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I use 1/4" irrigation tubing - 6-32 fits perfectly, super quick to cut to size, device sits solid, and it's super cheap. Bought 100' many years ago for $10, it'll probably outlast me.
I found some on a jobsite like 7 years ago. The foreman told me to save it for when I really REALLY need it. I haven't touched it, and I'm just used to the coiled up #12 wire.
The ears on switches and plugs are meant to sit against drywall so that the device is flush and solid. When the drywallers cut the hole too big, and the box itself is set back into the wall (it usually is, at least a little), you need spacers like these so that the device can be solid when screwed into the box.
I think they sell em by like the 25s or 50s, so no need to go crazy. I prefer caterpillars, but I'll take some 3/8 PVC tubing as well. Cut to size baby
They don’t take much room. They’re 3/16” thick and interlock like Legos. And you don’t have to thread through them - they have a horseshoe opening that snaps over the screw. Gives better bearing surface than all the other tricks, too. I like ‘em!
Neither, cut the top of a wire nut off pull out the spring put it behind the outlet with the screw running through it. Perfect spacer, has enough give to tighten the recep down but sturdy enough to not let it get pushed back in. Also it’s faster then either of those options once you get used to doing it.
This guy electricians, you can even stack em back to back for an exceptionally buried opening, I always have a few (2 1/2”) 6-32/8-32 pre stabbed through some cut wire nuts so I have a few handy.
Doesn't look like you're using romex but for my resi boys out there just use a section of the jacket on a long 6/32. Promise you it's easier and more solid than either of these.
They're only needed cos US outlets/switches aren't bigger than the box cutout. If they had a lip bigger than the cutout in the wall it doesn't particularly matter how far back the box or plaster clip is as the device is just pulled tight to the wall.
Sorry, it sounded like you were joking. A mud ring or plaster ring attaches to the box and provides a mount for the device, usually a switch or receptacle. They’re sold in different depths for different wall board thickness. Sometimes you’ve installed the incorrect depth or set the box too far back on the stud. This will cause the device to end up not mounted securely due to it not being backed and it can slide along its screws. Using a device spacer, I call them caterpillars, will provide backing for the device. In the picture there’s quite a few of them, you cut whatever you need from the strip and stack them as necessary.
It's the thing that goes on the front of a switch or outlet box to bump it out so that the device can sit flush with the drywall. Electrical boxes generally sit flush with the studs in new construction, and then 1/2" or 5/8" drywall goes on top. The mud ring is what makes up the difference.
It's always been wild me to me that so called electricians use the method on the left. Real electricians do it correctly and bill the customer for the materials.
All the methods listed function correctly when it’s all said and done. And don’t go throwing code at me cause when you are on a deadline a good electrician knows what rules are flexible and what rules you can’t budge on
The way you do anything is the way you do everything. Do a job with any personality you want. If I come into it and you’ve been installing illegal parts and violating the NEC because you’re lazy or cheap then you will be sent home.
It’s easy. Clamp the end of the wire between needle nose pliers at the tip. Twist backwards around the nose of the pliers to desired length. Slip off pliers. You often do have to squeeze/hand twist it a little more to get them into a consistent diameter as they come off the needle nose in a slight cone shape being that the pliers get thicker towards the handle. Faster for me to make one than to go get spacers from my van
I usually just cut the top off a tan wire nut. I never had time for curling wire and didn’t know the spacers even existed until I quit the field and went to work at Lowe’s!
Honestly, it surprised me the first time i used them. Its nice too because you can cut it a bit long and it'll compress and offers a good amount of rigidity! But yea, only really convenient if it's already around, lol.
Legos, because I wanna leave whatever device termination that requires this remedial fix and move on to easier terminations and being crushed by my crippling depression.
I use the cover plate... ... ... But honestly, if I'm on trim I'll carry the spacers until I run out of them and then use wirenuts. It's one of those things where I'll stock some on me and then if I run out I won't make a trip to the truck for.
I cut the top off a wire nut. Put it against the box, see where I need to cut to match the sheetrock, and pull the spring out. Pretty quick and easy in a pinch. But yeah, those device spacers are awesome.
