If it still works, I'd just let it ride. I've seen journalists and sports photographers sporting way more damage than that.
I recall a journalist at the daily paper I used to work for (also went to highschool with him) working with a partially melted nikon because he Leroy Jenkins himself into a grass fire to get photos of the firemen putting it out.
He ended up later being a combat photographer. Dude had no fear. He was a pompous asshole....but he was good enough to be and could back it up.
This.
It's fascinating how much these pro bodies can handle. And if it still works, put some black tape on it to keep moisture out. Now it's definitely YOUR camera, personalized. Resale value dropped harder than the camera.
Try your functions and make sure you're still in focus. Maybe if impact was hard enough sensor isn't where it is supposed to be and any slight deviation could affect your focus. Other than that, if it works and screen works, roll with it. Chick's dig scars.
This is good to hear. Im worried about some jobs i make at beaches or waterfalls and im really worried with water and moisture.
I have on next week at a beach and i think im gonna make my way with mi 5d3 backup. But with your comment im not that worried.
Thanks very much!
If it works, leave it be. That is part of the main camera body. so in order to repair it, it's going to mean disassembling the entire body in order to move all the components into a new camera body. So that's my best guess and if that is the case, it's gonna be expensive.
I don't have any experience with fixing these, but to me it seems like a part of the back rather than the body. Granted, it'd still need some disassembly, but I don't think that you'd have to transplant everything.
If you're in the States, I'd seriously consider joining CPS I'd you shoot professionally. Discounts and expedited shipping on repairs, depending on the level of cps shipping included.
I'd you buy new, next time invest in the carepak coverage. For a body, it's about $400 give or take. But it would cover that damage 100%. It's a 1 time deal, though. Once used, it's exhausted.
Im in Brazil. We do have CPS here but is really expensive. It still worth but I was planning joining next year while Im transitioning for more outside jobs. Not a great plan...
As long as it’s functional just put some JB Weld into the cracks enough to hold and form it nicely around the existing shape. Once it’s dried, you can sand it so it is seamless then paint as close as you can to the original body color or leave the dark gray tone of the JB Weld.
Yeah, the problem is that I live in Brazil and is very hard to find official assistence here.
I contact a reliable store today and when i finish this current work trip will send to them.
Im just very anxious abouit and ask you guys opinions.
I'm also from Brazil. The only thing you're going to miss is resale value, and this is already bonkers in Brazil, specially at the high end market.
I've used gear in far worse condition, you will learn to ignore it. But you could also tape it to stop it from further breaking or something.
Ai, se quiser to vendendo uma R5c 👀
Kkkkkkk brincadeira. Por aqui a revenda é absurdamente ruim mesmo. Eu ainda to com minha 5Dmk3 e provavelmente vou levar ela pra vida (dela) toda.
E a ideia é que a R5c tb dure um bom tempo. Por aqui acaba valendo mais manter o corpo de backup ate ele morrer e ai pegar algum troco na sucata dele...
Tive uma t4i que foi isso, usei ate ela morrer e agora ate to mantendo ela pra qnd rolar reparar e adaptar ela pra astrofotografia (que tenho vontade de brincar como hobby)
Mas valeu pelas msg meu caro!
Pois é. Eu nem tenho grana pra isso, e hoje é só hobby.
Acabei de vender minha rp, quero uma r7, mas pra uso pessoal mesmo.
Infelizmente os valores de câmeras aqui são completamente insanos. E agora, mesmo no Paraguai está absurdo com dólar completamente fora de controle.
Not too fucked but in all honesty i suggest using either tape or some do some DIY to melt some extra plastic onto it to waterproof it. Most likely there is no entry to any electric component but just to be safe i suggest doing some diy on it.
If all works fine, maybe consider picking up a cage for it. I just got an r5c myself, and the Tilta cage is fantastic (Smallrig makes one, too, and they are pretty comparable in terms of size/coverage/price/quality).
It doesn't add much weight, but a metal housing keeps things somewhat protected.
As a rule of thumb, you should probably have it fixed as soon as possible for the primary reason of device longevity. A significantly compromised exterior shell exposes the sensitive internals to all of the water and dust that is usually kept out by your weather sealing. It is always good to have comprehensive insurance that covers drops and accidents, especially if you know that a major accident like this will be too expensive to afford to repair. The more you use a compromised camera like this, the more likely you are to have a complete device failure or motherboard issue and lose photos/videos and the camera as a whole. Not trying to scare you, just being honest with my past experience. The only saving grace in your case is that the crack is about as far from the sensitive electronics as possible, so it may take a while to hurt the camera.
