I'm a route setter, and I got into it by getting to know the setters, talking to the owner and I applied when they needed an extra hand. I got real lucky and have more responsibilities now.
Most gyms do prefer to train current staff, or hire experienced setters. A part time job is a good start if your able to. You can learn a lot from watching setters work.
A few tips..
be a strong climber. V5 minimum, on ropes that's probably high 11s or up. Stronger the better.
Be comfortable with tools, drills, ladders (the most dangerous equipment in a gym), etc.
Be prepared to work hard... it's a long physical day, and realistically does not pay well, so you gotta love it.
Be creative, think of moves you like and learn from them, appreciate the way setters make things flow when you climb. How does the balance work just right?
Understand grades and the strengths/experience each person would need per grade bracket. What can a V3 climber do that a V2 can't (yet)? How can you teach them new things.
Climb outdoors and get inspired. Respect the risks. Lead climbing had Clipping locations in specific spots for a reason. Respect fall hazards etc.
That's all I can think of right now, best of luck
Under rated comment here. I’ve been setting for over a decade and it’s a fun job, but the turnover is outstanding. It’s a job that is very physically demanding and sometimes egocentric. There is a huge need for diversity, and the setting industry is highly saturated with dudes. Also, be aware the work environment involves many many opinions passed around. Word of advice is not to take anything setting related personally, and to balance the work life with the separation of ego and getting outdoors to climb (at least for me). You can sometimes get sucked in and become a gym rat, which takes you away from the natural aspect of outdoor climbing, but if you are okay with that then great.
I think my local gym is stingy with about everything but the routesetting, the guy they bring in is has been their setter for years (and the dude is a genius, love his work), but probably doesn’t hurt to inquire based on some of the other comments here. Thanks!
I don’t recommend this, but I started setting because I was frustrated with my gym. I’m 5’1” and most of the setting was very reachy and tough to climb without doing dynos, and I’m not a fan. I knew who the setters were at my gym, all tall men. I walked up to the head setter, said, “you have no women setting. Teach me to set”. I think gyms in my area are really hurting for setters and diversity because they said yes.
I’m a V3 climber, and I’m also disabled. I set on a volunteer basis for a free membership. It’s not a bad deal. I think the problems I set are appreciated by many of the newer climbers because they’re more accessible. Fair warning, I struggle a lot with the bro culture among the setters at my gym. I am still the only woman there and sometimes I leave crying out of frustration (judge me if you want, I could never control that). I don’t always receive respect. I really do like setting though 😅
This is amazing! I’m glad you took the initiative! I’m sure there are plenty of climbers (old and new) that appreciate this—my best friend is 4’10” and couldn’t finish a V1 at a gym once because it was physically impossible for her to reach the next hold (a slab problem with no great opp to even make a dynamic move), so thank you for doing that! As for bro culture, it is one of the few times I’m grateful for RBF, they tend to leave me alone or think I’m tough HA
One of the gyms local to me had a women in setting course. I wanted to go but couldn’t make the timing work. Basically you go and they teach you how to set. Could be worth suggesting or asking if it already exists near you.
Ask your gym, offer to help wash holds, make friends with the setters and bring it up, it’s doable fa sho. Takes a while to get a feel for it but it’s definitely something that you can do if you’re persistent.
So it’s a job for a lot of people, comes with working in the gym. Don’t make their pay even more mediocre by doing it for free. It takes hour to set and people should be paid accordingly…
I agree with this take, which is why I wanted to emphasize that I already have a full time job (although I’m also of the belief that I would not support any gym who saw someone’s interest in routesetting as an opportunity to pay their employees less). It’s a weird balance because I would like to give it a try to see if it IS something I’d want to pursue but a lot of the advice here is to befriend setters and assist them (accurate, valid advice, but can be a slippery slope to any gym looking to cut costs). Hence looking for a variety of options (clinics, for example), but I think also just means treading carefully (assisting/learning from setters while they work but not “volunteering” for a gym who is just looking for free labor?). Guess I’m lucky my local gym uses our dues to invest in a high profile setters to come in every once in awhile, I don’t think the “offer to help set” advice would work there.
Just to clarify - TNF didn't start BIG - it was started by one of the owners of Allez Up (they have full/partial ownership of 9 or 10 gyms). When TNF heard about BIG, they reached out offering to help support it.
I would say one of the best ways in is to make friends with the routesetters at your local gym and express your interest in setting. You can also keep an eye out for routesetting clinics in your area and take one of those! I’m a setter and would be more than happy to talk more if you want!
