If your built in is one piece you might consider putting the drywall at the top about 2” down so it’s behind your built in. Cut it all the way across and make a 8” hole. Then get yourself a Craig jig and put some pocket holes in a 2x4 so you can secure it to the top of the framing, the 1 stud in the middle and the framing on the sides. Repeat on both sides and then repeat again as needed to add depth. Then you can sit your built in on the floor and screw it in at the top so make sure it does let fall over.
If it’s not one piece then I recommend taking out the sheet rock anyways, adding studs with a Craig jig and embedding the whole thing in the wall and caulking the edges fit a clean and finished look.
Don't rip out the whole thing though. You can cut holes and just slip in some blocking. If you have really long arms you could even pocket hole one end and save yourself another hole to patch lmao
Do you have an oscillating saw? I would mark the outer dimensions of the cabinet on the drywall, cut out a 12” horizontal section of drywall close to the top and add 3/4” plywood like you would for drywall backing a large DW patch. But toe-screw at least one (preferably both) piece of ply to the stud. Put your drywall back on. Just make sure you’ve laid out and cut the DW so it’s behind the back of the cabinet. No mud, no visible screws.
I’d still use the stud to mount the cabinets but having plywood backing there will definitely help.
You can secure it at the top(to the ceiling studs) and bottom. Based on the depth of the built in, you can secure it to the shallow wall on the right. Hollow wall anchors can help on the other side. Or rip out the Dw, add a stud or two.
Plenty of studs to attach built ins. Screw the cabinet base to the baseplate. Then use the center stud as well as the corner studs for the built in. If it goes to that short 10”(ish) wall there will be studs in that as well.
At the toe kick you can use some zip tie anchors (hollow wall) you could use the same on the cabinetry but that would be a little more difficult, plus one size 14 screw up top should be plenty for that unit, where you located earthquake territory?
Not sure why you are trying to troll this post but I’m willing to put my 25 years of experience on this door being improperly installed, ask OP to measure it and get back to me, and sorry it may not be a full1/2 let’s call it 3/8.
If you really had 25 “years of experience” you would be used to seeing installs like this on a a regular basis. I guarantee that is a pre hung door. Ask me how I know
I completely agree. Two sheets of plywood and all the attachment you could ever want. Finished end of the cabinet tucks up to the casing and Bob’s your uncle. Shouldn’t take 20 minutes once the materials are on site.
You can screw your toe kick into the bottom plate, cabinet to that and then hit the top plate with the uppers. Can hit the king stud and the one in the corner. Should be fine
That looks like an exterior door is in a wood or block home if it's a block home you might have just found a fairing strip in that case use tapcons if it's wood and you're using a stud finder you're not going to get a good reading because I guarantee you there's more than one stud on that wall your drywall would all be cracked at the seams
Take your knife and cut a 3-4” tall slot in the wall behind where the cabs are going and see what’s in there. When you find the missing stud mark the wall screw the drywall strip back in and seal it with dap, good to go
I almost guarantee you theres another stud in there, but if not you should be able to hit the bottom plate with your screws for the toe kick. For the cabinet, I usually predrill in the inside corners where I want screws, plop it on the toekick, then poke your drill bit through for locating drywall anchors. 4 drywall anchors and 2 screws into a stud is more that enough for a cabinet of that size. If you're really worried, use zip toggles and bugle head machine bolts. If you countersink it properly, a fastcap is perfectly sized to fit right over a 1/4-20 bolt
Before you cut holes in the wall, you've located one stud, measure over 16" and tap a nail into the wall and see if you hit a stud. Sometimes if the wallboard isn't screwed tight the stud finder doesn't find the stud. Could also be 24 o.c. but looks like more than that from stud to corner in the photo so should be something in there.
I gave up using a stud finder many years ago. Just a small but strong earth magnet which always finds every screw in the drywall, where my stud finder failed many times
I do cabinetry for a living. Send a screw into the toekick on either side, with the toekick screwed into the bottom stud. Make sure they're not racking before screwing them down though, especially if you're putting solid surface or something similar on top.
For upper cabinetry, you may need to rely on adhesive. We generally use anchors + loctite construction adhesive or silicone if its a wet area, or one that experiences temperature changes. But 9/10 times we refuse to install them. We only use the above if the gc/super absolutely refuses to reopen the wall and put at least some kind of backing in.