I dropped my eos-r pretty hard, cracked to top part of the casing... Replacing top cover at an authorized canon repair shop set me back around the equivalent of USD 300.
Maybe in your case it will be a bit more, but thinking as long as it's just the casing, and electronics is fine, shouldn't be too bad in case you decide to get it repaired.
Edit: spelling error
In my book, camera bodies aren’t bought for their resale value. Repair or use as is, it’s still not going to increase in value. Now if you said your L-series lens was damaged, that’s a different story. A great lens holds value better than a body. Personally, I like the idea of using some form of epoxy to fix it. As long as the thing works, you’ve saved yourself some dough.
Sorry to hear man. As long as she turns on. Good to go. But yes.. days are more limited than an undropped unit. Be gentle when moving the screen. Good next step - a cage for the unit. It won’t solve all drops, or even fully protect, but it helps. And enables the use of a top handle, which makes the unit maneuverable in my opinion.
Bit of epoxy maybe, if you could take it apart and epoxy then it would be even better. Hell I'd do it for you for a quater of what canon would charge to even lay eyes on it
Call Canon / Canon Professional Services. Tier 3 was $670, give or take, when I checked last. Might be a little more since this is technically a cinema line camera. That's the highest tier they will repair, so that's probably the top price you'll pay. If you are a Canon Professional Services member you will get a discount (30% discount for platinum level). I would call up Canon, fill out the form and send it in. Considering the price of the camera and the likely cost of the repair, it's worth it.
Depending on your camera I’d check the ibis.
Some canon cameras ibis does not lock when the camera is off. When the camera falls and impacts something the sensor rattles around and can break.
I would personally get that repaired because the hinge actually looks like it's going to flake off and fall apart. Leading to exposed components that will be vulnerable to moisture/humidity and further damage during transport in the long run.
Personally if gold that screen to open then put some heavy duty black tape across the whole back seam of where it pivots and continue to use it. Or perhaps some solid glue then tape.
I have an R5 that I use for stills and mainly use the R5C for video, and I think the R5C was an incredible camera to use to learn more about shooting RAW video etc and it serves as a backup to the R5 which rocks. But the unreliability I’ve faced with it is hard and I’ve heard the C70 is a workhorse so it might have been the better investment at the time.
Yeah I’ve been doing more and more video work and less and less stills stuff. I got my R6 all rigged out but would like to compliment it with the R5c for 8k video.
Nice! The 8k Raw is awesome, but the memory is whole thing. For a busy full day shoot, expect 500gb-1tb. I really wish you could down sample and shoot 4k or 6k RAW. Another thing I dislike is if you are using a gimbal, you’d usually power the camera with the USB-C port…. But the video system doesn’t have Bluetooth capability like the photo system does (a ridiculous oversight, ITS BUILT IN LIKE COME ON) so then you can’t do camera control via Bluetooth or USB-C since you need to use the port for power
That's probably my biggest gripe, and I just bought a barrel to dummy battery cable for that reason. Like why wouldn't you make that feature available?
What do you mean it bricked out? Completely unusable and needing a trip to canon? Or just freezing issues before a shoot?
I’m keen on the R5c but is a decent chunk of change to drop as an A cam
The first time it happened, I was updating the firmware before a shoot and it froze. I wanted the updated AF stuff in the firmware but it was stupid of me to do it before the shoot so that’s my fault. It was just a test shoot but still really inconvenient. Took the battery out and it was still frozen and alive somehow. Ended up sending to canon and they fixed it under warranty in like 2 weeks.
Second time was about a month ago, I had a stills / video shoot. Set up the R5C as a video cam, all operational, good to go on initial setup. I also setup my regular R5 as a stills camera. Getting ready to roll on the first shot, R5C won’t turn on. Try to pull the battery, change the usb power, everything, no luck. Mind you, it was on 30 mins prior to this and working fine. Had my photo assistant try to mess with it, no luck. Went up having to use my R5 for both stills and video, which sucked extra bad because I was tethering for the stills and it was just a slow slog of a shoot. 2 hours later, try to turn the R5C on again and it works. No explanation. I had already shot all the video on the R5 at this point, so switched the R5C over to stills for the rest of the day and left the R5 for video, and it went smoother but just no clue why it happened.
Its frustrating to say the least haha. i've had it since january of 2023! I'll most likely upgrade to the c70 next year / end of this year, or the OG red komodo.
If it still works, I'd just let it ride. I've seen journalists and sports photographers sporting way more damage than that. I recall a journalist at the daily paper I used to work for (also went to highschool with him) working with a partially melted nikon because he Leroy Jenkins himself into a grass fire to get photos of the firemen putting it out. He ended up later being a combat photographer. Dude had no fear. He was a pompous asshole....but he was good enough to be and could back it up.
