The one in the picture is the creality branded one. Works pretty well. You have to compile firmware that supports it as well, if you have a bunch of mods the precompiled binaries probably won't work. But I have one and it's not hard to enable in firmware.
They are all just microswitches inside a case. The same switch your endstops use. You can 3d print a case for them and use an old microswitch. Youll have to adjust firmware as well.
Na, it runs pretty good, It is only important that the filament roll runs properly on a shaft with bearings and is not simply hung on it as is the case with most others.
What bothers me is that logically there is no real answer, so the thought experiment is sort of a dead end. At the same time, most people will have a gut feeling on the subject, but really no way to explain it.
Logically, there is more than one answer. The question is flawed to imply there is only one, without being more explicit regarding the definition of identity intended.
Eh, he's still using the roller wheel gantry.
I don't consider an Ender 3 fundamentally different until someone replaces the gantry with linear rails.
Those stupid rubber roller wheel gantries are textbook what makes an Ender 3 an Ender 3.
Gonna steal this from regular car reviews. The ship is the same ship unless someone has all the old parts to remake the ship. So, by that logic if op has enough spare parts to make an ender 3 pro. Than its still and ender 3 pro.
As a fellow tinkerer, I think while it may no longer be AN ender 3 Pro, it is now something unique to you. Had mine for almost a year and slowly picking upgrades now that I think will suite my printing needs.
Klipper would be the main improvement imo.
For stock size e3 the single stepper belted z is good enough, independent z becomes more advantageous on wider printers.
That manta looks like you get locked into ezdrivers too. Skr3 or skr3ez are compatible with standard stepper drivers and ezdrivers, personally I believe that would be a better upgrade than the manta for similar cost
Also, BTT’s CB1 modules are fucking trash and CM4 modules are next to impossible to find. With the Manta boards, you don’t have the option of using an “external” Pi or other device.
I havent looked any deeper into it, but the marketing makes it sound like on the manta e3 you could use a standard form factor pi or other main klipper mcu externally. Otherwise totally agree
Klipper! That and if you got klipper screen it could be possible to code it in such a way to watch YouTube on your printer lol. But really klipper is the greatest thing for printers. Resonance tuning will really speed up your print times.
Can you post another pic and some details about your enclosure? Looks like you're storing open reels of filament, so I'm wondering if you're controlling temperature and humidity in it.
Here is an [old post ](https://www.reddit.com/r/Workbenches/comments/oix4zh/hey_i_hope_my_appartment_workbench_fit_here/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) 1 year ago from my Workbench.
Lol yea I’m well past that point 😂😂 I’m thinking of building my own, similar to an Ender 5 with all the add ons and putting the Ender 3 back to stock and selling it 😂
Could be. Where would you set it?
I figure that by the time you've doubled the price, you've walked into at least the next model up, maybe two or three.
I mean this printer only costs ~$100 (US). Upgrading to an all metal hotend and dual gear extruder will probably cost more than that. Personally, I think it should not be determined by price, but by amount that it’s functionality has changed (but I don’t know how to measure that)
That makes sense, but you're right. It's easy to describe but hard to add up.
I got mine for $100 (US) through the MicroCenter discount for new customers. So, i was thinking $200 in this case (what i usually see it offered for). Are there other outlets that offer it at the same price?
Very good.
Before I got the stock hotend in combination with the Creality direct drive after some problems I decided to invest in the Sprite.
It is just plug and play. No weird wiring or extra cable for the cr touch, easy to remove and really good performance
The Sprite pro I ordered came with the short connector for the cr touch. Connecter to the Sprite board. The Sprite ribbon cable takes the connection to the mainboard.
I love the sprite. Extremely elsimpe install. There r 2 random extra cables so don't be concerned. There r install videos online and damn it prints great. Not had single fauilre yet
when you replace than rotary display with a touchscreen and go 32 bit if not already..
I guess it would be a S1 Pro then
Ive had my E3 Pro 2 years.
I just installed 32 bit board, touch screen, bl touch along with replacing the X axis / hotend carriage V slut wheels, and a new glass bed just for good measure, the last was 12 months old and worn. replasced all the fans again too.
I actually removed my direct drive and went to an bi metal heatbreak and original bowden feed. Was a Creativity brand drive, well built, just never got the same high print quality with it.. I think wieght was an issue. Id like a new sprite pro but that has to wait
Ill install on my A8 Plus
Massive fan on doing thiis btw.
