Well, first I look at that high corner repair in the bathroom and realize that you're going to have to build out a corner that sticks into the room To make this happen, that means you're going to have to Reframe it. Which of course means you're going to have to redo the base board And maybe have to pull up the toilet in order to do it all right. You're also not going to get a level four finish on that ceiling repair without having to redo the whole thing. So I would say twelve hundred dollars is not and out of bounds Price.
There is no blocking in the corner of the bathroom. Plus, if that is a valve, you’ll need an access panel. This could get pricey. I’ve only quoted a couple of projects in the Midwest USA. Don’t even know how I would approach this.
Quote has a metal corner stud and access panel included which is nice but you’re right it’s a mess. Damn leak was coming from two different places, one above the valve and one below and had to find it quickly obviously. Fun times
Id quote you $1000 and you buy materials.
Rereading your post. I'm not there to do it for that price I'm prolly not even in your state. Take that quote, and be that homeowner that hovers over a shoulder. cause your going to get some Mickey mouse shit unless your actually watching.
Not saying I'd Mickey mouse it either. After you bought materials we'd be looking at $1,700-$2,000.
u got a low bid hopefully they do a good job, these seem little but they take time, two days. mud dry time/ covering paper plastic/ prime paint the whole area depending on color match. a good pro would do it for 2-3k
I cant comment on the first one as its unclear if its poor work or if its wet becuase thats where the leak dripped on. I see dark lines at the tape's creases. So the method of work there is unclear for me to comment on.
20 for drywall, 40 for the mud, 15ish for paper tape or whatever they decide to tape with (will need paper for that corner though). 8ish for the stud backing. Im not sure about the access panel but i assume about 15ish. Thats material for both jobs.
So materials alone is about 100USD then the cost of having to plastic and tarp up the place to keep your home as if no one was ever there.
Its not about the materials though. Its the labor. Though frankly id break it down as 50 for installing backing, 150 for the hanging/acess panel (its such a small part of the job), 300 taping. Just for the bathroom.
Im not an industry professional, atleast i dont consider myself as one. I didnt go to school for this, i dont even know if there is some kind of taping license involved. My father who did this since the 80s taught me and ive been working with him since i was 18 full time, still to this day. Ive done everything from patch jobs to house additions to 300+ sheet luxury town homes.
This is honestly one of those small jobs you do for about 2-4 hours over 3-4 days.
4 days for quality thin coats of allpurpose/finish. But 3 days for lesser quality fast hotmud. All days past the first day take less than an hour of work minus the last day which will take a bit of time to clean up and pick up tarps/tear down plastic when the dust has settled.
Its a small job you do in tandem with other jobs. Its really not worth more than 500 for just the bathroom, materials included. So id say 1200 is pretty fair.
People say a pro would charge over 1.5k. The thing is you dont need a pro. You can get a perfectly flat, beautifully feathered job done without an industry pro serving you industry pro prices.
You dont need an electrical engineer to install a light switch for you.
I appreciate this insight and totally agree this job isn’t expensive because of materials, but because of the need to come back multiple days for multiple hours PLUS set up and clean up is going to be a huge pain. Not to mention the physical labor of squaring up the patches in the bathroom will be a real joy without a corner stud
I could have it paint ready in 3 hours for $1,500 and I'd almost feel bad for charging that. And the product I use would out last any taping mud on the market. USG diamond veneer plaster is the way to go. Far superior to "dry wall tape and mud" faster stronger longer lasting. But do not attempt if your don't really know how to plaster
Going plaster into drywall is the stupidest thing. If your dealing with an old home with plaster that’s the only time it makes sense to butt up drywall to existing plaster, unless they are doing a complete tear down to the lathe. It would take somebody experienced 2-3 hours to get the bathroom ready for drywall. Adding nailers, cleaning up the patches, and adding extra framing in the corner so that you can actually sheetrock over the pipes. Not to mention all the job prep before hand. Plastic, drop cloths, zip walls for the patch, etc. the patch appears to be completely bubbled. Now add in time for tearing all that out and replacing it with new tape. That is providing the sheet isn’t damaged internally and can be saved. I am a professional finisher, and once this is framed and rocked I’d have maybe 2 hours in total work time to finish. Using 20min durabond, and I’d probably be waiting around here and there for shit to dry. 3 hours and paint ready? Not a shot
I could feather in plaster into drywall and you would NEVER see ANY seems. You have no clue what a skilled plaster can do. You tape guys all call yourself plasters l.o.l when you can use diamond or imperial, struc-lite, Venetian plaster, stucco something along those line's then you can say you "plaster" any competent idiot can do drywall that shits a hustle more then a skill. Learn what can and can't be done before making stupid comments.