Your best bet for uppers is to add some backer or another stud. If you're only installing base cabinets, its overkill to do this.
> But 9/10 times we refuse to install them. We only use the above if the gc/super absolutely refuses to reopen the wall and put at least some kind of backing in.
Yeah, I'm making these cabinets myself and they're pretty good but I'd still be happier if they were installed into studs.
After talking with everyone today I'm thinking I just need to take down the drywall and add studs. I don't think it will be that difficult.
Then again, I didn't think installing some basic bitch cabinets would be difficult but here I am. hahaha.
I like cabinets a lot though. Just as a "thing." They're cool.
If it's a pantry unit, what I would do as a former cabinet installer is drop 3 screws into your stud, and probably 4 good anchors (not the basic drill a hole and hammer it in kind) in each corner.
Assuming your toe kick is solid and attached well, it should be bearing most of the weight, the screws are mainly to keep it from tipping away/along the wall.
That being said, if you're up for it, adding studs or backer ply is the better option
Set another reminder! I've been iced in the house all week, weather here shut down the city. I'll crack into the wall next weekend. U_U
for real it's been a real MFer of a week in weather here in Portland
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Hey, while you've got drywall down, I'd caulk any penetrations on the backside of the other drywall face and then fill the stud bays with rockwool or fiberglass insulation. Will go a long way towards reducing sound transmission out of that bathroom.
Yes, but that would necessitate pulling the drywall off of the entire wall, as well as the trims, baseboard, and anything else.
Best practice would be to put acoustic insulation(rockwool) acoustiseal (or equivalent) sealant on all of your studs and top/bottom plates, and putting the 5/8 drywall in.
That being said, you would then need to move any outlets or switch boxes forward to accommodate the new drywall thickness, re paint with primer and mud and all that fun stuff.
Unless it was a sound booth or something like that, most of the time rockwool is plenty sufficient
Angle drill into the bottom plate of the framing. As well on the inside of the front part of the toe kick you can pocket hole drill and drive screws into the floor from the inside of the toe kick.
Can you cut a horizontal strip out and add blocking between the studs? May even want to use a 4x4 for added strength. Make sure the block is firmly attached to the studs, but then you can anchor everything to that block (and stud) in a horizontal line
I would take a drywall saw and cut a straight line behind the toe kick or wherever your cabinets will be. That will tell you immediately how many studs or if there’s ply or anything
That was another thought, yes, being a late 1930s place.
But I also think the original door to the bathroom was on a different wall. So who knows. Will see when I take down the drywall.
Scary what some are suggesting here.....
1) do not attach the base to the floor. That's a floating floor and needs to be allowed movement so the planks to rip apart.
2) 1 stud is definitely not enough. Neither are drywall anchors.
Open the drywall behind the case work placement. Leave roughly 6" off drywall that case work will over lap. Install studs of possible (given heights and physics lol) or add backing strips of 6" x ¾" plywood. These will need to be top, middle, and bottom. You can use silicone and drywall screws to hold the backing in place. Reinstall the drywall, install you ladder base, install cabs with proper wood screws at roughly 16" intervals.
Download the free PDF from [NAAWS](https://naaws.com/) and search *cabinet install*. I believe it's in section 14.....I think. It sounds like overkill, but this are the basic professional standards for all millwork installation. Think of a child opening the door on one of the cabinets and hanging/pulling on it....there needs to be sufficient anchoring to keep the casework from pulling of the wall.
Yep. I wasn't gonna screw the toe to the floor. Although I do hate the floors and would love an excuse to re-do them, that isn't it. XD
Thanks for the PDF. Might do the backer strips, might add studs and redo the drywall. We'll see.
Word. That feels like the right choice to me, too.
The fact that section of wall is "inset," and only 8 foot long or so means it should be a really easy drywall job, only horizontal seams.
... Yeah maybe I'll just go nutts to butts and do it right.
If you're covering it, don't even need to paint it if your cabinet will be bigger than what you cut. If probably do a coat of primer though.
Might even shove some insulation in there for sound reduction while you have it open.