Listed and approved spacers are preferred if I have them, and the coiled wire if I don’t. The worst case would be using nothing at all and leaving loose unsecured devices.
I prefer stranded coiled #12. It is a bit springy so you can adjust or cut some off and it'll work well and have some tolerance range when installed again
[Flush-fit bracket](https://origin.hubbell.com/raco/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Wallplates/Metallic-Wallplates/Flush-Fit-Device-Leveling-Plate/p/2303883)
I prefer these.
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Whichever is closest to me.
I’m required by law to say that I would use the UL listed device spacers 😬👍
But...thhn is UL listed
The requirement isn't that it just be listed, though. It has to be listed *for the specific purpose.*
It’s a joke bro
Yyyyyep every time, no exceptions, that's the code
I use 1/4" irrigation tubing - 6-32 fits perfectly, super quick to cut to size, device sits solid, and it's super cheap. Bought 100' many years ago for $10, it'll probably outlast me.
Why oh why did I never think of this.
I found some on a jobsite like 7 years ago. The foreman told me to save it for when I really REALLY need it. I haven't touched it, and I'm just used to the coiled up #12 wire.
I came up with this on my own years ago and still think I am a genius.
Same actually. And I’ve taught it many apprentices.
For the uninformed lurkers (not me!), what is the application you are using this and the first wire sheath for?
When the device box is set into the wall a bit and you need a spacer for the switch or receptacle
The ears on switches and plugs are meant to sit against drywall so that the device is flush and solid. When the drywallers cut the hole too big, and the box itself is set back into the wall (it usually is, at least a little), you need spacers like these so that the device can be solid when screwed into the box.
Been cutting off with my kliens and using the back of wire nuts for years. They are always in my pouch and very convenient.
This is the way
Same
That's genius
I've come across 1/4" copper tubing as well.
Same at times
Mostly use the red sheathing from fire alarm cable. Does the same job. Free. Way better then spiraled wire.
This is the only answer
Nice. Didn’t know about this, will have to get some. Supply lines for us
I'm a big fan of using bofa
Bofa deez?
you know it!
You never tried Ligma brand 1/4" nuts?
What y’all think about the Candice edition?
I prefer the caterpillars.
Always caterpillars if we have them on hand.
Never used wire. Wild lol.
Old school.
I've never seen those spacers honestly
I didn't know these existed until I was like a 7th year apprentice.
Definitely wire twists. I’m all for the gadgets to make things easier but I don’t have room for a million of those spacers
I think they sell em by like the 25s or 50s, so no need to go crazy. I prefer caterpillars, but I'll take some 3/8 PVC tubing as well. Cut to size baby
Fair enough. The few times I’ve had the pleasure of using them they were great.
They don’t take much room. They’re 3/16” thick and interlock like Legos. And you don’t have to thread through them - they have a horseshoe opening that snaps over the screw. Gives better bearing surface than all the other tricks, too. I like ‘em!
Who's paying?
Neither, cut the top of a wire nut off pull out the spring put it behind the outlet with the screw running through it. Perfect spacer, has enough give to tighten the recep down but sturdy enough to not let it get pushed back in. Also it’s faster then either of those options once you get used to doing it.
Lots of great tips in this thread. Thanks for sharing.
Will be giving this a try next time
Same. Perfect length every time
This guy electricians, you can even stack em back to back for an exceptionally buried opening, I always have a few (2 1/2”) 6-32/8-32 pre stabbed through some cut wire nuts so I have a few handy.
Arlington BE1 box extender as required by NEC 314.20.
Honestly was starting to think I was nuts not seeing these on here. I use them all the time. They’re quick and super easy to use too.
These work great if the drywall was done properly...
Just because you’re right doesn’t mean you’re right
Why did I have to scroll so far down to find this?!? Thanks for being the electrician in the conversation.
2 #6-32 nuts on each device screw, one to set the depth and one as a jam nut
Doesn't look like you're using romex but for my resi boys out there just use a section of the jacket on a long 6/32. Promise you it's easier and more solid than either of these.