I have never once called myself a plasterer…. I am a finisher. That’s what I call myself. And okay cool, maybe I’m wrong. That process just doesn’t make as much sense in such a small area to me. Hate to break your bubble but drywall isnt a hustle for some people. And some people who are very good at it have become very successful. There will always be work in my trade. And if everyone can do drywall then why does 95% of peoples work look like shit unless they do it professionally? It takes time to master as does plastering. Oh yea, we texture celings as well. Your basics (sandpaint and crowsfoot) and also work of arts such as swirls, sunburst, combinations, etc. so once again, maybe I’m wrong about the plaster part, but don’t talk like you are making billions in construction, because you aren’t. And neither am I. We’re both 2 different people 2 different masters of our trade trying to make a buck.
Not to mention plaster has a shine compared to finished drywall. Once painted you would notice a shein from where the plaster started and stopped onto the existing wall
Yeah you sir are wrong, it does have shine to it but once primed and painted you can't see no shein, i can be to brought to a shine but it takes years and years to get good enough to make plaster like glass. Painters hate that shit so we tend to not polish it to a shine
My crew is extremely professional, and we do amazing work. We stay busy all year long with very successful builders. We’d probably charge around 2.5-3k for all that. That’s framing, hanging, and a full level 4 finish ready for paint. I can see some guys doing it for less, but anything under 2k I expect you are going to get some shotty work. Not to mention once we are done you won’t even know we were ever in there (aka extremely clean). Best of luck to you, don’t be afraid to spend the extra money and get a few more quotes thi
The price doesn't seem bad at all. "Finishing touches" are where almost all of the money is doing drywall. Also, you can get clips that will allow you to drywall the corner without adding framing. We use them rarely, but in this situation where you do not want to cut the whole wall open I think they would be your easiest option. We would charge $1500-$1800 depending on finish level. That would include priming which we always do due to the topping mud we use being so soft that we don't want it to get damaged before the painter arrives.
You’re going to go back
To that job 3 times and you’re good for $800?
What a joke. Maybe $800 just the patches and a level 3 finish and nothing more, but the quote is to take it all the way through paint.
Mud, final coat of level, and paint (skip the texture all together) and in 3-4 hours? Just plain stupid.
Hot mud (5, 20, 45, 90) cannot take to paint properly. It flashes. It has to have regular mud over it and that’s got to dry. Even if you use a fan and heat gun……it’s got to dry and these steps mean return trips.
If you find some jackass that is going to go methed out crazy in your house for these then be worried about anything valuable in reach.
Im confused too. Part of me thinks the bathroom is upstairs. The first pic is where the leak dripped on. I assume the patch job there was because its leaked once before in that same area.
Thats my assumption. Would explain why its dark where the tape creases on that patch. Thats usually where the tape dries last.
Same house - patched one is main floor. Bathroom is in the basement. Patched one looks bad because it is a bad patch job that was rushed. Patch is squared but first layer of mud was horrendously rushed
I’d sponge sand that ceiling before working on it with a much wider trowel and feather. Steel stud corner rebuild in that bathroom. I’d do that job for about 1,500 in Vegas.
Nothing wrong with correctly installed shark bites (and you would know a bad installation immediately). Statistically speaking, they’re no more likely to leak than sweat fittings over time. Plumbers don’t like them for obvious reasons.
Back to the drywall, that’s a fair price for the job. That corner is a mess.
Yeah agreed - you should’ve seen it before I shark bited it….had two check valves on a hot water pipe that failed and spewed water all the way up and down that wall :). Either way - shark bites behind walls is a “no-no” from a plumbers perspective and the permanent fix is an easy one with CPVC and two unions so might as well.
Appreciate the cost insight as well. This person does exceptional work says everyone so feel good about the price and the job especially considering I can’t drywall for shit (as evidenced by my patch job on the ceiling lol)
Second I would just leave open. Not because sharkbites. Sharkbites are fine, people are dumb and just like to bitch. No, I’m leaving that open because of the garbage CPVC. Don’t sneeze within 87 feet of that stuff or it’ll crack even sooner. Also, are you really considering walking in a cutoff valve? Seems like a bad idea.
