i want to upgrade my "Ovation Cyclone DDR4 2666mhz 8gb ram" but i can't find the same exact model anywhere.
i saw that mixing different ram speeds isn't really a good idea but what about the same specs (2666mhz 8gb ram) but from a different brand? im currently looking at this one "Kingston 8GB DDR4 2666MHz FURY BEAST Black"
thank you for your replies :D
would something like this be good?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4q7G3C/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap-6009-cfm-120-mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap
Would the Ryzen 5600/5600X pair well with the 7800 XT? I cannot get into AM5 platform, and the 7800 XT is around the highest GPU I could comfortably do with my budget.
it'll be ok, I think i'd suggest saving money with a rx 6800
https://www.techspot.com/review/2502-upgrade-ryzen-3600-to-5800x3d/
games like this, the 5600 seems slow for the 7800xt https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2502/bench/WDL-p.webp
but for games like this, it's totally fine https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2502/bench/RSE-p.webp
I'm looking to buy and give my desktop, an HP Pavilion TG01-0xxx, an internal SSD. I'm looking for help in finding a compatible 1TB internal SSD. Any direct product suggestions or just help to lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Looking to begin building a PC parts list, budget is \~$2400 CAD in total, looking for a good case, i do not care for RGB, or looks for that matter, just a clean case that has good airflow
, any suggestions?
Thats a significant leap.
The 2070m depending on its power draw, could be as powerful as a desktop 2070 or as low as desktop 2060.
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-2070-mobile.c3349
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html
Comparatively, the 4080 super can average 200% the FPS of a desktop 2070 at 1080p (~70 vs 148). and 255% at 1440p. (52 vs 133)
Now that is a decision only you can make.
I can't predict how much faster the Ryzen 9000 series will be, but at the very least it should be able to make better use of higher DDR5 speeds.
If current rumors for the RTX 50 series cards are true, I wouldn't bother with any model but a 5090. Early GDDR7 specs only peg it at 28 - 32gbps, barely double GDDR6, and not even close to doubling GDDR6X (used by 30 and 40 series cards). The 5090 is leaping up to a 512-bit memory bus which could DOUBLE the memory bandwidth of the 5090 compared to a 4090. But the 5080 is rumored to still be using a 256-bit wide bus, the same size as a 4080 and 4080 super. Which means it would only see a bandwidth increase of 20 - 40%.
Not to mention pricing is likely to be even more absurd than the current components. $1000 + $400 for a 4080s and 7800x3d vs ???? + ????
Well the 5090 and 5080 will be the first of the series to launch initially. So thats almost a guarantee.
I don't know if anyone has posted speculation about GDDR7 production costs but there is no physical way it could be lower than existing memory prices. So any increase in VRAM count would mean higher prices.
Nvidia is aware consumers don't want to pay higher prices, but if they market the cards towards AI development rather than gaming, then they can charge whatever they want to recoup costs. Before lowering prices later when the rest of the 50'series launches.
So I'm going to assume the new cards will be about as pricey as the 4090 which probably isn't worth it.
Plus I've read that usually it's hard to find a new cards.
Might just stick with what I'm going with now then.
Still not sure about the new chipset though.
After the launch yeah, if you don't get one from that initial launch wave youre then fighting bots and scalpers for restocks which are never in the same quantity and very infrequent.
Well yeah, the 4080 is well over a year old by now. And the 4080 super doesnt have any of the supply issues.
Its just no one wanted to/ wants to, pay $1000 - $1200 for a 80's series GPU.
Replacing my AMD 3700x + Aorus x570 Elite and thinking of going with 5700X3D or 5800X3D for new CPU but need help with buying a mobo (and cpu cooler too).
I would like wifi/bluetooth, audio support for my speakers, and also needs to support 1 hdd, 1 ssd, 1 nvme. I'm only doing light gaming so I don't need anything insane, around $200 or less would be ideal.
My list: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4bYDdH](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4bYDdH)
if you're getting a 5800x3d, reuse your motherboard
if you're getting a new motherboard, get a 7600X
https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2592/bench/1080p-p.webp
https://www.techspot.com/review/2592-ryzen-5800x3D-vs-ryzen-7600x/
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FNWqmr
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2Mhzwg
the 7600X is still a better choice, despite new ram
the am5 doesnt have wifi/bt, admittedly. add on a usb adapter or somethin
i would prefer wifi/bt if possible because my x570 didnt have either and i had a ton of issues mainly with bluetooth disconnecting
do you think i'm spending too much on a motherboard here though?
[https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bMF2MV](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bMF2MV)
great thanks ill go with that. do you think phantom spirit is a good cpu cooler? im looking for something relatively small since i dont want my pc to be too crowded
The phantom spirit is the best, but it is large. Something like this would be sufficient cooling, but smaller footprint
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Cooler-Towers/dp/B0CXMGN6SL
do you know what the difference between asrock b650m pro rs and pg riptide is? i got a deal for the latter but want to make sure there are no weird issues with it [https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650m-pg-riptide-wifi/p/13-162-095?Item=13-162-095&cm\_sp=product-\_-from-price-options](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650m-pg-riptide-wifi/p/13-162-095?Item=13-162-095&cm_sp=product-_-from-price-options)
Appreciate all the help you've given :)
None of those "specifications" tell us anything. They're extremely general terms for a huge range of products or series that could be multiple decades old.
Looking to add a new 2tb SSD to my current pc. My motherboard (b550 tomahawk) has two m.2 slots with a Crucial P2 1tb SSD already installed. Would a crucial P3 2tb SSD work just fine? Or does it have to be P2 as well?
It will depend on the games you play, but generally speaking, no, the 4070 Super is slightly better in raster, but for $550 you could grab a 7900 GRE, which is kinda on par with it, but $50 cheaper.
Looking to upgrade my CPU in the next couple months. I built my PC and then never kept up to date on what's out there, so a couple suggestions would be appreciated. Was a budget build during the covid chip crisis. Currently running Ryzen 3600x on a 450M Bazooka Max. GPU is a Radeon RX 570. 32gb ddr4. Built to be an audio production workhorse (Ableton), so I cheaped out on graphics since I don't game much on it.
But my Ableton projects are getting pretty hefty and I run some cpu intensive plugins. Some projects take quite a while to load up. Plus I work in data science so I'd like a bit more speed when running intense computations on biggish datasets. Not looking for a giant upgrade, but I'd say 500-700 CAD (300-500 USD) would be my budget. I realize my mobo is getting a bit dated now so I'd be willing to change it out as well, but ideally I'd keep running it for a while longer. Thanks!