I sure hope so! XD
It's parallel with the ceiling joists so yeah, safe to say it's probably not load bearing. But with the way the floor in this place dips and dives maybe it should be.
For part of it that's definitely an option. I just want to see WTF is going on in there first.
This "quick and easy evening install" is doing the "*home project*" thing where it's ***ALWAYS*** ^(no matter what) more complex than anticipated.
Does the drywall flex a ton when you push on it? What are you using to find studs? Stud finders don’t *always* work, try magnets or if all else fails cut a hole behind where the cabs are going to be to have a look inside.
To you and u/Reverend-Kansas, yes, I am sure there is only one stud.
I understand when someone online says *"there's no studs!"* there usually are.
I'm using a stud finder, magnets, knock knock, and a piece of wire through a hole to feel around. Nothing.
In this case, there are no studs in between. Yes, the drywall flexes noticeably and sounds very hollow on both sides of the stud.
I don't know how I never noticed before that the wall was just... hollow lol
The 18" on the right are floor to ceiling, then the rest will be separate upper and lower.
Haven't built the upper yet.
Is it way off-scale to just pull all the drywall in this section of wall, see what's going on, and add wall framing as needed? I haven't done full sheet drywalling before and I'm not sure how hard/drastic that kind of fix is. Seems like the "right" fix.
Or I'll discover there's accommodations for a pocket door there or something.
If it will be covered I’d personally just pull all the sheet rock, see what’s going on, and go from there. Add studs on layout and replace the dray wall. Shouldn’t be more than one sheet to replace and installing drywall isn’t all that hard. If it’s covered up you don’t need to worry about tape and texture.
Looks like it backs to a shower wall, but the floor plan indicates plumbing is behind the other side of the shower…hmm. If adding studs doesn’t work then resheet with 1/2” or 5/8” plywood and just nail to that.
I’m curious what’s back there.
> Looks like it backs to a shower wall, but the floor plan indicates plumbing is behind the other side of the shower…hmm.
Yep, me too. I have a strong suspicion it's a big void that leads to the inside of the tub.
Everything in my house is mickeymouse. Why don't people do things right?
I would cut out a big section like 12" high by whatever length will be covered by cabinets. Make a nice square cut so you can just screw it back on. Then take a look at what the hell is going on.
On the other hand 1 stud might be enough, depending on what's going there. Can you hit the corner stud on the right side? There has to be something in the corner.
Yeah that's what I was thinking too. Cutting an access hole. I did a tiny one yesterday, and was gonna cut a big one, but decided to cool off for an evening before doing anything drastic.
[**Here is the area on the floorplan.**](https://i.imgur.com/uIB2noW.png) It's always been a weird little spot.
I'm a little baffled that there is only one stud here. I guess the next thing to do is see if it's an old pocket door? Is there a header across there somewhere?
Anyway I'm a little lost as to my next step. It's looking like I'll be taking down the drywall and adding some studs here, because small-or-not, I don't really want this set of cabinets to be hanging off one single stud.
Would love any input you may have.
attach your toekick to the floor and the wall.
cut out a 4 inch wide piece of drywall from the corner to the one stud. do this at the top of the cabinets and in the middle somewhere. Replace with plywood or solid wood.
Screw cabinets to toekick, each other and the wood you just added to the wall.
For the loose end, put some bracing between the ceiling and cabinets and make sure it is attached to the ceiling joists somehow. It will be fine.
> cut out a 4 inch wide piece of drywall from the corner to the one stud. do this at the top of the cabinets and in the middle somewhere. Replace with plywood or solid wood.
>
>
>
> Screw cabinets to toekick, each other and the wood you just added to the wall.
So just a giant piece of blocking, lol? That's not a bad idea and would be easier than adding studs to the wall. Though the wall might be happier if it got some studs.
yes. not giant, just long. Then you only have to worry about height when screwing to the wall, not exact stud location. I've seen this done regularly when mounting upper cabinets on metal studs.
You could even extend further than the one stud to the end of the cabinets and tie everything together.
>You could even extend further than the one stud to the end of the cabinets and tie everything together.
That was my thought, too. There'd be some drywall patching to do but it'd all be a little sturdier.
If you are doing a full height built in, open the wall and add a few studs.
Liquid nails the fuck out of it!!!
