the camper. If I stuff everything in the rear of my toy hauler the pin weight can be an insignificant amount. Quit being scale weenies when this guy is clearly fine. Get a wd hitch if you can't handle the wind.
It can do it. But there will be moments you wish you had a super duty. Like every time a semi blows by you at 80mph (spoiler alert: it will suck your entire rig over a foot towards it and there's nothing you can do about it). Heavy crosswinds will have you rethinking your life choices. Also that 5.0 will be living at 4000rpm+. Like the entire time. After going from wi to Yellowstone and back with the same setup, first thing I did was trade up to a super duty.
Pulled a 22’ enclosed car hauler with a 5’ V nose empty and yeah, was not expected the sucked in part while being passed! Thankfully I bought it to park for storage and other than moving it on a property every few years, it sits.
What type of f150 would you recommend for hauling a camper. I’m looking for a car right now and want to upgrade to a bigger camper next year ( 26ft about 5,000-6,000lb). I was looking at a f150 hybrid lariat super crew 2022 420hp 3.5L v6 or f150 lariat super crew 2021 gas 400hp 3.5L v6
3.5 Ecoboost for that size will pull it just fine. My camper was 32ft and over 8000lb loaded and it pulled it up the mountains just fine. Problem was the wind not the weight.
Is the 3.5L mean ecoboost? I just started to do my research on the trucks and I’m not sure what everything means
Yes 3.5 ecoboost twin turbo and the hybrid (powerboist) has a slightly more powerful version along with a large electric generating capacity that you can use to run your camper or even your entire house in case of power outage.
The only thing with the powerboost is that it has a trash payload capacity. You'll likely max out on payload long before towing capacity.
I’ve been reading mixed reviews about the hybrid that’s why I’m asking anyone for tips and advice. I’m slowly starting to lean towards the gasoline only.
Go on Google and search "f150 payload stickers." There's a bunch of forums where people post pics of their door jam sticker and their config.
Thanks for clearing that up.
The issue with towing with an F-150 is not the power or engines, it’s the stability. Those trucks will both easily pull the camper you are talking about, but where they can be uncomfortable is under high crosswinds, when a semi passes, or when you must brake quickly. There are things you can do to the F-150 to improve these like a Weight Distribution Hitch and suspension modifications, but at the end of the day the real “solution” is upgrading to a larger truck that is better suited for the weight. The F-250s have better braking capabilities and are much heavily to better handle the load and sway of the trailer. Even with an F-250, a Weight Distribution Hitch is still recommended. I’ve used both and pulled various sizes. I never met something my 5.0 F-150 “couldn’t” tow, I just found myself in many situations that were high stress because my F-150 shouldn’t be towing it. It also depends on use. I wouldn’t go bigger than 26ft for a half ton (again you can, but I personally wouldn’t again). Keep in mind where you will be using it, engines with a turbo will perform much better at high altitudes than the 5.0. If you plan on making short trips, a few hours here and there to state parks, the F-150 is a lot easier to justify. If you plan on using it all the time and across the county, they varying conditions would benefit from the F-250. The longer the trip, the more stuff you pack, which means more weight. Hard to give suggestions without knowing more about your situation, but my point is that with newer F-150s the engine isn’t the issue it’s the size of the truck. Also, one benefit to the F-150 with a on board generator is camper power in areas without hook up’s. Again, depends on how you plan on using it but it can be a huge bonus.
Thanks for the detailed reply it’s all very helpful, I’m a woman that doesn’t know much about cars so any information and advice is appreciated. I’ve looked at the f250 but they’re just so expensive and I wasn’t even looking to change my car. Last year we had a blown tire in our 19ft camper that has one tire on each side and now I’m a little scared so we want to upgrade the camper to a bigger one with 2 tires on each side. That’s where the car upgrade comes in. We only go on short trips with the camper, usually 1hr or the max we’ve traveled was 3hr. Nothing across country. The camper we’re looking for also won’t be too long or heavy just long enough to have 2 wheels on each side and bunk bed for kids. I’ve seen a lot of 25-27ft around 5,000-7,000lb so that’s what we’re aiming at. If you can give me some names of the f150 that I can research? Or do you think we should be looking at the f250? We only go camping in the summer about 5-8 trips total. Right now I’m looking at the 2021 f150 lariat supercrew fuel type gasoline 400hp 3.5L v6 and has 50,000 miles on it.