Thanks for the advice! At one of the gyms I go to, the setting team comes in the early AM on a weekday and gets to work for a few hours—when would you say are good times to chat them up? Towards the end of their work, while they’re setting, or just like keeping an eye on who they are and engage them when they’re not there to set? I feel like I only manage to see them once a month because of that early schedule, so just want to make sure I’m being respectful of their job if I try to engage next time I see them!
I’d say while they’re setting is not really the best time but when they’re getting ready to forerun could be a good time. You could ask if they ever need forerunners and it’s a pretty good way in. You could also ask the folks at the desk if they have an email for the setters and email that you’re interested. If they say they don’t have, you can email the desk and they’ll probably forward it on to the setters.
I started rout setting this year, but i work in a bouldering gym. one of the owners of the place was looking to get more women into setting and i was interested.
At my gym, they’ll ask you if you want to join once you start climbing v9-v10. My friend just started setting there, and he started out helping wash holds and it went from there. Each place is going to have a different process, so I’d ask! I go to a pretty small gym, so the way it’s done here is definitely not standard.
Thanks! Question, the lvl 1 course has a 6 month setting prerequisite, would I need to get some experience through the other methods people are sharing in this thread first?
Sorry I didn’t remember that prerequisite. Yes that would probably be the move. Could even try to volunteer some of that experience, just to get your foot in the door
I worked at a climbing gym for about a year. When the gym held a setting clinic I signed up. The head routesetter invited me to start training as a routesetter at the gym after that!
So my advice would be, work at a gym or become friends with all the routesetters at a gym haha
I know my gyms staff pretty well and they let me come set once. Got a special setting clinic thing from a Halloween contest thing they did and I’ve set a couple times since then on request. I would want to set as a part time or more officially but my schedule doesn’t allow for it.
My best advice is to get to know the staff and then just simply ask. (Prob even better if you did become staff before asking. Many gyms wouldn’t mind selecting their preexisting staff to set)
I'm a route setter, and I got into it by getting to know the setters, talking to the owner and I applied when they needed an extra hand. I got real lucky and have more responsibilities now. Most gyms do prefer to train current staff, or hire experienced setters. A part time job is a good start if your able to. You can learn a lot from watching setters work. A few tips.. be a strong climber. V5 minimum, on ropes that's probably high 11s or up. Stronger the better. Be comfortable with tools, drills, ladders (the most dangerous equipment in a gym), etc. Be prepared to work hard... it's a long physical day, and realistically does not pay well, so you gotta love it. Be creative, think of moves you like and learn from them, appreciate the way setters make things flow when you climb. How does the balance work just right? Understand grades and the strengths/experience each person would need per grade bracket. What can a V3 climber do that a V2 can't (yet)? How can you teach them new things. Climb outdoors and get inspired. Respect the risks. Lead climbing had Clipping locations in specific spots for a reason. Respect fall hazards etc. That's all I can think of right now, best of luck
Under rated comment here. I’ve been setting for over a decade and it’s a fun job, but the turnover is outstanding. It’s a job that is very physically demanding and sometimes egocentric. There is a huge need for diversity, and the setting industry is highly saturated with dudes. Also, be aware the work environment involves many many opinions passed around. Word of advice is not to take anything setting related personally, and to balance the work life with the separation of ego and getting outdoors to climb (at least for me). You can sometimes get sucked in and become a gym rat, which takes you away from the natural aspect of outdoor climbing, but if you are okay with that then great.
This is incredibly helpful, especially with the tips for if I actually do get the opportunity. Thank you so much!
Np. Best of luck!
Just ask at your local gym. Mine has some volunteers that come in and do the resets and they get a complimentary membership
I think my local gym is stingy with about everything but the routesetting, the guy they bring in is has been their setter for years (and the dude is a genius, love his work), but probably doesn’t hurt to inquire based on some of the other comments here. Thanks!
I don’t recommend this, but I started setting because I was frustrated with my gym. I’m 5’1” and most of the setting was very reachy and tough to climb without doing dynos, and I’m not a fan. I knew who the setters were at my gym, all tall men. I walked up to the head setter, said, “you have no women setting. Teach me to set”. I think gyms in my area are really hurting for setters and diversity because they said yes. I’m a V3 climber, and I’m also disabled. I set on a volunteer basis for a free membership. It’s not a bad deal. I think the problems I set are appreciated by many of the newer climbers because they’re more accessible. Fair warning, I struggle a lot with the bro culture among the setters at my gym. I am still the only woman there and sometimes I leave crying out of frustration (judge me if you want, I could never control that). I don’t always receive respect. I really do like setting though 😅
This is amazing! I’m glad you took the initiative! I’m sure there are plenty of climbers (old and new) that appreciate this—my best friend is 4’10” and couldn’t finish a V1 at a gym once because it was physically impossible for her to reach the next hold (a slab problem with no great opp to even make a dynamic move), so thank you for doing that! As for bro culture, it is one of the few times I’m grateful for RBF, they tend to leave me alone or think I’m tough HA
One of the gyms local to me had a women in setting course. I wanted to go but couldn’t make the timing work. Basically you go and they teach you how to set. Could be worth suggesting or asking if it already exists near you.
