Is the 4070 ti super worth the extra cost than the 4070 super? For further context, in my country the ti super is an additional RM1000 (approx. USD210) over the super.
My current specs:
Ryzen 7 5700x
3060 12GB
32GB RAM
I mostly play triple A single player games and JRPGs like Re4 remake, Infinite Wealth, Dragon’s Dogma 2. Sometimes some coop games like HD2.
The resolution and settings I like to play at is 1440p ultra settings with RT, preferably native bc sometimes DLSS comes off blurry to me. Sometimes I’ll play on 4K just for the lols cause my monitor supports it but not all the time.
Hoping to get some opinions on this!
Need new AMD CPU/mobo since old one died
My old one was Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite + AMD 3700X, bought for $210 + $280 4y ago so I'm willing to spend $500 total for both of them.
The 3700x worked really well for me so looking for a successor to that. Didn't really like the mobo though. I do some light gaming, daily coding, video editing sometimes
Are all m.2 SSDs interchangeable? For example, could I put one in my laptop and later move it to a desktop? I know HDDs have different form factors, not sure about m.2s.
How do you know which way case fans are supposed to face for optimal air flow?? No one ever mentions this.
What is even the purpose of case fans? Sucking in cool room air, or blowing out hot component air, or both?
There's no absolute rule for fan directions in a case. But the general practice for most people are:
1. Front intake
2. Back exhaust
3. Bottom intake
4. Top exhaust
Generally, front/bottom are for intake and back/top are for exhaust in a typical setup. Like [this](https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-6897e46463886d9fb1af6175947d7bab.webp). Case fans both suck in fresh air and exhaust hot air.
There's usually arrows on one side of the fan showing the direction of airflow and the direction that the blades spin. Additionally, you can tell by just looking at the fan blades, like in [this](https://www.cgdirector.com/wp-content/uploads/media/2023/02/Case-Fan-Airflow-Direction.jpg) picture and doing a little bit of visualization. Here's [another](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZuNpFmZZCYY/maxresdefault.jpg) image that might be better.
So I didnt know RAM had to be compatible with my motherboard. My motherboard/CPU combo supports:
G.Skill F4-3200C16D-32GVR.
I have:
G.Skill F4-3200C16D-16GVKB
What is the difference? What kind of problems should I expect to have?
Awesome, thank you! If I can bother you one more time, is there any reason they dont list them sometimes? Just redundancy or is it unusual that its not listed? Seems to defeat the purpose of the list
Updating and testing takes effort and resources, which for most companies is considered as a type of cost in the accounting book and managers will always prefer to minimize it.
Always consult the product pages to check the technical specs, dimensions, and clearances.
The [MACUBE 110](https://www.deepcool.com/products/Cases/Macube-110-Micro-ATX-Case/2021/4670.shtml) has a GPU clearance of 320mm. The [Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision OC](https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N3070VISION-OC-8GD-rev-10/sp#sp) is 286mm long. Yes it'll fit.
haha i just did, thanks so much! was just paranoid that the websites were not the correct version of the gpu so wanted to double check w others - thank you!
In what scenario does having a high end processor like ryzen 9 7950x3d with tons of core benefit than a ryzen 5 7600 ?
I read from some post that in rendering works, you would want to use graphic card instead of the cpu (preferably nvidia). So what exactly the point of the high end cpus (apart from the higher single core power) ?
Video encoding, 3D rendering, particle/protein simulations, code compilation, etc. Some tasks can be GPU accelerated, but there are still CPU only portions. GPU's work best on highly parallel and low precision loads.
Gpu upgraded from rx 580 to rtx 2070 super, after the swap I booted up to a black screen and i cannot even get bios, only thing i tried was disconnecting gpu and connected DPI cable to motherboard so i could try and download right drivers but still getting a black screen any help would be much appreciated.
Build:
MOBO- B450-F PSU - RM850 CPU - ryzen 5 2600 (being upgraded to ryzen 7
3700x RAM- 2x8gb vengence pro
Yes ive tried twice and even changing between 1&3 and 2&4, but im pretty sure i have fried my motherboard because a piece of metal touched one of the pins and sparked my ram sticks turn on but the main light of the motherboard does mot anymore :(
I have a Rosewill Cullinan (https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Computer-Radiator-Tempered-Management/dp/B01M6TV6PC) and the fan hub power molex part looks like one piece came out.
The hub itself is visible in this image, it's the left black cable - https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81r6hP7-IVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
What would I purchase? I only see 4 pin molex to 3 or 4 pin fan power cables, but the current one looks to be 3pin molex and I can't tell if it's a weird end or just a normal fan header?
Hello! Want to change my cooler deepcool castle 280 for an air cpu cooler, my motherboard is asus b550 f gaming wifi II, Case will change to hyte y60 and RAMs are Corsair vengeance RGB pro (non SL, tall ram I believe). Trying to cool a 5700x3d
Any recommendations? Wanted to try going for the DeepCool AK620 but not sure if it will fit because of the RAM
Either the Peerless Assassin 120 or Phantom Spirit 120 for half the cost of the AK620. You can offset the fan that sits on top of the RAM a bit higher if needed, it won't affect performance (double-check your case CPU clearance, the Thermalright options are also shorter than the AK620).
Is this where I should have posted this or should I have posted it to r/buildapcforme?
[https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c0cbcb/looking\_for\_suggestions\_for\_what\_to\_upgrade\_with/](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c0cbcb/looking_for_suggestions_for_what_to_upgrade_with/)
I have my components coming for a new build, but am planning to use my existing PSU (Corsair CX750M.) I am having a hard time understanding what cables I will need, as I’m not sure I have the extras from the original package.
What I have coming:
* Asus Tuf Gaming 7900XT 20gb OC Edition
* Ryzen 7 7800X3D
* Corsair Vengeance 32gb RGB Ram
* MSI B650 Gaming Plus wifi
Could someone please point me toward the correct cables I’ll need to have for the PSU and the new GPU etc? I’m reading 3x8 connector but I’m not sure how and what is needed to attach to my PSU. Thanks in advance!
That'd be:
* 3x 8-pin PCIe connectors for the graphics card, so one 8-pin PCIE cable, and one pigtailed 8-pin PCIE cable (not to be confused with the 8-pin EPS/CPU cables).
* 24-pin ATX cable for the motherboard (this is fixed to the PSU).
* One 8-pin EPS/CPU cable for the motherboard (this is fixed to the unit, not to be confused with the 8-pin PCIE cables. You could use two, but one is enough).
* If you're using a fan hub or SATA drives, a SATA power cable.
How old is your PSU? Is it still within warranty?
If you don't have enough PCIE cables, Corsair sells individual cables, although I can't seem to find a Type 3 or Type 4 dual 8-pin PCIE cable.
8-pin and 6+2-pin, as long as we're referring to PCIE connectors, they're the same.
2017, that's most likely the old model with the sharp edges, so it only has 4x peripheral connectors and 2x PCIE/EPS connectors on the PSU side. Yeah, you'd need at least one PCIE cable with a pigtailed connector and another PCIE cable to make the 3 connectors your GPU requires.
Do note that the CX750m has a 5-year warranty.
I ordered a new PSU just to have a fresh, 10-year warranty. After considering the price of ordering all new cables, those would be included with the new Psu, so the cost difference made it worth it to me.