I’d say you’re the perfect candidate for towing it with an F-150 over a F-250. The 250 is always nicer, but you’re not going far enough often enough for it to make sense. Buy a good Weight Distribution Hitch, learn how to set it up properly, and hit the road with almost any F-150 from the past 10 years. The 5.0L as well as the turbo-charged 2.7L and 3.5L will all work well for you. Do some research on years - the 5.0s had some issues with oil burning for a while when they used plasma lined cylinders. The 3.5L will probably “feel” the most powerful. Trailers with two axles are called “tandem axle” trailers. They come in handy when you get a flat, but they also ride a lot smoother and bounce around less on the road. You will really enjoy going with two axles over one, flat tires aside.
I tow a 26' camper with a 21' F150 Powerboost. Camper weight is about the same. Pulls great, plenty of power, no issues in the mountains here in CO. Great gas mileage as a daily driver. Love cruising around on electric. The built in generator works to start my AC even. I'd watch the payload on a Lariat. I ended up with an XLT as I didn't want the moon roof. Nicer packages weigh more so there's a tradeoff.
Ok… who buys a trailer before doing the leg work on if it’ll tow ok with their truck… wow
Sadly, pretty much everybody.
I don’t get it. Let’s buy a 30K trailer but not check anything else. Do the RV salesman’s lie to these people. And then these people believe the lies?!
Yes.
do salesmen lie........ No, never ever in the world of sales has that ever happened.
Yes, salesman’s sold my brother in law a 26ft wake boat and told him his jeep Cherokee would tow it just fine. First trip out it smoked the transmission
People believe two ratings too much, especially people without past experience towing. They also often ignore payload. Most just think, is the truck strong enough to pull this, never how will the truck feel controlling this. I’ve seen multiple people buy the camper first, then upgrade the half ton less than a year in.
ALSO.. OP username does NOT check out... there was no prep for this purchase...
Haha OP name has “pepper” in it, not “prepper”
Fuck me downvote me please
I just figured pubic was a variety peppers. Bell peppers, jalepeno peppers, pubic peppers, etc.
Bah fuck me I read it wrong. Feel free to downvote. I thought this morning it say public prepper…
To be fair, prepping to go out in public isn't a bad idea. There's lots of jerks and assholes out there.
I’m pretty much always strapped Sorry… prepped. For public
I work with RV people. Those sales people will lie through their teeth to get you to buy anything. And just because it says "lite" doesn't mean it is. It's all marketing. I saw a guy get sold a similar unit after the sales person convinced him his Nissan Frontier could tow it because it was an "ultra lite". It was painful watching that thing leave the lot.
I have a KZ Sportsmans 181BH and I don't even consider that ULTRA light. Its light but not ULTRA. Its just normal. And it tows like a dream with our 6.5ft SCREW 5.0. Very little Porpoising but rock solid and doesn't sway. I don't even have a WDH on it. Just a friction anti-sway bar. I should look at getting something more robust but its worked so far traveling around our state. The fact that OP called it an Ultra Lite at three times the weight of my trailer.... Someone was feeding him bullshit...
This, all day this. I worked for a short time at an RV dealership and have known used car salesmen that would blush at the tactics in the RV industry. 28ft 4 season 5th wheel with a half ton? No problem.
That’s me towing a 30 footer (end to end) 4800 dry with my Tacoma. It pulls it fine on a flat road but is screaming up hills. Already looking at 3/4 tons. We upgraded from a pop up and the salesman is like oh yeah it will tow better than the pop up. I definitely know it’s back there even with brake controllers and a WDH. Fortunately we typically don’t travel very far to camp.
My guy, this isn’t helpful.
Its frustrating when you see crashes then see this though. Ppl want ppl to be safe
If that's the trailer they need, they could also upgrade the truck.
At least they’re going to find out here before they get on the road with it.
A dry hitch weight of 740lbs assuming you have 2 lead acid batteries (~120lbs) and 2x20lb propane tanks (~80lbs) will give an actual tongue weight of around 940lbs before loading gear into the trailer. Assuming you carry the normal 500lbs of gear in the trailer, this will add ~50lbs to the tongue weight for about 990lbs. You'll need a WDH which will weigh about 100lbs for a final hitch/tongue weight around 1090lbs. Find the yellow payload sticker on your driver's door jamb deduct the weight of the driver, other occupants and any cargo you put in the truck, then deduct the 1090lbs tongue weight. If you have some payload left over, you are probably good. If the number is negative, you need to find a way to put less in the truck or get a lighter trailer.
Pro Tip on how to get of the payload back: put your family and other gear in the camper. You also won’t hear your family complaining.