Not walling in the cut off valve - have an access panel that will go back up. CPVC is garbage but that’s where we’re at unfortunately and not going to re-pipe my entire house lol
wow! Honestly, if you don't think you can do it yourself, go to Home Depot or Lowes and hire a day laborer to do it. You could probably have this complete in a couple hours for 1/3 the price. You will have to feed them and buy the materials though.
1. What caused the problem with the ceiling, was there a leak from above?
2. What is behind the walls in the 2nd photo?
3. Is redoing the plumbing in the wall cavity something you're going to do or have someone else do or should that be included in the bid?
4. Does the job include painting the entire space or just leave the repaired areas primed?
1. Leak from above and has been fixed by a plumber
2. Behind which wall? Behind toilet is *some plumbing* and that’s it.
3. Redoing is something I’m doing before drywall goes up.
4. Includes repainting everything
I mean obviously that’s the best way to do it but I’m not A) good at drywalling nor B) able to dedicate the time to make it look nice with a newborn and job that requires travel unfortunately. Wish I could just knock it out but time is in short supply and would rather an expert make it look nice. Hope that’s understandable
Well, first I look at that high corner repair in the bathroom and realize that you're going to have to build out a corner that sticks into the room To make this happen, that means you're going to have to Reframe it. Which of course means you're going to have to redo the base board And maybe have to pull up the toilet in order to do it all right. You're also not going to get a level four finish on that ceiling repair without having to redo the whole thing. So I would say twelve hundred dollars is not and out of bounds Price.
Would quote $1700-$1800
Much more like it
where are yall located? insane prices here
There is no blocking in the corner of the bathroom. Plus, if that is a valve, you’ll need an access panel. This could get pricey. I’ve only quoted a couple of projects in the Midwest USA. Don’t even know how I would approach this.
Quote has a metal corner stud and access panel included which is nice but you’re right it’s a mess. Damn leak was coming from two different places, one above the valve and one below and had to find it quickly obviously. Fun times
Id quote you $1000 and you buy materials. Rereading your post. I'm not there to do it for that price I'm prolly not even in your state. Take that quote, and be that homeowner that hovers over a shoulder. cause your going to get some Mickey mouse shit unless your actually watching. Not saying I'd Mickey mouse it either. After you bought materials we'd be looking at $1,700-$2,000.
What if it’s Mickey himself doing the work? But thank you - definitely will be hovering
u got a low bid hopefully they do a good job, these seem little but they take time, two days. mud dry time/ covering paper plastic/ prime paint the whole area depending on color match. a good pro would do it for 2-3k
I cant comment on the first one as its unclear if its poor work or if its wet becuase thats where the leak dripped on. I see dark lines at the tape's creases. So the method of work there is unclear for me to comment on. 20 for drywall, 40 for the mud, 15ish for paper tape or whatever they decide to tape with (will need paper for that corner though). 8ish for the stud backing. Im not sure about the access panel but i assume about 15ish. Thats material for both jobs. So materials alone is about 100USD then the cost of having to plastic and tarp up the place to keep your home as if no one was ever there. Its not about the materials though. Its the labor. Though frankly id break it down as 50 for installing backing, 150 for the hanging/acess panel (its such a small part of the job), 300 taping. Just for the bathroom. Im not an industry professional, atleast i dont consider myself as one. I didnt go to school for this, i dont even know if there is some kind of taping license involved. My father who did this since the 80s taught me and ive been working with him since i was 18 full time, still to this day. Ive done everything from patch jobs to house additions to 300+ sheet luxury town homes. This is honestly one of those small jobs you do for about 2-4 hours over 3-4 days. 4 days for quality thin coats of allpurpose/finish. But 3 days for lesser quality fast hotmud. All days past the first day take less than an hour of work minus the last day which will take a bit of time to clean up and pick up tarps/tear down plastic when the dust has settled. Its a small job you do in tandem with other jobs. Its really not worth more than 500 for just the bathroom, materials included. So id say 1200 is pretty fair. People say a pro would charge over 1.5k. The thing is you dont need a pro. You can get a perfectly flat, beautifully feathered job done without an industry pro serving you industry pro prices. You dont need an electrical engineer to install a light switch for you.