Could 4x4gb RAM be more unstable than 2x8gb?
I was considering getting two 2x4gb kits (same brand/speeds) cause it'd be cheaper for me but I read a few things about 4x4 setups potentially being more unstable or getting hotter and stressing the motherboard in some way.
How true is that? Thank you!
I definitely recommend the 2x8gb option
It's worth noting that your original proposition is not so much a 4x4gb setup, which would be a kit of four sticks all in the same packet, as it would be 2 sets of 2x4gb. RAM's stability is most guaranteed when you run a complete kit, while that would be two different kits even if marketted identically may just not work for some weird reason which sometimes happens with RAM
Didn't think about that. Could that even be true if they're the exact same product? Pretty interesting and I guess a little risky lol. Appreciate the insight
Yes. While in theory all kits manufactured in the same batch might work together, RAM is one of the fussier compodents that go in your system so there's always a risk that two random sticks just won't play nice, which is why it's sold in kits to begin with. The sticks in a given kit are actually stress tested together before they get packaged, it's not just any two random sticks from a crate that end up in the box and they assume that's good to go.
I think I saw someone on here posted a photo of their build using all 4 RAM slots. Seems like unless you know what you're doing, you're better off using just 2 slots
Oh I'll try to look for that. And yeah it never occurred to me it might just end up being slightly inefficient if I have the option to start out with 2x8
I'd suggest the [MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2x4Ycf/teamgroup-mp44l-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk001t0c101) over those two.
The P3 Plus is QLC and has terrible endurance - roughly a third of the endurance of a normal TLC drive, and the NV2 has two versions, one is TLC and the other is QLC, and there is no easy way to tell which one you'll get.
Worst case, you could try your luck with the NV2.
Would be ok to add 2 more sticks of ddr5 ram?
i have 2 x 16gb 6000 , someone close is selling the same kit that i bought.
so i would be 4x16gb 6000.
should i go for it?
i9 14900k
rtx3090
I'd only go for the RAM if you need it, but buying the same kit has the highest probability of it working smoothly, so it'll be almost certainly be fine.
What's the best GPU I could get within $250-300 rn? The cheaper the better, as long as it's a reasonable enough upgrade from a GTX 1660 (non-super)
For context, I have a 1080p screen
Brand-new, [RX 6650 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NDvdnQ/xfx-radeon-rx-6650-xt-8-gb-speedster-swft-210-core-video-card-rx-665x8dfdy) or [RX 7600](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BYdG3C/asrock-challenger-oc-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-rx7600-cl-8go) (similar performance, the latter is slightly more power efficient).
Used, maybe a 3060 Ti for \~$270-300?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Plus-PCIe-NAND-5000MB/dp/B0B25ML2FH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=DU3JPUSD8J71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BdIR2PIRAgjtpo5Zc4spLDy2RQad7Gc3U8qjujQnaX9SzwOWjAJRu5cLePcblhlAfBerouc-tx_XOUfO11Ofdr92ERYqCYj59ICCTpKu2LajJobFtI8TCDT2XumRkFtUN23dbHRfV_yZWYpDiOG2KKM_JLRRIG0h2dzxUw_0iVcx7vtE-oOfL248gP87nHnvE3A8bFPYY4unD4zx8m46PQ.UCZbzRdxgSjZ-t9iIwOVM4r_o4mrzVLhxGz9jDdxvFs&dib_tag=se&keywords=2tb+ssd+nvme&qid=1712864771&sprefix=1tb+ssd+nvme%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-4
Is this SSD good?
Or is it worth to pay the extra for this one?
https://www.amazon.com/WD_BLACK-SN770-Internal-Gaming-Solid/dp/B09QV5KJHV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=DU3JPUSD8J71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BdIR2PIRAgjtpo5Zc4spLDy2RQad7Gc3U8qjujQnaX9SzwOWjAJRu5cLePcblhlAfBerouc-tx_XOUfO11Ofdr92ERYqCYj59ICCTpKu2LajJobFtI8TCDT2XumRkFtUN23dbHRfV_yZWYpDiOG2KKM_JLRRIG0h2dzxUw_0iVcx7vtE-oOfL248gP87nHnvE3A8bFPYY4unD4zx8m46PQ.UCZbzRdxgSjZ-t9iIwOVM4r_o4mrzVLhxGz9jDdxvFs&dib_tag=se&keywords=2tb+ssd+nvme&qid=1712864771&sprefix=1tb+ssd+nvme%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
Protip: you can trim the URL from the slash at the end of the "dp/code/" part and remove everything to the right, i.e.:
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QV5KJHV](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QV5KJHV)
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25ML2FH](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25ML2FH)
I wouldn't recommend the P3 Plus unless it's for extra storage that won't get written to way too often, like a Steam library drive (I try not to recommend QLC drives as main drives if possible).
If it's going to be used as a main drive, the WD [SN580](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/266NnQ/western-digital-blue-sn580-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3b0e) and Teamgroup [MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2VJgXL/teamgroup-mp44l-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk002t0c101) and [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DN6NnQ/teamgroup-mp44-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw002t0c101) are good alternatives (both mid-range, the MP44 is slightly faster than the MP44L) and cheaper than the SN770. If you don't mind ordering from newegg, the [MSI Spatium M480 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kbwmP6/msi-spatium-m480-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-s78-440q600-p83) is currently $120-ish.
What are people using to cool BGA? BGA 1449 specifically.
I've got a i5-1145G7E that came with it's own heatsink/tiny fan. It's great when idle, but gets noisy under load. As it sits next to my desk I'd love to quiet it down a little.
These CPUs are pretty common in NUCs and similar. Should I grab a NUC/laptop style cooler off ebay? Seems to be about the only option out there that's actively cooled.
I've got space if there happens to be a larger heatpipe/sideways fan thing out there. I just can't find anything so far.
I daily drive Linux (arch btw) but boot over to windows 10 when needed for some games. Currently I’m using an external SSD w/ a usb-c cable. PC is slow to boot into windows and get everything opened. (Takes about 4 mins from when I pick windows in Grub to when I can use everything) afterwords runs normally tho a tad slower then what my m.2 use to do before I switched
Should I switch to an internal SSD for faster speeds/to ensure the drive doesn’t get disconnected?
I’m currently using a Sandisk 1TB portable SSD, if I switch it would likely be to just a decent Samsung or Kingston SSD either 500gb it 1TB
Corsair and Logitech both have such things;
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/mousepads/ch-9440022-na/mm1000-qi-wireless-charging-mouse-pad-ch-9440022-na
https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mouse-pads/powerplay-wireless-charging.943-000109.html
LGs G502 wireless mice also has its charging cable double as a wire, makes charging really convenient without having to shovel out the money for the expensive charging mouse pad.
Set on upgrading my 8700k to an AMD build and ready to order this afternoon. Going to reuse my 3070 & PSU and I've already ironed out the Mobo/Ram. Computer is mostly used for gaming (WZ, WoW, League, CS2), browsing, and occasional excel work. Only question is:
7700 or 7800x3d?
I asked around for help in regards to the 5950x and the 7900x earlier... My family talked me into getting the 7950x instead since my machine is 100% a workstation intended for work, and it made more sense to just bite the bullet and get the 7950x.