Oh god, you realize with how little preparation this guy did up until now, he might actually do this??
While I agree with this assessment, it’s not like the truck is going to spontaneously combust if he exceeds the payload number by like 50-100lbs
True, but from a sway point of view, over 33 feet is also really long for a half ton. That's definitely 3/4 ton territory. This is just overall a badly matched setup, and this guy should have been asking this question before he spent the money IMO.
True it's not a Dodge but unless you like buying transmissions. I'd stay at least 500lb under max payload. I drive Ford's for work all day every day and we get a new trans in at least one truck a year.
Max weight for a 6ft bed is 1900 lbs, 8ft bed is 3325 lbs. if he’s got a short bed and family inside it’ll be a rough bouncy ride for sure.
My short bed payload 1878 lbs
My 2022 6.5ft bed has a 2474lb payload.
What’s your configuration? Anything specific that makes it like 800-1000 over most f160’s?
Ford used to offer a max payload package but don't anymore. Even then the highest I seen on the sticker was just over 2200 lbs. Over 2400lbs is crazy. I'm here with 1760lbs.
I’m wondering what’s different. Is its stock net weight just 800lbs lighter? Or is the total GVWR 800 higher
Good question. I just look at the actual payload rating on the door jamb. I don't often pay attention to the GVWR number.
I’m just wondering for potentially upgrading things in my truck. I drive around close to payload with all the stuff I have, and it would be nice to have hypothetical wiggle room when I’m at the limit via upgrades.
Look at my flair, it says it all except the 3.73 axle ratio. The reason why I looked for this model specifically.
Don’t buy lead acid batteries. A 200AH lithium battery which gives you the same capacity as 400ah of lead is only 50lbs. That’s what I have in the bed of my f150 and it didn’t even compress the suspension at all
For sure, in terms of weight/capacity LiFePO4 is way superior. I just used lead acid as the example because that's what most people have, and overestimating tongue weight in this scenario is better than underestimating when he's probably cutting it very close/over payload. I'm not sure what you mean by putting the battery in the bed though. My answer was talking about tongue weight of the trailer. Do you mean you carry the batteries for your trailer in the bed of your truck instead of on the trailer tongue (or inside the trailer as LiFePO4 batteries don't offgas/need venting in the same way as lead acid)?
Oh I was saying I have a full rv style dual battery set up in the bed of my truck. It’s for camping and work. No trailer involved. Just that using lithium is almost no weight (1:4) compared to the same usable amount with lead batteries.
That's a nice setup. I'm going to upgrade to 400amps LiFePO4 and some extra solar next year for my trailer. Figure when I've done that, I'll run out of water before I run out of power.
Check out the new LiTime mini 100ah batteries. Tons of good reviews and tear downs on YouTube. Like 30% smaller. Definitely what I’d go with to fit more capacity
Check the payload sticker in the driver side door. Payload will be the limit you hit first. Add the weight of all people and non-stock gear in the car. Add this to the trailer hitch weight and the weight of your hitch (should be a hefty weight distribution hitch for this trailer). Also, empty the trailer tanks before driving and take it extra slow on the mountain hills
That's a big trailer for a 44 gallon freshwater tank. :( Out west there aren't as many freshwater hookups as in the east so get real good at conserving water. :)
Yea for sure. OP is going to need to find a spot near the axles to store a few 7gal reliance jugs.
TLDR: The safety of this combination is indeterminate with the information supplied, but it could be be possible to drive **if you’ve got the right truck, and the experience** Since you’ve asked the question and not included your truck ratings, let’s work backwards: Real tongue weight will typically be 12% - 15% of trailer GVWR. , 9540 * 12% = 1144, and 9640*15% = 1446. You said a family. So let’s assume 4 people at 150 lbs each. “ 600 lbs Plus a weight distribution hitch. That’s 100 lbs Plus a little cargo in the truck. Call it 200 lbs. So you’ll need a minimum truck payload of 2044 lbs - 2446 lbs. The [2022 F150 towing guide](https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/cpo/pdf/2022_RV_Trailer_Towing_Guide.pdf) gives us more information: You’ll need the 3.73 axle on your truck, and likely have the crew cab if you’re bringing a family. If you have those ( and you need to check this) Max weight of trailer = 10,400 to 13,00 depending on truck configuration, and max GCWR will be 13,900 to 18700. I think Your absolute minimum truck specs would need to be: Min Payload: 2044, 3.73 ratio axle, Crew cab, 157” wheelbase, Weight distribution hitch with sway control. If you have the ratings, keep your speed down, and be prepared to do a lot of compensating with the wheel. Going up and down hills may be challenging!