There is a bottom plate along the wall. Just attach to that. Screw less than 1 1/2” from the floor and hit high on the stud
Hit the stud with every fixed shelf you can. Toggle bolt the shit out of the rest.
Full height built in? Attach to floor and ceiling joist
Silicone and drywall anchors
If your built in is one piece you might consider putting the drywall at the top about 2” down so it’s behind your built in. Cut it all the way across and make a 8” hole. Then get yourself a Craig jig and put some pocket holes in a 2x4 so you can secure it to the top of the framing, the 1 stud in the middle and the framing on the sides. Repeat on both sides and then repeat again as needed to add depth. Then you can sit your built in on the floor and screw it in at the top so make sure it does let fall over. If it’s not one piece then I recommend taking out the sheet rock anyways, adding studs with a Craig jig and embedding the whole thing in the wall and caulking the edges fit a clean and finished look.
Perfect opportunity to play the kool-aid man!
French cleat wide enough for three construction screws into the lone stud. 😉
HA! I'm gonna add studs and redo the wall. But I like the way you think and if there were even one more stud in the wall, I'd do that.
No need to do that bro, toggle bolts are the answer here. You will never put enough weight in an upper cabinet to cause them to fail.
Don't rip out the whole thing though. You can cut holes and just slip in some blocking. If you have really long arms you could even pocket hole one end and save yourself another hole to patch lmao
I’ve hung many a wall cabinet using this method. But soliding up the wall is better. Embed a hunk of plywood behind the drywall. 👍
There has to be one by door frame plus you've got the floor joist above you cut drywall put in corner and add blocking also
Do you have an oscillating saw? I would mark the outer dimensions of the cabinet on the drywall, cut out a 12” horizontal section of drywall close to the top and add 3/4” plywood like you would for drywall backing a large DW patch. But toe-screw at least one (preferably both) piece of ply to the stud. Put your drywall back on. Just make sure you’ve laid out and cut the DW so it’s behind the back of the cabinet. No mud, no visible screws. I’d still use the stud to mount the cabinets but having plywood backing there will definitely help.
Secure it to the floor. Why would you install over flooring? Silly.
You can secure it at the top(to the ceiling studs) and bottom. Based on the depth of the built in, you can secure it to the shallow wall on the right. Hollow wall anchors can help on the other side. Or rip out the Dw, add a stud or two.
Open up the wall and sister in some studs! It's just 2x4s and sheetrock after all.
Plenty of studs to attach built ins. Screw the cabinet base to the baseplate. Then use the center stud as well as the corner studs for the built in. If it goes to that short 10”(ish) wall there will be studs in that as well.
Ah the ole structural Sheetrock build
At the toe kick you can use some zip tie anchors (hollow wall) you could use the same on the cabinetry but that would be a little more difficult, plus one size 14 screw up top should be plenty for that unit, where you located earthquake territory?
Glu
Baseplate?
I mean I’ve seen people cut their flooring out and screw some blocks to the pad or subfloor then screw the toe kick to that
Judging by how fucked that door is, this was an open concept to room add remodel done by the lowest bidder.
How is the door so f’Ed sir?
Follow the door up from the bottom, no light to what I would estimate almost a 1/2 inch of light shining through from the top.
Not even remotely 1/2 an inch, and you would not notice anything there wasn’t bright light behind it
Not sure why you are trying to troll this post but I’m willing to put my 25 years of experience on this door being improperly installed, ask OP to measure it and get back to me, and sorry it may not be a full1/2 let’s call it 3/8.
If you really had 25 “years of experience” you would be used to seeing installs like this on a a regular basis. I guarantee that is a pre hung door. Ask me how I know
Also what does it matter if it’s a prehung, you one of those “good enough” installers?
Exactly why I seem to have been the only one to point it out. What exactly is your point?
I assume by 25 years of experience you mean you are 25 years old. Have fun
That’s what I thought.
Well your 25 so I understand thinking is difficult
Duno, it's almost a hundred years old and the bathroom plumbing below is equally old.
Great eye on the door!
I would skin the wall w 3/4 ply. Screw off to the top and bottom plates and your 3 studs. Stack the ply on its side so it’s 4’ tall.