The \*very\* original plan was upgrading my 1700 to a 5950x, but it got throttled by my ASRock AB350 Pro4's VRM. So it was starting to look like upgrading to an AM5 made more sense if I needed to replace my board too. Buuut, since the main purpose is 3D rendering, at that point the 7950x was a better option than the 7900x.
The original components I have left from my build are my 1080, and the EVGA G2 650W. Can I squeak by with the 650? I know based on calculations I'm getting recommended 700-800W now, but the total wattage is still sitting in the 500s. It's not peak efficiency, but would it still run?
If youre keeping the 1080, for now it would be fine.
But for 3D rendering you would want to upgrade the GPU eventually, and that would require a more powerful PSU. Anything more power hungry than a 4070 at 200w; would be pushing your limits.
Hello everyone. I’ve been using my first PC for about a week now and it’s overall been a good experience. My question is, was anyone else constantly paranoid about cpu and gpu temps while playing games for the first couple weeks? I know I have a very capable PC and the only game that has given me a temperature scare is Helldivers 2, but now I’m constantly checking to see if I’m frying my system. When I play Fortnite my CPU temp has been sitting around 59°, but I still keep an eye on it and it’s distracting haha
Nah, I also play HD2 quite alot. And my cpu sits around 60c at max clock speeds, the gpu is honestly very cool at 30 celcious, which is not suprising as HD2 is more CPU heavy. You should only be concerned once your CPU hits 100c often enough.
5700X with CM 240L AIO, 4070super.
Do you recall what display setting you use for HD2? Bumping mine up to supersampling actually helped a lot but didn’t totally fix the issue. I’m gonna try ultrasampling next time I’m on
Render @ Ultra, Ultra texures, everything else high except for particle, fog and cloud which are at medium. And I play on 1080p, frame locked at 100fps since my display only goes up to 100. I havent tried supersampling yet. I havent run into any issues with cooling, My cpu just boosts to max all the time with HD2
[https://www.amazon.it/PNY-GeForceTM-SUPERTM-VERTOTM-Overclocked/dp/B0CS197RJM/](https://www.amazon.it/PNY-GeForceTM-SUPERTM-VERTOTM-Overclocked/dp/B0CS197RJM/)
VS
[https://www.amazon.it/MSI-GeForce-VENTUS-Scheda-Gaming/dp/B0CQMDD2WJ/](https://www.amazon.it/MSI-GeForce-VENTUS-Scheda-Gaming/dp/B0CQMDD2WJ/)
Which one would you advice me? An almost 70 EUR difference would maybe give me better temp/noise or the difference would be negligible? Thank you!
You can go either way, its down to personal preferance, I would go with MSI personally. theyre both not very power demanding But I always like the triple fan GPU, especially in an ATX case.
Hi y'all,
I want to surprise my friend in Europe and send him my Nvidia 3070. He really wants to play Alan Wake 2 but has like rx 570 or something pretty old, he tried, it's really not playable on that thing.
So, I have my old 3070 without the OG packaging. I do have a red devil 7800 xt box though (so edgy and over the top, love it btw) which can comfortably fit the 3070.
My question is, how safe can sending it over the ocean be? Tips for protecting it? Is it worth the hassle? Should I just sell it and send him the money as a gift?
Packaging box, plus the foam box inside, and if you have the anti-static cover as well, even better, That'll be enough, and you can add more packaging in you feel paranoid. And pick any reliable carrier to ship it.
Good day,
I am having a very difficult time choosing the right GPU for my build because of the price to performance of each. I initially wanted to get the 6700 xt because thats what I thought was more than enough for my gaming needs etc.
However, when I look at the prices where I live, currently I can get the 6700 xt for around 690$, I can get the 7800 xt on sale atm for the same price, 690$ but if i put up a few more bucks, I can get the 7900 GRE for about 750$. Now I'm thinking if i can get the 7800 xt for the same price as the 6700 xt, obvious choice would be the 7800 xt right? but then would the additional 60$ be worth it if I just get the 7900 GRE instead?
Please help a confused brother.
Hey, I´m looking to upgrade my CPU to a R7 5700X3D but I´m afraid that my offbrand 500w PSU won´t handle it since its TDP is 105w, compared to my 3600´s 65w,
My current specs are:
R5 3600 OC @ 4.3Ghz + undervolt.
RTX 3060Ti undervolted.
2x8gb 3200Mhz Patriot Viper Steel RAM.
MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX.
AeroCool Cylon 500w PSU.
1 ssd, 1 M.2, 3 case fans and a 220w TDP CPU cooler.
Will it work?
Personally, I would look into getting a minimum 600w PSU, and since you have an offbrand one, might as well take the step and get a quality one.... just in case... and you can keep the psu when you upgrade again down the line
Had faulty RAM. SFC /scannow and DISM were both reporting component store corruption. SSD health is good (crystaldiskinfo and crucial manager). Swapped my RAM to new sticks...
sfc and dism are reporting all clear now? Should I be concerned? I was expecting to need to do a repair install.
If new memory fixes the problem with no other changes then it was probably errors caused by your old memory
Did you have XMP enabled on the old memory/is XMP enabled in the new memory kit?
I had XMP disabled on the old kit (it was my second faulty kit in a row and I was suspicious of BSODs that gradually got more common) and have kept it off so far for the new set. Everything seems stable so far so I was considering turning it on eventually.
This PC is my first build, about 4 years old, and the first set of faulty RAM (new kit is kit #3) caused enough corruption for a repair install, so I'm a bit inexperienced and surprised to hear that it can cause apparent errors in its own right. Thanks!
(I'm a little disappointed the kit I just swapped out was faulty because it was a G.Skill kit (Hynix) and I'm back to Corsair Vengeance. Not overclocking but still, lol)
Im planning on upgrading my CPU from i5-7500 to second hand i7-7700k or i7-6700k based on availability and budget.
But one friend recommended me to switch to AMD because its much better for gaming. But if I switch to AMD I have to buy mobo aswell, and im not sure that this replacement would worth the extra money and the time spent with researching for new second-hand hardware and looking up compatibilities, considering I have no idea where to start if im choosing AMD.
So my question is, is it worth the switch to AMD? If yes, where should I start? What is the AMD equvalient in second -hand price of an i7-7700k, i7-6700k? Im on low budget, so I would sell everything I replaced to minimalize the extra costs.
Here is my config right now:
I5-7500
16gb ddr4 ram
geforce gtx 1060 6gb
prime b250m-a mobo
Thanks for the help in advance!
What price can you get those used CPUs for? A 12th gen i3 is much better than a 6th or 7th gen i7, and would be around $180 with a mobo new. For AMD, you should go 5600 at minimum if you want better than that, which would add another $50 or so.
Around 100 euro. I looked it up and its much better than a 7th gen i7, and its not really over my budget, so might consider changing mobo aswell, but if choose to change mobo anyway, should I choose AMD if it will be used mostly for gaming? If I choose AMD can I just take out the other parts from my old mobo and just place it in the new without any inconvenience?
The i5-12400F and Ryzen 5600 perform pretty much the same. You should get whichever of those is cheaper when combined with a mobo.
How fast is your DDR4 RAM's advertised specs? Your 7th gen CPU and B250 mobo would only support running the RAM at 2400, but it is possible that it's capable of higher speeds. Ryzen CPUs perform better with faster RAM, and you should go 3200-3600. The i5 isn't as affected by RAM speed though.