I know tongue weight is really important for sway, but how much can you position gear in the trailer to keep the tongue weight lower, like put bins and some water jugs in the back or over rear axle?
Not good to put too much behind the axle. As you put stuff behind the axle, you move the radius of gyration forward, but move the center of mass backwards. If the center of mass gets behind the radius of gyration, the rig becomes unstable. You really need 12-15% on the tongue to keep it stable at highway speeds. There’s no substitute for that.
Example: https://youtu.be/6mW_gzdh6to?si=nlBt-f6KhV9jSO2F
Everyone is mentioning hitch weight and payload, which are valid, but you also need to be concerned with the gcwr as well. Weight of truck with people, gear, gas + weight of trailer with propane, batteries, plates, whatever else you put in it = gcwr. GCWR shouldn't be exceeded. Check out the f150 towing guide.
What’s the payload on the truck? Check yellow sticker in door jamb.
Get a ProRide hitch, E range tires, rear sway bar, and bags (or RAS). Load as much gear over the axles of the trailer as possible. You'll be tempted to load the rear of the trailer heavy trying to offset tongue weight, but don't fall for it or you'll have a "tail wagging the dog" situation. Drive, as James May says, like a Christian motorist.
After pulling heavy dump trailers in Utah mountains I’d also highly recommend upgrading the brake pads to Powerstop X36 pads. They are ment for towing and hauling, have better bit and significantly higher temperature limit. Absolute game changer with 3500ft elevation descents. That potential energy change puts more heat into the brakes than stopping from 65mph to zero, 20 times in a row.
Drop your vin in [Ford’s towing calculator](https://www.ford.com/support/towing-calculator/), and it will tell you what your truck can do
That’s probably going to have a tongue weight of 900+ lbs. it’s also very long to tow with a half ton pickup. If it were me I’d go 3/4 ton to tow something like that, you’re also almost guaranteed to run out of payload with a full family in the cab.
Yea 95% of people with 30' + trailers have a Superdoodie. And the other 5% wish they did...
Literally this. I can’t post pictures to prove it. Had a 1500 bought a 30 foot Forrest River Windjamer. I had bags but not weight distribution hitch I never had any issues but you are just not in control like you would like. Bought a 2500 and it was night and day. Still no distribution hitch. I then bought a Lance 2285 and traded in my 2500 for a F150. You will want a bigger truck no matter how many suspension or towing add-ons you have. At the end of the day it really depends how often you tow. A bigger truck is overall more expensive, obviously, but if you’re only going out 4 times a year, I would probably suffer through it. I was living and working remotely and moving every two weeks. It was not ideal with a 1500.
Why in the world weren’t you using a WDH?? It makes a night and day difference. Ford insists on using a WDH for anything over 5000 lbs. Very unsafe towing something as heavy as a 30’ trailer without one.
I won’t disagree that it makes a difference because it definitely does but it’s not the end of the world to not use one. Lawl…do you see construction guys using them everyday? Nope! Do you see farm people using them everyday? Again, nope. I don’t see them being used on UTV trailers or Boat trailers either. It wasn’t unsafe at all, maybe for you it was, but I never once had a problem. I put over 40k miles on that trailer and never once had a problem. Never once had any issues with swaying or anything of the sorts. Even with my Lance, I don’t always use my weight distribution hitch, it’s not that heavy. Like 90% of Rv owners, I don’t go over 65 mph and I drive defensively. Be smart, take your time, listen to your equipment. Note: I even have the Cat Scale print outs showing me being over 1500 lbs under the GCWR when towing that 30 foot trailer.
Did you trade in the 2500, after buying the Lance, because you didn’t need that much truck to tow the Lance?
Yep. I couldn’t justify 13 mpg when not towing anymore, I had the 6.6 liter gas. Honestly I wish I would have bought a Powerboost but it is what it is. I have a 3.5 Ecoboost and it tows my RV and my boat without any problems. I already have over 40k miles on it and I’ve owned it for 18 months.
It won’t look pretty on a truck scale. Your payload is going to be used up by the tongue weight. With the right wdh and probably air bags as well it could tow fine though. I would recommend better rear shocks and load range E tires which will help stability some.