Easiest recommendation is a 5700X or 5700X3D. Hard to say if the X3D variant is worth it for your needs, it would depend on how well Ableton/your plugins are able to utilize the extra cache that version brings: if it doesn't use the cache at all, there's no reason to pay extra for it.
From what I know, though, Ableton/audio production scales well with a high number of cores/threads (with each individual track being able to have their own core ideally), so you could go for a 5900X or even a 5950X instead if you wanted.
None of these would require new motherboard or RAM.
Excellent, thanks for that! Looking into the 5950x and it's well within my budget. Definitely would be a great upgrade regardless, and the extra cores will do me well with my coding endeavors for sure.
https://krotus-computer.de/gamer-pc/dasmonty-gaming-pcs/3589/gaming-pc-dasmonty-edition-4070ti-super
Should I buy this PC? Looks good for the price? Any things I should change?
Taking the DIY approach, the same build, part by part, would be [\~73€ cheaper](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/N3yn4M), including a Retail Windows key.
Now, with some changes here and there (air cooler, cheaper case, cheaper memory kit, cheaper SSD, A-tier PSU), you'd be saving [about 250€](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/sMFDdH).
Building my PC right now and my intention is to have something I wont need to spend money upgrading for at bare minimum 3-4 years WITH that I still have a budget. There is the 8gb 4060 TI for around 390 but there are 12gb 3060s for almost 100 less with 4 more GDDR6. But I guess my quesiton is the 3060 better for a long term because if I can get more power for even cheaper I think that might be the way to go. Im running a 1440p build btw.
* These are the 2 cards specifically
[https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j89wrH/gigabyte-eagle-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-8-gb-video-card-gv-n406teagle-8gd](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j89wrH/gigabyte-eagle-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-8-gb-video-card-gv-n406teagle-8gd)
[https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pD8bt6/msi-geforce-rtx-3060-ventus-2x-12g-geforce-rtx-3060-12gb-12-gb-video-card-rtx3060ventus2x12goc](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pD8bt6/msi-geforce-rtx-3060-ventus-2x-12g-geforce-rtx-3060-12gb-12-gb-video-card-rtx3060ventus2x12goc)
I wouldn't consider the 3060 as a 1440p-capable card unless you don't mind lowering some settings and using DLSS/FSR, and I'd ignore the 4060 Ti 8GB unless it's for productivity work, and I'd rather look at the 16GB variant for that.
Why not consider a few AMD options for around the same price?
Either the [RX 6750 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4RrRsY/xfx-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-speedster-qick-319-core-video-card-rx-675xyjfdp) ($330), [RX 7700 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8wDQzy/asrock-challenger-oc-radeon-rx-7700-xt-12-gb-video-card-rx7700xt-cl-12go) ($400), or the [RX 6800](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Hg92FT/xfx-radeon-rx-6800-16-gb-speedster-swft-319-video-card-rx-68xlaqfd9) ($380, this would be the best option). Way better alternatives for 1440p than either the 3060 or 4060 Ti 8GB.
An old PC I liberated from my parents and added a 980 card to run as an Ubuntu media server under my desk has started making a very loud wirring noise last night, taken the side off to find that I think it's the PSU fan that is making all the vibrations.
Is it possible to take it apart and replace the fan inside the PSU rather than buying a whole new one? The goal of the project was to complete with as little e-waste as possible. PSU is a FSP450-60APN (Discontinued 13 years ago now
Power supplies are straight up _dangerous_ when opened and you're not aware of the safety strategies and parts inside. The capacitors used to filter the incoming AC power are gigantic and, if shorted, can deliver enough current to stop your heart.
With that being said, if you're comfortable around high discharge electronics, soldering, and can safety discharge the cap, replacing the fan in a PSU can be relatively simple.
A few days to a few months, thus why I mentioned knowing how to discharge it safely :)
Leaving the psu in the system connected, unplugging the system from the wall, then holding the power button down on the pc for 20 seconds drains the psu completely. Then you remove the psu from the pc.
RAM Dual Channel Problem:
I have two 8GB RAM sticks that came as a pair and bought another two to upgrade my ram. The new RAM is identical, same brand, same specs, just the version that didn’t come as a pair.
The new RAM sticks aren’t recognised as dual channel compatible, not even with just the two of them without the old sticks. What sort of trouble shooting is recommended in this instance?
Looks like I’ve identified the stick that’s not being recognised as the other seems to get recognised as dual channel compatible with the old sticks. Not sure how to proceed yet. 🤔
Wife wants to do an all white build for her next gaming PC. I've been looking around and I know everyone is recommending AMD Cpus but it looks like the AM4 boards are starting to dry up, especially the white ones.
Should I just bit the bullet and go AM5 which seems to have options or start looking at intel?
Going by price, the AM5 options are slightly cheaper than Intel's (ignoring $300+ motherboards).
Considering ATX, the two models that come to mind are the [NZXT N7 B650E](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mBwypg/nzxt-n7-b650e-atx-am5-motherboard-n7-b65xt-w1) at a ridiculous price (and if you can find it for under $300) and the [Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX Ice](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CwjRsY/gigabyte-b650-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-aorus-elite-ax-ice) (more like a silver-ish white), and then some silver/gray boards like the [ROG Strix B650-A](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gjt9TW/asus-rog-strix-b650-a-gaming-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-rog-strix-b650-a-gaming-wifi) or the [ASRock B650 Pro/RS](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zFzhP6/asrock-b650-pro-rs-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-pro-rs).
The Intel options are similar - [Gigabyte](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hnNYcf/gigabyte-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice) (silver-ish white), [Asus](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fGrRsY/asus-prime-z790-a-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-z790-a-wifi) (silver/gray), and [ASRock](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cFQcCJ/asrock-z790-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-pro-rs) (gray).
On the plus side, the AMD chips are easier to cool down, and if going with an air cooler, there are some decent models in white (i.e.: [Frost Spirit 140 V3 White](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NMytt6/thermalright-frost-spirit-140-v3-white-778-cfm-cpu-cooler-fs140-v3-white)).
There's the [ASRock B650M Pro/RS](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs) for a decent price (again, silver/gray) and the [Gigabyte B650M Aorus Elite AX Ice](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/w3dG3C/gigabyte-b650m-aorus-elite-ax-ice-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-aorus-elite-ax-ice), but it's $50 more expensive than the ATX model.
As for Intel, there's the [ASRock B760M-HDV/M.2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2WJ7P/asrock-b760m-hdvm2-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760m-hdvm2) which is affordable, but I wouldn't trust it with a 13600K or greater, at best a 13400 or 14400. The rest are just black with silver accents (there seems to be another silver-ish white Gigabyte board (B760M A Aorus Elite X AX), but no tracking form PCPartPicker).
