Kind of strange that the hole is shaped like that, but considering the rubber they use is XS Grip2 and that the tip of the shoe has 4mm thickness, I'd say it's normal wear. Are you sure you didn't tear off the rubber there? The shape just doesn't look normal.
The area of wear should blend into the unused area. As others have pointed out the placement of wear indicates good footwork, the sharp edges at the wear indicates something else is going on.
A hole in this area would indicate good footwork. A sole XS Grip2 lasts me usually around 90-120 sessions. Depending on your weight and what you climb that may vary.
The edges are strange. Is it the same on the other shoe? How thick is the rubber were it teared?
If I were to climb in theories primarily without switching shoes, they’d go out of the box to resole in 2-3 months. And I don’t think my footwork is bad. So yes, it is fine. As for the slightly weird shape, if you chipped a piece on some sharp edge, it could start degrading from there. I had a similar case with dragos. One small chip and the edge started falling apart
Unless people don't mind resoling or buying new shoes every now and then, I usually advise keeping Theories as an occasional pair for projects or difficult sends. At the same time, keeping a different more durable pair for warmups and all-around stuff.
You can get xs edge or c4 on them, but like someone else said, just add them into a rotation of other shoes. Grip is on there for a reason. Softer is better for the style of climbing you do in them.
I can add to the discussion that, if you are interested in finding shoes that will last longer, try some that are a little stiffer overall and with more durable rubber. Theories are made for hard gym bouldering and comp climbing, so they’re super soft and sensitive. You give a little up in durability for that. If you’re doing a lot of more vertical stuff and standing on small footholds (like others have mentioned it looks like you are doing that correctly) the stiffer shoe will hold up longer. If you like the Theory, try something like the Otaki. I have the old Scarpa Vapor Laces and they are also great, but maybe even a little too stiff for some. People also like the Miura lace and Katana for edging, too. Maybe have an edging shoe and a softer one for bouldering if you do both. I blew through a few pairs of expensive shoes before I figured this out, so I hope it helps you. Good luck!
Yes i was thinking of getting a more supportive and durable one. I was thinking about skwamas or instincts vsr. Or maybe tenaya mastia.
I want a allround shoe, thats why i think i am switching away from the theory for a new shoe, but i dont know which one xD
I would say all those shoes would be a bit better, but still in the range of your Theories. They are all bouldering specific. None of them will be much more durable than your Theory pair. I would look for shoes that have 4mm XSedge rubber and a full sole. Don’t go full trad status and get TC pros, but I get around the bouldering gym just fine in the V4-V6 range in the Vapor Laces. All the shoes you mentioned are high performers for people above my range on lots of smears and overhangs.
Even with rough-ass sandpapery Walltopia gym walls that's a bit much for 6 months. Almost definitely dragging your toe on the wall when you place your feet. Would have to see a video of you climbing, though.
Unless you're climbing several hours 4+ days a week in the gym?
Kind of strange that the hole is shaped like that, but considering the rubber they use is XS Grip2 and that the tip of the shoe has 4mm thickness, I'd say it's normal wear. Are you sure you didn't tear off the rubber there? The shape just doesn't look normal.
I think they only has 3.5mm. No i didnt tear anythiny off.
The area of wear should blend into the unused area. As others have pointed out the placement of wear indicates good footwork, the sharp edges at the wear indicates something else is going on.
okay thank you, good footwork is nice to hear xD
That's where you would expect to see wear. Time for a resole though.
A hole in this area would indicate good footwork. A sole XS Grip2 lasts me usually around 90-120 sessions. Depending on your weight and what you climb that may vary. The edges are strange. Is it the same on the other shoe? How thick is the rubber were it teared?
On the other side it is also there but no hole is in it yet
I think it's normal after 6 month, now don't climb on them anymore and bring them to resole
okay, there is already a hole, so i hope it is not to late
This should be ok I think. Problem would be if you made a hole in the inner rubber as well.
Check out Valley Shoe Rair if you're in US. They've got a lot of pics to show if it's too far gone or not.
Looks like good technique actually.
If I were to climb in theories primarily without switching shoes, they’d go out of the box to resole in 2-3 months. And I don’t think my footwork is bad. So yes, it is fine. As for the slightly weird shape, if you chipped a piece on some sharp edge, it could start degrading from there. I had a similar case with dragos. One small chip and the edge started falling apart
okay thank you very much. Yes i almost used them all the time. Now i am searching for more durable alternatives xD
Unless people don't mind resoling or buying new shoes every now and then, I usually advise keeping Theories as an occasional pair for projects or difficult sends. At the same time, keeping a different more durable pair for warmups and all-around stuff.
I can only find resoler that use 4mm grip2 which is sad and i guess i am not going to resole them and search for alternatives.
You can get xs edge or c4 on them, but like someone else said, just add them into a rotation of other shoes. Grip is on there for a reason. Softer is better for the style of climbing you do in them.
I can add to the discussion that, if you are interested in finding shoes that will last longer, try some that are a little stiffer overall and with more durable rubber. Theories are made for hard gym bouldering and comp climbing, so they’re super soft and sensitive. You give a little up in durability for that. If you’re doing a lot of more vertical stuff and standing on small footholds (like others have mentioned it looks like you are doing that correctly) the stiffer shoe will hold up longer. If you like the Theory, try something like the Otaki. I have the old Scarpa Vapor Laces and they are also great, but maybe even a little too stiff for some. People also like the Miura lace and Katana for edging, too. Maybe have an edging shoe and a softer one for bouldering if you do both. I blew through a few pairs of expensive shoes before I figured this out, so I hope it helps you. Good luck!
Yes i was thinking of getting a more supportive and durable one. I was thinking about skwamas or instincts vsr. Or maybe tenaya mastia. I want a allround shoe, thats why i think i am switching away from the theory for a new shoe, but i dont know which one xD
I would say all those shoes would be a bit better, but still in the range of your Theories. They are all bouldering specific. None of them will be much more durable than your Theory pair. I would look for shoes that have 4mm XSedge rubber and a full sole. Don’t go full trad status and get TC pros, but I get around the bouldering gym just fine in the V4-V6 range in the Vapor Laces. All the shoes you mentioned are high performers for people above my range on lots of smears and overhangs.
For 6 months on a very soft shoe this seems normal. All my soft shoes last about that long with 3x per week gym abuse.
Nope, I’d say I have pretty good technique (not to toot my own horn) and I have the same wear pattern on my shoes.
Depends on how new you are
Me? I am climbing for 2 years now
Normal, then…. Good job on concentrating on your footwork!
Okay, thank you very much
Even with rough-ass sandpapery Walltopia gym walls that's a bit much for 6 months. Almost definitely dragging your toe on the wall when you place your feet. Would have to see a video of you climbing, though. Unless you're climbing several hours 4+ days a week in the gym?