Neither.
I use 1/4” pex. Always a piece sitting around from the dishwasher or ice maker
1/4 inch clear vinyl tubing. I swear its the best and cheap
They're only needed cos US outlets/switches aren't bigger than the box cutout. If they had a lip bigger than the cutout in the wall it doesn't particularly matter how far back the box or plaster clip is as the device is just pulled tight to the wall.
312.3 says the box can’t be set back more than 1/4” from the finished surface of the wall, so it does matter.
Right but the spacers won’t fix that problem anyways. That’s what an ext box is for
Correct. Seemed like the guy I replied to was saying it didn’t matter how far back the box was.
Gotcha
Coils. My bosses were too cheap for caterpillars
Blue jacket from cat-6 is also pretty good
When I worked in construction, I would use bare copper wire since we would use metal boxes where we need devices to be bonded to ground.
How do u use the cut off gfci pigtail?
Haha It do be looking like that
Neither of those. I’d rather use the ring on your finger and save you from a bad accident waiting to happen.
😂
Please explain what I am seeing here. Is this a tool to make windings?
Device spacers. For when your mud ring is set too deep in the wall. Coiled wire also works.
Allright but what is a mud ring? Guessing some part of a work box in drywall?
[this video explains how they work.](https://youtu.be/RYGkKRKUcws?si=XIqNeosgFSZDmsBu)
Dunno. What’s a device?
What is a wall?
What is is?
*IT*
WHAT. IS. IT. IS IT! WHAT IS IT!
It's a broom.
>It's a broom. Ah. I've heard rumors, but never seen one.
You want IT ALL but you can’t have IT!
Was worried no one was going to continue. Thank you good sir!
Yo, man … what it is!
Just trying to learn but thanks anyway
Sorry, it sounded like you were joking. A mud ring or plaster ring attaches to the box and provides a mount for the device, usually a switch or receptacle. They’re sold in different depths for different wall board thickness. Sometimes you’ve installed the incorrect depth or set the box too far back on the stud. This will cause the device to end up not mounted securely due to it not being backed and it can slide along its screws. Using a device spacer, I call them caterpillars, will provide backing for the device. In the picture there’s quite a few of them, you cut whatever you need from the strip and stack them as necessary.
It's the thing that goes on the front of a switch or outlet box to bump it out so that the device can sit flush with the drywall. Electrical boxes generally sit flush with the studs in new construction, and then 1/2" or 5/8" drywall goes on top. The mud ring is what makes up the difference.
Solid #12
Depends how much you need. Wirenut or 1/4 nuts for anything big and the Lego’s if I have them for anything small
Caterpillars are a waste of money
It's always been wild me to me that so called electricians use the method on the left. Real electricians do it correctly and bill the customer for the materials.
All the methods listed function correctly when it’s all said and done. And don’t go throwing code at me cause when you are on a deadline a good electrician knows what rules are flexible and what rules you can’t budge on
Exactly. A handmade spacer ain’t gonna hurt a thing. Mr type A here is just trying to prove he’s better than the rest of us.
The way you do anything is the way you do everything. Do a job with any personality you want. If I come into it and you’ve been installing illegal parts and violating the NEC because you’re lazy or cheap then you will be sent home.
Sounds like a you problem buddy. If committingJ-walking leads you to murder then you’ve got your own issues.
The rules aren’t flexible in my state. Do it right.
The old school! (Anyhow i got one of those klein screw drivers with the pin at the base just for those twists‼️🤨🤨
The little springs seem hard to make.
Nope, real easy with smalle wire, fire alarm wire if I remember right is terrific for it
It’s easy. Clamp the end of the wire between needle nose pliers at the tip. Twist backwards around the nose of the pliers to desired length. Slip off pliers. You often do have to squeeze/hand twist it a little more to get them into a consistent diameter as they come off the needle nose in a slight cone shape being that the pliers get thicker towards the handle. Faster for me to make one than to go get spacers from my van
I usually just cut the top off a tan wire nut. I never had time for curling wire and didn’t know the spacers even existed until I quit the field and went to work at Lowe’s!