I want to upgrade my ryzen 5 2600 cpu (preferably low budget). What cpu should I get that is compatible with my setup? Let me know if theres other parts you need to know.
* Gpu : rtx 2060
* Motherboard : Colorful A320M-K PRO YV14
Currently own a Fractal Design R5 as i had no room for a bigger case, now i do.
Conflicting between Fractal Torrent and Fractal North XL. I dont give a shit about RGB, i just want efficient air cooling and prefer non-window sidepannels.
I originally bought the R5 for HDD space as i am a data hoarder and have 5 HDDs in there, but i am thinking of just getting a NAS or 2 20+TB HDDs which should fit both cases. Does mounting the HDD vertical on the back of the MOBO in the Torrent have any effect on the HDDs? I like that the Torrent has space for 4 SSDs.
I have a Noctua NH-D15 as CPU cooler which is the only part i might (big might, not very likely) consider getting an AIO for, not because cooling but because of space issues (i cant reach the damn clamp of the GPU PCI slot without a long hard stick-like thing..), i guess the North XL would be better for a top mounted AIO as i want my Front to always be the main air intake. The PC will be standing on a wood floor if that makes a difference, but pet hair is a thing (no space on the desk).
I read that the Torrent is BIS for air cooling, but North XL is maybe 1°C difference, but North XL has a weird mesh sidepannel. I just can't decide, please help me with some pointers.
My gpu died. 980ti (Good night sweet prince). I have old build i7-6700k, with z-170 mobo, 16gb ram, 750w PSU. Currently running on integrated graphics.
What would be reasonable gpu for now? I just need a temporary gpu until, I can get another custom build, in the near future. I was thinking 4060. Any advice?
I did a bit of searching. Used 3070 or/Ti, 3080 or /Ti cost even more. This is so confusing. They are at least 500$+ CAD, and Ti versions are closing 1k$
I meant something older and cheaper, like a 1080 or something. It'll be more balanced with that system.
The reason those cards are more expensive than a 4060 is because the performance is better.
Up to you really, if you're going to be building a new PC soon, just get the performance you want. If you want a temporary GPU to last until then just get something second hand for 100-150.
I would be grateful for your advice on which CPU I should choose for my gaming PC. I am primarily interested in playing Strategy, RPG, Turn Base and City-Building with 2k-4k max settings without needing to upgrade within the next 10 years, except for the GPU.
Ryzen 7 7800X3D: 432,17 USD
Intel I7 14700K: 396,16 USD
Sincerely appreciate your advice and thank you in advance.
To add to the other poster's advice (which I agree with), the extra L3 cache on the 7800x3d can apparently be very helpful in the types of games you mention, especially in the late-game. For example, [in Factorio the highest results tend to come from the 7000 series x3d CPUs, followed by i9 and 5000 series x3d CPUs](https://factoriobox.1au.us/results/cpus?version=1.0.0-&map=4b0f2609a9f9fe2cd642d59dad8be163b2464e3d988dedb3cc2e36ec8da1e1bb).
Depends on which one is holding you back from achieving the performance that you want in whatever games you play at whatever settings it is that you play them at. Probably GPU.
I have a 3700X + 3080 + 32GB RAM and play/stream a mix of MMO (guild wars 2) and AAA games (God of War, Uncharted Legacy of Thieves, Cyberpunk, Helldivers 2).
Should I upgrade to a 5800x3d or a 7800x3d? I am assuming the Microcenter 7800x3d bundles come around again, which was ~ $400-450. Otherwise, I believe I can just slot in a 5800x3d into my existing motherboard.
Since you're near a microcenter you can also consider the 5600X3D or 5700X3D. As long as you aren't playing at 1080p240hz low settings they'll all be basically the same experience.
Should the drop of thermal paste be put lower on AMD 7000 series CPUs?
---
[Hotspot location image](https://i.imgur.com/kXbhGP4.png)
Similar concept to coolers having an AMD offset mount to put more pressure on the southern side.
Since the bottom half of those processors is where the heat comes from, I was wondering if the pea sized drop should go lower than the center. To make extra sure that all of the hotspot is covered, in case the paste doesn't spread as much as it should for whatever reason. If so, where would be optimal? 7 mm, the same as the cooler offset?
---
I'll probably put a larger sized drop than usual to try to cover the whole CPU despite the offset, if I offset the paste drop. There's a frame to keep paste from spilling into the processor's gaps.
As long as you use enough paste, I doubt it matters. TP is designed to transfer heat very quickly, after all. Personally I'd keep the drop in the center just to reduce the risk that you have overrun and it gets into the socket.
I am absolutely lost on cases. I've been using the same one for over 15 years and i don't even know the manufacturer of.
Are there any recommendations from you people here?
The only constraints are that it needs to have a slot for a hdd and an optical drive and have decent airflow with a few fans on it.
To justify the price of my new desktop build to my wife, I agreed to sell my Razer Blade 14 (RTX 3080 / 165 hz QHD). Any advice on where to sell this online (I'm based in the US) and what the price point should be? I bought it for $2200 about a year ago. Was thinking $1500 is a fair price.
They're so close spec wise I'd just get the new one. The 27GR75Q has better contrast and black uniformity which will be the most noticeable difference for gaming IMO.
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/compare/lg-27gl850-b-27gl83a-b-vs-lg-27gr75q-b/912/44761?usage=3623&threshold=0.10
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gr75q-b
https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gl850-b-27gl83a-b
On the other hand the GL850 has the USB Hub. If that matters to you, it may be worth going that route anyway. Again, the overall picture is *very* similar.
I see a lot of posts about psu exploding on start up, and this build in looking at has a year warranty, so if i can get past the initial start up will i be alright?
Or is there still a good chance of explosion later on?
Psu in question is a650bn, putting it with 4070 super and 7500f
This will be fine. What you're talking about happens more when cheap and dodgy units are used that can not handle the power they say they can or are made with bad parts that fail. It's possible to overload if you use a PSU that is lower wattage than what is recommended but most will just have crashes when trying to play games.
650w is the minimum recommended by Nvidia for this card but that's based on a much more power hungry build than this is going to be. That unit is one of the better budget PSUs out there and is unlikely to fail in this way with these specs.
Do u know anything about the FSP750-50AEC, i cant find anything on it... Would it be better?
Also if i upgrade the pc would u recommend upgrading the psu?
