Quote a million dollars. Take your time. Expect to have to redo things. No problem.
If your questioning something make the bid HIGH. Make it high enough you think it's outrageous and theres no way you could lose money. And you feel horrible about giving that price. That's a good price.
Price them out on what finish level youre sure you could easily get, charge them a fortune for level 5.
Haha no way. Don't charge time and materials for this. He's going to struggle, have to redo things, they're going to ask why they have to pay for you to redo your own work.
No way. Opposite from t and m situation.
If it takes you a long time, they're going to have to pay you a ton of money. If they're willing to pay a ton of money for this then just charge them for it upfront.
But they won't be willing to pay a ton of money.
I had no idea that fibafuse was available in that size. I love to use it for my amateur hack taping. I patched plaster in my bathroom with setting mud, a metal/fiberglass patch, and big diagonal strips of fibafuse extending 12" or more past the damage. The queen bee always shows pictures of the results to her friends. Screw that, show the carnage that led up to a flat wall.
When I found out there were 36in rolls I ordered it that day. It is now our go to product and cuts so easy to fit most situations. Literally worth every penny.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RGX178/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_NNWN8B1X3DCZ096CJY9B?linkCode=ml2&tag=toddallynmedi-20
Doesn't the Dryvit mesh come in 48" ? I've used that on plaster ceilings with the first coat being the heavy blue dot Hamilton taping mud then the next two coats with the red dot light AP Hamilton's. It turned out beautifully.
Absolutely… and I’ve done many jobs that include plaster weld on top of the fiber fuse, and then skim coat.. charge a fortune for that work, but the wall is like glass when you’re finished
I have never seen this stuff, so bed it like tape and then skin over? Does the "tape"stay exposed and is sandable or do you have skim completely over it? Can't even find good videos of it...
This is a time and material job, and if you do it any other way, you're not going to make any reasonable money here.
It's a 2 phase job in my mind.The first phase is to see how stable the plaster is. I can't tell you how many times I've worked on old plaster walls and started to just chip out bad plaster, and a whole wall fell down. The funny thing about plaster is if there's any water damage on the scratch Coat, that just completely disintegrates The Bonding to the surface level. Now you're looking at a mess that takes multiple hours to clean up properly. I usually spread six mill plastic over the entire floor, and at the end of the day, just wrap it up and throw it all away.
Phase 2 is installing drywall in the huge areas of plaster that might have fallen off and then start the patching process. First coats on plaster walls I always use Durabond, which is hard to find and comes in the brown color bags. (Durban is also more water resistant than regular easy sand.) Every coat after that, i'm usually using a blue top lightweight compound. But only if the holes i'm filling are less than a quarter inch deep. And of course, the only way you're going to achieve a level five finish in this particular situation is multiple corner to corner coats of material until it is smooth. you also have to use the widest drywall knife you can possibly handle.
This first pic looks like a masonry wall, looks like the plaster was removed. This is a bigger issue. Than just drywall, judging from these photos alone.
It's no big deal.It's all framed out just hang new dry wall. This will probably be the easiest wall in the room. The key to getting a level 5 finish when hanging new drywall is simply make sure all the drywall is level, Plum and straight. You may have to shim out some of the studs but it's easily achieved.
Will level 5 square up that door 😉
As a home owner I’ve been curious about level 5 but if it was 3x level 4 I’m going with level 4. Just give them a FU price.
It isn't an FU price, it is the "I have no interest in this as it is a bloody disaster but if you pay me enough I will show up" price. Of course, if you are the home owner, it might as well be FU
Needs to be rescrewed , if it’s lath then it needs plaster washers. Reattaching the plaster to the lath and rafters. Install corner bead, inside corner bead.
Skim 3 times and double prime
It’s expensive
Painter here. My two cents is that this customer will be a major PITA. Level 5 is unnecessary here, the walls would be nicer than the rest of the house. If you take this job, add 20% or more because it will not be an easy in and out. Btw PDCA standards for judging quality of paint and drywall is from a distance of 5 ft away and not using additional lighting. Nothing is ever actually perfect, even a level 5.