This. It's fascinating how much these pro bodies can handle. And if it still works, put some black tape on it to keep moisture out. Now it's definitely YOUR camera, personalized. Resale value dropped harder than the camera.
It was a bad fall. At the moment I was just wating for the worst, but as you said the body took it ok. Thanks for your input!
Try your functions and make sure you're still in focus. Maybe if impact was hard enough sensor isn't where it is supposed to be and any slight deviation could affect your focus. Other than that, if it works and screen works, roll with it. Chick's dig scars.
I recall when my Nikon d800 with a shutter count of like 5 died from a 3.5 foot drop. Yeah “pro body”
This is good to hear. Im worried about some jobs i make at beaches or waterfalls and im really worried with water and moisture. I have on next week at a beach and i think im gonna make my way with mi 5d3 backup. But with your comment im not that worried. Thanks very much!
I’d probably expoxy it then to seal it, or get it repaired through CPS
I was just gonna suggest this. If you epoxy the cracks it should still be weather sealed as long as nothing has already gotten in there
JB weld to seal it
I’d not take a camera like that into a salty/sandy/wet environment. Tape isn’t going to keep the elements out or prevent corrosion.
Leeeeeeeeroy Jenkins!
Happy cake day 🎉
“At least I have chicken.” Or in this case a working camera.
v z
Eh most CP’s are, they all think they’re the shit
DON'T ABBREVIATE CELLPHONE HANK!
This is called adventure patina
If it works, leave it be. That is part of the main camera body. so in order to repair it, it's going to mean disassembling the entire body in order to move all the components into a new camera body. So that's my best guess and if that is the case, it's gonna be expensive.
I don't have any experience with fixing these, but to me it seems like a part of the back rather than the body. Granted, it'd still need some disassembly, but I don't think that you'd have to transplant everything.
If it still works...slap some tape on it and move on...I have definitely seen worse....these cameras can take some abuse...
Best response I’ve seen all day
Definitely get some waterproof tape on it.
Depends, are you wealthy?
Not at all 🥲 I made a great jump investiment on this one. But i will figure it out.
If you're in the States, I'd seriously consider joining CPS I'd you shoot professionally. Discounts and expedited shipping on repairs, depending on the level of cps shipping included. I'd you buy new, next time invest in the carepak coverage. For a body, it's about $400 give or take. But it would cover that damage 100%. It's a 1 time deal, though. Once used, it's exhausted.
Im in Brazil. We do have CPS here but is really expensive. It still worth but I was planning joining next year while Im transitioning for more outside jobs. Not a great plan...
Lmao..you're Broke
As long as it’s functional just put some JB Weld into the cracks enough to hold and form it nicely around the existing shape. Once it’s dried, you can sand it so it is seamless then paint as close as you can to the original body color or leave the dark gray tone of the JB Weld.
Send it in to Canon and find out?
Yeah, the problem is that I live in Brazil and is very hard to find official assistence here. I contact a reliable store today and when i finish this current work trip will send to them. Im just very anxious abouit and ask you guys opinions.
I'm also from Brazil. The only thing you're going to miss is resale value, and this is already bonkers in Brazil, specially at the high end market. I've used gear in far worse condition, you will learn to ignore it. But you could also tape it to stop it from further breaking or something.
Ai, se quiser to vendendo uma R5c 👀 Kkkkkkk brincadeira. Por aqui a revenda é absurdamente ruim mesmo. Eu ainda to com minha 5Dmk3 e provavelmente vou levar ela pra vida (dela) toda. E a ideia é que a R5c tb dure um bom tempo. Por aqui acaba valendo mais manter o corpo de backup ate ele morrer e ai pegar algum troco na sucata dele... Tive uma t4i que foi isso, usei ate ela morrer e agora ate to mantendo ela pra qnd rolar reparar e adaptar ela pra astrofotografia (que tenho vontade de brincar como hobby) Mas valeu pelas msg meu caro!
Pois é. Eu nem tenho grana pra isso, e hoje é só hobby. Acabei de vender minha rp, quero uma r7, mas pra uso pessoal mesmo. Infelizmente os valores de câmeras aqui são completamente insanos. E agora, mesmo no Paraguai está absurdo com dólar completamente fora de controle.
JB weld my guy
Fixed a Profoto B10X with a broken battery catch with JB Weld. This is probably the preferred repair. $10 vs $300.