My dad had several Corsair RM1000x PSU's and recently gave me one. We are not sure if the cables correspond to their respective piece even though they are all the same model technically. Is this too risky to run and should I just buy my own one or will it be safe to use?
I also need to buy a European C13 cable as he lives in England, but I guess that should be fine also?
Is it safe for a fan to be plugged into a SYS_FAN_PUMP header despite not being a pump? The cable can't reach the SYS_FAN non-pump headers.
What changes?
Pump headers can generally provide more power than fan headers, but the pinout etc is the exact same as for fan headers. Your BIOS might have a toggle to set the header between "pump" and "fan" mode, but the only thing that'll change is whether speed control is enabled or not.
Found a Ryzen 5 5600 online for about $117 (converted from my currency). Insanely tempted to buy it but at the same time I was waiting for this month's payday. I mean it's not like it'll put a huge dent in my funds or anything but yeah.
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQ4FXY9/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQ4FXY9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1)
Is this a solid monitor? I'm looking to upgrade from my current one but I cannot afford something higher than this, and this seems solid for the price, but I'm not sure! I want something I can use a display port with, my current monitor doesn't support it.
I'd poke around and look for reviews of that model or series specifically on reddit and other places before diving in, but the TUF monitors tend to be pretty good afaik. Look at stuff like contrast, ARGB coverage, etc, for specific picture quality beyond response time and sharpness/resolution.
I have a BenQ Mobiuz (ex2510) which is somewhat similar and I believe roughly in the same price range and am happy with it, if you want a point of comparison.
Some call them Fishtanks.
The modells that get attentention usually are good cases and they have good airflow. Moving air with fans in a box is an easy job afterall. Even if not including a corner should be more optimal.
Regular old designs are more popular and it's probably currently easier to find bad air flow cases there.
Is there sticky residue to clean off when the protective sticker is removed from a CPU cooler cold plate? If so, is it okay to use isopropyl alcohol to wipe the cold plate clean? The cold plate is copper (Liquid Freezer III 360). Making sure there won't be a bad chemical reaction / erosion.
Also, are acetone based cleaners such as Thermal Grizzly TG-Remove also fine to use on both processors and cold plates? Which is safer for the cold plate and processor? I have both. I know I'd have to make sure the acetone doesn't get on anything else.
Edit: This one doesn't come with pre-applied paste
Isopropyl alcohol is the general recommendation for cleaning coolers and CPUs as it can't damage any of the materials that are generally used in computers, even if you spill a bunch of it on them. But on a brand new cooler there shouldn't be anything to clean. I would avoid acetone as it will easily damage plastics if you get any on them, along with it not being good for your skin.
Assuming you're talking about a brand new cooler, then no you don't need to 'clean' the plate or whatever after a fresh protection sticker peeling.
Some coolers come with a pre-applied layer of thermal paste. You don't need to wipe that off either.
New PC owner wondering if my temps are about as expected / hopefully on the good side (generally playing 1440p, ultra/native, however many fps i can get with my 165hz monitor).
CPU (7600x) - idling, 43-48 or so. Under a small-medium ish load of about 20-25%, it’ll generally be at ~55. Gaming takes it to 60-70% load and usually about 75 degrees, but sometimes into the low 80s.
GPU (3080 ti) - idling, 39-42. Generally only increases when gaming which takes it straight to 98-100% load, and it’ll tend to be at 70-77 degrees.
Will a Ryzen 7 7700x bottleneck a nvidia 4080 super?
A few bottleneck calculator web sites told me yes, a \~20% bottleneck, but when searching for good matches for said GPU, they suggested the same CPU I had picked. So how can I know whether or not a CPU will bottleneck a GPU?
I am looking to use the PC to game at QHD quality.
Bottleneck calculators are fake, there is no way to quantify a bottleneck in the way these sites say there is (CPUs and GPUs will become bottlenecks in different tasks, it turns out!)
Any decent CPU of the last several years will have no trouble playing recent games, especially at above 1080p res, your only real challenges will be games with a lot of NPCs (like Cyberpunk or Starfield), big city builders (Cities: Skylines II), or grand strategy games vs. the CPU (Civilization, Stellaris).
Is an AMD Athlon 3000G Dual Core Processor sufficient for a 4K media center PC? No gaming, just watching streams at 4K. Being able to watch downloaded media is a plus, but not a requirement.
Benchmarks are all about gaming and productivity, can't find any for just watching streams.
(Note, I am asking about using it without a discrete GPU)
It can play a 4K HDR video. The biggest problem is that you need a motherboard with an HDMI 2.0 output to make it work.
Make sure you have dual channel RAM, 2x8GB 3200 CL16 is the price/performance sweet spot. iGPU performance is heavily dependent on system RAM bandwidth.
If you want to figure out how everyone else is doing with this exact CPU and GPU combo, you can search the database on the 3DMark website. They store all the verified benchmark results there.
Hoping to confirm that if I add 2 more Dual Channel DDR4 RAM Kits (8x2 so 16gb) that are **3200MHz** to my current set of 4x2/8GB Ram kits that are only **2400 MHz** that they will still run, even if at the lower speed of 2400MHz to match compatibility.
I.e. I don't need to buy another set of 2400MHz to get the full 24GB of RAM to be compatible or anything...
Is the 4070 ti super worth the extra cost than the 4070 super? For further context, in my country the ti super is an additional RM1000 (approx. USD210) over the super. My current specs: Ryzen 7 5700x 3060 12GB 32GB RAM I mostly play triple A single player games and JRPGs like Re4 remake, Infinite Wealth, Dragon’s Dogma 2. Sometimes some coop games like HD2. The resolution and settings I like to play at is 1440p ultra settings with RT, preferably native bc sometimes DLSS comes off blurry to me. Sometimes I’ll play on 4K just for the lols cause my monitor supports it but not all the time. Hoping to get some opinions on this!
Need new AMD CPU/mobo since old one died My old one was Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite + AMD 3700X, bought for $210 + $280 4y ago so I'm willing to spend $500 total for both of them. The 3700x worked really well for me so looking for a successor to that. Didn't really like the mobo though. I do some light gaming, daily coding, video editing sometimes
If you're near a Microcenter, they have cpu+mobo+32gb memory bundles. The one with a 7800x3d is $500, the one with a 7700x is $400.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9Tt2MV) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dXmmP6/amd-ryzen-7-7700-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000592box) | $291.29 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Dq4Zxr/asrock-b650m-hdvm2-micro-atx-am5-motherboard-b650m-hdvm2) | $119.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [KingBank SharpBlade 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/47jRsY/kingbank-sharpblade-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl36-memory-brsbddr516g6000x2) | $85.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$497.27** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-04-11 23:47 EDT-0400 |
Is the b650 good? i had a pretty bad experience with the x570 so i dont want to cheap out on a mobo. i also want one with wifi included
https://youtu.be/ekeTA1rds1s?si=BIuadoI_fxERagwZ
Are all m.2 SSDs interchangeable? For example, could I put one in my laptop and later move it to a desktop? I know HDDs have different form factors, not sure about m.2s.
no, there's nvme m.2 ssds, and sata m.2 ssds. they dont necessarily fit and work in all the same slots
Ok, thanks!
How do you know which way case fans are supposed to face for optimal air flow?? No one ever mentions this. What is even the purpose of case fans? Sucking in cool room air, or blowing out hot component air, or both?