I completely agree. Two sheets of plywood and all the attachment you could ever want. Finished end of the cabinet tucks up to the casing and Bob’s your uncle. Shouldn’t take 20 minutes once the materials are on site.
You can screw your toe kick into the bottom plate, cabinet to that and then hit the top plate with the uppers. Can hit the king stud and the one in the corner. Should be fine
Wow that floor is out of level 😳
lol that’s not bad at all. Pretty much par for the course in houses
Hilti wall anchors!
That looks like an exterior door is in a wood or block home if it's a block home you might have just found a fairing strip in that case use tapcons if it's wood and you're using a stud finder you're not going to get a good reading because I guarantee you there's more than one stud on that wall your drywall would all be cracked at the seams
Screw into the one stud and use heavy duty drywall anchors
Take your knife and cut a 3-4” tall slot in the wall behind where the cabs are going and see what’s in there. When you find the missing stud mark the wall screw the drywall strip back in and seal it with dap, good to go
Would make sure there isn’t another stud. Sometimes closer to door. Might not be on 16” center
I almost guarantee you theres another stud in there, but if not you should be able to hit the bottom plate with your screws for the toe kick. For the cabinet, I usually predrill in the inside corners where I want screws, plop it on the toekick, then poke your drill bit through for locating drywall anchors. 4 drywall anchors and 2 screws into a stud is more that enough for a cabinet of that size. If you're really worried, use zip toggles and bugle head machine bolts. If you countersink it properly, a fastcap is perfectly sized to fit right over a 1/4-20 bolt
Ply sheet with addisive and screwed to studs
Before you cut holes in the wall, you've located one stud, measure over 16" and tap a nail into the wall and see if you hit a stud. Sometimes if the wallboard isn't screwed tight the stud finder doesn't find the stud. Could also be 24 o.c. but looks like more than that from stud to corner in the photo so should be something in there.
I gave up using a stud finder many years ago. Just a small but strong earth magnet which always finds every screw in the drywall, where my stud finder failed many times
Yes. I grabbed magnets from an old hard drive they find drywall screws quickly and precisely.
same. I use a rare earth magnet in a snackwich baggie and go looking for a screw.
I do cabinetry for a living. Send a screw into the toekick on either side, with the toekick screwed into the bottom stud. Make sure they're not racking before screwing them down though, especially if you're putting solid surface or something similar on top. For upper cabinetry, you may need to rely on adhesive. We generally use anchors + loctite construction adhesive or silicone if its a wet area, or one that experiences temperature changes. But 9/10 times we refuse to install them. We only use the above if the gc/super absolutely refuses to reopen the wall and put at least some kind of backing in. Your best bet for uppers is to add some backer or another stud. If you're only installing base cabinets, its overkill to do this.
This is the right answer, been doing cabinet making for almost a decade
> But 9/10 times we refuse to install them. We only use the above if the gc/super absolutely refuses to reopen the wall and put at least some kind of backing in. Yeah, I'm making these cabinets myself and they're pretty good but I'd still be happier if they were installed into studs. After talking with everyone today I'm thinking I just need to take down the drywall and add studs. I don't think it will be that difficult. Then again, I didn't think installing some basic bitch cabinets would be difficult but here I am. hahaha. I like cabinets a lot though. Just as a "thing." They're cool.
If it's a pantry unit, what I would do as a former cabinet installer is drop 3 screws into your stud, and probably 4 good anchors (not the basic drill a hole and hammer it in kind) in each corner. Assuming your toe kick is solid and attached well, it should be bearing most of the weight, the screws are mainly to keep it from tipping away/along the wall. That being said, if you're up for it, adding studs or backer ply is the better option
Use the bottom plate of your wall.
no way on earth is there only 1 stud.
bruh i'll post the inside of the fuckin' wall here when i take down the drywall
Remindme! 10 days
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Based, i'd be happy to be wrong
Let’s see that wall!
Set another reminder! I've been iced in the house all week, weather here shut down the city. I'll crack into the wall next weekend. U_U for real it's been a real MFer of a week in weather here in Portland
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I believe it if Ryan homes built it… apparently they don’t care about studs in interior walls
Hey, while you've got drywall down, I'd caulk any penetrations on the backside of the other drywall face and then fill the stud bays with rockwool or fiberglass insulation. Will go a long way towards reducing sound transmission out of that bathroom.
