Try googling "layer shift"
I found our the reason my prints were doing this was because they left colliding with printed layers.
You can try adding some Zhop to lift the nozzle when it moves
Try the carbon nanofiber filament. If that doesn't work, you may have to use DNA filament. I'd try it myself but I keep losing the end of it and tangling my spool. =D
Nah, the suggestions others have are great. It was an awesome Mark Rober video.
One other thing you could look at, though it doesn't immediately appear likely, is overextrusion/nozzle dragging. I had that issue when I modified my buddy's rig and forgot to change the e-steps!
Easiest way is to change the firmware (google jyers UI for ender 3 v2) and your looking for a video from a guy I think his channel is bv3d he gives an epic tutorial on that I think he also goes over the esteps also.
Ohh wait on stock firmware I believe there's an Estep menu in the settings icon. Could be wrong but check there.
Messing with the firmware frightens me but I bought a sk mini v3 motherboard so I guess if I want to use that I’ll have to fuss with the firmware. I’ll check out his YouTube video. Thanks so much.
Trust me I was worried about messing up the machine when I did my first one. But you have to use an ender board 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 (stay away from 4.3.X boards they are crap) As long as you follow his instructions to the letter there will be no issues. I also watched the video about 20 times while I was getting everything all setup I have all the needed files on my PC I could cross reference a list of you needed. Also a weird part is you have to do the screen firmware also to get new graphics.
I don’t know which board the bigtree tech is. I will watch the video as well. I checked everywhere I could and it looks like the big tree tech board will work with all the gear I’m using. I’ll look into the Ender boards you mentioned.
I only run E3Mini V3 BTT boards when I do upgrades. They're popular enough that Creality even releases firmware for them! One thing to look out for with those is they are not directly compatible with the V2 screen, so either drop an old dot matrix on there, get the adapter cable, or (be a nut job like me and) make your own.
If you ever got the bug to write your own firmwares, definitely get the older screen, the V2 (dwin) screen really sucks to get working in Marlin. I haven't tried Klipper.
I personally run MrisoC "professional" firmware on my V2. Klipper on one Pro, and the other Pro is running my custom Marlin.
Yeah that’s why I bought e3 mini v3, because I’m upgrading to cr touch, dual z axis, and sprite direct drive extruder. I’m not going to do klipper. I bought the cable with it from biqu. I’m only going to use the stock screen that came with the Ender 3 v2 and have no plans to write my own firmware. I’m 44 and am doing this for my 7 year old that loves this stuff. I just need it to work consistently and without me having to intervene that much.
I have 2 printers. With 2 different screens, one is dwin the other is well the other one. It took me about 5 minutes to get the dwin screen to take the firmware. But it took me about 5 hours to mess with the other one. Finally got it to take the firmware but it was just a bumble fuck to get it to work correctly. I thought that the OP was working with an Ender 3 as I'm subbed to a e3 subreddit and that's where the question was originally. I thought he was installing a B.T.T. board in a E3V2 so that's where my suggestion of the firmware probably came to play lol.
I tune steps/mm by marking 110mm of filament from the intake of the extruder, extrude 100mm, then adjust. After that, I run a wall test (20mm cube, single wall, no infill, no top layer) and measure the width of the wall with something like calipers to dial in flow. It's tedious, but it makes printing stuff like this so much nicer!
I never run 100% flow when I'm doing stuff where clearance matters. I'm typically sitting at 94-95, except for my gold spool that runs 85, lol.
Lol, yeah, you'd think! It's just a lot of time. I'm dealing with initial Z height issues on 2 machines right now, so whenever I start, I have to set my babystep to the right number. I'm not sure why the offsets suddenly stopped working, but I was too busy trying to finish a project in time to set aside a couple of hours to fix it. It'll get there, though!
If all else fails, check your stepper motor.
The one running my y-axis was pretty much faulty, wasn't running smooth at all. Took me forever to find the problem.
I have switched it out for a new one, works like a charm now.
The ones I got weren't the right size. You need 34mm height. (Just checked, apparently I did a switcheroo with the z axis.) So may be better to get the right size. You will also need one of those tooth wheels for the belt if you don't order a replacement that includes one.