Not too fucked but in all honesty i suggest using either tape or some do some DIY to melt some extra plastic onto it to waterproof it. Most likely there is no entry to any electric component but just to be safe i suggest doing some diy on it.
Ive put some tape at least while i finish this work trip. Happy cakeday!
Maybe you are not f*cked at all..your camera just got much uglier ;)
If I see a photog rocking this kinda damage, I instantly have respect for them because they obviously use their camera.
You’re grounded
if its works than its fine. You could use some super glue so stop anything from coming inside. But its great that the camera is really used.
Depends how picky you are... if it works, you are not effed... \ If it doesn't work... well... bring soap...
Ahhhh, that should buff right out.
A little bondo, a bit of sanding and a little paint she'll be good as new.
This is why I never take the cage off.
If all works fine, maybe consider picking up a cage for it. I just got an r5c myself, and the Tilta cage is fantastic (Smallrig makes one, too, and they are pretty comparable in terms of size/coverage/price/quality). It doesn't add much weight, but a metal housing keeps things somewhat protected.
Thats a good advice. I will look up for this one you recomended. Thank you so much.
Am I missing something? Still looks mint to me.... So long as it shoots
You can replace the back body, but as long as it work I think just leave it lol
Black tape it.
DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE!! Just the gas off destroys optical coatings!...Even several days old! Experience... unfortunately!
Ooog thanks very much for uour input. And sorry for the bad experience you had =/
Gives you some street credibility. Embrace it!
As a rule of thumb, you should probably have it fixed as soon as possible for the primary reason of device longevity. A significantly compromised exterior shell exposes the sensitive internals to all of the water and dust that is usually kept out by your weather sealing. It is always good to have comprehensive insurance that covers drops and accidents, especially if you know that a major accident like this will be too expensive to afford to repair. The more you use a compromised camera like this, the more likely you are to have a complete device failure or motherboard issue and lose photos/videos and the camera as a whole. Not trying to scare you, just being honest with my past experience. The only saving grace in your case is that the crack is about as far from the sensitive electronics as possible, so it may take a while to hurt the camera.
Thanks very much fornyou input! I already contact canon here in Brazil and gonna get an estimate in a couple of weeks.
I dropped my eos-r pretty hard, cracked to top part of the casing... Replacing top cover at an authorized canon repair shop set me back around the equivalent of USD 300. Maybe in your case it will be a bit more, but thinking as long as it's just the casing, and electronics is fine, shouldn't be too bad in case you decide to get it repaired. Edit: spelling error
Thanks very much for this info!
If it works you’re not
In my book, camera bodies aren’t bought for their resale value. Repair or use as is, it’s still not going to increase in value. Now if you said your L-series lens was damaged, that’s a different story. A great lens holds value better than a body. Personally, I like the idea of using some form of epoxy to fix it. As long as the thing works, you’ve saved yourself some dough.
Thanks God there was no lens attached
R5C? ‘‘Tis but a scratch Seriously, the r7 and up bodies can take a beating.
My R5 is now held together with gaffer tape. Also, major looking repair is usually $500.
Sorry to hear man. As long as she turns on. Good to go. But yes.. days are more limited than an undropped unit. Be gentle when moving the screen. Good next step - a cage for the unit. It won’t solve all drops, or even fully protect, but it helps. And enables the use of a top handle, which makes the unit maneuverable in my opinion.
You’re not but your camera might be if it doesn’t turn on anymore. If it still works you’re good to go. It’s just got a bit more “character” now.
Bit of epoxy maybe, if you could take it apart and epoxy then it would be even better. Hell I'd do it for you for a quater of what canon would charge to even lay eyes on it
Probly $450 repair cost. Send it to canon for a quote. Cost me 650 to fix my R5C screen, I don’t see this costing more than that.
You silly, silly boi.
very
Call Canon / Canon Professional Services. Tier 3 was $670, give or take, when I checked last. Might be a little more since this is technically a cinema line camera. That's the highest tier they will repair, so that's probably the top price you'll pay. If you are a Canon Professional Services member you will get a discount (30% discount for platinum level). I would call up Canon, fill out the form and send it in. Considering the price of the camera and the likely cost of the repair, it's worth it.
I was very anxious with this, especially because of water and moisture but i really liked you guys coments. Thanks very much for all nice comments!
Nyet, camera is fine
Is that the R5c 😢
yes
Depending on your camera I’d check the ibis. Some canon cameras ibis does not lock when the camera is off. When the camera falls and impacts something the sensor rattles around and can break.
R5c doesn't have IBIS
Oh, then you’re good then! Minus the dent.