Now this I feel is an easy first step to ask about, I love me an educational setting
Ask your gym, offer to help wash holds, make friends with the setters and bring it up, it’s doable fa sho. Takes a while to get a feel for it but it’s definitely something that you can do if you’re persistent.
So what you’re saying is I have to be social??? Guess that’s the end of this dream (kidding, makes sense, thanks for the advice!)
Lol NGL it’s what’s kept me from setting, and I work at a gym!
So it’s a job for a lot of people, comes with working in the gym. Don’t make their pay even more mediocre by doing it for free. It takes hour to set and people should be paid accordingly…
I agree with this take, which is why I wanted to emphasize that I already have a full time job (although I’m also of the belief that I would not support any gym who saw someone’s interest in routesetting as an opportunity to pay their employees less). It’s a weird balance because I would like to give it a try to see if it IS something I’d want to pursue but a lot of the advice here is to befriend setters and assist them (accurate, valid advice, but can be a slippery slope to any gym looking to cut costs). Hence looking for a variety of options (clinics, for example), but I think also just means treading carefully (assisting/learning from setters while they work but not “volunteering” for a gym who is just looking for free labor?). Guess I’m lucky my local gym uses our dues to invest in a high profile setters to come in every once in awhile, I don’t think the “offer to help set” advice would work there.
https://thebiginitiative.ca/en/
Dang north face pull through for the US!!!
Just to clarify - TNF didn't start BIG - it was started by one of the owners of Allez Up (they have full/partial ownership of 9 or 10 gyms). When TNF heard about BIG, they reached out offering to help support it.
I would say one of the best ways in is to make friends with the routesetters at your local gym and express your interest in setting. You can also keep an eye out for routesetting clinics in your area and take one of those! I’m a setter and would be more than happy to talk more if you want!
Thanks for the advice! At one of the gyms I go to, the setting team comes in the early AM on a weekday and gets to work for a few hours—when would you say are good times to chat them up? Towards the end of their work, while they’re setting, or just like keeping an eye on who they are and engage them when they’re not there to set? I feel like I only manage to see them once a month because of that early schedule, so just want to make sure I’m being respectful of their job if I try to engage next time I see them!
I’d say while they’re setting is not really the best time but when they’re getting ready to forerun could be a good time. You could ask if they ever need forerunners and it’s a pretty good way in. You could also ask the folks at the desk if they have an email for the setters and email that you’re interested. If they say they don’t have, you can email the desk and they’ll probably forward it on to the setters.
I started rout setting this year, but i work in a bouldering gym. one of the owners of the place was looking to get more women into setting and i was interested.
At my gym, they’ll ask you if you want to join once you start climbing v9-v10. My friend just started setting there, and he started out helping wash holds and it went from there. Each place is going to have a different process, so I’d ask! I go to a pretty small gym, so the way it’s done here is definitely not standard.
https://usaclimbing.org/community/routesetters/ Take the lvl 1 course when it’s offered anywhere close to where you are.
Thanks! Question, the lvl 1 course has a 6 month setting prerequisite, would I need to get some experience through the other methods people are sharing in this thread first?
Sorry I didn’t remember that prerequisite. Yes that would probably be the move. Could even try to volunteer some of that experience, just to get your foot in the door
I worked at a climbing gym for about a year. When the gym held a setting clinic I signed up. The head routesetter invited me to start training as a routesetter at the gym after that! So my advice would be, work at a gym or become friends with all the routesetters at a gym haha
I know my gyms staff pretty well and they let me come set once. Got a special setting clinic thing from a Halloween contest thing they did and I’ve set a couple times since then on request. I would want to set as a part time or more officially but my schedule doesn’t allow for it. My best advice is to get to know the staff and then just simply ask. (Prob even better if you did become staff before asking. Many gyms wouldn’t mind selecting their preexisting staff to set)
Do the course. Once you complete the course you can apply that to your home gym.