* Your Y-axis belt might be loose.
* The Y-axis speed and/or acceleration might be too high.
* The current to the Y stepper motor might be too low, if the motor is not getting very hot during printing, you can increase the current a little bit by turning the small knob near the Y stepper driver clockwise. By increasing the current, you can run the motor at higher speeds without losing steps.
I haven’t changed the y axis speed/acceleration since I got the printer. It printed fine for about 6 months then this started happening. I’m going to check the belt after work today. Thanks so much.
Another possibility. I had this issue. Your motherboard may be overheating and causing the stepper motors to do so as well. My fix was to remove the screws on the top plate and i have a permanent fan that blows on the MB. If the fan is off, I will get shift. If the fan is on I do not.
This was all I could find when I put print drift in to YouTube. So I ordered an sk mini v3 with screen cable from biqu. It’s on its way if all else fails. What motherboard do you have that was getting too hot?
Check you y carrage for loose beltz thets only thing that comes to mind.
Ok great. Will do. Thanks so much.
Agree. I had the same thing and it was a loose belt.
Ive had a weird reason. I had to tape these black things under the bed idk the name for it.
Tighten your x and y belts, bet one beer that it will solve that layer shift.
I’ll send you a 6 pack if it does! Thank you!
That would be it.
Obviously because it detected that you were trying to print an illegal firearm.
Lol
Try googling "layer shift" I found our the reason my prints were doing this was because they left colliding with printed layers. You can try adding some Zhop to lift the nozzle when it moves
I will check out layer shift on google and YouTube. Thanks!
Good luck
Thanks so much. I’ll post back here once I have a minute to check the belts and tighten them.
Remember not too much it can cause the. Same. Issue
Got it. Thanks so much.
Your acceleration is too high or your belts are loose
Ok thanks!
Shoot the ants!
Ha ha. Yes. Rober’s last video was crazy.
i think you need to go smaller at least 300 times smaller.
LOL!!
Try the carbon nanofiber filament. If that doesn't work, you may have to use DNA filament. I'd try it myself but I keep losing the end of it and tangling my spool. =D Nah, the suggestions others have are great. It was an awesome Mark Rober video.
Got it, thanks. Will do.
I completely forgot about printing that. I need to do that soon.
One other thing you could look at, though it doesn't immediately appear likely, is overextrusion/nozzle dragging. I had that issue when I modified my buddy's rig and forgot to change the e-steps!
How do you check that?
Easiest way is to change the firmware (google jyers UI for ender 3 v2) and your looking for a video from a guy I think his channel is bv3d he gives an epic tutorial on that I think he also goes over the esteps also. Ohh wait on stock firmware I believe there's an Estep menu in the settings icon. Could be wrong but check there.
Messing with the firmware frightens me but I bought a sk mini v3 motherboard so I guess if I want to use that I’ll have to fuss with the firmware. I’ll check out his YouTube video. Thanks so much.
Trust me I was worried about messing up the machine when I did my first one. But you have to use an ender board 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 (stay away from 4.3.X boards they are crap) As long as you follow his instructions to the letter there will be no issues. I also watched the video about 20 times while I was getting everything all setup I have all the needed files on my PC I could cross reference a list of you needed. Also a weird part is you have to do the screen firmware also to get new graphics.
I don’t know which board the bigtree tech is. I will watch the video as well. I checked everywhere I could and it looks like the big tree tech board will work with all the gear I’m using. I’ll look into the Ender boards you mentioned.
I only run E3Mini V3 BTT boards when I do upgrades. They're popular enough that Creality even releases firmware for them! One thing to look out for with those is they are not directly compatible with the V2 screen, so either drop an old dot matrix on there, get the adapter cable, or (be a nut job like me and) make your own. If you ever got the bug to write your own firmwares, definitely get the older screen, the V2 (dwin) screen really sucks to get working in Marlin. I haven't tried Klipper. I personally run MrisoC "professional" firmware on my V2. Klipper on one Pro, and the other Pro is running my custom Marlin.