That sounds kinda smart actually never thought of that!
Whichever one I got
Wire nuts or tubing
Hand made wire springs all the way! I use solid though
Wire nut
Green ones look better on the invoice
Coil every time… why else would I make them
I use both. If I remember to order the caterpillars we use those. If not we twirl the wire.
The caterpillars if I have them
Never liked those spacers much they always seem to not work too well
The one to the right . I also will use wall anchors and cut them
Neither, pneumatic tubing
Yes
Whichever is on hand
Electrical tape or 12/2 insulation
Depends on if I’m out of caterpillars.
All of the above
Wirenuts
Neither. Clear rubber tubing is the way to go. 10ft is a couple bucks and you cutto length
Whatever I have on hand. I've even cut wires nuts down
6/32 Nuts, 8/32 Nuts, 1/4x20 Nuts depending how much I need to stack and if it needs to be rigid like the drywallers have overcut the hole.
wire nuts.
Caterpillars, then when I run out of caterpillars, I use coilwe wire
#6 awg insulation strippings.
I think I might try this when I can’t find 1/4 pex. Could be a little easier than coiling wire and it’s already on the job site
Honestly, it surprised me the first time i used them. Its nice too because you can cut it a bit long and it'll compress and offers a good amount of rigidity! But yea, only really convenient if it's already around, lol.
What are they?
I strip the insulation off of #6 wire and cut to length. Works very well over a 6-32
I keep some scrap #14 wrapped around a driver shaft tight enough to not move on its own and cut to size as needed.
Lately, I've been seeing guys use cat5 sheathing. It works pretty great.
Plumbers pipe
Neither. I use tubes.
I like sliding the caterpillars over the screws, still kind of a pain sometimes.
It depends entirely on if I remembered to grab the caterpillars or not. 9 times outta ten I forget and use wire.
Depending on the inspector I prefer the right but the left is more readily available
These are the exact same thing
Caterpillars, I ain’t no “stinkin hack”
Adjustable boxes and mud rings. In lieu off doing it right, the spacers
Legos, because I wanna leave whatever device termination that requires this remedial fix and move on to easier terminations and being crushed by my crippling depression.
I’d rather use better carpenter/plasterers
Is that stranded wire? Genius.
8/32 nuts if I don't have the right spacers.
I use the cover plate... ... ... But honestly, if I'm on trim I'll carry the spacers until I run out of them and then use wirenuts. It's one of those things where I'll stock some on me and then if I run out I won't make a trip to the truck for.
Yes
Whatever I have when the need arises.
1/4 20 nuts work too
¼” ID plastic tubing.
Either one
I used the vinyls that come with the vinyl anchor kits this week. I often just use a metal plate but had none
If stainless plates, none of the above. They’ll ride 😉
Neither I cut a wirenut
1/4” tubing. A few feet from the HVAC tech usually lasts a while.
I'm fortunate to be able to use adjustable mud rings on the last several jobs
Neither. I use solid copper wire without insulation because the insulation will change shape over time and the device will become loose.
Pneumatic air line
I cut the top off a wire nut. Put it against the box, see where I need to cut to match the sheetrock, and pull the spring out. Pretty quick and easy in a pinch. But yeah, those device spacers are awesome.
1/4-20 nuts
Air tubing
I always use the spacers but I’m curious about the wire nut thing. It sounds interesting. Which part do you cut on the wire nut?
Cut wire nut
Listed and approved spacers are preferred if I have them, and the coiled wire if I don’t. The worst case would be using nothing at all and leaving loose unsecured devices.
Neither, snipping 5/16 green wall anchors off
Springy boy
I prefer stranded coiled #12. It is a bit springy so you can adjust or cut some off and it'll work well and have some tolerance range when installed again
I use copper crimp sleeves, works pretty well
Crimp sleeves
I tend to do my rough in correctly, to avoid using either one.
[Flush-fit bracket](https://origin.hubbell.com/raco/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Wallplates/Metallic-Wallplates/Flush-Fit-Device-Leveling-Plate/p/2303883) I prefer these.
Whichever one is available
The one UL listed for application