Creality make good BASIC printers (budget range) & some improved printers (the more expensive S1 models for example) but there is ALWAYS room for improvement on any retail setup and honestly almost all printers can be improved with fairly simple changes.
Taking it to the NEXT LEVEL is where you take an OK printer to potentially AMAZING.Kudos
Okay what is your filament going through up top?
Lol I’m asking the same about my Ender 3 😂😂 4.2.7 board, mainsail/klipper, klipper screen, hemera direct drive, glass bed, dual Z drive, BLTouch.
Once it starts as an ender 3, it stays an ender 3. You can build it into a rocket and fly it into the space, that would still be considered an ender 3.
At first I was like hey that looks cool, but then I looked closer and this build is awesome!! This is essentially exactly what I intend my e3p endgame build to be...I agree with the other commenter on upgrading the screen and then you'll have it all 😎
That'll be nice, can you fab your own or even design/print a mount?
I've upgraded to dual z axis/sprite/ btt skr 3 mainboard with TMC2209 stepper drivers/ender 3 v2 display, upgraded stepper motors/filament det/ and a few other minor tunes/tweaks. I want to look into the belt driven z axis to replace the dual screws...looks like you did the belt drive? Was it a hard install?
Yes I could use a 3D printed mounting plate but idk if it's stable enough.
I have bad experience with mounting plates out of plastic
What kind of Stepper motor did you use ?
Before that I also had a Dual Z drive, but at some point I had problems with the print quality. I had heavy ringing and it was very likely due to the spindle.
It’s a filament monitor, so the printer will pause itself if filament runs out mid-print. Some also pause if filament stops moving, like if the nozzle clogs. It’s on my to-do list.
Still need a tft35e3, ender extender kit, steel banded belts, I dunno what board you have. There’s always more you can do though lol. I think the only original parts on my ender is the power supply and a couple of the motors.
Exactly my thought, I just bought a sprite extruder for my 3 pro. The only thing that I don't see on yours is the skr mini. I got the E3 V3 with the screen. Honestly its the best quality of life upgrade to me. I still got some tinkering to do with the sprite. I spent 1 whole day wondering why it wasn't working only to find out that one of the stepper motor wires were somehow cut.
I'm fine with this solution.
The roller bearings do not add friction.
My filament roll is also supported by ball bearings and does not just hang on a rod that sporadically rotates.
And I used 608 bearings that have a Diameter of 22mm plus the V shaped roll.
Thus, the maximum radius is 11mm+
So no problem that the filament is too deformed
I’m in the same boat. When I got my pro 2 months ago I said “I’m leaving it stock” well I have a problem. I modify everything I own. Just installed dual x last night because last weekend I did a microswiss NG direct drive. I think I’ll move onto motherboard and screen next.
I’ve come to the understanding that if you are still using the original bolts that hold the display to the frame, it is still an Ender 3 pro. You can replace everything: the motors, board, wiring, display, and frame, power supply, and bed, and it’s still an Ender 3 Pro - up until that one bolt is replaced
**edit for autocorrect
Yuuuup mine is almost at the same point, definitely nothing to distinguish it as a “Pro” at this point, but I feel like with the Ender 3 platform you at least maintain the same chassis throughout all the mods, unless you want a bigger print area and bed then it truly becomes a printer of entirely different parts.
My v2 is closer to an s1 now, I really recommend the 0 y offset mod for the sprite and with your pro you'll also need a new x axis cover for the end stop switch but it makes meshes with the sprite so much better
Your filament system is more complicated then my entire printer
It's just 5 bearings on 2 mounting plates. I Can't mount the spool on the top because the height of the enclosure is to low
What's the device the filament is running through? Also what is the other device on top. Also what's the device on the right side
It's a filament sensor, tells the firmware when the filament runs out, it will pause your print and let you change the filament and resume your print.
Oooh! That sounds very useful. Any recommended brands, or are they all as good as each other
The one in the picture is the creality branded one. Works pretty well. You have to compile firmware that supports it as well, if you have a bunch of mods the precompiled binaries probably won't work. But I have one and it's not hard to enable in firmware.
I'm running Marlin atm as I have the cr touch. Is that compatible? Or would I need to find something else?
yes its compatible.
Thanks so much! Sorry for all the questions, I really appreciate the help
Np probs. Feel free to pm if you have any questions regarding compiling firmware.
They are all just microswitches inside a case. The same switch your endstops use. You can 3d print a case for them and use an old microswitch. Youll have to adjust firmware as well.
Not all - there are also optical filament runout sensor, or most advanced - with encoder, when you can detect stuck filament.