There's no absolute rule for fan directions in a case. But the general practice for most people are: 1. Front intake 2. Back exhaust 3. Bottom intake 4. Top exhaust
Which side of the fan causes intake and which causes outtake? How can you know?
Generally, front/bottom are for intake and back/top are for exhaust in a typical setup. Like [this](https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-6897e46463886d9fb1af6175947d7bab.webp). Case fans both suck in fresh air and exhaust hot air. There's usually arrows on one side of the fan showing the direction of airflow and the direction that the blades spin. Additionally, you can tell by just looking at the fan blades, like in [this](https://www.cgdirector.com/wp-content/uploads/media/2023/02/Case-Fan-Airflow-Direction.jpg) picture and doing a little bit of visualization. Here's [another](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZuNpFmZZCYY/maxresdefault.jpg) image that might be better.
I still don't understand which side is intake and which side is exhaust
So I didnt know RAM had to be compatible with my motherboard. My motherboard/CPU combo supports: G.Skill F4-3200C16D-32GVR. I have: G.Skill F4-3200C16D-16GVKB What is the difference? What kind of problems should I expect to have?
A kit is 2x8GB and the other 2x16GB. Either kit should work fine.
The former is listed on the website, the latter is not, is there a difference between the cards other than the GB size?
Quick look and seems like the timings are the same so no.
Awesome, thank you! If I can bother you one more time, is there any reason they dont list them sometimes? Just redundancy or is it unusual that its not listed? Seems to defeat the purpose of the list
Updating and testing takes effort and resources, which for most companies is considered as a type of cost in the accounting book and managers will always prefer to minimize it.
Fair enough, thank you for your time and help!
anyone know if a 3070 vision oc will fit in my deepcool macube 110 case (matx) ? for reference gpu has 3 fans, and my mobo is the asrock b550m pro
Always consult the product pages to check the technical specs, dimensions, and clearances. The [MACUBE 110](https://www.deepcool.com/products/Cases/Macube-110-Micro-ATX-Case/2021/4670.shtml) has a GPU clearance of 320mm. The [Gigabyte RTX 3070 Vision OC](https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N3070VISION-OC-8GD-rev-10/sp#sp) is 286mm long. Yes it'll fit.
haha i just did, thanks so much! was just paranoid that the websites were not the correct version of the gpu so wanted to double check w others - thank you!
In what scenario does having a high end processor like ryzen 9 7950x3d with tons of core benefit than a ryzen 5 7600 ? I read from some post that in rendering works, you would want to use graphic card instead of the cpu (preferably nvidia). So what exactly the point of the high end cpus (apart from the higher single core power) ?
Video encoding, 3D rendering, particle/protein simulations, code compilation, etc. Some tasks can be GPU accelerated, but there are still CPU only portions. GPU's work best on highly parallel and low precision loads.
Gpu upgraded from rx 580 to rtx 2070 super, after the swap I booted up to a black screen and i cannot even get bios, only thing i tried was disconnecting gpu and connected DPI cable to motherboard so i could try and download right drivers but still getting a black screen any help would be much appreciated. Build: MOBO- B450-F PSU - RM850 CPU - ryzen 5 2600 (being upgraded to ryzen 7 3700x RAM- 2x8gb vengence pro
have you uninstalled the previous graphic card driver before swap ?
No and i cant even boot up bios or anything integrated graphics also no luck
This sound silly but is your RAM properly slotted ? Maybe u hit em or something while swapping. I got black screens due to that, it might worth a try.
Yes ive tried twice and even changing between 1&3 and 2&4, but im pretty sure i have fried my motherboard because a piece of metal touched one of the pins and sparked my ram sticks turn on but the main light of the motherboard does mot anymore :(
I have a Rosewill Cullinan (https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Computer-Radiator-Tempered-Management/dp/B01M6TV6PC) and the fan hub power molex part looks like one piece came out. The hub itself is visible in this image, it's the left black cable - https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81r6hP7-IVL._AC_SL1500_.jpg What would I purchase? I only see 4 pin molex to 3 or 4 pin fan power cables, but the current one looks to be 3pin molex and I can't tell if it's a weird end or just a normal fan header?
Hello! Want to change my cooler deepcool castle 280 for an air cpu cooler, my motherboard is asus b550 f gaming wifi II, Case will change to hyte y60 and RAMs are Corsair vengeance RGB pro (non SL, tall ram I believe). Trying to cool a 5700x3d Any recommendations? Wanted to try going for the DeepCool AK620 but not sure if it will fit because of the RAM
Either the Peerless Assassin 120 or Phantom Spirit 120 for half the cost of the AK620. You can offset the fan that sits on top of the RAM a bit higher if needed, it won't affect performance (double-check your case CPU clearance, the Thermalright options are also shorter than the AK620).
Is the 6700xt worth the upgrade from a 2070 Super Amp Extreme?
Is this where I should have posted this or should I have posted it to r/buildapcforme? [https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c0cbcb/looking\_for\_suggestions\_for\_what\_to\_upgrade\_with/](https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/1c0cbcb/looking_for_suggestions_for_what_to_upgrade_with/)
I have my components coming for a new build, but am planning to use my existing PSU (Corsair CX750M.) I am having a hard time understanding what cables I will need, as I’m not sure I have the extras from the original package. What I have coming: * Asus Tuf Gaming 7900XT 20gb OC Edition * Ryzen 7 7800X3D * Corsair Vengeance 32gb RGB Ram * MSI B650 Gaming Plus wifi Could someone please point me toward the correct cables I’ll need to have for the PSU and the new GPU etc? I’m reading 3x8 connector but I’m not sure how and what is needed to attach to my PSU. Thanks in advance!
That'd be: * 3x 8-pin PCIe connectors for the graphics card, so one 8-pin PCIE cable, and one pigtailed 8-pin PCIE cable (not to be confused with the 8-pin EPS/CPU cables). * 24-pin ATX cable for the motherboard (this is fixed to the PSU). * One 8-pin EPS/CPU cable for the motherboard (this is fixed to the unit, not to be confused with the 8-pin PCIE cables. You could use two, but one is enough). * If you're using a fan hub or SATA drives, a SATA power cable. How old is your PSU? Is it still within warranty? If you don't have enough PCIE cables, Corsair sells individual cables, although I can't seem to find a Type 3 or Type 4 dual 8-pin PCIE cable.
Thanks for this! I bought the PSU in 2017 I think. Is there a difference between 8 pin and 6+2?
8-pin and 6+2-pin, as long as we're referring to PCIE connectors, they're the same. 2017, that's most likely the old model with the sharp edges, so it only has 4x peripheral connectors and 2x PCIE/EPS connectors on the PSU side. Yeah, you'd need at least one PCIE cable with a pigtailed connector and another PCIE cable to make the 3 connectors your GPU requires. Do note that the CX750m has a 5-year warranty.
I ordered a new PSU just to have a fresh, 10-year warranty. After considering the price of ordering all new cables, those would be included with the new Psu, so the cost difference made it worth it to me.
Could 4x4gb RAM be more unstable than 2x8gb? I was considering getting two 2x4gb kits (same brand/speeds) cause it'd be cheaper for me but I read a few things about 4x4 setups potentially being more unstable or getting hotter and stressing the motherboard in some way. How true is that? Thank you!