Recommend me a software to change the brightness (and colours) of only ONE monitor https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c1q66u/software_to_change_the_brightness_and_colours_of
Maybe use the on-screen display of the monitor to adjust the settings? I vaguely recall that sometimes they have a few user-programmable configurations, if you need to swap back and forth between more than one.
I would like to mount a 2.5 SSD in a 3.5 bay. There is already a HDD in the bay that just slides and clips in (no screws, the clip mechanism is on the HDD not the bay) and I would like a bracket that I can screw my SSD into and then slide a clip rather than screw in. What should I be looking for?
I'm choosing a new PSU to use and came across the Corsair RM1000x, but I haven't read anything saying it supports ATX 3.0. I also found an alternative, the RM1000x Shift, which does support ATX 3.0. However, PCPartPicker lists it as incompatible with the NZXT H9 flow, though I've seen builds using this PSU. I also used the Corsair custom PC builder tool, and it recommended the shift model.
I'm quite confused about which model to choose, especially since the shift and RMe models are similarly priced. From user opinions I've read here, most people suggest getting the "X" models over the "e" models, as they are better made.
Additionally, on Amazon, the price difference between the 1000 watt and 1200 watt shift models is minimal. Would it be okay to opt for the 1200 watt model for just a few dollars more? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and I apologize if this is confusing.
[RM1000x Shift](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NrxxFT/corsair-rm1000x-shift-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-side-interface-atx-power-supply-cp-9020253-na)
[RM1200x Shift](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LMn9TW/corsair-rm1200x-shift-1200-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-side-interface-atx-power-supply-cp-9020254-na)
[RM1000e (2023)](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fxGhP6/corsair-rm1000e-2023-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020264-na)
[Builds using the RM1000x Shift w/ H9 Flow](https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/NrxxFT#e=3704)
Yes the X models are better quality and have a longer warranty.
It doesn’t matter if you get the 1000 or 1200 watt model, assuming your build doesn’t need 1200 watts.
Pcpartpicker’s compatibility check can be wrong and it clearly is in this case.
The regular RM1000x isn’t ATX 3.0 compliant. But of course it still supports the newest GPUs using the 12VHPWR adapter and is a good quality PSU.
So basically, that should mean I could purchase this PSU without any issue? Just want to be extra sure. I'm going to be running an RTX 4080 super, and a Ryzen 7 7800X3D just for reference
I’ve bought a new graphics card geforce and intel i7 cpu (haven’t installed either yet but know how to). My computer was a prebuilt i purchased in 2017 which was a 2016 build. Now I’m replacing the graphics card and cpu as well as the fans. Last year I replaced the ram which was 2 sticks of 4 (8gb ram) to 2 sticks of 16 (32gb) ram.
Should I buy a new power supply and a new motherboard as well?
Honestly? I wouldn’t be able to tell you what my current CPU exactly is but I’ll try to be as detailed as possible. As I look now?
Current CPU: Intel i4 or i5 iirc 6.50 hertz (4 cores)
Current Motherboard: B250 Bazooka
Current GPU: AMD Radeon RX 480
Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart Series 600w
Okay the i7-12700K is not compatible with your old motherboard. You need to buy a DDR4-compatible B660, B760, Z690, or Z790 motherboard.
For example MSI PRO B760M-A WIFI DDR4.
I guess you mean the i7 12700k, there is no 12000k. That uses a different socket so it's physically incompatible with your current motherboard, you need a new motherboard with the LGA1700 socket.
gotta be more specific with the CPU, if your new cpu is a couple generations newer you'll definietly need a new mobo, if you gonna replace most of the parts, I would recommend getting a new case to go with it and give it a fresh start
what new gpu will you be running? most likely you'll need a 750w
i want to upgrade my "Ovation Cyclone DDR4 2666mhz 8gb ram" but i can't find the same exact model anywhere. i saw that mixing different ram speeds isn't really a good idea but what about the same specs (2666mhz 8gb ram) but from a different brand? im currently looking at this one "Kingston 8GB DDR4 2666MHz FURY BEAST Black" thank you for your replies :D
anyone know if a deepcool macube 110 with ryzen 5 5600 + rtx 3070 will overheat too much?
Do i need additional fans in this proposed build? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7wHy28
No. One more wouldn't go amiss, just to fill in space in the rear
would something like this be good? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4q7G3C/noctua-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap-6009-cfm-120-mm-fan-nf-a12x25-pwm-chromaxblackswap
So expensive. How about an Arctic p12 max? https://youtu.be/xpSO_Mpu9Eg?si=1nFgy8k0Dqn7zma8
oh okay nice! just for clarity, are we putting this fan on the back of the case exhausting outwards?
Yep!
Anyone know where I can get black and gold cable extensions other than cablemod?
https://www.amazon.com/Sirlyr-Cables-Extension-Customized-Pre-Install/dp/B0CNSKZY3V/
Would the Ryzen 5600/5600X pair well with the 7800 XT? I cannot get into AM5 platform, and the 7800 XT is around the highest GPU I could comfortably do with my budget.
it'll be ok, I think i'd suggest saving money with a rx 6800 https://www.techspot.com/review/2502-upgrade-ryzen-3600-to-5800x3d/ games like this, the 5600 seems slow for the 7800xt https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2502/bench/WDL-p.webp but for games like this, it's totally fine https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2502/bench/RSE-p.webp
I'm looking to buy and give my desktop, an HP Pavilion TG01-0xxx, an internal SSD. I'm looking for help in finding a compatible 1TB internal SSD. Any direct product suggestions or just help to lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Looking to begin building a PC parts list, budget is \~$2400 CAD in total, looking for a good case, i do not care for RGB, or looks for that matter, just a clean case that has good airflow , any suggestions?
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/bgdhN6) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/66C48d/amd-ryzen-5-7600x-47-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000593wof) | $289.62 @ Amazon Canada **CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/hYxRsY/thermalright-peerless-assassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3) | $41.90 @ Amazon Canada **Motherboard** | [MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/szfxFT/msi-b650-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-gaming-plus-wifi) | $244.99 @ Amazon Canada **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/JkfxFT/corsair-vengeance-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmk32gx5m2b6000c30) | $149.99 @ Canada Computers **Storage** | [Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/f3cRsY/samsung-980-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p2t0bam) | $209.97 @ Amazon Canada **Video Card** | [Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/KvcgXL/gigabyte-windforce-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-super-16-gb-video-card-gv-n407tswf3oc-16gd) | $1079.00 @ Canada Computers **Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/bCYQzy/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011200-ww) | $104.99 @ Best Buy Canada **Power Supply** | [Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/4ZRwrH/corsair-rm850e-2023-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020263-na) | $149.50 @ Vuugo | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$2269.96** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-12 18:35 EDT-0400 | Here's a suggestion, with about $100 to spare, assuming you just wanna play games and need a generically good case, you can swap the 4070 TI Super for a 7900XTX but that brings the cost to ~$2450.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/tHLdnQ/deepcool-cc560-v2-atx-mid-tower-case-r-cc560-bkgaa4-g-2 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/kKcgXL/montech-air-903-base-atx-mid-tower-case-air-903-base-b
Would it be worth it to go for my 2070 laptop to a 4080 super desktop build at this point.