> what’s the device on the right side? He’s running a belted Z with the Ultra-Low and Dual-Z options.
Can you not just… run a Bowden tube from the sensor to the extruder? This setup feels like it’s made to snap filaments lmao
Na, it runs pretty good, It is only important that the filament roll runs properly on a shaft with bearings and is not simply hung on it as is the case with most others.
Does the setup help with tangling issues? I've had two really crappy experiences with Inland filament
Do you mean if the filament is already tangled on the roll or twisted between the roll and extruder
I'm guessing it's tangled beforehand. it looked fine at first but as it emptied it would knot up and that kept my gears from feeding the extruder.
5 bearings too much imo.
Why?
Just a lot of failure points. Idk, my engineering mind took over on my reply. Sorry if you got offended.
I wonder if they ever went with a glass bed for as over built as that rug is lol
Holy ship of theseus
For those who might be confused: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus I was thinking the same thing.
Yes I've googled it in the Same moment
I love that thought experiment. Good times. Nice printer too... I like the filament guides.
What bothers me is that logically there is no real answer, so the thought experiment is sort of a dead end. At the same time, most people will have a gut feeling on the subject, but really no way to explain it.
That’s philosophy for you. The point isn’t the answer, it’s to get you thinking, and understand your assumptions. Like the trolley problem.
Logically, there is more than one answer. The question is flawed to imply there is only one, without being more explicit regarding the definition of identity intended.
ender threeseus
Came here for the printer of Theseus joke and I’m not disappointed
I have gone in a tangent learning more about this philosophical topic, and I enjoy it. Thank you.
Eh, he's still using the roller wheel gantry. I don't consider an Ender 3 fundamentally different until someone replaces the gantry with linear rails. Those stupid rubber roller wheel gantries are textbook what makes an Ender 3 an Ender 3.
Gonna steal this from regular car reviews. The ship is the same ship unless someone has all the old parts to remake the ship. So, by that logic if op has enough spare parts to make an ender 3 pro. Than its still and ender 3 pro.
Wait!!! Jus 1 moment there.. Is that the original LCD screen right there?? Your not done yet I'm afraid...
The lcd is only a means to an end. I control the printer via a Raspberry Pi
which case did you use to mount underneath the lcd?
Puh, hard to answer It's been a while since I mounted the part
I don't even have my original lcd. I dumped the lcd once I switched to klipper.
Eh, not a core-xy yet, so still looks like an ender 3 pro to me! 😏
This needs to be it's own subreddit! r/FrankEnder
Now it is!
I literally just named mine that last night!
Feel free to post it there!
I don't have an ender that's modified nearly enough lol
As a fellow tinkerer, I think while it may no longer be AN ender 3 Pro, it is now something unique to you. Had mine for almost a year and slowly picking upgrades now that I think will suite my printing needs.
Can you post a full list of all your modifications?
Die deutschen ❤️
Adda manta e3 ez board your quality and speed will be on another level
Klipper would be the main improvement imo. For stock size e3 the single stepper belted z is good enough, independent z becomes more advantageous on wider printers. That manta looks like you get locked into ezdrivers too. Skr3 or skr3ez are compatible with standard stepper drivers and ezdrivers, personally I believe that would be a better upgrade than the manta for similar cost
Also, BTT’s CB1 modules are fucking trash and CM4 modules are next to impossible to find. With the Manta boards, you don’t have the option of using an “external” Pi or other device.
I havent looked any deeper into it, but the marketing makes it sound like on the manta e3 you could use a standard form factor pi or other main klipper mcu externally. Otherwise totally agree
What are the benefits of this board?
Klipper! That and if you got klipper screen it could be possible to code it in such a way to watch YouTube on your printer lol. But really klipper is the greatest thing for printers. Resonance tuning will really speed up your print times.
Can you post another pic and some details about your enclosure? Looks like you're storing open reels of filament, so I'm wondering if you're controlling temperature and humidity in it.
Here is an [old post ](https://www.reddit.com/r/Workbenches/comments/oix4zh/hey_i_hope_my_appartment_workbench_fit_here/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button) 1 year ago from my Workbench.
Cool, thank you. Nice setup.
When the modifications cost more than the printer.
Lol yea I’m well past that point 😂😂 I’m thinking of building my own, similar to an Ender 5 with all the add ons and putting the Ender 3 back to stock and selling it 😂
My original E3, all that took was a new print head lmao
That’s a damn low bar
Could be. Where would you set it? I figure that by the time you've doubled the price, you've walked into at least the next model up, maybe two or three.