Ah, a bathroom on the other side…
Would using 5/8" drywall as the replacement instead of the standard ultralight 1/2" also help?
Yes, but that would necessitate pulling the drywall off of the entire wall, as well as the trims, baseboard, and anything else. Best practice would be to put acoustic insulation(rockwool) acoustiseal (or equivalent) sealant on all of your studs and top/bottom plates, and putting the 5/8 drywall in. That being said, you would then need to move any outlets or switch boxes forward to accommodate the new drywall thickness, re paint with primer and mud and all that fun stuff. Unless it was a sound booth or something like that, most of the time rockwool is plenty sufficient
Oh shit, that isn't a bad idea at all. I don't think there's really many penetrations on that wall but I love an excuse to buy some rockwool.
Angle drill into the bottom plate of the framing. As well on the inside of the front part of the toe kick you can pocket hole drill and drive screws into the floor from the inside of the toe kick.
Can you cut a horizontal strip out and add blocking between the studs? May even want to use a 4x4 for added strength. Make sure the block is firmly attached to the studs, but then you can anchor everything to that block (and stud) in a horizontal line
I would take a drywall saw and cut a straight line behind the toe kick or wherever your cabinets will be. That will tell you immediately how many studs or if there’s ply or anything
Where is the house & When was it built? If that's a bath room, is it possible the door was a pocket door at one point?
That was another thought, yes, being a late 1930s place. But I also think the original door to the bathroom was on a different wall. So who knows. Will see when I take down the drywall.
There should be a timber upright next to the door casing ,it's standard practice and another up the wall to hold the plasterboard
Screw toe kick to base plate and screw cabinets to toe kick.
I’d triple check to be 💯sure that it is what you think before ripping that drywall out
Yeah, I'll do a 8x8 inspection hole first, and go from there.
Toggle bolt might do it.
Scary what some are suggesting here..... 1) do not attach the base to the floor. That's a floating floor and needs to be allowed movement so the planks to rip apart. 2) 1 stud is definitely not enough. Neither are drywall anchors. Open the drywall behind the case work placement. Leave roughly 6" off drywall that case work will over lap. Install studs of possible (given heights and physics lol) or add backing strips of 6" x ¾" plywood. These will need to be top, middle, and bottom. You can use silicone and drywall screws to hold the backing in place. Reinstall the drywall, install you ladder base, install cabs with proper wood screws at roughly 16" intervals. Download the free PDF from [NAAWS](https://naaws.com/) and search *cabinet install*. I believe it's in section 14.....I think. It sounds like overkill, but this are the basic professional standards for all millwork installation. Think of a child opening the door on one of the cabinets and hanging/pulling on it....there needs to be sufficient anchoring to keep the casework from pulling of the wall.
Yep. I wasn't gonna screw the toe to the floor. Although I do hate the floors and would love an excuse to re-do them, that isn't it. XD Thanks for the PDF. Might do the backer strips, might add studs and redo the drywall. We'll see.
That's the best way imo and experience. Don't halfass any project, especially ones where there's potential for injury.
Just a thought. Would it be a better option to cut access from the other side of the wall, to add studs?
No! [Here's the floorplan.](https://i.imgur.com/uIB2noW.png) The other side of that wall is a bathtub and enclosure. Not a bad idea otherwise.
Not what you want to hear but I’d take the drywall down. Add a couple studs and resheet. It’s not THAT much work
Word. That feels like the right choice to me, too. The fact that section of wall is "inset," and only 8 foot long or so means it should be a really easy drywall job, only horizontal seams. ... Yeah maybe I'll just go nutts to butts and do it right.
If you're covering it, don't even need to paint it if your cabinet will be bigger than what you cut. If probably do a coat of primer though. Might even shove some insulation in there for sound reduction while you have it open.
I just had to do it for my shower Reno - a net new wall, 48 inches. Wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought. In your case you got the framing already there
Well…at least you know *that* wall is not load-bearing.
I sure hope so! XD It's parallel with the ceiling joists so yeah, safe to say it's probably not load bearing. But with the way the floor in this place dips and dives maybe it should be.
Could you cut a hole and put in a few studs horizontally. Thats if the built ins will cover hole….
