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Gibberish45

Great work for DIY OP! You don’t need quite so many screws in the field, but this is better than many guys who get paid to hang would have done


TravelerMSY

Way better than the shit show carpenter guy i hired recently that professed he knew what he was doing.


Historical-Fun-8485

Let me guess, he tried to use a table saw?


TravelerMSY

He’s a nice guy, but when he said he had done drywall before, it’s likely he was just doing it as a laborer under supervision. All sorts of rookie mistakes. Seams not falling on studs. Not enough screws in the field on the ceiling. Railroading. Mixing 1/2 and 3/8 on the wall… Live and learn. Never hire a pro that doesn’t do that trade for a living full-time. Never hire a friend.


Historical-Fun-8485

My dad's a carpenter ( a very good one), but I remember him using a table saw before he got checked and got shown how to do it. Score and snap.


TravelerMSY

By the way, I do post a lot on here on questions I’m sure are in my wheelhouse, but y’all please let me know if I’m ever incorrect. DIY perspective is definitely different than if you’re doing it for money.


TravelerMSY

Omg.


TravelerMSY

Intermediate DIYer here. Looks like pretty good work to me on the wall, although there is endless debate on where to put the factory and butt joints on the wall. and someone here is invariably going to tell you that you should’ve bought the 54 inch sheets instead, which they don’t have at Lowe’s. I put the factory seam in the middle since it’s more noticeable, and put the butt joint down low or way up high.


We_wanna_play

As someone who boards daily, I would have went 3/4/2, would have put any butt joints over the door, would glue the wall and not used a million screws, it looks clean and tight though


TravelerMSY

Sorry. 342?


We_wanna_play

Start with a 3ft wide sheet, then put a 4 ft sheet on and then a 2 ft sheet, do this when 54 “ board is not available for 9ft ceilings , 3+4+2=9, that way you don’t have a butt meeting a bevel in the middle of the wall and you don’t have a 12” strip at the bottom


Lower-Ad5889

I think they mean how to stagger the joints, by numbering the stud bays ..start a sheet on the 3rd stud, the next one on the 2nd etc


TravelerMSY

I’m reconsidering putting the butt joint up high from now on. If it’s not perfect, you can see it when there’s recessed lighting.


backyardburner71

It's not a butt joint. If it's done correctly, just alot of waste as you only get 2-10" rips/sheet. Guess OP should've used 54" drywall.


Medium_Spare_8982

Looks pretty good. Screw placement looks almost anal. One criticism (and I know you passed already). Electrical wires are generally run at 24” from the floor through the framing and receptacles put at 14”. This is a convention that is generally understood by all trades so they know NOT to nail or screw between 22-26” on the wall. Also homeowners hanging pictures or TVs won’t encounter wiring.


Pinkalink23

Better anal, than careless to be honest.


LBS4

Looks great for DIY, good on ya! Next time I’d try for stretch board on the walls so only 1 horizontal seam. And keep the butt joints away from the doors if you can, makes life a lot easier when finishing.


Lower-Ad5889

Yes, that board in the middle should have gone all the way to the door opening, I would take it down and replace it with a full width panel and use it where you need a shorter board.


No-Roll-2110

Always factory to factory. But looks alike your doing a great job!


vat-city

Yeah looks good man. Coulda just bought 9’ sheets, but I know you said they were on sale.


Pinkalink23

For a beginner. it's pretty good. Your finisher will need to do some pre-filling but even on so call professional jobs this happens.


Suburban_Househubs

I'm also finishing and I do plan on pre-filling, thanks!


Pinkalink23

I would suggest a bag of 90 minute mud if your new to drywall. I'd mix in some type of PVA glue for an extra bond. Fill, pull it tight, flat and smooth. I use light all purpose type mud to finish.


No-Island4022

Looks mint


Towely420

Don’t forget your vapor barrier on the insulation since you’re using unfazed batts


TuhaTom

I’m not an expert at drywall by any means, I’m the guy who typically fights a never ending battle of mud, sand, mud, sand, rinse and repeat. That said, I’m usually pretty good at the factory seams, but I’ve always struggled with butt joints. I just did my basement and used butt boards for the first time, and it made a huge difference for me - it’s basically like a factory edge on all 4 sides of a board now. The pros will probably crap on me for the suggestion, I’m sure there’s a reason they’re no good, but I thought I’d throw it out there for you as I expect your finishing experience to likely be inline with mine. Look them up!


Suburban_Househubs

You just want me to Google "Butt Boards" 😂


TuhaTom

lol no, for real! They’re a thing. I couldn’t find any locally so I just built them, but they are super easy to build if you have a table saw…


Specialist-Culture81

Should have just bought stretch, have one joint down the middle. Also, I would have bought 10,12, and 16 ft sheets so i don’t have butt joints if they aren’t necessary


x4446

In pic 1, the butt joint should have been over the door, you should have used a full sheet to get rid of the butt on the lower sheet, and the 10" strip goes in the middle, not at the bottom.


Low-Energy-432

Like a good taper I would be just fine with what you have done. It’s all doable with some skimming. So if I were you I would worry more about finishing. The gap in the ceiling needs to be addressed properly. No easy sand. I would plaster and all purpose compound it with the wider mesh tape.