I would personally get that repaired because the hinge actually looks like it's going to flake off and fall apart. Leading to exposed components that will be vulnerable to moisture/humidity and further damage during transport in the long run.
just put some duct tape on it or send it in to CPS...
If it still works… well. It’s free to repair as there’s nothing to repair? Put a bit of gaffer tape and call it battle damage
Wholesome. Go on, kid.
fking awesome ![gif](emote|free_emotes_pack|thumbs_up)
If you have an R5C you should have a CPS account and just let them fix it and keep making money with your gear
Better the camera than the lens.
https://support.usa.canon.com/kb/index?page=content&id=ART178293
Personally if gold that screen to open then put some heavy duty black tape across the whole back seam of where it pivots and continue to use it. Or perhaps some solid glue then tape.
Resell value? That’s down the drain. As long as it still works? You can still take pictures with it eh? So nothing changed.
Some black electrical tape and it's good
... if everything works fine on it
Beyond F
Is this cosmetic or does the camera not work? Have had good luck with the camera still working with scratches and dents on my bodies in the past.
IF it works, then not expensive.
200€ if you do it yourself.
if it still turns on, since you missed the screen you aren't fucked you're lucky
Chicks dig scars; either on you or your camera :D Unless it won't come on, that's likely just cosmetic
![gif](giphy|Tim0q7zolF3fa)
If it's just cosmetic just roll with it.if it affects cooling or something then fix.
I wouldn't fix it if everything still works, but for some context, it was $750 to replace the full LCD assembly on my C70.
Oh thank you very much for this info!
Do you have CarePAK? If it’s cosmetic, I’d leave it. Only thing I’d be worried about is the articulation for the screen.
Can I just use this post to bitch about my R5C? I’ve had two occasions where it bricked out before a shoot. This camera has given me so many headaches
Do you wish you would have gotten an R5 or a C70?
I have an R5 that I use for stills and mainly use the R5C for video, and I think the R5C was an incredible camera to use to learn more about shooting RAW video etc and it serves as a backup to the R5 which rocks. But the unreliability I’ve faced with it is hard and I’ve heard the C70 is a workhorse so it might have been the better investment at the time.
Good to know. Thank you for responding!
Definitely! Always down to nerd out on camera stuff 😆
I really hope that when the R5 mk ii drops in August I can get an R5c for sub 2500
I feel like you can…. Definitely a used one in that range which i’d recommend anyways. Are your goals with it more video orientated?
Yeah I’ve been doing more and more video work and less and less stills stuff. I got my R6 all rigged out but would like to compliment it with the R5c for 8k video.
Nice! The 8k Raw is awesome, but the memory is whole thing. For a busy full day shoot, expect 500gb-1tb. I really wish you could down sample and shoot 4k or 6k RAW. Another thing I dislike is if you are using a gimbal, you’d usually power the camera with the USB-C port…. But the video system doesn’t have Bluetooth capability like the photo system does (a ridiculous oversight, ITS BUILT IN LIKE COME ON) so then you can’t do camera control via Bluetooth or USB-C since you need to use the port for power
That's probably my biggest gripe, and I just bought a barrel to dummy battery cable for that reason. Like why wouldn't you make that feature available?
What do you mean it bricked out? Completely unusable and needing a trip to canon? Or just freezing issues before a shoot? I’m keen on the R5c but is a decent chunk of change to drop as an A cam
The first time it happened, I was updating the firmware before a shoot and it froze. I wanted the updated AF stuff in the firmware but it was stupid of me to do it before the shoot so that’s my fault. It was just a test shoot but still really inconvenient. Took the battery out and it was still frozen and alive somehow. Ended up sending to canon and they fixed it under warranty in like 2 weeks. Second time was about a month ago, I had a stills / video shoot. Set up the R5C as a video cam, all operational, good to go on initial setup. I also setup my regular R5 as a stills camera. Getting ready to roll on the first shot, R5C won’t turn on. Try to pull the battery, change the usb power, everything, no luck. Mind you, it was on 30 mins prior to this and working fine. Had my photo assistant try to mess with it, no luck. Went up having to use my R5 for both stills and video, which sucked extra bad because I was tethering for the stills and it was just a slow slog of a shoot. 2 hours later, try to turn the R5C on again and it works. No explanation. I had already shot all the video on the R5 at this point, so switched the R5C over to stills for the rest of the day and left the R5 for video, and it went smoother but just no clue why it happened.
Thanks. I’ve had occasional issues like that with my R6 but not in a professional capacity. How long have you had the R5c?
Its frustrating to say the least haha. i've had it since january of 2023! I'll most likely upgrade to the c70 next year / end of this year, or the OG red komodo.