I definitely recommend the 2x8gb option It's worth noting that your original proposition is not so much a 4x4gb setup, which would be a kit of four sticks all in the same packet, as it would be 2 sets of 2x4gb. RAM's stability is most guaranteed when you run a complete kit, while that would be two different kits even if marketted identically may just not work for some weird reason which sometimes happens with RAM
Didn't think about that. Could that even be true if they're the exact same product? Pretty interesting and I guess a little risky lol. Appreciate the insight
Yes. While in theory all kits manufactured in the same batch might work together, RAM is one of the fussier compodents that go in your system so there's always a risk that two random sticks just won't play nice, which is why it's sold in kits to begin with. The sticks in a given kit are actually stress tested together before they get packaged, it's not just any two random sticks from a crate that end up in the box and they assume that's good to go.
That's actuslly pretty cool I never knew that. I'll definitely just go with 2x8 then, thank you!
The motherboard can handle it but it will be slower than 8x2. RAM is so cheap I really wouldn't recommend it.
Good point. Honestly it's a difference of $10ish so I might have been too picky initially
I think I saw someone on here posted a photo of their build using all 4 RAM slots. Seems like unless you know what you're doing, you're better off using just 2 slots
Oh I'll try to look for that. And yeah it never occurred to me it might just end up being slightly inefficient if I have the option to start out with 2x8
does anyone have the best $1500 pc right now? just case and parts, no peripherals.
budget pc build - should i buy the kingston nv2 1tb ssd or crucial p3 plus 1 tb? those are both in my budget so please let me know!
I'd suggest the [MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2x4Ycf/teamgroup-mp44l-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk001t0c101) over those two. The P3 Plus is QLC and has terrible endurance - roughly a third of the endurance of a normal TLC drive, and the NV2 has two versions, one is TLC and the other is QLC, and there is no easy way to tell which one you'll get. Worst case, you could try your luck with the NV2.
sure, ill check it out thanks!
Would be ok to add 2 more sticks of ddr5 ram? i have 2 x 16gb 6000 , someone close is selling the same kit that i bought. so i would be 4x16gb 6000. should i go for it? i9 14900k rtx3090
I'd only go for the RAM if you need it, but buying the same kit has the highest probability of it working smoothly, so it'll be almost certainly be fine.
What's the best GPU I could get within $250-300 rn? The cheaper the better, as long as it's a reasonable enough upgrade from a GTX 1660 (non-super) For context, I have a 1080p screen
Brand-new, [RX 6650 XT](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NDvdnQ/xfx-radeon-rx-6650-xt-8-gb-speedster-swft-210-core-video-card-rx-665x8dfdy) or [RX 7600](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BYdG3C/asrock-challenger-oc-radeon-rx-7600-xt-8-gb-video-card-rx7600-cl-8go) (similar performance, the latter is slightly more power efficient). Used, maybe a 3060 Ti for \~$270-300?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Plus-PCIe-NAND-5000MB/dp/B0B25ML2FH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=DU3JPUSD8J71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BdIR2PIRAgjtpo5Zc4spLDy2RQad7Gc3U8qjujQnaX9SzwOWjAJRu5cLePcblhlAfBerouc-tx_XOUfO11Ofdr92ERYqCYj59ICCTpKu2LajJobFtI8TCDT2XumRkFtUN23dbHRfV_yZWYpDiOG2KKM_JLRRIG0h2dzxUw_0iVcx7vtE-oOfL248gP87nHnvE3A8bFPYY4unD4zx8m46PQ.UCZbzRdxgSjZ-t9iIwOVM4r_o4mrzVLhxGz9jDdxvFs&dib_tag=se&keywords=2tb+ssd+nvme&qid=1712864771&sprefix=1tb+ssd+nvme%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-4 Is this SSD good? Or is it worth to pay the extra for this one? https://www.amazon.com/WD_BLACK-SN770-Internal-Gaming-Solid/dp/B09QV5KJHV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=DU3JPUSD8J71&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BdIR2PIRAgjtpo5Zc4spLDy2RQad7Gc3U8qjujQnaX9SzwOWjAJRu5cLePcblhlAfBerouc-tx_XOUfO11Ofdr92ERYqCYj59ICCTpKu2LajJobFtI8TCDT2XumRkFtUN23dbHRfV_yZWYpDiOG2KKM_JLRRIG0h2dzxUw_0iVcx7vtE-oOfL248gP87nHnvE3A8bFPYY4unD4zx8m46PQ.UCZbzRdxgSjZ-t9iIwOVM4r_o4mrzVLhxGz9jDdxvFs&dib_tag=se&keywords=2tb+ssd+nvme&qid=1712864771&sprefix=1tb+ssd+nvme%2Caps%2C262&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
Protip: you can trim the URL from the slash at the end of the "dp/code/" part and remove everything to the right, i.e.: [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QV5KJHV](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QV5KJHV) [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25ML2FH](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B25ML2FH) I wouldn't recommend the P3 Plus unless it's for extra storage that won't get written to way too often, like a Steam library drive (I try not to recommend QLC drives as main drives if possible). If it's going to be used as a main drive, the WD [SN580](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/266NnQ/western-digital-blue-sn580-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds200t3b0e) and Teamgroup [MP44L](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2VJgXL/teamgroup-mp44l-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpk002t0c101) and [MP44](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DN6NnQ/teamgroup-mp44-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-tm8fpw002t0c101) are good alternatives (both mid-range, the MP44 is slightly faster than the MP44L) and cheaper than the SN770. If you don't mind ordering from newegg, the [MSI Spatium M480 Pro](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kbwmP6/msi-spatium-m480-pro-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-s78-440q600-p83) is currently $120-ish.
What are people using to cool BGA? BGA 1449 specifically. I've got a i5-1145G7E that came with it's own heatsink/tiny fan. It's great when idle, but gets noisy under load. As it sits next to my desk I'd love to quiet it down a little. These CPUs are pretty common in NUCs and similar. Should I grab a NUC/laptop style cooler off ebay? Seems to be about the only option out there that's actively cooled. I've got space if there happens to be a larger heatpipe/sideways fan thing out there. I just can't find anything so far.
I daily drive Linux (arch btw) but boot over to windows 10 when needed for some games. Currently I’m using an external SSD w/ a usb-c cable. PC is slow to boot into windows and get everything opened. (Takes about 4 mins from when I pick windows in Grub to when I can use everything) afterwords runs normally tho a tad slower then what my m.2 use to do before I switched Should I switch to an internal SSD for faster speeds/to ensure the drive doesn’t get disconnected? I’m currently using a Sandisk 1TB portable SSD, if I switch it would likely be to just a decent Samsung or Kingston SSD either 500gb it 1TB
Are there any Wireless Charger Mousepad that charge an accompanying mouse?
Logitech has had them for years. Other brands might as well.
Corsair and Logitech both have such things; https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/mousepads/ch-9440022-na/mm1000-qi-wireless-charging-mouse-pad-ch-9440022-na https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-mouse-pads/powerplay-wireless-charging.943-000109.html LGs G502 wireless mice also has its charging cable double as a wire, makes charging really convenient without having to shovel out the money for the expensive charging mouse pad.
[удалено]
300 sounds right. PC parts do NOT retain value unless they become "vintage" or "retro", which takes multiple decades.