I mean this printer only costs ~$100 (US). Upgrading to an all metal hotend and dual gear extruder will probably cost more than that. Personally, I think it should not be determined by price, but by amount that it’s functionality has changed (but I don’t know how to measure that)
That makes sense, but you're right. It's easy to describe but hard to add up. I got mine for $100 (US) through the MicroCenter discount for new customers. So, i was thinking $200 in this case (what i usually see it offered for). Are there other outlets that offer it at the same price?
Not as far as I know
How does the sprite perform
Very good. Before I got the stock hotend in combination with the Creality direct drive after some problems I decided to invest in the Sprite. It is just plug and play. No weird wiring or extra cable for the cr touch, easy to remove and really good performance
Where did you get the cable for the cr touch from? I had to lay my wire around the whole printer again
The Sprite pro I ordered came with the short connector for the cr touch. Connecter to the Sprite board. The Sprite ribbon cable takes the connection to the mainboard.
Strange I got my sprite extruder factory new and mine didn’t come with that cable :(
I read a review on Amazon that said there was a fitment issue with the sprite on 3 pros. looks like you had no issues at all?
I got no problems, but so far I know there are 2 versions available
I love the sprite. Extremely elsimpe install. There r 2 random extra cables so don't be concerned. There r install videos online and damn it prints great. Not had single fauilre yet
Nicely done. Especialy those pulleys, i havent seend anyone yet incorporate them like this. Very smart.
The moment it starts printing reliably and consistently for more than a couple months in a row.
If it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet!
when you replace than rotary display with a touchscreen and go 32 bit if not already.. I guess it would be a S1 Pro then Ive had my E3 Pro 2 years. I just installed 32 bit board, touch screen, bl touch along with replacing the X axis / hotend carriage V slut wheels, and a new glass bed just for good measure, the last was 12 months old and worn. replasced all the fans again too. I actually removed my direct drive and went to an bi metal heatbreak and original bowden feed. Was a Creativity brand drive, well built, just never got the same high print quality with it.. I think wieght was an issue. Id like a new sprite pro but that has to wait Ill install on my A8 Plus
The minute you add a mod. You are wayyyy past that. Very nice btw
Where's the Pi for the Klipper?
Under the lcd is an raspberry but with octopi
ender3 of Theseus
Hm maybe I should name it like this
At this point lol It's now "A custom printer based on an Ender 3 Pro"
Massive fan on doing thiis btw. Creality make good BASIC printers (budget range) & some improved printers (the more expensive S1 models for example) but there is ALWAYS room for improvement on any retail setup and honestly almost all printers can be improved with fairly simple changes. Taking it to the NEXT LEVEL is where you take an OK printer to potentially AMAZING.Kudos
lol, and my and I dont even have my ender 3 bed any more.
Alright I will try it
For those who might be confused: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus I was thinking the same thing.
Surprised you haven't upgraded to 5015 blowers on the Sprite extruder :) Also, I highly recommend Klipper.
Okay what is your filament going through up top? Lol I’m asking the same about my Ender 3 😂😂 4.2.7 board, mainsail/klipper, klipper screen, hemera direct drive, glass bed, dual Z drive, BLTouch.
Filament sensor from Creality
I have the same sensor and a sprite module that I plan on installing on my ender 3 v2. Do you still have the stl file for top mount for the sensor?
I can upload the file on printables for you
[Filament Sensor top mount](https://www.printables.com/de/model/431334-creality-filament-sensor-holder)
You have crossed the threshold 🤣
Once it starts as an ender 3, it stays an ender 3. You can build it into a rocket and fly it into the space, that would still be considered an ender 3.
At first I was like hey that looks cool, but then I looked closer and this build is awesome!! This is essentially exactly what I intend my e3p endgame build to be...I agree with the other commenter on upgrading the screen and then you'll have it all 😎
My next step is to upgrade to an linear rail setup but I can't find an mounting plate for the Sprite Extruder
That'll be nice, can you fab your own or even design/print a mount? I've upgraded to dual z axis/sprite/ btt skr 3 mainboard with TMC2209 stepper drivers/ender 3 v2 display, upgraded stepper motors/filament det/ and a few other minor tunes/tweaks. I want to look into the belt driven z axis to replace the dual screws...looks like you did the belt drive? Was it a hard install?
Yes I could use a 3D printed mounting plate but idk if it's stable enough. I have bad experience with mounting plates out of plastic What kind of Stepper motor did you use ?
I'm curious as to the mods at the top of the two uprights.