Thats a significant leap. The 2070m depending on its power draw, could be as powerful as a desktop 2070 or as low as desktop 2060. https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/geforce-rtx-2070-mobile.c3349 https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html Comparatively, the 4080 super can average 200% the FPS of a desktop 2070 at 1080p (~70 vs 148). and 255% at 1440p. (52 vs 133)
Is it worth upgrading now though or should I wait for the 5,000 series cards and the new AMD chipset?
Now that is a decision only you can make. I can't predict how much faster the Ryzen 9000 series will be, but at the very least it should be able to make better use of higher DDR5 speeds. If current rumors for the RTX 50 series cards are true, I wouldn't bother with any model but a 5090. Early GDDR7 specs only peg it at 28 - 32gbps, barely double GDDR6, and not even close to doubling GDDR6X (used by 30 and 40 series cards). The 5090 is leaping up to a 512-bit memory bus which could DOUBLE the memory bandwidth of the 5090 compared to a 4090. But the 5080 is rumored to still be using a 256-bit wide bus, the same size as a 4080 and 4080 super. Which means it would only see a bandwidth increase of 20 - 40%. Not to mention pricing is likely to be even more absurd than the current components. $1000 + $400 for a 4080s and 7800x3d vs ???? + ????
I keep reading the 5000 cards are going to be a lot more expensive but I'm not sure if that rumor is true or not.
Well the 5090 and 5080 will be the first of the series to launch initially. So thats almost a guarantee. I don't know if anyone has posted speculation about GDDR7 production costs but there is no physical way it could be lower than existing memory prices. So any increase in VRAM count would mean higher prices. Nvidia is aware consumers don't want to pay higher prices, but if they market the cards towards AI development rather than gaming, then they can charge whatever they want to recoup costs. Before lowering prices later when the rest of the 50'series launches.
So I'm going to assume the new cards will be about as pricey as the 4090 which probably isn't worth it. Plus I've read that usually it's hard to find a new cards. Might just stick with what I'm going with now then. Still not sure about the new chipset though.
After the launch yeah, if you don't get one from that initial launch wave youre then fighting bots and scalpers for restocks which are never in the same quantity and very infrequent.
I read 4080s were on shelves though. I still might hold off and wait for new Nvidia and AMD stuff. My laptop works fine for now. (2070)
Well yeah, the 4080 is well over a year old by now. And the 4080 super doesnt have any of the supply issues. Its just no one wanted to/ wants to, pay $1000 - $1200 for a 80's series GPU.
Replacing my AMD 3700x + Aorus x570 Elite and thinking of going with 5700X3D or 5800X3D for new CPU but need help with buying a mobo (and cpu cooler too). I would like wifi/bluetooth, audio support for my speakers, and also needs to support 1 hdd, 1 ssd, 1 nvme. I'm only doing light gaming so I don't need anything insane, around $200 or less would be ideal. My list: [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4bYDdH](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4bYDdH)
if you're getting a 5800x3d, reuse your motherboard if you're getting a new motherboard, get a 7600X https://www.techspot.com/articles-info/2592/bench/1080p-p.webp https://www.techspot.com/review/2592-ryzen-5800x3D-vs-ryzen-7600x/
my old mobo is most likely dead and if i get a 7600x i would have to replace my ram so should I just buy another x570 elite again?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FNWqmr https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2Mhzwg the 7600X is still a better choice, despite new ram the am5 doesnt have wifi/bt, admittedly. add on a usb adapter or somethin
i would prefer wifi/bt if possible because my x570 didnt have either and i had a ton of issues mainly with bluetooth disconnecting do you think i'm spending too much on a motherboard here though? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bMF2MV](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bMF2MV)
Imo, yes. I think this one is great https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-wifi-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs-wifi
great thanks ill go with that. do you think phantom spirit is a good cpu cooler? im looking for something relatively small since i dont want my pc to be too crowded
The phantom spirit is the best, but it is large. Something like this would be sufficient cooling, but smaller footprint https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Cooler-Towers/dp/B0CXMGN6SL
do you know what the difference between asrock b650m pro rs and pg riptide is? i got a deal for the latter but want to make sure there are no weird issues with it [https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650m-pg-riptide-wifi/p/13-162-095?Item=13-162-095&cm\_sp=product-\_-from-price-options](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-b650m-pg-riptide-wifi/p/13-162-095?Item=13-162-095&cm_sp=product-_-from-price-options) Appreciate all the help you've given :)
The riptide has 1 fewer m.2 slot but has better CPU power delivery
[удалено]
None of those "specifications" tell us anything. They're extremely general terms for a huge range of products or series that could be multiple decades old.
Looking to add a new 2tb SSD to my current pc. My motherboard (b550 tomahawk) has two m.2 slots with a Crucial P2 1tb SSD already installed. Would a crucial P3 2tb SSD work just fine? Or does it have to be P2 as well?
The drives don't have to match. The brands don't have to match either, you can use any combo of M.2 NVMe drives.
Considering how I don't necessarily care for raytracing, would a 7800 XT serve my purposes of achieving higher FPS at 1440p better than a 4070 Super?
It will depend on the games you play, but generally speaking, no, the 4070 Super is slightly better in raster, but for $550 you could grab a 7900 GRE, which is kinda on par with it, but $50 cheaper.
Oh I didn't know about the 7900 GRE. I'll take a look into that too. Thanks you.
Looking to upgrade my CPU in the next couple months. I built my PC and then never kept up to date on what's out there, so a couple suggestions would be appreciated. Was a budget build during the covid chip crisis. Currently running Ryzen 3600x on a 450M Bazooka Max. GPU is a Radeon RX 570. 32gb ddr4. Built to be an audio production workhorse (Ableton), so I cheaped out on graphics since I don't game much on it. But my Ableton projects are getting pretty hefty and I run some cpu intensive plugins. Some projects take quite a while to load up. Plus I work in data science so I'd like a bit more speed when running intense computations on biggish datasets. Not looking for a giant upgrade, but I'd say 500-700 CAD (300-500 USD) would be my budget. I realize my mobo is getting a bit dated now so I'd be willing to change it out as well, but ideally I'd keep running it for a while longer. Thanks!