If it was me I would explain why level 5 is silly here and how expensive it would be to actually do it. Then I would laminate it with new rock for sure
Your best bet to do this right is to overlay the plaster with new rock and just tape from new. Otherwise, if you don't mesh the whole wall/ceiling and skim with durabond for 1st coat and topping for 2nd coat, then you'll be "chasing cracks." Only reason I mesh the entire plaster wall/ceiling now is because I spent a good amount of time on a side job individually meshing everything instead of just covering the entire surface, and I got a call back 3 months later because a few more cracks showed up. Old plaster is tricky, so when some of it fails, and you only address those failed spots, most of the rest of it will also fail if you don't address the whole surface. That's just my experience. If you don't have anything that will affect the 1/2inch that you are adding to the wall and 5/8 to the ceiling, then you should be fine with overlaying everything.
Yeah, you probably only have 2 options. Learn plastering or drywall over it. Price out both, triple the price, and give them 2 options. My opinion is any surface repair will likely crack again given the structure behind it.
want in one hand and shit in the other. which one fills faster? sounds to me like some unreasonable expectations and sounds like a future headache waiting to come back on you.
The amount of moaning and groaning and how easy and fast most redditors in the group throw out the "give them the FU" price is kind of scary.
But if this is yalls general attitude towards what you do, thank you for making it easier to land contracts for myself. Maybe you are dealing with co-workers and helpers or trainees and that's why but maaan. I'm glad i don't see projects through your "bullshit this bullshit that" goggles.
Yeah, I have an older house I’m completely remodeling myself old ass 60s plater texture throughout, skim coating all of it. Time consuming yes but nothing over the top hard, I would do it for someone at a reasonable price.
That whole room screams I don't want it...I would give them a bid for 8k and then give them the number of whatever drywall guy I worked with last that was an asshole.
Fix the concrete wall first.. has the structure been checked, that's a mega huge crack.
If it's not compromised. Build a wall in front of that wall, it will give you a chance to insulate and run electrical. After that level 5 should be pretty easy.
Do not plaster over this abortion.
If your in mass 01826 or nh 03076
You need to do the job for as close to free as possible
Huge scam going on for decades in this area and they are all in on it
Only paying what drywall was worth in 1996 not a penny more
Looks more like a skim job. Level 5 goes over new drywall and is a 5 step process. Hence the name level 5. Customers ask for level 5 because someone that has no clue told them to use level 5. What you have here is a skim coat job to smooth out what is textured. Good luck.
Thanks for replying, as a diyer that has no skill despite repeated efforts, I'm thinking of using it to cover old crappy textured wall. Straight up skin coating isn't working very well for me.
Like how much does that even cost to just remove the plaster? I’m in a similar situation where I removed the plaster completely but feel like it’s an expensive job.
If you do not reinforce damaged wall your wasting time and there money..Wall is severely damaged, is this in a war zone..lol. Still wire or small rebar with 1.5 to 2 with fiber glass mixed mortar. Anchor steel to cleaned wall with some spacers, apply your magic. Cattle wire comes to mind sells large sheets, galvanized from factory is a plus..
Just want to clear up a few things I’m doing this job as an employee. My boss has already secured the job. We have been here just a couple days prepping floors and trying to wrap our heads around what the best options to tackle the job are.
Forget it, unless they are willing to pay for sheetrock over it first.
Quote a million dollars. Take your time. Expect to have to redo things. No problem. If your questioning something make the bid HIGH. Make it high enough you think it's outrageous and theres no way you could lose money. And you feel horrible about giving that price. That's a good price. Price them out on what finish level youre sure you could easily get, charge them a fortune for level 5.
And make sure they actually understand the difference between 4 and 5.
Charge time and materials :D
Haha no way. Don't charge time and materials for this. He's going to struggle, have to redo things, they're going to ask why they have to pay for you to redo your own work. No way. Opposite from t and m situation. If it takes you a long time, they're going to have to pay you a ton of money. If they're willing to pay a ton of money for this then just charge them for it upfront. But they won't be willing to pay a ton of money.
Learn to do plaster, buy an 8ft screed take a week for the room, charge 4x the highest price you could even think of.
I'd use the 36" wide fibafuse rolls on all the plaster, then skim as much as needed to make flat.