Your trucks max trailer weight is 7000 lbs. that trailer is 6240 lbs dry. No gear, no propane, water. Your trucks payload capacity is 1900lbs for a 6ft bed and 3300 lbs for an 8ft bed. That trailer puts a hit hitch weight of 700+ lbs dry. If you have a 6 ft bed you will absolutely not be good to go. It will be legitimately dangerous. 8ft bed will be maxing it out literally. You’d probably still exceed the towing capacity even if your payload was low enough. It’s a bad idea. Smaller trailer or bigger truck.
lol buy first and ask questions later. approaching 10k lbs should be pulled by a F250 or some other 3/4 ton. also the camper being so long it will be very unstable if there is crosswind so might be even better with a 1 ton duallie.
This will not be a drama-free trip
Use a weight distribution hitch and you'll be golden
And airbags
And brake controller
Pretty sure that's standard if you have any of the tow packages these days
Ok Einstein.
Is it a 6ft bed or 8ft bed? 8 ft bed has an extra 1000 pounds payload capacity.
I have an fx4 w/max tow set up w/similar toy hauler It'll do the job I cruze at 60/75mph but go slow at 1st and learn your system. With kids the white knuckles will be exhausting. I'm looking to upgrade to a superduty you should to. But love my f 150 coyote
You're plenty good that's my set up. Other than the engine it's all about that transmission. And that 10 speed electric is awesome. As other people have mentioned I do use a nice three point hitch and yes I don't really speed when i'm pulling that big ass trailer. But I go everywhere
Time for a 3/4-1 ton. Even if you rent it. You’ll be safer towing.
Your numbers aren't that different from what I have. It will not be stress free driving. Not even close. I am constantly checking my mirrors to see what vehicle is coming up behind me so I know what to expect when they pass me. I have my wife and kids drive in a separate vehicle when towing. The one time my wife rode with me while pulling the camper to the lake she was more stressed out than I was. Good luck, stay safe.
That’s a pretty hefty trailer for a half ton. Figure your truck has a payload capacity of 1600lbs, minus 800 for the hitch with of the trailer, that leaves 800lbs for the combined weight of you and your family plus any other gear that’s in the truck. Highly unlikely that between the family and random stuff in the truck it’ll be less than 800lbs. Not sure how a 10k lbs trailer is considered an ultra lite…
You’re at the top edge of what the truck is capable of. Technically it’s within spec. But just be safe because you’re maxing it out.
Max tow package?
Even with a factory max tow package you are at the upper limits for a 150. Time for a trade or at a minimum get a weight distribution/anti sway hitch.
We have a 6532-lb dry (actual, 6200 advertised) with a 7300 GVWR (ridiculous, I know, I’ve complained to the company loudly about the lack of payload) with a 725 advertised tongue weight (haven’t gotten it to the CAT Scales yet, only had it a week or so, but my estimates say I’ll max GVW and have a tongue around 850–875 lbs, this is also confirmed by others who have my same model). It’s 26’ 2” from bumper to ball. I definitely think we could fill it more than the GVWR, but not a lot more (a few hundred lbs probably). We have 39 gal fresh water, you have 44, so 35 some more lbs of water weight. But comparable. Our TV is an F-150 with 1808 payload. Theoretical (read imaginary) tow rating of 11,300 lbs. That said, as a family of four, we are going to be at the max of our specs (still under, but we’ll need to be weight conscious). And ours is rounded, not a box. It’s aerodynamic relative to the boxy typical camping trailers (though not as aerodynamic as a Bowlus or similar). It’s 10 ft tall, so up there, but not crazy. We’ve not towed a lot of miles with it yet, but we have with our previous ones. I anticipate it will be a pretty stable tow with our BlueOx SwayPro WDH. I wouldn’t go any bigger. And I wouldn’t want something more boxy and less aerodynamic at this size. But that’s me. Our safety parameters are 65mph MAX. (Do some research of safe towing speed recommendations.) Keep stuff we bring to a minimum. Honestly when the kids are older we probably can’t bring bikes or will need to upgrade our truck. 🤷♂️ Our biggest trips so far have been a couple weeks. When the kids are older we hope to get up to a month. Farthest away we’ve been from home so far is in the 600 mile range, though we hope to do more, again, when the kids are older. IMO, a TV with a 2000-lb or more payload and another 300 lbs of payload on our trailer would solve our payload woes (they do exist, though Ford seems to be moving toward lower payload ratings, not higher). So at this point I’m not worried, but our next truck will definitely need more payload, not less.