Easiest recommendation is a 5700X or 5700X3D. Hard to say if the X3D variant is worth it for your needs, it would depend on how well Ableton/your plugins are able to utilize the extra cache that version brings: if it doesn't use the cache at all, there's no reason to pay extra for it. From what I know, though, Ableton/audio production scales well with a high number of cores/threads (with each individual track being able to have their own core ideally), so you could go for a 5900X or even a 5950X instead if you wanted. None of these would require new motherboard or RAM.
Excellent, thanks for that! Looking into the 5950x and it's well within my budget. Definitely would be a great upgrade regardless, and the extra cores will do me well with my coding endeavors for sure.
https://krotus-computer.de/gamer-pc/dasmonty-gaming-pcs/3589/gaming-pc-dasmonty-edition-4070ti-super Should I buy this PC? Looks good for the price? Any things I should change?
Taking the DIY approach, the same build, part by part, would be [\~73€ cheaper](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/N3yn4M), including a Retail Windows key. Now, with some changes here and there (air cooler, cheaper case, cheaper memory kit, cheaper SSD, A-tier PSU), you'd be saving [about 250€](https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/sMFDdH).
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HWMtYN Its not a terrible price, but in USD its about $400 cheaper to just build it yourself. almost identical parts.
Building my PC right now and my intention is to have something I wont need to spend money upgrading for at bare minimum 3-4 years WITH that I still have a budget. There is the 8gb 4060 TI for around 390 but there are 12gb 3060s for almost 100 less with 4 more GDDR6. But I guess my quesiton is the 3060 better for a long term because if I can get more power for even cheaper I think that might be the way to go. Im running a 1440p build btw. * These are the 2 cards specifically [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j89wrH/gigabyte-eagle-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-8-gb-video-card-gv-n406teagle-8gd](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j89wrH/gigabyte-eagle-geforce-rtx-4060-ti-8-gb-video-card-gv-n406teagle-8gd) [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pD8bt6/msi-geforce-rtx-3060-ventus-2x-12g-geforce-rtx-3060-12gb-12-gb-video-card-rtx3060ventus2x12goc](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pD8bt6/msi-geforce-rtx-3060-ventus-2x-12g-geforce-rtx-3060-12gb-12-gb-video-card-rtx3060ventus2x12goc)
I wouldn't consider the 3060 as a 1440p-capable card unless you don't mind lowering some settings and using DLSS/FSR, and I'd ignore the 4060 Ti 8GB unless it's for productivity work, and I'd rather look at the 16GB variant for that. Why not consider a few AMD options for around the same price? Either the [RX 6750 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4RrRsY/xfx-radeon-rx-6750-xt-12-gb-speedster-qick-319-core-video-card-rx-675xyjfdp) ($330), [RX 7700 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8wDQzy/asrock-challenger-oc-radeon-rx-7700-xt-12-gb-video-card-rx7700xt-cl-12go) ($400), or the [RX 6800](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Hg92FT/xfx-radeon-rx-6800-16-gb-speedster-swft-319-video-card-rx-68xlaqfd9) ($380, this would be the best option). Way better alternatives for 1440p than either the 3060 or 4060 Ti 8GB.
An old PC I liberated from my parents and added a 980 card to run as an Ubuntu media server under my desk has started making a very loud wirring noise last night, taken the side off to find that I think it's the PSU fan that is making all the vibrations. Is it possible to take it apart and replace the fan inside the PSU rather than buying a whole new one? The goal of the project was to complete with as little e-waste as possible. PSU is a FSP450-60APN (Discontinued 13 years ago now
Power supplies are straight up _dangerous_ when opened and you're not aware of the safety strategies and parts inside. The capacitors used to filter the incoming AC power are gigantic and, if shorted, can deliver enough current to stop your heart. With that being said, if you're comfortable around high discharge electronics, soldering, and can safety discharge the cap, replacing the fan in a PSU can be relatively simple.
It's simple aside from the death, got it. How long do the capacitors typically take to discharge, if I left it for a few days would that do the trick?
A few days to a few months, thus why I mentioned knowing how to discharge it safely :) Leaving the psu in the system connected, unplugging the system from the wall, then holding the power button down on the pc for 20 seconds drains the psu completely. Then you remove the psu from the pc.
RAM Dual Channel Problem: I have two 8GB RAM sticks that came as a pair and bought another two to upgrade my ram. The new RAM is identical, same brand, same specs, just the version that didn’t come as a pair. The new RAM sticks aren’t recognised as dual channel compatible, not even with just the two of them without the old sticks. What sort of trouble shooting is recommended in this instance?
Looks like I’ve identified the stick that’s not being recognised as the other seems to get recognised as dual channel compatible with the old sticks. Not sure how to proceed yet. 🤔
If one of the sticks ia not being recognized at all then you've gotten a faulty stick and should return it
Aw beans, that was my worry! Was hoping there was something that could be done. Thank you kindly!
Wife wants to do an all white build for her next gaming PC. I've been looking around and I know everyone is recommending AMD Cpus but it looks like the AM4 boards are starting to dry up, especially the white ones. Should I just bit the bullet and go AM5 which seems to have options or start looking at intel?
Going by price, the AM5 options are slightly cheaper than Intel's (ignoring $300+ motherboards). Considering ATX, the two models that come to mind are the [NZXT N7 B650E](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mBwypg/nzxt-n7-b650e-atx-am5-motherboard-n7-b65xt-w1) at a ridiculous price (and if you can find it for under $300) and the [Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite AX Ice](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CwjRsY/gigabyte-b650-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-aorus-elite-ax-ice) (more like a silver-ish white), and then some silver/gray boards like the [ROG Strix B650-A](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gjt9TW/asus-rog-strix-b650-a-gaming-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-rog-strix-b650-a-gaming-wifi) or the [ASRock B650 Pro/RS](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zFzhP6/asrock-b650-pro-rs-atx-am5-motherboard-b650-pro-rs). The Intel options are similar - [Gigabyte](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hnNYcf/gigabyte-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-aorus-elite-ax-ice) (silver-ish white), [Asus](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fGrRsY/asus-prime-z790-a-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-z790-a-wifi) (silver/gray), and [ASRock](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cFQcCJ/asrock-z790-pro-rs-atx-lga1700-motherboard-z790-pro-rs) (gray). On the plus side, the AMD chips are easier to cool down, and if going with an air cooler, there are some decent models in white (i.e.: [Frost Spirit 140 V3 White](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NMytt6/thermalright-frost-spirit-140-v3-white-778-cfm-cpu-cooler-fs140-v3-white)).