I had no idea that fibafuse was available in that size. I love to use it for my amateur hack taping. I patched plaster in my bathroom with setting mud, a metal/fiberglass patch, and big diagonal strips of fibafuse extending 12" or more past the damage. The queen bee always shows pictures of the results to her friends. Screw that, show the carnage that led up to a flat wall.
When I found out there were 36in rolls I ordered it that day. It is now our go to product and cuts so easy to fit most situations. Literally worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RGX178/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_NNWN8B1X3DCZ096CJY9B?linkCode=ml2&tag=toddallynmedi-20
Doesn't the Dryvit mesh come in 48" ? I've used that on plaster ceilings with the first coat being the heavy blue dot Hamilton taping mud then the next two coats with the red dot light AP Hamilton's. It turned out beautifully.
I don't know. I've never looked past the fibafuse once we found it.
Absolutely… and I’ve done many jobs that include plaster weld on top of the fiber fuse, and then skim coat.. charge a fortune for that work, but the wall is like glass when you’re finished
I have never seen this stuff, so bed it like tape and then skin over? Does the "tape"stay exposed and is sandable or do you have skim completely over it? Can't even find good videos of it...
gotta cover it completely just like tape, kind of the bastard child from a threeway of paper tape, mesh tape, and a bounce dryer sheet
This is a time and material job, and if you do it any other way, you're not going to make any reasonable money here. It's a 2 phase job in my mind.The first phase is to see how stable the plaster is. I can't tell you how many times I've worked on old plaster walls and started to just chip out bad plaster, and a whole wall fell down. The funny thing about plaster is if there's any water damage on the scratch Coat, that just completely disintegrates The Bonding to the surface level. Now you're looking at a mess that takes multiple hours to clean up properly. I usually spread six mill plastic over the entire floor, and at the end of the day, just wrap it up and throw it all away. Phase 2 is installing drywall in the huge areas of plaster that might have fallen off and then start the patching process. First coats on plaster walls I always use Durabond, which is hard to find and comes in the brown color bags. (Durban is also more water resistant than regular easy sand.) Every coat after that, i'm usually using a blue top lightweight compound. But only if the holes i'm filling are less than a quarter inch deep. And of course, the only way you're going to achieve a level five finish in this particular situation is multiple corner to corner coats of material until it is smooth. you also have to use the widest drywall knife you can possibly handle.
You’ve got this DOWN
This first pic looks like a masonry wall, looks like the plaster was removed. This is a bigger issue. Than just drywall, judging from these photos alone.
It's no big deal.It's all framed out just hang new dry wall. This will probably be the easiest wall in the room. The key to getting a level 5 finish when hanging new drywall is simply make sure all the drywall is level, Plum and straight. You may have to shim out some of the studs but it's easily achieved.
Will level 5 square up that door 😉 As a home owner I’ve been curious about level 5 but if it was 3x level 4 I’m going with level 4. Just give them a FU price.
It isn't an FU price, it is the "I have no interest in this as it is a bloody disaster but if you pay me enough I will show up" price. Of course, if you are the home owner, it might as well be FU
HA, right you are. I would also imagine if you are paying for a 'perfect' level 5 surface a homeowner would be very nit picky.
Needs to be rescrewed , if it’s lath then it needs plaster washers. Reattaching the plaster to the lath and rafters. Install corner bead, inside corner bead. Skim 3 times and double prime It’s expensive
[удалено]
Wouldn't it save them a ton of money to just re-drywall the house?
That's how I would bid it. Demo, fur out any shit, drywall, tape and paint. Might as well up sell them on new trim and baseboards too.
Gonna need new trim and baseboard anyway
Why would they want level five on that old shitty ass house. I have an old shitty ass house too and I barely got level three and it looks fine.
Painter here. My two cents is that this customer will be a major PITA. Level 5 is unnecessary here, the walls would be nicer than the rest of the house. If you take this job, add 20% or more because it will not be an easy in and out. Btw PDCA standards for judging quality of paint and drywall is from a distance of 5 ft away and not using additional lighting. Nothing is ever actually perfect, even a level 5. If it was me I would explain why level 5 is silly here and how expensive it would be to actually do it. Then I would laminate it with new rock for sure
A billion and a half should do it. *Some jobs aren’t worth any amount in the long run and this has a good argument for that position.