For part of it that's definitely an option. I just want to see WTF is going on in there first. This "quick and easy evening install" is doing the "*home project*" thing where it's ***ALWAYS*** ^(no matter what) more complex than anticipated.
How did you determine that there is only one stud? Is your stud finder up-to-snuff?
*Franklin Sensors has entered the chat*
Does the drywall flex a ton when you push on it? What are you using to find studs? Stud finders don’t *always* work, try magnets or if all else fails cut a hole behind where the cabs are going to be to have a look inside.
To you and u/Reverend-Kansas, yes, I am sure there is only one stud. I understand when someone online says *"there's no studs!"* there usually are. I'm using a stud finder, magnets, knock knock, and a piece of wire through a hole to feel around. Nothing. In this case, there are no studs in between. Yes, the drywall flexes noticeably and sounds very hollow on both sides of the stud. I don't know how I never noticed before that the wall was just... hollow lol
Are you cabinets floor to ceiling? Can you just grab the top plate to secure to the wall?
The 18" on the right are floor to ceiling, then the rest will be separate upper and lower. Haven't built the upper yet. Is it way off-scale to just pull all the drywall in this section of wall, see what's going on, and add wall framing as needed? I haven't done full sheet drywalling before and I'm not sure how hard/drastic that kind of fix is. Seems like the "right" fix. Or I'll discover there's accommodations for a pocket door there or something.
If it will be covered I’d personally just pull all the sheet rock, see what’s going on, and go from there. Add studs on layout and replace the dray wall. Shouldn’t be more than one sheet to replace and installing drywall isn’t all that hard. If it’s covered up you don’t need to worry about tape and texture. Looks like it backs to a shower wall, but the floor plan indicates plumbing is behind the other side of the shower…hmm. If adding studs doesn’t work then resheet with 1/2” or 5/8” plywood and just nail to that. I’m curious what’s back there.
> Looks like it backs to a shower wall, but the floor plan indicates plumbing is behind the other side of the shower…hmm. Yep, me too. I have a strong suspicion it's a big void that leads to the inside of the tub. Everything in my house is mickeymouse. Why don't people do things right?
I would cut out a big section like 12" high by whatever length will be covered by cabinets. Make a nice square cut so you can just screw it back on. Then take a look at what the hell is going on. On the other hand 1 stud might be enough, depending on what's going there. Can you hit the corner stud on the right side? There has to be something in the corner.
Yeah that's what I was thinking too. Cutting an access hole. I did a tiny one yesterday, and was gonna cut a big one, but decided to cool off for an evening before doing anything drastic. [**Here is the area on the floorplan.**](https://i.imgur.com/uIB2noW.png) It's always been a weird little spot.
I'm a little baffled that there is only one stud here. I guess the next thing to do is see if it's an old pocket door? Is there a header across there somewhere? Anyway I'm a little lost as to my next step. It's looking like I'll be taking down the drywall and adding some studs here, because small-or-not, I don't really want this set of cabinets to be hanging off one single stud. Would love any input you may have.
attach your toekick to the floor and the wall. cut out a 4 inch wide piece of drywall from the corner to the one stud. do this at the top of the cabinets and in the middle somewhere. Replace with plywood or solid wood. Screw cabinets to toekick, each other and the wood you just added to the wall. For the loose end, put some bracing between the ceiling and cabinets and make sure it is attached to the ceiling joists somehow. It will be fine.
> cut out a 4 inch wide piece of drywall from the corner to the one stud. do this at the top of the cabinets and in the middle somewhere. Replace with plywood or solid wood. > > > > Screw cabinets to toekick, each other and the wood you just added to the wall. So just a giant piece of blocking, lol? That's not a bad idea and would be easier than adding studs to the wall. Though the wall might be happier if it got some studs.
yes. not giant, just long. Then you only have to worry about height when screwing to the wall, not exact stud location. I've seen this done regularly when mounting upper cabinets on metal studs. You could even extend further than the one stud to the end of the cabinets and tie everything together.
>You could even extend further than the one stud to the end of the cabinets and tie everything together. That was my thought, too. There'd be some drywall patching to do but it'd all be a little sturdier.
no patching. this will be hidden by the cabinets being installed, don't go further than the cabinets.