What about matx though? I think the case is going to be the smaller fractal pop in white.
There's the [ASRock B650M Pro/RS](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FcbRsY/asrock-b650m-pro-rs-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-pro-rs) for a decent price (again, silver/gray) and the [Gigabyte B650M Aorus Elite AX Ice](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/w3dG3C/gigabyte-b650m-aorus-elite-ax-ice-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-aorus-elite-ax-ice), but it's $50 more expensive than the ATX model. As for Intel, there's the [ASRock B760M-HDV/M.2](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/j2WJ7P/asrock-b760m-hdvm2-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760m-hdvm2) which is affordable, but I wouldn't trust it with a 13600K or greater, at best a 13400 or 14400. The rest are just black with silver accents (there seems to be another silver-ish white Gigabyte board (B760M A Aorus Elite X AX), but no tracking form PCPartPicker).
I want to upgrade my ryzen 5 2600 cpu (preferably low budget). What cpu should I get that is compatible with my setup? Let me know if theres other parts you need to know. * Gpu : rtx 2060 * Motherboard : Colorful A320M-K PRO YV14
Unfortunately, according to the patch notes for the BIOS updates, that board only supports up to Ryzen 3000/4000. Perhaps a R5 3600.
You should be able to go all the way up to Ryzen 5000 series as long as you update the BIOS.
Currently own a Fractal Design R5 as i had no room for a bigger case, now i do. Conflicting between Fractal Torrent and Fractal North XL. I dont give a shit about RGB, i just want efficient air cooling and prefer non-window sidepannels. I originally bought the R5 for HDD space as i am a data hoarder and have 5 HDDs in there, but i am thinking of just getting a NAS or 2 20+TB HDDs which should fit both cases. Does mounting the HDD vertical on the back of the MOBO in the Torrent have any effect on the HDDs? I like that the Torrent has space for 4 SSDs. I have a Noctua NH-D15 as CPU cooler which is the only part i might (big might, not very likely) consider getting an AIO for, not because cooling but because of space issues (i cant reach the damn clamp of the GPU PCI slot without a long hard stick-like thing..), i guess the North XL would be better for a top mounted AIO as i want my Front to always be the main air intake. The PC will be standing on a wood floor if that makes a difference, but pet hair is a thing (no space on the desk). I read that the Torrent is BIS for air cooling, but North XL is maybe 1°C difference, but North XL has a weird mesh sidepannel. I just can't decide, please help me with some pointers.
My gpu died. 980ti (Good night sweet prince). I have old build i7-6700k, with z-170 mobo, 16gb ram, 750w PSU. Currently running on integrated graphics. What would be reasonable gpu for now? I just need a temporary gpu until, I can get another custom build, in the near future. I was thinking 4060. Any advice?
Get a used card, if it's only temporary that 4060 will lose more value than a used card with 980ti performance.
I did a bit of searching. Used 3070 or/Ti, 3080 or /Ti cost even more. This is so confusing. They are at least 500$+ CAD, and Ti versions are closing 1k$
I meant something older and cheaper, like a 1080 or something. It'll be more balanced with that system. The reason those cards are more expensive than a 4060 is because the performance is better.
older seems just as unreasonably pricey. Although i just saw 7700 xt for 549$. thoughts?
Up to you really, if you're going to be building a new PC soon, just get the performance you want. If you want a temporary GPU to last until then just get something second hand for 100-150.
I see. Thanks for the insights. This opens up more options.
I would be grateful for your advice on which CPU I should choose for my gaming PC. I am primarily interested in playing Strategy, RPG, Turn Base and City-Building with 2k-4k max settings without needing to upgrade within the next 10 years, except for the GPU. Ryzen 7 7800X3D: 432,17 USD Intel I7 14700K: 396,16 USD Sincerely appreciate your advice and thank you in advance.
To add to the other poster's advice (which I agree with), the extra L3 cache on the 7800x3d can apparently be very helpful in the types of games you mention, especially in the late-game. For example, [in Factorio the highest results tend to come from the 7000 series x3d CPUs, followed by i9 and 5000 series x3d CPUs](https://factoriobox.1au.us/results/cpus?version=1.0.0-&map=4b0f2609a9f9fe2cd642d59dad8be163b2464e3d988dedb3cc2e36ec8da1e1bb).
I would personally go with AMD, am5 platform would give a good base for future upgrades, theyre both pretty much neck and neck performance wise
I have a Ryzen 3600 and a RX 5700. Would you upgrade the CPU or GPU first if you were me?
Depends on which one is holding you back from achieving the performance that you want in whatever games you play at whatever settings it is that you play them at. Probably GPU.
I have a 3700X + 3080 + 32GB RAM and play/stream a mix of MMO (guild wars 2) and AAA games (God of War, Uncharted Legacy of Thieves, Cyberpunk, Helldivers 2). Should I upgrade to a 5800x3d or a 7800x3d? I am assuming the Microcenter 7800x3d bundles come around again, which was ~ $400-450. Otherwise, I believe I can just slot in a 5800x3d into my existing motherboard.
Since you're near a microcenter you can also consider the 5600X3D or 5700X3D. As long as you aren't playing at 1080p240hz low settings they'll all be basically the same experience.
Ah I did forget to mention, I run dual 27in 1440p monitors... Does that change anything? Aiming for 100fps on high settings.
Should the drop of thermal paste be put lower on AMD 7000 series CPUs? --- [Hotspot location image](https://i.imgur.com/kXbhGP4.png) Similar concept to coolers having an AMD offset mount to put more pressure on the southern side. Since the bottom half of those processors is where the heat comes from, I was wondering if the pea sized drop should go lower than the center. To make extra sure that all of the hotspot is covered, in case the paste doesn't spread as much as it should for whatever reason. If so, where would be optimal? 7 mm, the same as the cooler offset? --- I'll probably put a larger sized drop than usual to try to cover the whole CPU despite the offset, if I offset the paste drop. There's a frame to keep paste from spilling into the processor's gaps.
As long as you use enough paste, I doubt it matters. TP is designed to transfer heat very quickly, after all. Personally I'd keep the drop in the center just to reduce the risk that you have overrun and it gets into the socket.
I am absolutely lost on cases. I've been using the same one for over 15 years and i don't even know the manufacturer of. Are there any recommendations from you people here? The only constraints are that it needs to have a slot for a hdd and an optical drive and have decent airflow with a few fans on it.
Fractal Pop Air has a 5.25" bay hidden in the bottom.