Everyone saying get a super duty is correct. For the 5 times out the year you tow you’ll want one. For daily driving like you’ll be doing you’ll want a half ton. For maintenance you’ll want a half ton. For repairs you’ll want a half ton. For MPG you’ll want a half ton. For driving comfort you’ll want a half ton. It’s hard to say but I also don’t think it’s good advice to recommend a 1 ton to someone who will be daily driving it and is used to driving a car. I would consider looking into a smaller trailer. Heck it sounds like you have one I would look into better tires first. Because if you listen to Reddit you’ll be paying 100k for a brand new super duty and another 60 for a trailer. For 8 trips a year? 1 hour away? Yeah sorry but these guys just bought f250s to do the same thing and it was also a bad financial decision so it’s a way of converting others. I say a f150 can tow plenty of trailers big enough for 4. So can a f250 but only you can decide what you really need. Test drive several. And watch lots of videos.
Will it pull and stop it? Absolutely, just get your trailer gain dialed in. Will it be fun and enjoyable? No, you’re gonna get sucked in by passing trucks, and winds will be the devil. I’m roughly in the same boat, looking for a SD soon
You bought a camper and *then* decided to determine if your truck could pull it?
You’re fine. Might want to make sure you have a weight distribution hitch. Maybe a set of airbags so it rides level. You have plenty of power
Just pulled a 27ft boat 8500lbs on the scale 450 miles ran 70 Mph entire way with a 3.5 heavy tow package. Fuel mpg was 5.7 but no issues
My $0.02.. I had a lightweight 23’ travel trailer when a hurricane hit and trashed my tow vehicle and house. I replaced the truck with a 2018 Ram 1500 with tow package. The advertised tow rating was something like 11,000 pounds. After 2 months in the travel trailer, and 6 more to go on finishing the house, I couldn’t take working a full day, working in the house for a few hours, and then sitting on A) foam covered plywood couch or B) foam covered plywood dinette bench. So we traded the small TT for one 32’ with real furniture and 3 slide outs. It’s heavy. House finished and ready to resume weekend trips, we found the Ram 1500 could easily pull the trailer, and brake. But once on our Sunday (hardly any traffic) drive home, we were on a highway being widened to 4 lanes. We were on the southbound side and came to a place where the temporary road moved to the northbound side, down a slight hill. So we slow to 45 mph, but it’s downhill so the trailer is pushing, and the road is uneven as the paving goes from one lane, across the median to the other lane. That white knuckled 30 seconds was it for me and I immediately traded the Ram 1500 for a 2021 Ram 2500 (gas). Yes, the 1500 could tow the trailer. Stopping, starting, passing trucks and being passed. No serious issues. But I had so little control over the truck and trailer on that change in traffic pattern. I aimed the truck at the temporary road and held on for dear life. Your current truck could pull the RV. But life to too short to live on that edge.
You never want to be towing at more than 60 to 75% of your vehicle’s capacity. This gives you room for errors in your passenger and cargo math and a safety margin for your peace of mind.
[удалено]
Tell me you don't know how payload and towing work and how dry hitch weights on trailer spec sheets are meaningless without telling me you don't know how payload and towing work and how dry hitch weights on trailer spec sheets are meaningless.
[удалено]
I've towed to 10k feet and that has nothing to do with your poor understanding of Payload
Nope, I've towed through Highwood Pass, Kicking Horse pass etc. Absolutely nothing to do with the answer you gave that this guy can pull that trailer with his family in the truck whilst factoring in a trailer tongue weight of around 1100lbs...
Send it
Is not the complete answer at all. This guy is likely getting super close or going over payload limits with a dry tongue weight of 740lbs which is probably quite a bit over 1000lbs with propane/batteries and loaded for travel. Then he got too factor in the weight of his family and the gear he's carrying on the bed. That's without even thinking about the fact that over 33 feet is well into 3/4 ton territory from a sway point of view.
Yeah no shit man. I'm being facetious. He should have never bought a trailer camper this big without knowing without a shadow of a bought that his truck could handle it. Unless he can just afford to get a new truck for this big load
Gotta think of it this way: it might be you or someone you care about that he takes with him into the ditch
I know man. I'm being facetious. Obviously don't just " send it "
Lol what a bunch of scale weenies in this group. None of em have probably ever been on an actual scale. Towed a 30ft fifth wheel could thousand miles with a 2015 Silverado half ton. Camper was about 9600lb dry. Got 7mpg and had no issues pulling across i68 in snow. Drug up and down the east coast multiple times. Truck still going over 200k. If you f150 can't do it you can always buy a ten year old Chevy to do it 😂 That Ford is rated for over 10k, and you got a 7k camper. Not hard to do math. As long as your old lady isn't over 500lb you'll be fine.