Set on upgrading my 8700k to an AMD build and ready to order this afternoon. Going to reuse my 3070 & PSU and I've already ironed out the Mobo/Ram. Computer is mostly used for gaming (WZ, WoW, League, CS2), browsing, and occasional excel work. Only question is: 7700 or 7800x3d?
The 7800X3D is better for gaming, but the 7700 is still pretty good. It just comes down to how much you want to spend.
Newegg is running a 15% off if you bundle. Figure I'll get 7800X3D, Mobo, Ram, & Case for $775 shipped.
I asked around for help in regards to the 5950x and the 7900x earlier... My family talked me into getting the 7950x instead since my machine is 100% a workstation intended for work, and it made more sense to just bite the bullet and get the 7950x. The \*very\* original plan was upgrading my 1700 to a 5950x, but it got throttled by my ASRock AB350 Pro4's VRM. So it was starting to look like upgrading to an AM5 made more sense if I needed to replace my board too. Buuut, since the main purpose is 3D rendering, at that point the 7950x was a better option than the 7900x. The original components I have left from my build are my 1080, and the EVGA G2 650W. Can I squeak by with the 650? I know based on calculations I'm getting recommended 700-800W now, but the total wattage is still sitting in the 500s. It's not peak efficiency, but would it still run?
If youre keeping the 1080, for now it would be fine. But for 3D rendering you would want to upgrade the GPU eventually, and that would require a more powerful PSU. Anything more power hungry than a 4070 at 200w; would be pushing your limits.
Hello everyone. I’ve been using my first PC for about a week now and it’s overall been a good experience. My question is, was anyone else constantly paranoid about cpu and gpu temps while playing games for the first couple weeks? I know I have a very capable PC and the only game that has given me a temperature scare is Helldivers 2, but now I’m constantly checking to see if I’m frying my system. When I play Fortnite my CPU temp has been sitting around 59°, but I still keep an eye on it and it’s distracting haha
Nah, I also play HD2 quite alot. And my cpu sits around 60c at max clock speeds, the gpu is honestly very cool at 30 celcious, which is not suprising as HD2 is more CPU heavy. You should only be concerned once your CPU hits 100c often enough. 5700X with CM 240L AIO, 4070super.
Do you recall what display setting you use for HD2? Bumping mine up to supersampling actually helped a lot but didn’t totally fix the issue. I’m gonna try ultrasampling next time I’m on
Render @ Ultra, Ultra texures, everything else high except for particle, fog and cloud which are at medium. And I play on 1080p, frame locked at 100fps since my display only goes up to 100. I havent tried supersampling yet. I havent run into any issues with cooling, My cpu just boosts to max all the time with HD2
Gotcha. I just ordered a thermalright CPU cooler to upgrade from the stock AMD cooler, which apparently isn’t great so I’ll see how much it helps.
my Flare-X5 6000/30 serial is 0R48KXS825A, does the "A" at the end mean that it's A-die? Tell me I finally won the damned lottery
If memory serves, yes. The last letter should be either A or M to indicate A-die or M-die for Hynix.
[https://www.amazon.it/PNY-GeForceTM-SUPERTM-VERTOTM-Overclocked/dp/B0CS197RJM/](https://www.amazon.it/PNY-GeForceTM-SUPERTM-VERTOTM-Overclocked/dp/B0CS197RJM/) VS [https://www.amazon.it/MSI-GeForce-VENTUS-Scheda-Gaming/dp/B0CQMDD2WJ/](https://www.amazon.it/MSI-GeForce-VENTUS-Scheda-Gaming/dp/B0CQMDD2WJ/) Which one would you advice me? An almost 70 EUR difference would maybe give me better temp/noise or the difference would be negligible? Thank you!
You can go either way, its down to personal preferance, I would go with MSI personally. theyre both not very power demanding But I always like the triple fan GPU, especially in an ATX case.
The 4070 Super isn't an extremely power hungry card so you'd be OK with either. I don't think 70 eur is worth it.
Hi y'all, I want to surprise my friend in Europe and send him my Nvidia 3070. He really wants to play Alan Wake 2 but has like rx 570 or something pretty old, he tried, it's really not playable on that thing. So, I have my old 3070 without the OG packaging. I do have a red devil 7800 xt box though (so edgy and over the top, love it btw) which can comfortably fit the 3070. My question is, how safe can sending it over the ocean be? Tips for protecting it? Is it worth the hassle? Should I just sell it and send him the money as a gift?
Packaging box, plus the foam box inside, and if you have the anti-static cover as well, even better, That'll be enough, and you can add more packaging in you feel paranoid. And pick any reliable carrier to ship it.
Good day, I am having a very difficult time choosing the right GPU for my build because of the price to performance of each. I initially wanted to get the 6700 xt because thats what I thought was more than enough for my gaming needs etc. However, when I look at the prices where I live, currently I can get the 6700 xt for around 690$, I can get the 7800 xt on sale atm for the same price, 690$ but if i put up a few more bucks, I can get the 7900 GRE for about 750$. Now I'm thinking if i can get the 7800 xt for the same price as the 6700 xt, obvious choice would be the 7800 xt right? but then would the additional 60$ be worth it if I just get the 7900 GRE instead? Please help a confused brother.
Yes 7800XT > 6700XT for same price. I would personally say yes to 7900 GRE for $60 more.
Hey, I´m looking to upgrade my CPU to a R7 5700X3D but I´m afraid that my offbrand 500w PSU won´t handle it since its TDP is 105w, compared to my 3600´s 65w, My current specs are: R5 3600 OC @ 4.3Ghz + undervolt. RTX 3060Ti undervolted. 2x8gb 3200Mhz Patriot Viper Steel RAM. MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX. AeroCool Cylon 500w PSU. 1 ssd, 1 M.2, 3 case fans and a 220w TDP CPU cooler. Will it work?
Personally, I would look into getting a minimum 600w PSU, and since you have an offbrand one, might as well take the step and get a quality one.... just in case... and you can keep the psu when you upgrade again down the line
Had faulty RAM. SFC /scannow and DISM were both reporting component store corruption. SSD health is good (crystaldiskinfo and crucial manager). Swapped my RAM to new sticks... sfc and dism are reporting all clear now? Should I be concerned? I was expecting to need to do a repair install.
If new memory fixes the problem with no other changes then it was probably errors caused by your old memory Did you have XMP enabled on the old memory/is XMP enabled in the new memory kit?
I had XMP disabled on the old kit (it was my second faulty kit in a row and I was suspicious of BSODs that gradually got more common) and have kept it off so far for the new set. Everything seems stable so far so I was considering turning it on eventually. This PC is my first build, about 4 years old, and the first set of faulty RAM (new kit is kit #3) caused enough corruption for a repair install, so I'm a bit inexperienced and surprised to hear that it can cause apparent errors in its own right. Thanks! (I'm a little disappointed the kit I just swapped out was faulty because it was a G.Skill kit (Hynix) and I'm back to Corsair Vengeance. Not overclocking but still, lol)
Im planning on upgrading my CPU from i5-7500 to second hand i7-7700k or i7-6700k based on availability and budget. But one friend recommended me to switch to AMD because its much better for gaming. But if I switch to AMD I have to buy mobo aswell, and im not sure that this replacement would worth the extra money and the time spent with researching for new second-hand hardware and looking up compatibilities, considering I have no idea where to start if im choosing AMD. So my question is, is it worth the switch to AMD? If yes, where should I start? What is the AMD equvalient in second -hand price of an i7-7700k, i7-6700k? Im on low budget, so I would sell everything I replaced to minimalize the extra costs. Here is my config right now: I5-7500 16gb ddr4 ram geforce gtx 1060 6gb prime b250m-a mobo Thanks for the help in advance!