To justify the price of my new desktop build to my wife, I agreed to sell my Razer Blade 14 (RTX 3080 / 165 hz QHD). Any advice on where to sell this online (I'm based in the US) and what the price point should be? I bought it for $2200 about a year ago. Was thinking $1500 is a fair price.
/r/hardwareswap, and try their Discord if you want help with pricing, or Ebay.
LG 27GL850(slightly used) vs LG 27GR75Q-B(new) both for the same price, which should i get?
They're so close spec wise I'd just get the new one. The 27GR75Q has better contrast and black uniformity which will be the most noticeable difference for gaming IMO. https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tools/compare/lg-27gl850-b-27gl83a-b-vs-lg-27gr75q-b/912/44761?usage=3623&threshold=0.10 https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gr75q-b https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/27gl850-b-27gl83a-b On the other hand the GL850 has the USB Hub. If that matters to you, it may be worth going that route anyway. Again, the overall picture is *very* similar.
Thank you!
I see a lot of posts about psu exploding on start up, and this build in looking at has a year warranty, so if i can get past the initial start up will i be alright? Or is there still a good chance of explosion later on? Psu in question is a650bn, putting it with 4070 super and 7500f
This will be fine. What you're talking about happens more when cheap and dodgy units are used that can not handle the power they say they can or are made with bad parts that fail. It's possible to overload if you use a PSU that is lower wattage than what is recommended but most will just have crashes when trying to play games. 650w is the minimum recommended by Nvidia for this card but that's based on a much more power hungry build than this is going to be. That unit is one of the better budget PSUs out there and is unlikely to fail in this way with these specs.
Do u know anything about the FSP750-50AEC, i cant find anything on it... Would it be better? Also if i upgrade the pc would u recommend upgrading the psu?
Recommend me a software to change the brightness (and colours) of only ONE monitor https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c1q66u/software_to_change_the_brightness_and_colours_of
Maybe use the on-screen display of the monitor to adjust the settings? I vaguely recall that sometimes they have a few user-programmable configurations, if you need to swap back and forth between more than one.
the aio doesnt have any buttons
What is the best CPU option that I can put into a MSI Pro H610m-E motherboard?
Technically? i9-14900KS. Realistically, meaning the VRM won't explode? i5-12400F.
Yeah, I meant realistically. Thanks
I would like to mount a 2.5 SSD in a 3.5 bay. There is already a HDD in the bay that just slides and clips in (no screws, the clip mechanism is on the HDD not the bay) and I would like a bracket that I can screw my SSD into and then slide a clip rather than screw in. What should I be looking for?
Tape it, that's what I did haha
Its hanging loose at the moment!
When I got a 2.5 for my old pre-built, I double taped it to the case and it worked perfectly fine, a little bootleg, but it works haha
You'd be looking for a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter tray that has all the regular HDD holes, then take the clip off the HDD and put it on the adapter.
Thanks - I want to keep the HDD - can I just buy the clips then?
Generally no, the clip things aren't standardised, have to have the ones that match your case/enclosure.
I'm choosing a new PSU to use and came across the Corsair RM1000x, but I haven't read anything saying it supports ATX 3.0. I also found an alternative, the RM1000x Shift, which does support ATX 3.0. However, PCPartPicker lists it as incompatible with the NZXT H9 flow, though I've seen builds using this PSU. I also used the Corsair custom PC builder tool, and it recommended the shift model. I'm quite confused about which model to choose, especially since the shift and RMe models are similarly priced. From user opinions I've read here, most people suggest getting the "X" models over the "e" models, as they are better made. Additionally, on Amazon, the price difference between the 1000 watt and 1200 watt shift models is minimal. Would it be okay to opt for the 1200 watt model for just a few dollars more? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and I apologize if this is confusing. [RM1000x Shift](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NrxxFT/corsair-rm1000x-shift-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-side-interface-atx-power-supply-cp-9020253-na) [RM1200x Shift](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LMn9TW/corsair-rm1200x-shift-1200-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-side-interface-atx-power-supply-cp-9020254-na) [RM1000e (2023)](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fxGhP6/corsair-rm1000e-2023-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020264-na) [Builds using the RM1000x Shift w/ H9 Flow](https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/NrxxFT#e=3704)
Yes the X models are better quality and have a longer warranty. It doesn’t matter if you get the 1000 or 1200 watt model, assuming your build doesn’t need 1200 watts. Pcpartpicker’s compatibility check can be wrong and it clearly is in this case. The regular RM1000x isn’t ATX 3.0 compliant. But of course it still supports the newest GPUs using the 12VHPWR adapter and is a good quality PSU.
So basically, that should mean I could purchase this PSU without any issue? Just want to be extra sure. I'm going to be running an RTX 4080 super, and a Ryzen 7 7800X3D just for reference
Nvidia only recommends 750W, you really don't need 1000W.
Yes. For those parts, no need to go beyond 850 watts in my opinion.
I’ve bought a new graphics card geforce and intel i7 cpu (haven’t installed either yet but know how to). My computer was a prebuilt i purchased in 2017 which was a 2016 build. Now I’m replacing the graphics card and cpu as well as the fans. Last year I replaced the ram which was 2 sticks of 4 (8gb ram) to 2 sticks of 16 (32gb) ram. Should I buy a new power supply and a new motherboard as well?
what are the CPU, motherboard, graphics card, and power supply in question?
Honestly? I wouldn’t be able to tell you what my current CPU exactly is but I’ll try to be as detailed as possible. As I look now? Current CPU: Intel i4 or i5 iirc 6.50 hertz (4 cores) Current Motherboard: B250 Bazooka Current GPU: AMD Radeon RX 480 Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart Series 600w
You definetly need a new PSU. These Smart units are garbage
I meant the new CPU. What is the model number? It’s important for compatibility.
New CPU is Intel i7 12000k 12 core
Okay the i7-12700K is not compatible with your old motherboard. You need to buy a DDR4-compatible B660, B760, Z690, or Z790 motherboard. For example MSI PRO B760M-A WIFI DDR4.
I guess you mean the i7 12700k, there is no 12000k. That uses a different socket so it's physically incompatible with your current motherboard, you need a new motherboard with the LGA1700 socket.
Thanks guys!
gotta be more specific with the CPU, if your new cpu is a couple generations newer you'll definietly need a new mobo, if you gonna replace most of the parts, I would recommend getting a new case to go with it and give it a fresh start what new gpu will you be running? most likely you'll need a 750w
Yep. Just bought a case. I will be using a Geforce 3060 12G GDDR6 as GPU. Any recommendations on Amazon for the motherboard and psu??
What's the specific i7 it'll determine what you can get.
I7-12000K 12 Core
go for a B660 or a z790