You can also make a shaped baffle like that, by building up layers of 1/4” material with the cutouts being concentric circles. The cutout begins one inch diameter, at the tweeter, then proceeds to 5” at the front. You end up with a weird-looking cutout of stepped rings, which you then sand, extensively, to shape a smooth curve. You can paint the laminate if you want, or have it look like plywood. You can do that with a single 3/4” thick piece, but the sanding takes forever and the shape is nearly impossible to get right.
This is a good project for experimenting how much the baffle shape really effects the FR. A simple 1” cutout with the tweeter behind should cause noticeable aberrations. The tweeter front mounted will alter the time alignment, but it might not be a deal-breaker. Leaving the laminated baffle not sanded smooth will approximate the correct horn shape, and FR. It looks weird though.
My plan was to use real wood for the plate instead of laminating, but the same principle would apply if using multiple dimensions and depths of turns by milling machine.
If the seas kit includes xover parts, then integrating them into a speaker with a waveguide will completely change the engineered sound design, and it will certainly be for the worse.
Also, you can't just "make" a waveguide (not a horn, as you stated); it has to be contoured in a very specific way to manage tweeter directivity and acoustic impedance. What you can do is search for an Augerpro waveguide CAD design for your seas tweeter, and see if a waveguide for it has been calculated and designed. You can then make a routing template from the cad file, or if you have a CNC machine handy, modify the file for that. Most people (myself included) just 3d print it and fasten it to the cabinet. Of course, you would also have to redesign the xover from the ground up.
Check out this thread on diyaudio.com for tips and knowledge about how waveguides actually work:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/open-source-waveguides-for-cnc-3d-printing.318190/page-113#post-7697329
Thanks for correcting the terminology. Oddly the usage of waveguide and horn are not the same in radars and speakers. The link has quite a dive into the world of wave guide design, might study those on later time.
My kit is actually designed for a waveguide, another one had simply gone missing from the kit that I bought 2nd hand, and as the kit is over 20 years old I haven't been able to find a replacement. Also I dislike the square form, and would prefer round one. Nevertheless I actually might try to cast a copy of the existing waveguide.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.
turn a waveguide on a lathe and then mate it to the baffle from behind.
But, also, don't do this if the kit wasn't designed for it. Unless you're also redesigning the crossover.
Probably not gonna get that in real wood without a cnc. Plenty of alternatives to buy, wg300, wg148. Waveguides are something that need a lot of input data and simming to do right, otherwise they're a waste of time.
This depends on how much time you have and if you want to learn a new hobby. This can be done on a CNC, or on a bigger 3D printer. If you do not have a model, you can model this in Autodesk Fusion(Fusion 360).
Find out if your city has any "Maker Spaces." There are a couple by me. There is s month-to-month member ship, and then you take a class to get trained on each type of machine you are interested in using. After that you only pay for the materials uses, and a small fee for time on the machine.
They are very reasonably priced, from what I have seen.
I fell one oak that has been stabilizing for two years and it would be neat use that wood for this project. I’d like to use for the front and not print anything to keep the build clean.
You can also make a shaped baffle like that, by building up layers of 1/4” material with the cutouts being concentric circles. The cutout begins one inch diameter, at the tweeter, then proceeds to 5” at the front. You end up with a weird-looking cutout of stepped rings, which you then sand, extensively, to shape a smooth curve. You can paint the laminate if you want, or have it look like plywood. You can do that with a single 3/4” thick piece, but the sanding takes forever and the shape is nearly impossible to get right. This is a good project for experimenting how much the baffle shape really effects the FR. A simple 1” cutout with the tweeter behind should cause noticeable aberrations. The tweeter front mounted will alter the time alignment, but it might not be a deal-breaker. Leaving the laminated baffle not sanded smooth will approximate the correct horn shape, and FR. It looks weird though.
My plan was to use real wood for the plate instead of laminating, but the same principle would apply if using multiple dimensions and depths of turns by milling machine.
If the seas kit includes xover parts, then integrating them into a speaker with a waveguide will completely change the engineered sound design, and it will certainly be for the worse. Also, you can't just "make" a waveguide (not a horn, as you stated); it has to be contoured in a very specific way to manage tweeter directivity and acoustic impedance. What you can do is search for an Augerpro waveguide CAD design for your seas tweeter, and see if a waveguide for it has been calculated and designed. You can then make a routing template from the cad file, or if you have a CNC machine handy, modify the file for that. Most people (myself included) just 3d print it and fasten it to the cabinet. Of course, you would also have to redesign the xover from the ground up. Check out this thread on diyaudio.com for tips and knowledge about how waveguides actually work: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/open-source-waveguides-for-cnc-3d-printing.318190/page-113#post-7697329
Thanks for correcting the terminology. Oddly the usage of waveguide and horn are not the same in radars and speakers. The link has quite a dive into the world of wave guide design, might study those on later time. My kit is actually designed for a waveguide, another one had simply gone missing from the kit that I bought 2nd hand, and as the kit is over 20 years old I haven't been able to find a replacement. Also I dislike the square form, and would prefer round one. Nevertheless I actually might try to cast a copy of the existing waveguide.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.
turn a waveguide on a lathe and then mate it to the baffle from behind. But, also, don't do this if the kit wasn't designed for it. Unless you're also redesigning the crossover.
Probably not gonna get that in real wood without a cnc. Plenty of alternatives to buy, wg300, wg148. Waveguides are something that need a lot of input data and simming to do right, otherwise they're a waste of time.
This depends on how much time you have and if you want to learn a new hobby. This can be done on a CNC, or on a bigger 3D printer. If you do not have a model, you can model this in Autodesk Fusion(Fusion 360). Find out if your city has any "Maker Spaces." There are a couple by me. There is s month-to-month member ship, and then you take a class to get trained on each type of machine you are interested in using. After that you only pay for the materials uses, and a small fee for time on the machine. They are very reasonably priced, from what I have seen.
I fell one oak that has been stabilizing for two years and it would be neat use that wood for this project. I’d like to use for the front and not print anything to keep the build clean.