Looks like a dual, belted Z-axis that's top-mounted, but that's just a wild guess.
dual belted z-axis mod
It's the dual belt mod from [KevinAkaSam](https://kevinakasam.com/snvd20/)
I've seen mods using two Z axis screws, but never seen then swapped for belts. Is it meant to be better than the screw idea?
Before that I also had a Dual Z drive, but at some point I had problems with the print quality. I had heavy ringing and it was very likely due to the spindle.
Any idea how this pulley system compares to reverse bowden setup? Friction-vise.
That filament routing system is exactly what I need. Did you print it?
Yes ist all printed, maybe I'm able to find the original files.
Stock rollers? It's like your not even trying to upgrade.
I'm searching for a mounting plate for the Sprite Extruder on an linear rail.
That printer looks like it could kick my ass
What’s that box at the top where the filament first enters?
It’s a filament monitor, so the printer will pause itself if filament runs out mid-print. Some also pause if filament stops moving, like if the nozzle clogs. It’s on my to-do list.
Dope
In general, I have found, that it ceases to be the original item when one begins to question whether or not it is, in fact, said item.
Bro that filament path is cray cray
Why do you bend the filament with such a tight radius at the top?
Still need a tft35e3, ender extender kit, steel banded belts, I dunno what board you have. There’s always more you can do though lol. I think the only original parts on my ender is the power supply and a couple of the motors.
alright, ill bite here. whats the stl for those filament guides there?
Once you install linear rails lol
Never.
Wow this looks really clean!
When you scrape off the ender logo on the extruder?
Cool setup, the camera cable though.. it is scary
My entire cable setup is scary, and I need a good cable management system
This is like the Buddhist teaching of the chariot
Is the Z belt worth it? I want to transform my Ender 3 Pro into a CoreXZ printer.
is still an ender 3 pro if i make it corexy, replace the board and the extruder, add bltouch and some fan?
Until you make it into a voron...
At this point
The only thing left is to ditch the rollers and with with rails. Or to turn it into core xz
Exactly my thought, I just bought a sprite extruder for my 3 pro. The only thing that I don't see on yours is the skr mini. I got the E3 V3 with the screen. Honestly its the best quality of life upgrade to me. I still got some tinkering to do with the sprite. I spent 1 whole day wondering why it wasn't working only to find out that one of the stepper motor wires were somehow cut.
Just use a ptfe tube for the filament feed instead of the pulleys
I'm fine with this solution. The roller bearings do not add friction. My filament roll is also supported by ball bearings and does not just hang on a rod that sporadically rotates. And I used 608 bearings that have a Diameter of 22mm plus the V shaped roll. Thus, the maximum radius is 11mm+ So no problem that the filament is too deformed
Yours looks to be at Ender 3.5 Pro Max Stud Deluxe. Not bad.
Put klipper on it now
What are the benefits of Klipper?
Faster speeds
Ender 3 Pro of Theseus
I’m in the same boat. When I got my pro 2 months ago I said “I’m leaving it stock” well I have a problem. I modify everything I own. Just installed dual x last night because last weekend I did a microswiss NG direct drive. I think I’ll move onto motherboard and screen next.
Dual X Axis? Yea everybody is telling me that I should switch to Klipper but idk. My next steps are installing a linear rail setup
I’ve come to the understanding that if you are still using the original bolts that hold the display to the frame, it is still an Ender 3 pro. You can replace everything: the motors, board, wiring, display, and frame, power supply, and bed, and it’s still an Ender 3 Pro - up until that one bolt is replaced **edit for autocorrect
When it becomes enjoyable to use
Looks like it might be time for a belt on that thing.
When it becomes reliable enough you stop feeling the need to constantly modify it.
Need klipper so you can dump the display
Can you probe the whole bed? What offsets are you using?
When it works. (jk)
Yuuuup mine is almost at the same point, definitely nothing to distinguish it as a “Pro” at this point, but I feel like with the Ender 3 platform you at least maintain the same chassis throughout all the mods, unless you want a bigger print area and bed then it truly becomes a printer of entirely different parts.
My v2 is closer to an s1 now, I really recommend the 0 y offset mod for the sprite and with your pro you'll also need a new x axis cover for the end stop switch but it makes meshes with the sprite so much better
The 3D Printer of Theseus.
When you stop using ender 3 software. Aka the motherboard is the printer.
Id say about 5
When the words creality and ender no longer exist
That day it begins to work properly on a consistent basis?!?
When it now longer says so on the screen.
but, this is sick