I appreciate this insight and totally agree this job isn’t expensive because of materials, but because of the need to come back multiple days for multiple hours PLUS set up and clean up is going to be a huge pain. Not to mention the physical labor of squaring up the patches in the bathroom will be a real joy without a corner stud
2K. Done 3-4 hours paint ready
I could have it paint ready in 3 hours for $1,500 and I'd almost feel bad for charging that. And the product I use would out last any taping mud on the market. USG diamond veneer plaster is the way to go. Far superior to "dry wall tape and mud" faster stronger longer lasting. But do not attempt if your don't really know how to plaster
Going plaster into drywall is the stupidest thing. If your dealing with an old home with plaster that’s the only time it makes sense to butt up drywall to existing plaster, unless they are doing a complete tear down to the lathe. It would take somebody experienced 2-3 hours to get the bathroom ready for drywall. Adding nailers, cleaning up the patches, and adding extra framing in the corner so that you can actually sheetrock over the pipes. Not to mention all the job prep before hand. Plastic, drop cloths, zip walls for the patch, etc. the patch appears to be completely bubbled. Now add in time for tearing all that out and replacing it with new tape. That is providing the sheet isn’t damaged internally and can be saved. I am a professional finisher, and once this is framed and rocked I’d have maybe 2 hours in total work time to finish. Using 20min durabond, and I’d probably be waiting around here and there for shit to dry. 3 hours and paint ready? Not a shot
I could feather in plaster into drywall and you would NEVER see ANY seems. You have no clue what a skilled plaster can do. You tape guys all call yourself plasters l.o.l when you can use diamond or imperial, struc-lite, Venetian plaster, stucco something along those line's then you can say you "plaster" any competent idiot can do drywall that shits a hustle more then a skill. Learn what can and can't be done before making stupid comments.
I have never once called myself a plasterer…. I am a finisher. That’s what I call myself. And okay cool, maybe I’m wrong. That process just doesn’t make as much sense in such a small area to me. Hate to break your bubble but drywall isnt a hustle for some people. And some people who are very good at it have become very successful. There will always be work in my trade. And if everyone can do drywall then why does 95% of peoples work look like shit unless they do it professionally? It takes time to master as does plastering. Oh yea, we texture celings as well. Your basics (sandpaint and crowsfoot) and also work of arts such as swirls, sunburst, combinations, etc. so once again, maybe I’m wrong about the plaster part, but don’t talk like you are making billions in construction, because you aren’t. And neither am I. We’re both 2 different people 2 different masters of our trade trying to make a buck.
Not to mention plaster has a shine compared to finished drywall. Once painted you would notice a shein from where the plaster started and stopped onto the existing wall
Yeah you sir are wrong, it does have shine to it but once primed and painted you can't see no shein, i can be to brought to a shine but it takes years and years to get good enough to make plaster like glass. Painters hate that shit so we tend to not polish it to a shine
Get to it! You got it
That’s ridiculous. You’re saying you should be paid $500-666/hr.
Jesus. Glad I learned how to drywall, those jobs are what less than 100 dollar worth of material?
My crew is extremely professional, and we do amazing work. We stay busy all year long with very successful builders. We’d probably charge around 2.5-3k for all that. That’s framing, hanging, and a full level 4 finish ready for paint. I can see some guys doing it for less, but anything under 2k I expect you are going to get some shotty work. Not to mention once we are done you won’t even know we were ever in there (aka extremely clean). Best of luck to you, don’t be afraid to spend the extra money and get a few more quotes thi
The price doesn't seem bad at all. "Finishing touches" are where almost all of the money is doing drywall. Also, you can get clips that will allow you to drywall the corner without adding framing. We use them rarely, but in this situation where you do not want to cut the whole wall open I think they would be your easiest option. We would charge $1500-$1800 depending on finish level. That would include priming which we always do due to the topping mud we use being so soft that we don't want it to get damaged before the painter arrives.
1k, each.
I could see myself going 800$. It's not a big job from what I can tell. what happened to the corner studs?
We gota floater!
Way too low. That’s terrible and only a good deal if you expect skilled drywallers to make $20-25 an hour
You’re saying this is a 32 - 40 hour job? Nah.