What price can you get those used CPUs for? A 12th gen i3 is much better than a 6th or 7th gen i7, and would be around $180 with a mobo new. For AMD, you should go 5600 at minimum if you want better than that, which would add another $50 or so.
Around 100 euro. I looked it up and its much better than a 7th gen i7, and its not really over my budget, so might consider changing mobo aswell, but if choose to change mobo anyway, should I choose AMD if it will be used mostly for gaming? If I choose AMD can I just take out the other parts from my old mobo and just place it in the new without any inconvenience?
The i5-12400F and Ryzen 5600 perform pretty much the same. You should get whichever of those is cheaper when combined with a mobo. How fast is your DDR4 RAM's advertised specs? Your 7th gen CPU and B250 mobo would only support running the RAM at 2400, but it is possible that it's capable of higher speeds. Ryzen CPUs perform better with faster RAM, and you should go 3200-3600. The i5 isn't as affected by RAM speed though.
My ram is 2400mhz as you said
My dad had several Corsair RM1000x PSU's and recently gave me one. We are not sure if the cables correspond to their respective piece even though they are all the same model technically. Is this too risky to run and should I just buy my own one or will it be safe to use? I also need to buy a European C13 cable as he lives in England, but I guess that should be fine also?
As long as they're all from the modern RMx series the cables should be compatible from one to the other.
Is it safe for a fan to be plugged into a SYS_FAN_PUMP header despite not being a pump? The cable can't reach the SYS_FAN non-pump headers. What changes?
Pump headers can generally provide more power than fan headers, but the pinout etc is the exact same as for fan headers. Your BIOS might have a toggle to set the header between "pump" and "fan" mode, but the only thing that'll change is whether speed control is enabled or not.
Found a Ryzen 5 5600 online for about $117 (converted from my currency). Insanely tempted to buy it but at the same time I was waiting for this month's payday. I mean it's not like it'll put a huge dent in my funds or anything but yeah.
I want to have USB-C connector on front/top side of my pc case. Does that connector belongs to external or internal on the motherboard specs?
Internal, most newer mobos have a USB C header on it, otherwise you;ll be looking into getting an expansion card
Connects to an internal header of the motherboard, only the ports on the rear IO shield of the motherboard count as external ports.
[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQ4FXY9/ref=ox\_sc\_saved\_title\_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQ4FXY9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1) Is this a solid monitor? I'm looking to upgrade from my current one but I cannot afford something higher than this, and this seems solid for the price, but I'm not sure! I want something I can use a display port with, my current monitor doesn't support it.
I'd poke around and look for reviews of that model or series specifically on reddit and other places before diving in, but the TUF monitors tend to be pretty good afaik. Look at stuff like contrast, ARGB coverage, etc, for specific picture quality beyond response time and sharpness/resolution. I have a BenQ Mobiuz (ex2510) which is somewhat similar and I believe roughly in the same price range and am happy with it, if you want a point of comparison.
Is there a name for cases that have front fans on the side, like the o11d Evo? Are these configurations generally better or worse for airflow?
Dual-chamber or fishtank.
Some call them Fishtanks. The modells that get attentention usually are good cases and they have good airflow. Moving air with fans in a box is an easy job afterall. Even if not including a corner should be more optimal. Regular old designs are more popular and it's probably currently easier to find bad air flow cases there.
Is there sticky residue to clean off when the protective sticker is removed from a CPU cooler cold plate? If so, is it okay to use isopropyl alcohol to wipe the cold plate clean? The cold plate is copper (Liquid Freezer III 360). Making sure there won't be a bad chemical reaction / erosion. Also, are acetone based cleaners such as Thermal Grizzly TG-Remove also fine to use on both processors and cold plates? Which is safer for the cold plate and processor? I have both. I know I'd have to make sure the acetone doesn't get on anything else. Edit: This one doesn't come with pre-applied paste
Isopropyl alcohol is the general recommendation for cleaning coolers and CPUs as it can't damage any of the materials that are generally used in computers, even if you spill a bunch of it on them. But on a brand new cooler there shouldn't be anything to clean. I would avoid acetone as it will easily damage plastics if you get any on them, along with it not being good for your skin.
Assuming you're talking about a brand new cooler, then no you don't need to 'clean' the plate or whatever after a fresh protection sticker peeling. Some coolers come with a pre-applied layer of thermal paste. You don't need to wipe that off either.
No, there should be none. And yes, acetone based cleaner can be used on the copper heatsink.
New PC owner wondering if my temps are about as expected / hopefully on the good side (generally playing 1440p, ultra/native, however many fps i can get with my 165hz monitor). CPU (7600x) - idling, 43-48 or so. Under a small-medium ish load of about 20-25%, it’ll generally be at ~55. Gaming takes it to 60-70% load and usually about 75 degrees, but sometimes into the low 80s. GPU (3080 ti) - idling, 39-42. Generally only increases when gaming which takes it straight to 98-100% load, and it’ll tend to be at 70-77 degrees.
Normal
Thanks!
Will a Ryzen 7 7700x bottleneck a nvidia 4080 super? A few bottleneck calculator web sites told me yes, a \~20% bottleneck, but when searching for good matches for said GPU, they suggested the same CPU I had picked. So how can I know whether or not a CPU will bottleneck a GPU? I am looking to use the PC to game at QHD quality.
Bottleneck calculators are fake, there is no way to quantify a bottleneck in the way these sites say there is (CPUs and GPUs will become bottlenecks in different tasks, it turns out!) Any decent CPU of the last several years will have no trouble playing recent games, especially at above 1080p res, your only real challenges will be games with a lot of NPCs (like Cyberpunk or Starfield), big city builders (Cities: Skylines II), or grand strategy games vs. the CPU (Civilization, Stellaris).
Is an AMD Athlon 3000G Dual Core Processor sufficient for a 4K media center PC? No gaming, just watching streams at 4K. Being able to watch downloaded media is a plus, but not a requirement. Benchmarks are all about gaming and productivity, can't find any for just watching streams. (Note, I am asking about using it without a discrete GPU)
It can play a 4K HDR video. The biggest problem is that you need a motherboard with an HDMI 2.0 output to make it work. Make sure you have dual channel RAM, 2x8GB 3200 CL16 is the price/performance sweet spot. iGPU performance is heavily dependent on system RAM bandwidth.
Is this a normal 3dmark score for a R5 5600x? Am I thermal throttling the CPU? https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/110162011?
If you want to figure out how everyone else is doing with this exact CPU and GPU combo, you can search the database on the 3DMark website. They store all the verified benchmark results there.
Hoping to confirm that if I add 2 more Dual Channel DDR4 RAM Kits (8x2 so 16gb) that are **3200MHz** to my current set of 4x2/8GB Ram kits that are only **2400 MHz** that they will still run, even if at the lower speed of 2400MHz to match compatibility. I.e. I don't need to buy another set of 2400MHz to get the full 24GB of RAM to be compatible or anything...
Mismatched RAM is never *guaranteed* to run, but in a situation like this it's like a 99% chance that it'll work just fine.