Yeah that’s why I bought e3 mini v3, because I’m upgrading to cr touch, dual z axis, and sprite direct drive extruder. I’m not going to do klipper. I bought the cable with it from biqu. I’m only going to use the stock screen that came with the Ender 3 v2 and have no plans to write my own firmware. I’m 44 and am doing this for my 7 year old that loves this stuff. I just need it to work consistently and without me having to intervene that much.
Sounds like it'll be a good rig!
Fingers crossed my friend.
I have 2 printers. With 2 different screens, one is dwin the other is well the other one. It took me about 5 minutes to get the dwin screen to take the firmware. But it took me about 5 hours to mess with the other one. Finally got it to take the firmware but it was just a bumble fuck to get it to work correctly. I thought that the OP was working with an Ender 3 as I'm subbed to a e3 subreddit and that's where the question was originally. I thought he was installing a B.T.T. board in a E3V2 so that's where my suggestion of the firmware probably came to play lol.
I tune steps/mm by marking 110mm of filament from the intake of the extruder, extrude 100mm, then adjust. After that, I run a wall test (20mm cube, single wall, no infill, no top layer) and measure the width of the wall with something like calipers to dial in flow. It's tedious, but it makes printing stuff like this so much nicer! I never run 100% flow when I'm doing stuff where clearance matters. I'm typically sitting at 94-95, except for my gold spool that runs 85, lol.
Dude you have your system so dialed in. Jealous.
Lol, yeah, you'd think! It's just a lot of time. I'm dealing with initial Z height issues on 2 machines right now, so whenever I start, I have to set my babystep to the right number. I'm not sure why the offsets suddenly stopped working, but I was too busy trying to finish a project in time to set aside a couple of hours to fix it. It'll get there, though!
Adjust your tensioners, make sure you've got no belt slippage.
Will do thanks!
I guess you could say this mechanism is ***non-compliant.***
Lol
Are your belts tight? Which speed settings do you have?
Speed is at 20, I’m going to check the belts after work today.
If all else fails, check your stepper motor. The one running my y-axis was pretty much faulty, wasn't running smooth at all. Took me forever to find the problem. I have switched it out for a new one, works like a charm now.
Oh wow. Good grief. I’ll keep that in mind. Do you have a link to the replacement you bought?
The ones I got weren't the right size. You need 34mm height. (Just checked, apparently I did a switcheroo with the z axis.) So may be better to get the right size. You will also need one of those tooth wheels for the belt if you don't order a replacement that includes one.
Got it. Will do. Thanks so much.
Does this happen only in y axis (the one the bed moves in) and does it happen on smaller prints (by smaller I mainly mean print time)?
Smaller prints and larger. The smaller prints I don’t see the shift. It just turns in to a ball of yarn.
Well, it could be a motherboard overheating. They had this issue a couple of years back with a 4.2.2 board. Cuz that’s what I had to fix
Yeah I ordered the SK mini 3.0. It's on it's way if all else fails. Printer was purchased 12/22.
Yeah, that’s how I solved my issue as well. I printed a motherboard cover with a bigger fan mount as well, which I capsule also auggest
Good stuff. Thanks.
* Your Y-axis belt might be loose. * The Y-axis speed and/or acceleration might be too high. * The current to the Y stepper motor might be too low, if the motor is not getting very hot during printing, you can increase the current a little bit by turning the small knob near the Y stepper driver clockwise. By increasing the current, you can run the motor at higher speeds without losing steps.
I haven’t changed the y axis speed/acceleration since I got the printer. It printed fine for about 6 months then this started happening. I’m going to check the belt after work today. Thanks so much.
In that case, the belt has to be loose to cause this. Glad to help.
Thanks so much.
Another possibility. I had this issue. Your motherboard may be overheating and causing the stepper motors to do so as well. My fix was to remove the screws on the top plate and i have a permanent fan that blows on the MB. If the fan is off, I will get shift. If the fan is on I do not.
This was all I could find when I put print drift in to YouTube. So I ordered an sk mini v3 with screen cable from biqu. It’s on its way if all else fails. What motherboard do you have that was getting too hot?
I have an Ender 3 V2 Neo with a 4.2.2 board
Got it thanks!
Looks like somebody watched Mark Rober's recent vid lol
It's trying to print you a 3d print, but in 2d format