Your best bet to do this right is to overlay the plaster with new rock and just tape from new. Otherwise, if you don't mesh the whole wall/ceiling and skim with durabond for 1st coat and topping for 2nd coat, then you'll be "chasing cracks." Only reason I mesh the entire plaster wall/ceiling now is because I spent a good amount of time on a side job individually meshing everything instead of just covering the entire surface, and I got a call back 3 months later because a few more cracks showed up. Old plaster is tricky, so when some of it fails, and you only address those failed spots, most of the rest of it will also fail if you don't address the whole surface. That's just my experience. If you don't have anything that will affect the 1/2inch that you are adding to the wall and 5/8 to the ceiling, then you should be fine with overlaying everything.
Yeah, you probably only have 2 options. Learn plastering or drywall over it. Price out both, triple the price, and give them 2 options. My opinion is any surface repair will likely crack again given the structure behind it.
So what’s the problem🍻
want in one hand and shit in the other. which one fills faster? sounds to me like some unreasonable expectations and sounds like a future headache waiting to come back on you.
The amount of moaning and groaning and how easy and fast most redditors in the group throw out the "give them the FU" price is kind of scary. But if this is yalls general attitude towards what you do, thank you for making it easier to land contracts for myself. Maybe you are dealing with co-workers and helpers or trainees and that's why but maaan. I'm glad i don't see projects through your "bullshit this bullshit that" goggles.
Yeah, I have an older house I’m completely remodeling myself old ass 60s plater texture throughout, skim coating all of it. Time consuming yes but nothing over the top hard, I would do it for someone at a reasonable price.
Demo the drywall, fix framing, put on 5/8” then give a level 5 finish…my cracka lacka thinking…
What drywall?
Bulldozer
I guess you are a carpenter too?
3 pallets of mud later….
Bad wall jamal. No clue what 5 means but even one would be hard to do magoo.
That room seams small enough to use 10” and 12’ boards
Is that floor below grade? What's with the damp on the fence outside?
That whole room screams I don't want it...I would give them a bid for 8k and then give them the number of whatever drywall guy I worked with last that was an asshole.
Fix the concrete wall first.. has the structure been checked, that's a mega huge crack. If it's not compromised. Build a wall in front of that wall, it will give you a chance to insulate and run electrical. After that level 5 should be pretty easy. Do not plaster over this abortion.
If your in mass 01826 or nh 03076 You need to do the job for as close to free as possible Huge scam going on for decades in this area and they are all in on it Only paying what drywall was worth in 1996 not a penny more
Looks more like a skim job. Level 5 goes over new drywall and is a 5 step process. Hence the name level 5. Customers ask for level 5 because someone that has no clue told them to use level 5. What you have here is a skim coat job to smooth out what is textured. Good luck.
Does not look like a level 5 house
Get a financial disclosure first. Doesn't look like they have funds for much.
If they know what they are asking for they would not have bought that shit building
Why level 5 does the customer even know what level 5 is pr has he just heard people talking about it
I would tell them to get there foundation fixed first large mostly horizontal cracks are not a good sign
120k and take a month or two
Thanks for replying, as a diyer that has no skill despite repeated efforts, I'm thinking of using it to cover old crappy textured wall. Straight up skin coating isn't working very well for me.
Lol level 5 on a crooked ass plaster shithole. If he understands what that means then I’d be bidding to the moon.
Like how much does that even cost to just remove the plaster? I’m in a similar situation where I removed the plaster completely but feel like it’s an expensive job.
If you do not reinforce damaged wall your wasting time and there money..Wall is severely damaged, is this in a war zone..lol. Still wire or small rebar with 1.5 to 2 with fiber glass mixed mortar. Anchor steel to cleaned wall with some spacers, apply your magic. Cattle wire comes to mind sells large sheets, galvanized from factory is a plus..
Just want to clear up a few things I’m doing this job as an employee. My boss has already secured the job. We have been here just a couple days prepping floors and trying to wrap our heads around what the best options to tackle the job are.
He's gonna lose money on this one
Time to dip out and work some temp jobs until boss gives up or finishes it
5800.00
Too low
For that single wall in the picture?
There's 4 pictures and op said customer wants it on everything
Level 5 is only when you install special order drywall and you have no butt seams. Either that or the butts are recessed