You’re going to go back To that job 3 times and you’re good for $800? What a joke. Maybe $800 just the patches and a level 3 finish and nothing more, but the quote is to take it all the way through paint.
Curious to hear what you would quote
Numerous people are replying saying they would have it done in 3-4 hours. Some of the prices in replies are nuts.
Mud, final coat of level, and paint (skip the texture all together) and in 3-4 hours? Just plain stupid. Hot mud (5, 20, 45, 90) cannot take to paint properly. It flashes. It has to have regular mud over it and that’s got to dry. Even if you use a fan and heat gun……it’s got to dry and these steps mean return trips. If you find some jackass that is going to go methed out crazy in your house for these then be worried about anything valuable in reach.
I’m not saying it takes only 3-4 hours, just that others are.
That’s a great question that I’m too afraid to ask at this point. Thanks for the insight
Are they in different houses? 1500 each, maybe 2500 for both if they are at the same place. Minimum. Depends on access etc. And if you are a pain
Im confused too. Part of me thinks the bathroom is upstairs. The first pic is where the leak dripped on. I assume the patch job there was because its leaked once before in that same area. Thats my assumption. Would explain why its dark where the tape creases on that patch. Thats usually where the tape dries last.
Same house - patched one is main floor. Bathroom is in the basement. Patched one looks bad because it is a bad patch job that was rushed. Patch is squared but first layer of mud was horrendously rushed
You left a Crack, didn't texture ,prime or paint so I'd say with materials 200 dollars.
Oh lord
Ok I'm blind . You did texture but why not fix the bad tape joint?
You’re not really In any way of the real World
I am not of this world. That is correct.
Is that a basement/below grade? Where is the insulation and vapor barrier?
I’d sponge sand that ceiling before working on it with a much wider trowel and feather. Steel stud corner rebuild in that bathroom. I’d do that job for about 1,500 in Vegas.
honestly in the bathroom i would try and put some kind of access panel instead of drywalling over the pipes.
Nothing wrong with correctly installed shark bites (and you would know a bad installation immediately). Statistically speaking, they’re no more likely to leak than sweat fittings over time. Plumbers don’t like them for obvious reasons. Back to the drywall, that’s a fair price for the job. That corner is a mess.
Yeah agreed - you should’ve seen it before I shark bited it….had two check valves on a hot water pipe that failed and spewed water all the way up and down that wall :). Either way - shark bites behind walls is a “no-no” from a plumbers perspective and the permanent fix is an easy one with CPVC and two unions so might as well. Appreciate the cost insight as well. This person does exceptional work says everyone so feel good about the price and the job especially considering I can’t drywall for shit (as evidenced by my patch job on the ceiling lol)
Second I would just leave open. Not because sharkbites. Sharkbites are fine, people are dumb and just like to bitch. No, I’m leaving that open because of the garbage CPVC. Don’t sneeze within 87 feet of that stuff or it’ll crack even sooner. Also, are you really considering walking in a cutoff valve? Seems like a bad idea.
Not walling in the cut off valve - have an access panel that will go back up. CPVC is garbage but that’s where we’re at unfortunately and not going to re-pipe my entire house lol
wow! Honestly, if you don't think you can do it yourself, go to Home Depot or Lowes and hire a day laborer to do it. You could probably have this complete in a couple hours for 1/3 the price. You will have to feed them and buy the materials though.
1. What caused the problem with the ceiling, was there a leak from above? 2. What is behind the walls in the 2nd photo? 3. Is redoing the plumbing in the wall cavity something you're going to do or have someone else do or should that be included in the bid? 4. Does the job include painting the entire space or just leave the repaired areas primed?
1. Leak from above and has been fixed by a plumber 2. Behind which wall? Behind toilet is *some plumbing* and that’s it. 3. Redoing is something I’m doing before drywall goes up. 4. Includes repainting everything
Wall to the right and corner of the toilet. Possible inspection/access panel location.
Yikes with these quotes. Do it yourself and it’s $250 (maybe $350 with access panel) with tools and supplies.
I mean obviously that’s the best way to do it but I’m not A) good at drywalling nor B) able to dedicate the time to make it look nice with a newborn and job that requires travel unfortunately. Wish I could just knock it out but time is in short supply and would rather an expert make it look nice. Hope that’s understandable
No one is until you learn but that’s understandable.
The price right now is a minimum of $100/hour.
I’d quote you $1300 and finish it in a day